Sharpening an ax with a grinder
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This carpentry tool is used not only for chopping firewood, but also for trimming, partial removal of wood and a number of other technological operations. Therefore, sharpening an ax is a somewhat vague concept. If it is needed for a specific purpose, then it should not just be about the sharpness of the cutting edge, but about its correct processing. So we’ll figure out how to properly sharpen an ax without anyone’s help, with our own hands.
What to consider when sharpening
- Features of using an ax. It can be universal (carpentry), special (for example, fishing, tourist) or intended only for rough dismemberment of wood (cleaver).
- Features of the material. The tree differs in its species (therefore, strength) and degree of humidity. The higher its level, the more difficult it is to process the wood.
- Steel grade. The specifics and capabilities of sharpening the ax also depend on this factor.
Recommended cutting edge shapes
- Oval. Such sharpening is required for an ax that will be used for “rough” processing of wood - splitting, partial trimming. In fact, that's all.
- Razor. With this tool you can perform filigree work. For example, carry out figured cutting on wood, precise fitting of parts due to maximum leveling of surfaces. These axes are mainly used by professional carpenters.
- Wedge-shaped. This type of sharpening is also called straight sharpening. It is considered universal, since with this ax you can not only chop firewood, but also remove the top layer of wood and partially level the surfaces of samples. Moreover, regardless of the species, humidity and density of the tree.
For an ax that is used in everyday life, for household purposes, the sharpening should be wedge-shaped.
Recommended angle depending on the specific application of the tool (in degrees):
- raw wood processing – 20;
- dry cutting – 30.
Advice - since in everyday life an ax is used for various types of work, it is advisable to focus on the average sharpening angle of 25.
The procedure for sharpening an ax with your own hands
Chamfer is the beveled part of the blade that ends at the cutting edge. The efficiency of the operations performed by the ax, that is, productivity, directly depends on its width.
There are descriptions of old ways to change this parameter. For example, restoring the width to its original value, which gradually decreases due to metal wear. But in such situations, the tool had to be taken to the forge, where it was “drawn back.”
DIY sharpening technology
At home, it is advisable to practice the so-called “double descent” technique. It is not difficult to implement it at home, and therefore the services of a metalworking specialist will not be needed. The essence of the process is that the initial angle that is given to the chamfer is selected at 15º. After this initial sharpening of the ax, the cutting edge is formed. But to obtain a sharp blade, the value of angle β changes.
How much depends on the specific use of the tool. For an axe, the use of which is limited to household work, the average parameter is already indicated - 25.
Features of sharpening and the most common mistakes
If the work is done with your own hands, at home, it is understood that the owner uses only the tool or equipment that is at hand. As a rule, this is a homemade (or purchased) mini-machine under the general name “electric sharpener”. There is simply no other option, since no one will seriously consider the method of processing the cutting part with an ordinary file or whetstone.
During the process of sharpening an ax, the temperature in the working area rises (there is no need to explain what friction force is), and quite significantly. Consequently, at the slightest mistake (carelessness, carelessness), overheating of the metal is guaranteed.
And increased thermal exposure changes the structure of the material. As a result, the blade becomes brittle and brittle. If you work intensively with such an ax, you will have to sharpen it quite often.
And this is additional wear and tear on the metal and a waste of time and effort.
It is not enough just to securely fix the mini-machine at the installation site. The working surface of the table (workbench, bedside table, etc.) must be massive in order to exclude the slightest changes in the position of the sharpener during the process of sharpening the ax.
The same applies to abrasives. Firstly, it is necessary to ensure its reliable “fit” on the motor shaft. Secondly, prevent its distortions. Thirdly, the wheel should not be worn out, otherwise the ax cannot be sharpened correctly. Fourthly, it is necessary to eliminate runout of the shaft itself, which is often observed in used products that are rejected due to the economic impracticality of repair.
In everyday life, a mini-machine is used to process various parts. For example, sharpening a screwdriver, removing rust or scale. Over time, not just wear of the abrasive surface occurs, but a significant change in its geometry.
If the master is faced with the task of sharpening the ax as competently as possible, systematically, with his own hands, then it is necessary to purchase another wheel for these purposes. And use it only for this work, especially since changing the abrasive on the sharpener takes a couple of minutes.
To prevent overheating of the metal, the mini-machine motor shaft speed is selected to a minimum.
The position of the blade during the process of sharpening the ax is towards the rotation of the circle. Another direction (in the direction) will only cause increased wear of the metal, but will not give the desired result. In addition, control over the condition of the cutting edge will become significantly more difficult.
During the entire sharpening time, it is necessary to maintain a constant angle between the ax handle and the abrasive of 45º.
The cutting edge must constantly move along the surface of the circle. Gradually, slowly and carefully. In this case, we must not forget about periodically cooling the chamfer by immersing this part of the ax in water.
If it is necessary to give the blade a special sharpness, it is sharpened manually with a stone containing an abrasive of the smallest fractions (grinding). In this case, you need to wet it, not the metal of the axe.
Common mistakes when sharpening an ax
- Sharpening an ax using an angle grinder is not the best solution, although the time saving is obvious. There are several reasons. Firstly, it is difficult to center the grinder and keep its position constant if you hold the machine in your hand. This means that you will need a machine to fix it, since the other one will have an ax. Secondly, high tool speeds. What this leads to has already been said.
- Trying to sharpen an ax on a worn-out sharpener. Even if it turns on, the circle rotates and rough processing of the metal can be done, it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve a chamfer on the blade at the required angle. In fact, it’s a waste of time if the goal is not just to sharpen the ax, but to sharpen it competently, according to all the rules.
The information is comprehensive, and the author hopes that the reader understands the difference between a sharp ax and a well-sharpened one.
If all of the above recommendations are followed, the quality of work is guaranteed.
Source: https://i-perf.ru/bolgarka/zatochka-topora-bolgarkoj.html
Principles of sharpening an ax at home
One of the first tools made by primitive man was the axe. Over time, only the material from which it was made changed. The main condition for his work was the sharpness of the blade, and, accordingly, the sharpening of the ax.
Design and types of axes
All types of tools consist of the following parts:
- blade made of steel with a butt on the opposite side, made of high quality material
- an ax made of wood or plastic;
- system for attaching the handle to the blade, wedges and staples.
According to their purpose they are classified into the following types:
- Carpentry tool for universal use. Used for woodworking, can be used for cutting bushes and preparing firewood.
- Cleavers. It is a tool with a heavy blade and a long handle. It is used for chopping firewood of any size; the special shape does not get stuck in the body of the tree.
- For cutting down trees. It weighs no more than 2 kg and is used for harvesting wood and removing knots from the trunk.
- Tourist. It is a lightweight tool used for cutting small branches and harvesting dead wood, as well as tent pegs.
- Multifunctional use. Used for roofing and construction work.
In addition to the main types, auxiliary ones are also distinguished. These include firemen, for chopping meat, as well as axes used in historical reconstructions.
Do I need to sharpen the cleaver?
Sharpening of the cleaver is done extremely rarely. This need arises when notches appear on the tip as a result of damage, as well as wear of the tool edge. Thanks to the massiveness of the blade, the cleaver easily penetrates the body of wood of any size. In this regard, the working part is sometimes corrected by removing burrs, nicks and dents.
The main parameters of proper sharpening
To select a method for editing a blade, it is necessary to clarify the types of work that will be performed:
- Straight. This method is used for rough work, chopping wood, and also cutting down trees.
- The oval shape is used for precision wood processing and is considered a universal method.
- The razor form is used for highly specialized tools.
Sharpening angle options
Before processing the blade, it is recommended to make a template for the correct sharpening angle. To make a sample you need:
- apply markings on a piece of hard material;
- using metal scissors, cut out the correct shape;
- Place the template on the edge and mark the areas to be edited on the blade.
Based on the GOST standard, the sharpening angle of the ax should be 45° for carpentry work, and up to 30° for construction work. Moreover, these parameters are not considered rigid; they can be changed.
The sharpness of the blade is affected by the sharpening angle of the axe; the lower its value, the sharper the tool. Excessive sharpening can lead to accelerated dulling, as well as getting stuck in the wood mass when chopping firewood.
When choosing a sharpening angle, it is necessary to take into account the properties of certain types of trees.
Chamfer width
The distance from the cutting part of the ax to its side surface is called the chamfer width. The service life of the tool, as well as the sharpness of the blade, depend on the value of the parameter. Bevel wear can cause the tree to bounce off the tree trunk. To process the working part and maintain the ax in working condition, the double descent method is used. The first angle is 15°; further sharpening is carried out depending on the purpose.
Sharpening methods
There are two main ways to sharpen an ax:
- manual method;
- electrically driven devices.
When choosing parameters, consider the following:
- wood hardness;
- humidity level;
- purpose of processing;
- the quality of the steel from which the ax is made.
Bulgarian
To sharpen with a grinder you should:
- Buy a special disc for sharpening. In this case, it is prohibited to use a cutting wheel.
- To secure the grinding wheel, it is necessary to remove the casing and use special nuts for tightening.
- Place the grinder in a vice and securely fasten it.
- Carry out work using personal protective equipment.
This tool can process the working surfaces of axes made of high quality steel. The disadvantage is the lack of adjustment of the speed of rotation of the circle, as a result of which the edge overheats and changes in the characteristics of the metal.
Bruskom
You can sharpen an ax using emery if you have the following materials and equipment:
- metal brushes;
- sandpaper with different abrasives;
- personal protective equipment;
- felt cloth and polishing paste;
- a workbench with a bench vice;
- a file with a large notch;
- emery stone;
- devices for measuring angle and flatness;
- lubricants and wax.
When sharpening, observe the following order:
- Using a wire brush, remove traces of rust and dirt from the working part of the ax.
- Use sandpaper to sand the blade on both sides.
- Using polish and felt cloth, polish the tool blade on both sides.
- Secure the back of the ax in a vice. In this case, the cutting edge must be free.
- Using a file with a large notch, process the edge on both sides, performing reverse movements with the master from the shoulder.
- Use a brush to clean off any metal shavings.
- Using an abrasive stone treated with wax and water, straighten the blade.
- Upon completion of work, apply rust protection to the metal surface.
On the grinding machine
To properly sharpen an ax, you need to prepare the following tool:
- a machine with two sanding wheels with abrasives of different sizes;
- finishing paste;
- marker;
- Remedies;
- angle measuring tool.
The work is performed in the following sequence:
- Place the machine on a flat surface.
- Visually check the grinding wheels for defects. If necessary, correct the surface.
- Secure the blade, while the rotation of the circle should be towards the ax.
- Lowering the working edge to the emery stone, set the sharpening angle.
- Processing is carried out until the burrs and nicks on the edge of the ax are completely removed.
- Precise editing is carried out using a wheel with fine abrasive. In this case, ideal smoothness of the cutting part is achieved.
- After removing the tool from the mount, polish the blade with finishing paste.
- Upon completion of work, carry out anti-rust treatment.
Sharpening an ax on a grinding machine
File
To sharpen an ax you must do the following:
- Protect your hands with gloves.
- Secure the metal part in a vice or other device.
- Perform the first processing using a file with a large notch.
- For precise sharpening, use a finely cut tool until a burr appears on the back side.
- Turning the blade over, repeat the manipulations on the other side of the working edge.
Tool
The following devices are used to process the metal part of the ax:
- a file with a fine notch;
- abrasive block;
- angle grinder;
- sharpening machine with two wheels on one axis.
How to sharpen an ax correctly
When sharpening an ax with your own hands at home, consider:
- level of wood hardness, which depends on the type of wood;
- humidity indicator;
- types of jobs;
- the type of steel from which the working part was made.
The master is recommended to use the double release method. In this case, initially an angle of 15° is achieved on the working part. During further processing of the cutting edge, an angle of at least 25° is made. This sharpening allows you to obtain a tool for precision carpentry work, as well as cutting small branches and firewood. The cleaver is edited as it becomes dull with a simple file with a fine notch.
Common mistakes
As a result of editing the metal part of the ax, some errors may occur, for example:
- When working on an electrically driven grinding machine, the metal sometimes overheats. This phenomenon leads to a decrease in the strength characteristics of the material. To avoid heating, it is necessary to moisten the sanding wheel with water during processing.
- If you do not secure the grinder, the wheel may break. Thus, the angle is not maintained. The blade will be damaged; the thickness will not be the same everywhere.
- Using an uneven abrasive wheel will damage the blade and sometimes cause the sandpaper to break during use.
The operation of processing the working edge of a tool is dangerous. It is necessary to observe safety measures and use personal protective equipment.
Principles of sharpening an ax at home Link to main publication
Source: https://metalloy.ru/obrabotka/zatochka/topora
How to Sharpen an Ax with a Grinder
How to properly sharpen an ax on your own - step-by-step instructions
} myth Carpenter's tools are used not only for chopping firewood, but also for trimming, partial removal of wood and a number of other technological operations. Therefore, sharpening an ax is a somewhat vague concept. If it is needed for a specific purpose, then we are not talking about the sharpness of the cutting edge, but about its correct processing. We won’t figure out how to properly sharpen an ax without anyone’s help, on our own.
The procedure for sharpening an ax with your own hands
Chamfer is the beveled part of the blade that ends at the cutting edge. The efficiency of the operations performed by the ax, and of course the productivity, directly depends on its width.
There are descriptions of old ways to change this parameter. For example, restoring the width to its original value, which gradually decreases due to metal wear. But in such situations, the tool had to be taken to the forge, where it was “drawn back.”
DIY sharpening technology
At home, it is advisable to practice the so-called “double descent” technique. It’s not difficult to implement it at home, so you don’t need the services of a metalworking specialist. The essence of the process is the fact that the initial angle that is given to the chamfer is selected at 15º. After this initial sharpening of the ax, the cutting edge is formed. However, to obtain a sharp blade, the value of angle β changes.
How to make an ax (part 1). How to sharpen an ax with a grinder (angle grinder)
This is the first part of the video about how I tried to restore my old Soviet ax . I don't have a big one.
How much depends on the specific use of the tool. For an axe, the use of which is limited to household work, the average parameter is already indicated - 25.
How to Sharpen an Ax with a Grinder - Based
How to properly sharpen an ax on your own - step-by-step instructions
} myth Carpenter's tools are used not only for chopping firewood, but also for trimming, partial removal of wood and a number of other technological operations.
Therefore, sharpening an ax is a somewhat vague concept. If it is needed for a specific purpose, then we are not talking about the sharpness of the cutting edge, but about its correct processing.
We won’t figure out how to properly sharpen an ax without anyone’s help, on our own.
How to sharpen an ax: types of product, rules and features of the process
Carpentry work requires high-quality preparation of tools. Having figured out the intricacies of the process, how to sharpen an ax correctly at home, you can do without the involvement of specialists and ensure effective, safe use.
Design and types of product
Universal ax
When faced with the need to cut or trim wood, you will need to choose the right tool. Axes are widely used for rough processing of wood. The device of the product consists of a metal blade, a wooden or plastic (impact-resistant) handle and a fastening wedge.
There are several main types of instruments:
- Universal. The tool has a wide, straight chopping part, often with a rounded blade. Performing a certain type of sharpening allows you to use the ax for various carpentry and joinery works.
- Multifunctional. The product is equipped with additional options. The reverse side of the blade is made in the form of a pickaxe, hammer, or nail puller. Used for small volumes of work using additional tools.
- Lumberjack. The instrument is massive. Standard products weigh more than 2 kg, lightweight options - 1-1.5 kg. Used for felling trees.
- Tourist. The compact product is fully suitable for its intended purpose. The tool is optimal for use on hiking trips, thanks to its light weight and high quality steel.
- Cleaver. The blade of the product is made in the shape of a wedge, which prevents the possibility of the tool getting stuck in the wood. The powerful long handle increases the impact force when performing work. Used when cutting massive logs.
Work efficiency largely depends on the quality of the blade steel. The marking indicates the degree of strength and impurity content. High performance characteristics of the metal correspond to the “A” marking. Frequent loss of blade sharpness during work will require knowledge of how to properly sharpen an ax in order to ensure regular maintenance.
A blunt ax is dangerous to use and can lead to injury and harm during work. The level of productivity decreases significantly when the blade slips, increasing the need for labor.
Options for ax sharpening angles
The sharpness of an ax blade is determined by two main indicators: the sharpening angle and the width of the chamfers. The choice of the optimal sharpening angle is directly related to a certain type of work. Paring logs requires a sharp angle of up to 20 degrees.
Chopping solid wood requires selecting a sharpening angle depending on the degree of hardness of the material. The higher the indicator, the more the obtuse sharpening angle increases. Processing hard wood will require regular sharpening of the tool.
Universal work is carried out when an angle of 25-30 degrees is reached. More precise processes in the form of creating blanks and minor furniture repairs are carried out at a sharpening angle of 15-20 degrees.
Ax chamfer width
The size of the chamfer determines the distance from the axis of the blade to the base of the ax plane. Masters call this parameter descents. Properly selected indicators make it easy to keep the blade sharp and ensure good performance of the tool.
The process of changing the width of the chamfers is quite labor-intensive. You will need to remove excess or deformed metal from the ax blade. New parameters make the product lighter, but suitable for use.
Branded axes do not require chamfer changes, but are more expensive. Correction of ax bevels is quite common when there are impurities in the blade material, which leads to a decrease in strength. Runs are usually made at different angles of 15 and 25 degrees on each side, which avoids deterioration in work efficiency due to low quality steel.
How to sharpen an ax using an electric sharpener
Sharpening an ax with an electric sharpener
Sharpening can be done manually or using various sanding machines. An electric sharpener is an installation with an abrasive wheel that is capable of high circulation speed. Before sharpening an ax with a grinder, you should prepare additional tools: a sharpening stone, finishing paste, an element for straightening a wheel, a protractor and protective equipment.
Work must be carried out in full compliance with safety standards, wearing glasses and gloves:
- The electric sharpening machine is installed on a flat surface.
- Defects on the abrasive wheel are eliminated.
- The product is securely fastened.
- The blade is set at the desired sharpening angle.
- The process is repeated until the required cut level.
- A finishing paste is applied to polish the blade.
- Treatment of the blade surface with a composition to protect against corrosion.
The abrasive wheel is subject to heating when sharpening, so periodic wetting of the surface and blade of the ax with water will be required. It is also important to direct the blade when sharpening towards the rotation of the sharpening wheel.
Craftsmen use several types of sharpening stones. By varying their grain size you can achieve special sharpness.
It is advisable to use sandpaper when the ax is used at a high level.
How to sharpen an ax by hand using sandpaper
You can sharpen an ax without using special equipment. The work is carried out using an abrasive stone, which is fixed between the squares. The blade is first cleaned of rust, sanded with coarse and fine sandpaper, and polished. Next, preliminary sharpening is carried out with a bastard file.
The surface of the abrasive should be treated with liquid. The ax blade makes circular movements, alternately performing operations on both sides of the blade. At the final stage, the blade is treated to protect it from rust. During the work, it is recommended to systematically check the sharpening angle.
Sharpening with an electric sharpener is best done with special attention, at low speed and at a leisurely pace. Overheating of steel negatively affects the characteristics of the material, making the texture hard and brittle. It is important not to neglect protective equipment in accordance with safety regulations. Proper execution of the ax sharpening process will increase the service life of the tool and increase the efficiency of work.
Source: https://DerevoDoska.ru/kak-zatochit-topor/
How to sharpen an ax yourself by hand and with an electric sharpener
01.02.2019
Despite the emergence of modern models of axes powered by electricity and batteries, the familiar cleaver, consisting of a handle and a metal blade tightly attached to it, still does not lose its relevance.
This is an indispensable household assistant in private households or at dachas - it can be used not only for chopping firewood, but also for hewing and other technological operations. To ensure that the tool does not lose its functionality, the ax needs to be sharpened periodically, which should be done with all responsibility.
It is important not only to make the edge cutting, but also to process it correctly - only in this case will the chopping tool cope with the tasks assigned to it.
Methods for sharpening an ax
You can sharpen an ax in several ways, creating points and angles of different shapes. The correct choice will depend on the following parameters:
- The type of wood to be worked with: hardness, knottiness, arrangement of fibers, their sizes, rigidity, twist.
- Degree of moisture content of wood - to split raw materials, the blade must go into it as deeply as possible.
- Specifics of upcoming work. Thus, a wood splitting cleaver, if a log is to be trimmed, should have a large sharpening angle, whereas when harvesting firewood, the emphasis will be on the tilt of the tool.
- The type of metal, the composition of the steel - if it has increased strength, sharpening the ax will be more difficult, but the sharpness will remain longer.
- The purpose of the tool is universal, hunting, tourist, highly specialized.
It is important not to forget about the width of the chamfer: it should be sufficient so that the blade easily and deeply enters the tree and does not bounce off it.
You can sharpen an ax manually, in the usual mechanical way, using special whetstones, sharpening stones or a band file. Electric sharpening, performed on a specialized machine, will help speed up the process.
At home, this method is not readily available: even if you have the equipment, not everyone will be able to work with it without prior training. The process requires the use of safety glasses, a perfectly flat surface, and increased attention from the technician, as there is a high risk of injury.
The method is used if you need to perform a large amount of work with the tool, otherwise it is better to use the manual method, which makes it quite easy to achieve the correct sharpening angle of the ax.
Correct sharpening parameters
To choose the right sharpening of an ax, it is worth starting from the work that will be performed by the tool. There are different types:
- Straight – used for cleavers and tools designed for rough wood processing: splitting, trimming.
- Oval - suitable for sharpening axes, considered universal, applicable for removing the top layer from wood, leveling the surface and many other works.
- Razor - designed for processing products designed to perform highly specialized tasks (for example, butchers, fire models).
To solve various household problems, it is better to sharpen an ax using the second method.
Making a template
To perform all manipulations at the correct angle, you should first make a tin template. It is applied to the blade to understand what and where to correct, how to sharpen the ax correctly. To create a sample you will need:
- take a piece of tin or other material and make appropriate markings on it;
- Using metal scissors, cut out a shape with a correctly marked angle.
Next, the template is applied to the blade being processed, the angle of deviation from the desired result is measured, and the markings are applied with a marker.
Sharpening angle
According to GOST, the sharpening angle for carpenter's axes is 35°, for construction axes - from 20 to 30 degrees. These parameters are average and recommended, but in certain cases the standards can be changed.
The sharpening angle affects the sharpness of the blade: the smaller it is, the higher this parameter. Sharpness, in turn, depends on the amount of effort put into the work process. It is important to know that a sharpened blade will become dull faster and there is a possibility that it will get stuck in the wood.
That is why the sharpening angle of a carpenter's or carpenter's ax suitable for chopping logs can be within 35-40°, while for a tool suitable for cutting down trees it should not exceed 25-30°, and for a tool aimed at trimming pillars , – 20°.
When choosing the right parameter, it is important to take into account the mechanical properties of the wood itself: brittle spruce requires less bevel; compacted and thick acacia will require a higher value.
If there is a question about fully restoring the functionality of the tool, it is best to resolve it by contacting a professional technician.
Features of the process taking into account the chosen method
It is not enough to know how to sharpen an ax at home; it is also extremely important to follow safety precautions during the process. You should prepare protective equipment, such as glasses or a shield, a respirator (if working with an electric sharpener), and gloves. It is imperative to free the work area from all unnecessary things and limit the entry of strangers, especially children, into the room where manipulations will be carried out.
Electric sharpener
The device is a machine with an electric drive and an abrasive wheel. To sharpen an ax you will need:
- double-sided hand sharpener;
- polishing paste;
- personal protective equipment;
- marker;
- goniometer.
Before you start working on a sharpening machine, you need to use protective equipment, such as gloves and goggles, and then follow the established procedure:
- Finish the chamfer with a marker.
- Secure the chopping tool with special fasteners.
- Bring the tip to the grinding wheel, first select the required sharpening angle using the protractor.
- Turn on the equipment and work with the chamfer until the cracks completely disappear.
- Level the work surface using a hand sharpener.
- Finish and polish the tool.
- Remove the ax from the mount, coat the machine circles and the bevel of the tip with polishing paste.
- Apply anti-corrosion liquid to the blade.
If you just need to change the sharpening angle, start work from the 4th point.
During the process, it is recommended to moisten the abrasive and the blade itself with oil or water to prevent overheating of the metal.
Correct placement of the ax We begin to sharpen The abrasive wheel, if necessary, should be brought to a smooth surface using a sharpening stone We continue to work without overheating the ax
Manually
You can achieve excellent tool sharpness without expensive equipment by sharpening it manually. The easiest way is to fix the ax in any convenient way, set the abrasive wheel at the right angle, and run the blade horizontally along the sharpener the required number of times. You can use the second method; you will need the following tools and accessories for sharpening:
- directly the sharpening stone;
- a wire brush to remove fine dust;
- rust remover;
- polishing paste;
- wax;
- felt fabric;
- clamp or vice;
- a file with a large notch;
- ruler;
- machine oil.
Work algorithm:
- Remove rust from the blade, if any.
- Sand it with sandpaper, sticking to one direction.
- Repeat step 2 with less hard sandpaper.
- Apply polishing paste.
- Fix the ax; the handle should be on the working surface.
- Sharpen the blade with a file at an angle of 25° using translational movements.
- Get rid of metal dust.
- Treat the whetstone with liquid and walk along the blade until it reaches the desired sharpness.
Upon completion of all work, the ax sharpened with a bar must be processed: lubricate the metal part with oil to prevent corrosion.
Using a hog file, file the blade. Place the ax on its side on the work table and press it against the table surface. Work the blade evenly on one side until a metal burr appears on the other. Now you can turn the ax over to the other side and continue working. Apply a protective coating
Features of work taking into account the type of ax
Based on the specifics of the work performed, the tool sharpening technique also differs:
- Tourist axes are compact, lightweight products; they do not require much effort in sharpening, since they are not faced with global tasks such as felling trees. All actions are performed manually using bars of different grain sizes. For tourist and hunting models, a sharpening angle of 20° is recommended.
- The carpenter's specimen with a straight chopping part is the most widely used type. There are also carpentry models in which the blade is slightly rounded. These 2 axes are quite similar in appearance, but their areas of application are different, so they should also be sharpened differently. This process is labor-intensive, so it is better to use electric tools - a belt sander, a sharpening machine.
- The blades of the cleavers resemble a wedge, in which the working part is narrowed and thickened. Such axes are used for splitting large logs. The peculiarity of their structure allows the blade not to get stuck in the tree. Many users do not know that cleavers also require sharpening, the angle of which should be strictly in the range of 40-50 degrees. The ideal option is to leave the blade “floating”, that is, its middle is sharper than the ends.
Ideal angle values can only be achieved with a power machine. Due to its high cost, the purchase of equipment will be economically feasible only if it is necessary to regularly sharpen a large number of tools.
How to sharpen an ax with a grinder video
Such an indispensable tool in the household must not only be sharp, but also properly sharpened. The process of removing several layers of metal is not particularly difficult and can be done independently. There are several ways to do this job.
However, the difficulty still exists and lies in how to maintain the sharpening angle. How to properly sharpen an ax depends on the further use of this working tool. We have previously talked about how to properly sharpen drills at home.
Types of axes
the part of the ax on the characteristics of which the service life and ease of use depend - the blade. The metal part is made of solid steel. The blade is hardened , which increases cutting properties. The remaining metal remains softer than at the edge itself. This prevents chipping when struck with a strong axe.
An ax is a universal tool. There are varieties to perform different tasks. Main types:
- Cleaver . A tool for splitting firewood into smaller pieces. The wide blade is shaped like a wedge. Its chopping part is thicker than other types and tapered, which is important to prevent it from getting stuck.
- For felling trees and cutting large branches. Has a long handle.
- Plotnitsky. The tool is designed for processing wood species and performing a variety of construction work. The blade is thin and sharp.
- Kitchen.
Purpose: chopping meat. Has a wide blade.
The ax requires careful and attentive treatment. In order for it to serve for a long time, its working blade must be kept sharp. This ensures regular sharpening, which can be done either manually or using power tools.
The sharpening angle depends on the application. For a cleaver, a blunter one will be suitable, which will ensure that the wood is split without getting stuck in it. A carpenter and butcher will need a sharpened blade edge.
But dull axes also need straightening, leveling surfaces damaged due to chips.
Axes used for cutting meat and bones have a wide blade. Knowledge of how to properly sharpen a butcher's ax is specific. The blade itself has a slight rounding and the edge is smooth. The sharpening angle is the same as for knives. Sharpening in several stages ends with polishing.
Sharpening
The process consists of removing the necessary layer of metal from the working part of the blade to obtain a sharp edge. The processed material is high quality tool steel containing a high percentage of carbon, hardened.
Less quality and, accordingly, cheaper material contains a large number of impurities.
But any high-quality steel, when working with strong impacts on the surface, does not prevent the blade from losing its sharpness and the work becoming less productive and uncomfortable.
Tools for sharpening axes used in private households are simple - a whetstone , sandpaper or an electric machine. This work can be done independently. The difficulty in how to properly sharpen an ax at home lies in obtaining the required angle at which to sharpen.
For the universal type, the recommended angle is from 20 to 30°, and for sharp ones – 35-40°.
During the process, you need to take short breaks, otherwise overheating can lead to softening of the steel and the edge will wear out much more in the future. A precautionary measure would be to periodically pour cold temperature water over the treated area.
When using electric tools, rotation is accompanied by beating, which causes the formation of irregularities. To make them visible, before sharpening the surface of the part being processed is painted with a marker. When monitoring the work performed, its traces may remain on the convex parts, which indicates the need for further refinement.
For sharpening axes, abrasives of different grain sizes are used. Its degree is gradually reduced. coarse are used , and at the end, for final finishing, the finest grains are used.
It is more convenient to sharpen by removing the blade from the handle on which it is mounted. This makes it possible to move it in different directions. Angle control is carried out using a protractor or template.
It is manufactured and used as follows:
- prepare a small piece of tin;
- determine the sharpening angle;
- make a cutout in the future stencil;
- attach it to the edge of the blade and determine the discrepancy;
- After each adjustment, carry out control.
An important parameter is chamfer . The width of this parameter affects performance. If the size is sufficient, the ax can easily cut into wood without bouncing off it.
The cutting edges can have different configurations:
- Oval. Used for rough work.
- Wedge-shaped. Its other name is straight. Universal, allowing you to perform different jobs. It has proven itself well when working with trees with different characteristics.
- Razor. Used for fine work - carving, fitting.
When preparing firewood and clearing an area of trees, you should understand how to properly sharpen an ax for chopping. When performing ordinary economic purposes, it is advisable to use a wedge-shaped shape. When working with green wood, the angle is recommended to be 20°, and for dry wood – 30°.
Sharpening by hand
A recommendation on how to properly sharpen an ax using sandpaper is to switch the material from large to small grain sizes. A simple way is to use a whetstone, which is sold in hardware stores. Its rounded shape allows you to hold it comfortably in your hand, and its bend makes it possible to maintain the required angle. A band is also used for manual sharpening . The work will go faster and you will have to put in less effort.
an abrasive is effective . It is installed at the selected angle between wooden angles. The angle is calculated from the well-known geometry formulas about a right triangle, where the bar itself is considered the hypotenuse, and the leg is the surface of one of the angles. The blade is moved along the abrasive circle, adhering to a horizontal plane.
Sharpening by electric machine
part of the electric machine is an abrasive wheel with a high rotation speed. The process of working on it consists of the following stages:
- Place the power tool on a stable surface.
- Make sure there are no irregularities on the sharpener. If there are any, run a correction stone over the surface of the grinding wheel.
- Paint over the area where the blade is processed with a marker.
- Secure the ax so that the circle rotates towards you.
- Using a protractor, set the sharpening angle and secure it with a special nut.
- Bring the blade closer to the abrasive.
- Manually perform a couple of revolutions of the circle directed towards yourself.
- Check the section shaded with a marker. If the tilt is correct, then all the paint will be erased. At a smaller angle, only the end of the blade will be erased, and at a larger angle, the area closer to the handle will be erased.
- Repeat these steps until the selected angle is reached.
- Sharpen the blade by regularly turning it on different sides to ensure uniformity.
- Apply finishing paste to the circle and polish the sharpened surface of the axe.
- Apply anti-rust agent to the metal part of the tool.
When working, do not forget to periodically wet the surface to be treated with cold water to avoid overheating.
The grinding machine, which everyone knows as an angle grinder, has a higher rotation speed. Before work, you should read the instructions, which indicate how to properly sharpen an ax with a grinder. This method is more dangerous and when using it, you should carefully follow all recommendations.
You should wear safety glasses when working with electrical machines.
How to sharpen an ax correctly: video
Carpentry work requires high-quality preparation of tools. Having figured out the intricacies of the process, how to sharpen an ax correctly at home, you can do without the involvement of specialists and ensure effective, safe use.
Sharpening an ax: how to properly sharpen, sharpen, sharpening angle, sharpen with your own hands, at home, for cutting trees
The condition of the working tool determines the quality and efficiency of its use. In this regard, the ax places increased demands, since the specifics of its use involve high loads on the cutting edge.
It produces not cutting, but chopping movements, and constant impact quickly destroys the sharpening.
However, if the cutting edge is formed correctly, taking into account the specifics of the work and the characteristics of the material being processed, the period of effective work between sharpenings can be significantly increased. Let's consider this issue in more detail.
What determines the method of sharpening an ax?
Proper sharpening of an ax
“I sharpened my ax with firebrands and the yard is full of firebrands” - this is the statement that speaks best about the importance of properly sharpening this device.
The method of sharpening an ax is determined by the following factors:
- Density and hardness of the wood that is planned to be processed.
- The quality and condition of the processed material. An abundance of knots, twisted and dense wood requires a sharper cutting edge.
- Wood moisture level. Dry wood is tougher and puts more stress on the cutting edge of the tool, while wet wood is soft and does not dull the blade too much.
- Specifics of the work performed. Cutting wood in the transverse direction uses up the cutting edge more than trimming it tangentially.
- Metal grade. The harder the steel, the more difficult it is to sharpen, but the longer the serviceability of the cutting edge.
Of all the above factors, the main one is the grade of the metal, since the ability of the steel to hold an edge, withstand work loads and not break, forming nicks and gouges on the blade, depends on it.
How to sharpen it yourself?
Sharpening an ax is the process of forming a cutting edge. It occurs at the line of connection between two chamfers cut on both sides of the blade at the same angle.
In order to ensure identical chamfers, uniform and symmetrical sharpening, you will first need to make a template, which is usually cut from a piece of tin using scissors.
Before starting work, the template is applied to the blade, the amount of work is assessed and the lines delimiting the sharpening area are marked with a marker. This must be done on both sides of the blade.
In addition, you need to prepare a tool that can be used:
- Electric sharpener.
- Bulgarian.
- Sandpaper.
- Abrasive block.
It is most convenient to use an electric sharpener, but in the absence of anything you have to use what you have. An experienced master can achieve good results with any device; the main factor here is the availability of appropriate skills. Before starting the process, it is recommended to study special drawings.
Source: https://2lzz.ru/stolyarnyj-instrument/kak-pravilno-zatochit-topor
Proper sharpening of an ax with your own hands - what is a chamfer?
A chamfer is a beveled section of a blade, the width of which determines the performance of the tool. A worn chamfer leads to difficulties during the work process - the ax can simply bounce off the wood. Previously, the width of the chamfer was changed by a blacksmith using the so-called “pull”. Nowadays, you won’t find such specialists during the day, so people are coming up with simpler methods.
For example, the most popular way to keep the chamfer in working order is to sharpen the ax with a double release . That is, they first sharpen the first angle by 15° to form a deep chamfer, and then grind the blade directly at the degree required for work. Please note that the thinner the blade, the faster it will become dull.
How to sharpen an ax correctly - standard mistakes
Mistakes when sharpening an ax with your own hands are often made not so much due to lack of skill as due to simple inattention and haste. By approaching the matter without these “fellow travelers”, you will get the desired result.
There is a great temptation to use an electric sharpener for sharpening all types of axes - it saves time, and the result at first glance may please you. But this is only at first glance - with such fast sharpening, there is a high probability of overheating of the metal, which radically changes its characteristics. When overheated, the internal pressure of steel increases, it becomes very hard and very brittle. After just an hour of work, you will have to take up sharpening again - the fragile blade will shatter into small pieces upon impact.
Some craftsmen generally consider it right to sharpen an ax with a grinder - this, of course, is beautiful, sparks fly, and you will look very courageous with a grinder and an ax, but it is better not to combine these two tools in this way for the reason stated above.
Therefore, if you stand behind a sharpener, then choose the lowest speeds, if possible, or reduce the runout of the sharpening abrasive to a minimum. The surface of the circle must be perfectly flat, so it is best to use a separate circle for this task.
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During sharpening, the ax should be held with the blade facing the rotation, while the butt should be at an angle of 45° to the wheel. Smoothly move the blade along the rotating surface to achieve a perfect bevel. To prevent overheating, sharpen on a water-cooled tool, or, at a minimum, constantly immerse the ax under running cool water.
To chop wood, you need a sharp ax. The ax should be sharpened regularly as the cleaver loses its sharpness. Since a tool can become dull during work, it is not always possible to take it to a workshop for sharpening or call a sharpener on site.
A dull ax is extremely dangerous for the person using it. It can slip off logs or logs, putting a person at risk of serious injury. When working with a dull tool, you need to apply much more force than when using a properly sharpened one.
Source: https://MyTooling.ru/instrumenty/kak-natochit-topor-bolgarkoj-video