Do-it-yourself chain-link fence
The popularity of chain-link fences is explained, first of all, by the ease of installation of the structure, its durability and relatively low cost. Many property owners are interested in how to make a chain-link fence with their own hands, we will tell you. In addition, it should be noted such important qualities of fencing made from this mesh as:
- excellent ability to transmit light, which is very important in small areas;
- breathability, allowing good air circulation;
- low windage of the fence in strong winds;
- high elasticity of the fence as a result of tension.
Two or three people will be able to make a chain-link fence with their own hands around a plot of 10-15 acres over the weekend, and at the same time they will not be required to have high qualifications in performing construction work.
Types of mesh Rabitz
On the construction market today you can purchase 4 types of mesh, depending on the material used and the technology for its manufacture:
- A simple “black” chain-link, designed for plastering and reinforcement. It is practically not used for use as an external fence. It is highly susceptible to corrosion, does not paint well and is quite fragile.
- For the purpose of reliable protection against corrosion, a polymer-coated mesh is produced. However, it can only be used in sectional structures, since long sections, swaying in the wind, lead to abrasion of the protective coating and the appearance of rust. In addition, different coefficients of thermal expansion of plastic and metal lead to mobility of the layers and reduce the service life of the fence; its cost will be more expensive.
- The most commonly used material for fencing is galvanized chain-link. It costs 10-12% more than black wire, but is made from more ductile wire and has a durable protective layer of zinc. Stainless steel mesh is even better, more reliable and durable, but its prices are much higher than other materials.
- Twisted mesh is distinguished by mesh size and wire thickness. For external fencing, material with a mesh size of 50 mm, made from 1.6-2.0 mm wire, is quite suitable. If you have poultry in your yard, then the mesh size should be reduced to 25-30 mm, and if you have livestock, use reinforced chain-link, made of wire with a diameter of about 4 mm.
The width of the mesh rolled into a roll is from 1.2 m, the length of the material in a roll is from 10 m. Rolls longer than 10 m are rarely purchased, since the heavy weight significantly complicates the work.
When purchasing material, you should take into account that only vertical mesh is used to construct the fence. The horizontal arrangement of spirals, used for reinforcement and plastering, will seriously complicate the connection of individual panels, and therefore can only be used for sectional type fences.
Installation of a chain-link fence with your own hands
In private construction, they most often fence their site using the following technologies for constructing a chain-link fence:
- continuous canvas stretched over strings;
- continuous fabric fixed to veins;
- using sleg;
- a fence assembled from sections;
Each method has its own operational properties, differs in the cost of the necessary materials and the complexity of the work.
The simplest device has a chain-link fence in the form of a continuous sheet stretched along three horizontal strings.
It has good elasticity and resistance to wind, with the lowest cost of purchasing materials. However, to ensure reliable tension of the strings, it is necessary to firmly install them with obligatory concreting, and on the corner and gate posts it is necessary to install jibs for support. Thanks to their simple design, these are the most common fences for country houses made from chain-link mesh.
In the design along the veins, the role of strings is played by a metal rod, a round or profile pipe of small cross-section. Installing such a fence will be stronger and more stable, since all the posts are connected into a single steel structure. Therefore, in the case of dense soils, installing pillars will require less concrete and no need for jibs.
As a result, the costs of constructing such a fence are approximately the same, compared to a construction using strings, and it is better to build it due to the fact that tension is not required. Construction of a fence using strings will require more materials. Slegs are load-bearing horizontal lintels made of boards, steel angles, profile or round pipes and other materials. Depending on the height of the fence, 2, 3, and sometimes 4 slings are secured.
Such designs are most often used when installing fences made of reinforced wire or with a high fence height.
An important quality of continuous slab fencing is the ability to install them on slopes and uneven terrain. When distorted, the mechanical properties of the chain-link are significantly reduced, but strong layers reliably hold all elements, giving the structure strength and stability.
A prefabricated sectional fence consists of individual sections secured to clamps or by welding between posts. Each section is a metal frame made from an angle, inside which a chain-link mesh intended for the fence is stretched. Such fencing is expensive due to the large amount of material used, but has a beautiful appearance. In addition, this is the best design for mesh with a polymer protective coating.
Making a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands
Installation of pillars
Before you make a chain-link fence, you need to install support posts. They can be made of steel or asbestos-cement pipes, as well as wood. Industrial enterprises produce ready-made metal poles, painted, with welded hooks for hanging nets or with clamping mounting feet for sectional ones.
A DIY mesh fence on posts looks beautiful if the posts comply with generally accepted standards, which are presented below.
Minimum recommended diameters and sizes of poles made of various materials:
· steel round pipes with a diameter of 60-80 mm, with a wall thickness of 2.5-3.0 mm;
· steel profile pipes 40×40 – 60×60 mm, with a wall thickness of 3.0 mm;
· asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100-120 mm;
· pine pillars with a diameter of 100 mm;
· hardwood with a diameter of 80 mm.
The pillars should be buried at least 80 cm in the ground with mandatory butting or concreting.
Attention! It is not recommended to install prefabricated sectional fences on wooden and asbestos-cement posts, since they do not withstand lateral loads well.
We concrete the pillar, leveling it
Fixing wooden poles in the ground is possible by butting.
To do this, a layer of crushed stone with sand 20-25 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the dug hole, a post is installed vertically, a layer of rubble of 15-20 cm is laid, sprinkled with a thin layer of sand and rubble again until the top of the pit is reached.
Before installing wooden fence posts with your own hands, their underground part must be treated twice with bitumen mastic and wrapped with roofing felt. The upper part is treated with an oil-based water-repellent and then painted.
All types of pillars can be reinforced with concreting. To do this, a layer of crushed stone is poured under each pillar, and then the installed pillar is poured and the hole is filled with concrete. When installing asbestos-cement supports, the lower part is reinforced with table wire.
Instructions for hanging and tensioning the mesh along the strings
After installing the pillars, begin tensioning the mesh. First of all, the outermost corner post is supported by jibs. It is also recommended to strengthen the intermediate posts if the length of the canvas exceeds 10 meters. The stability of gate posts and gates does not need to be reinforced if they have a connected crossbar or arched structure.
After this, the mesh is rolled out and disassembled into pieces of the required length, equal to the spans of the fence. To do this, just unscrew one vertical spiral and the mesh will be disconnected. Connecting individual parts is similar to disassembling, but is done in the reverse order.
Wire tension
Steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm is used as a tension string. To achieve good elasticity of the fence, it is recommended to tension 3 or 4 strings. The wire is fastened after stretching the mesh, using self-tapping screws with hooks or to hooks welded to the post. Therefore, all strings must be passed through the layers horizontally even before the chain-link is tensioned.
In many instructions on how to build a chain-link fence, it is recommended to tension the mesh using hoists. However, you can completely get by with the force of a high lever, but this will require the work of three people. Two will stretch the mesh, and the third will secure it. Take a metal rod with a diameter of 10-12 mm and a length slightly less than a pole.
Pass it through the outer layers of the mesh and, together with it, attach it vertically to the outermost post. Tie a metal rod to the pole in 4-5 places or secure it by welding. Do not weld the mesh, only the rod. Lift the mesh near the next post, tighten it and repeat the operation, securing it with a metal rod.
It is allowed to fasten chain-links to wooden posts using driven hooks.
How to stretch a chain-link fence along the veins
Installing mesh along veins is similar to installing along strings, but instead of wire, thicker metal rods or thin steel pipes are used to support the mesh. The veins are threaded into the mesh before it is installed, and after tensioning the webs, they are attached to the posts with clamps, hooks or welding.
A fence with veins is more rigid and it is not necessary to install jibs to secure the posts. If the length of the canvas is long, one-sided support of the corner supports may be necessary.
It should be taken into account that in this case the top of the fence becomes more rigid and the upper edge of the mesh becomes dangerous. To avoid this, the upper vein must be passed along the mesh in 5-6 horizontal rows of cells or covered with a polyethylene tube cut lengthwise over the sharp edges. At the same time, such protection will additionally serve as a decoration for the fence.
How to install a chain-link fence on slangs
Attaching the chain link to the post
Boards or a metal corner are used as slings for such a fence. Fastening to poles can be done using welded metal paws, self-tapping screws or double-sided clamps. A very important point is to secure the mesh to the slugs. The mesh is easily attached to wooden crossbars with bent nails or special U-shaped staples; to a steel corner it can be tied and secured with metal rods.
Prefabricated sectional fences
Sections of such structures are assembled on the ground from a profile pipe or angle. The mesh is secured using metal rods laid on the back side of the fence or by spot-tacking the mesh to the frame. To make a sectional fence, welding will be required.
Estimate for chain link fencing
The estimate for a chain-link fence, compiled by specialists from any company, includes the cost of the material and the area of the fence, everything is simple - nothing else. The characteristics of the chain-link today have no complaints from consumers:
• the cost of the material is budget;
• service life of at least 50 years (and this, you see, is quite a lot);
• ease of delivery and installation of fencing;
• the chain-link ensures free air circulation;
• as well as free access of sunlight to plants planted on the territory.
Finally
If you have the materials and two assistants, any type of chain-link fence can be made on your own without turning to specialists. It is imperative to remember the need to protect all metal parts and materials from corrosion, and wood from rotting.
You might want to think about how to decorate a built chain-link fence. To do this, it is sometimes covered with colored plaster or camouflage mesh, and polymer tapes are also woven into the cells. In addition, the good appearance of the fence depends on the correct tension between the posts. If the fence is sagging, do not put off fixing it until later.
Source: https://yaograzhdeniya.ru/zabor-iz-setki-rabitsy-svoimi-rukami/
Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands
For many years, owners of private houses, summer residents, builders and manufacturers have been using woven mesh as a material for installing fencing. This is easily explained by its availability, low cost and ease of installation. With a minimum set of tools, any site owner can install a chain-link fence with their own hands.
Materials for work
As a minimum possible set, you must purchase:
- mesh;
- material for load-bearing supports;
- metal rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm;
- knitting wire;
- cement, crushed stone, sand.
Depending on the type of fence design chosen, other materials may be required. So, to make a sectional fence you will need a 15x15 or 20x20 mm corner and a 20-40 mm metal strip. Welding work requires the presence of electrodes.
Grid selection
Chain-link mesh is a transparent cellular fabric woven from wire spirals of a special shape. The cell size can range from 20 to 100 mm. The width of the canvas is from 1000 to 2000 mm. The material is supplied rolled in rolls of 8-16 meters.
Depending on the wire material and the presence of a protective coating, 4 types of chain-link mesh can be purchased on the building materials market:
- made of plain steel wire without protective coating, “black”;
- galvanized;
- stainless steel;
- with a protective polymer coating.
“Black” is intended for reinforcement during plastering and concrete work. It is not recommended to use it for fencing due to its fragility due to its strong susceptibility to corrosion.
Galvanized sheeting is the most common material for installing a chain-link fence due to its affordable cost and durability. Such a mesh will last at least 15 years even in the most unfavorable operating conditions.
stainless wire fence will last almost forever. However, the main disadvantage of this material is its high cost. In addition, it is necessary to take into account that when using stainless mesh, you will have to install posts made of appropriate materials and most likely abandon welding joints. This will increase the final cost of the fence and complicate installation.
Chain-link with a polymer protective coating is produced in a wide range of colors, looks beautiful and is durable. The main problem is that at the intersection of individual wires, the polymer coating eventually wears down to the metal and an active corrosion process begins.
To install fences around a site, weaving with a wire thickness of 3-4 mm, a mesh size of 30-50 mm and a web width of 1200-1500 mm is most often used.
These dimensions of the chain-link fence for the fence will ensure the achievement of the most optimal price option. Cells less than 30 mm are used when constructing fences for poultry and small domestic animals, more than 50 mm are used mainly in industrial facilities, airports, agricultural lands and other large areas.
Choosing material for pillars
There are several possible options from different materials. Among the most common are supports made from:
- wood;
- metal;
- concrete.
Wooden poles are the cheapest, simplest, but very short-lived solution. In order to increase the service life of wooden poles, their lower part must be treated with a special impregnation and covered with a layer of bitumen mastic. The rest of the surface must be impregnated with drying oil and painted.
Metal racks can be made from steel pipes of square, rectangular or round cross-section, as well as from an equal-flange angle. Other types of shaped metal products are more expensive, their use will no longer be economically justified.
The recommended pipe diameter is 50 mm or a profile section within 40-50 mm. The corner shelf must be at least 50 mm, the optimal size is 60 mm. The metal thickness in any of the options is 2-4 mm.
Source: https://DomZastroika.ru/zabor/kak-ustanovit-zabor-iz-rabitsy-svoimi-rukami.html
Instructions for installing a chain-link fence
Table 1 shows the standard dimensions of the chain-link mesh, the corresponding minimum recommended pole lengths, and the recommended pole heights above ground level.
Table 1. Lengths of pillars No. Height of the chain-link mesh h1, mm Length of the pillar used h2, mm Height of the pillar above ground level, mm| 1 | 1200 | 2000 | 1200 |
| 2 | 1500 | 2000 / 2400 | 1500 |
| 3 | 1800 | 2400 | 1800 |
| 4 | 2000 | 2800 | 2000 |
2. Marking the territory
Marking the area for the future fence is carried out using wooden pegs and a strong thin cord. Initially, the installation locations for corner and end posts, posts for wickets and gates, and intermediate posts are determined. When marking the location of intermediate posts, a pitch of 2500 mm should be taken into account. If it is impossible to maintain a column pitch of 2500 mm, the pitch should be reduced to the required value.
If a chain-link fence is installed using threaded clamps and tension wire, then it is necessary to provide holes in the ground for installing stops (Fig. 1).
Rice. 1 - The depth of the holes for installing the support for the post and the fence post are the same
| Chain-link mesh height, mm | N, mm | Dimensions of the pit for installing the stop, mm |
| 1200 | 800 | 600x250 |
| 1500 | 1000 | |
| 1800 | 1200 | |
| 2000 | 1300 |
3. Installation of pillars
In accordance with the preliminary markings, holes are dug for fence posts.
Preparing the post hole depending on the soil type:
a) For heaving soils, it is necessary to make special preparations for the installation sites of the pillars. To do this, a hole of 800x800x1200 mm is dug (Fig. 2). The depth of the hole under the post must be no less than the depth of soil freezing (for the Republic of Belarus, the depth of soil freezing is 1000-1200 mm).
Medium fraction sand or ASG is poured into the pit and thoroughly compacted. The filled hole is watered abundantly. Under normal weather conditions, after 48 hours you can begin drilling with a manual (mechanical) drill or digging a hole for concreting a pillar using a shovel.
The minimum recommended foundation depth for a pillar is 1000mm.
Rice. 2. Pole hole. (*—dimensions for reference)
| Fence height, mm | N, mm |
| 1200 | 800 |
| 1500 | 500 (for a 2,000mm post)/1000 (for a 2,400mm post) |
| 1800 | 600 |
| 2000 | 800 |
b) For sandy soils and areas with asphalt and gravel surfaces, the foundation depth is at least 1000 mm without additional preparation.
When installing fence posts, the following sequence is observed:
— The first to be installed are corner and end posts, posts at break points in the fence, posts for gates and gates;
— between the corner (end) pillars a nylon thread is stretched along the upper cut of the pillar;
— intermediate pillars are installed. The height of the pillars above the ground is controlled by a stretched string. The vertical installation of each pillar is checked using a building level or plumb line.
The process of pouring concrete into a pillar occurs in the following order:
— the required layer of concrete is poured into the pit for concreting the pillar;
— a pole is installed. Concrete is poured into the hole around the post and compacted. The vertical installation of each pillar is checked using a building level or plumb line;
— the pillars are fixed in a strictly vertical position with wooden stops, guy wires or other available material;
— After the concrete hardens, special polymer plugs are placed on all pillars.
For the foundation of the fence, it is recommended to use concrete grade C12/15 with a crushed stone fraction (or ASG) of no more than 2 cm. It takes 48 to 72 hours for the concrete to completely harden.
4. Assembling a mesh fence
After installing the posts, the next step in installing the fence is installing the mesh.
Important:
Assembly of fence elements in mounting option 4.2. and 4.3. carried out using self-tapping screws - self-tapping screws. To prevent the screws from turning when tightening, the torque of the screwdriver should be limited (as a rule, 8 Nm is sufficient; if the screw gets into the seam lock of the pipes, the torque must be increased)
4.1. Option for attaching the mesh using tie wire
The mesh is attached to the posts using galvanized wire.
The sequence of attaching the chain-link mesh to the posts:
— The roll is unrolled in the area along the line of pillars. If you need several rolls, then you need to immediately connect them together into one mesh. To do this, the wire is turned out from the end of one roll and from the beginning of the next. Then use these parts of the mesh to connect it together. You need to do the same with all the other rolls.
— the mesh is attached to the post using metal wire. Then the next span of the fence is stretched and attached to the post with wire (Fig. 3). Installing the mesh on poles requires one or two assistants to support the mesh while tensioning.
The main rule during installation is to prevent the wire from sagging and uneven tension.
Rice. 3
4.2. Mesh fastening option using threaded clamps
The mesh is attached to the posts using galvanized threaded clamps.
Sequence of attaching the mesh to the posts:
- mesh rolls are connected to each other in accordance with clause 4.1;
— a tension rod is threaded into one end of the mesh fabric;
- part of the mesh with a rod inside rises to a vertical position and leans against the first post. Using a clamp, the mesh is attached to the post (Fig. 4);
— then the mesh is stretched between the posts and fixed with clamps (Fig. 5);
— every 20-25 meters and at the end of the fence, the mesh is attached to the posts using a tension rod.
The main rule during installation is to avoid sagging of the mesh wire and uneven tension.
4.3. Mesh fastening option using threaded clamps and tension wire
Sequence of attaching the mesh to the posts:
- on the corner and end posts and posts every 20-25 meters, brackets (ratchets) are attached using tying wire, which are used to tension the wire (Fig. 6); It is recommended to mount the brackets from the top of the post at a distance of 25÷70 mm, from the ground surface at a distance of 70÷100 mm.
Rice. 6
— the mesh rolls are connected to each other in accordance with clause 4.1;
— a tension rod is threaded into one end of the mesh fabric;
- part of the mesh with a rod inside rises to a vertical position and leans against the first post. Using a clamp, the mesh is attached to the post (Fig. 4);
- then the mesh is stretched between the posts and fixed with clamps (Fig. 5);
— every 20-25 meters and at the end of the fence, the mesh is attached to the posts using a tension rod;
— after installing the mesh, a wire is threaded along the entire length into the outermost upper and lower cells for tension;
— the ends of the wire threaded through the chain-link mesh are inserted into brackets (ratchets) and the process of tensioning the wire occurs (Fig. 8);
— after tensioning, Ø8 mm holes are drilled in the posts for wire holders. It is recommended to drill holes at the same distance from the top of the post on which the brackets for tensioning the wire were attached.
— a wire holder is inserted into the drilled hole, then the wire is inserted into this holder and fixed with a hook (Fig. 7).
Rice. 7. Installing the wire holder
The main rule during installation is to avoid sagging of the mesh wire and uneven tension.
5. Maintenance of products made of galvanized steel and galvanized steel with polymer coating
In order for a metal fence assembled from Skyprofile materials to perform its functions for a long time and reliably, it is necessary to perform the following operations:
— The condition of thin sheet steel products and their fastenings should be checked by external inspection at least once a year.
— Contaminated surfaces should be cleaned with a soft brush and washed off with running water or a pressure washer (maximum pressure 50 bar) from top to bottom. Heavily contaminated areas should be washed with a diluted soap solution. Residues of detergents must be thoroughly washed off.
— The use of solvents or other chemically active substances that may damage the polymer coating is not allowed.
— Damage to the polymer coating that occurs during installation or as a result of other actions is eliminated using special paint sold by Skyprofile. Further development of damage is eliminated by timely repair of defects.
If the scratch does not penetrate the zinc layer, one coat of careful painting is sufficient; if the scratch reaches the steel, painting should be done in two layers using a primer. Before restorative painting, the damaged area is cleaned and degreased (and rust is also removed, if any occurs).
The paint is applied with a thin brush only to the scratches, without expanding the repair area. This prevents any noticeable color difference between the painted surface and the original surface.
Source: https://skyprofil.by/dokumentacija/instruktsiya-po-montazhu-zabora-iz-setki-rabitsy/
A simple and quick solution: we build a chain-link fence with our own hands
If only functionality is required from the fence, and aesthetics do not matter, the easiest way is to stretch a chain-link mesh between the posts. It is cheap, does not shade green spaces, and, being completely ventilated, does not experience wind loads. This article describes how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands.
Materials
To create a fence you need:
- Rabitz. Basically, rolls of 1.5-meter width with a mesh of 40 or 50 mm are used;
- pipe for making posts. It’s better to take a profiled one - it’s easier to weld to it. Acceptable size is 60x60x2 mm or 80x80x2 mm. Especially for the installation of mesh fencing, racks with hooks welded to them are produced. An alternative option is pillars made of wood or concrete. But they are not popular. The first - due to their short service life, the second - due to bulkiness;
- cement, sand, crushed stone. If the soil is dense, the posts do not need to be concreted: due to complete ventilation, the mesh fencing is impervious to wind force. In soft soil, it is better to fill the supports with concrete;
- Depending on the design features of the fence, a corner, wire or rod may be required.
The mesh is available in three versions:
- without anti-corrosion coating . The cheapest modification, but it will have to be painted every two years. It is advisable to purchase this material only for temporary structures;
- galvanized _ It costs more, but you don’t have to take care of it;
- with polymer coating . This option is not only corrosion-resistant, but also attractive: the plastic protective film can be any color.
If you plan to build a permanent fence, then you should give preference to the option with a polymer coating.
Calculation of the quantity of materials
The calculation is carried out taking into account the following:
- the installation step of the posts is 2-2.5 m. If, for example, the perimeter of the fence is 200 m, 80-100 supports will be required (in a closed loop their number is equal to the number of spans);
- the above-ground part of the support is 10 cm above the panel. The gap between the lower edge of the mesh and the ground is 10 cm: this prevents the destruction of the metal and facilitates the procedure for removing debris. Consequently, with a roll width of 1.5 m, the height of the above-ground part of the column will be 1.7 m;
- the length of the recessed part of the support is equal to one third of the outer part. No longer required, since the canvas has zero windage. Therefore, with a length of the above-ground part of 1.7 m, the buried part will be 60 cm, which means that the entire rack will have a length of 2.3 m;
- The length of the mesh in a roll is 10 m. Accordingly, with a perimeter length of 200 m, the required number of rolls will be 20 pcs. + 1 in reserve.
If the mesh is supposed to be attached to hooks, then 3 pieces will be needed for each support. The number of other elements (angle, plates, wire) depends on the construction method.
Manufacturing of tension fence
This is the simplest design of mesh fencing. It will require minimal financial and labor costs. Next, each stage of construction is discussed in detail.
Site marking
Preliminarily mark the location of the supports on the site:
- in the area where the fence is installed, large plants and debris are removed, depressions and mounds are leveled;
- markers (stakes) are driven into the ground at the corners of the site boundaries;
- a cord is pulled between them;
- along the towline from the entrance to the site, mark with pegs the position of the wicket and gate posts;
- measure the distance between the corner markers, and from the corners to the installation site of the goal posts.
Then, for each side, the span length is selected from the range of 2-2.5 m, so that a whole number of them fit in the space between the markers, and they themselves are approximately equal along the entire perimeter of the fence. It remains to place markers along the string in increments equal to the accepted span length, thus indicating the location of the supports.
Preparing holes for pillars
It is more convenient to make holes for posts using a garden drill. Depth - 10-15 cm more than the buried part of the column. At the bottom of the excavation, a sand or sand-crushed stone cushion 10-15 cm thick is arranged. The material is compacted in layers of 5 cm, after watering it with water. This is a drainage cushion: it does not retain moisture, so the base of the column remains dry.
Installation of load-bearing pillars
The supports are installed in the following sequence:
- a “heel” (a square plate for support) and hooks are welded to the posts, then they are primed and painted, and the buried part is also covered with bitumen or polymer-bitumen mastic;
- randomly choose one of the sides of the future fence and install the outer supports. Each column is brought into a strictly vertical position using a plumb line and temporarily fixed with wooden wedges or fragments of brick;
- Using a water level, determine which rack has the lower top. Sand is added under it until both posts are the same in height;
- Having removed the wedges, concrete is poured into the holes with installed racks or a mixture of soil and sand is filled with a layer-by-layer tamper. The rack cavity is filled with the same material;
- The cord is pulled strictly horizontally between the supports, for which equal distances are removed from the tops. A thick wire is laid between the cord and each stand. Without this, when installing other racks, they would have to touch the cord, which could lead to its unnoticeable bending.
Then the intermediate posts are installed one after another, observing the following conditions:
- strictly vertical position (controlled by a plumb line);
- the distance from the top to the cord is the same as that of the outer supports;
- the gap between the post and the twine is equal to the thickness of the wire laid under it on the corner posts.
Methods for installing fence posts
All vertical parts are welded on top with plugs. They also practice driving a post into the ground. They drill a small hole, install a support, put a glass on top to protect the head from flattening, and hammer it in with a sledgehammer. This option is suitable for dense soil.
Fastening the mesh
The easiest way is to unfold the mesh and hook it onto the hooks of the supports, having first tensioned it properly. You can do without hooks - just tie the fabric with wire or clamps. But such a fence will soon sag.
It is more correct to use guy wires with a diameter of 4-6 mm; there are two installation methods:
- the panel is “stitched” with wire, passing it through each cell, then the fabric is mounted, tensioning the stretch with tensioners or ties. This is an ideal option, but it is labor-intensive, especially since at least two strings are required, and preferably three;
- First, tension wires are stretched between the posts, and then a web is screwed to them with wire every 20-30 cm. This is a simpler installation method.
Stretch marks put a significant load on the corner posts, which is why it is recommended to make them from a larger diameter pipe.
But the installation step of the supports can be increased to 3 m. The strongest fences are on logs - crossbars made of profiled pipes welded to the supports. It is allowed to use steel bars or reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 mm.
Do this:
- roll out and secure the mesh on the posts using hooks or clamps;
- thread a rod through the cells;
- weld the rod to the vertical structural elements.
To evenly stretch the mesh, a rod is threaded through the cells and the panel is stretched by two people from above and below.
Manufacturing a sectional fence
Tension fencing made of chain-link mesh, whether on a string or on joists, looks tacky. It gives the impression of an unfinished, temporary fence.
Sectional chain-link fence
A sectional fence looks much neater, where the mesh in each span is placed in a “frame”. The manufacturing procedure is discussed next.
Frame assembly
The “frame” is assembled from a corner 40x40x5 mm. A corner with a 50 mm shelf is also suitable.
They do the following:
- cutting rolled metal into blanks. The dimensions are selected so that the length of the section is 15-20 cm less than the clearance between the supports, and the height is equal to the width of the mesh roll (internal space of the section). Cut strictly perpendicularly;
- Lay out a rectangle from the blanks on a flat surface. The perpendicularity of the sides is confirmed by the equality of the diagonals. If they differ in length, then there is a skew, that is, the result is not a rectangle, but a rhombus;
- they grab the workpieces by electric welding and again check the equality of the diagonals (the frame could “lead”);
- finally welded.
Scale is removed from the metal using a brush with metal bristles.
Mesh preparation
The mesh filling in the frame is installed as follows:
- the roll is rolled out on a flat surface and, after stretching, a fragment equal to the length of the section is cut off with metal scissors or a grinder (it is better to cut directly on the frame);
- The outer rows of cells are “stitched” with steel rods: for each piece of panel you will need 4 pieces. They are not welded together;
- place the mesh in a rigid frame. Then the rod, tucked along the long side of the panel, is connected to the corner with short seams every 150-200 mm;
- lead by the opposite rod, pulling the fabric, and repeat the operation.
The side rods are welded in the same way. Finally, the seams are also treated with a wire brush.
Installation of sections
To attach the sections to the posts (on each side), two 5-mm-thick plates measuring 5x15 cm are first welded.
The fillings are welded to the dies (the most popular method) or bolted.
When installing the section, the following conditions must be observed:
- strictly vertical position (controlled by a plumb line);
- Along the top edge, the section is in line with the rest.
If these instructions are not followed, the fence will look sloppy. Finally, the structure is primed and painted.
Installation on problematic surfaces
In areas with a slope, the sections are still installed horizontally, but each subsequent one is lower than the previous one. The fence line ultimately resembles a terraced slope or, in everyday language, steps. For this design, it is necessary to increase the length of the intermediate posts. Then you will be able to attach the canvas higher on one side and lower on the other. The length of the span is selected so that there is not too much clearance at the edge under the canvas on the side of the lower ground.
That is, the steeper the slope, the shorter the spans are made. To ensure that the clearance under the fence remains constant, you can make a shallow concrete parapet.
Source: https://masterlandshafta.ru/zabor/iz-setki-rabicy-svoimi-rukami.html
Terol Torg company: 3D fencing, gates, roller shutters
Chain-link mesh is a practical and durable material used to install boundary fences with good visibility. It does not cast a shadow and is quite easy to install.
Installation Methods
Installation of chain-link mesh provides two methods for constructing a fence:
- The installation involves fixing ready-made sections of metal corners with a stretched mesh to the supports. This method is rarely used, since there is a need for corners and reinforced fixation to the support.
- Attach the chain-link mesh to metal posts, previously rolled. This method is popular because the work is carried out quickly and is minimally labor intensive.
Preparatory work
First, you always need to purchase a chain-link mesh in the required volume. The amount of material is determined by the perimeter of the site. Take into account overlaps and material consumption when fixing. In terms of material, it is better to give preference to galvanized mesh or an option with a polymer layer.
They are less susceptible to moisture and have an anti-corrosion effect.
The construction of a chain-link fence with your own hands involves the use of posts. They can be made of metal, wood or concrete. In this case, metal is considered the best option.
The pillars need to be prepared:
- Metal ones are primed and painted. You can coat the part that goes into the ground with bitumen.
- Wooden ones are impregnated with an antiseptic composition and painted. The excavated area is coated with bitumen mastic.
- Concrete supports do not require preparation.
Territory marking
Installing a chain-link mesh with your own hands involves preparing the site, during which you need to mark the outline of the future fence:
- Marks are placed at the corners by driving in stakes.
- The marks are connected with a cord or rope to outline the contour of the fence and further measure the footage of the required material (with a margin of several meters).
- Marks are placed under the pillars. It is optimal that the distance between them is 2-2.5 m.
- If there is a large slope, terracing is carried out - an additional reliable pillar is placed at the junction of the heights. It also needs to be labeled differently from the others.
Necessary materials and tools
To install a chain-link fence, you need:
- Calculate the amount of material taking into account the allowance.
- Decide on the number of pillars.
- Purchase wire that will secure the chain-link mesh.
- Select and buy fasteners - nuts and bolts, staples, clamps and plates.
- Stock up on material designed to strengthen support pillars.
Tools that will be useful:
- Pliers and hammer;
- Welding equipment;
- Bulgarian.
Installation of support pillars
As we have already found out, in order to connect the chain-link mesh to each other, support pillars are needed. They are installed in the following order:
- A well 1.2 m deep is dug at the mark site.
- Crushed stone and sand are poured onto the bottom in layers, compacting the material each time. An anti-corrosion coating is applied to the lower part of a profile pipe or pole made of another material.
- The support is placed in the pit.
- The free space is filled with concrete (composition: 1/3 sand, 1/3 crushed stone, 1/3 cement, water).
- Be sure to check with a level whether the pillars are level.
- The concrete is pierced 3-4 times with a shovel to compact it.
The corner supports are installed first, then the rest. You can install the mesh on the poles after the concrete has completely hardened (approximately 7 days).
As an alternative to concrete, you can use compacted rubble stone - then you won’t have to wait.
Stretching the mesh and securing it to poles
The fixation of the chain-link largely depends on what kind of supports you have installed. If there are no special hooks on them, you will have to weld fasteners onto the pipes. These can be nails, pieces of wire, or other means that can be bent into a hook shape.
The tensioning of the chain-link begins with the corner support, clinging to the hooks. It is better to stretch a rod with a diameter of at least 3 mm through the first row of cells and weld it to the support - this will eliminate the deflection of the mesh.
Next, the mesh roll is unwound to the next post. To obtain even tension, thread the rod vertically through the row of cells and hold it directly. It is better if you have an assistant who will monitor the evenness of the edge. You can also involve a second assistant who will fasten the canvas to the hooks. The mesh should be strengthened along the entire length of the fence by welding rods to the posts.
When working with corner posts, it is better not to encircle them with a mesh cloth. You need to cut the mesh and fix each part separately. All fastening hooks must then be bent. If there is too much material somewhere, after fixing, step back a row of cells and remove the excess.
A chain-link mesh gate is made using a similar method, only instead of pillars a frame made of a metal profile is used. We put it on the hinges, and everything is ready.
how to stretch chain-link mesh onto a fence
Source: https://terol.by/informatsiya/stati/kak-pravilno-natyanut-setku-rabitsu-na-zabor/
Installing a chain-link fence: step-by-step tips from builders
Russian Fence Company. We are engaged in the installation of fences, gates (including automatic ones), installation of poles and power lines throughout Moscow and the Moscow region. Call: 762-97-99 from 09:00 to 21:00 daily.
Metal mesh is a convenient option for demarcating an area. This is due to the availability of the material, ease of installation, and minimal labor costs. High-quality installation of a chain-link fence has certain nuances on which the durability of the fence depends.
Chainlink fence
Choosing the right grid
The mesh differs in cell sizes, as well as in the material used. The cheapest is considered to be a mesh with large cells, woven from black wire. It is not suitable for a permanent fence, but is suitable for temporary fencing. Black wire corrodes easily, so it will only last three to four years. Sometimes its service life is extended by painting or treating it with bitumen.
Galvanized wire makes the mesh strong, durable, and more attractive in appearance. This kind of chain-link is more expensive, but it can be used to build permanent fences - light but durable. Nowadays, manufacturers additionally coat galvanization with protective polymers, which give the mesh a different color.
In order to choose correctly and not overpay, you must first decide on the purpose of the mesh. If you need to temporarily fence or demarcate an area, you should not take an expensive chain link; the most ordinary one will do. If you plan to install a permanent fence, be sure to choose high-quality galvanized mesh. To make the fence decorative, you can purchase colored mesh.
Galvanized mesh
Fine mesh netting is usually purchased for fencing poultry to prevent chickens from crawling into other areas, such as the garden. If the fence is needed for demarcation, a chain-link with large or medium cells is suitable. Everyone chooses the height of the fence separately; The mesh width is from a meter to 1.8 m, the standard length is 10 m.
How to choose support pillars
High-quality installation of a chain-link fence with your own hands implies not only technology, but also a competent choice of load-bearing supports.
They are:
- metal;
- wooden;
- reinforced concrete;
- asbestos.
The light weight of the fence allows the use of a metal profile with a cross-section of 60x40 mm, thin pipes and channels. Such supports have a relatively high price, but they look neat and last a long time. Iron fence elements need to be treated with anti-corrosion mixtures and also require painting periodically. If hollow posts are used, they must be covered with canopies or special covers on top.
Columns from profile
Wooden posts are not as strong, but are much cheaper. The processing of wooden stakes for mesh is simple: they are cleared of bark, thoroughly sanded, the lower part is coated with bitumen, the rest is painted or primed with an antifungal compound. This allows you to significantly extend the service life of the columns.
Reinforced concrete pillars, like asbestos pipes, are the most convenient supports for such a fence. They are cheaper than metal ones, more durable, do not require processing, and they also do not need to be repainted annually. In any weather conditions, concrete supports are consistently reliable.
The installation process includes the following steps:
- perimeter markings;
- digging holes;
- installation of poles;
- mesh fastening.
Despite the simplicity of execution, the installation of a chain-link fence still has certain subtleties on which the reliability of the structure depends.
Making the markings
You need to determine the location of the corner posts by marking them with pegs. Then connect them with a stretched cord, fishing line or rope. If the fence has turns, measure the required distance from the post, drive in a peg and pull the cord again.
This is how the perimeter of the future fence is marked. Next, you need to outline the locations of the remaining supports. To avoid unnecessary sagging, the pillars are placed every 2 m, maximum 2.5 m.
This means that they measure 2 meters from the corner and put a mark, and so on until the end of the fence.
Fence marking
How to dig holes correctly
For such a light fence, it is not necessary to dig the posts very deeply. Sometimes they are simply driven in if the soil is dense enough and there is no risk of flooding of the area. This method is justifiable to use temporarily, but for a permanent fence it is better to dig the posts and concrete them.
The easiest way to dig holes is with a garden drill; it is convenient, quick and saves energy. You won't be able to dig a narrow hole with a shovel; then you'll have to fill it up a lot and compact it. The depth of the holes is approximately 1 m, on loose soil - 1.2 m.
Often, the installation of mesh fences is carried out this way: holes are dug only to half the required depth, after which the supports are driven in.
Chain link fastening
The better the preparation, the easier it is to install chain-link fences. The first roll of mesh is placed vertically near the corner post. Using a knitting wire, the edge of the fabric is attached to the support in three places along the height. Unwinding the mesh, the roll is moved to another post and pulled tightly.
Again they fix it with wire and move on. Another way: the roll is unwound completely along the line of the pillars, then with a sharp movement the mesh is lifted vertically and one end is screwed to the support.
From the other end of the roll, a section of profile is threaded vertically into the cells - this will help to properly tension the mesh and not damage the shape of the cells.
Attaching the mesh to the stand
The second option requires the presence of an assistant, otherwise the chain-link will get tangled. It is very important to tension the canvas evenly, or some spans will be level, others will sag. You should not attach the mesh close to the ground - you need to leave a distance of 15 cm from the ground. When the canvas is completely secured, a thick wire must be threaded along the top of the mesh to prevent possible sagging. If you need to connect two pieces of mesh, unscrew the wire spiral and tie both pieces together with it.
Following these recommendations, installing a chain-link fence is easy. Its further operation will not require special care or costs. If necessary, it can be tinted.
Using chain link mesh for fencing
Remember:
Source: http://rusograda.ru/zabory/ustanovka-zabora-iz-setki-rabicy
Chainlink fence
You and I should thank Karl Rabitz for his amazing invention - a sectional chain-link fence. For more than a hundred years, it has been actively used by summer residents and gardeners, engineers, builders and architects. Some urgently needed to fence a chicken coop, others needed to fence their plot of land.
Chain-link mesh is found almost everywhere. By the way, when delimiting certain areas of land, a fence made of opaque material cannot be installed. So there is not and cannot be any serious alternative to a chain-link fence.
With a minimal set of tools and steady hands, absolutely any man can install such a fence.
The main criteria for choosing a chain-link mesh
Anyone can distinguish a chain-link fence from any other fence just by looking at a photo. Indeed, this is the name of the canvas, which is made of many wire spirals. They are securely woven together. Design features allow you to quickly form sections. The cell size can vary between 20-100 mm. The most popular size is considered to be 30-50 mm. The height of the roll is also different, it can be either 1 or 2 meters.
First of all, when choosing a chain link for a fence, pay attention to the wire. Its diameter varies from 1.2 to 5 mm, the type of coating also differs:
- There is no coverage. The so-called “black” chain-link. We do not recommend buying such a mesh for solid fences. It is not durable, and its high-quality painting is out of the question.
- Zinc coating. This option is considered the most common. After some time, a DIY chain-link fence will lose its color, but will not become covered with rust. Therefore, it can serve you for more than a dozen years.
- Stainless steel coating. Believe it or not, a fence made of such material is considered almost eternal. Its main drawback is the price. If you need to fence a decent area, a stainless steel mesh can “hit” the family budget.
- Polymer coating. Such products appeared on sale relatively recently, but have already managed to find their customers. Judge for yourself: the service life is decent, a wide range of colors allows you to realize almost any fantasy.
Stage 1. Installation of supports
Whatever installation option you choose, you will definitely need to mark the area and install poles. This is what you and I will do.
Installing a chain-link fence involves accurately measuring the boundaries of the fence. You also need to decide in advance on the location of the gate and wicket. The construction site is cleared of all kinds of debris and unnecessary vegetation in advance. After this, you need to drive metal or wooden stakes where you plan to install the corner posts and supports.
How to determine the location for installing intermediate posts? It’s very simple - take a strong cord and pull it neatly between the stakes. After this, measure the distance. We recommend placing racks at a distance of 2 or 2.5 meters from each other. The resulting distance is divided by 2.5 and rounded up.
This procedure during the installation of a fence from any chain-link will allow you to determine the exact number of corner posts. Since the thickness of the posts, the appearance of the fence and the underlying soil can be different, there are several types of installation. Wooden poles? Immediately “no”, since they are short-lived. Concrete? This is also not the best option, because you will definitely have difficulties when attaching the mesh.
We also recommend reading
It is most convenient to install a chain-link fence using metal posts made of a profile or square pipe. Its diameter is from 6 cm in diameter. In the future, we will consider this particular option, which allows us to install the chain link efficiently and reliably.
During installation you can use the following methods:
- Drive the posts into the ground.
- Place in a deep hole, cover with crushed stone and compact well.
- Concrete completely or partially.
All these examples are clearly demonstrated by the photo:
When placing posts for a future chain-link fence, it is extremely important to correctly calculate their length and depth, find out the level of groundwater, the degree of freezing of the ground, etc. use a simple rule - at least 40% of the height of the post should be in the ground.
In practice, this process looks like this:
- Install the corner posts. Make sure that they are strictly vertical - use a level to do this.
- Prepare holes to install intermediate posts. We advise you to stock up on a good drill. It will be much easier for you to install a chain-link fence with your own hands, especially if the soil on the site is not the softest.
- When the concrete hardens, we begin to pull the cord, but already along the top of the racks. This will allow us to control the height of the intermediate supports. It will not be superfluous to tension the cord below. This way you can check if the pillars are on the same line.
- Regular sand will help make the task of leveling the supports easier. It is poured to the bottom first, and as work progresses you just change the height of the improvised “pillow”. By the way, you can build a fence using gravel or small crushed stone, which you use to replace sand.
- All racks that have been adjusted in height are finally poured with concrete, after which they are primed and painted. You will have to wait at least a week for the concrete to harden properly. In the photo below you can see how to use the cord when installing intermediate supports.
Stage 2. Construction of the fence
Fences for dachas are different, and their purpose is also significantly different. Some people need a very powerful fence for grazing animals, while others will want the lightest, simplest structure possible on the border with a neighbor’s land. Each task has its own version.
The simplest do-it-yourself chain-link fence involves simply attaching it to supports that we have already installed. Take one, or better yet two assistants - this will simplify the installation task.
- Roll out the chain link on the ground to a distance only slightly larger than the span. For example, if it is 2 meters, you roll out to 2.5 meters and so on.
- The edges of the spirals are bent with pliers. Firstly, this will save you from unwanted injuries, and secondly, it will prevent the mesh from unwinding during the installation process.
- During the fastening process, the mesh gradually unwinds further.
Next, a completely logical question arises: how to stretch the chain-link mesh on your site? Our advice: secure not the mesh itself, but a metal rod that is inserted vertically.
Its diameter should be from 6 to 10 mm. With the help of another such pin, the assistant will tension the fabric.
The rod installed in the support is attached as follows:
- You can secure it with soft wire. The method, although fast, is not very beautiful.
- Instead of wire, fixation is carried out using special clamps. A visual photo shows what it looks like in real life:
- You put the pin on the hooks that were prepared in advance, and then bend them. Hooks can be made from pieces of thick wire: diameter 0.4-0.6 cm, length 5-8 cm. They are welded to the stand at a distance of about 40-50 cm.
Improved version using lags
How to make a chain-link fence not only beautiful, but also as reliable as possible? It's simple - weld the joists to the racks. It is desirable that they be made of profile pipe. This method of fastening is good because you do not need to install additional braces for the racks. However, the photo speaks for itself:
A fence with logs is good because in the future you can easily decorate the fence even more and hang additional material on it.
The chain-link can be easily changed to slate or corrugated sheet. This will make the fence more powerful and solid.
A fence made of sections is the most practical solution
Surely, you have heard about such a thing as a sectional fence made of ordinary chain-link. It is a fence consisting of sections (corner plus mesh). Despite certain difficulties in manufacturing, the sectional design does have many advantages:
- From an aesthetic point of view, a sectional fence can be considered one of the most beautiful.
- Since each section has its own structural element, there will definitely not be any issues with the chain-link sagging or loss of its properties.
- The sections are easily dismantled, and previously used posts can serve as support for the construction of a new fence.
- Like a combined corrugated fence, this type of fencing can be installed even on an area with a large slope. An ordinary chain-link tensions when the level increases by no more than 6 degrees, which fully corresponds to a slope of 1:10. Any excess of these values is already a reason to install a sectional fence, as shown in the photo:
We will not dwell in detail on this type of installation, since it does not differ significantly from previous methods. Unless you have to use a grinder or a mounting saw to cut the pieces to the required size.
Decorating a chain-link mesh: the most unusual solutions
Those who would like to move away from the classical canons will be interested in our next section. He clearly describes how making a seemingly traditional chain-link fence can be turned into a fun activity.
The first and, perhaps, one of the most beautiful ways is to make patterns from wire. Despite the fact that it is quite labor-intensive, the result will please you for a long time.
As an option, you can weave bright cords and ribbons from polymer. It is catchy, lively, but not durable at all.
The installation of a chain-link fence and subsequent planting of living plants should not be discounted. The main thing is to remove dry branches and leaves in a timely manner. This is especially true in the autumn-winter period.
An interesting, and to some extent even unusual, solution would be a light-shading mesh. It can have a wide variety of color shades. It greatly affects the weight, so they are not suitable for a regular tension fence - unlike fencing made of corrugated sheets and chain-link mesh.
Recently, the so-called photo fence has become very popular. It is made of decorative photo mesh or PVC. The material is not only beautiful, but also expensive, so it all depends on the state of your wallet.
So, we have smoothly approached the logical conclusion of the article. Now you know how to install a fence made of mesh. We wish you success in construction, may your new fence please you for many years to come!
Source: https://lanshaft.com/postroyki/zabor-iz-setki-rabitsy.html
How to make a chain-link fence with your own hands: Instructions +
This article was created to provide information about the features of installing a chain-link fence with your own hands. Here you will find out what chain-link mesh is made of, what determines its quality and cost.
We will provide a step-by-step technology for manufacturing a regular and sectional fence.
You will learn how to install supports and what material is best suited for this purpose.
If you need to fence the area
A chain-link fence is the best option if you need to fence off an area. As they say, cheap and cheerful, and in a short period of time, with minimal effort.
Chain-link mesh is a very flexible material with which you can make rounded sections of the fence. The service life depends on the quality of the material, and ranges from 5 to 30 years, or even more.
Installation of a chain-link fence can be done by tensioning between supports or sectionally between piles.
The material for the pillars can be anything: brick, metal, wood.
Types of mesh
To produce chain-link mesh, black low-carbon metal wire with a diameter of 1 - 6.5 mm is used, which is intertwined.
Thus, a recognizable square or diamond-shaped pattern with an angle of 60°, measuring 2.5 × 100 mm, is obtained. The thickness of the wire depends on the area of use.
In addition to being used for fencing, mesh is used at construction sites, as well as for making cages for animals and birds.
Chain-link mesh made of simple wire
It goes without treatment, undergoes rapid deformation, and becomes covered with rust. This grid has to be changed frequently.
Considering this, the price of this material is low. Some use it as a temporary option, later replacing it with a better quality mesh or another material.
Painting, which should be carried out immediately after stretching, will help extend the service life.
Galvanized mesh
The price is slightly higher than the previous option, and due to the coating it has a longer service life.
This is the most commonly used mesh option because it combines reasonable price and quality.
Plasticized mesh
A material that appeared on the market relatively recently.
It differs in that polymer paint is applied to the base of the metal wire at the production stage.
The mesh is good because it does not corrode, is quite moisture resistant, has a wonderful appearance and is painted in different colors (cherry, black, green, pastel).
Gitter mesh
An alternative version of the chain link.
It is made from steel rods 3–6 mm in diameter, which are attached to each other using spot welding.
This mesh can last about 50 years.
Outwardly it resembles a lattice, which is why it got the name “gitter”. By bending individual sections you can get rigid ribs. The price of a chain-link mesh ranges from 400 rubles per 1 m² of ordinary metal coated with polymers, and 600 rubles per 1 m² of a mesh made of 5 mm rods.
Pros of chain-link mesh
A do-it-yourself chain-link fence is popular among owners of suburban summer cottages, primarily due to its low price. In addition, you can create quite attractive fences from mesh using your imagination.
- Openwork patterns made from chain-link mesh are made onto a mesh with large cells using thin wire.
- You can plant climbing plants along the fence, which, as they grow, will create a living shield.
- Weaving artificial flowers into the cells will help enliven the appearance of the chain-link mesh.
- The mesh can be painted using aerosol paints.
- Given the light weight of the material, you do not need to install a strong frame or base.
- The mesh is resistant to rain and snow, and it is also quite difficult to deform using mechanical force.
- It is comfortable for plants to be near the mesh, since it does not create unnecessary shadow.
- The chain-link mesh does not require any maintenance. The exception is a fence made from untreated wire.
- Wide selection of materials, walking distance.
- Installation speed. The installation of the fence can be completed by two people in a day or two.
Minuses
With the correct selection of material, its care and installation, there are no disadvantages to chain-link mesh.
To make a chain-link fence with your own hands, you need to purchase the mesh itself, support posts and additional structural elements depending on its type.
To correctly calculate the funds, you need to make a preliminary project by measuring the perimeter of the territory. In order for the calculation to be correct, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of the terrain. The figure shows the locations of wickets, gates, and support posts.
Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands
The easiest way to build a fence is to stretch the mesh along the posts, with direct fastening. This method is not particularly reliable.
More suitable for cases where the fence is planned to be temporary. Sagging of the mesh very often occurs; pulling the wire through the mesh along the entire perimeter will help correct the situation.
Installing a chain-link fence using the sectional method looks quite attractive. Support pillars are installed at equal intervals and at the desired height.
A stack is attached between them. This method is expensive, but more reliable. Suitable for installation on uneven terrain.
reduce the cost of installing a chain-link fence if you use reinforcement as a frame. There is no need to make separate elements. You can stretch it into the mesh cells at the top and bottom, and weld it to the posts.
Fence posts made of chain-link mesh made of metal have the best performance characteristics. To install them, you just need to treat the metal with a primer and paint the part that will be sunk into the ground.
Any fastener can be welded to metal poles . You can buy such poles at any collection point for metal products, saving a lot of money.
Also, on the metal industry market there are support posts already painted with special hooks for constructing a sectional type fence. Their price is higher, but there is less hassle with them. It is recommended to use a rectangular profile, which is particularly durable due to the stiffening ribs.
Wooden supports are also popular due to their availability and low cost. But very often, the saying “the miser pays twice” comes into play. Wood tends to be subject to the negative influence of precipitation; various insects love it.
Soft woods are affordable but short-lived, while hard woods are too expensive. Using products to treat wood against parasites and rot, you can extend its service life by a couple of decades.
Asbestos cement pipes are also used as fence posts. They are strong and not very expensive. The cost ranges from 400 rubles per 1 m.
Brick chain-link fence posts are used extremely rarely as supports. These two materials look very awkward together. The monumentality of brick and the lightness of mesh is not a very attractive combination.
In order to install brick supports, you need to pour a solid foundation. But, as you know, chain-link mesh is used primarily because of its cheapness, and brick pillars only contribute to an increase in the cost of the project.
The same applies to concrete pillars. Yes, they are strong and durable and can last for many decades. But they are also inconvenient to install; they require pouring a foundation under the supports.
Do-it-yourself work on installing a chain-link fence begins with clearing the area.
Marking. Place pegs at the corners and pull a string between them. Then, mark the locations of the columns, at a distance of 2 - 2.5 m. This prevents the mesh from sagging.
You can calculate the number of posts by dividing the length of the fence section by 2 - 2.5. The total length will be divided by the average value. Example: side 35:2= 17.5 pillars, 35:2.5=14. We choose a round number 14. 37 m: 14 racks = 2.5 m.
Marks are placed along the line of the stretched cord and depressions are dug, the level of which should be 15–20 cm lower than the freezing point of the ground. These are approximate indicators that differ in each individual area.
However, the recess must be at least a meter. The mass of a chain-link fence is large, and if the holes are not made deep enough, the structure may tilt.
Metal supports are driven in with a sledgehammer, after laying down a board or plywood. This is done to avoid metal deformation. The installation of supports must be carried out in a uniform manner, in order to build one line.
After the concrete base of the pillars has hardened, you can begin stretching the chain-link mesh. A cord is pulled over the posts to determine the top level of the fence. The mesh is installed in such a way that there is no contact with the ground, which will cause the material to quickly become covered with rust.
The chain-link is attached to metal poles by welding, to wooden ones using nails every 15–20 cm. A mesh is attached to asbestos-cement and concrete poles using wire or plastic clamps.
They start fixing the mesh from the corner post, since going around it in the future is not very convenient. The mesh roll is placed in a vertical position and secured using any convenient method.
For ease of work, you can stretch the rod and fasten it by welding with hooks. This will allow the mesh to be stretched evenly. It is more convenient to work with several hands: one person holds, the second unwinds, the third secures.
In order to connect the edges of the chain-link to each other , you need to pull the wire from one edge. To avoid sagging of the chain-link fence, reinforcement or wire is passed through the cells and secured to the posts. Straight antennae on the chain-link are bent to avoid injury.
Technology for assembling a sectional fence from a chain-link mesh
Preliminary work is the same as described above. The first step is to install supports from the selected material. To install the mesh, you need to unwind the roll and select the desired piece by pulling out the wire.
To tension the mesh between the supports:
- twigs 4–5 mm thick are inserted into the outermost holes of the mesh;
- welded on one side inside the corner;
- reinforcement is placed below and above;
- using welding, they connect the reinforcement on the side where the mesh is fixed;
- the mesh is stretched and secured inside the frame of the pillars.
After the sections are secured, it is necessary to attach metal strips 4–5 mm thick to the supports, which should protrude along the sides of the pillars in such a way that it is possible to secure the frame. A sectional chain-link fence is labor-intensive, but its appearance is much better than usual.
The cost of constructing a chain-link fence depends on its design and the materials used. You can use the services of companies that install turnkey chain-link fences, or you can build it yourself, spending much less money.
Source: https://domsdelat.ru/poleznie-soveti/zabor-iz-setki-rabicy-svoimi-rukami-poshagovaya-instrukciya-foto.html
