How to restore body galvanization

DIY rusty body repair

How to get rid of rust on a car body is a question that worries most owners of used cars. There are not many options, go to a service station, or take care of the problem yourself. Many people do not know how to deal with rust on a car body, so they often simply cover it with paint, but this method does not save for long, but rust is not fatal, so let’s look at ways to get rid of it.

Ways to get rid of rust

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Of course, the most correct and drastic solution in the fight against corrosion would be to replace the entire part, however:

• It happens that such a part cannot be obtained, or its cost exceeds reasonable limits, but you always want to save money;
• Therefore, now we will figure out how to remove rust on a car body with our own hands;
• There are several methods, and they are all quite labor-intensive;
• Modern cars have a galvanized body, at least most;
• This prevents corrosion from developing, however, with deep scratches, creases and chips, the protective zinc layer is damaged;
• How can you make sure that the body of your car is galvanized?
• It is enough to study the passport data of your car;
• Either very carefully scrape off the paint from an inconspicuous area of ​​the body, not forgetting to paint it afterwards;
• Car bodies are not made of stainless steel, most likely it is a matter of production cost, so the problem of rust remains relevant;
• It is necessary to observe safety precautions, use goggles and rubber gloves when performing body work to avoid contact with chemicals on the body.

Rust does not show through

If the body is affected by rust in several places, it is necessary to thoroughly wash these places with car shampoo before starting work, then:

• After the case has dried, all problem areas should be treated with coarse sandpaper, or use a metal brush;
• It is not recommended to use a grinder because the stripping discs remove a layer of metal;
• Only discs with plastic soles are suitable for performing this procedure;
• Use an abrasive wheel mounted on a drill to go through problem areas. Removing rust on the body using an abrasive wheel

• It is also recommended to use a rust converter when repairing a rusty body;
• The converter is applied to the cleaned defective areas, wait for several hours, then washed off with a wet rag or a stream of water. Car body treated with anti-corrosion agent

• Then apply a primer to the surface of the body, after it dries, fill in the unevenness with automotive putty (if necessary);
• After the putty has dried, sand it with fine-grained sandpaper, after which the surface must be painted;
• At this point, the repair of the car body after corrosion is completed;

The body has small holes

If the corrosion is deep, and even small holes have appeared, then proceed in the following way:

• Using a cone brush (a stiffer one is recommended) placed on a drill, rust is removed from the car body

Example of brushes for cleaning the body

Attention: The use of abrasive wheels and a grinder is not allowed - you will simply burn the metal, after such cleaning it will rot very quickly.

• After cleaning, you can confidently assess how deep the corrosion has penetrated. The cleaned area is blown with air from the compressor, then you need to place a spotlight or flashlight behind the part;
• If the housing part is non-removable, then you should try to plug in a light source from behind;
• In places where holes have appeared, luminous points will be visible when the external lighting is extinguished;

Instructions on how to stop car body corrosion are as follows:

• The simplest way is to solder the holes with ordinary tin solder;
• To do this, you need a hammer soldering iron, soldering acid (rosin is not suitable here), POS-61 brand solder, a hair dryer may also be useful to warm up the repair area when the power of the soldering iron is not enough;
• Buy a rust converter, you can’t do without it.

Attention: Before you start working with a new soldering iron, you should tin the tip (its working surface).

Hammer soldering iron

• Before starting work, the repair area, which has through corrosion, should be cleaned of rust residues;
• Because solder will not stick to a rusty surface;
• The most important thing is not to be lazy, when you are too lazy to tinker, then go back to the beginning, where it is recommended to purchase a new part;
• To remove the remaining rye you will need a pointed needle file, or a piece of hacksaw blade, or a knife with a sharp blade and abrasive sandpaper;
• Use coarse sandpaper (grain P60-80) to pass through the rust spot (if not brushed), this removes the surface layer;
• Then you should pick out any rust that has already set in from the metal;
• To make the places clearly visible, you need to apply a rust converter with a brush and wait a couple of minutes;
• The rust will darken and become clearly visible on clean metal; at this stage you will need pointed objects to pick out rotten metal;
• The process is the most tedious and time-consuming;
• You should constantly apply rust converter to these areas with a brush;
• This way you wash away the rust you've already picked off and see where you need to put in extra effort;
• After the place has been cleaned, you can begin servicing it;

Attention: When the diameter of the through holes exceeds 2-3 millimeters, it will no longer be possible to fill them with solder; this method is suitable when through corrosion forms in the form of a fine mesh.

• Apply soldering acid to the surface before it dries, you need to apply tin solder with a heated soldering iron over the entire cleaned surface, where there are already and may appear holes from corrosion
• For better tin solder adhesion, constantly lubricate the evaporating acid
• When the metal of the case is thick and the power of the hammer soldering iron is not enough to heat the tin, then use an industrial hair dryer or a second soldering iron

Advice: Soldering must be done in the open air or in a ventilated room (or in a room with forced exhaust), since the evaporated acid is very harmful to the respiratory tract, and its smell is not pleasant.

• Repairing corrosion damage to the body cannot be done carelessly; the price of careless work is that the body will rust again and very quickly;
• After completing the work, check again with a light to see if there are still any through holes;
• After the repair area has been tinned and the corrosion areas have been soldered, the treated surfaces should be cleaned of any acid and converter that may remain;
• As a rule, they are washed with water or a mixture of gasoline and alcohol;
• In order to increase the service life of a repaired body part, it is important to properly protect it from contact with the atmosphere;
• Apply acid primer to the tinned area of ​​this body part using a paint sprayer, then acrylic primer on top of it, only after that can the surface be puttied;

Important: Putty cannot be placed on top of acidic primer, so acrylic primer is used.

• If suddenly, when sanding the putty, you get rubbed down to the metal, there’s nothing to worry about, just blow it with acid primer again and cover the exposed areas with acrylic;
• When completing the restoration of a rusty car body, you should definitely protect the back side of that repair area;
• The condition is mandatory! Otherwise, all the work done will go down the drain;
• There are many ways to protect against corrosion, the main thing is to block the access of moisture and air to the protected area;
• The first option is to prime the back side with acid and acrylic primers;
• The second option is to apply a layer of good sealant, mastic, or fill it with Movil;
• The choice of option will depend on the ease of access to the surface being treated;
• If you can’t get to it with a sprayer, try applying the primer with a brush, and then cover it with Movil, to be safe, or a similar product;
• Now it is clear to you how to restore a car body from rust with small holes;

Applying patches

When a hole has already formed in the body, putty or soldering is not enough:

• The easiest way here would be to make and install a patch;
• Of course, this method is suitable for holes with a diameter of no more than 5-7 centimeters; when the hole is larger, replacement of the body element or welding work is definitely necessary;
• How to get rid of rust on a car body if holes have already appeared?;
• First, the damaged area should be thoroughly washed, then cleaned and free of rust using the method described above;
• After this, a patch is cut out with dimensions slightly larger than the hole, from thin metal, a tin can will do;

Patch made of thin tin

• Now you need the same hammer soldering iron, with its help you will have to tin the surfaces on the outside of the hole and the edge of the finished patch with tin;
• Soldering acid or its analogue is used as a flux;
• At the end, the patch will need to be soldered with a continuous seam, then the patch will need to be hammered down;
• Clean the protruding edges with coarse sandpaper;
• After this, cover the defective area with putty, prime and paint;
• Body repairs after rust can be done by welding;

Patch attached by welding

• The patch is welded to the body using carbon dioxide welding, but for this you will need a welding machine (or a welder with a machine), plus welding skills;
• Further processing as with the previous patch, stripping, primer, putty, sanding the putty and painting;
• Don't forget about processing the reverse side.

We wish you success in your body work!

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Galvanizing a car body at home - Ice advice

The “home” method of galvanizing metal allows you to prevent the formation of corrosion on the car body and thereby reduce service costs. Galvanization can also be used for various metal products to further protect them from rust. It must be said right away that this method is very simple and does not require large financial costs.

Preparatory work

This method involves the use of phosphoric acid with zinc dissolved in it, and will also require zinc (salt) batteries. You can use both small finger batteries and large batteries - it all depends on the amount of work being done.

If you need to galvanize a large area, it is better to take large zinc batteries. First you need to print them out and remove all excess braiding.

If desired, you can use only the battery case, removing the graphite rod and soot, but in principle you can leave the “insides” in place.

On the body of the “bare” battery, on one side you need to secure a cotton pad with an elastic band, and on the reverse side (also with an elastic band) - the power wire. You can use a car battery as a power source.

How does galvanizing of a surface occur?

The negative from the battery must be connected directly to the part of the body (or part) that you are going to galvanize. We connect the wire that goes to the zinc body of the battery to the positive terminal of the battery. Please note that the negative terminal should never be disconnected, because the desired effect will not be obtained.

Before starting galvanizing, it is advisable to clean the surface to be treated from traces of rust, if any. You need to take orthophosphoric acid with zinc dissolved in it into a syringe and soak a cotton pad that is placed on the battery body. After this, you just need to move the zinc battery over the entire area of ​​the surface being treated.

The most important thing is not to stop. If you keep the battery in one place for a long time, then burns appear, and if you move the battery continuously over the surface, you get an even layer of zinc. You will see the result almost from the first seconds.

Although some people call this galvanizing method “artisanal,” it is truly a proven, simplest, and most importantly, effective way to combat corrosion. To learn how to properly perform galvanizing, watch the video on our website.

You might be interested in

Do-it-yourself galvanizing of metal on chipped bodywork. — DRIVE2

My “Gani” has several chips on the rear fender down to the metal. Having lost the integrity of the galvanization in these places, I would not want to get by with putty and painting. In a conversation with a friend about this topic, what seems to me to be a rather interesting topic came up

So, at home you can galvanize any steel part as follows:
1) Take a solution of zinc salt, zinc sulfate or zinc chloride. If you haven’t bought one ready-made, then make it yourself by dissolving this metal in hydrochloric or sulfuric acid. Similar kits for young chemists can be found in radio parts stores.

Here zinc chloride is sold as soldering acid.
Sulfuric acid can be found in auto parts stores, as it is often used as an electrolyte for acid batteries. 2) When preparing the solution, first put zinc in an acid-resistant container, and then carefully pour the acid into it.

For one liter of acid you will need about 400 g of metal.
Perform such manipulations in fresh air and away from fire sources, since the reaction product is also hydrogen. It is flammable and explosive. 3) You can make sure that the acid has been completely developed by putting a little more zinc in the container after dissolving the previous batch.

If no hydrogen bubbles are released, then there is no reaction.
4) Separate the clear solution from the liquid sediment.
5) Take the part that needs to be galvanized and connect the minus of the current source to it.
6) Connect the plus to a piece of zinc metal.

7) Place them in the resulting electrolyte at a certain distance and apply voltage. You can get by with 12 volts, which are supplied by a car battery and charger. Thanks to the current, zinc will settle on steel parts, metallic zinc will dissolve and enrich the solution.

It is very important that the wire to which the piece of zinc is connected does not come into contact with the solution.
Otherwise, the galvanizing process will be ruined, since the wire will begin to dissolve in the solution. If the process proceeds correctly, a uniform gray layer will appear on the part.

If galvanizing proceeds too quickly, the steel surface may become loose and dark.
It is enough to use a current of up to 1 ampere. 9) After galvanizing, rinse the part in a solution of baking soda or water. This will neutralize any remaining acid.

After reading the above instructions for galvanizing the body, every experienced car enthusiast thought about how he would place the overall body of his car in the solution. The point is that there is no need to lower it anywhere.

For galvanic galvanizing in garage conditions, bathing the body in an electrolyte bath is not carried out. Using this method, you can galvanize only a separate part of the car body. To do this, clean its surface from dirt and rust using sandpaper.

An important point - you cannot use phosphoric acid or rust destroyer!
It does not affect the paintwork at the treatment site, since it does not contain acids and alkalis, odorless solutions are not volatile, not flammable.

The galvanized surface in an unpainted state does not corrode for 3 years, in a painted state 15-20 years.

Source: https://LEDsovet.ru/cinkovanie-kyzova-legkovogo-avtomobilia-v-domashnih-ysloviiah/

Do-it-yourself galvanizing of a car body

To protect the body of their car from corrosion, car owners use various methods. Some people store their cars in the garage and don’t drive them out in the winter, others wash them weekly, and others treat them with anti-corrosion materials. Unfortunately, today there is no single correct solution to prevent corrosion, but there is one method that can effectively resist the process of metal oxidation - galvanizing the car body.

This technology is far from new and has been used by some automakers for a long time. It is much more effective than all existing methods of fighting rust and can withstand it for decades. We will talk about what galvanizing a car body is in this article. We will look at existing methods of applying protective coatings in factories and at home.

What is galvanizing

Galvanizing a car body is the process of covering it with a thin layer of zinc. This metal is practically resistant to corrosion and protects structural elements not only from moisture, but also from other chemically active substances. Automobile manufacturers use galvanizing at the car assembly stage.

It can be complete or partial. In the first case, absolutely all elements of the body can be processed, both from the outside and from the inside.

The second option involves zinc coating only those parts that most often suffer from interaction with an aggressive environment: the bottom, sills, wings, etc.

There are only three ways to apply a zinc layer to the metal of the body:

• galvanic;
• thermal;
• cold.

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Galvanic method

Galvanic galvanization of a car body involves placing it (or a separate element of it) in a container with a certain electrolyte. The container body is connected to the positive electrode of the power source, and the element being processed is connected to the negative electrode.

Without diving deeply into electrochemical processes, the technology can be described in simple language like this. Zinc particles in the electrolyte are accelerated under the influence of electricity and begin to move from the anode to the cathode, i.e. to the body, and cover it with a thin but continuous layer.

Galvanic galvanizing technology is rightfully considered the most effective way to resist corrosion, since the part is coated with a protective layer on all sides.

Thermal (thermal diffusion) galvanizing method

The thermal method involves placing the element being processed in a bath of hot zinc solution, where, under the influence of temperature, a thin layer of protection is applied to the metal.

Some car manufacturers practice applying zinc to the steel sheets from which the body is made, even during the rolling process. This method is slightly inferior in efficiency to the galvanic method, but also serves as excellent protection against rust.

The Americans were the first to produce cars with hot-dip galvanized bodies, but after a few years the technology spread to Europe.

This method is close to galvanic, but it does not require any capacitance. Here everything happens with the help of a special electrode, the active composition of which includes zinc. It is connected to the positive terminal of the power source, and the element being processed is connected to the negative terminal.

When the electrode interacts with the part, zinc particles under the influence of electricity move from the cathode to the anode, covering it with a protective layer. Cold galvanizing of a car body is most often used to process individual elements and is rarely used by automakers.

How to tell if your car is galvanized

Considering that not all companies that manufacture cars use the listed protection technologies, it would be a good idea to find out whether your car has undergone such treatment, and whether you can hope that its metal can resist corrosion. But how can you determine the galvanization of a car body if it is painted?

The easiest and surest way is to study the user manual. If the body has undergone similar treatment, you will definitely find the corresponding mark in the document. The second way is to check the car using the VIN code. The response received will contain information about whether the body has been galvanized.

Well, the last method is a visual inspection of the car. If the body has damage to the paintwork, and underneath you see a characteristic gray layer, you can be sure that the car is galvanized. You can also inspect the bottom, fragmentarily removing dirt and a layer of anti-corrosion from it.

It wouldn’t hurt to take a look at the floor of the cabin, after first removing the carpet.

Galvanizing car bodies: table of methods, brands and models

The table below shows popular brands and models of cars with galvanized bodies.

Galvanic galvanization	Thermal galvanization
"BMW"	"Audi"
"Mercedes Benz"	"Volvo"
"Honda" (Accord, CR-V, Legend, Pilot)	Ford (Escort, Sierra)
"Kia"	"Chevrolet"
"Hyundai"	"Opel" ("Astra", "Vectra")
"Cheri"	"Volkswagen"
"Seat"	"Porsche"
"Lada" (Granta)	"Skoda" ("Octavia", "Fabia")

Is it possible to do galvanizing at home and what is required for this?

Galvanizing a car body with your own hands is quite possible, but it does not imply complete, but partial coating of certain elements with a protective layer. These may be areas that are most susceptible to corrosion: fender liners, sills, areas under the feet of the driver and passengers, door cards, as well as places where the paintwork is damaged.

The home method of applying zinc protection is something between cold and galvanic galvanization. But more on that a little later. And now about what is required for this.

Required tools and tools:

• latex gloves;
• zinc chloride or sulfate (soldering acid);
• a piece of zinc;
• glass vessel;
• car battery or charger;
• a piece of clean rag (gauze);
• sandpaper;
• degreaser (solvent);
• baking soda solution.

If you do not have the opportunity to purchase a ready-made zinc salt solution, you can prepare it yourself. To do this, take sulfuric or perchloric acid and dissolve pieces of zinc in it in a ratio of 1:0.4, i.e. for one liter of acid – 400 g. metal

This is done as follows. Pour acid into a glass container (glass, jar) and immerse zinc in doses until they stop interacting. The reaction occurs in the form of dissolution of the metal with the release of hydrogen. Therefore, be extremely careful: work with gloves and away from open heat sources. When the reaction stops, the solution can be considered ready. Filter it and drain the precipitate. Now you can begin the actual process.

Galvanizing the body at home

Galvanizing of a car body can only be carried out in areas that have been previously cleared of paint, dirt, dust, rust, and process fluids. To do this, the area to be treated is cleaned with sandpaper, then degreased and dried.

Now you need to assemble the device itself. For it, we first need a power source that produces 12 V and 1 A output. A battery or charger for it is perfect. Next you need to make a zinc electrode.

This can be either an ordinary piece of zinc (plate, rod), or a housing (glass) from an ordinary alkaline battery. The last option is preferable and much more convenient. The electrode must be wrapped in a rag in several layers and the positive terminal of the power source must be connected to it.

In this case, do not allow the rag with which you wrap the zinc rod or plate to come into contact with the terminal.

The negative wire from the power source is connected to the car body. Next, all you need is to dip the improvised electrode into the solution and slowly move it over the surface to be treated. During this process, zinc particles will be deposited on the steel in a thin layer, creating a protective coating. If the work is performed correctly, the treated area will have a dense texture of light gray color.

Upon completion of the galvanizing process, the area is washed with a solution of table salt and dried. In the future, it can be covered with primer and painted.

Some useful tips

The area to be treated must be thoroughly cleaned and sanded with fine sandpaper so that its surface does not have visible grooves.

Do not allow the positive electrode cable or its connection to come into contact with the electrolyte.

Washing with soda solution or any other alkaline solution is required. This is the only way to neutralize acid residues. Otherwise, a relapse of corrosion processes is possible.

Periodically check the condition of the cloth on the electrode. As you work, it will gradually burn, so wrap it up in a timely manner.

Carry out all work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, observing safety precautions. Do not allow the acid to come into contact with exposed skin or allow the generated hydrogen to come into contact with open sources of heat.

Source: https://FB.ru/article/258976/otsinkovka-kuzova-avtomobilya-svoimi-rukami

Do-it-yourself galvanizing of the body

Galvanizing a car

Galvanizing a car is coating the body surface with a zinc-containing substance to limit the destructive effects of corrosion. It is in this way that manufacturers have been protecting cars from rust for thirty years.

If previously machines were treated this way only in industrial conditions, now you can easily carry out galvanizing at home with your own hands. This way you will not only save money on visiting the workshop, but will also be confident in the excellent quality of the work.

By the way, on our website there is an article with a list of cars with galvanized bodies.

Galvanizing in industrial conditions

What are the advantages of galvanizing a car?

Now there are several options for protecting the car body from corrosion, but galvanizing is the most popular method. The reason for this lies in a number of advantages of this method.

• Reliability. Zinc does not react in any way to moisture and salts, which constantly attack the metal. This substance reacts with oxygen and creates a reliable barrier that protects the car body from the harmful effects of an aggressive environment.

Comparison of the corrosion reaction of iron and zinc

• Availability. Zinc is low cost. In addition, if you cover the surface of the body yourself, you will save a decent amount on the services of specialist auto repair shops. In addition, the necessary materials can be easily found on the automotive market.
• Durability. Among all the methods of corrosion protection, galvanizing has the longest service life.

There are several ways to galvanize cars. When choosing a treatment method, take into account the conditions of subsequent operation of the vehicle and the desired properties of the protective zinc layer.

1. Galvanic galvanizing. The machine part is immersed in a container with dissolved zinc. An electrode with a negative charge is attached to the immersed part of the car, and a positive charge is attached to the bath in which the electrolyte itself is located. So, under the influence of electricity, the dissolved zinc anode adheres to the metal immersed in it on the surface of the body.
2. Thermal galvanizing. The car body is immersed in a container with a zinc-containing solution heated to a certain temperature.
3. Cold galvanizing. The car part is treated with a zinc-containing solution. This method of galvanizing is often carried out at home. This is because cold galvanizing does not require special equipment such as galvanizing.

Cold galvanizing principle

What is cold galvanizing

Cold galvanizing is the painting of metal parts with a primer that is saturated with powdered zinc. After the procedure, the coating contains more than ninety percent zinc, so for these purposes it is necessary to use only a highly dispersed substance.

In order for cold galvanizing to bring the expected results, choose the right material. The thing is that different solutions have different effectiveness. In addition, many materials are demanding on the quality of the body surface being treated, and you can ruin the car yourself by applying the solution incorrectly or forgetting about the finishing coat.

In addition, if you choose a solution with insufficient adhesion strength, the coating will begin to peel off very quickly. Some novice car enthusiasts are surprised why, after galvanizing, the body part begins to become covered with a web of cracks. The thing is that they used a material with low elasticity.

Carefully study the composition and characteristics of the solution before applying it to a car part.

What are the advantages of cold galvanizing

• Simplicity. You can easily carry out galvanizing yourself, even if you have never done it before. In addition, the solution dries very quickly - in most cases half an hour is enough.
• Versatility. Cold galvanizing is used to process hard-to-reach parts. In addition, the solution can be applied in any way convenient for you: roller, brush, spray gun. Some small parts can even be immersed in a zinc-containing solution. In addition, the material interacts with any solvent (solvent, xylene). Remember that this is the method that can be used to process wet metal.
• Durability. Cold galvanizing lasts about three times longer than heat treatment.

How to prepare a solution for galvanizing

Before you start treating the surface of the car with your own hands, prepare a zinc-containing solution. All processing materials include zinc powder and liquid binder. In order for galvanizing to bring the expected results, carefully observe the proportions of the components.

Experts recommend mixing the powder and binder in proportions from 1:1 to 3:1. Of course, do not forget about safety precautions: your hands and respiratory organs must be thoroughly protected and degreased.

In addition, cold galvanizing itself is recommended to be carried out in a well-ventilated area.

How to galvanize a car part

Cold galvanizing of a car body part is a very responsible process, so take it extremely seriously.

• Preparing for work. Carefully handle the part with your own hands: remove traces of rust and remove the old paintwork. Remember that during processing it is necessary to use gentle paint removers - aggressive compounds can easily ruin a body part. If you had to use an aggressive product, then after cleaning, treat the surface of the part with an aqueous solution of soda. Remember that the better you prepare the liquid zinc, the longer the coating will last. Be sure to stir the liquid zinc carefully. If you do not do this, the solution will be uneven and the surface will not be covered accurately.

Preparation of body elements for galvanizing

• Galvanizing of parts. Carefully apply the product to the car body part. To achieve the best result, the room temperature should be between 5 and 40 degrees Celsius. It is more effective to process the part in two layers with your own hands. In this case, the second application is carried out thirty minutes after applying the first layer - the zinc must dry and adhere to the car body part.
• The final stage. In order for galvanizing to last for several years, do not forget to carefully fix the substance. Wait twenty-four hours after applying the last coat and use a clear coat of paint. You need to wait this long for the remaining solvent to completely disappear. Remember that the processed part of the car body cannot be subjected to any mechanical stress. Of course, after the procedure it is necessary to ventilate the room.

Source: https://okuzove.ru/remont-kuzova/ocinkovka-kuzova-svoimi-rukami.html

Galvanization of Hyundai Solaris body

The interest is quite understandable, as the body of a Hyundai Solaris is galvanized; if during assembly the body parts were treated with zinc, the service life of the iron horse will increase significantly.

What is galvanizing? The operation consists of placing body parts in a specialized bath filled with zinc. The metal spends a certain time in it, after which it gains the ability to resist corrosion.

Galvanization can be cold or hot. As for the Hyundai Solaris, in the case of this car it was the cold type that was used.

Tyumen, st. Alebashevskaya, 11, to check the quality of the car. The invitation was duplicated by telegram. By the way, it also contained some information.

Somehow, the check itself took about an hour. During this, photographs were taken and damage to the paintwork was recorded, not all of it, however. Based on the results of the inspection, a report was drawn up, a copy of which was handed over. Of course, you can’t wait to find out what the result was.

To be honest, I myself was surprised by this result. It is indicated that untimely elimination of identified defects can lead to their progression.

Is the body of the Hyundai Solaris galvanized?

Yeah!!!! No comments, as they say. After that, I was sure that the world-famous automobile concern would not spoil its reputation and would quietly replace the car. But it was not there!!!!!!

Can you imagine?????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They actually offer me to play with the constructor!!!!!! As a result, after the warranty repair, the only parts left untouched will be the hood, rear bumper and front bumper. Unfortunately, my neighbor scratched me when he parked, and it also needs to be painted, perhaps the trunk lid.

We are talking about hidden manufacturing defects!!!!!! You will ask me why I made a demand for a replacement of the car, and not for a refund, taking into account the difference in purchase price, how the body of a Hyundai Solaris is galvanized. The answer is very simple - the unstable economic situation in the country.

Is the Hyundai Solaris body galvanized?

For example, how to galvanize the body of a Hyundai Solaris of my configuration in December of the year cost from rubles, but now prices are jumping from Nehilo? And even if this amount were recovered in my favor now, it would take more than one month to appeal the final court decision, its entry into legal force, the issuance of a writ of execution and its enforcement.

Bad The car is already 2 years old. Considering the age and quality of zinc treatment of this machine, under normal operating conditions, the first corrosion will begin after 4 years. The information in the table is for reference only, collected from publicly available sources and may contain errors.

Notes When a galvanized body is damaged, corrosion destroys the zinc and not the steel. Galvanic - Good type. Less corrosion resistance, ideally combined with paint and primer.

How a body is galvanized Solaris Hyundai

Source: https://yastalamamoy.ru/hyundai/solaris/%D0%BE%D1%86%D0%B8%D0%BD%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%B0%D0%BD -%D0%BB%D0%B8-%D0%BA%D1%83%D0%B7%D0%BE%D0%B2-%D0%BD%D0%B0-%D1%85%D0%B5%D0 %BD%D0%B4%D0%B0%D0%B9-%D1%81%D0%BE%D0%BB%D1%8F%D1%80%D0%B8%D1%81.html

Is the Lada Vesta body galvanized or not?

A lot of controversy has been caused about the modern AVTOVAZ car, which is VESTA. Many do not believe our automobile industry and say that “modern generation” is nothing more than a continuation of the “folk” GRANT, KALINA, PRIOR on the one hand.

If we put aside everything else (technical and design), opponents of the brand, often entering into disputes, bring up the following facts - “ it will rot in a couple of years if not treated correctly ”! However, the manufacturer gives a guarantee “for 6 years” specifically on the body, that there will be no signs of through corrosion.

And now the concept of “galvanization” begins to blow, opponents will again say that it simply isn’t there (this is a LADA, NOT a MERCEDES), others say that it is there and that the parts are reliably protected. So where is the truth? Today we’ll break down whether it’s there or not

• Is VESTA galvanized?
• Four types of technologies
• How else to protect the body
• Why use a primer for galvanizing?
• About myths
• VIDEO VERSION

Starting the article, I would like to quote the words of one “mega-expert” from a specialized forum (I will not rewrite it verbatim), but this is the meaning. There used to be VAZ 2101s - the metal was of high quality, that’s why it didn’t rot! But now I don’t understand why, that’s why they cover it with all sorts of crap – “anti-corrosion”, “galvanization” and so on. I would like to immediately object to him, these methods are responses to modern road conditions.

Previously, when “KOPEYKA” appeared, there were very few cars, I remember the winters - the snow from the roads was practically not cleared (only the main highways), there were no reagents. And what now - the roads, even at minus 10, are somehow wet, all because they are simply covered in reagents that corrode snow and ice, respectively, the body, paint and even tires (and what can I say, sometimes even boots don’t work for the season).

Under such conditions, the entire “2101” would have rotted in a couple of years! So they protect modern cars, in a modern way, excuse the tautology.

Is VESTA galvanized?

YES there is a fairly decent layer. It’s hard to call it a reference, but to say that it simply isn’t there is IMPOSSIBLE!

In general, all external parts are processed, these are the doors, roof, hood, trunk lid, body pillar, etc. BUT INSIDE (in the cabin) there is NO treatment, only outside and only those parts that come into contact with the external environment.

The technology used by AVTOVAZ is the cheapest and far from the standard; it is powder coating by spraying.

Four types of technologies

A little about why zinc (Zn) protects steel - it is a non-ferrous metal, has a more negative potential and corrodes first (that is, when it collapses, it protects the coating underneath), and the protection works even when it is damaged or partially destroyed.

It becomes clear that the larger and thicker the zinc layer, the longer the car body is preserved and no corrosion occurs.

To apply particles of protective metal to the body, there are only four main technologies, I will list them from best to worst.

• Hot method. When the fully assembled body is dipped into a bath filled with zinc. Moreover, the temperature stays around 460 – 500 degrees Celsius. The method is very expensive and costly. Used by expensive brands on luxury cars - PORSHE, VOLVO, now on some premium HYUNDAI, etc.

• Galvanic method. The method consists in the process of deposition on the cathode (in our case, part of the body), positively charged particles (ions) of zinc from aqueous solutions (electrolytes). This technology works by passing a direct electric current through it. This is a less expensive and simpler technology, used by Mercedes, BMW, TOYOTA, Honda, Mitsubishi, KIA, etc.
• Zinc metal. It is used mainly by KIA, on cars from the “C” class. This is a kind of plastic coating that consists of two layers.
• Cold method. In essence, this is a kind of painting. A powder is applied to the body parts, which contains small particles of zinc powder. Used by many brands (Chevrolet, KIA, HYUNDAI, TOYOTA) including AVTOVAZ.

As you understand, VESTA is processed using the third technology; you choose where and in what volume to apply this layer.

This is where the disadvantages appear, namely the uniformity and thickness of the coating. It is also worth remembering that this layer is not 100% corrosion protection; it needs to be further strengthened.

How else to protect the body

If you leave only galvanization (which, by the way, is NOT inside the cabin), then such a body will not last long. After all, moisture, air, dust, etc. can also get into the cavity; all this can cause oxidation and then corrosion.

Therefore, to protect the inside (in cavities), a primer is used. Moreover, it is applied in two layers, and of course not with brushes, but with the help of technology - “CATAPHORESIS”. The body is lowered into the bath and soil particles settle onto the surface. Moreover, there are two such layers on the LADA VESTA!

Applying two layers of primer provides good protection - after all, the steel is “sealed”, and air access is practically excluded

Next, a layer of enamel is applied to the primed surface, followed by a finishing varnish. That is, it turns out to be a kind of multi-layer cake:

It should be noted that this is very good protection that will allow the body to operate even in difficult conditions for more than 6 years!

Why use a primer for galvanizing?

If everything is clear on the inside, there is no protective layer and primer is required - but why apply it to the outside, where there is galvanization?

If you remember, I wrote above that the larger the layer of this non-ferrous metal, the longer the body steel lasts. SO - the layer that is sprayed is not so large and it needs to be further strengthened.

According to materials science reference books, a ZINC layer 100 microns thick is enough for about 87 years. And the thickness of the “cold method” on the VESTA body is 10 microns

That is, ideally it should be enough for 8.7 years, that is, almost 9 years. However, AVTOVAZ does not provide a guarantee for such a period, due to several factors:

• Application is carried out by spraying, and there is no guarantee against defects (especially if painted by hand).
• As practice has shown, the layer is often about 8 microns

Thus, they extended a 6-year warranty on the body; by the way, when this model was launched, they wanted to give it 4–5 years. Now technology has improved a little.

Source: https://camaro-club.ru/vaz/kuzov-lady-vesty-otsinkovan-ili-net

How to galvanize a body

Every car enthusiast tries to maintain and care for his iron horse as best as possible. And this is not surprising, because not everyone can afford frequent car purchases, and repairs are not cheap. In addition, as the great driver wisdom says: “It is easier to prevent a breakdown than to fix it.” Therefore, every driver regularly carries out various preventive measures and maintenance of his vehicle.

In order to extend the life of your car and not bother too much with repairs throughout its entire service life, it is necessary to protect it from the destructive effects of destructive environmental factors, which, in turn, will increase the life of the car body and its other components. And as you know, the body is the main component of the durability of a vehicle.

In order to protect the body of the vehicle, special measures are taken to protect the metal from destruction and also prevent the processes of rusting and corrosion.

One of the most common methods of protecting the body is galvanizing it, which is recommended to be carried out immediately after purchasing the car. This process is not very complicated or time-consuming, so every driver can do it independently in his garage.

We will tell you in this article what is needed for this and in what order the work is performed.

Advantages of galvanizing the body

As mentioned earlier, galvanizing protects the body and other parts of the vehicle from any negative environmental influences or various chemicals that lead to its destruction. Therefore, having done galvanizing just once, you will forever forget about repairs and filling holes in the body. In addition, galvanizing requires significantly less financial investment than further car repairs.

Most modern automobile manufacturers galvanize only the bottom of their products, since it is this part of the body that suffers more than others from destructive environmental factors. To do this, the bottom of the body is covered with a special metal that is highly resistant to chemical reactions and oxidation.

Zinc is most often used as a protective metal because it has low cost and high performance characteristics.

Galvanizing technologies

Today, at the production stage of a machine, three types of galvanizing are used: galvanic, thermal and cold. Each manufacturer uses different types of galvanizing for their cars. Some also use the technology of applying molten zinc to the vehicle body at the rental stage.

It is also worth noting that thermal galvanizing can be used both on the outside of the body and on the inside. Galvanic galvanizing technology involves immersing the body in a zinc electrolyte, which, under the influence of an electric current, interacts with the metal of the body and reliably adheres to it.

Most often, this galvanizing method is used by Japanese and some European automobile concerns.

The latter type of galvanizing is used in the production of budget car models, since it is one of the cheapest. However, low cost is accompanied by quality at an appropriate level. Cold galvanizing is performed by applying zinc to the vehicle body using an aerosol.

Do-it-yourself galvanizing of the body

If you decide to galvanize the car body yourself, then it is immediately worth noting that there is no question of any thermal technology due to the complexity of its implementation. However, there is one galvanizing method that every car enthusiast can do with his own hands in his garage without any problems. We will talk about it further.

So, in order to galvanize your vehicle, simply follow these instructions: 1. Buy a solution of salt or zinc chloride from a specialized store. If there are no such stores in your city or you could not find it, then you will have to make it yourself. To do this, it is necessary to dissolve zinc chloride in hydrochloric or sulfuric acid in a ratio of 0.4:1.

You can find everything you need at any radio parts store. It is worth noting that when preparing the solution, it is necessary to pour the acid into the container with the zinc and in no case vice versa.

However, it is forbidden to do this indoors, since the reaction process releases a large amount of hydrogen, which is highly flammable and can cause an explosion. 2. In order to make sure that the solution is ready, you need to add a little new zinc to it.

If no hydrogen is released, then the acid has been produced. 3. Filter the liquid from the formed precipitate. 4. The minus current source is connected to the part that you want to galvanize, and the plus is connected to the zinc plate.

5. Both elements are dipped into the zinc electrolyte that we obtained earlier, after which voltage is applied. As a current source, you can use a car battery or any other source with a voltage of 12 volts. Under the influence of current, zinc dissolves and then settles on the body or any other part of the car. It is worth noting that you should avoid getting wires into the solution, as this will reduce all efforts to zero.

AutoBrains.ru

How to galvanize the car body and parts with your own hands?

Galvanization is done to protect the car body from corrosion and the effects of various chemical compounds of the road surface. The use of zinc is dictated by its low cost and pronounced chemical and physical properties. Today we will talk about the main types of galvanizing metal, how to galvanize metal yourself at home, and what you will need for this.

Did you know? The Audi 80 is the first production car with a galvanized body, and since 1986, all cars of this company have been produced with a zinc layer of 2-10 microns on all metal surfaces.

Types of metal galvanizing

Today, three main types of galvanizing are used: galvanic, thermal and cold.

Galvanic galvanizing

Galvanic – aging a finished part in a bath containing zinc electrolyte. The current acts on the zinc, and it sticks to the metal surface of the body. This type of galvanizing is popular among European and Japanese car manufacturers.

Thermal galvanizing

Thermal galvanizing - the finished body is immersed in molten zinc. This is a very effective galvanizing method that reliably protects the car body even after further processing. It is unlikely that it will be possible to carry it out at home. Cars from Volvo, Ford, Porsche and GM brands undergo this treatment.

Did you know? Mercedes and BMW companies treat their car models using galvanizing.

Cold galvanizing

This is a method in which finely dispersed zinc in the form of paint is applied to the surface of the car body, after it has been cleaned of rust and dirt. This galvanizing method is not as reliable as the previous ones, but it is much cheaper, and that is why it is used for galvanizing the bodies of economy options.

Did you know? The Kia company uses a special material in the production of its cars - zinc metal, which increases the degree of corrosion resistance and service life.

How to make galvanization in a garage

You won’t be able to carry out thermal galvanizing of a car body at home, but cold and galvanizing is quite possible. When galvanizing metal at home, bathing the car body in a bath with electrolyte is not carried out. Using this method, you can galvanize only a separate part of the machine body with your own hands, after cleaning its surface from rust and dirt.

Important! You cannot use rust destroyers or phosphoric acid, but if you still cannot do without them, then the part must be treated with an aqueous solution of soda.

As for cold galvanizing, it can be used in garage conditions without any problems, even if you have never done this before. The solution is applied either with a roller, or with a brush, or with a spray gun - in any way convenient for you, and dries very quickly.

This galvanizing can be used when it is necessary to process hard-to-reach parts.

How to prepare a solution for galvanizing

Before galvanizing the body of your car with your own hands, you will need to prepare a zinc-containing solution. You will need pure zinc and sulfuric acid, which can be bought at the car market or in amateur radio stores, a container of the required size that is resistant to acid, and also some kind of power source (a regular car battery or charger is quite suitable for this).

To actually prepare the solution, you need to put a piece of zinc in a prepared container and pour acid into it in small doses (400 g of metal per 1 liter of acid). Remember! Follow safety regulations. Be sure to protect your respiratory system, eyes and hands. Once the zinc has completely dissolved, make sure the acid has reacted completely.

This can be done by adding another piece of zinc to the resulting solution: if you do not observe a reaction with the release of bubbles, then the solution is ready for use.

Step by step guide to galvanizing a car

To galvanize metal at home with your own hands, you need to do the following:

1. Take the solution you prepared.
2. Separate the clear solution from the liquid sediment.
3. Connect the minus of the current source to the part that needs to be galvanized.
4. Plus connect to a piece of zinc metal.
5. At a certain distance, place the zinc and the part in the resulting solution and apply voltage.

   The usual 12 V from a car battery and charger will be sufficient. Thanks to the current, the dissolved zinc will settle on the parts, and a piece of metallic zinc will dissolve and enrich the solution.

6. If everything goes well, the part will be covered with a uniform layer of gray, but if the process was very fast, the metal will darken or become loose. Therefore, the current should be no higher than 1 A.

7. When the galvanizing process is complete, you need to wash the part in a soda solution to neutralize any remaining acid.

Important! The wire connected to the piece of zinc should not come into contact with the solution, otherwise a reaction will occur and the entire galvanizing process will go down the drain.

If you follow the instructions for galvanizing a car body in a garage with your own hands and adhere to safety rules, then you will be able to handle everything.

Source: https://autoprivat.ru/remont_avto/kak_ocinkovat_kuzov.html

Is it necessary to make anticorrosive new?

It seems like the world has gone crazy. It seems that automakers have invented a super method that has forever solved the problem of car body corrosion. We are talking about the fashionable zinc body treatment, which is used to coat all new cars today.

Naturally, car companies in their advertising brochures try to convince their consumers that a galvanized body reliably protects the car from rust.

But in the end, the majority of car enthusiasts (especially the younger generation of people) think that such “galvanization” will allow the body to serve for quite a long time, which led them to the next thought, they began to seriously believe that modern cars do not need any anticorrosive. But not everything is as simple as they think.

Yes, it is certainly true that zinc coating of the body reliably protects the metal of the body from corrosion. But there is one thing. Unfortunately, zinc itself does not provide any guarantees that the very rust in question will not appear on your car for a long time. It all depends on how the galvanization of a given body was done, which elements of the car were coated with zinc, what thickness of the zinc layer was applied to the body elements of the vehicle, and so on. and so on.

Naturally, the more thoroughly the body is treated with galvanized coating, the more reliably the car body is protected from rust formation. But not all cars have the same thickness of galvanized coating. This is directly related to the cost of a particular machine model.

Each of us should be well aware that an economy class car is not as well zinc-treated as the same premium class model, otherwise such a cheap car would cost much more.

From this, everyone will draw their own conclusion. And no one knows for sure how car manufacturers coat their cars with galvanized coating. These are the internal quality standards of the auto industry itself, which it is unlikely that anyone will ever reveal to you.

Only one thing is known for certain: today, automakers use several types of such galvanization of the body of their products, namely:

— Cold galvanized.

— Galvanic galvanization.

— Hot galvanized.

The most unreliable galvanized coating is considered to be cold. With this method of galvanizing cars, a special primer layer of the body is used, which contains zinc powder, which in theory protects the body from corrosion. This is the cheapest galvanizing method, which, unfortunately, is used today by many automobile brands of automakers producing inexpensive cars, i.e.

the same economy segment. The disadvantage of this galvanization lies in the fact that if any chips, scratches, etc. form on the paintwork of the body.

defects that damage the primer layer of the body containing zinc, the metal of the car body in these places remains unprotected, and as a result of this, rust begins to form, that is, scientifically speaking, real metal corrosion appears.

Galvanic galvanization is considered more reliable, but in terms of its characteristics in protecting the body it is still inferior to hot galvanizing of metal, which, unfortunately, is used only on cars of the premium segment class, since this method of galvanizing the body is considered one of the most expensive and therefore significantly affects the final cost of production.

What body parts are galvanized in the car?

Volkswagen body galvanization

Also, most automakers, for marketing purposes in advertising, often tell their consumers that their cars have galvanized car bodies. Most consumers begin to believe them that the entire body of their car brand is galvanized. But in reality, everything is different; not all body elements of most modern cars are galvanized and protected from corrosion.

Today in the modern car market there are new cars that have galvanized protection only on certain body elements.

For example, most often automakers treat the car's sills, bottom, arches and fenders with zinc, but for some reason they forget to galvanize the doors themselves, the hood, the trunk, etc. details.

Yes, there are certainly new cars that have almost the entire body galvanized. But we must not forget that there are certain nuances here too.

For example, some of certain body components have a very thin galvanized layer. Let's say that the same fenders, hood, trunk and even sills have a not very thick galvanized layer, while the arches and bottom are covered with a thicker layer of zinc.

But in the end, it turns out that the car is almost or almost completely galvanized, but due to the large difference in the galvanized layer, some parts of the body are at greater risk of corrosion compared to those parts that have a thicker layer of galvanized surface.

Naturally, taking into account our harsh winter conditions and aggressive road reagents, ready to corrode everything they come across, some of the body parts of even a new car can very quickly, as they say, bloom.

Yes, and this is natural, compared to old cars, modern cars can resist the same rust much better. This became possible thanks to new technologies for painting the body at the car plant, and primarily due to, of course, new galvanizing methods.

But we must still remember that miracles do not happen and galvanization itself cannot change the laws of physics or chemistry. Sooner or later, this insidious rust will do its evil work and begin to destroy your car.

And first of all, in those places where the body is not covered with a galvanized layer or in those places where the layer of zinc applied is too small. In particular, this corrosion on the body can appear over time even in those places where the galvanized layer is already damaged.

Especially when your vehicle is zinc plated using the cold process method.

Is it necessary to carry out anti-corrosion treatment on the body of a new car?

Applying galvanized primer coat to Nissan Qashqai

This question probably concerns all happy owners of new cars and, moreover, everyone without exception. Unfortunately, many car owners believe that doing anticorrosion on a new car is a waste of money. But in fact, this is a big mistake. You can't be so confident in a car manufacturer's integrity. You don’t even know and can’t know which body parts are galvanized and what layer of zinc is applied to them.

Yes, that's right, all automakers today protect car bodies from corrosion right at the factory. But this does not mean that a galvanized car is forever and reliably protected from rust. After all, the body of your car contains metal and not plastic, which, when interacting with oxygen and moisture, will sooner or later begin to rust anyway. And often this happens from within.

Thus, you need to remember that galvanizing the body itself will not completely protect a modern car from rust, although it in itself significantly extends the life of the car if you compare a modern body with old cars that could completely rot in just a few years of operation.

Therefore, we advise that when buying a new car, it is better to carry out a thorough anticorrosive treatment of all body parts that are most susceptible to aggressive external environment. In any case, know for the future that it is better to do anti-corrosion treatment on the entire body than not to do it. Anticorrosive will not harm the car.

Thanks to this anti-corrosion treatment, you will always have peace of mind, even in the event of dishonesty of the automaker itself, which often advertises the zinc coating of the entire body.

A striking example of this is the recently identified problem with Hyundai Creta crossovers, whose owners began to complain about the appearance of rust on the body of their new cars. Moreover, there are also cases where this rust appeared after just a few months of owning the car.

Details here.

Why do some automakers provide a 10-year or more warranty against body corrosion?

Yes, indeed, many automobile companies today provide a factory guarantee for through body corrosion for 10 years or more. But this is the same, a kind of advertising marketing ploy of the car plant. After all, such a guarantee has many pitfalls and limitations.

For example, if your car has been in an accident, then the factory warranty for body corrosion may already be limited or simply terminated altogether. Also, the validity of such a guarantee depends specifically on the operating conditions of the car, that is, on how and where the car is washed, etc.

and so on.

Source: http://www.1gai.ru/baza-znaniy/sovety/519431-nuzhno-li-delat-antikor-novym-ocinkovannym-avtomobilyam.html

Galvanized body

Today, galvanization is used on almost all manufactured vehicles. But in some cases, rust still appears on a galvanized body. Let's tell you why this happens.

What is galvanizing

Galvanizing is one of the most popular ways to protect metal surfaces from corrosion. The galvanizing process is indispensable in industry and in everyday life; it helps to extend the service life of the metal. A layer of zinc is applied to the surface, which protects it from environmental influences. A thin but durable protective film is formed on the metal, preventing corrosion.

Why are galvanized parts more resistant to corrosion than plain steel?

An ordinary steel structure without additional treatment can become rusty after the first rain. The zinc composition not only forms a durable layer, but also penetrates into the upper layers of the metal, which enhances protection.

The degree of efficiency of body galvanizing depends on the chosen technology. Hot-dip galvanized or galvanized steel resists rust best. Other methods are considered cheaper and less reliable.

Despite the excellent protective qualities of zinc, rust can still appear on the body. This happens in two cases: when the zinc layer is damaged and when it oxidizes.

Damage to the zinc layer

Effective body protection is maintained as long as the zinc layer is sufficiently thick. If the galvanization is depleted or damaged, the degree of protection is reduced. Any external damage increases the risk of rust on the car. In addition, while protecting the steel, the zinc layer takes on the negative influence of the environment and begins to deplete over time. Such problems can be avoided by promptly eliminating even minimal damage to the surface.

Zinc oxidation

“White” rust often appears on zinc surfaces. The cause is continuous exposure to moisture. Water gradually destroys the zinc layer. As a result of constant exposure, zinc reacts with water, forming poorly soluble salt deposits. In such cases, additional treatment with a water-repellent agent or barrier coating will help protect the body.

Galvanizing technology allows you to reliably protect your car from corrosion. But galvanization is not a panacea, but only an additional means of protection. If the top layer is damaged, the galvanized body may rust.

Source: https://avtozvuk-info.ru/sovet/otsinkovanniy-kuzov

How to restore zinc coating: tips and secrets

If you need to restore zinc coating, then most likely you are faced with one of the problems:

1. The galvanized coating was damaged during transportation and broke off in places.
2. Galvanizing was done poorly - new protection is needed.
3. The galvanizing wears out over time and begins to rust.  
4. The edges of the structures were damaged after welding.

Solving all these problems is quite easy! In all cases, you can coat the damaged area with cold galvanizing compound.  

We will tell you what is needed for this and how best to restore the zinc coating.
 

The coating can be restored qualitatively only with paint containing zinc. 

The peculiarity of galvanized products is that, due to the high zinc content in the film, cathodic protection is provided. This means that the zinc “sacrifices” itself to protect the base metal. The coating will not corrode even if damaged. The photo below shows an example of damaged zinc coating “Barrier-ZINK” after immersion for a long time in sea water.  

There is no corrosion even in damaged areas
 

Regular paint or primer is not suitable for restoration

If you paint over damaged areas with a regular primer or 3-in-1 paint, you will simply hide the metal from corrosion for a short period of time. Corrosion will still appear in a month or two, perhaps immediately after the rain has passed. Even if you don’t see corrosion, it will appear under the paint, since the paint does not have cathodic protection, which we talked about a little earlier.

It is also worth understanding that the presence of zinc in paint does not provide a 100% guarantee against corrosion. Not all zinc coatings can protect metal from corrosion for a long time. Below in the photo is an example of low-quality paint with zinc:  

As we can see, the coating peels off and bubbles appear on it. This is because the coating was done simply with zinc paint and not with a cold galvanizing compound.

This is impossible with our coatings.
 

Is the galvanized color gray or silver?

To ensure that the color of the restored area does not differ from the previously galvanized layer, an additional coating with Aluminum is applied. We are often asked, is it possible to immediately apply an aluminum layer? It is possible, but then there will be no cathodic protection and corrosion will soon begin to appear.

Therefore, it is optimal to apply:

• Zinc layer (~ 40-80 microns in 1-2 passes)
• Aluminum layer (~ 40 µm)

1. To protect and restore the coating, it is necessary to apply a composition with zinc
2. If an appearance similar to hot-dip galvanizing is required, additionally apply a compound containing Aluminum.
    

Recovery technology 

The application technology itself is not complicated and at first glance does not differ from applying conventional paint, but there are nuances. 

Important points when using:

• In order for the protection to be long-term and electrochemical contact to occur, the metal surface must be completely clean. Nothing should interfere with the contact between the coating and the metal.
• For better adhesion, roughen the surface.
• Stir the composition every 15-20 minutes, zinc is heavy and settles.

Figures about the ZINKOR company:

• More than 120 tons of products shipped in 2018
• Our regular customers are more than 450 enterprises (from small forges to large factories)
• More than 500 private clients bought our coatings in 2018

What to buy to restore coverage

Cold galvanizing is a very convenient and multifunctional technique. Damage and defects that occurred during installation or operation of the structure can be quickly and efficiently eliminated with a minimum of time and money. We offer you compositions with which you can restore the protective coating quickly, easily and economically:

Do you need advice and help in choosing the right composition?

Source: https://zincor-lkm.ru/articles/holodnoe-cinkovanie/vosstanovlenie_cinkovogo_pokrytiya/