How to attach formwork for armored belt
In private residential buildings made of block materials, in order to create additional protection against displacement and deformation of load-bearing walls and structural elements, the construction of an armored belt is provided.
A similar reinforced concrete structure is built around the perimeter of the house.
It allows you to reduce and redistribute stress on the walls and foundation that appears as a result of seismic activity, the influence of wind, and loads from the internal structural elements of the house. But in order to properly make such a building assembly, you will need to install reliable formwork.
Formwork installation
It usually consists of panels made of wood or plywood, needed to give the concrete the necessary dimensions and shape.
It can be vertical - columns and supports - and horizontal. To make an armored belt, you need horizontal formwork.
The basic requirements for such a design are:
- Strength;
- Rigidity;
- Waterproof;
- Easy to install and remove;
- Possibility of secondary use;
- Small price.
When erecting a building, the reinforcing belt is made several times. This number depends on how many floors there are in the house, what the material of the walls and ceilings is. The main load-bearing reinforced belt is poured at the stage of foundation construction. The safety of the building depends on how well it is made.
The second belt is installed on the foundation blocks under the floor slabs or plinth. Then the armored belt is installed floor by floor up to the roof, laying floor slabs above them.
The formwork structure must be installed immediately along the perimeter of the belt filling. If this is not possible, then first place it at the corners and junctions of the walls. To obtain a smoother surface, the panels are coated with polyethylene.
Material selection
Before installing the formwork under the armored belt, you need to select the appropriate material. It could be:
- Metal;
- Tree;
- Sheet materials - chipboard, plywood, plastic;
- Combinations of different materials.
The type of wall mounting depends on the material used. Formwork elements for the reinforcing belt are often made from planed edged boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm and a width of 150–200 mm.
The use of wider boards is impractical; they become deformed due to humidity, and the armored belt will turn out uneven. The boards are mounted into panels, the bottom of which is called the deck.
Height of armored belt
The height of a typical armored belt is 300 mm, and its width corresponds to the thickness of the wall or foundation slab. To assemble the formwork you need to stock up on planed boards.
The nails are driven in from the inside, piercing the boards through, and bent on the other side. The boards are connected with bars or cuttings of boards.
Fastening wooden formwork
An economical temporary structure can be assembled from boards using the following technological method:
- The lower part - the starting board - is attached to the walls along the perimeter of the building on both sides. It is usually fixed with screws.
- Subsequent formwork boards are placed above the first and hammered into panels using scraps of timber or planks. Before attaching the boards, you need to make sure that they are vertical.
- As a result, along the perimeter of the walls you should get a rectangle without gaps with a sidewall height of 300 mm.
The required rigidity is given to the formwork by vertically stuffing scraps of boards. They are attached from the outside every 700 mm. It is necessary to install wire ties between the parallel panels in increments of 80–100 cm so that the pressure of the concrete does not squeeze out the wooden barriers.
The final part of the installation is checking the quality of installation. Make sure that the structure has sufficient strength to prevent it from falling apart under the pressure of the concrete solution. Check the verticality of the sidewalls so that the armored belt does not come out crooked.
Inspect the shape of the structure for any cracks, this will help prevent concrete leakage.
Small cracks are covered with tow or polyurethane foam; those larger than 10 mm in width are clogged with an overhead lath.
The armored belt formwork is fixed to a wall made of brick or foam block using hardware 9–10 cm long. Holes are drilled in the sidewall and wall in increments of 70–100 cm into which dowels are installed, then the panels are pressed tightly against the wall with self-tapping screws.
The use of nails is not recommended, since when they are driven in, the structure may move, which will disrupt the strength of the fixation to the wall.
Installation on foundation blocks is somewhat more complicated. The width of such a block is 600 mm; much more concrete mortar will be required than on a wall reinforced belt. This structure is made from boards 35–40 mm thick. It should be secured differently. The sidewalls are tightened together using studs and nuts through holes drilled in the panels.
Pieces of pipes that are the length of the width of the formwork are placed on the studs. Any will do, as long as the pin moves inside without any problems.
The hairpin with a pipe serves as a support and lower fastening of the shields. The top is secured with bars. After the concrete has set, the formwork is removed. First, the upper and then the lower clamps are removed, and the shields are dismantled. The studs are carefully removed from the pipes. Then the pipes are sealed with mortar or foamed with polyurethane foam.
If there are no studs, they can be replaced with wooden blocks installed inside the formwork and secured to the panels with self-tapping screws. After dismantling, the bars remain in the concrete.
Installation of permanent formwork
The easiest option for self-constructing an armored belt. The use of ready-made blocks allows you to quickly create a concrete structure.
The use of polystyrene foam blocks helps to get rid of cold bridges that inevitably appear in an unprotected reinforced concrete belt.
Formwork blocks are produced in different sizes and shapes, which facilitates quick and easy installation of an armored belt of the required size. For simplicity, they are equipped with tongue-and-groove locks, this further simplifies the work.
Manufacturing of reinforcement cage
Further arrangement of the armored belt consists of laying the reinforcement cage. For reinforcement, steel rods with a cross-section of 8 mm or more are used. They are fastened to each other with wire and placed in a mold in a horizontal position.
Every 50 cm, the rods are secured with a ring of soft steel wire.
Pouring concrete
Concrete can be fed into the formwork from a mixer tray or directly from a concrete pump. In the latter case, a higher quality mixture with additives is proposed. But this option is more expensive.
You can save money and make a chute through which concrete will be supplied yourself. Or use a bell. It is filled with cement mortar, then, at the right place, the drain hole is opened, and the mixture goes into the formwork. It needs to be properly leveled.
During pouring, it is necessary to remove air bubbles from the concrete mixture - they accelerate the destruction of the structure.
This is usually done using deep vibrators. If permanent formwork is installed, their use is undesirable.
Watch the video:
The sides of the removable formwork are removed after a couple of days, and the deck three days later so that the concrete can set better. A clean and dried structure can be used again.
Source: https://betfundament.com/kak-krepit-opalubku-dlya-armopoyasa/
How to properly harden and swim: instructions for beginners
In order not to get sick in winter, to become physically resilient and to have a cheerful spirit, you need to harden yourself. This process is gradual and requires compliance with basic rules. And after hardening, you can take up winter swimming and dive into an ice hole in the coldest weather.
Hardening brings great benefits. Its mechanism of action is based on irritation of receptors, located in large numbers on the skin, and affecting the entire body. The procedure increases the tone of the dermis and cardiovascular system, reduces arrhythmia. Strengthens the nervous system and gives a boost of energy for the whole day.
Accelerates metabolic processes in the body and promotes weight loss. Hardening activities lead to strengthening of the immune system and improve resistance to viral diseases. The thermoregulation system, whose work is based on maintaining a constant body temperature relative to external environmental conditions, copes faster and better.
But hardening must be done correctly.
Contraindications for hardening and winter swimming
Hardening is a stressful situation for the body. And this procedure is not suitable for everyone. Instead of a positive effect, when the body is strengthened and rejuvenated, irreparable harm is caused. There is an exacerbation of chronic diseases, a cold appears, which can turn into inflammation of the respiratory system.
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There are a number of contraindications for those who should not engage in hardening:
- autoimmune diseases such as vasculitis, lupus erythematosus and others;
- diseases of the genitourinary system and respiratory organs;
- diseases of the cardiovascular system - coronary heart disease, obliterating diseases of the peripheral arteries and heart failure.
Elderly people should approach the procedures with caution. A sharp temperature contrast leads to heart attacks, strokes, and the development of diseases of the nervous or cardiovascular systems.
There is always an alternative to hardening - sports with moderate loads. After all, the main goal is to strengthen the body, and not to harm yourself.
If the body does not tolerate cold well
Hardening with cold water gradually develops the habit of not reacting sharply to cold. However, there are people who have a very difficult and slow time adapting to low temperatures.
This depends on several factors:
- A small layer of fat. The natural protective barrier does not stop the cold. It affects the internal organs and causes severe chills. If there is anemia and hypothyroidism, when the thyroid gland is not active enough.
- Raynaud's phenomenon. It leads to vasospasm in the extremities.
Many diseases are treatable. It is necessary to eliminate the cause so that it does not feel bad after dousing with cold water. Only a healthy body will benefit from hardening and give a good mood.
How to temper yourself correctly
It is important to follow the basic recommendations for dousing with cold water so as not to harm your health and strengthen the body.
Rule No. 1: Start hardening only when the body is healthy
If you have chronic diseases in remission or the body has not fully recovered from a cold or viral disease, you should first wait for a complete recovery and only then begin hardening procedures.
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Examine the body.
A contraindication to cold dousing is the presence of serious damage to the skin. These include purulent inflammation. Exposure to ice water will cause an even larger abscess. People who suffer from high eye pressure experience vasospasm after exposure to cold. This leads to serious complications, including retinal detachment.
For those suffering from high or low blood pressure, you should be careful not to provoke a crisis.
It is advisable to undergo an examination by a doctor before starting hardening and get his recommendations.
Rule #2: Temper up gradually to avoid stress
Not everyone is accustomed to endure being doused with cold water steadfastly and with pleasure. It is important to have a positive attitude towards getting healthy from the very beginning. To maintain a positive mood, start small - with your morning wash.
If you are in the habit of using water at room temperature, then lower it by one degree every day. This will not lead to stress, will give you vigor and motivate you for further more extensive hardening.
Rule No. 3: Maintain regularity and do not take breaks
Hardening is a system. It starts with something small: washing, wiping with a cold towel or dousing your feet. Everyone decides for themselves which method to choose. Gradually the body gets used to the cold. This process must not be disrupted. Once we started, we need to continue.
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Long trips, outdoor recreation or other changes in location should not become an obstacle to the hardening process. If there is a break, you will have to start again.
Winter swimming rules
Winter swimming is a quick dive into icy water or a short swim over a short distance. The body instantly loses heat and not everyone can withstand such an event. They prepare for it thoroughly.
After long-term and daily procedures of small exposure to cold water on the body, it is prepared for even greater cold loads.
To switch to winter swimming:
Start taking a shower. First, cool water - 36°C. Lower the temperature by 1°C every day. After dousing, move actively to increase blood circulation. Rub your body with a dry and warm towel to warm up.
Stay warm. Drink hot tea and warm your feet. Avoid alcoholic drinks.
Go out into the frosty air every day, lightly dressed. Walk for 2-3 minutes at first. Gradually increase the duration to accustom your body to the cold.
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When you feel ready to dive into the hole, follow the rules:
- Warm up well with physical exercises before swimming. Wear shoes when going to the dive site so as not to get hypothermic and not get injured on the ice. Don't dive in head first. It contains cold-sensitive vessels. Spasm and serious health consequences are possible. Only experienced walruses allow themselves to dive headlong.
- After swimming, be sure to dry yourself with a warm towel and do active exercises.
- Then rub your body. The direction of movement is from the limbs to the body. Massage your lower back, stomach and chest clockwise.
- Active actions after diving make the blood circulate faster and the blood vessels dilate.
Good health, vigor and high spirits indicate that the preparation for winter swimming went well. Continue diving into the ice hole, but no more than 3 times a week. Exposure to low temperatures causes stress in the body and requires 1 to 3 days to restore resources.
If the chill from the cold does not go away after diving, then the body needs additional time to get used to the ice water.
It is worth resuming dousing with cold water and holding off on swimming in the ice hole. During the coldest months of winter, take a break to avoid hypothermia and illness. An alternative to diving is running for several kilometers and active sports. Published by econet.ru
*Ekonet.ru articles are intended for informational and educational purposes only and do not replace professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult your physician with any questions you may have about a medical condition.
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Source: https://econet.ru/articles/kak-pravilno-zakalyatsya-i-morzhevat-instruktsiya-dlya-novichkov
Reinforcement of a monolithic slab: calculation and tying of reinforcement
Reinforcing a monolithic slab is a complex and responsible task. The structural element absorbs serious bending loads that concrete cannot cope with. For this reason, when pouring, reinforcement cages are installed, which strengthen the slab and prevent it from collapsing under load.
How to properly reinforce a structure? When performing a task, you need to follow several rules. When building a private house, they usually do not develop a detailed detailed design and do not make complex calculations. Due to the small loads, I believe that it is enough to comply with the minimum requirements that are presented in the regulatory documents. Also, experienced builders can lay reinforcement following the example of already made objects.
The slab in a building can be of two types:
In general, the reinforcement of the floor slab and the foundation slab does not have critical differences. But it is important to know that in the first case, rods of larger diameter will be required. This is due to the fact that under the foundation element there is an elastic foundation - the earth, which takes on part of the load. But the reinforcement scheme for the floor slab does not require additional reinforcement.
Foundation slab reinforcement
In this case, the reinforcement in the foundation is placed unevenly. It is necessary to strengthen the structure in places of greatest compression. If the thickness of the element does not exceed 150 mm, then the reinforcement for a monolithic foundation slab is performed with one mesh. This happens when building small structures. Thin slabs are also used under the porch.
For a residential building, the foundation thickness is usually 200-300 mm. The exact value depends on the characteristics of the soil and the mass of the building. In this case, the reinforcing mesh is laid in two layers one above the other. When installing frames, it is necessary to maintain a protective layer of concrete. It helps prevent metal corrosion. When constructing foundations, the size of the protective layer is taken to be 40 mm.
Reinforcement diameter
Before knitting reinforcement for the foundation, you will need to select its cross-section. The working rods in the slab are arranged perpendicularly in both directions. Vertical clamps are used to connect the top and bottom rows. The total cross-section of all rods in one direction must be at least 0.3% of the cross-sectional area of the slab in the same direction.
Reinforcement example
If the side of the foundation does not exceed 3 m, then the minimum permissible diameter of the working rods is set to 10 mm. In all other cases it is 12 mm. The maximum permissible cross-section is 40 mm. In practice, rods from 12 to 16 mm are most often used.
Before purchasing materials, it is recommended to calculate the mass of the required reinforcement for each diameter. Approximately 5% is added to the resulting value for unaccounted expenses.
Laying metal along the main width
Reinforcement schemes for a monolithic foundation slab along the main width assume constant cell dimensions. The pitch of the rods is assumed to be the same regardless of their location in the slab and direction. Usually it is in the range of 200-400 mm.
The heavier the building, the more often the monolithic slab is reinforced. For a brick house, it is recommended to set a distance of 200 mm; for a wooden or frame house, you can take a larger step value.
It is important to remember that the distance between parallel rods cannot exceed the thickness of the foundation by more than one and a half times.
Source: https://DomZastroika.ru/foundation/vypolnenie-pravilnogo-armirovaniya-monolitnoj-zhb-plity.html
How to cut composite reinforcement?
One of the main advantages of composite reinforcement is the simplicity of its cutting. Cutting of fiberglass reinforcement is carried out directly at the work site, which significantly reduces construction time. To cut rods to size, use the following tools:
- axe;
- bolt cutter;
- hacksaw for metal;
- angle grinder.
Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of each tool.
Angle grinder
When the question arises of how to cut fiberglass reinforcement for the foundation (we have already written in more detail about the material itself here), builders first of all remember the grinder. This tool allows you to cut a large amount of material efficiently, quickly and with minimal effort.
The advantages of using an angle grinder include:
- high speed;
- using a grinder you can cut a bunch of rods at once;
- mechanized cutting does not require much muscle strength;
- possibility of using discs with any cutting edge (for metal or stone).
Before cutting fiberglass reinforcement with a grinder, you need to take into account the disadvantages of working with this tool:
- It will not be possible to cut fiberglass with a grinder without dust. The high speed of rotation of the disk leads to the spraying of small particles of fiberglass into the air. Using an air blower to cool the tool's motor further spreads the composite dust. Therefore, when working with an angle grinder, you need to use eye and respiratory protection, especially if you are cutting reinforcement indoors;
- To operate an angle grinder, you must have an electrical connection point.
In general, the disadvantages are quite trivial.
Hacksaw for metal
If you only need to make a few cuts, you can use a regular hacksaw.
The use of hand tools provides the following advantages :
- Every owner has a hacksaw for metal. This is the easiest and cheapest way to cut a small number of rods for a bundle of reinforcement cage;
- no spraying of small particles, as is the case with an angle grinder.
Disadvantages of using a hacksaw for cutting composite reinforcement:
- low speed;
- high load on the employee if it is necessary to perform a large amount of work;
- Possibility of use only in individual construction with small volumes of work.
Bolt cutter
Before cutting composite rebar with a bolt cutter, you should also learn the pros and cons of working with this tool. You need to understand that the bolt cutter does not cut the composite rod, but rather cuts it, which affects the technical characteristics of the material.
Benefits of using a bolt cutter:
- no electrical connection required;
- When working with a bolt cutter, a large number of small particles are not formed, so rods can be prepared to size indoors;
- With a bolt cutter in your hands, you can move and work anywhere (no wires).
Disadvantages of using a bolt cutter:
- using a bolt cutter, you cannot cut more than 3 rods at the same time;
- when working with this tool, it is necessary to use significant muscle effort;
- A bolt cutter is rarely on the list of household tools. To operate, you will have to rent or buy it, which is not economically feasible;
- the use of a bolt cutter causes deformation of the material at the cut site (crumbs of material and longitudinal cracks appear at the end of the rod). Such deformation reduces the load-bearing capacity of the reinforcement and shortens its service life.
Axe
If funds are limited, an ax can also be used to prepare the reinforcement. It, like a bolt cutter, cuts the rod, which affects the condition of the reinforcement at the point of cutting.
Positive points:
- Every owner has an axe. There is no need to purchase the tool separately;
- speed. When preparing the base for cutting reinforcement, the work can be completed quite quickly.
Negative points:
- inaccuracy of the cut. Not every master can accurately and strongly hit the right place with an ax to cut a composite rod;
- deformation of the tip of the rod. During operation, water, cement, and alkali can get into longitudinal cracks, which will lead to a violation of the technical characteristics of fiberglass and weakening of the entire structure. With temperature changes, the split reinforcement inside the product will change in volume, which will lead to the destruction of concrete.
Recommendations for cutting composite reinforcement
Before cutting plastic reinforcement with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the safety precautions when performing work.
When working with electromechanical tools, the following protective equipment must be used:
- respirator. Small composite particles spread quickly in the air, especially if work is carried out indoors. To protect the respiratory system, it is necessary to wear a respirator and carefully adjust it to the size of the face;
- protective glasses. When cutting fiberglass with an angle grinder, small particles often fly off. Getting such particles into the eyes is fraught with damage to the integrity of the cornea and inflammatory processes. Therefore, protect the eyes with a mask or special glasses;
- gloves with a latex layer will protect the skin of your hands from small particles of fiberglass.
Next entry
Do I need to prime drywall before applying putty?
Source: https://blog.brigada174.ru/chem-rezat-kompozitnuju-armaturu/
