How to tension a chain-link mesh with a cable

How to stretch a chain-link mesh - technology and methods

After the initial stage of installing a chain-link fence has been completed: the posts are installed and securely fastened, you can begin the direct installation of the mesh itself.

Despite the fact that stretching a chain-link mesh is a relatively simple process, it is better to familiarize yourself with the theoretical part and choose the appropriate method. The choice of method for how to stretch the chain-link mesh onto the fence depends directly on the mounting location. It would be correct to break the entire fence into its component elements and carry out the work sequentially.

How to properly tension the chain-link mesh with your hands

The process can be divided into several stages in the form of instructions.

1. Unwinding the mesh

In turn, there are two approaches to unwinding.

The initial one involves installing a roll near one of the support posts, and unwinding the required length from the roll. The difficulty in this case is to unwind the twists that the chain-link wire forms when unwinding the roll. Due to the fact that the weight of the chain-link mesh in a roll is considerable, this work needs to be done by two people.

After the mesh reaches the nearest support post, it is fixed on it with a temporary clamp or piece of wire and the process continues further. If one roll is not enough, you can connect two rolls of chain-link mesh and continue working, fixing the mesh to the posts. To connect the rolls, the last turn of the previous roll is used, and care must be taken to ensure that there is no displacement.

The second method is more complicated, however, it will be the only possible one if you pull the mesh yourself (alone without assistants). In this case, a piece of the required length is unwound and leveled on the ground surface.

After all the twists that would not allow the mesh to be tensioned have been removed, the panel blank rises and is attached to the support post. This method is good only when the mesh is stretched in small pieces or stretched over a frame.

In this case, it is advisable to tie the pieces of mesh on a flat surface, and not on the weight. Material prepared for the website www.moydomik.net

Note. When stretching a non-galvanized chain-link mesh, the panel should be installed at a height of 100-150 mm above the ground surface. This will prevent its premature corrosion in the lower part.

2. Stretching near the pillars

Posts, in particular corner ones, are the supporting elements of the fence. Professionals do not recommend tying two pieces of mesh in this place.

How to stretch the chain-link onto the poles so that it is secure? Simple enough! To do this, work should begin with a pole located in the entrance area and securely fasten it.

But the corner pillars need to be wrapped with a net, while making sure that the cloth does not warp and is stretched with force. Skewing or weakening of the mesh will affect the appearance of the fence and its ability to resist sagging.

3. Weaving the support wire

The supporting wire, cable or reinforcement is designed to prevent the mesh from sagging under its own weight. With a fence height of up to 1,500 mm, you can only use the top broach. At higher heights (from 1500 to 2000 mm), it is advisable to use two broaches: top and body. If the height of the fence exceeds 2000 mm, you need to use another supporting wire - in the middle of the panel.

As a rule, the biggest problems arise with how to tension a chain-link mesh cable, which is why manufacturers have provided special tensioning devices for different types of broaches:

• wire pulling . The method involves fastening a wire (screwed onto a support post) on one side and stretching it on the other. For this, the following can be used: Pulling the chain-link with wire - a hook with a long thread, a lanyard of the “hook-hook” image . To do this, the wire is threaded at a distance of 30-50 mm from the edge, and then the lanyard is screwed until it stops. The remaining piece of mesh is loosely tensioned by hand and attached to the support post. Installing a mesh through a cable with a lanyard is one of the most economical and reliable methods. Tensioning a chain-link mesh through a cable with a lanyard is a wire tensioner . This is a special device that allows you to easily tension the wire for a chain-link mesh. A device for tensioning a chain-link mesh

Note. If the length of the fence exceeds 7 meters, it is recommended to install additional tension wires on intermediate posts. This is done in order to reduce the load on the outer supports and to improve the quality of the mesh tension. For fastening, special clamps (plastic or metal) are used that keep the wire from sagging.

Chain-link mesh pulling clampScheme for fixing and tensioning the chain-link mesh

4. Installation of chain-link mesh

A mesh is hung on a stretched pulling wire. In this case, the place where the wire passes can be the upper loop of each mesh element or the upper mesh cell.

The tension on the frame is done using hooks that are welded on the inside of the frame. To prevent the mesh panel from sagging in the frame, wire is also stretched between the hooks. Due to the insignificant distance between the hooks, it can be tightened manually.

In a similar way, a chain-link mesh is stretched over an enclosure or fence for animals. Only its length changes. But installing the mesh on a slope is more difficult, since it is necessary to maintain a certain angle of inclination. In this case, users are advised to install the mesh in separate pieces or give preference to a frame fence made of chain-link mesh.

Installation and tensioning of chain-link mesh - video

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After the tension is completed and the fastenings are introduced, you can put the chain-link fence into operation. The absence of distortions and sagging indicates that the mesh is tensioned correctly.

Accurate: Chainlink Mesh Fence Fencing

Source: https://polemo.ru/kak-natyanut-setku-rabitsu-tehnologiya-i-sposoby.html

All about chain-link fences: how to make and install them

Fencing an area is necessary for many reasons, and safety is one of them. When choosing a fencing option, many people opt for a mesh fence. The popularity of this material is due to its relative cheapness, ease of installation and provision of the required level of security for a summer cottage or cottage area. We will try to understand in detail all the other intricacies of using chain-link mesh in this article.

Chain-link fencing is a simple, effective and, as a rule, the most inexpensive way to mark the boundaries of your own site

Advantages of mesh fencing

Chain-link is an excellent option for quickly creating a fence, which, moreover, will be quite strong and lightweight. At the same time, it does not block the sun's rays, which does not create excessive shading. But, at the same time, if necessary, you can make the area not visible from the outside by attaching additional materials to the fence structure.

You can use plastic tape to decorate the mesh

If we talk about other advantages, it is necessary to note the following:

1. This material can be used for a long time.
2. A chain-link fence is quite strong and reliable, provided it is installed correctly.
3. Installation and dismantling is quite simple, so the site owner can handle it independently. But at the same time it is necessary to comply with all technological requirements.
4. Due to the fact that such a structure does not block the area from the rest of the outdoor area, visually the area appears larger.
5. Affordable price. This is especially felt when the area of ​​the site is large, when the fence being erected is quite long.

Chain link fencing is great as a temporary or permanent solution

But, despite the obvious advantages, there are still certain disadvantages:

1. Dirt and dust from outside easily penetrate into the site. This is especially evident when it is located directly next to a road or other objects that lead to air pollution.
2. In some cases, discomfort arises from the fact that the area is visible from the outside. But this point can be eliminated by using additional materials attached to the chain-link mesh.

Chain-link mesh is a fabric consisting of flat spirals twisted together

Types of chain-link mesh

A chain-link fence can be very diverse, depending on the material used and the method of tensioning and fastening the mesh. So, according to the materials used, the following are distinguished:

• Non-galvanized, which is the cheapest and therefore not durable material. Due to the absence of a zinc layer, the base material is subject to rapid rusting and warping. Such material must be painted immediately after installation and the preservation of the paint layer must be monitored. As soon as small chips form, rust will soon appear in this place. Therefore, in order to maintain such a fence, it is necessary to periodically renew the paint on it. Manipulation is carried out, at most, once every 2 years, or even more often. Mesh made of non-galvanized wire has a short service life
• Galvanized differs from the previous version in that a zinc layer is applied on top of the base metal. It is more expensive in price, but its operation is simpler. This is due to the fact that such a product does not require painting. And thanks to its resistance to negative environmental influences, a fence made of galvanized chain-link mesh can last longer. The galvanized coating extends the service life of the mesh by about 10 years
• Polymer, also called plastic chain-link mesh, consists entirely of polymers. It has a wide variety of color solutions, as well as cell sizes and shapes. Because of its relative softness and low strength, it is used for land surveying of an area adjacent to the neighboring one. But most often it is not used for fencing from an external street. Polymer mesh is produced in a variety of colors
• The plasticized version differs in the type of coating. In this case, a polymer is applied to the metal wire. This is the most popular and high-quality material. Due to the special technological polymer material, the products can be used under the most unfavorable weather conditions and exposure to aggressive environments. The combination of the strength of metal with the decorative properties of plastic makes the product the most popular and in demand

When choosing a plasticized chain-link mesh, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the wire used for its production. It should be dense enough and not sag when you try to deform it.

The produced mesh varies in wire thickness, mesh size and roll width

Sectional

If we consider a chain-link fence, we should take into account that in addition to the quality and materials of the mesh itself, there is also a method for fixing it during installation. There are options when the mesh itself is already built into a metal frame. Thus, a section with certain overall dimensions is formed.

Construction of a sectional fence based on a chain-link mesh

Such a product is obtained by welding metal guides and corners, which ultimately form rectangular or square sections. Their sizes most often fluctuate in the following ranges:

• in height from 2 m to 2.7 m;
• in width from 2 to 3 m.

The dimensions of each section largely depend on the thickness of the corners used

Installation of such a fence is carried out as follows:

1. First, the pillars are concreted. It is important to fix them as firmly as possible, since they will bear the entire load supported by the fence.
2. The distance between them must be maintained in accordance with the width of the frame.
3. Then the frame is assembled, to which the chain-link mesh is welded.
4. After this, a section with a fixed chain link is welded to the posts.

Concreting the pillars to the depth of soil freezing will provide a reliable basis for the mesh fence

Some companies offer installation services for such a fence. They also assemble the section according to the specified dimensions and install the fence directly along the perimeter of the site.

Tension fencing

Tension fencing is cheaper in cost than sectional fencing. Their installation is simplified compared to the previous version of the fence design.

The safety of tension fencing largely depends on the chosen method of securing the mesh

The essence of installation consists of the following steps:

1. The pillars are buried to a depth of approximately 1 m, maintaining the same distance between them. As a rule, it is 2.5-3 m.
2. Then the chain-link mesh is unrolled and attached to the installed posts.
3. Fixation is carried out using special plates.

You should not make too large a distance between two adjacent posts, as in this case the upper part of the chain-link mesh will sag and try to overwhelm the entire structure. This is especially true during gusts of wind.

The splicing of the mesh sheets together is done using an outer spiral wire

The easiest way to secure the mesh to poles is with wire clamps

It must be borne in mind that direct installation of the mesh to installed poles is possible in two ways:

• The first is the simplest and most inexpensive - with it, the mesh is simply unfolded and attached to the posts without additional fixation along the top edge. The easiest installation method is to stretch the mesh between the posts
• In the second case, guides, so-called sleds, are additionally installed. In this case, the entire fence will look more solid. In addition, it holds its shape better. In order to make this type of fencing, it is enough just to weld longitudinal guides to the posts along the upper edge (where the top strip of the mesh will be located). They can be pipes or timber. Sometimes they use fairly dense and thick wire.

Mesh on wire Mesh on cable Mesh on pipe

When choosing fences for a dacha, the chain-link should be either galvanized or polymer-coated. This way you can forget for a long time about the need to change the barrier or put it in order.

In addition, you should immediately take into account the best way to attach this material. If there is a need to save money, then you can make a sectional option in the place where the fence faces the street.

Whereas parts of the site bordering on neighbors can be done in a simpler version - with a tension wire along the upper edge or simply tensioned.

Option for a chain-link fence on a wooden frame

An example of a chain-link fence on a slope in a garden plot

It is also important to remember that an inexpensive fence will most likely have to be renovated after some time, if not completely changed. And this will require additional financial expenses. Therefore, before purchasing the cheapest possible design, you should calculate everything quite competently, taking into account the subtleties and nuances. After all, it’s easier to do it right away with high quality than to invest additional funds in remodeling or annual painting later.

A mesh fence can be decorated with a pattern woven from thin wire

If there is a desire to protect the interior space of the site from being viewed from the outside, then polycarbonate material or a camouflage mesh can be attached to the chain-link mesh. They will ensure that the space is hidden from view from the outside.

Decor with multi-colored ribbons Decor with climbing plants Decor with reeds

It is very important to consider that chain-link mesh is a fairly popular material for fencing an area. But, before choosing this material, you need to understand all its advantages and disadvantages. Only in this case will it be possible to obtain the fencing that is suitable for a particular case.

Photos of chain-link fences

Source: https://dizainexpert.ru/landshaftnyj-dizajn/vse-pro-zabory-iz-setki-rabicy-kak-delaetsya-i-ustanavlivaetsya/

How to tighten a fence mesh so that it doesn’t sag - Owner of the House

A chain-link fence may sag over time. This is due to the fact that the mesh itself is heavy and, in the absence of appropriate fastening of the mesh in the sections, it stretches and sags between the posts.

The best solution is to securely fasten the mesh at the stage of fence construction. This rule also applies to corrugated board fences. However, even if it sagging, the situation can be corrected.

In order to tension the fence mesh, you can use two bars of smooth reinforcement or a thin cable.

Leveling sagging mesh with reinforcement

Aligning the mesh with chain-link reinforcement is a pretty good method. In addition to the alignment itself, you give a finished look to the fence profile. The rigidity characteristics of reinforcement from 10 mm make it possible to eliminate sagging in full. The longer the length of one reinforcement, the more effective its use.

Installing reinforcement in the upper and lower parts of the fence prevents the mesh from sagging

The reinforcement is passed through the top cell. It is laid on top of the poles, welded or screwed to the pole using fasteners of various designs.

If the mesh is significantly deformed, you can pre-tension it or try to compress the upper clamps with pliers.

The lower reinforcement may not have a rigid attachment to the posts; it will level the chain-link only with its own weight, although it is also desirable to ensure its reliable fastening.

How to tension a fence mesh using a cable

The stretched cable prevents the fence mesh from sagging

If you stretch a cable between the corner posts, which is first passed through the mesh cells, the downward sagging of the mesh will be eliminated.

A cable with a diameter of 3 mm can carry a load of 250 kg and is fixed on supports with special clamps, which you can purchase in the same place as the cable itself. Leveling with a cable requires the fencing structure to be stable and rigid.

Therefore, when using a cable, you must install metal fence posts with absolute reliability.

To ensure the required cable tension, it is possible to use a lanyard, which is installed on one pole. When pulling the cable, it is recommended to additionally strengthen the corner posts with braces if the cable begins to bend the post inward.

Source: https://hozayindoma.ru/dacha/kak-natyanut-zabornuyu-setku-chtoby-ne-provisala.html

How to install a chain-link fence with your own hands - Machine

17.12.2019

Wire mesh is an ideal material for lightweight fencing. It does not obscure the light, and therefore is widely used for fencing beds, gardens, and marking the boundaries of neighboring areas. To install a chain-link fence with your own hands, you don’t need to be an experienced craftsman; you just need to familiarize yourself with the installation technology and choose the right materials.

DIY chain-link fence

Fence materials

The appearance, durability and cost of a chain-link fence directly depend on the quality of the mesh. Metal mesh is available in three versions:

• non-galvanized;
• galvanized;
• plasticized.

Chain-link made from plain black wire is the cheapest of all. It is not suitable for permanent fencing because it begins to rust after the first rain. Typically, untreated black mesh lasts no more than 3-4 years.

To extend its service life, non-galvanized chain-link should be coated either with paint or with special compounds, which, after application, form a water-repellent coating on the mesh.

This treatment must be repeated periodically, which ultimately costs more than purchasing galvanized mesh.

Chainlink made of plain black wire

Galvanized chain-link is not afraid of moisture and does not require protective treatment. Its appearance is much more attractive; such a mesh looks especially good in sectional fences. The cost of galvanized mesh is higher than regular black mesh, but since it lasts longer and does not need to be painted every 2-3 years, this option is more practical.

Galvanized chain link

The plasticized mesh has a special polymer coating that is resistant to corrosion. The coating is not only durable, but also comes in a variety of colors, so you can choose a mesh to match the main fence or roof of the house. The most popular are blue and green chain-link fences; it is less common to see a white, red or yellow mesh fence.

Plasticized mesh
Comparison of mesh Rabitz TM Kazachka with others

Special attention should be paid to the supporting posts of the fence. Chain-link mesh can be attached to metal pipes, steel profiles, concrete posts and even wooden posts.

The most convenient and practical supports are square metal pipes. Manufacturers offer pipes with already welded hooks, especially for installing mesh fences.

To reduce the cost of installing the fence, they also use used pipes, and weld the hooks themselves.

In addition, fastening with hooks is not the only option; you can fix the mesh using steel wire.

Metal posts for chain-link mesh

How to calculate the amount of materials

The most popular for making fences is a chain-link mesh with a width of 1.5 m and cell sizes of 40-50 mm. A standard roll of mesh is 10 m long.

To prevent the mesh from sagging, support posts must be installed in increments of 2-2.5 m. This means that no more than 5 posts will be required per roll.

The above-ground part of the supports should be 10 cm greater than the width of the mesh, and the posts should be dug into the ground at 1/3 of their height.

So, if you need to install a chain-link fence 30 m long and 1.5 m high, the work will require 3 rolls of mesh and 16 posts 2.3-2.5 m long. Each post should have 3 hooks attached - at the top, bottom and in the middle .

By multiplying the number of supports by 3, you will find out how many hooks you will need. If the fence is sectional, additionally calculate the number of metal corners for the frame. The height of each section is equal to the width of the mesh, and the length of the run is 2-2.5 m.

The most convenient corner for a 40x40 mm frame with a thickness of 5 mm.

Have you decided to build a chain-link fence?

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with other types of fences. For example, read about the construction of a metal fence, a polycarbonate fence, a reliable brick fence would be an excellent support for a chain-link fence.

And also read about building a wooden fence!

Manufacturing of tension fence

Chainlink fence

Chain-link tension fencing is faster to complete than sectional fencing and is less expensive. The installation process includes marking, preparing holes for posts, installing posts and fence fabric.

To work you will need:

• Rabitz;
• metal pipes with a diameter of 60-80 mm;
• metal hooks;
• hand drill;
• level and tape measure;
• anti-corrosion primer;
• dye;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• concrete solution;
• crushed stone;
• sand. How to attach a chain-link mesh

Step 1. Marking the area

Take wooden pegs and long twine and start marking. First you need to determine the location of the outer pillars. In these places, pegs are driven in and a string is pulled between them at a height of 10 cm above the ground.

If the fence line has breaks, a beacon is also placed on each of them and a rope is secured. Further along the marking line, you need to drive in pegs where the intermediate supports will stand.

The distance between the pegs must be the same and correspond to the width of the run.

Step 2. Preparing holes for pillars

Drilling holes for posts

In places marked with pegs, using a garden drill, make holes with a depth of 80 to 120 cm. The denser the soil, the shallower the depth. The diameter of the holes should be slightly larger than the diameter of the posts. A sand cushion 10 cm thick is placed at the bottom of each pit.

Step 3. Installation of load-bearing pillars

Installation of load-bearing posts
We make a fence from a chain-link mesh

Prepare the pipes: clean their surface from oil stains and rust, grind it, weld the hooks. The welding areas are cleaned, scale is removed, and then the pipes are primed and painted.

After this, the posts are lowered into the holes, leveled, and reinforced with spacers. If all the supports have the same height and are located strictly in one line, you can pour the concrete solution.

During the pouring process, the solution is pierced several times with a steel rod to remove air bubbles from the concrete.

Installation of posts for a chain-link fence

Sometimes metal supports are not installed, but driven into the ground: holes are made at a shallow depth, about 30-40 cm, pipes are lowered into them and driven into them with a sledgehammer to the required depth.

To avoid breaking the top edge, a piece of steel pipe with a welded bottom is placed on the posts.

This method allows you to save materials, and on dense rocky soils it is quite justified, but if the soil is sandy and unstable, the supports may move to the side. Link to an article about concreting fence posts.

Step 4. Attaching the chain-link mesh

Installation of mesh fencing

There is no need to unwind the roll to secure the mesh to the poles. It is lifted vertically, placed against the first support and hooked.

If there are no hooks, the mesh is screwed with steel wire in three or four places. It is recommended to leave 10-15 cm between the ground surface and the bottom edge of the mesh.

You can also attach it close to the soil, but then the cells will quickly become entangled in grass, and debris, branches, and fallen leaves will accumulate under the fence.

Fastening schemes

Having secured the chain-link to the first post, move on to the second. The roll is unwound 2-2.5 m, placed against a support and the mesh is pulled. To ensure uniform tension, a 1.5 m long steel rod is threaded into the cells along the height of the roll. This process is best performed with an assistant: one person pulls the mesh, the other screws it with wire or hooks it.

Even a tightly stretched chain-link sags over time, especially in the upper part.

Reinforcing wire or long steel rods threaded into cells along the perimeter of the fence at a distance of 5-7 cm from the top and welded to the posts will help to avoid this.

Sometimes the wire is threaded both from above and along the bottom edge, departing 20 cm from the ground. Finally, the ends of the wire and hooks are bent inward, and plugs are put on all support posts.

Chain-link fences

Manufacturing a sectional fence

Chainlink fence

Marking and installation of support posts for a sectional fence is carried out using the technology described above. The only difference is that the posts should not have hooks, but rather welded metal plates. These plates have dimensions of 15x5 cm and a thickness of 5 mm; Weld them on top and bottom to the racks, departing 20 cm from the edges.

Installation of a chain-link fence

To assemble the sections you will need:

• Rabitz;
• steel corners 40x40 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• roulette;
• welding machine;
• reinforcement bars.

Step 1. Assembling the frame

Measure the distance between the supporting posts and subtract 15-20 cm from it - this will be the width of the frame from the corners. The height of the section is equal to the width of the mesh or the height of the post minus 20 cm. The steel corners are cut to the size of the section and welded into a rectangle. Then the scale is removed, the inner and outer surfaces of the frame are ground.

Chainlink fence

Step 2: Preparing the mesh

The roll of chain-link is laid on the ground, unrolled 2-2.5 m and carefully cut to width with a grinder. Now reinforcing bars are threaded into the outer rows of cells on each side. There is no need to connect the rods together.

Step 3. Section installation

The mesh is laid on the frame and the upper reinforcement is welded to the inside of the corner. Next, pull the mesh well down and weld the bottom rod, after which the sides are secured. The finished section is lifted vertically to the posts and welded to metal plates. You can also secure the section with bolts by drilling a hole of the required diameter in the protruding part of the plate.

When installing the next section, you must ensure that the edges of adjacent frames are on the same line. Even a difference of 1-2 cm will be noticeable and will give the fence a sloppy look. Finally, the sections are primed and painted. This way you can make a fence of any size without much hassle.

Chain-link fences are not inferior in functionality to wooden or metal onesFences made of welded sections

Sectional mesh fence

DIY chain-link fence

Source: https://regionvtormet.ru/svarka/kak-vypolnit-montazh-zabora-iz-setki-rabitsy-svoimi-rukami.html

Tag: HOW TO STRETCH A NETWORK MESH ON A FENCE

Chain-link mesh has firmly gained popularity among owners of country houses and summer cottages as the most acceptable fencing option. This is not surprising: at a low cost compared to other materials, such a fence can last up to 20 years! At the same time, it is absolutely easy to install a chain-link fence with your own hands; you just need to choose high-quality material and study the technology.  

Installing a chain-link fence is the main topic of this article; in it you will find accessible instructions, and you will definitely succeed.

Types of chain-link mesh for fences

Galvanized or black wire is used to make chain-link; for this reason, the quality of the mesh may vary significantly.

The most inexpensive, and therefore short-lived, is a mesh made of black wire. After the first rain or fog, it may become covered with rust, and such a fence will become completely unusable in 3-4 years. In order to extend its service life, liquid rubber or paint is used, which is applied to the mesh before installation, and then the protective layer must be periodically renewed.

In contrast, galvanized wire mesh lasts much longer because it is not afraid of corrosion. It does not require additional protective treatment, and at the same time its cost is slightly higher than black.

Polymer-coated mesh, despite its rather high price, is becoming increasingly popular. Due to the coating with a dense layer of anti-corrosion polymer, it has increased resistance to any atmospheric influences. The colored mesh, in addition, looks more aesthetically pleasing.

Chain-link mesh can also differ in roll height, wire thickness and mesh size. The cell size can be from 10 to 65 mm, the wire diameter ranges from 1 to 5 mm, the most popular roll height is 1.5 meters (can be from 0.8 to 2 meters).

A 10-meter length of mesh per roll is standard, but rolls up to 20 meters long are produced upon special order.

The cost of a chain-link fence for a fence directly depends on the size of the cells: the smaller the cells, the higher the material consumption and, accordingly, the higher the price.

Materials required to install a chain link fence

Even if you are one of the people who rarely do anything with their own hands, installing a chain-link fence will not cause you any particular difficulties. The most important thing is to accurately calculate everything and purchase the required amount of the mesh itself, as well as additional materials.

Installing a chain-link fence can take no more than two days if you prepare in advance all the materials and tools necessary for the work:

• Rabitz;
• tension wire, the function of which is to support the mesh, provide additional attachment points and eliminate the possibility of sagging. It is possible to use galvanized wire, thickness from 2 mm. and more. An alternative option that protects the fence from mesh theft is the use of reinforcement or thin pipe;
• support pillars (made of metal, concrete or wood);
• thin wire for fastening the mesh or other fasteners;
• sand and cement necessary for concreting support pillars;
• For processing wood or metal, special protective compounds will be required.
• necessary tools: rope for marking the area, tape measure, drill or shovel.

Using metal posts as the base for attaching a chain link fence is the most popular. This is not surprising: it is difficult to find a more durable and reliable option. The best option is to use round or square profile pillars with a cross section of 6–12 centimeters. Some people use unnecessary water pipes for these needs, which can significantly reduce the costs required to install the fence.

Chain-link fence on metal supports

Concrete pillars are not inferior in properties to metal pillars: due to their strength, they can stand for centuries. Their significant disadvantage is their high cost. And attaching the chain-link mesh to them is quite difficult: you need to use special clamps, braiding the concrete structure with a steel cable. All this significantly complicates the installation process.

Chain-link fence on concrete supports

Another support option is wood poles. However, it is most often used as a temporary option. Experts strongly recommend that when installing such poles, you must remove the bark, and the part of the tree that is to be buried in the ground must be thoroughly coated with mastic with high waterproofing properties.

Chain-link fence on wooden supports Installation of a chain-link fence: 1 - Insert bolts; 2 - Attach the wire with paper clips; 3 - Pull the wire; 4 - Fasten the wire with paper clips; 5 - Attach the mesh to the posts with paper clips; 6 - Attach the mesh to the guy wires; 7 - Attach the mesh to the post with paper clips.

How to install tension fences from a chain-link mesh?

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to mark out the areas. To do this, low pegs are installed at the corners of the site, between which a construction thread or cord is stretched. The length of the thread plus 2 meters is the number of meters of mesh that is needed for the future fence.

Next, it’s worth determining the places where the supports of the future fence will be installed. The optimal distance between them is 2.5 meters. To determine the number of supports, you need to take the length of each side of the future fence and divide the resulting number by 2.5.

The posts are installed in depressions prepared in the ground, which can be made either with a drill or with a simple shovel. 1.2 - 1.5 meters is the optimal depth of the pits, at the bottom of which a layer of crushed stone is first compacted, and then a layer of sand. First, supports are installed at the corners of the site, and after that they begin to install other pillars.

The pillars are installed strictly vertically, after deepening with the pipes they are filled with a solution: 2 parts of cement, one part of sand, one part of crushed stone and water. The mixture is thoroughly mixed to obtain a not “steep”, but not very liquid solution.

This completes the first stage of work. You will need to wait 6-8 days for it to completely harden.

Features of the process of stretching the mesh and attaching it to the supports

The second stage of arranging a chain-link fence begins with the process of welding hooks onto the supports, for which manual arc welding is used. Hooks are made from any available metal material.

How to stretch chain-link mesh onto a fence? First you need to straighten the roll. The process starts from the corner. The mesh is hung on the fasteners, after which the required footage is unwound, the wire is threaded vertically into it at some distance from the area where the support and the mesh are connected, after which the fence itself is tensioned. Important: this operation is performed by two people.

After the fence is tensioned, you need to place a bar or thick wire horizontally at a distance slightly above the bottom edge of the fence and below the top. The rod is welded to the support. All subsequent sections of the mesh are tensioned and fastened in the same way.

The fence is ready!

Source: https://capitalprom.ru/articles/tag/%D0%9A%D0%90%D0%9A+%D0%9D%D0%90%D0%A2%D0%AF%D0%9D%D0%A3 %D0%A2%D0%AC+%D0%A1%D0%95%D0%A2%D0%9A%D0%A3+%D0%A0%D0%90%D0%91%D0%98%D0%A6%D0 %A3+%D0%9D%D0%90+%D0%97%D0%90%D0%91%D0%9E%D0%A0

How to stretch a chain-link mesh onto a fence with your own hands

Chain-link mesh has found wide application in everyday life and in construction. Recently it has been in great demand both in our country and abroad. This is a universal building material that has found application for construction purposes; its areas of use are constantly expanding.

The mesh is used to strengthen the banks of rivers and seas, against landslides and ground collapses, and in anti-erosion measures. The material is used to reinforce heating main pipes and cover them with heat-insulating material. Chain-link is used in production, for screening out particles, for making partitions and protective screens.

There are probably no buildings that do not contain a grid in their structures. This includes installation of self-leveling floors, plaster reinforcement and wall cladding. But more often they are used for installing reliable fences. The mesh is widely used in summer cottages, as it has an aesthetic appearance and does not obscure the territory.

The open, traditional grid structure fits into sophisticated garden design. Metal mesh is used to fence off private territory, private homes, sports or playgrounds.

Let's talk about how to install support posts, stretch a chain-link mesh over them, and what is needed for this.

Types of chain link

Chain-link mesh has many varieties. Products differ in type, quality of wire and cell size. There are four types of material, which differ in color, material, quality characteristics, and strength.

Black mesh coated with polymer materials. It differs in texture and appearance. Each owner can choose the appropriate option for himself.

Does not rust and retains its appearance for many years. Suitable for the construction of country fences and fences.

• Plasticized wire.

It has anti-corrosion properties, but is not in demand due to its expensive price.

Made from multi-colored plastic. The cells are different in shape. It has a low level of strength.

Mounting options

There are several ways to install a chain-link fence yourself:

• Using the sectional method, by securing it with metal corners, the fence looks aesthetically pleasing, is resistant to wind loads, and lasts for many years.
• Simple stretching of the network between ready-made supports - built quickly, low financial costs, but less resistant to wind and snow loads.

When choosing a suitable method for installing a chain-link, you need to take into account the terrain, the size of the sections, and the level of wind load that prevails in a particular region. With frequent strong storm winds, typical of coastal or steppe climates, it is better to secure the mesh very tightly.

What will you need?

Simple installation of a chain-link fence does not pose any difficulties even for novice builders. First you need to prepare building material, as well as ordinary construction tools: pliers, hammer, metal scissors, grinder, concrete mixer.

The following building materials will be required:

• concrete for installation of support columns, grade M200;
• fastenings for chain-link, which are sold in hardware stores;
• ready-made support pillars made of metal, wood or concrete.

Using these affordable and common tools and materials, you can quickly get the job done to build a beautiful and inexpensive fence.

Installation of supports

The construction of a chain-link fence is carried out on concrete or metal supports with a minimum diameter of 6-10 cm. They are the strongest and most durable. Special hooks must be welded to the metal posts in advance to help fasten the mesh.

Concrete poles are much more expensive than metal ones. To attach the mesh, you will need to use clamps or steel braiding on them, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing, but holds firmly.

Installation work on the construction of the fence is carried out in stages. Even a novice master can handle every stage of the work. But in order to avoid mistakes when installing the fence, it is better to study the instructions thoroughly.

• Markings are made along the entire perimeter of the future fence. To do this, we place small pegs in the corners of the site. We stretch the cable between the stakes. The length of the cable means the length of the mesh required to decorate the fence, but it is better to buy with a reserve.
• We dig deep holes to install fence support posts. The holes for the posts need to be dug to a depth of 1.2 - 1.5 m. In sandy loose soil it is better to dig even deeper - up to 2 meters.
• At the corners of the entire perimeter we install the main load-bearing supports, which require careful fastening. We install additional supports at a distance of 2-3 m.
• We fill the bottom of each hole with crushed stone, and then add a little sand. We carefully compact and compact all the pillars. Be sure to check the vertical position of each support with a plumb line. While the stand is not filled with concrete, you can fix it in the desired direction to avoid distortion of the entire structure.
• We fill the pillars with ordinary cement mortar, but with the addition of crushed stone for strength. It will take at least a week for the solution to harden.

Tensioning the mesh

Beginning builders often wonder how to properly tension a chain-link mesh. It seems to them that the question is very difficult or simply impossible. In reality, everything is simple if you know the principles of step-by-step stretching.

• Using simple welding, you need to weld steel hooks onto metal posts for attaching the mesh. To do this, you can take scraps of steel rods, nails, wire, etc.
• Having unrolled the roll, we strongly stretch the chain-link. It's better to start from the corner of the fence.
• It is better to thread reinforcement or thick wire into the top row of the mesh.
• We hook the net onto the hooks of the supports and stretch it to the next hooks.

It is better to build the fence with an assistant to create a good stretch between the supports.

Fastening sections

The method of attaching the chain-link to the poles depends on the chosen material. For wooden or concrete supports, different fastenings are used.

Metal pipes must be equipped with special brackets, hooks or plates to which a chain-link can be easily attached. They can be welded. You can attach it to metal pipes using small steel plates with holes. Large threaded pins are threaded into the finished holes on the plates and secured with nuts through special holes in the pipes.

The mesh is attached to the concrete posts with thick wire or clamps. The wire should be selected from stainless steel. The concrete posts do not have holes, hooks or plates, so the net is attached to large clamps or tied tightly. To do this, use strong steel wire.

The mesh is put on hooks, which are then bent with a hammer. The chain-link is attached to wooden posts with staples or nails, or can be screwed with steel wire. It is better to secure it in several places.

Common mistakes

During the process of installing fencing, novice builders may make small mistakes. This can reduce the life of the fence and quickly ruin its appearance.

Let's look at the most common errors:

• Metal supports are not cleaned of rust. When using used supports, you need to thoroughly remove rust and paint, you can apply a protective layer to the surface.
• When installing supports, the method of driving the support into the ground is often used. This may lead to deformation of the support. Therefore, it is better to use a drill or install it in pre-prepared holes.
• To avoid sagging of the mesh, you need to install carabiners in advance, which will allow for timely tightening. To protect the fence from thieves, it is better to weld the wire broach to the posts, which will strengthen the structure.

Easy installation, resistance to damage and deformation, strength, a wide range of sizes, durability and affordability - these are the few qualities that chain-link mesh is endowed with.

The invention of Karl Rabitz has become very popular these days and is widely used in the national economy and in everyday life.

Source: https://MegaStrolis.ru/metallicheskie/kak-natyanut-setku-rabitsu

How to stretch a chain-link mesh?

Chainlink mesh is often used by summer residents to organize a temporary (or permanent) fence. The advantage of this material is its relative affordability. It is unlikely that you will be able to find something that will be even cheaper. In addition, when placed in close proximity to an organized fence of climbing plants, you can get a very picturesque fence in just 2-3 years.

Here you can purchase Chainlink mesh on the most favorable terms. The offer concerns not only large wholesale, but also relatively small quantities. Below we will describe the process of self-stretching a chain-link mesh as a fabric for a fence around a summer cottage. Let us note in advance that the procedure can be carried out independently, without the involvement of assistants.

Installation of fence posts

The first part of the preparatory work includes the installation of fence posts. As a rule, a metal corner is used for these purposes. Installation does not require large resources.

It is quite possible to do without using a solution. However, to strengthen the post in the ground you will have to use gravel or crushed stone. A clear advantage of the Rabitz mesh is the end-to-end facets.

This means that the windage at the fence (until climbing plants have settled on it) is actually zero. Using concrete to fix posts in the ground is a waste of money.

Subsequently, to stretch the mesh onto the poles, you will need the following tools:

• riveter;
• wire cutters;
• pliers;
• twine (rope).

The procedure for stretching a chain-link mesh onto prepared fence posts

In the upper part, a wire is stretched from one pillar to another. It is better that its thickness is at least 3 mm. Next, the Chainlink mesh is hung onto the tensioned wire. It expands to perfectly fill the space between the two pillars.

The side part is attracted to the first post using a metal strip (aluminum is often chosen for these purposes). It is useful to tie the twine to the aluminum strip and to your own belt.

Thanks to this, you can use your own torso to tighten the Chainlink mesh, and use your free hands to correctly install the rivets. Now you need to use wire to tie the upper section of the mesh to the pre-tensioned wire between the posts.

Source: http://glavspec.ru/kak-natyanut-setku-rabitsu.html

How to properly stretch a chain-link mesh onto a fence - a description of the work in stages

Before stretching a chain-link mesh onto a fence, it is very important to remember that this type of material is made by screwing several spiral wires into a flat coil, usually using German-made semi-automatic mesh weaving machines.

The most commonly used wire has a polymer or galvanized coating, and stainless and steel options are not very common.

Required Tools

To independently erect a fence based on a chain-link mesh, you need to prepare a standard set of tools and material, presented:

• the required amount of mesh with a small margin;
• the required number of support pillars;
• wire for fixing the mesh fabric on the poles;
• clamps, brackets, plates, bolts and nuts;
• hammer and pliers;
• grinder and welding machine;
• material for concreting pillars.

Metal supports require priming and painting, and buried areas are covered with liquid bitumen. Wooden poles must be thoroughly impregnated with an antiseptic and painted, and the part buried in the ground must be treated with bitumen mastic.

To speed up and facilitate the installation of the fence, it is recommended to purchase fully prepared metal support posts that have welded hooks and are treated with a layer of reliable primer.

Preparatory stage

Initially, you need to purchase a sufficient amount of chain-link mesh, measuring the perimeter of the area allocated for the installation of mesh fencing. For this purpose, pegs are driven into the corners of the area, and then a cord is pulled, the length of which will indicate the total amount of material.

Among other things, it is necessary to take into account mesh overlaps in the presence of joining areas. After determining the total length of the fence, the number of support pillars is calculated, the distance between which is most often 2.0-2.5 meters.

Installation of chain-link mesh

When choosing a mesh, it is recommended to give preference to a material with traditional galvanization or with a high-quality polymer coating, which reliably protects the fence being built from high humidity or the formation of corrosive changes.

Support posts for a chain-link fence can be concrete, metal or wood, but only the first pair of types is most preferable, due to the risk of wood rotting as a result of negative external influences.

An insufficiently high-quality and reliable polymer coating can fade quite quickly when exposed to sunlight and crack in the cold, so the choice of such material must be approached very responsibly.

Unfolding and alignment around the perimeter

The initially purchased chain-link mesh, sold in rolls, should be laid out and then leveled along the entire marked perimeter to avoid strong twisting and placement of the web elements at unequal heights. Among other things, in order to prevent the risk of further deformation, the end part of the mesh is bent with the obligatory formation of a kind of loop that does not allow neighboring individual wires to jump out.

Ready fence

Alignment of a stretched mesh fabric is most often carried out using conventional reinforcement, which not only allows you to smooth out sagging areas, but also allows you to give a finished appearance to the fence being built. To obtain optimal rigidity indicators, reinforcement D = 10 mm is used, and the effectiveness of the application directly depends on the length of such material.

The lower reinforcing bars do not need to be rigidly attached to the supports, which allows the mesh fabric to be leveled and smoothed under its own weight.

Attaching the mesh begins at one end

Fixing the mesh should be started from one end.

To pull the mesh onto metal poles, you need to use special hooks, which must be welded to the supports.

The leveling rods of the reinforcement must be level and corresponding to the length of the spans.

A good replacement for reinforcing rods would be a cable stretched between the corner supports, first passed through the mesh cells and eliminating sagging of the fabric.

The reinforcement should be passed through the top cell, and then placed on the top of the support columns with fixation by welding or screwing.

As a generally available option, the use of fastening elements of different designs can be considered. Very severely deformed sections of the fence structure require additional compression of the upper clamps using pliers.

A metal cable D=3.0 mm can easily withstand a load of 220-250 kg and is fixed to the fence being built using special clamps.

Pulling and fixing it to an adjacent element

After the mesh fabric is secured to the first support post, the chain-link is pulled and then fixed to the adjacent element. This stage of work can be carried out using different methods, directly depending on the main typical features of the frame structure.

The chain-link mesh is installed in a similar manner around the entire perimeter of the fence being built. On wooden poles, fastening the tensioned fabric can be done with ordinary nails.

Fence with decorative elements

In order for the tension and fixation of the fence mesh to be of the highest quality and also reliable, it is necessary to concrete the installed metal supports or pillars based on other materials.

Conclusion

The undeniable advantages of fences made from chain-link mesh are the low price of materials, the ability to perform independent installation even if you lack special skills, the absence of shading, durability and ease of maintenance.

However, such fencing is not without some tangible disadvantages, which primarily include the lack of sound insulation and the rapid appearance of rust as a result of the lack of high-quality protection, so the rules for selecting and installing mesh fabric should not be neglected when constructing a fence.

Source: https://masterlandshafta.ru/zabor/kak-natyanut-setku-rabicu.html

How to install a chain-link mesh with your own hands

If only functionality is required from the fence, and aesthetics do not matter, the easiest way is to stretch a chain-link mesh between the posts. It is cheap, does not shade green spaces, and, being completely ventilated, does not experience wind loads. This article describes how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands.

Materials

To create a fence you need:

• Rabitz. Basically, rolls of 1.5-meter width with a mesh of 40 or 50 mm are used;
• pipe for making posts. It’s better to take a profiled one - it’s easier to weld to it. Acceptable size is 60x60x2 mm or 80x80x2 mm. Especially for the installation of mesh fencing, racks with hooks welded to them are produced. An alternative option is pillars made of wood or concrete. But they are not popular. The first - due to their short service life, the second - due to bulkiness;
• cement, sand, crushed stone. If the soil is dense, the posts do not need to be concreted: due to complete ventilation, the mesh fencing is impervious to wind force. In soft soil, it is better to fill the supports with concrete;
• Depending on the design features of the fence, a corner, wire or rod may be required.

The mesh is available in three versions:

1. without anti-corrosion coating . The cheapest modification, but it will have to be painted every two years. It is advisable to purchase this material only for temporary structures;
2. galvanized _ It costs more, but you don’t have to take care of it;
3. with polymer coating . This option is not only corrosion-resistant, but also attractive: the plastic protective film can be any color.

Calculation of the quantity of materials

The calculation is carried out taking into account the following:

1. the installation step of the posts is 2-2.5 m. If, for example, the perimeter of the fence is 200 m, 80-100 supports will be required (in a closed loop their number is equal to the number of spans);
2. the above-ground part of the support is 10 cm above the panel. The gap between the lower edge of the mesh and the ground is 10 cm: this prevents the destruction of the metal and facilitates the procedure for removing debris. Consequently, with a roll width of 1.5 m, the height of the above-ground part of the column will be 1.7 m;
3. the length of the recessed part of the support is equal to one third of the outer part. No longer required, since the canvas has zero windage. Therefore, with a length of the above-ground part of 1.7 m, the buried part will be 60 cm, which means that the entire rack will have a length of 2.3 m;
4. The length of the mesh in a roll is 10 m. Accordingly, with a perimeter length of 200 m, the required number of rolls will be 20 pcs. + 1 in reserve.

If the mesh is supposed to be attached to hooks, then 3 pieces will be needed for each support. The number of other elements (angle, plates, wire) depends on the construction method.

Site marking

Preliminarily mark the location of the supports on the site:

• in the area where the fence is installed, large plants and debris are removed, depressions and mounds are leveled;
• markers (stakes) are driven into the ground at the corners of the site boundaries;
• a cord is pulled between them;
• along the towline from the entrance to the site, mark with pegs the position of the wicket and gate posts;
• measure the distance between the corner markers, and from the corners to the installation site of the goal posts.

Then, for each side, the span length is selected from the range of 2-2.5 m, so that a whole number of them fit in the space between the markers, and they themselves are approximately equal along the entire perimeter of the fence. It remains to place markers along the string in increments equal to the accepted span length, thus indicating the location of the supports.

Preparing holes for pillars

It is more convenient to make holes for posts using a garden drill. Depth - 10-15 cm more than the buried part of the column. At the bottom of the excavation, a sand or sand-crushed stone cushion 10-15 cm thick is arranged. The material is compacted in layers of 5 cm, after watering it with water. This is a drainage cushion: it does not retain moisture, so the base of the column remains dry.

Installation of load-bearing pillars

The supports are installed in the following sequence:

1. a “heel” (a square plate for support) and hooks are welded to the posts, then they are primed and painted, and the buried part is also covered with bitumen or polymer-bitumen mastic;
2. randomly choose one of the sides of the future fence and install the outer supports. Each column is brought into a strictly vertical position using a plumb line and temporarily fixed with wooden wedges or fragments of brick;
3. Using a water level, determine which rack has the lower top. Sand is added under it until both posts are the same in height;
4. Having removed the wedges, concrete is poured into the holes with installed racks or a mixture of soil and sand is filled with a layer-by-layer tamper. The rack cavity is filled with the same material;
5. The cord is pulled strictly horizontally between the supports, for which equal distances are removed from the tops. A thick wire is laid between the cord and each stand. Without this, when installing other racks, they would have to touch the cord, which could lead to its unnoticeable bending.

Then the intermediate posts are installed one after another, observing the following conditions:

• strictly vertical position (controlled by a plumb line);
• the distance from the top to the cord is the same as that of the outer supports;
• the gap between the post and the twine is equal to the thickness of the wire laid under it on the corner posts.

Methods for installing fence posts

All vertical parts are welded on top with plugs. They also practice driving a post into the ground. They drill a small hole, install a support, put a glass on top to protect the head from flattening, and hammer it in with a sledgehammer. This option is suitable for dense soil.

Fastening the mesh

The easiest way is to unfold the mesh and hook it onto the hooks of the supports, having first tensioned it properly. You can do without hooks - just tie the fabric with wire or clamps. But such a fence will soon sag.

It is more correct to use guy wires with a diameter of 4-6 mm; there are two installation methods:

1. the panel is “stitched” with wire, passing it through each cell, then the fabric is mounted, tensioning the stretch with tensioners or ties. This is an ideal option, but it is labor-intensive, especially since at least two strings are required, and preferably three;
2. First, tension wires are stretched between the posts, and then a web is screwed to them with wire every 20-30 cm. This is a simpler installation method.

Stretch marks put a significant load on the corner posts, which is why it is recommended to make them from a larger diameter pipe.

But the installation step of the supports can be increased to 3 m. The strongest fences are on logs - crossbars made of profiled pipes welded to the supports. It is allowed to use steel bars or reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 mm.

Do this:

• roll out and secure the mesh on the posts using hooks or clamps;
• thread a rod through the cells;
• weld the rod to the vertical structural elements.

Frame assembly

The “frame” is assembled from a corner 40x40x5 mm. A corner with a 50 mm shelf is also suitable.

They do the following:

1. cutting rolled metal into blanks. The dimensions are selected so that the length of the section is 15-20 cm less than the clearance between the supports, and the height is equal to the width of the mesh roll (internal space of the section). Cut strictly perpendicularly;
2. Lay out a rectangle from the blanks on a flat surface. The perpendicularity of the sides is confirmed by the equality of the diagonals. If they differ in length, then there is a skew, that is, the result is not a rectangle, but a rhombus;
3. they grab the workpieces by electric welding and again check the equality of the diagonals (the frame could “lead”);
4. finally welded.

Scale is removed from the metal using a brush with metal bristles.

Mesh preparation

The mesh filling in the frame is installed as follows:

1. the roll is rolled out on a flat surface and, after stretching, a fragment equal to the length of the section is cut off with metal scissors or a grinder (it is better to cut directly on the frame);
2. The outer rows of cells are “stitched” with steel rods: for each piece of panel you will need 4 pieces. They are not welded together;
3. place the mesh in a rigid frame. Then the rod, tucked along the long side of the panel, is connected to the corner with short seams every 150-200 mm;
4. lead by the opposite rod, pulling the fabric, and repeat the operation.

The side rods are welded in the same way. Finally, the seams are also treated with a wire brush.

Installation of sections

To attach the sections to the posts (on each side), two 5-mm-thick plates measuring 5x15 cm are first welded.

The fillings are welded to the dies (the most popular method) or bolted.

When installing the section, the following conditions must be observed:

1. strictly vertical position (controlled by a plumb line);
2. Along the top edge, the section is in line with the rest.

If these instructions are not followed, the fence will look sloppy. Finally, the structure is primed and painted.

Installation on problematic surfaces

In areas with a slope, the sections are still installed horizontally, but each subsequent one is lower than the previous one. The fence line ultimately resembles a terraced slope or, in everyday language, steps.

That is, the steeper the slope, the shorter the spans are made. To ensure that the clearance under the fence remains constant, you can make a shallow concrete parapet.

Source: https://moy-instrument.ru/instrumenty/kak-ustanovit-setku-rabitsu-svoimi-rukami.html

Chainlink fencing

Before answering the question, you need to find out why you need to use chain-link, because there are brick and stone fences, and you shouldn’t forget about metal profiles.

A chain-link fence can be built in two ways. The most common method is to stretch the mesh onto the frame.

But these materials cannot be used to separate summer cottages, since they prevent the penetration of sunlight to plants planted along the fence.

That is why summer residents chose chain-link mesh to decorate the fence, in order to find a way out of the situation.

There are several types of chain-link mesh in construction:

1. Non-galvanized.
2. Galvanized.
3. Plasticized.

The first type of wire is the simplest because it is not painted. The material is standard black.

A sectional chain-link fence is more durable, but also more expensive.

Non-galvanized mesh is considered a temporary fence, since the maximum service life does not reach three years, but if you decide to install this material on a permanent basis, then it must be painted every year, otherwise rust will appear.

The second type of material is treated with a special substance that helps prevent corrosion. The prices for the first and second types of chain-link mesh do not differ much.

And the last third type is plasticized wire. This material is much better than previous options, since the mesh is protected not only from corrosion, but also from moisture. This species has recently appeared on the sales markets.

Since chain-link is used not only for fencing areas, its types have several other differences from each other:

1. The shape of the cells, which does not play an important role in the use of the device.
2. Cell size – this is the factor you should pay special attention to.

The cell size can vary from 25 mm to 60 mm. The smaller, the more expensive, since the mesh with small cells is highly durable. This size of cells is chosen for arranging a chicken coop so that the chickens do not fit into the yard.

A mesh with a maximum size is used just for fencing areas. It costs much less.

Having found out what the work will be done with, you can proceed directly to tensioning the chain-link.

At the moment, there are two options for manufacturing the fence:

Galvanized chain-link is resistant to weathering and retains its strength for up to 50 years.

1. Making sections from the corner where mesh fragments are embedded.
2. Stretch the mesh between the posts.

The second option is cheap and easy to install, but such work, as a rule, is not long-term even if you do the installation correctly.

Therefore, it is best to install the second type of chain-link.

In order to properly tension the structure, we need the following material:

• wooden or metal poles;
• Rabitz;
• wooden pegs;
• metal hooks;
• metal cable;
• cord;
• sand;
• staples or nails;
• shovel;
• hammer;
• crushed stone;
• metal corners.

A fence made from mesh looks very beautiful and elegant, but to install it correctly, you need to spend a fair amount of money, but it is worth it.

A little more about the material. How is a wooden pole different from a metal one?

The first and most important disadvantage of wooden poles is that the material does not have a long service life. Their use is possible only if the fence is installed for a short period of time.

Before using wooden poles in work, they must be prepared.

A tension type fence is the simplest and most inexpensive fencing made from a chain-link mesh. Most often used to create temporary construction fences.

For this they:

• are cleaned;
• trimmed to form a uniform size (2.5-3 mm);
• the part of the tree that will be in the ground is treated with waterproofing mastic;
• the remaining part must be covered with paint.

The installation itself is extremely simple. In those places where the pillars will be installed, holes 1.5 m in size are dug and filled with concrete, after which the foundation hardens for about 7-10 days and the chain-link is stretched.

It is installed using nails or clamps, at your discretion.

It has already been said that in the long term it is more profitable to install metal poles. They can be either round or square. The diameter of the pipe can range from 60 to 120 mm.

For this design, you can use unusable water pipes, but ready-made pipes with hooks are also available for sale. The latter option, naturally, costs a little more.

So, let's start building the structure with our own hands.

The installation of the chain-link is divided into several stages:

1. Marking the area for the fence.
2. Installation of pillars.
3. Mesh tension and fixation.

Let's look at everything point by point.

We fix the dimensions of the future fence using pegs and rope, after which we measure the resulting rectangle or square. Add another 2 m to the resulting value - this is how much chain linking is needed.

The pillars are installed in increments of 2.5 m, so we divide the resulting length by 2.5.

Next, along the entire length of the fence, we mark the places where the posts will be installed, use a level to check the evenness of the line, and correct any imperfections.

Installing a chain-link fence - 1 - Insert bolts, 2 - Attach the wire with paper clips, 3 - Tension the wire, 4 - Fasten the wire with paper clips, 5 - Attach the mesh to the posts with paper clips, 6 - Attach the mesh to the guy wires, 7 - Attach the mesh to the post paper clips.

In previously marked places we make holes 1.5-1.2 m in size. In order for the pillars to be properly fixed, they must be filled with concrete 0.4 m from the bottom of the pit.

Installation begins with those pillars that are in the corner, since they are subject to the greatest uneven pressure. Carefully compacted crushed stone is laid at the bottom, followed by sand, after which the pillar is filled with concrete.

Using a similar technology, the opposite corner post is installed next, and only then all the others. We leave the resulting unfinished fence for 7-10 days so that the concrete becomes hard.

There is another way to fix the pillars using stone, savage and soil. In this case, the pole is attached in the following sequence:

• stone;
• Savage;
• priming;
• stone.

It is important that all the constituent layers are tightly compacted, then the structure will last a long time, and external factors will not be able to influence it in any way.

After the time has passed, you can move on to the second stage.

To do this, we make hooks using a welding machine; subsequently, it is on them that the chain-link will need to be pulled.

Now the most important work is the tensioning.

To ensure that the structure is strong and does not sag, insert a reinforcing rod into the mesh, after which the chain-link is attached to hooks, starting, again, from the corner fence. After the mesh is secured to the first two posts, the installed rod is secured using a welding machine.

After completing the first part, it is necessary to install horizontal reinforcing bars and secure them in the same way.

Subsequent pillars are also designed according to this principle.

After all the posts are covered with mesh, the hooks are closed, and the “tendrils of the mesh” are twisted together.

Next, the pillars are painted to avoid corrosion.

Sectional fencing is different in that sections are made from purchased corners. There should be half as many of them as pillars.

After the required number of sections is ready, their space is filled with chain link. To do this, the required size suitable for the section is cut out of the mesh, after which the resulting web is fixed by welding.

The section itself is attached to the posts using metal strips.

That's all! Best wishes! Good luck!

Source: https://zavorota.ru/metallicheskie/kak-natyanut-setku-rabicu.html