Do-it-yourself chain-link weaving at home
Chainlink mesh weaving
A chain-link fence has a neat appearance, and its construction requires very few building materials. The main one, of course, is a chain-link mesh, which serves as a barrier against stray dogs and uninvited guests.
If you want to make a chain-link mesh with your own hands at home, then even a non-professional can do it. Weaving mesh netting is done on a homemade machine, which has a fairly simple design.
Chainlink mesh weaving
To start weaving a chain-link mesh at home, you will need to prepare something for this. First of all you will need:
- Metal rollers;
- A small piece of channel;
- Wire feeder, in other words a rotating drum;
- Rebar bending machine or other bending machine.
Initially, it is necessary to make a screw with a spiral-shaped slot through which the wire will pass, twisting in the desired direction. The size of the mesh cells of the chain-link mesh depends on the distance of the slots on the pipe.
From the edge of the pipe with slots, it is necessary to weld a sharp blade (knife) that will guide the wire into the grooves when twisting it. To make weaving the chain-link mesh as convenient and easy as possible with your own hands, the edges of the slots must be carefully processed with a file, removing burrs on them.
After making the auger, it is necessary to prepare two pieces of angle, exactly the same length as the auger itself for weaving the chain-link wire. The auger is installed between the corners, and the entire structure is firmly fixed on some stable base, such as the tabletop of a mechanic's workbench.
Machine for weaving mesh netting - general assembled view:
1. Pipe with spiral slots;2. Support;3. Metal corners;4. A wire mandrel knife welded to the auger;
5. The base on which the machine is fixed.
The process of weaving mesh netting
1. Wire feeding device;
2. A device for tensioning the wire during the mesh weaving process.
Do-it-yourself chain-link mesh at home
After the machine for making the chain-link mesh is completely ready and securely fixed on the support, you can start weaving the chain-link mesh with your own hands.
To do this, first the wire is put on the feeder and pulled through the tension device. Before doing this, be sure to lubricate the rotating elements of a homemade machine for weaving mesh with machine oil.
The process of weaving a chain-link mesh with your own hands at home is as follows:
- The end of the pulled wire is bent into a hook through the tension device.
- The wire is laid in spiral-shaped cutouts, and the hook itself is hooked to a knife welded on the auger.
- With a gentle movement, begin to rotate the device until the wire takes the required shape in the form of a wave.
Weaving a chain-link mesh is actually not a very difficult job; the most important thing is to understand the process and get used to it. Then the speed of making chain-link mesh at home will be much faster, and the task can be completed in the shortest possible time.
(4 4,25 out of 5)
Source: https://samastroyka.ru/pletenie-setki-rabica-svoimi-rukami.html
How to build and make a chain-link fence with your own hands
The Rabitz net (that’s right, with a capital letter, Rabitz is the name of the inventor), is a set of flat springs interlocked with each other. Oddly enough, this design turned out to be very effective for fences. As they say, don’t jump over, don’t go around.
It is difficult to break, and it is not easy to climb over, especially if there is a “barbed wire ornament” on top. But let's see for ourselves how to make a fence from the Chain-link mesh with your own hands to make sure of its qualities.
1. Where to use a chain-link fence.
2. What is needed to install (build) a chain-link fence.
3.
Installation of fencing (fence) from chain-link mesh.
4. In conclusion, about the chain-link fence.
Where to use a chain-link fence
A chain-link fence is convenient in those places where a special level of “security” and secrecy is not needed, but “transparency” of the fence is in demand. Most often, this type of fence can be found:
a) as a temporary fence;
b) a fence combined with a hedge (convenient for a summer cottage, a country house);
c) a dividing fence between two neighboring areas (advantage - it does not provide shade, and therefore does not interfere with the growth of garden crops and shrubs).
What you need to install a chain-link fence
The chain-link mesh itself does not have rigidity; it must be stretched and suspended, which requires the installation of reliable intermediate supports. Almost all materials traditionally used for fence posts are suitable for them:
— logs; — metal pipes; — asbestos-cement pipes; — rolled metal profiles;
- brick and stone columns.
To give the mesh rigidity, two options are used:
1. The mesh is “suspended” on a wire or cable stretched between the posts.
2. The mesh is stretched on a frame from a corner or other profile, and these “pictures” are fixed between the posts.
The first option is usually used for constructing temporary fencing, fencing of non-critical objects (recyclables warehouses, seasonal sales, etc.). The second option is a fairly reliable and aesthetically attractive design.
In the first case, all that is needed is: poles, wire (or thin cable) and soft knitting wire. Tools: wire cutters, chisel and hammer, large pliers.
Installing a fence made from “pictures” will require a significantly greater investment of both time and materials. In addition, you will need a welding machine and an angle grinder (angle grinder or in common parlance “grinder”).
Installation of fencing made from chain-link mesh
Let's look at how to build a chain-link fence with your own hands using the second method, and you can learn about other types of fences: a corrugated fence, a brick fence, a wooden fence from other materials on the site.
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As a frame for the fence elements, we will use a corner with a shelf width of 45-50 mm. The rigidity of such a profile is enough to make fence spans up to 3 m long and 2 meters high.
A little about height: Chainlink mesh is produced in rolls, the width of which is 1; 1.5 and 2 meters, therefore it is better to choose the height of the fence as a multiple of these values.
Usually the work is carried out by two people, and one of the workers must have skills in handling a welding machine. However, special strength and quality of seams are not required for such structures, and you can learn to “sparkle” in literally an hour.
First of all, we carry out the markings: outlining the fence line and the installation locations of the pillars. Then, while one worker digs holes for the posts, the second marks and cuts parts for the frames.
When carrying out work on the manufacture of frames, it is worth making the work easier by reducing the number of welds. To do this, where possible, we cut out a triangle of metal with a grinder and bend the corner, as shown in the figure.
To fill our “pictures” it is better to use galvanized mesh, but keep in mind that if you decide to paint it, you will have to purchase special paint; ordinary enamel will quickly peel off the zinc coating.
To attach the mesh, we weld small rods of wire with a diameter of 5-6 mm onto the corner (wired rod is suitable - smooth reinforcement grade AI). The rods are bent in advance. The mesh is tensioned by hooking onto these anchors, which are then bent. To make the tension more uniform, it is advisable to pass a rod of the same wire around the perimeter of the mesh. For such a design, the pitch of the anchors will no longer matter much (see figure).
The method of attaching the “pictures” to the pillars depends on the material of the pillars. It is more convenient to weld to metal. If the fence is installed in a place where welding is difficult, you can use the following method: we weld 1/2-inch pieces of pipe onto the pictures, and pre-attach (weld) anchors with threads at the end to the metal posts, so that the pipes fit on these anchors.
After the frame is put on, we clamp the fastening with a nut, and flatten the protruding part of the anchor so that the nut cannot be unscrewed. Such fastening requires precision and accuracy in installing the posts, therefore, first, the fence is assembled “dry”, securing the posts with stones and struts, and only then it is concreted (you can learn about preparing concrete yourself from separate materials on the website).
Such fences enclose gardens, vineyards, and shrubs. If you additionally plant thorny bushes along the fence, such protection becomes insurmountable without special means.
I recommend: How to make water radiator heating in a house
As already mentioned, you can make a chain-link fence with your own hands more reliable using additional means. In addition to barbed wire and thorny plantings, various types of alarms and video surveillance can serve as quite effective protection. Now such devices are relatively inexpensive, and their installation is accessible even to a non-specialist.
In conclusion about the chain-link fence
Despite the simplicity of the operations, working with welding and angle grinders (“grinder”) requires special care and attention. Be sure to use safety glasses and a welder's mask.
For beginners, we can recommend a mask with electronic glass darkening; working with it is much more convenient. For all seams, electrodes with a diameter of 3 mm are sufficient, that is, a powerful device is not needed, a small “inverter” is sufficient.
In other materials we talk about other types of fences and enclosures for country houses and cottages. In the meantime, we are waiting for your questions and comments.
Leave your tips and comments below. Subscribe to our newsletter. Good luck to you and good luck to your family!
Source: https://chonemuzhik.ru/kak-postroit-sdelat-zabor-iz-setki-rabica-svoimi-rukami.html
Chain-link fence: how to make it yourself, using various materials
The standards of our country control many things, in particular how boundaries between areas should be established. Since the boundary is often long, it is better that the fence does not cost too much. Therefore, the choice is not too wide: a chain-link fence or a wattle fence. Wattle is cheaper, but it won’t last long, so all that’s left is chain-link.
It is not difficult to build a chain-link fence with your own hands, since the structure as a whole is light, both in weight and in terms of its ability to withstand wind loads. However, the light weight requires careful installation of the pillars: in a hole, backfilled with sand or crushed stone, without cement. Such a fence will stand on any type of soil .
- Fence without guides . This is the most affordable option: supports are installed and a chain-link is pulled over them. The supports are mounted to a depth of about a meter. Such a fence is not afraid of flooding or severe frosts; it will withstand any weather conditions. On clay soils and loams, an identical principle is used, only gravel must be poured into the holes. Crushed stone will prevent water from collecting and will support the supports in frosty weather.
- Installation with slugs . To make a chain-link fence look solid and retain its shape, two horizontal slings are attached to the supports. They can be metal or wood. The tree will perfectly withstand soil movements, and a welded iron pipe will create a certain difficulty: the level of rigidity of such a fence is greater; if the supports are squeezed out, then in some places the pipes may come off. To prevent this from happening, you need to install the supports below the freezing level of the soil. Usually the hole for the supports is made twenty centimeters deeper than usual, crushed stone is placed at the bottom, then a post is placed and fixed.
- Sectional fence . A frame is first welded from the corner, onto which the mesh is subsequently stretched. The sections are attached to supports. The design is strong enough to withstand almost any soil. But on clay or loam it is necessary to install supports 30 cm below the freezing depth of the soil. Crushed stone in holes should not be filled with cement, since during frosts the supports may be squeezed out.
Types of mesh
This seemingly simple fence material may differ from each other. The difference can be significant both in cost and duration of operation. There are:
The most inexpensive and short-lived material. To maintain it in good condition will require significant financial costs. After installation, the chain-link must be painted to prevent it from corroding. The mesh is painted annually or at least once every two seasons.
The price is higher, but painting is not required, and the fence itself will last a long time.
- Plasticized chain-link.
Plastic is applied to the iron wire. This type of mesh appeared relatively recently. It is expensive, but has the most attractive appearance and will last for many years.
Made of material with special additives that increase its resistance to UV rays. This mesh can be installed at the boundary between neighbors, but not on the street. Its strength is low.
The grid can have cells of different sizes. Typically their size is 25−70 mm. For chain-link fencing on the border with neighbors, a mesh with a cell size of 40-60 mm is used.
Material selection
When buying a chain link, you need to carefully inspect the roll. Its edges should be without damage. The cells at the top and bottom should be folded. The length of the bent part should be more than half the length of the cell, then the mesh will be easier to install.
It is also necessary to look at the thickness of the wire, the evenness of the cells, and how smoothly they lie. There shouldn't be any damage.
If the mesh is plastic coated, then you need to ask about the warranty period. Cheap ones do not have the best plastic coating, which is destroyed by exposure to sunlight after just two years of use. A good coating should last at least 10 years.
Support options
There are several options for supports: wooden, iron, concrete or made of profile pipe.
Wooden supports are cheaper, but they are also the most short-lived. Antimicrobial treatment must be carried out before installation. To save money, the ground part is painted with a special protective impregnation. The area that will be immersed in the soil also needs to be treated: for this, the supports are placed in a container with impregnation for some time. Before installation, the underground section can be additionally wrapped with roofing felt.
Iron supports are made from round or square pipes. Wall thickness - 3 mm, diameter - 50 mm, cross-section - 50 mm, corner flange - 60 mm.
Concrete supports are the most inconvenient to install: they are very difficult to install and attach the mesh to them. The best support for installing a chain-link is a rectangular profile pipe. The best cross-section for a pillar will be 25X40 mm.
Correct installation
First you need to install supports in the corners of your site. You need to check their verticality and level the height. Two laces are pulled from above and 10 cm above the ground. Other supports are installed on them. The height is leveled along the upper edge of the cord.
The supports are mounted at a distance of 2-3 m from each other. If the mesh is mounted without guides, then the posts are placed at a distance of 2.5 m, then the chain-link will be easy to tension. If the fence is with wire, slings or sectional, then the distance between the supports should be three meters.
How to secure the mesh
Making a chain-link fence yourself is very simple. However, during installation, many people think about how to secure the mesh, how to tension it, etc. The mesh is attached to one of the supports, which are located in the corner. It must be secured in at least four places; this can be done using wire.
You can also weld three rods with a diameter of 6 mm to the support. A mesh is put on them and folded over .
- Tension method. Not everyone knows how to tension a chain link. If the fence design is simple, then you can stretch the mesh from one support to another. In this case, you need to attach it sequentially to each. To prevent the mesh from sagging, you need to insert a rod, grab it with your hands and pull the chain-link with all your weight. The stretch will be very large. You need two people to tighten the mesh: one tightens it, and the other fastens it.
- Wire installation. This type of fence can be installed quickly, but it may sag at the top. To prevent the top from deforming, a wire is passed through the top row. When using wire, the process of tensioning the mesh is simplified: you need to make a loop and throw it over the outer support. You need to stretch it tightly, after 2-3 supports they make another loop, wrapping it around the post. To prevent it from sagging, they use an iron rod, with which they twist and tension the chain-link.
- Installation with welded rod. An iron rod with a diameter of 8 mm is threaded into the first row. It needs to be cut into pieces equal to the distance between the supports. Then the rod is welded to them in several places.
- Installation with guides. To make the structure more rigid, guides are welded to it. These are horizontal pipes or strips of wood secured between posts. There may be several.
To install a chain-link fence, you can use any of the following techniques. The chain-link is attached both vertically and horizontally. You can stiffen a chain-link fence using slings, and secure it with wire or a rod.
Source: https://sotka.guru/stroitelstvo/zabory-i-izgorodi/izgotovlenie-svoimi-rukami-zabora-iz-setki-rabicy.html
Chain-link fence: three ways to make a mesh fence with your own hands
If you are sure that two-meter concrete or brick fences are the best fencing option, then know: this is not always the case. In some cases they are inappropriate. For example, in summer cottages, where people not only relax, but also plant a vegetable garden, a blank high fence will cause the formation of a huge shadow area.
This means that only shade-tolerant plants will be able to grow along the fence, and you can forget about a good harvest. And not only for you, but also for your neighbors! Therefore, in order not to create unnecessary conflicts, it may be worthwhile to worry about building a simple and translucent fence. The best choice is a chain-link fence (woven steel mesh).
In addition to transparency, it has other advantages: relative cheapness and ease of installation. And you can build a chain-link fence with your own hands in just one day, if you have the desire!
Design stage and preparation of materials
The simplest fence is a tension fence. It is a structure of supports onto which a mesh is pulled using homemade hooks. Additionally, it can be fixed at the top and bottom with a metal rod (thick wire), but this is not necessary.
The tension fence is performed quickly and without unnecessary movements. The main thing is that all work on installing the poles and tensioning the mesh is carried out efficiently. This type of fence has a high windage area, therefore there is a large wind load.
If there are mistakes in the work, the wind will quickly swing the supports and the mesh will sag.
Tension fence - the simplest option for fencing made from chain-link mesh
The mesh fence will be more durable if the supporting structure, consisting of pillars, is supplemented with longitudinal elements. These can be ordinary longitudinal veins (wooden slats or metal corners), which are fixed to the supports horizontally at the top and bottom of each span. In this case, the chain-link is no longer stretched over the supports, but over these veins.
Metal veins act as a reliable frame for the chain-link
Another option is a sectional fence, consisting of supports and welded frames with a mesh stretched inside.
A sectional chain-link fence is perfect for areas with elevation changes
Regardless of which of the above types of fences you like, the main element of any of them is a chain-link mesh. It can be woven from:
- black wire
- galvanized wire
- wire with plastic sheath
Black wire mesh is the cheapest, but not practical. It must be painted every 3-4 years, otherwise the fence will rust. Therefore, many refuse to purchase non-galvanized chain-link. However, if you are not afraid of the procedure of carefully painting hundreds of wire cells with a brush, then why not?
Galvanized mesh is considered more reliable in terms of operation. It does not need to be painted, it does not corrode. Therefore, its cost is somewhat more expensive than regular black mesh.
And the last, most modern option is a wire mesh, on the surface of which a thin layer of plastic is applied. It serves as good protection against corrosion and guarantees the durability of the material.
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When choosing a chain-link mesh for a fence, you should focus not only on the quality of the wire. The size of the cells is also very important, which can be in the range of 25-60 mm. The smaller the cells, the stronger and more expensive the mesh.
A large weave is more “airy”, but it can transmit not only light (which is good), but also small poultry, such as chickens. Therefore, if you breed such animals and they move freely around your site, be prepared that they will also run around your neighbors.
The optimal mesh size is considered to be 40-50 mm - this is enough for the mesh to serve as a good barrier for both people and animals. In addition to the mesh, for a tension fence you will need to purchase:
- metal pipes for supports (diameter 40-50 mm, height - 2-3 m);
- steel rod (diameter at least 0.8 mm);
- pieces of steel wire (6-7 cm each) or nails - for making fastening hooks.
A fence with sections or veins will require, among other things, the presence of:
- metal corners for frames or horizontal veins;
- steel plates - 2 pieces (top and bottom) for each post (used mainly for sectional fences; for a fence with veins, this structural detail is not necessary).
Option #1 - making a tension fence
Let's start with a description of how to make the simplest chain-link fence, in which the mesh fabric is stretched over posts.
Scheme of a tension fence made from a chain-link mesh
1. Marking the area
Place pegs in the corners of the fenced area and pull a tight cord over them. The length of the cord will indicate how many linear meters of mesh you will need to purchase for the fence. The cord will serve as a guide for determining the installation points of the pillars, which should be located strictly in a straight line with a step of 2-3 m. Also mark the found points with pegs.
2. Installation of pillars
The pillars are dug into the ground to a depth of 0.8-1.2 m, that is, 10-15 cm below its freezing level. Therefore, when you calculate the length of the pillars, be sure to take this “additional” figure into account.
At the locations of the orientation pegs, dig holes with a shovel (you can use a drill - it’s faster and more convenient). Most likely you will not be able to go deep to the required depth (0.8-1.2 m) even with a drill, but this does not matter.
Drill (dig) as much as possible - optimally 0.4-0.5 m. Place a post in the hole and start driving it into the ground with a sledgehammer to the required depth, like a driven pile. At the same time, control the verticality of the pillar with a level or plumb line.
Concrete the empty space of the well or fill it with crushed stone.
3. Welding fasteners - hooks
Weld 3 hooks onto each post - top, bottom and middle. You can use pieces of thick wire, reinforcement, or nails as hooks. Basically, something that can be bent and used to hold chain-link mesh on posts.
4. Fastening the chain-link mesh to the supports
Roll out the roll of mesh and begin hanging the cells on the hooks, stretching the fabric over the span so that it does not sag. For greater reliability, you can do the following: a little further than the hooks, a steel rod is threaded vertically into the cells.
Then they remove the mesh from the hooks and hang it not by the cells, but by the rod. It can also be threaded horizontally into the mesh from above and below, retreating 5-15 cm from the upper and lower borders of the fabric. Next, this rod is welded to the pillars.
Thus, the mesh fabric receives a wire support that will hold it and will not allow it to sag.
A metal rod is welded to the posts. This ensures secure fastening and protects the mesh (which can be easily removed from the hooks without welding) from theft
Thanks to a chain-link tension fence, you can quickly and inexpensively fence off a large area
We repeat the steps of securing the mesh on all spans of the fence. At the end of the work, bend the metal hooks.
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Here is an example of performing these installation works:
Longitudinal veins are metal corners or wooden slats (beams) that are attached to fence posts and serve for hanging a chain-link mesh. This design differs from the previous hinged version in that the mesh is fixed not on supports, but on veins.
Scheme of a fence made from a chain-link mesh with horizontal veins from a metal corner
Algorithm for making a fence from a chain-link mesh with veins:
1. Marking the area and driving in pillars
Should be done in the same way as when constructing a tension fence
2. Attaching the veins to the posts
Secure the metal corners to the top and bottom of the posts by welding or bolting. Use screws to secure wooden beams.
3. Attaching hooks to veins
Weld hooks to the metal veins - pieces of wire or nails bent upward. Drive nails into the wooden veins and bend them too.
4. Hanging the mesh
Unwind the roll of mesh and begin hanging it on the hooks of the veins at the top and bottom. A little below the upper hooks, through the mesh cells, stretch a steel rod horizontally. Lift the mesh fabric, remove it from the hooks and hang it again, but this time by the rod, and not by the cells.
Fastening the mesh to corners and wooden legs using hooks and a metal rod
Now do the same with the bottom of the mesh. Thread a rod above the lower hooks and use it to hang the net on the hooks. Bend the hooks with several blows of the hammer.
The veins of a mesh fence are most often made from a metal corner, less often - from wooden beams or boards
Option #3 - construction of a sectional fence
In this case, metal frames with a chain-link mesh stretched inside are fixed to the fence supports.
Scheme of a sectional fence made of chain-link mesh
1. Marking the area and installing poles
Identical to the two previous options.
2. Frame making
Weld frames from corners 30x4 mm or 40x5 mm - according to the number of fence spans. The length of the frame is equal to the length of the span minus 10-20 cm. The height of the frame is taken as the height of the column above ground level minus 10-15 cm.
3. Attaching the chain-link mesh to the frame
Unwind the roll of mesh and cut it with a grinder into pieces of the required size. You can do it more aesthetically: plan the size of the section equal to the width of the mesh roll and unfold it vertically, removing excess, separating the wire of the cells. Then secure the mesh to the frame.
Thread a rod into the outer rows of cells along the perimeter of a piece of mesh and weld it to all four sides of the frame.
There is an alternative way: attach the mesh to the frame using hooks that are welded onto the horizontal and vertical corners of the section (in the same way as already described in previous options).
4. Installation of sections on supports
Metal plates (length 20-30 cm, width 5 cm, thickness 5 mm) are welded to the support pillars at the top and bottom, retreating 20-30 cm from the top and bottom of the pillar. Next, the frames of the sections are welded onto the plates.
Sectional fence is the most reliable and durable among all chain-link fences
At the last stage of installing any type of chain-link fence, painting should be done. Pillars, veins or frames (if they are involved in the structure) are painted. Galvanized and plasticized meshes do not need painting, but black wire does. Moreover, it needs to be painted as soon as possible. If you are lazy and do not do this, then after 3-4 days the mesh will be covered with a layer of rust.
Source: http://landscape-project.com/postroiki-v-sadu/zabor-iz-setki-rabicy-svoimi-rukami.html
