How to Galvanize a Car with a Battery - Metals and Their Processing

Do-it-yourself galvanizing of a car body with a battery – This device with batteries will protect your car from corrosion

The master showed how to make a very simple but at the same time very effective device for combating corrosion on a car. The device is so simple that even a child can make it. To make it, we will need ordinary salt batteries, and it should be written on them that these are salt batteries. These are usually the cheapest batteries.

Alkaline batteries are not suitable for us, since their body is not made of zinc, but these ones have a body made of 99.9 percent pure zinc.

We take one battery and strip its body of the insulating film. To do this, simply cut the film. You will need a piece of wire. We wrap this wire around the battery, but to ensure that the wire holds well, we wrap it with a regular rubber band.

We attach an electric clothespin to the other end. Then you will need regular cotton pads. We take one disk, wrap it around the battery and secure it with an elastic band. The result was a device to protect cars from metal corrosion.

Next, we take regular soldering acid orthophosphoric acid and moisten the cotton wool that we attached to the batteries. Well, that's all guys, the device is ready. All that remains is to connect it to the car battery.

How to remove rust and galvanize a car body with a battery

We connect the electrical clothespin of the device to the positive terminal of the battery and now we can remove rust, not just remove it, but even galvanize the metal.

A typical source of corrosion on a car's wheel arch. We won’t even clean this rust, we will immediately treat this place with the device. We simply press the moistened cotton wool to the place of corrosion, the rust itself will go away, and the metal that was rusty will be covered with a layer of zinc.

You just need to press and hold for a few minutes. The zinc from the battery body will transfer to the metal on the car body and this place will no longer rust in the future.

You can see how the rust is almost all gone. After galvanizing, there was no trace of rust left, only a small thin layer of zinc appeared. This is clearly visible - it has a silver color.

Neutralize the acid

After the rusty area has been treated with a manual galvanizer, the effect of the acid must be neutralized. For this we need regular baking soda. Pour a little into a glass, dilute with water and the composition for neutralizing the action of the acid is ready. We simply soak a cotton pad in this solution and treat the area that we have galvanized. Look how it sizzles - this is the acid we used as an electrolyte being neutralized.

Varnish painting

Budget for painting this place with regular nail polish. Choose the varnish to match the color of your car. There will be the cheapest pencil for touching up chips on a car.

This was such a budget renovation. From a distance of two meters this place is almost invisible, and most importantly, it will not rust anymore.

If you liked my method of fighting rust, please like it.

izobreteniya.net

The simplest and most effective method of galvanizing a car

The “home” method of galvanizing metal allows you to prevent the formation of corrosion on the car body and thereby reduce service costs. Galvanization can also be used for various metal products to further protect them from rust. It must be said right away that this method is very simple and does not require large financial costs.

Preparatory work

This method involves the use of phosphoric acid with zinc dissolved in it, and will also require zinc (salt) batteries. You can use both small finger batteries and large batteries - it all depends on the amount of work being done.

If you need to galvanize a large area, it is better to take large zinc batteries. First you need to print them out and remove all excess braiding. If desired, you can use only the battery case, removing the graphite rod and soot, but in principle you can leave the “insides” in place.

On the body of the “bare” battery, on one side you need to secure a cotton pad with an elastic band, and on the reverse side (also with an elastic band) - the power wire. You can use a car battery as a power source.

How does galvanizing of a surface occur?

The negative from the battery must be connected directly to the part of the body (or part) that you are going to galvanize. We connect the wire that goes to the zinc body of the battery to the positive terminal of the battery. Please note that the negative terminal should never be disconnected, because the desired effect will not be obtained.

Before starting galvanizing, it is advisable to clean the surface to be treated from traces of rust, if any. You need to take orthophosphoric acid with zinc dissolved in it into a syringe and soak a cotton pad that is placed on the battery body. After this, you just need to move the zinc battery over the entire area of the surface being treated.

The most important thing is not to stop. If you keep the battery in one place for a long time, then burns appear, and if you move the battery continuously over the surface, you get an even layer of zinc. You will see the result almost from the first seconds.

Although some call this method of galvanizing “artisanal,” it is truly a proven, simplest, and most importantly, effective way to combat corrosion. To learn how to properly perform galvanizing, watch the video.

Source: https://pkfst.ru/raznoe/ocinkovka-kuzova-avtomobilya-svoimi-rukami-batarejkoj-eto-ustrojstvo-s-batarejkami-zashhitit-vash-avtomobil-ot-korrozii.html

How to galvanize a car body with your own hands - Metals, equipment, instructions

13.08.2018

Metal corrosion is a common problem that every car owner faces. The car body is a sheet metal structure with a large number of welded joints that constantly conducts current. Iron and steel oxidize over time when exposed to water and oxygen, forming rust. Galvanization is considered the most effective method.

What is galvanizing

In case of severe damage, after an impact or chipping, the iron is exposed and interacts with air and moisture. This is how the initial source of corrosion is formed: as it spreads, it leads to the destruction of the metal.

Galvanizing, or galvanizing, is the coating of a flat metal surface with zinc protection.

The zinc layer also oxidizes in air, but at the same time forms a dense protective film that does not allow oxygen to react with the metal.

An alternative option is tinning and tin coating. This method is more expensive. In cases of serious body restoration, both tin and zinc are used: the first layer of tin smoothes out roughness on the metal coating, which is necessary when unevenness is formed when cleaning the body from a layer of rust.

Advantages and disadvantages

Galvanizing, despite its simplicity and reliability, has both advantages and disadvantages. Advantages:

the machine is reliably protected from rust;
The zinc layer is resistant to any weather conditions and can withstand significant
mechanical damage;
The corrosion protection time, based on the galvanizing method and operating conditions, is from 5 to 30 years.

Flaws:

a very expensive procedure that requires certain skills and special equipment;
galvanized body parts should not be harshly processed and cleaned;
Even under ideal operating conditions of the machine, the zinc layer is gradually destroyed.

Types of body galvanization

Specialists use several technological options for galvanizing of varying complexity of processing, cost and durability:

Hot (thermal). The operation is not available for garage repairs. The entire car body or only a certain part is lowered into a tank with a zinc alloy; during rental, a protective layer is applied on top. The most effective method of protection.
Cold galvanized. A budget and easy to implement option, but the least effective. It takes place in two stages: applying a chemical layer; coating with a composition that contains tiny particles of zinc.
Galvanic. The most common option. You can carry out the process yourself. A car part is lowered into a container with a special composition containing zinc. Under the influence of an electric discharge, the protective layer is fixed. An example is galvanized body washers.
Zinc metal. The sheet metal is treated with a coat of zinc-based epoxy paint with a secondary coating of rust inhibitor. The main advantage of this option is that the anti-corrosion properties are not lost during mechanical processing.

Types of body galvanization depend on the degree of processing of the machine:

full – the whole machine is galvanized;
partial - only some parts were galvanized.

How to determine whether a body is galvanized or not

Most modern car manufacturers - 98% - try to galvanize the car. The type of galvanization and the degree of coating are displayed in the technical passport of the vehicle. If you purchase a car from the secondary market with significant mileage, it is almost impossible to find out whether the body is galvanized or not.

To clarify this issue, an expensive operation is needed: testing the metal using special equipment, which is only available in specialized services.

Is it difficult to check this yourself?

It is impossible to visually determine whether a machine or part of it is galvanized. But there are a few points that will help you figure this out:

When purchasing a car, carefully inspect the body. 99% of the time you will find a couple of scratches. If the place where the paintwork was chipped simply darkened and there was no rust, the car or part of it was galvanized.
Use the vehicle's VIN code, which contains technical characteristics, availability of protection and application method.
Warranty card information. It says here about guarantees of anti-corrosion protection of the body. If a period of 5 to 10 years is indicated, this means cold galvanizing, 10-20 years - the galvanic method, more than 20 - the hot method.
If the documents indicate that the car is galvanized, but the cost of the car is low, perhaps we are talking about either partial processing or the cold method.

If the machine has full anti-corrosion protection, the technical documentation indicates “full galvanization”.

Production galvanizing

In 1986, the Audi 80 became the first production car with a completely galvanized body. Now every manufacturer strives to protect the most vulnerable parts of the car in one way or another. Thermal galvanization, which increases the cost of the machine, is carried out:

Audi;
VolksWagen;
Porsche;
Ford.

A budget option is galvanizing on class B cars from Mercedes Benz, Toyota, Mazda, BMW. Most Hyundai, Kia, and latest VAZ modifications are cold galvanized.

This means that after a year of intensive use, a full inspection of the bottom should be carried out and checked for early corrosion.

Full vehicle coverage is most often found on premium models, as it significantly affects the price.

How to galvanize a body yourself

At home, do-it-yourself galvanizing is possible in two ways: cold and galvanic. Technologies are different, the main attention is given to safety. The car or the selected part of the body will be processed quickly and efficiently if you adhere to certain rules:

All galvanizing operations should be carried out in rooms with good ventilation, preferably outside.
Use personal safety measures: protective suit, gloves, goggles, respirator.
Remember about the environment, because the material used is heavy metal and aggressive chemicals.

The galvanizing process begins with preparing the vehicle.

Removing the primary paintwork.
If there is corrosion under the paintwork layer, remove rust using polyrite.
Alignment and straightening of the body.
Alcohol degreasing of the surface.

Do not use chemicals to remove dirt, paint or rust.

Within 10 minutes after degreasing, galvanizing is carried out using one of the methods.

Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/kak-otsinkovat-kuzov-avtomobilya-svoimi-rukami/

Galvanizing the body: how to treat a Volkswagen or Skoda car with zinc or a battery with your own hands, the galvanic procedure and its types

Why and does zinc always protect?

Not everyone knows the reason why galvanized metal does not rust. Let's say more: the non-ferrous metal zinc (the chemical element Zn) has less resistance to oxidation and corrosion than the iron it protects. Zinc becomes a protector for it due to the existing difference in electrical potentials on the surface of the crystal lattices.

Galvanizing methods

This effect is called electrochemical corrosion, and it consists in the destruction of an active metal upon contact with a less active one, which receives additional ions and is reduced. If damage to the iron forms on the surface of a galvanized sheet, then the entire protective layer can melt, literally like snow in the spring. An active electrochemical process leads to accelerated oxidation of both metals.

Therefore, if a galvanized body has serious mechanical damage, it will rot much faster than one that is simply well painted.

This battery-powered device will protect your car from corrosion.

The master showed how to make a very simple but at the same time very effective device for combating corrosion on a car. The device is so simple that even a child can make it.

THIS IS INTERESTING: How to solder if it doesn’t Solder

To make it, we will need ordinary salt batteries, and it should be written on them that these are salt batteries. These are usually the cheapest batteries.

Alkaline batteries are not suitable for us, since their body is not made of zinc, but these ones have a body made of 99.9 percent pure zinc.

We attach an electric clothespin to the other end. Then you will need regular cotton pads. We take one disk, wrap it around the battery and secure it with an elastic band. The result was a device to protect cars from metal corrosion.

91

There was no movement of the electrode along the surface, this is its main mistake

I used zincari. Everything is fine.

Source: https://instanko.ru/ruchnoj/cinkovanie-kuzova.html

How to galvanize a car body with your own hands - Metalworker's Guide

The service life and reliability of a car depends 90% on the quality of its body. Therefore, when buying a car, knowledgeable people immediately evaluate this particular characteristic.

When buying used or economy cars, liquid zinc can come in handy. And it is quite possible to galvanize a car body at home.

All you need to give the body strength is some knowledge and tools.

Do-it-yourself galvanizing of the body is carried out in order to protect it from rust and the effects of chemical compounds, which are in abundance on the road. It is easier to carry out this operation once than to patch the body all the time.

Car manufacturers, as a rule, carry out this procedure only with the bottom of the body (usually only the bottom), as the most vulnerable point. Anodic protection is applied - a metal with a lower electrochemical potential compared to the main metal of the body.

Zinc is most popular due to its low cost and good chemical and physical properties.

Methods for treating surfaces with zinc

Today there are 3 main types of galvanizing:

Thermal, in which the body is lowered into the molten metal. Sometimes the same melt is applied to the finished metal sheet and sent for rolling. Porsche, Ford, and Volvo cars undergo similar treatment. Quite an effective way.
Cold, when finely dispersed zinc is applied to the body. More reliable than other methods. Often used for processing the bodies of budget cars.
Galvanic, in which the finished part is kept in a container filled with zinc electrolyte. Under current, zinc sticks to the metal very tightly. The technology is widespread among large Japanese and European car manufacturers.

The first option is unlikely to be suitable for galvanizing at home.

During cold galvanizing, the body is cleaned of dirt and rust and finely dispersed metal is sprayed over it. The process is similar to spray painting.

Do-it-yourself galvanic galvanization of the body

A simple way to process individual parts looks something like this:

Take a solution of zinc, sulfate or chloride. If this is not the case, you can prepare the solution yourself by dissolving the metal in hydrochloric or sulfuric acid. The ingredients can be found in stores that sell radio components. Zinc chloride is used as soldering acid. Auto parts stores sell sulfuric acid, which is often used as an electrolyte in acid batteries.
You will need an acid-resistant container into which the zinc is first placed, and then everything is carefully and without haste filled with acid. Approximate zinc content: 400 g per 1 liter of acid. It is important to perform this action outdoors, away from fires, because the reaction releases hydrogen. An easy way to tell if acid has developed is to throw in some more zinc. If there are no hydrogen bubbles, then the reaction is complete. A clear solution separates from the liquid precipitate.
The negative wire from the current source is connected to the part intended for galvanizing. Plus connects to zinc.
The part and zinc are placed in the solution, and the voltage is turned on. 12 volts from the battery and charger will be enough. Under the influence of current, the dissolved metal will settle on the parts, and a piece of metal will enrich the solution. It is important that the wire to which the zinc is connected does not come into contact with the solution! Because of this, a reaction is possible and the process will go wrong.
When the process proceeds correctly, a uniform gray layer is formed on the part. The main thing is that the process does not proceed very quickly, since the metal may darken or become friable. To avoid this, a current of no more than 1 A is supplied.
At the end of the process, the part is washed in a food solution or water. This is done to neutralize acid residues.

Galvanic galvanizing does not at all involve “bathing” the body in an electrolyte. Individual car parts are galvanized using this method. During preparation, dirt and rust are removed, and phosphoric acid or rust destroyer should not be used.

Next, the piece of zinc is wrapped in cloth, preferably several times. Metal can be obtained, for example, from a disassembled round battery - the cup is made of just the necessary metal.

The “plus” from the battery is connected to the cup, the “minus” remains on the machine’s ground. The wires are ideally connected with cigarette lighter clips, the main thing is that the fabric does not touch them.

A cup wrapped in a bandage is moistened with soldering acid or zinc chloride, and it is carefully moved over the workpiece. The metal will slowly settle on the surface.

At the end of the procedure, the galvanized area is washed with a solution of baking soda or water.

Source: https://ssk2121.com/kak-otsinkovat-kuzov-avtomobilya-svoimi-rukami/

Coating a car body with zinc at home. Galvanic method

The reliability and service life of any car depends 90 percent on a high-quality body. Therefore, when buying a car, this characteristic can be decisive, and all knowledgeable people immediately look at it.

But in a situation where you are purchasing a car that has already been in someone else’s hands or an economy option?

Do not despair, because it is quite possible to coat the body with zinc at home, with your own hands. This will require straight hands, some knowledge and tools, and a desire to give your car additional strength.

Why do you need a galvanized body?

Galvanization is carried out in order to protect the car body from corrosion and the effects of various chemical compounds found in excess on the road surface. It is much easier to carry out this operation once than to constantly patch the body.

Car manufacturers usually carry out this procedure only with the lower part of the body (most often limited to only the bottom), as the most vulnerable part of the car. To do this, anodic protection is applied - that is, a metal that has a lower electrochemical potential compared to the base metal of the case.

Zinc is the most popular due to its low cost and high chemical and physical properties.

What is galvanizing?

Three main types are used:

Thermal - the finished body is lowered into zinc melt. Sometimes the same melt is applied to the finished sheet of metal and sent for rolling. Cars from Ford , Volvo , Porsche and GM . Quite an effective method that reliably protects even after further processing.
Cold – finely dispersed zinc, similar to paint, is applied to the body of the car. Not very reliable, however, much cheaper than other types, often used for galvanizing budget cars.
Galvanic - the finished part is kept in a container filled with zinc electrolyte. Under the influence of current, the zinc firmly adheres to the metal of the body. This technology has become widespread among major European and Japanese automakers.

At home, the first option is unlikely to be possible, but the last two are worth attention.

Cold galvanizing

Here it’s just that the body is cleaned of rust and dirt, and then finely dispersed zinc is sprayed over it, in general, the process is very similar to spray painting a car with your own hands.

Watch a useful video, zinc spray test Zinc Spray BOLL:

DIY galvanizing

A simple method for galvanizing individual parts looks something like this:

A zinc solution, zinc chloride or zinc sulfate is taken. If you couldn’t purchase it, you can easily prepare it yourself; to do this, you just need to dissolve the metal in sulfuric or hydrochloric acid. The ingredients for this can be found in stores selling radio components; zinc chloride is used as soldering acid. And in auto parts stores you can buy sulfuric acid; it is often used as an electrolyte in acid batteries.
To prepare the solution you need an acid-resistant container. First, zinc is placed in it, then everything is carefully and slowly filled with acid. The approximate zinc content is 400 g per 1 liter of acid . It is important to perform this action in the open air and away from any sources of fire, as the reaction releases hydrogen, which burns well and explodes even better. A simple way to understand that the acid has been completely developed is to throw in a little more zinc; if no hydrogen bubbles come from it, then the reaction has completed successfully.
It is necessary to separate the clear solution from the liquid sediment.
Now you need to take a part prepared for galvanizing and connect the negative wire from the current source to it.
Plus you need to connect it to a piece of zinc.
Now we place both the part and the zinc in the resulting solution, and then turn on the voltage. 12 volts from the battery and charger will be sufficient .
The current will cause the dissolved zinc to settle on the part, and a piece of metal will enrich the solution. It is important to follow the rule: the wire to which the zinc is connected should under no circumstances come into contact with the solution. A reaction may occur, and then the whole process will go down the drain.
If the process proceeds correctly, a uniform layer of gray color will appear on the part. The main thing is that the process does not proceed too quickly, otherwise the metal may darken or become friable. To avoid this, the current should be no higher than 1 Ampere .
After completing the process, the part should be washed in a solution of baking soda or, in extreme cases, water. This is necessary to neutralize any remaining acid.

Some car enthusiasts with a good imagination, having read the instructions above, imagined how they would immerse the entire car body in the solution. This won't be necessary!

For galvanic galvanizing with your own hands, it is not at all necessary to bathe the body in electrolyte. This method is intended for galvanizing only individual vehicle parts.

To do this, it is prepared, all dirt and rust are cleaned off, and in this case you cannot use a rust destroyer or phosphoric acid.

Then you need to wrap a piece of zinc in cloth, preferably several times. It is easy to obtain zinc; for example, you can disassemble a round battery, in which the cup is made from the material we need. The plus from the battery is connected to the extracted cup, and the minus remains on the vehicle's ground.

Cigarette clamps are ideal for connecting wires; the main thing is to make sure that the fabric does not touch them.

Connection diagram for galvanizing

Next, moisten a glass of zinc wrapped in a bandage with soldering acid or zinc chloride, and carefully begin to move it over the part that you are planning to galvanize (watch the video instructions below).

The metal will slowly settle on the surface. At the end of the procedure, you need to rinse the galvanized area with a solution of baking soda or simply water.

Watch a video on how to do galvanizing in your garage yourself:

Interesting video, protecting metal from corrosion with zinc (how to prepare materials and perform galvanizing):

Conclusion

You need to be careful and follow safety precautions when working with electricity and chemical solutions. And you can galvanize the body of your car, while saving significantly.

( 5 times, rating: 3.00 out of 5)

Source: http://avto-i-avto.ru/svoimi-rukami/pokrytie-kuzova-mashiny-cinkom-v-domashnix-usloviyax.html

How to galvanize a body using a battery

Buying a new car is a pleasure that not everyone can afford. That's why many car owners still drive old, beat-up cars. Even if you invest a lot of money, time and effort into restoring the technical part, the stumbling block may be the appearance of the vehicle.

Many car enthusiasts have encountered such an unpleasant phenomenon as corrosion. You can try cleaning cars that are fairly rotten with sandpaper, treating them with putty and primer, or applying acrylic. However, after a few months the problem will still return.

Why is this happening? Why don't a sandblaster or a sander solve the problem? The point is that you are cleaning off the rust on top, but not removing what is inside.

And corrosion is a disease. And if it makes itself felt at least once, it is almost impossible to get rid of it. There are several ways that allow you to forget about rust for several years. We will tell you about them today.

Treatment with salt batteries

It all starts with preparation. You will need:

Salt batteries. For example, for a VAZ-2107, five salt batteries will be quite enough.
Degreaser.
Several types of sandpaper.
Putty and a clean rag.
Wires.
Acid – phosphoric acid or soldering acid.
Epoxy primer.
Citric acid.
Varnish, paint.

THIS IS INTERESTING: What is direct plasma welding

The area damaged by corrosion is thoroughly cleaned and galvanized with a battery. To do this, the top shell with the name is removed from the battery, and a wire is fixed to the body. The second end is connected to a car battery or car battery charger. The longer the wire, the better - it will be more convenient for you to work.

Then you need to apply voltage - the minus goes from the battery or charger to the body. We connect the light bulb in parallel so as not to damage the battery. After this, the battery is wrapped in a rag and soaked in acid. Slowly move this simple device around a protected area. You will hear a hissing sound and the iron will be covered with a light layer of zinc.

The process is long but effective. When the treatment is finished, you need to prepare a solution with citric acid and wipe the treated metal. Then degrease and dry, apply epoxy primer. Although it will cost 500-600 rubles per cylinder, it will hold up perfectly. Next, if necessary, putty is applied, primed and a base is applied. After this, the surface is covered with varnish or acrylic paint.

Read also: Reinforcement types of reinforcement types its purpose

Other galvanizing methods

In addition to the processing method described above (galvanic), cold and thermal galvanizing is used. Let's look at them in more detail.

Thermal galvanization

It is almost impossible to implement it at home. At the factory it’s a different matter. The car body is dipped into molten zinc and rolled. Ford, Volvo, Porsche, etc. cars are subjected to this treatment.

Thus, cold and galvanic galvanizing can be done with your own hands at home, without the help of specialists. The event, although long, is low-cost. Absolutely every car enthusiast can hold it in his garage.

Error in the text? Select it with your mouse! And press: Ctrl + Enter

Do-it-yourself galvanizing of a car body with video and photos

The article will talk about galvanizing a car body with your own hands. At the end of the article you will find a video on the same topic. Galvanizing a car body is quite a scrupulous matter. Therefore, we recommend that you initially practice on any other iron surface, and when you have already become proficient, you can safely start galvanizing the body of your car with your own hands.

To galvanize iron, we need soldering acid (zinc chlorine), you can buy it at a radio parts store, or you can do it yourself - throw pieces of zinc into hydrochloric acid until the reaction stops; zinc electrode; a glass of salted AA battery; a piece of fabric or cotton wool; the wire.

We connect the wire to the battery positive. Disconnect the positive terminal. The minus remains on the body.

We clean the metal so that there is not a drop of rust left on it.

We saturate the fabric with soldering acid.

We begin to move our fabric tip along the metal surface.

This is the reaction that takes place.

We continue to drive along the surface.

Anyone who has the patience can process the entire car body in this way. Afterwards everything is washed off with water. And for those who want to play it safe, they can wash it off with a light alkaline solution, for example, a solution of baking soda. Zinc can be obtained from salt batteries or from old Soviet carburetors. You can use a charger instead of a battery. Here at this place 2 years ago we had severe rust, which we cleaned and galvanized using this method.

Read also: Do-it-yourself sawdust making machine

We have been using the car in this condition for 2 years now and the rust has not reappeared. So feel free to try, don’t forget to practice before you work on the car.

battery galvanized

Film & Animation
Autos & Vehicles
Music
Pets & Animals
Sports
Travel & Events
Gaming
Comedy
Entertainment
Howto&Style
Science & Technology

battery galvanized

Chief Mechanic - Cleaning and galvanizing bugs on cars, removing pockets of corrosion! Galvanizing cars with his hands. Tsinkar.

Mechanics Blog - This Device Will Protect Your Car From Corrosion. How to galvanize a car with a battery. Struggle.

Greetings to you friends, subscribers and viewers who have come to visit me again! This video will cover exactly that.

Zincari solution 5%, a sprayer attached to it from a window cleaner, the solution can be made more powerful by crumbling it.

The best way to remove rust is to not interrupt the oxidation process. We will apply it using a physical-chemical method.

Galvanizing the body with your own hands using a salt battery. Mitsubishi Lancer CEDIA WAGON GDI (MITSUBISHI LANCER CEDIA WAGON) Group.

practical manual galvanizing of a damaged area of a car body. The description is on the channel.

Zinc from old batteries for galvanizing metal at home! How to shop on AliExpress with double.

In this episode of Technical Environment, its host Gennady Emelkin tells and shows how to use...

Greetings to you friends, subscribers and viewers who have come to visit me again! Thanks to your trust, one.

how to protect iron from corrosion forever. The most reliable way is to apply zinc to the surface of the iron.

I'm trying to galvanize with Hydrochloric acid instead of Sulfuric acid like last year, the straightened and puttied one has rotted.

Source: https://morflot.su/kak-ocinkovat-kuzov-s-pomoshhju-batarejki/

Do-it-yourself galvanizing of the body with a battery

Hello friends! I decided to share with you the old “grandfather’s” method of dealing with pockets of rust. This method is not new, but very effective. A year ago, I began to actively “ventilate” the topic of fighting rust, and this is galvanizing, tinning car bodies. The fact is that I inherited a Gas M20 Pobeda car from my beloved grandfather.

For me, the process of restoring Victory is extremely important and very responsible. The only thought spinning in my head is that it’s easier for me to build a mega-charged prototype for the Trophy from scratch than to “mess up” with the restoration of a family rarity. But, the decision has been made, I will have to give up my active sports life for a while and plunge into the world of old cars.

But there is a definite plus here! There are many technologies for combating rust, and the problem with rust is no less relevant for modern cars. Below I will give an example of chiseled repair of a body (galvanized), after damage to the paintwork and its further protection from rust. Our “Boevik” volunteered to be the test subject in this experiment. Experiment was started a year ago. Below I will provide photos of the technological process with comments.

We all understand that an SUV, if it is actively used for its intended purpose, quite often receives minor abrasions and scratches.

Like here for example.

We clean the damaged area with sandpaper. If minor rust appears, it must be removed. Zinc will not adhere to rust.

Next we will need the following things:
A cheap battery.

Removing rust, galvanizing a car with your own hands

Why is this happening? Why don't a sandblaster or a sander solve the problem? The point is that you are cleaning off the rust on top, but not removing what is inside.

Communities › Body Repair › Blog › Cleaning rust by electrochemical method and galvanizing metal. Part 1

[Rust destroyers cannot be used because... they form a film of phosphates, which will interfere with subsequent galvanizing. Phosphoric acid should be used instead.]

At the same time, other sources write:

[Orthophosphoric acid should also not be used to clean rust.]

On drive2, of course, there are useful articles on this topic, however, after a long search and reading various forums, I could not find answers to some questions, so I decided to try different options and materials myself and choose one for myself with which and I will continue to work.
And although the result of my experiment was not entirely complete, some questions and doubts were still resolved. So.

Briefly, the essence of the method of electrochemical cleaning of rust and galvanic galvanizing of metal: we destroy rust with corrosive chemicals and at the same time pass current through the surface to be cleaned to enhance the cleaning effect.

Next, we apply a “piece of metal-Zinc” to the cleaned metal of the car and pass a current from the Zinc to the metal of the car. The current begins to tear off zinc ions, and they attach to the metal surface of the car, thus forming a protective, thin coating of zinc, which is the first to “take the blow” of oxidation and subsequent rust.

At the same time, zinc rusts much slower than steel, which protects the steel car body well from rust.

STAGE I. Cleaning from rust.

To remove rust, I tested the following materials:

1. Soda ash. In powder form. Price 0.8$ (40 rubles).2. Pipe cleaner "MOLE". In powder form, it consists of caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) which is an alkali. Price 0.3$ (20 rubles).3. Pipe cleaner "MOLE". In liquid form, the composition is the same caustic soda + anti-corrosion additive. Price 1.1$ (80 rubles).4. Orthophosphoric acid. Price 6.7$ (400 rub.) per 1 liter.

5. Sulfuric acid. As an electrolyte for lead-acid batteries. Price 1.0$ (60 rubles).

Products 1, 2 and 3 are sold in hardware stores. Orth.phosph. I bought the acid at a special chemical reagent store, but people use phosphoric-based soldering acid from radio parts stores. It’s not a problem to buy electrolyte at a car store. Typically its composition is 35% sulfuric acid and 65% distilled water.

First I prepared the solutions, because... All these 5 products are needed in liquid form. Agents 1 and 2 were dissolved in water. I won’t tell you the proportions, I just poured a little powder into the water and mixed well. If all the grains dissolved, I added more. When the powder stops dissolving, it means the solution is already saturated to the maximum and is ready for use.

I used products 3, 4 and 5 directly in their original form. Next I made an electrode for cleaning rust, it would be better if it were made of stainless steel.

I bought a stainless steel spatula at a hardware store. I checked it with a magnet - stainless steel does not magnetize. I cut out a convenient piece from a spatula, bent it, and drilled a hole for secure fastening of the wire. The wire was soldered and wrapped.

See photo below.

Source: https://the-avto.ru/drugoe/ocinkovka-kuzova-svoimi-rukami-batarejkoj.html

Galvanizing a car body with a battery video

Alkaline batteries are not suitable for us, since their body is not made of zinc, but these ones have a body made of 99.9 percent pure zinc.

We attach an electric clothespin to the other end. Then you will need regular cotton pads. We take one disk, wrap it around the battery and secure it with an elastic band. The result was a device to protect cars from metal corrosion.

How to galvanize a car body with your own hands using a battery

Hot (thermal). The operation is not available for garage repairs. The entire car body or only a certain part is lowered into a tank with a zinc alloy; during rental, a protective layer is applied on top.

If the process proceeds correctly, a uniform layer of gray color will appear on the part. The main thing is that the process does not proceed too quickly, otherwise the metal may darken or become friable.

For galvanic galvanizing with your own hands, it is not at all necessary to bathe the body in electrolyte. This method is intended for galvanizing only individual vehicle parts.

For this purpose, it is prepared, that is, all dirt and rust are removed, and in this case you cannot use a rust destroyer or phosphoric acid.

How to galvanize the car body and parts with your own hands?

To actually prepare the solution, you need to put a piece of zinc in a prepared container and pour acid into it in small doses (400 g of metal per 1 liter of acid). Remember! Follow safety regulations. Be sure to protect your respiratory system, eyes and hands. Once the zinc has completely dissolved, make sure the acid has reacted completely.

THIS IS INTERESTING: Which precious metals are magnetic

The current acts on the zinc, and it sticks to the metal surface of the body. This type of galvanizing is popular among European and Japanese car manufacturers. Thermal galvanizing Thermal galvanizing - the finished body is immersed in molten zinc. This is a very effective galvanizing method that reliably protects the car body even after further processing.

Most well-known automobile companies galvanize the body directly at the production stage. Some do this only in relation to individual parts, many galvanize the entire body.

Buying a new car is a pleasure that not everyone can afford. That's why many car owners still drive old, beat-up cars.

Galvanizing a car is carried out in order to protect the body once and for all from the formation of annoying “saffron caps”, as well as to prevent the further spread of corrosion throughout the body.

Unfortunately, today there is no single correct solution to prevent corrosion, but there is one method that can effectively resist the process of metal oxidation - galvanizing the car body.

How to galvanize a body?

The most important thing is not to stop. If you keep the battery in one place for a long time, then burns appear, and if you move the battery continuously over the surface, you get an even layer of zinc. You will see the result almost from the first seconds.

Please note that you can galvanize both a part of the car body (fender, trunk, hood, etc.) and any individual part. And this will require direct hands, certain knowledge, a specific set of materials and tools, as well as the desire to give your car additional strength.

In 1986, the Audi 80 became the first production car with a completely galvanized body. Now every manufacturer strives to protect the most vulnerable parts of the car in one way or another.

Mechanics Blog - This Device Will Protect Your Car From Corrosion. How to galvanize a car with a battery. Fighting corrosion. Galvanic..

Galvanizing a car body at home

Galvanizing at home. Galvanizing is the coating of metal with a layer of zinc to protect it from corrosion. The protection method is based on the following...

If the machine has full anti-corrosion protection, the technical documentation indicates “full galvanization”.

Today I will show you how and with what you can remove rust from a car body for many years with your own hands. Share this video on social networks, it...

If the machine has full anti-corrosion protection, the technical documentation indicates “full galvanization”.

Galvanizing a car body at home - Machine tools, welding, metalworking

If noticeable pockets of corrosion have formed on the body of your truck or car, but they are still not through, you need to take immediate action. As practice shows, if you do not stop body corrosion in time, the cost of subsequent repairs to your car will be many times higher. For this reason, you can’t hesitate!

In recent years, many motorists have noticed: even in large densely populated cities, road services mercilessly use salt. As a result, the bodies rot to holes in literally two to three years.

To resist the rusting process and the aggressive effects of road reagents, there is a very simple but effective way - do-it-yourself galvanizing of the body.

Galvanizing a car is carried out in order to protect the body once and for all from the formation of annoying “saffron caps”, as well as to prevent the further spread of corrosion throughout the body.

The zinc “crust” on the surface of the metal creates a kind of barrier that protects the steel from negative factors and the destructive effects of an aggressive environment. The zinc-based coating effectively resists the effects of salts, chemicals and moisture.

Preparatory work

If you need to galvanize a large surface area on your car, then it is better to take large zinc batteries. First, you need to “print” them all and remove all the excess braiding.

If you wish, you can also use only the casing of a salt battery, after removing the graphite core and soot, but in principle you can leave all the “internals” in place.

On the body of the “bare” galvanized battery, on one side you need to secure a cotton pad with an elastic band, and on the other side (also using a regular rubber band) - the power wire. You can use a car battery or a suitable power supply as a power source.

How does galvanizing of a surface occur?

If you don't know how to galvanize correctly, read the short instructions first.

The “minus” from the car battery must be connected directly to the part of the body (or part) that you are going to galvanize with the battery - that is, using the battery.

We connect the wire that goes to the zinc body of the battery to the positive terminal of the battery. Please note that the negative terminal should never be disconnected, because the desired effect will not be obtained.

Before starting galvanizing, it is advisable to clean the surface to be treated from traces of rust, if any. You need to take orthophosphoric acid with zinc dissolved in it into a syringe and soak a cotton pad that is placed on the body of the salt battery. After this, you just need to move the “nozzle” over the entire area of the surface being treated.

The most important thing is not to stop. If you keep the battery in one place for a long time, then burns appear, and if you move continuously over the surface, you get a neat and even layer of zinc. You will see the result almost from the first seconds.

Although some people call this method of galvanizing a car “artisanal,” it is truly a proven, simplest and, most importantly, effective way to combat corrosion. And, as an option, you can use a ready-made camping kit - a car kit for galvanizing Zinkor auto.

Using this product, you can quickly localize particularly advanced areas of rust, as well as remove all traces of corrosion on the car body. Galvanic galvanization allows you to reliably protect the metal surface from the reappearance of “saffron caps”.

Method of galvanizing metal using “white powder”

Typically, for galvanizing small areas of metal surfaces, phosphoric acid and a galvanized battery casing are most often used. However, for better processing, it is better to use soldering acid instead of phosphoric acid. It is hydrochloric acid in which zinc is dissolved. It is believed that the galvanization of the body in this case will be deeper and more durable.

You can purchase soldering acid at almost any radio electronics store. But it’s not entirely convenient that soldering acid for soldering at home is sold only in small bottles.

Therefore, if you need large volumes of soldering acid for galvanizing, it can be made at home from “white powder” - zinc chloride, which is sold by weight.

Main stages of work

Pour zinc chloride into a suitable container, then add distilled water and mix until a clear liquid consistency is formed (note that you need to wear rubber gloves when working with chemicals). From 1 kg of zinc chloride, approximately 3.5 liters of finished soldering acid are obtained.

The result is a galvanic bath, in which, if necessary, pieces of sheet steel and entire metal parts can be galvanized.

For further work, you will need a galvanized battery case and an iron bolt, at the ends of which cotton fabric must be secured with rubber bands.

The part that needs to be galvanized must first be thoroughly cleaned of rust with a grinder, using a cleaning disc with a metal brush. Before galvanizing, the metal must be “activated” - the oxide film must be removed from the surface using electricity.

How to activate metal

To do this, the positive terminal from the charger must be connected directly to the workpiece, and the negative terminal through a 20-watt light bulb to the electrode. A bolt with a cotton cloth at the end is used as an electrode, which must be moistened in soldering acid or electrolyte.

After applying current, we treat the surface of the part; as a result, the product is better cleaned of oxides. Only after this procedure can you begin directly processing the car - galvanizing the car body.

Galvanizing a car body with a battery in a garage

According to the good old tradition, pockets of corrosion on the body appear after the winter period, when the roads are sprinkled with reagent. To stop rust and prevent through corrosion, you need to stop this process as quickly as possible. And galvanizing the car will help in this situation.

For self-galvanizing you will need salt batteries, the body of which is made of zinc, a wire and a battery. A small piece of rag moistened with soldering acid is placed on the battery, and it is connected through a wire to the positive terminal of the battery. The made device must be pressed against the source of corrosion and moved carefully from side to side.

As a result of all manipulations, a film of silver coating appears on the metal surface instead of rust. An important addition to the work done will be the neutralization of the remaining acid, which can be extinguished with a solution of baking soda and water.

These are the simple “folk” methods used to perform the technology of galvanizing a car body with your own hands using the galvanic method. By the way, we forgot to mention another good product with which you can easily and quickly galvanize a metal surface - Tsinkar for cars.

For more information on how to stop rust on a car body with your own hands, you can watch a video tutorial that talks about all the nuances of galvanizing a car body at home using a battery and other methods accessible to the common driver.

Source: https://stanki-info.com/tsinkovanie-kuzova-legkovogo-avtomobilya-v-domashnih-usloviyah/

This battery-powered device will protect your car from corrosion.

Alkaline batteries are not suitable for us, since their body is not made of zinc, but these ones have a body made of 99.9 percent pure zinc.

Inventors shop at a budget Chinese online store.

DIY electronics in a Chinese store.

We attach an electric clothespin to the other end. Then you will need regular cotton pads. We take one disk, wrap it around the battery and secure it with an elastic band. The result was a device to protect cars from metal corrosion.

We connect the electrical clothespin of the device to the positive terminal of the battery and now we can remove rust, not just remove it, but even galvanize the metal.

You just need to press and hold for a few minutes. The zinc from the battery body will transfer to the metal on the car body and this place will no longer rust in the future.

You can see how the rust is almost all gone. After galvanizing, there was no trace of rust left, only a small thin layer of zinc appeared. This is clearly visible - it has a silver color.