How to make twisted wire

Twist for feeder - how to knit and use in installations

One of the common questions is how to make a twist from a fishing line for a feeder. This element is sometimes knitted separately, in other cases it is an inseparable part of the installation. The feeder twist is designed to protect the equipment from overlap during casting and reeling. In this article we will look at how to properly knit such a braid and in what cases it is used.

Stranding in feeder installations

Equipment with twisted feeder gear is used in various installations, and this element must be knitted carefully. A braid is not needed for beauty, but ensures the completion of a specific task. Some novice fishermen start twisting anywhere, without thinking about the mechanics of the work. This kind of diversion doesn’t just happen.

Only when used correctly does this equipment work properly. Twisting is actually a branch for a leash, which, due to twisting itself, acquires more elastic characteristics. As a result, the leash with the hook moves somewhat away from the main line. Due to the rigidity, overlaps and twisting do not occur.

Basic principles of forming a pigtail in a feeder:

1. It has a specific goal - to increase the rigidity of the leash shoulder and protect it from twisting and tangling.
2. The length is always greater than the outlet with the feeder trough. The point is to lower the leash lower so that during oscillations and movements the thin line does not end up where it is not needed.
3. The braid is made from rigid monofilament or fluorocarbon. If it is on soft fishing lines or braids, the required level of rigidity will not be achieved, and the whole idea will become meaningless.

The simplest solution to the problem is a plastic anti-twist tube. A feeder tie with an anti-twist is used in feeders and donks, especially at the initial level of development. This equipment is a solution for a beginner who does not yet know or cannot correctly knit classic feeder rigs. Twisting is a thinner and more accurate solution that provides the same functions, but the equipment is more accurate and sensitive.

Manufacturing process

To make a twist, you need to fold the fishing line in half and twist it, fixing the ends of the braid with a figure-of-eight or double-triple simple (surgical) knot. Manufacturing is generally identical for different cases, however, depending on the type of equipment, there are nuances. Applicable in the following cases:

• Retraction to a leash in a paternoster;
• In an asymmetrical or symmetrical loop;
• Retraction on a leash in inline (running);
• Transfer to the feeder online;
• Twisted from feedergam.

Material

Material requirements:

1. You need to twist a rigid line. A soft twist will tangle and wrap around the main line, just like a regular lead.
2. This is the direct working part of the equipment, which is in contact with the bottom, stones, and shells. An important characteristic is abrasion resistance, resistance to abrasion and microdamage.
3. The best material is real 100% fluorocarbon. However, such material is expensive. As an alternative, a regular rigid feeder line is suitable, rigid, inextensible, and resistant to damage. Typically, fishing lines and fly with a diameter of 0.28-0.31 mm are used to form montages.
4. When using shock absorbers made of feedergam or plug rubber to strengthen the equipment (in the absence of this material with the required tensile load), they can be twisted, thus increasing the thickness and strength. Rubber braid also improves the leader's retraction from the rig due to its elasticity, but to a lesser extent than fluorocarbon or rigid line.
5. In some carp setups, it still makes sense to use braids made of braid, leadcore and leader material. But this applies more to carp fishing than to feeder fishing.

Paternoster

As already mentioned, you need to twist the feeder using a fishing line, and a rigid one, or use fluorocarbon. Therefore, it makes sense to knit a twist on a feeder paternoster if the main one is a monofilament, or a shock leader made of the same material.

In this case, the braid is knitted directly on this fishing line or shock leader as a single whole, in the process of creating a paternoster.

When used as the main braided cord, the paternoster is made as a separate installation from fluor or fishing line, and is entirely attached to the feeder equipment using the loop-to-loop method.

The advantage of the paternoster, which is why novice fishermen love it, is the simplicity and speed of creation. Twisting in the design complicates the process somewhat. But it solves the main problem of novice feeders who try to fish with this equipment - twisting and tangling of the leash.

Making a paternoster with twisting:

• We fold the fishing line in half and form a small loop for the leash at the fold. This must be done with a figure eight or surgical knot. Don't forget to wet the knot when tightening.
• We form a twist. There are two ways to do this. The first is to take each end with your hands and twist it inward with your fingers. Second, we lightly clamp the loop with our teeth and braid the ends together.
• We make the length such that it, together with the loop for the leash, is longer than the branch with the feeder.
• We secure the other end of the braid with a figure eight again.
• Thus, we get a twist from which two ends come out. One is for the main fishing line (for a loop attached to the main cord in the case of knitting a separate equipment), the second is a branch for the feeder.
• We cut the second end to the required length and attach the feeder (via a swivel with a clasp or a loop).

Sometimes a twisted outlet is made in the paternoster for the feeder. This is not for everybody. The functionality of such a twist is unclear. In a classic paternoster, the outlet to the feeder should be thinner and weaker than the main equipment - so that when it gets hooked, it will break off, and not the leash with the fish.

Symmetrical and asymmetrical loops

Twisting for the feeder in similar feeder installations is performed in exactly the same way. The differences are in the further tying of the installation, after tying the second figure eight to limit the length of the braid. In these loops, the twist performs the same function - it moves the leash below the feeder so that the equipment does not get tangled. More details - installation of an asymmetrical loop feeder.

Inline

In the Running Feeder Rig, which most anglers in our country call an inline feeder, the pigtail is made separately. There are no special installation connections, as in the first two cases.

The main line or shock leader simply passes through the eye of the feeder swivel in a sliding version. This running rig is limited by a swivel, a knot with a stopper (bead) or other means to prevent the feeder from sliding onto the leash.

The installation of such feeder equipment also depends on whether it is done on the main monofilament (shock leader) or on braid.

In the first case, everything is done as standard. Just remember to thread the base into the eye of the feeder swivel (retract bead) before tying it. A stopper or bead is first put on to protect the assembly from impacts from the feeder. We also do this if we knit the inline on a separate piece of monofilament, fluorocarbon, and then attach it to the main equipment.

When using braiding as the main one, if we pass it through the feeder, we knit the braid as a separate insert. It is convenient to use a swivel. On one side we tie a pigtail to it, on the other - the main one with a sliding feeder. At the other end, similarly, there is a loop for a leash. The requirements are the same - the length must exceed the overhang of the feeder (together with the outlet, if one is used.

If the feeder uses a branch to the feeder, then it also makes sense to do it on a pigtail and a bead) in contrast to the paternoster). Durable, rigid fluorocarbon is used - then the outlet is smooth. More details in A. Fadeev’s video about editing Running:

Pigtail from feedergam on the feeder

Twisting for feeder equipment from feedergam is done in exactly the same way. It can be installed in the installation either instead of twisting from monofilament, or as a spacer between the outlet and the leader. Another way is not to use a braid made of fishing line, replacing it entirely with a rubber one. Our article on feeder rubber discusses these installations in detail.

Source: https://rybafan.ru/fiderist/osnashhenie/skrutka-dlya-fidera

Wire wrap: basic techniques

Wire wrap: the basic techniques of working in this needlework technique require skills and dexterity from the master. Wire wrap is a popular trend in jewelry that has its own characteristics. However, if you get good at it and hone your techniques, your technical products will turn out to be unique and very original.  

Jewelry and individual parts of products are made by twisting wire and soldering individual metal elements together. After completion of the work, the jewelry is subjected to patination (special artificial aging) and polishing so that its appearance has luster and sophistication.  

What materials and tools are needed to make wire wrap?

To try your hand at twisting wire and creating jewelry, you should acquire an impressive set of tools. For this lesson you will need:

• wire made of copper, brass, cupronickel or silver with a diameter of 0.4 - 1.3 mm. For different patterns, different wires are used - curls, rings, arcs can be of different sizes;
• earrings (clasps or bases for earrings) made of the same metal as wire;
• beads, rhinestones, stones;
• wire cutters (platypus pliers or round nose pliers);
• sandpaper or needle file;
• side cutters; 
• hammer with anvil;
• portable gas burner;
• machine oil, ammonia, borax;
• protective products: gloves, plastic glasses, mask.

Before work, you should make sure that the wire does not have a varnish coating. How to do it? You need to heat a piece of wire and see: if there is burning and a smell, it means there is varnish and you should burn it before work. There is no need to hold the wire over the fire for a long time. If it is thin, it will quickly heat up and burn out. Pass it over the flame without pausing, sand it with sandpaper, then boil it with lemon juice and rinse with clean water.

Basic Wire wrap techniques

Modern fashionistas love jewelry made from copper wire. Firstly, in almost all cases these are handmade products, and secondly, it is unlikely that the second, exactly the same jewelry can be seen on friends and acquaintances.

Handmade products are always unique and can be made to order. The master will make what you need, possibly according to the sketch you suggested.  

Or you can become a wire wrap master yourself, make your own jewelry and earn money from this craft. You should start learning by twisting ordinary copper wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm, this will allow you to understand how difficult it is to work in this area.

Considering that copper wire bends and curls easily, you can relatively quickly learn how to make curls and rings from it, which are what jewelry is made of.

Working with beads

First, try threading the wire into the bead and securing the ends: 

• take a roll of wire and bend a small piece. Pass it through the hole in the bead and leave 1 cm on each side.  
• Remove the wire from the bead and cut it from the skein with wire cutters, then thread it back into the bead. 
• Using round pliers, wrap one end of the wire into a small ring; do this, gradually bending the metal. Make the same end on the other side.

Simple spiral

Having dealt with the beads, learn to twist the wire into a spiral. There are two types of spirals: closed, in which there is no gap between the elements, and open, in which the curls are separated by a certain distance.

To make a closed-type spiral, you first need to form a ring from the tip of the wire, squeeze it with pliers and carefully roll it around the ring. 1 cm of metal is left for the loop, which is formed by twisting it with pliers.

We twist the loop in the opposite direction from the spiral.

Connecting rings and chains of them

Certain types of parts are fastened using connecting rings. To make them, the wire is rolled into curls of equal diameter using pliers, which can be cut off as needed.  

After unwinding a piece of wire, twist the end into a loop with round pliers. Move the tool to the other end, wind the wire in the opposite direction onto a section of the pliers that is wider than the previous one to obtain a hook. Remove the wire from the tool and cut off each spring curl with side cutters. You will get connecting rings.  

Use pliers to open the ring at the joints, doing this carefully, being careful not to break the round shape. The open ring is threaded through the desired element and secured with pliers. Fasten tightly so that the links in the chain of connecting rings do not fall apart when pulled.  

Usually the rings do not come out uniform and even. To get even and identical rings, you need to use a template for winding, made from a nail of the required diameter or a knitting needle. After winding a spiral around it several times, you can cut it into rings and use it to make chains or fasten parts.

Wire weaves can be made using a vice and a drill, but you can also use other handy objects, such as a door handle or a round wooden spoon. It is enough to fasten the required amount of wire on both sides and rotate it so that the interweaving of metal threads begins.

Making earrings

Making your own earrings from materials identical to the product will help you avoid searching for the necessary fragments to create jewelry. To do this, you need pliers, wrap a wire around the wide end of which and form a loop at a distance of 2.5 cm from the end.

Wrap a piece of the remaining wire at the base under the loop. Cutting the metal rod from the skein at a distance of 1 cm, form a link for the connection. Take a hammer and tap the hinges to strengthen their structure. Attach the hook with connecting rings or directly.  

The fastener can be shaped like the letter S. To do this, form a loop with a small diameter at the end of the wire, secure the wide end of the pliers below it, and bend the metal in the other direction from the loop. Cut the wire from the skein and form the same loop at the other end. Place the wide edge of the pliers under the new loop and also bend it in the opposite direction to create an S shape.

This clasp can also be decorated with a bead. To do this, after the first bend and cutting of the wire, it should be threaded through the bead. Then form a new loop and curl, as in the first case. For fixation, a piece of thinner wire is additionally wrapped around the bead.  

Wire reinforcement

Strengthening is an important stage in creating jewelry. The thing should not only be beautiful, but also functional and of good quality. It will serve its owner for more than one day. There are different ways to strengthen the wire to increase the service life of the product.  

To do this, you can use a jewelry hammer and a perfectly smooth anvil. If you are just learning how to work with wire, use the following method.

Take a piece of wire and make a wave out of it. Place it on the anvil and tap it with a hammer, holding it strictly perpendicular. If the angle is more or less than 90 degrees, nicks and dents will appear on the wire, which should not be allowed. Under the influence of a hammer, the wire can be slightly flattened and stretched, which means it will be sufficiently strengthened.  

However, this method is not suitable for rings and links. Using pliers and platypuses on the ends will help to strengthen such parts. Each type of tool is attached to the edges of the wire; under the influence of force, the ends are directed at each other several times. The moment they begin to bounce, we will tell you that the wire is elastic and sufficiently strengthened.

The finished product can be sanded, patinated, treated with machine oil, goya paste and cleaned with a toothbrush and powder. 

Products using the technique of twisting wire have been made since time immemorial; many museum collections contain women's and men's jewelry, fragments of horse harness, dishes, and interior items with curls and spirals twisted from wire. Art requires perseverance and steadiness of hands, although these qualities can be learned if you have a desire to create and make beautiful handicrafts.  

Where to get copper wire, what kind of wire is suitable

How to make a pendant from wire - a lesson for beginners

Types of wire braids

(2 5,00 out of 5)

Source: https://three-needles.ru/rukodelie/pletenie/wire-wrap/wire-wrap-osnovnye-priemy/

How to work with wire / TB / Wire stands

Hello brainiacs! I have been with you for a long time and your works are simply mesmerizing.

So, inspired by the work, I began to use my brain. A small medical scale caught my eye.

Materials and tools for work:

1. Scales
2. Copper wire (several twisted into one “rope” in the photo)
3. Copper tubes of various diameters (refrigerators have them)
4. Copper-phosphorus solder
5. Gas-burner

After making it, pickled it in a solution of vinegar essence (be as careful as possible when working), the solution should be hot. You can also etch in a solution of citric acid and apply the patina using a 3% solution of ammonia (place the product in a suitable vessel, apply the alcohol to cotton wool, cover everything with a lid, otherwise the head will be bo-bo).

Unfortunately, I didn’t take photos of the stages. I think if something needs clarification, ask.

UPDATE

Continuation-addition of previously exhibited work.

Tool used during work:

Take the wire from the cable:

Clamp it in a vise:

Next we expose the veins:

With the help of a suitable mandrel, the workpiece should be like a string. Removing the insulation:

Next we put the two ends together:

We clamp the free ends in a vice, and insert a screwdriver into the loop (or we clamp it into the socket of a drill/screwdriver):

Pulling the workpiece towards you, rotate it clockwise or counterclockwise (as is convenient for you). Rotate to the desired density, and this is what we get:

I would like to note the following: if the wire is heated on gas or coals and the hot wire is thrown into water (a basin or bucket), the wire will become soft and pliable.

The most important thing in the article is safety precautions:

1.  The tool must be in good condition and free from cracks;
2.  Knives must be sharpened, or on quick-change knives, the worn section of the blade must be removed;
3.  It is necessary to work in safety glasses;
4.  The workplace should be well lit;
5.  When annealing wire, work in protective gloves and have the appropriate tools.

ATTENTION ! Young brains should carry out all work under the supervision of senior brains or adults.

Finally, there is one more work not yet completed. When it’s ready, I’ll show you everything and tell you.

Category: Ideas for HOME, From garbage, From wire

Source: http://mozgochiny.ru/podelki-iz-musora/krasivaya-stoyka-dlya-vesov-svoimi-rukami/

How to make a spring at home with your own hands

Most often, the question of how to make a spring yourself, using improvised means, does not arise. However, there are situations when a spring of the required diameter is not at hand. It is in such cases that the need arises to make this element with your own hands.

Making a small spring is quite possible

Of course, springs for critical mechanisms operating under intensive conditions are best manufactured in production conditions, where it is possible not only to select correctly, but also to comply with all the parameters of the technological process. If you need a non-standard spring for use in a mechanism that will be operated in a gentle mode, then you can make it at home.

What you need

To make your own spring, prepare the following supplies and equipment:

• steel wire, the diameter of which should correspond to the cross-sectional size of the turns of your future spring product;
• a regular gas burner;
• a tool that every locksmith workshop must have;
• bench vice;
• a stove, which can also be used as a heating device for household purposes.

It is easier to wind a spiral using devices, the design of which depends on the size and stiffness of the spring

The wire, if its diameter does not exceed 2 mm, does not need to be subjected to preliminary heat treatment, since it is easy to bend without it. Before winding such wire onto a mandrel of the required diameter, it must be unbent and carefully aligned along the entire length of the winding.

When choosing the diameter of the mandrel, you should take into account the size of the spring that you are going to make at home. To compensate for the elastic deformation of the wire, the diameter of the mandrel is chosen slightly smaller than the required size of the internal cross-section of the future product.

Coil spring winding device

If the diameter of the wire from which you are going to make a spring with your own hands is more than 2 mm, it must first be annealed, since without such a procedure it will be difficult to align it and wind it onto the mandrel.

Step-by-step instruction

Step 1

The first thing you need to do if you are going to make a spring with your own hands is to select the material for such a product. The optimal material in this case is another spring (the main thing is that the diameter of the wire from which it is made matches the cross-section of the coils of the spring that you need to make).

By selecting material from an old spring, you will be sure that the wire is made of hardened high carbon steel

Step 2

Annealing the wire for the spring, as mentioned above, will allow you to make it more flexible, and you can easily align it and wind it on the mandrel. To perform this procedure, it is best to use a special stove, but if you do not have one at your disposal, then you can use any other device that heats wood.

In such a stove you need to light birch wood and, when it burns down to coals, put a spring in it, the wire from which you are going to use. After the spring is red-hot, the coals must be moved to the side and the heated product allowed to cool along with the stove. After cooling, the wire will become much more flexible, and you can easily work with it at home.

Step 3

The wire that has become soft should be carefully aligned and begin to be wound onto a mandrel of the required diameter. When performing this procedure, it is important to ensure that the turns are located close to each other. If you have never winded springs before, you can first watch a training video, which is easy to find on the Internet.

You can use a screwdriver to wind a small spring.

Step 4

In order for your new spring to have the required elasticity, it must be hardened. Heat treatment such as hardening will make the material harder and more durable. To perform hardening, the finished spring must be heated to a temperature of 830–870°, for which you can use a gas burner.

You can determine that the required hardening temperature has been reached by the color of the hot spring: it should turn light red. To accurately determine this color, also rely on the video.

After heating to the required temperature, the spring must be cooled in transformer or spindle oil.

Step 5

After hardening, the spring should be kept in a compressed state for 20–40 hours, and then its ends should be processed on a sharpening machine to make a product of the required size.

After completing all the above procedures, you can begin to use the spring you made with your own hands for its intended purpose.

Source: http://met-all.org/obrabotka/prochie/kak-sdelat-pruzhinu-provoloki-domashnih-usloviyah.html

Twist welding machine

When replacing wiring, it is better to weld or solder all twists of copper wires; I have even seen such welding on aluminum wires in the wiring of a house built in 1960. Even then, builders knew about welding wires. Read on to learn how to make a machine for welding copper strands with your own hands.

Wago terminals

Many will probably say: What are Wago-type terminals for? It's the 21st century!

I answer right away: I installed these “super terminals” when replacing the wiring in the apartment, and when I turned on the electric kettle, such a terminal melted, I didn’t like it very much, I even disassembled one such terminal and saw that the contact there was very thin.

Therefore, sometimes the good old twist will be more reliable than all this modern “good”!

At one time, of course, there were good dead-end terminals - you insert a twist into it and tighten it with a screw - it turns out to be insulated and firmly fixed - an awesome thing, but now they have completely disappeared from sale. It's a shame  

Source: https://evmaster.net/svarka-mednyx-skrutok

How to make a spring from wire

Springs are elastic structural elements that serve to accumulate or dissipate mechanical energy. They surround us on all sides - under the keys of the computer keyboard, in the car suspension and in the lifting mechanism of the sofa. The most common are coil compression springs. There are several ways to make them.

How to make a spring

Coil compression springs

Elastic elements can have different spatial forms. Historically, the first springs mastered by man were leaf springs. You can still see them today - these are springs on heavy-duty trucks. With the development of technology, people have learned to make more compact coil springs that work in compression. In addition to them, spatial elastic elements are also used.

Coil springs

Design Features

During operation, such springs take a load along their axis. In the initial position, there are gaps between their turns. The applied external force deforms the spring, its length decreases until the coils touch. From this moment on, the spring is an absolutely rigid body. As the external force decreases, the shape of the product begins to return to its original shape until it is completely restored when the load disappears.

The main characteristics describing the geometry of the part are:

• The diameter of the rod from which the spring is wound.
• Number of turns.
• Winding step.
• External diameter of the part.

The external shape may differ from cylindrical and represent one of the figures of rotation: cone, barrel (ellipsoid) and others

The winding pitch can be constant or variable. The winding direction is clockwise and counterclockwise.

Spring device

The cross-section of the turns can be round, flat, square, etc.

The ends of the turns are ground down to a flat shape.

Operating area

Cylindrical coil springs of constant outer diameter and constant pitch are used more widely than others. They are used in areas such as

• Mechanical engineering.
• Instrumentation.
• Vehicles.
• Mining industry.
• Appliances .

and in other industries.

Use of springs in everyday life

The following properties are required for the work to function effectively:

• high strength;
• plastic;
• elasticity;
• wear resistance.

To ensure the design values ​​of these parameters, it is necessary to correctly select the material, accurately calculate the dimensions, develop and follow the manufacturing technology.

State standards determine the requirements for the manufacture of springs. According to permissible deviations, they belong to one of the accuracy groups:

• less than 5%;
• less than 10%;
• less than 20%.

Schematic representation of a spring

Strict requirements are imposed on the accuracy of geometry and surface cleanliness.

Products with scratches and other external defects that reduce the resource of the product and its service life do not meet the standard

Material requirements

The strength parameters and fault tolerance of a product are largely determined by the material from which it was decided to be made. Metallurgists distinguish special spring steels in the classification of steels.

They have a specific crystal structure, determined both by the chemical composition and the heat treatment of the products.

Highly alloyed alloys of increased purity and high metallurgical quality provide high elasticity and ductility, and are able to retain their physical and mechanical properties after repeated deformations.

Steel 60S2A

Spring alloys 60S2A, 50HFA and stainless steel 12Х18Н10Т have gained popularity among mechanism designers.

Features of the technology

The technological process for manufacturing elastic elements depends on the technical requirements for the design. Making a spring is not as easy as an ordinary part, which should not have special elastic properties. This requires special equipment and equipment.

Winding of springs with a round coil section is carried out using the following methods:

• Cold. Suitable for small and medium sizes (wire diameter up to 8 mm).
• Hot. For large diameters.

Spring coiling technology

After winding, the elastic elements are subjected to various types of heat treatment. During this process, the product acquires the specified properties.

Cold coiling technology without hardening

First you need to do preparatory operations. Before a workpiece is wound from wire, it is subjected to a patenting procedure. It consists in heating the material to the plasticity temperature. This operation prepares the wire for the upcoming change in shape.

During the winding operation the following parameters must be maintained:

• External diameter of the product (for some parts the internal diameter is standardized).
• Number of turns.
• Winding pitch.
• The total length of the part, taking into account subsequent operations.
• Compliance with the geometry of the end turns.

Cold coiling without tempering

Next, the end turns are ground down to a flat state. This must be done to ensure high-quality support for other structural parts, to prevent their destruction and the spring from slipping out.

The next stage of the technological process is heat treatment. Cold coiling of springs involves only tempering at low temperatures. It allows you to increase elasticity and relieve mechanical stresses that arise during winding.

It is extremely important to strictly adhere to the design heat treatment schedule, carefully controlling temperature and holding time.

After heat treatment, it is necessary to carry out test and control operations.

Further, if necessary, protective coatings can be applied to prevent corrosion. If they were applied by galvanic method, the products are reheated to reduce the hydrogen content in the surface layer.

The first stages of the technology coincide with the previous process. Changes begin at the heat treatment stage. It is carried out in several stages:

• Hardening. The workpiece is heated to a given temperature and held for 2 to 3 hours. Next, it is subjected to rapid cooling by immersing it in a container with mineral oil or saline solution. During the hardening stage, the workpieces must be in a horizontal position. This will avoid deformation
• Vacation. The workpiece is heated to 200-300° and kept for several hours to relieve internal stresses and improve elastic properties.

Further measuring and control operations are also carried out. The workpieces that have passed the inspection are sent for sandblasting to remove scale. If necessary, shot blasting should also be done to increase the strength of the surface layer of the metal.

The process is completed by applying a protective coating.

Hot coiling technology with quenching and tempering

Before winding, the workpiece is heated to plasticity temperature using one of the following methods

• muffle furnace;
• gas-burner;
• high frequency heating.

Next, the workpiece is supplied to the coiling equipment. The geometry is adjusted and flat ends are formed.

Heat treatment includes hardening and low-temperature tempering.

Heat treatment schedules are constructed based on the properties of the material and the dimensions of the workpiece.

Operating mode of the quenching and tempering furnace line

Next comes the control and measuring stage. Manufacturing is completed by applying anti-corrosion protection.

Equipment and fixtures used

To make an elastic element, specialized equipment is required. These are winding machines. You can make a part on a regular lathe, but it will require additional equipment with special equipment. Medium and large series are produced on semi-automatic machines that operate with minimal operator intervention. You can also make a spring from wire by hand. This will also require special equipment.

At the next stage of machining, the ends are ground on face grinding machines. For single production or small series, this can be done with a grinding wheel.

Heat treatment is carried out using mandrels that prevent product deformation in specialized furnaces for hardening and tempering. Both operations can be done in a universal oven.

Equipment and fixtures used

For quality control, load installations and measuring systems are used. In case of single production, measurements can be made with a universal tool.

Source: https://stankiexpert.ru/tehnologii/kak-sdelat-pruzhinu.html

DIY 6 mm wire patterns - Metals, equipment, instructions

Wire bending is one of the ways to give it a new shape using manual or mechanical action using special equipment.

The bending itself occurs due to the compression of the inner layer, due to which the outer layer can be stretched and bent. Such technological work is in great demand, as is equipment for manual bending.

You can create products from bent wire with your own hands.

In this case, it is advisable to choose softer plastic materials for the process so that the wire can bend easily and doing the work with your own hands does not create difficulties.

If the wire is rigid and has a large diameter, then to process it manually you need to use certain tools:

• using pliers you can create a small bend of a few mm; they are also convenient for fixing material for subsequent processing;
• You can cut the wire into separate parts with wire cutters or needle-nose pliers;
• pliers (a type of pliers) are considered one of the most convenient and versatile tools for bending wire with your own hands.

Before you start manually bending the material for the rings, it is better to create a certain template on paper and periodically check it as you work. Simple shapes can be made without templates.

For example, to create a regular rectangular clamp, it is enough to first clamp part of the wire with a bench vice, and bend the remaining piece at a right angle using pliers or a hammer.

Rules for manual bending

When performing manual wire bending work with your own hands, you should adhere to certain safety rules that can protect your hands from possible injuries:

• Before starting work, it is advisable to put on gloves made of thick, dense fabric;
• Materials should be well secured so that they do not jump out of the vice during bending;
• All machines and tools for manual work must be in good working order;
• Do not place heavy objects on the edge of the table (for example, if you hit the pliers, you can drop them on your leg and get a noticeable bruise, or even injury to your fingers);
• When working with the wire with one hand, try to keep the other away from the bend (the pliers can break off and injure your hand).

Safety rules will protect your hands, but the DIY bending process itself is still quite complex and time-consuming. You can bend products by hand only if you have certain experience and knowledge.

Special equipment helps bend wire in large volumes. Let's study it in more detail.

Processing methods

If we talk about bending wire on a large scale (in production or a specialized plant), then various methods are used to plastically deform it.

One of the most common and economical is the bay processing method.

In this case, wire rings are wound onto coils, and then they are fed to two-plane roller machines that straighten the wire.

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Afterwards, the material is processed on bending equipment (the required shape is created), at the end the wire is cut, and the entire work cycle is repeated again.

Moreover, all work is fully automated, which allows you to save time and money and use the device to create a simple curved structure with a development length of about 1000 mm.

For rolling wire with your own hands, there are special devices that consist of fixed templates of certain radii of curvature (the radius can be one or several).

The material is rolled around the created template using pressure rollers.

Basically, this technology is used to create bent products that have a small bending radius (about the same as the diameter of the wire).

The method of pushing the wire is reminiscent of the way 3-roll equipment works on a profile bending and spring-coiling machine.

The material is pushed into the device using a special wire, then it is pressed against various rollers, which makes it possible to change the bending parameters and make transitions to different radii.

This device allows you to bend various structures that have a complex configuration and large bending radii on the development - from 1000 mm or more.

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You can straighten the wire using straightening equipment or a special device. This equipment includes units consisting of rotating leveling frames or two-plane leveling blocks.

In this case, rotating frames are preferable, as they allow the material to be aligned more smoothly.

Professional equipment

If only the simplest devices (vises, pliers) are used to bend wire on their own, then for mass industrial processing of the material professional machines are used (for example, for the production of key rings or springs for handles).

A wire bending machine with one bending console is one of the simplest and makes it possible to create bent products of simple shapes. The length of the sweep in this case should not exceed 1000 mm.

Double-cantilever machines can work with a reaming length of more than 1000 mm.

The material is cut into the required pieces, then it is deformed from both ends simultaneously.

Such equipment allows you to create products with a large number of bends. Machines with only one console can no longer perform this work.

Also, on double-console machines you can make figures with closed bends.

Wire bending on so-called 3D machines is becoming more and more popular these days.

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Three-dimensional spatial bending can be done using a rotary bending console, which is controlled by an automated system.

Unfortunately, such material processing is quite expensive, so parts are mainly created using simple flat bending, and then, if necessary, individual parts are automatically welded.

Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/uzory-iz-provoloki-6-mm-svoimi-rukami/

How to make a hook for tying reinforcement with your own hands?

The connection of metal reinforcing bars into a frame for concrete structures in private housing construction occurs using the knitting method. To assemble the reinforcing frame, a special device in the form of a small hook is used. Let's look further at how to make a hook for tying reinforcement with your own hands and how to work with it correctly.

Types of tools for knitting reinforcement

The knitting method involves using steel wire to manually fix rods perpendicular to each other in places where they intersect crosswise.

A crochet hook is a simple and safe tool that allows you to tie reinforcement bars quickly, securely and evenly.

Today, there are three types of ready-made hooks for knitting reinforcement bars, which can be purchased in the store. In addition, you can make a hook for the reinforcement yourself.

Manual

Photo of a purchased hook. The handle rotates freely.

A simple hook is a rod attached to a handle with bends that grip the wire. The hook for tying the reinforcement is rotated manually. The advantage of hand tools is their availability, durability and ease of use.

A hand crochet hook is an excellent option for novice builders, which will allow you to understand the knitting algorithm and feel the optimal degree of wire tension to obtain high-quality knots.

Screw

The knitting wire is selected with a diameter from 0.8 to 2 mm.

A semi-automatic hook is a reversible tool that operates by forward movements of the handle. The device has a rod with a hook in the form of a drill, which fits into the funnel of the handle along the thread, tightening the wire.

The cost of such a tool is higher than a manual one. But the screw tool makes it possible to cope with a wide range of work in a short time - in order to completely tighten the knot, it is enough to make only a couple of movements.

Mechanical

Builders who value every second choose an automatic hook (gun) for tying reinforcement. The operating principle of the gun is based on fully automatic rotation of the hook. This device is the most modern and advanced, allowing you to achieve maximum results and speed without large labor costs on the part of the builder.

Operating principle.

Buying such a hook for household purposes will not be justified: working with a gun requires a fairly large consumption of wire, and the cost of the device is high. But on large projects or when performing work that needs to be completed in an extremely short time, this option is ideal!

Homemade

Source: https://FundamentClub.ru/montazh/kryuchok-dlya-vyazki-armatury.html

Children's crafts made from soft wire

Wire is a universal material for crafts. Its advantage lies in its flexibility. For children's crafts, it is better to purchase chenille (fluffy, soft) wire. In this article we will look at: how to make children's crafts from wire with your own hands.

Fluffy wire daisy

You will need: green, yellow and white chenille wire, a foam ball, scissors, glue.

Master Class

1. Cut the white wire into 8 equal lengths.
2. Form petals and insert them into a foam ball.
3. Take a piece of yellow wire and bend the edge.
4. Roll a piece of yellow wire into a spiral, leaving the tip.
5. Apply glue to the tip of the yellow wire and insert it into the foam ball.
6. Connect 2 pieces of green wire to form a stem, then leave the tip for future attachment.
7. Take another piece of green wire and twist it around the other piece.
8. Lubricate the tip of the piece with glue and secure it to the back of the flower.
9. Form a leaf.

The fluffy wire daisy is ready! I recommend watching this video!

Soft wire crowns

You will need: shiny soft wire, headband, scissors, glue.

Cheerful bunny

You will need: chenille wire, a pompom for the nose, button eyes, glue, scissors, pencil.

Chenille wire spider

You will need: chenille wire, 2 large beads, scissors.

Fluffy wire owl

You will need: brown, beige and orange chenille wire, button eyes, scissors, glue.

Squirrel made from nuts and wire

You will need: 2 large nuts, chenille wire, glue, felt-tip pen.

Ladybug

You will need: black and red chenille wire, scissors, glue.

Funny octopus

You will need: chenille wire of two colors, 2 rubber bands, a foam ball, a pencil, scissors, button eyes, glue.

How to knit reinforcement with your own hands: devices and methods

Tying reinforcement for the foundation is an important stage in the construction of a building. How long the structure will stand depends on the quality and strength of the frame. Therefore, you need to pay maximum attention to this process, as well as purchase high-quality components.

Mating is a lengthy task, although not very difficult. Especially a lot of time will be spent on the reinforcing belt of the slab foundation. There, the number of intersection points is in the hundreds or even thousands. And each such intersection requires fixation, which means it needs to be knitted. And often twice.

There will be more work with a slab foundation

Things will go faster when installing a strip or pile foundation. In this case, when building a bathhouse, you can get by with several hundred tying points, although it all depends on the size of the building and its layout.

You can, of course, hire a crew, but they will ask for a considerable amount. Knitting the foundation yourself will save you a lot of money.

Now about where to knit. There are two options - immediately on site on the foundation. In the case of a slab foundation, this is probably the only possible way: the volumes are too large. For a strip or pile frame, you can tie a frame on a site, table, special stand, etc., and then install it in a trench or pile.

Wire for knitting

To connect rods in low-rise construction, annealed low-carbon steel wire is used. It is also called “knitting” wire. Its quality and parameters are regulated: all characteristics must comply with GOST 3282-74.

For low-rise construction, wire with a diameter of 1.0 -1.4 mm is needed. Experts believe that the best option is 1.2 mm or 1.4 mm. The millimeter one is too weak and often breaks; the larger diameter one is difficult to rotate.

Regular annealed wire is dark in color. There is also a light one - it is galvanized. The protective coating greatly increases corrosion resistance without affecting flexibility and elasticity. It costs more, but the reliability of the binding, together with the quality of the reinforcement and concrete, determines the reliability of the entire foundation. So this is a case where you need to take the best.

Wire for tying reinforcement can be sold in coils or already cut

Unannealed wire is produced. It costs less, but its ductility and strength are lower, and it breaks more often. So it’s better to take one that has undergone heat treatment.

One connection requires from 25 to 50 cm of wire. Having cut a piece of a given length, it is folded in half and used in this form. The larger the diameter of the rod, the longer the piece of wire needed for knitting. For reinforcement 10 mm is 25 cm, for 12 mm 30 cm is enough, for 14 mm 35-40 mm is required.

Longer sections are needed in those places where three rods have to be connected. And there are many such places. Here you will need 50 cm sections.

They sell wire in coils, or already cut into pieces of a certain length. Sliced ​​packages can be of different weights - from 0.5 kg to 10 kg and more.

Devices for tying reinforcement

How easy and fast the knitting will be depends on the tool you use. You can twist the reinforcement by hand, but it is difficult and time-consuming. There are various devices for this. Simple and more complex.

Hooks

The most widely used are various hooks. There are quite a few of them in stores; they are made independently from any piece of wire of a suitable diameter.

Hooks for tying reinforcement have different lengths, handles and shapes

There are simple ones, with straight or curved steel handles. They differ in the angle of bend of the handle, the shape of the hook, and its size. How to decide which is more convenient? Just try to work. No other way.

There are mechanical hooks - they have a spiral built into the handle. There is no need to rotate them when knitting. Just pull up. The handle slides along the screw groove, turning the hook. Watch the video to see how it works.

Ticks

There is a special tool in which pliers and a mechanical hook are connected. Thicker single wire can be used for knitting with them. It is placed under the intersection of the reinforcement bars and inserted into the pliers. They are clamped in the clamp, the excess wire is bitten off. The next step is to pull the handle a few times. The pliers begin to rotate, tightening the knot. Such a device costs $40-60. How much you need it - decide for yourself.

Mechanical handle pliers

There are other ticks. Also special for knitting, but they are rotated by hand. You don’t need a lot of turns here - the pliers allow you to grab the wire close to the reinforcement and only make one or two turns.

They differ from ordinary ones in the shape of the cutting part - they must hold the wire. Professional knitters on construction sites work using just such a tool. They say that with pliers, tying goes twice as fast as with a hook and a gun. There are two more advantages:

• No need to cut the wire. It is wound into small skeins, which are held in the left hand.
• There is no overspending: “tails” of a few millimeters remain. This is important for large volumes. Special pliers are used when knitting the reinforcing belt. They have a different shape of sponges: they hold the wire

Believe it or not - it's up to you. But it looks amazing.

Gun

Devices for automating knitting are available for sale. These are the so-called knitting guns. They are “charged” by wire and run on batteries. All human involvement consists of bringing the gun to the joint and pressing the trigger guard. A second or two, and the gun will wind several turns around the intersection of the bars and make a knot.

Buying such a gun to tie one foundation is an unjustified waste of money. They are rarely purchased even by those who do this professionally. Their cost is considerable: no less than $500.

How to knit reinforcement for a foundation

Procedure for crocheting reinforcement

Since a hook is most often used when tying reinforcement, we will tell you how to use it. Cut pieces of knitting wire of the required length are folded in half and slightly bent (about a third of the length is bent). Push the bent side under the joint (diagonally).

A hook is inserted into the resulting loop; the free ends, which are on the other side, are also placed on the hook and bent. Now they begin to rotate, twisting the turns and tightening the connection (clockwise or counterclockwise - depend on the situation, do what is more convenient).

When the knot approaches the reinforcement, the hook is simply removed.

Here you need to decide how tightly to tighten the knot. You can’t overtighten—the wire will burst, and you can’t allow the reinforcement to dangle. It should fit snugly. The knot should not be on the side, but clearly above the intersection. Therefore, hold the hook above the cross.

There is a little trick that will allow you to pull the rods well together and secure them. Approximately before the last two or three turns, the hook must be pulled towards you with force, stretching the wire. And with tension make the last turns. Due to its elasticity, the wire stretches a little, the knot becomes tighter, and the reinforcement is well tightened.

Another note - the length of the twist should not be long. You can get 3-5 turns. This will be enough to make the connection strong.

There is another way to knit reinforcement. They differ only in the way they fix the free end on the hook: put the wire a little behind the hook and start twisting. The one described first seems to be the most convenient. In the sense that one hand remains free, it can be used to hold the reinforcement.

The knot should be exactly above the junction of the reinforcement bars

After you have removed the loop, bend all the ends under the connection - this way they will not interfere, and you will not get hurt or tear your clothes during further work.

Tying reinforcement with a screwdriver

There is no process that our people will not try to modernize in their own way. So knitting reinforcement is much faster using a conventional screwdriver. The hook is pre-made, fixed in the holder, and the lowest rotation speed is set.

The procedure is the same as when using a regular hook. Only after you have secured the free ends of the wire to the hook, turn on the screwdriver for a couple of moments. After tightening the loop, turn off the tool and remove it from the hook. With practice, you can do one knitting per second.

Knitting with plastic clamps

You can tie the reinforcement with mounting plastic clamps. They are also inserted under the connection diagonally, the end is threaded into the latch and tightened. Everything happens quickly.

But how durable the connection using plastic clamps will be is a question. Most likely, nothing will harm the plastic in the screed: it is chemically neutral. But, it has a decent elongation factor. That is, under prolonged static load it will stretch. The rods will begin to “walk”, which can lead to destruction of the screed. Combined with the fact that the clamps are more expensive (albeit not much), this option does not look so attractive.

How to make a hook for tying reinforcement with your own hands

You don't have to buy a hook. You can easily make it yourself, and you can choose all the sizes “to suit you”, make it as convenient for you.

Thick steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm or more is suitable. For example, an electrode can be used.

Bend a circle at one end of it. The handle will rest against it. Just make a circle. If you just bend it, it will be inconvenient: you will constantly cling to your sleeves. So try and bend it well so that the edge rests on the rod.

Bend the rod itself approximately in the middle at an angle of 30 degrees. You should get something similar to a rocker arm. String two or three washers onto the rod, pull them to the ring - they will fix the handle.

Options for homemade hooks for frames

You make the handle itself. There are several options:

1. Two tubes are needed. One is slightly larger in diameter than your rod (4 mm requires an internal diameter of 5-6 mm). The second one is even bigger. Their length is a third of the entire hook or a little more. You insert one into the other and rivet their ends with a hammer.
2. Weld washers on both sides of the tube, the inner diameter of which is slightly larger than the diameter of the rod.
3. Turn a handle from wood on a lathe. But you need to take dense wood - pine or spruce will not work - they will wear out quickly.
4. Use a piece of polymer pipe. The stopper at the bottom is a welded washer or nut.
5. Your option.

Place the finished handle on the rod and weld a lock washer to prevent the handle from rolling down.

Now we make the hook itself. Use a grinder to sharpen the end of the rod into a cone. There is no need to make it sharp, just slightly rounded. Then use pliers to bend it into a crochet hook. That's it, your instrument is ready. You can start working.

You will need to experiment with the angle and length of the hook itself - choose the one that is convenient for you. Some people find it convenient to use a short, steeply curved hook, while others find it better to work with one bent at a slight angle, but of great length. In general, try it. The main condition is that he should not break the wire. Then the connection will be reliable.

Results

There are many ways to tie reinforcement to a foundation with your own hands. The matter is long, but not the most difficult. Choose the method that is more convenient for you, as there will be a lot of work.

Source: https://baniwood.ru/kak-vyazat-armaturu-svoimi-rukami.html

DIY wire ring: MK for beginner craftsmen

Making wire jewelry is quite a difficult and complex task. To make them, sometimes you need to spend more than one meter of wire and many hours of free time. But their beauty and uniqueness fully compensate for all the labor costs incurred by masters of handmade accessories.

Although beginners in this business should not be afraid in advance. In fact, there are several very simple and easy ways to make an original decoration in just a couple of hours. For example, it could be a DIY wire ring, which you can create even without much experience.

Method I (very simple). Simple wire ring

To make it you will need the following materials :

• 7-13 cm of soft or semi-hard wire No. 16, 18 or 20 (it all depends on what kind of ring you want to make)
• nippers or side cutters
• round pliers
• a round tube or any other similar base on which a ring of the desired diameter can be formed

Progress:

1. Cut the wire to the required length (it depends entirely on what diameter ring you need and what pattern you will make from the wire):
2. At each end of the wire, use pliers to bend loops of the same size:

In this case, they should be bent in different directions:

1. Then wrap it tightly around the round base. The wire loops you made will overlap each other noticeably, so the finished ring can be slightly adjusted to a larger or smaller size if needed.

And it's all! Your first wire ring is ready!

Using the same principle, you can make rings of various types and styles:

But, if you want to learn how to do something more complex, we suggest you familiarize yourself with another method.

Method II (more complex). Curled wire ring

To make a ring that is more voluminous and complex in structure, you will need the following materials :

• from 17 to 26 cm of wire (in this lesson the master used red and brass wire)
• ruler
• wire cutters
• round pliers
• pliers
• needle nose pliers
• PVC pipe or any other round object whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the future ring
• nylon mallet or leather-headed mallet

Progress:

1. Using pliers, shape your wire into a U-shape by wrapping it around the very ends of the tool:

Moreover, it is not at all necessary that it bends exactly in the middle. You can make one end a little longer than the other. As a result, the ring will turn out very beautiful.

1. Next, use pliers to make the U-shaped loop as flat as possible:
2. Wrap the doubled wire around the round base and use a hammer to shape it into a ring:

Start tapping from the middle of the wire (from the U-shaped bend) and move towards the ends (but don’t touch them yet!). You need to be especially careful in the place where the double layer of wire ends and the single layer begins (if you hit it hard, it can simply break off). You should end up with something like this:

1. Then remove your future ring from the base and shape the free ends into a spiral shape using pliers (and your own imagination):
2. After this, return the ring to the base and tap it again with a hammer, including the middle and now curled ends. This will give it a nice rounded shape that will look natural on your finger, and will also make the wire harder and stronger.

The ring is ready! Now you can safely wear it or give it to someone close and dear to you.

Source: https://dolio.ru/kolco-iz-provoloki-svoimi-rukami-mk-dlya-nachinayushhix-masterov/

DIY wire crafts: TOP-100 ideas for inspiration

Probably everyone has tried to make simple wire crafts with their own hands. Remember the improvised rings, bracelets, roses and funny little people that are so easy to twist from copper wire scraps or from thin wire taken from a champagne bottle.

And if you master a few basic elements and get inspired, you can make crafts from copper wire that will become real masterpieces!

DIY wire crafts: TOP-100 ideas for inspiration

Copper wire butterfly

First, you need to learn how to make curls from wire. It is convenient to use special tweezers for this purpose.

Making a curl with tweezers

Only on the basis of such curls can you make a wonderful version of a wire craft for children - an elegant butterfly with weightless openwork wings.

Fold the bottom of the wing

Twist the second wing using tweezers.

Twist the wing

Glue a large bead in the center.

Glue the bead

Wire dragonfly

If you stock up on a whole set of tools, you can make much more complex and incredibly interesting crafts. For example, a piece of strong wire can be turned into a dragonfly.

Wire dragonfly

And if you use beads or seed beads in your work, the dragonfly will gain real charm. Crafts made from beads and wire are very popular; they are convenient to use in interior design, creating jewelry and accessories. And making such crafts is not at all difficult - you just need to imagine how you want to see the end result of your work, and at the right moment, string beads of a suitable shape, color and size onto the wire.

Dragonfly made of wire and beads

You can use not only small beads, but also fairly large beads. It all depends on the type of product and its size.

Dragonfly with beads and seed beads

Souvenir “Heart” made of copper wire

You can combine wire with other materials. For example, a simple but very cute heart made of copper wire can be fixed on a wooden block.

Let's make a heart.

Folding a heart

Twist the wire at the base of the heart.

Twist the wire

We lay out the wire a second time. We fix the end of the wire at the bottom of the heart.

Double heart made of wire

We make a hole in a wooden cube, pour a little glue there and insert a wire with a heart there. The result will be a wonderful souvenir, which, by the way, can be conveniently used as a stand for notes, business cards and even photographs.

Wire souvenir with heart

DIY wire pendants

Instead of beads and beads, you can use buttons and glass pebbles from the hole in the middle. They easily turn into part of an original heart pendant

Heart pendant made of wire and beads

Or a cute souvenir bird.

Bird made of wire, beads and buttons

A pendant in the shape of a rain cloud will look original.

Copper wire pendant “Tuchka”

You can also turn it into a dream catcher.

Cloud of wire, beads and beads

You can make a very beautiful feather pendant from colored beads and copper wire.

Feather pendant

Or a round elegant medallion pendant.

Wire medallion pendant

And this luxurious mandala pendant can be hung on the window so that it delights with the shine of its beads and catches little sunbeams.

Wire pendant "Mandala"

Wire crafts for interior decoration

You can make such pendants part of the decor. For example, a cute octopus will feel very comfortable in your bathroom.

Wire octopus

And the bird will be a good decoration for the wall - on the terrace, kitchen, in the corridor. Wherever you want to liven up the interior a little.

Wall pendant “Bird”

You can make a Christmas decoration from wire - an angel in a laconic style.

Wire angel

Pendants on wooden planks look interesting. These can be cute figures of people.

Wire pendant "Men"

An incredibly delicate pendant can be made from dark thin wire for a chandelier.

Wire pendant for chandelier

Or flowers, mugs and hearts.

Wire pendant for home

You can also use pendants on a wooden plank as a mobile toy above your baby’s crib.

Mobile made of wire with fish

If you add a little fabric, the wire can easily be turned into a ballerina figurine.

Wire ballerina

And if you try, you can even hit an elephant!

Wire elephant

Using bottle caps, you can make chairs for toys from wire.

Wire chairs

Wire flowers

Flowers made from a combination of thick and thin wire look interesting.

Wire flowers

And even live cacti can be seen with wire silhouettes!

Wire cacti

Wire bracelet

Of course, you can use wire and beads to create elegant jewelry and accessories. In this case, you can do without beads if you take bright wire and give it the desired shape. It’s enough just to make a pendant or a beautiful bracelet out of it.

Wire bracelet

Heart made of wire and thread

Look at the video on how to make a heart from wire and thread:

Anything can be made from such a durable and plastic material as wire. The main thing is to take it in your hands and imagine what this small thin piece might look like!

Source: https://montessoriself.ru/podelki-iz-provoloki-svoimi-rukami-top-100-idey-dlya-vdohnoveniya/