What steel are axes made from?

Stamps on Soviet axes

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MEANING, TYPES AND FEATURES OF STAMP ON SOVIET AXES

An ax is one of the few tools whose appearance has remained almost unchanged over the centuries, but the quality of modern axes most often leaves much to be desired. In the Union, axes were manufactured strictly in accordance with state standards and were of high quality. Factories put their own mark on each ax, which is now used by connoisseurs of quality tools and antiques to attribute them to a specific manufacturer. What types of marks are there on axes? Major Soviet tool manufacturers 1) Vach plant “Trud”. In 1830, a factory was founded in Vacha, which was engaged in the manufacture of steel products. The factory developed under the leadership of several generations of the Kondratovs, its founders. In 1920 it was nationalized and renamed the Trud plant. During the Great Patriotic War she worked for the needs of the army. The Trud plant still exists and continues to produce. 2) Izhstal plant. The ironworks was founded in 1760 by Shuvalov. Before the war - “Plant No. 180”. In 1939, it was divided into two parts: metallurgical plant No. 74 and machine-building plant No. 71. Now it is the small arms plant of IzhStal-TNP LLC. 3) State Bearing Plant 1. The project for the construction of a new plant was adopted in 1929, built by 1932. This is the first specialized plant for the production of ball bearings. During the war, the enterprise was partially evacuated, but production did not stop. Now called OJSC "Moscow Bearing". 4) Zlatoust Tool Plant. Founded in the mid-18th century by the industrialists Mosolovs, it was originally called the Zlatoust Iron Smelting and Ironworks. In 1811 it was merged with the Satkinsky, Kusinsky and Artinsky factories. In 1815, an arms factory was created at the plant, in 1917 it became one of the plant’s workshops. During the Civil War the plant was idle, and after the war it was nationalized. In 1925, the plant was divided into three separate enterprises: metallurgical, mechanical and abrasive plants. In 1939, it was renamed the Zlatoust Tool Plant - ZIK. After perestroika, it was renamed the Bulat Production Association, which went bankrupt in 2005.   Factory marks on axes Manufacturer's marks were placed on the ax blade. Often, in addition to the manufacturer, other data was stamped on the blade - year of manufacture, steel grade, fixed price. Factory "Trud" in the city of Vacha Until 1920, the plant was called "Kondratov", which was indicated on all manufactured products. The brand indicated the name of the plant, the city, and often included the state emblem. Until 1950, the plant, which already bore the name “Trud”, branded the products with the inscription “Z-d Trud”, “Z-d Trud Vacha”, or “Zavod Trud Vacha” "

Ax from 1935 with the stamp “Z-D LABOR VACHA 1935.” MADE in USSR":

From 1951 to 1956, the mark looked like this: two wide letters “Z” and “T”: the letter “Z” was slightly lower and behind, and the letter “T” was on top of it.

From 1957 to 1975, products were marked with three capital letters. In the middle was the letter “T”, and on the sides of it were “Z” and “B”, connected by a line.

Soviet fire ax with the stamp “ZTV”:

From 1975 until 1992, the mark had two letters - “O” and “T”, which were written in cursive, and the first stick of the letter “T” intersected with the “O” so that it was not visible.

Izhstal plant.
The most common mark used to designate the axes of this enterprise: in the center of the circle is the letter “I”, surrounded by part of a hexagon, around it the steel grade, year and month of production, and price are indicated.

Experts say that if the year is missing, you can take a closer look at the stamp itself. In their opinion, older versions of the axes had new stamps that looked clearer.

In addition, according to their own statement, for work it is better to buy an Izhstal plant ax before the eighties of production, like most axes produced in the USSR.

An ax produced by IzhStal with the UPS mark - “universal increased durability” made of tool alloy steel 8ХФ:

State Bearing Plant No. 1 . Most often, the inscription “1GP3” was indicated on the blades of axes from this plant and the year of manufacture, the city of Moscow or the cost of the product were added to it.

Axes with stamps “1GPZ MOSCOW”:

There is also a variant of the stamp with the image of a bearing, inside of which there is an inscription.
 

Zlatoust Tool Plant.
This plant is one of those that had several common types of marks found on axes. Such instruments, along with the rest of the most famous Soviet ones, were considered the best.

Axes with ZIK stamps:

The most common ZIK mark on axes was the inscription of these three letters inside a triangle. There were two options: when the year of manufacture was written below the stamp itself, along with the rest of the information, and when the inscriptions were stamped around the stamp. There is also a mark in the form of two crossed hammers, with the inscription below them - ZGZ.

Other common ax marks:

In the circle there is the inscription “plant named after. Gorky", on top - the year of manufacture. The inscription "ZIK" in a circle and in Ukrainian, around - an indication of the price, year of production and steel grade. The mark refers to the Kirov plant in the city of Zaporozhye.

A triangle divided into three parts, in which there are the letters “O”, “OB”, “Z” - Obninsk ITC.

Some features of axes and tips for choosing

It is easy to determine how a particular Soviet ax was made and according to what standards, because each of them necessarily complied with GOST. It is enough to get documents and see what standards were in the year of manufacture of a particular ax. They were observed very strictly, so most Soviet axes produced in the same period are practically the same. Specific rare hallmarks are of interest to collectors.

Source: http://xn--80aaxgqbdi.xn--p1ai/publ/1/znachenie_vidy_i_osobennosti_klejma_na_sovetskikh_toporakh/5-1-0-909

How to make an ax with your own hands from a simple ax and other materials: step-by-step instructions

An ax is a tool that appeared at the dawn of civilization, but people still use it to this day. Over time, different types of these instruments appeared. They will be useful in everyday life, hunting, hiking, etc. Such tools are sold in stores, but you can make them yourself. Learn how to make an ax with our simple instructions. To do this, you will need reliable and durable materials and strict adherence to the instructions.

First, let's figure out what types of axes there are:

1. Tourist. The dimensions and weight of the tool are small: 350 mm/0.5 kg. It is suitable for simple work.
2. Household and catering. This tool is used at home, in the country, or in cafes and restaurants for cutting meat and chopping bones. An ax with a wide steel blade will last a long time.
3. For firewood. The ax blade is made of hardened steel (sharpening 40-60°), the ax handle is made of wood.

   The tool is simple and convenient to use.

4. Taiga. This device has a shape and dimensions that differ from the parameters of a regular ax. It is in camping and other harsh conditions.
5. Plotnitsky. This ax has a sharp blade and a comfortable handle. It is not used for chopping wood.
6. Cleaver. This hatchet easily splits logs.
7. Combat. Battle axes are edged weapons. They are bought only as collectibles with documents.

Features of a homemade ax

Homemade handmade axes are easy-to-use devices that will help you in your work. If the product is made correctly, a good result will not be long in coming. You can make a simple ax from wood with your own hands or make a more complex version. In this case, you will create the tool yourself, and it will exactly meet your requirements. To make a hatchet correctly, follow our instructions.

Tools and materials

Before making an axe, choose your materials and tools. How convenient the tool will be to use depends on how well the handle is made. The blade is made of steel. The handle is made from the following wood: birch, ash, oak and maple.

You can make a Viking ax or other type of tool with your own hands from a simple axe.

To make a hatchet, you will need these tools:

• welding machine;
• abrasive sharpener;
• file;
• magnetic corner;
• sandpaper;
• sharpening disc (blade sharpening);
• marker (marking);
• Bulgarian;
• chisel;
• clamp.

DIY ax

Any ax can be made at home. By following simple rules, you can make simple, hunting, taiga, tourist, throwing or decorative hatchets, tools from car springs with your own hands.

You can also modify an old tool or completely remake it, creating a new and easy-to-use axe.

For example, make a taiga ax from an old one with your own hands. To do this kind of work yourself, you should prepare drawings in advance.

From a spring

A small tool is made from a spring from a car with your own hands. It can become either a working object or an original decorative item, similar to a Viking axe. Whatever you have in mind, it can be easily accomplished if you follow all the steps consistently. Just select the option you want, watch the video and get started.

A tool made from strong and durable materials will last a long time. You can do this by following these tips:

1. Take a used car spring (width - 10 cm, length - approximately 40 cm), using a previously prepared template with a marker, draw the contours of an ax on its surface.
2. Cut the product along the contour with a grinder, then sand the workpiece well to give it the appropriate shape.
3. An ax handle can be a leg from an old chair. For fastening, make several holes in the spring.
4. Saw off any excess from the leg, then saw it in half. Drill 3 notches in both halves.

   Then assemble the handle, secure it with screws and bolts, and then grind it using the machine.

5. Sharpen your blade.

From reinforcement

The reinforcement is very strong and durable; splitting axes are made from it. These hatchets will be useful to you at the dacha, during camping and other conditions. They are well suited for chopping wood. You will make a durable ax from reliable material, and it will serve you for many years. Mark the parameters on paper. Please include all measurements as they may vary.

The handle of a hatchet can be large, medium or small, like its blade. How to make a hatchet with your own hands from rebar:

• Take 2 reinforcement bars (length 50 cm) and blanks (8 pieces) from which the upper and lower squares will be made.
• Use a welding machine to weld a couple of squares, and then the posts.
• It is better to make the blade from steel up to 10 mm thick. Weld it to the fittings too.
• Sharpen your blade.

From a circular saw

It is possible to make an ax with your own hands from a circular saw. A durable and strong tool is made from a carved disk. In this case, the disk will not need to be pre-hardened, since it has already been hardened.

A product made from a circular saw will be very reliable. A hatchet from this tool is made as follows:

• Sketch the product, then cut out the finished template. It needs to be placed on the cutting disc.
• Use an impeller to cut along the contour of the template.
• Heat the part with a torch, then drill holes.
• Wipe the ax thoroughly with sandpaper.
• Make a handle from wood. Apply glue to both halves of the handle, then secure the 2 screws.
• Sand the handle, then coat its surface with varnish.

From stone

A durable and reliable ax is made from natural stone. Such raw materials will produce durable blades. Just keep in mind that such work will be labor-intensive and time-consuming. But the result is worth it, because the ax will serve you for a long time. These types of stones are suitable: granite, quartzite and sandstone. The best solution for such a tool is an oak handle. Oak products are more reliable and wear-resistant. A workpiece made of smooth wood, without bulges or knots, is suitable.

Making an ax handle is simple: cut the wood, use a template to give it a shape that will be comfortable to hold in your hands. Sand the stone so that the material can fit as closely as possible to the end of the handle and is well fixed to it. There is no need to use special machines and other equipment. It is enough to remove the surface layer from the surface of the stone. The handle cannot be made from raw wood: when it dries, it will decrease in size. Because of this, you will not be able to use the axe.

Making an ax handle with your own hands

A good result in your work largely depends on how well the tool is made. It is important that you feel comfortable using it. The handle of the hatchet must also be made correctly. It happens that the cutting edge becomes dull, the piercing part can fly off, etc.

Masters advise making an ax handle at home so that it fully meets your requirements. How to make an ax handle for an ax with your own hands? The diagrams are well illustrated in the photo.

A reliable handle is suitable for making a Viking ax with your own hands from an old axe.

Sketch and template of an ax

To make an ax handle of the required size, you should first make a sketch and template from thick cardboard. The drawn handle is placed on cardboard and outlined with a pencil. This sample will help you cut a wooden handle according to the specified parameters, and working with such a tool will be convenient and easy. The sizes are determined depending on the person’s height and build.

The result itself depends on how accurately you take measurements and how carefully you prepare the template. You can make a taiga or any other ax out of an old one with your own hands.

Wood for an ax

A do-it-yourself wooden ax is made from hard and durable wood. The durable ax handle is resistant to impacts and other damage. Craftsmen recommend hardwood. The material is thoroughly dried, sometimes in a special drying chamber.

The raw materials must be dry so that the ax does not change its shape in case of high humidity.

Pay attention to which direction the fibers are directed. The durable hatchet handle withstands impacts well and does not crack.

The fibers on such a handle are evenly spaced and there are no weaves on it.

Blade sharpening

After you make the tool, you will need to sharpen the blade. A sharpened ax will become dull over time, and it is advisable for you to learn how to sharpen it yourself. It is better to sharpen the ax with your own hands first than to work with a dull blade.

Sharpen the product according to the template; it is prepared in advance. It is possible to sharpen a metal ax with your own hands using tin. Axes can also be sharpened with a grinder. Whatever method you choose, prepare protective equipment: respirator, goggles, face shield. Follow safety precautions.

Making a storage case

When you have made a taiga or other ax from an old one with your own hands, sew a bag for it. It is safe to transport and store tools in it. Make a case from durable material, taking into account the size of the ax. There are three simple options:

• You can easily make a case for an ax with your own hands from a bag or an old briefcase. Draw contours with allowances on the material. Then sew the leather with a gypsy needle, to make it easier for you to make stitches, use an awl.
• Make your own ax bag from old leather. Craftsmen advise making the case from thick leather. Draw the head on the inside with a pencil, and then cut out two identical parts and sew them together.

Photos of hand-made ax options

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Source: https://tehnikaportal.ru/kak-sdelat-topor-svoimi-rukami-iz-prostogo-topora-i-drugix-materialov-poshagovaya-instrukciya/

What is the best steel for an axe? — Metals, equipment, instructions

In modern times, advanced and modern technologies make our lives easier, thereby displacing all the old and reliable technologies. At the moment, almost all equipment runs on gasoline or electricity. But the technology has not yet touched the ordinary ax.

Today, almost every resident of a private or country house has an ax. This tool is an indispensable assistant in the home, on the farm and in other works. However, it is advisable that there should be not one ax in the house, but several, since axes have different purposes.

So, for example, carpenter's axes are intended for small carpentry and carpentry work, forged axes are most often used for chopping firewood, and there are axes for chopping meat.

Currently, there is a huge selection of types of axes, and therefore choosing the necessary ax model for yourself is very difficult. All of them have their own technical features, properties and characteristics, and have different prices. However, many people choose high-quality axes for themselves, but choosing such an ax is very difficult.

Choosing steel for an ax

The service life of an ax largely depends on the steel from which the blade is made. As a rule, manufacturers use steel with a high percentage of carbon to make an ax; such steel has very high resistance to temperature changes, as well as to external influences.

Therefore, for many buyers the question becomes which steel to choose? This is an important factor, if not a determining one, so you need to approach it carefully and thoughtfully.

Currently, the marking of steel axes also has a letter designation from the times of the USSR. (U7A; U8; U8A; U8GA) all of the listed steel grades are the most suitable for an axe, so it is recommended to choose an ax with this marking.

In order to ensure the quality of the steel before purchasing the ax you need, you need to strike the ax blade with some hard object. After which, there should be a loud and prolonged sound, if this does not happen, then refuse to purchase this ax.

Best carpenter's ax

Carpenter's axes have a very convenient and comfortable handle, while the thickness of the blade is medium in size. However, many skilled carpenters sharpen the blade only at their own discretion.

In this case, the weight of the ax is of no small importance; this should also be taken into account, since carpentry work has its own specifics and features. Therefore, carpenter's axes are an indispensable assistant when performing various carpentry works.

However, an ax in this category has its certain pros and cons:

Pros:

• has a high degree of balance.
• has a comfortable handle shape.
• You are allowed to sharpen the blade yourself at your own discretion.
• has a special coating on the blade that prevents friction with wood.

There is one minus - it is not suitable for chopping wood.

Best forged ax

This ax model is made using forging, and such work is usually performed manually by a qualified craftsman. To make a forged ax, only very high quality steel is used, since this determines how high quality the product will be.

Forged axes have one distinctive feature from axes of other models: the use of the ax head as a hammer or sledgehammer, which makes such a tool universal.

However, an ax in this category has its pros and cons:

Pros:

• Such products are made individually.
• They have a comfortable and long handle.
• made of high quality materials, its blade is made of hardened steel; it is universal; with such an ax you can chop wood, fell wood, or cut up a carcass.
• has a long service life.
• does not have significant weight.

Disadvantage: since this is handmade, the cost of such a product will be very high.

Therefore, if you have any questions or doubts about choosing an ax, you can look at the photo of a good ax.

Of course, we can say that there is nothing complicated or incomprehensible in choosing an ax. However, this is absolutely not true. The fact is that when choosing an ax, you need to decide why you need an ax in general, and for what purposes?

Next you need to pay attention to the grade of steel and sharpening of the blade. After that, you can choose the handle for yourself. Which should be comfortable and could be held comfortably and pleasantly.

Photo tips for choosing an ax

We also recommend viewing:

Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/stal-dlya-topora-kakaya-luchshe/

Meaning, types and features of marks on axes

An ax is one of the few tools whose appearance does not change over time. However, recently the quality of this indispensable household tool has noticeably deteriorated, which especially applies to products manufactured in China.

USSR axes were made strictly in accordance with GOST and have always been of high quality. There were popular enterprises that were engaged in the manufacture of this instrument; their products are still very highly valued.

Factories put a mark on the ax, which is now used by connoisseurs of high-quality tools and antiques to attribute them to a specific manufacturer. What types of marks are there on axes?

Brand on the ax

Major Soviet tool manufacturers

1) Vach plant “Trud”. In 1830, a factory was founded in Vacha, which was engaged in the manufacture of steel products. The factory developed under the leadership of several generations of the Kondratovs, its founders. In 1920 it was nationalized and changed its name to “Trud”. During the war she worked for the needs of the army. The Trud plant still exists and continues to produce similar products.

2) Izhstal plant. In 1760, Shuvalov founded an ironworks. Before the war it was called “Plant No. 180”. And in 1939 it was divided into two parts, which were named: metallurgical plant No. 74 and machine-building plant No. 71. Now it is the small arms plant of IzhStal-TNP LLC.

3) State Bearing Plant 1. The decision to build the plant was made in 1929, but it was built in 1932. It was the first plant that specialized in the production of ball bearings. During the Great Patriotic War, the enterprise was evacuated, but continued to operate. Now it is called Moscow Bearing OJSC.

4) Zlatoust Tool Plant. It was founded by the industrialists Mosolovs in 1754 and was called the Zlatoust Iron Smelting and Ironworks. In 1811 it was merged with the Satkinsky, Kusinsky and Artinsky factories.

In 1815, an arms factory was established at the plant, which in 1917 became one of the plant’s workshops. During the war, the plant suspended operations and was later nationalized.

In 1925, it was divided into three independent enterprises: mechanical, metallurgical and abrasive plants. In 1939, it received the name Zlatoust Tool Plant - ZIK. Now it is no longer functioning.

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, it was renamed the Bulat Production Association, which was declared bankrupt in 2005.

Factory marks on axes

Manufacturers' marks were placed on the ax blade and were often supplemented with such characteristics as steel grade, year of manufacture, and fixed price.

Factory "Trud" in the city of Vacha:

• Until 1920, the plant was called “Kondratov”, which was indicated on all manufactured products. The brand indicated the name of the plant, the city, and often the state emblem.
• Until 1950, the plant, which already bore the name “Trud,” branded its products with the words “Z-d Trud”, “Z-d Trud Vacha”, or “Zavod Trud Vacha”.
• From 1951 to 1956, the mark looked like this: two wide letters “Z” and “T”: the letter “Z” was slightly lower and behind, and the letter “T” was on top of it.
• From 1957 to 1975, products were marked with three capital letters. In the middle was the letter “T”, and on the sides of it were “Z” and “B”, connected by a line.
• From 1975 until 1992, the mark had two letters - “O” and “T”, which were written in cursive, and the first stick of the letter “T” intersected with the “O” so that it was not visible.

Izhstal plant. The most common mark used to designate the axes of this enterprise: in the center of the circle is the letter “I”, surrounded by part of a hexagon, around it the steel grade, year and month of production, and price are indicated.

Experts say that if the year is missing, you can take a closer look at the stamp itself. In their opinion, older versions of the axes had new stamps that looked clearer.

In addition, according to their own statement, for work it is better to buy an Izhstal plant ax before the eighties of production, like most axes produced in the USSR.

State Bearing Plant 1. Most often, the inscription “1GP3” was indicated on the blades of the axes of this plant and the year of manufacture, the city of Moscow or the cost of the product were added to it. There is also a variant of the stamp with the image of a bearing, inside of which there is an inscription.

Zlatoust Tool Plant. This plant is one of those that had several common types of marks found on axes. Such instruments, along with the rest of the most famous Soviet ones, were considered the best.

The most common ZIK mark on axes was the inscription of these three letters inside a triangle. There were two options: when the year of manufacture was written below the stamp itself, along with the rest of the information, and when the inscriptions were stamped around the stamp. There is also a mark in the form of two crossed hammers, with the inscription below them - ZGZ.

Other common ax marks:

• In the circle there is the inscription “plant named after. Gorky", at the top - the year of manufacture.
• The inscription “ZIK” in a circle and in Ukrainian, around it there is an indication of the price, year of production and steel grade. The mark refers to the plant named after. Kirov in the city of Zaporozhye.
• A triangle divided into three parts, in which there are the letters “O”, “OB”, “Z” - Obninsk ITC.

Some features of axes and tips for choosing

It is easy to determine how a particular Soviet ax was made and according to what standards, because each of them necessarily complied with GOST. All you have to do is get the documents and see what the standards were that year. It was mandatory to comply with them, which is why most of the axes produced in the USSR in the same period are practically the same. Specific marks are of interest to collectors.

How to choose an ax if you are faced with this issue for the first time and want to purchase it for work. Important factors when choosing are:

• product weight;
• blade shape;
• shape and quality of the axe.

Weight. The ax must weigh more than 900 grams. The goals pursued by manufacturers of axes with less weight are not at all clear. This weight is more typical for axes for tourist purposes, but even for these purposes you can take a heavier ax, since a lighter ax will not be able to do much on a hike.

The optimal weight for an ax is considered to be 0.9–1.7 kg. With such a weight it will be more comfortable to work, the tool fits well in the hand. It is suitable for splitting small and medium-sized firewood and for construction. To split large firewood, you should look at an ax with a weight of 2000–2500 grams. Accordingly, it should also have an elongated ax handle.

The shape of the blade is a more important parameter. The standard ax is considered to be a carpenter's axe; it was also produced according to GOST in Soviet times. The ax is the most versatile and suitable for most jobs. This tool is not very well suited for forest conditions, but is perfect for everything else.

There are several additional types of axes for forest use. The Finnish-shaped ax has a rounded blade and a cutout at the bottom. It is suitable for both chopping wood and felling trees. The taiga ax is designed for cutting hardwood. Its blade is located at a sharper angle to the ax handle, so its upper part enters the tree first.

Regarding the grade of steel from which the blade is made, it is worth considering the following. If the ax is made of too soft steel, it will often become dull. Hard or overheated steel will crumble, especially if there are defects and defects in the structure of the blade.

The ax handle is no less important than the blade. The type of wood from which it is made must withstand vibrations well. If it is otherwise, then the force of the blow with the ax will partially turn into vibration, and the effectiveness of the blow will become less.

It is a mistake to make ax handles from pine, which is most often used for this. Birch is perfect for this purpose; it is quite hard, flexible and light in weight.

Oak also has good characteristics necessary for making an ax handle.

The shape of the handle of the ax should have a comfortable curve and fit well in the hand; there should be a thickening at the end. The optimal length is from fifty to seventy centimeters; the ax handle, which is longer, is used for more serious work.

Of course, if we are talking about very old axes, then, most likely, only the blade will be purchased, and the ax handle may be completely absent. You will have to select it or do it yourself.

The concept of Soviet quality has always existed, especially regarding instruments. When buying a Soviet-style axe, you should definitely look at the date of manufacture and check this year’s GOST for compliance with the desired parameters. Most axes have standard and identified marks, but there are also unidentified ones. For a collector, the difference is fundamental, but for a person who just wants to buy a high-quality instrument for their household, any will do.

Source: https://DedPodaril.com/interesno/kleymo-na-topore.html

Tourist axe: main characteristics – Military Blog

Reading time:

1. Hunting or tourist, which is better?
2. Types of axes
3. Sharpening an ax
4. The best handle for a camping ax
5. How to properly place an ax on an ax handle
6. The best manufacturers of tourist axes

A camping ax will be needed for various purposes in any outing, even if you do not plan to build a hut in the forest or a ship on the lake. Even if someone prudently took a saw into the forest, you still cannot do without an ax. Let's list the purposes for which an ax may be needed:

• Cut out stakes for setting up a tent. Even a small travel hatchet can handle this. Severe hunters can make pegs with their hunting knife, but for a tourist this procedure can be very traumatic;
• Drive in the newly made pegs. Here a hunting cleaver is unlikely to help, although hammering a peg into a peg is not a problem for a leukku;
• A tourist ax is ideal for cutting branches;
• Cut out different poles;
• Set up a hut or chop spruce legs for a bed;
• A hunting ax can easily chop up the carcass of an animal (a small tourist ax is difficult, but will also cope with this task).

Indeed, an ax is not only a multifunctional tool, but also a very effective weapon.

There is a well-known case during the Second World War, when one Red Army soldier dispersed a detachment of Germans of 50 people, and he killed about half using an ordinary ax.

During the times of ancient Rus', the ax was the only weapon and tool of the peasant with which he did not part. With an ax he could cut down a hut, protect his family, or become a robber.

Hunting or tourist, which is better?

There are often debates about which ax is better to take into the forest: hunting or tourist? Many people do not know that there is no clear division of axes into such categories. An ax that can be used to build a hunting shed or hideout is not suitable for skinning.

If you sharpen it to a razor sharpness, cutting logs with it means immediately ruining the sharpening. If we focus specifically on functionality, then an ax for a hunter should chop up a carcass and cut up meat, and a tourist’s ax should be ideal for chopping wood.

It should be noted that an experienced hunter or tourist’s ax is always perfectly sharpened and differs only in the choice of sharpening angle.

If a hunter plans to cut up carcasses and remove skins on each hunt with an axe, then it must be sharpened to a razor sharpness, and the blade must be wide. If you like to go camping for a week without taking a tent with you, then you will need a massive ax, with a long handle and quite heavy.

part of the ax is its blade. It must be made of high-quality steel, which must be properly hardened. If the hardening technology is not followed, the blade will be either brittle or soft. You can't do much work with an ax like that.

When choosing an ax, you need to pay close attention to the quality of the steel. This is especially true when purchasing a Chinese or domestic axe.

In the case of a Chinese product, you shouldn’t count on high-quality steel at all, and when buying a domestic ax you should choose among several copies. Check the ax blades by sound. You need to click your fingernail on the blade and listen to the sound.

If it is loud and ringing, then you can take the ax. If there is a quiet and dull sound, you should immediately put such an ax aside.

The choice of ax weight should be made individually. For small jobs, the weight may not exceed 800 grams. Carpenter's axes weigh up to 1500 grams. Specific – up to 3500 grams.

There are axes:

• Hiking or tourist;
• Hunting;
• Plotnitsky;
• Construction;
• Cleavers;
• Myasnitsky.

A real hunting ax is light, with a notch on the cutting part. Its weight does not exceed 800 grams, since the hunter’s equipment should not be heavy. The blade of this ax should easily cut meat and chop carcasses. In general, the hunting ax is very similar to the Russian battle ax of the 11th-13th centuries.

The ax handle can be made of wood or impact-resistant plastic. The plastic handle does not dry out, but is much more expensive.

If such a handle breaks in the forest, it will not be possible to replace the handle on the spot.

Wooden handles do not have this drawback, and using a knife you can easily cut out a new ax handle (of course, upon arrival home it will need to be replaced with dried wood).

Sharpening an ax

The most important condition for high-quality work of an ax is proper sharpening. Many “experts” recommend sharpening the ax at an angle of 20 degrees, achieving razor sharpness.

This is a completely wrong approach! If the blade hits a strong knot, it may get chipped, and if you accidentally come across a nail, the blade will definitely be damaged. There are no knives or axes that can shave the hair on the forearm while cutting nails.

The chisel cuts metal not due to high-quality steel, but due to the large sharpening angle.

Ideally, the sharpening of the ax should be oval. An ax sharpened in this way will remain sharp for a long time. They can cut both wood and meat. Usually the ax is sharpened on an electric sharpener, but in the field a rough whetstone will do.

The best handle for a camping ax

The ideal ax handle is made from birch. The tree must be dried (preferably the lower part of the trunk). The birch handle is light and durable. With proper use it will last at least five years.

The shape of the handle should be straight, with a bend or thickening at the end desirable for better fixation of the ax in the hand. Many people choose beautiful varnished axes, which is highly undesirable. Such a handle will easily slip out of your hands and fly in an unknown direction.

The ax is mounted on the ax handle according to the following scheme. To begin with, it is advisable to strengthen the ax handle at the bottom. Many axes from the times of the USSR had a beard that was adjacent to the ax handle. You can place an iron plate between the ax and the handle, then covering it with leather.

How to properly place an ax on an ax handle

There are many secrets associated with attaching axes to ax handles. Many people wedge an ax with an iron wedge, and then wonder why the ax begins to come loose. The wedge must be made of hard wood.

In order to avoid deformation of the ax handle associated with changes in humidity, the ax should be placed on a perfectly dried ax handle. Having bought it in a store, it is better to throw it in the heating radiator for the whole winter, and plant it in the spring.

For a tighter “axe-handle” connection, the place where the ax will be mounted should be coated with epoxy resin and a piece of leather wrapped there (some people use several layers of gauze impregnated with epoxy resin instead of leather). Before driving in the wedge, it must also be thoroughly lubricated with epoxy.

The most reliable way is to wedge the ax using three or five wedges. In the case of using three wedges, one of them is driven in the center, across the entire width, and the other two above and below it. It is better to lubricate the wedges with epoxy before driving them in.

The five wedge method comes in two types:

• In the first case, one longitudinal incision is made along the entire length and two transverse ones, at an equal distance from each other. This method will allow you to ideally secure the ax to the ax handle, the main thing is not to forget about epoxy resin;
• It is very rare to find the option of fastening with five wedges, when two vertical wedges are made and three small horizontal ones between them. In this case, two large wedges are turned at an angle of 90 degrees to the ax handle.

The best manufacturers of tourist axes

The best serial axes, which have proven themselves in work, are produced by Fiskars. Its axes are quite expensive, but their model range is quite wide and everyone can choose the appropriate ax by weight.

The MORA company makes good axes. True, this manufacturer does not differ in the variety of models.

Nowadays, the industry produces many different types of axes. You can choose a good specimen at specialized exhibitions, where you can also order a handmade ax from blacksmiths. Choose an ax according to your tasks, and it will not let you down in any situation.

Source: https://dubki-nk.ru/proekty/topor-turisticheskij-osnovnye-harakteristiki.html

What is the best steel for an ax?

A universal tool that may be needed at the dacha, on a hike in the forest, or just on vacation near a river, or at home for household purposes, is an ax. Despite its simple design, this device has many uses and varies in manufacturing methods and quality.

Main characteristics

All types of axes are divided into three main groups:

• splitting axes;
• for felling work in the forest;
• universal tools for construction and household purposes.

Within each identified group, there are varieties that are determined by the purpose and characteristics of the component parts. Taking into account the most important parameters will help you decide which ax is best to choose. It is worth noting the fact that you simply cannot do without an ax on a summer cottage!

Weight parameters

The possibility of its use in wood processing depends on how heavy the tool is. The minimum value is considered to be a mass of 0.9 kg. Lighter models are used only for a limited range of household and household purposes when finishing small workpieces, for example, for sharpening wedges.

For standard work with wood, you will need a tool of 0.9-1.7 kg. It will be effective both when cutting medium-thick firewood and when carrying out construction work. Heavier splitting axes weighing 2.2-2.5 kg are used for chopping large firewood. They have a longer ax handle.

Blade shape and sharpening

In practice, axes with three types of butts are used:

• wide, designed for felling timber;
• average, having a universal purpose;
• narrow - used when carrying out neat carpentry work.

Features of the shape of the blade can be assessed from the photo of the axe. Straight sharpening allows you to deliver high-quality chopping blows, but curved sharpening is suitable for both chopping and piercing movements. For example, a small, rounded blade is designed to penetrate deeper into the wood and cut fibers in the transverse direction.

With a sharpening angle of up to 40 degrees, increased penetration into the workpiece is ensured, although the dulling speed will be higher. In cleavers, the degree of sharpening at different edges of the blade will vary.

Blade material

For carpenter's axes, the blade is made by stamping low-carbon steel. Greater strength of the tool for lumberjacks is provided by forging steel U7 and 60G.

It should be remembered that the use of mild steel causes the tool to quickly become dull. Blades made of hard or hardened steel are prone to chipping.

Making an ax

The length of the ax depends on the purpose of the tool. The most comfortable indicator is 50-70 cm. But we must remember that the swing and force of the blow depend on the length. Therefore, for heavier work, a tool larger than 70 cm is required.

The ax handle can be metal, including one with a special rubber lining. This is a more durable design, but it has a big drawback - it does not dampen vibration well.

The force of the blow, together with the resistance of the workpiece, is absorbed by the axe. And therefore it is recommended to use wood, in particular birch, for its manufacture. But cheaper and more accessible pine dampens vibration much worse.

A tool with an oak handle is suitable for lumberjacks. The handle itself should be comfortable, without knots or chips. At the end of the ax there is a thickening and a hole for fastening.

Types of axes

Depending on the purpose and intended use, you can choose the optimal design of the tool. There are various types of axes on sale.

Tourist

This is a lighter and more compact tool that can have a rounded blade shape. It is sharp and can be used as a knife. Handle length up to 50 cm. Supplied with a protective cover.

Such an ax is quite expensive, cannot be used for chopping, and rust often appears. Popular brands include Geter Gator II and Expedition HB-040.

Household and catering

In everyday life or in food establishments, axes are used for chopping meat or bones. The design features a wide blade made of durable steel with an angled sharpening. This is a heavy and durable model.

The big disadvantage is the need to use physical force to work. Also, the wooden ax handle can dry out. The products “Meat Chopper” and “Trud” VACHA S901 are known.

For firewood

The catalog of axes in this category with the best quality includes products from TUTAHI, KRAFTOOL Rhine and Universal.

For these purposes, models with a hardened steel blade with a sharpening of 40-60 degrees and a wooden ax are used. This ensures simplicity and efficiency in operation.

Bilateral

This tool has two identical high-carbon steel blades that provide excellent balancing. The sharpening angle can be different, and the ax handle can be replaceable.

However, this is a traumatic and heavy design, which excludes the possibility of use as an impact tool. Experts recommend models such as SOG F12 and OCHSENKOPF.

For wood cutting

A large ax with a long handle for a strong blow. There is a rounded blade. The instrument has a narrow specialization and is used only for its intended purpose. Lumberjacks may find HULKAFORS, SCANDINAVIAN FOREST AX or WETTERLINGS AMERICAN FOREST AX brands suitable.

Plotnitsky

This is a well-balanced tool with a sharp blade and a comfortable handle. You cannot use it for chopping, and after purchasing the product you need to select the required sharpening characteristics.

You can choose Gardena 1000A 08714-48.000.00 or Wetterlings Hjartum Carpenter's Ax for this purpose. The Izhevsky ax is also popular.

Forged

The highest quality, strongest and most durable products. A forged ax is most often made to order. The Taiga brands and products from the Phoenix workshop are popular.

Cleaver

This ax has an elongated handle, a steel blade with a sharpening of 40-60 degrees. This is a highly specialized instrument that is well balanced. Used for processing thick and dense wood. Experts recommend using VIPUKIRVES or Council Tool Hudson Bay Ax products.

Dachny

Axes “DACHANT” standart SZAN330, T-03-1 or VOREL 33107 will help solve everyday problems on a country plot. Such models are suitable for chopping firewood and are used when cutting logs.

They are distinguished by their versatility, a blade made of durable steel and a wooden handle, which, however, can dry out after 5 years.

Making an ax with your own hands

If you are interested in the question of how to make an ax, then remember that you will not be able to make a blade from scratch yourself. You can only give a regular blade the desired shape by processing it with a grinder or an emery wheel.

But it’s quite possible to make an ax handle. To do this you need:

• select a workpiece with a diameter of more than 120 mm and a length 200 mm longer than the planned handle;
• dry for several months at a temperature of 22-24 degrees and a humidity of 15%;
• using an ax or large knife, remove excess wood in accordance with the outlined contour;
• carry out processing with a chisel and hammer.

Now it is important to learn how to mount an ax correctly. This is done using gauze and epoxy resin. The presence of a wedge provides better strength. After this, grinding is done, and the ax handle is varnished. Sharpening is done on a machine or manually.

An ax is a useful assistant both in the country and on a hike and when working in the forest. You just need to choose the right model, focusing on the required characteristics and workmanship of a particular instance.

Photo of an ax

Source: https://respect-kovka.com/stal-dlya-topora-kakaya-luchshe/

What steel are axes made from?

• 1 Forged axes, hunting, carpentry and fighting, storage in military warehouses in the USSR, large ones made of damask steel, advantages and disadvantages
• 2 Ax - the best modern professional factory tools and products of private blacksmiths (85 photos)
• 3 Ax - 115 photos of the best tools and making them yourself
• 4 Hardening an ax at home - video, photos, nuances
• 5 A do-it-yourself ax is a feasible task for real men
• 6 How to choose an ax: for a summer house, for chopping wood, for tourism
• 7 Top 5: best axes
• 8 Tourist axe, which is better: hunting, hiking or small, manufacturers, correct sharpening of the blade, handle made of wood or rubber
• 9 Axes - types and purpose - Directory
  • 9.1 Characteristics of axes
  • 9.2 Materials for making an ax
  • 9.3 About the ax handle
• 10 Meaning, types and features of marks on axes
• 11 Tool steel U7

Forged axes are produced at industrial enterprises using machine forging technologies. The purpose of this technological operation is to strengthen the structure of the steel and refine the shape of the product. The same goal is pursued by hand forging a tool.

Machine forging reproduces hand-made technologies. In this case, the result is often even better, since temperature conditions are better observed and the impact force is normalized. Machine forging has an advantage in tool production.

Handmade becomes the prerogative in the manufacture of artistic products.

Machine or hand forging of steel

Machine forging produces high-quality serial axes. Manual is used for non-standard products made in private workshops. Machine forging equipment is bulky and expensive, it is inaccessible even for small-scale production, so they use classic manual technology.

Classic carpenter's steel ax

The shape of this product has not changed for several hundred years. The classic design has a blade, a blade, a butt or striker, and an eye for an axe. The blade is divided into a heel, a beard, a blade chamfer, etc. The main characteristic of the choice is the weight of the ax and its form factor. Axes for woodworking are divided into three form factors:

• carpenter's axe;
• carpentry (timber);
• cleaver

They have almost the same blade and blade shape, but differ significantly in profile.

The cleaver has the most massive profile. This is a wedge with straight or even convex edges. The carpenter's ax already has a thin blade, sunken edges, but a chisel sharpening angle. Carpenters need a tool that can withstand impacts on tough branches without causing nicks.

The plank carpenter's ax has a thin blade and a razor edge. Of all these types, the classic carpenter's ax is the most common. Such axes from the USSR times are very popular from storage. The carpenter's form factor is versatile, durable, and can be used for a variety of woodworking projects.

The cleaver is ineffective when cutting across the grain. In addition, its heavy weight makes it difficult to work with.

For a carpenter's ax with a razor sharpening, one blow to a knot is enough for jagged edges to appear on the blade. Such axes can only be found in carpentry workshops or made to order.

Despite such disadvantages, a carpenter's ax has the advantage of being easy to work with. It is used for making wood chips, splinters, in cooperage, for removing bark from logs, and for processing soft wood.

A well-sharpened carpenter's ax replaces a knife. It is a cutting tool rather than a chopping one.

Tactical axes: what should a tourist choose?

Tourists require slightly different qualities from an ax than carpenters. If the latter can afford to have several axes of different weights and an abundance of other tools in the workshop, then for a tourist all these provisions are unacceptable. He needs an all-in-one tool.

Manufacturers take this into account and produce special tourist axes. The stores offer a huge variety to suit every budget. Tourist axes are used as hunting axes for chopping meat. Often such a tool is required on picnics. Preference should be given to compact options made of good steel.

Forged axes made in the USSR are quite popular as tourist destinations.

Form factors of battle axes

Axes have been used as weapons since ancient times. The shape of the battle ax was gradually honed. Different nationalities at the same time came to different results. Among the North American Indians, the tomahawk with a simple triangular blade became the height of perfection.

In Russia, beard-shaped axes (berdysh - a modified version) were invented and massively supplied to the army; in Europe, the valashka (hatchet-cane) became widespread. The military ax is not currently in service.

It is stored in the logistics warehouses of the Ministry of Defense for various auxiliary works.

Battle axes are melee weapons. They can only be purchased as collector's items with the appropriate documentation. At the same time, many civilian products are almost complete copies of a battle ax and are sold freely.

Battle ax and battle tomahawk

The tomahawk appeared as an improved version of the battle ax. The most accurate indication of which ax is a tomahawk and which is not is its shape. The tomahawk has a long, narrow shape. Short blade, heel part with a small protrusion.

It must have a striker or beak added on the side of the butt. The first tomahawks, which were the weapons of the North American Indians, do not fall under this definition. It's a completely different design.

Despite the fact that the name “tomahawk” came from there, now this term means a completely different instrument.

The modern forged tomahawk is a hybrid of an axe, an ice ax and a pick. This is a universal tool. So that it can be used as a lever, a one-piece forged structure made from one piece of metal is used.

Such tools have a lot of weight and impact force. A thick rubber layer must be applied over the metal handle. This provides depreciation. It is very important for reducing fatigue during work.

Here are some uses for the medium combat tomahawk:

• cutting wood for heating and cooking;
• ice cutting, ice control;
• digging the earth, loosening dense soil, crushing rocks (an ice pick is used here);
• like a bladed weapon;
• like an assault ax: opening various rooms in special operations.

Despite its enormous popularity (tomahawk axes are in service in many countries around the world in special forces), as a battle ax the tomahawk is not the most successful form factor. The bearded ax has much greater versatility in battle.

The ratio of weight and blade length is completely different. It can be used as a hook to grab enemy limbs and clothing. This explains the shape of the battle axe. It became lightweight with a long neck and a narrow blade.

They were made of damask steel and were often richly decorated.

This option is called a “solid forged hatchet.” The form factor is applicable only for small models (light weight hatchets). Their special feature is their all-metal construction. The workpiece is produced by casting from tool steel.

The accuracy of such castings is low, so subsequent machining is always used. The blade is forged, the handle is ground, and a rubber layer is applied to it. The final stage is the application of protective coatings and sharpening of the blade.

Solid forged hatchets have no problems with the attachment on the ax handle, they can be used as a powerful lever and they have many other advantages. The form factor is used as hunting axes and similar kitchen axes for cutting meat. The main disadvantage of this design is its heavy weight, so the use of this form factor as a travel tool is limited. It is mainly used by joiners, carpenters, and car tourists.

Axes with a tubular metal handle should not be confused with a one-piece forged design. This is a completely different solution; there is a joint there, which is a potential weak point.

Source: https://steelfactoryrus.com/iz-kakoy-stali-delayut-topory/

The best steel for an ax

In modern times, advanced and modern technologies make our lives easier, thereby displacing all the old and reliable technologies. At the moment, almost all equipment runs on gasoline or electricity. But the technology has not yet touched the ordinary ax.

Today, almost every resident of a private or country house has an ax. This tool is an indispensable assistant in the home, on the farm and in other works. However, it is advisable that there should be not one ax in the house, but several, since axes have different purposes.

So, for example, carpenter's axes are intended for small carpentry and carpentry work, forged axes are most often used for chopping firewood, and there are axes for chopping meat.

Currently, there is a huge selection of types of axes, and therefore choosing the necessary ax model for yourself is very difficult. All of them have their own technical features, properties and characteristics, and have different prices. However, many people choose high-quality axes for themselves, but choosing such an ax is very difficult.

Forging an ax with your own hands

Forged axes are reliable and useful tools in everyday life . This article is devoted to the independent production of axes.

It can be forged using one of the well-known technologies: forge welding, solid forging, connecting the blade to the body with rivets, sometimes the eye was made by drilling in a solid metal blank. Due to its versatility, the chopping tool remains the most popular tool.

And if you change the size and shape of the blade (strike), the length of the handle, you can create various versions of an ax for multifunctional or specialized purposes. Detailed information is presented in the article.

Kinds

Forged carpenter's axe. Toporsib Photos

There are several types of forged axes:

• taiga;
• carpentry;
• meat;
• carpentry;
• hunting;
• tourist, hiking;
• gift

Technology of hand forging taiga, carpenter and other types of axes at home, from bearings, springs and other materials, video tutorials

Below are detailed instructions for making forged axes of different types and using several technologies.

How to forge an ax using forge welding

• Using this method, the ax is made from two parts . The body is made from a steel billet of ordinary quality (St. 3, for example) 170 mm long, which is cut from a strip with a section of 60x75 mm. For the blade you need to take tool steel (U7, for example).
• In the workpiece heated in the forge, 2 indentations are made and a ledge to form the butt.
• Then the workpiece is stretched to the required dimensions and accelerated .
• At the next stage, the workpiece is bent on the horn of a forge anvil or using a special mandrel so that a mandrel equal to the size of the handle at the place of the nozzle fits into the hole - the “mount” formed after bending.
• A wedge of the required dimensions is made from tool steel .

• The finished wedge is tightly inserted between the bent and pulled ends of the workpiece and driven between them.
• The workpiece together with the wedge is heated to welding temperature , and then forge welding is performed into the lock.
• The workpiece after welding is completed placed on a special steel mandrel, to perform the following operations:
  • the beard protecting the ax handle is cut and bent;
  • dimensions are brought to final values;
  • blade sharpening;
  • quenching and tempering according to heat treatment regimes for tool steels (blade section only).

How to make a solid forged ax

• For the manufacture of solid forged tools, high-quality carbon and alloy steels , for example, steel 45 or 35G.
• The mass of the workpiece required for the manufacture of the body increases by the size of the wedge part.
• The tool is forged in the same way as a welded one , until a hole is formed - “fitting in”.
• The firing pin cheeks are then forge welded and forged to the required shape and size.
• The blade is chopped off and carefully sharpened on an emery wheel, after which it must be hardened in accordance with the modes for the selected material.

The blade of a solid forged tool becomes dull faster and is less durable than an ax that is made using forge welding technology using tool steel for the blade.

Riveting the blade to the body is rarely used due to its complexity.

Hot forging of the Bear ax - varieties of taiga tools - by the masters of the Ural Craftsman forge

Demonstration of forging a blade and its attachment on an ax handle by the masters of the Ural Master forge.

Sections: How to make, Forging training - how to forge

Source: https://kovka-svarka.net/svoimi-rukami/topor/

Hardening and heat treatment of an ax

Blacksmith Valery Samovich: “Using an ax as an example, I want to talk about the heat treatment of steel at home, which includes three stages: annealing, hardening and tempering. The need for hardening arises if the manufacturer violates the heat treatment technology.

If the ax quickly becomes dull during use and dents appear on the tip, then the steel is soft. And this means that the ax is not hardened. And if the tip chips or cracks, that is, the steel is very hard and brittle, then this is possible if tempering has not been carried out after hardening.” A clean file with a fine notch will help us evaluate the hardness of steel, and therefore the quality of hardening.

If the hardness of the steel is high, then the file glides over it almost without catching. If the hardness of the steel is average, then the file will take it a little. And if the hardness of the steel is low and the file takes it easily, it means that the steel is not hardened, or the heat treatment technology was violated. In the case of this axe, the file takes it easily. In this case, as well as in the case of increased fragility, the ax is subjected to a full heat treatment cycle.

First, annealing, and then quenching and tempering. Correct hardening of an ax is considered to be hardening in which different parts of the ax are hardened differently. In the area of ​​the blade, at a distance of about three centimeters from the tip, the hardness of the steel should be high. The hardness of the rest of the ax should be much less. This hardening ensures the wear resistance of the blade and the ductility of the rest.

And it is a guarantee that during operation the butt will not burst or the blade will not break off.

GOST 18578 – 89 construction axes

The next point that we need to know to carry out effective heat treatment is the grade of steel from which the ax is made. All construction axes that were manufactured in the Soviet Union and are now manufactured in the post-Soviet space must comply with GOST 18578 - 89 Construction axes. This GOST specifies steel grades for the manufacture of axes. Each of these steels has its own heat treatment temperature regimes. And your own quenching media.

You can find out about this in steel grade books or in thermist’s reference books, which are freely available in the library. However, I want to emphasize the fact that the main materials for making axes are U7 and U7A steels. The ax I chose for experiments has a mark.

Above, the year of manufacture is 1963. On the left is the size according to GOST A2. On the right is steel. From which the ax is made. This is tool, carbon steel U7. Heat treatment modes for U7 steel are as follows:

Before heat treatment, the cutting edge of the ax must be dulled so that its thickness becomes approximately one millimeter.

Annealing

So, let's start heat treatment. The first operation is called annealing. Before hardening an ax or any other tool, it is necessary to anneal it. Annealing is a kind of zeroing of the structural memory of the metal.

It consists of heating the entire instrument to a temperature of 740-760 degrees and gradually cooling it to 550 degrees. At a speed of approximately 30-50 degrees per hour. Annealing is best done in a brick kiln. The most important question is how to determine the temperature of the metal.

A professional can easily determine the temperature by color. Well, a regular magnet will come to the aid of a beginner.

The fact is that steel, like iron, stops being magnetic at a temperature of 768 degrees . As the magnet heats up, we check whether the steel is magnetic. When the magnet stops sticking to the steel, this means that the temperature of our ax has exceeded 768 degrees and there is no need to heat it any more.

We remember the color of the glow for a temperature of 768 degrees. It's called red-burgundy. We will need this knowledge when hardening, which is carried out at a temperature of 800-830 degrees, which corresponds to the transition from dark red to red.

On the screen you see a table of heat and tarnish colors for carbon steel.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the camera distorts the real color, making it lighter. So, the temperature required for annealing has been reached. We move the coals away from the axe, close the stove, close the main valve and leave for 10 hours. Let the ax cool down along with the stove. During the annealing process, the microstructure of the metal is improved, internal stress is relieved and hardness is reduced. After cooling, the annealed steel becomes soft and can be easily taken with a file.

Hardening

The next heat treatment operation is hardening. As I already said, U7 grade steel is hardened at a temperature of 800-830 degrees. You can heat the ax over a fire, in a potbelly stove or brick oven. As soon as the metal stops being magnetic, wait a few more minutes, and then proceed to hardening. Hardening is carried out in two environments. The first medium is water heated to 30 degrees. The second is oil.

We dip the ax blade 3-4 centimeters into the water. We move it intensively so that the steam cushion does not interfere with cooling. The time spent in water is about 3 seconds. Then completely dip the ax in oil. Since the oil can catch fire, keep a piece of thick cloth ready. In order to close the bucket with it in case of fire and stop the access of oxygen for combustion.

We control the hardness of steel after hardening.

The blade after hardening turned out to be very hard, and therefore fragile. Therefore, by tempering it will need to be made softer and more flexible. In order to clearly see the colors of the tarnish during and after the tempering, we clean the ax with a wire wheel. This is what we have in the end.

Vacation

The last heat treatment operation is called tempering. Tempering is necessary to reduce the brittleness of hardened steel and relieve internal stresses in the metal that appeared during the hardening process. I bake in a regular oven. The ax is kept for one hour at a temperature of 300 degrees, and then cools in air. This is the handsome guy we got after our vacation.

The color of the tarnish is blue, indicating that the tempering temperature was approximately 300 degrees. You can see this color if you turn the metal surface towards the light in a certain way. We check the hardness of the metal after tempering and make sure that the blade has become a little softer. As we already know, the hardening temperature of U7 steel is 800-830 degrees. And it cannot be reduced.

At lower temperatures, hardening may not occur at all. But what should we do if, after hardening, we need to obtain ductile steel with a relatively low hardness? In this situation, we harden the steel as expected, but increase the tempering temperature. The higher the tempering temperature, the more ductile and softer the steel will be after tempering.

Data on the hardness of steels after tempering, depending on the tempering temperature, is available for each grade in steel grade books.

Hardening with self-tempering

Another method of hardening a tool is self-tempering. First, the tool is heated in a furnace to the hardening temperature. Then, the cutting part is cooled to a temperature of 150-170 degrees. After this, the cutting part is cleaned of scale in order to see the tarnish colors. Let's see how the purple color goes.

The tool is kept in air until the heat from the hot part heats the cooled part to a temperature of 250-300 degrees. We judge this by the color of the tarnish. Everything is purple. Cool. Water is used as a quenching medium. Only to cool the cutting part it is heated to 30 degrees.

And for the final cooling of the ax it is heated to 50 degrees.

Source: https://kovkapro.com/kovka-tehnologiya/zakalka-topora/