How to make an engraver with your own hands - Metals and their processing

⚒ Do-it-yourself hand engraver from a drill: step-by-step instructions

Very often, a home craftsman is faced with the need to make a small notch on a metal or wooden part, engrave on a keychain, or polish a hard-to-reach place. In such cases, bulky power tools cannot be used, so you have to turn to specialists and pay for their services. Today we offer our respected reader a simpler solution to a similar problem, which the author of the “MAGYOM” channel describes in his article.

That's all you need to make a hand engraver
PHOTO: .com

A little about the hand engraver: purpose, features of the tool, necessary materials

A hand engraver, popularly called a drill, is a universal power tool that can perform the tasks of an angle grinder, engraver, drill or even a milling cutter.

However, its peculiarity is that it makes it possible to work with very small parts and in hard-to-reach places. To make it in a garage or workshop you won’t need a lot of material, although you will have to purchase some parts.

But the final cost of the device will not exceed 200 rubles, which is good news.

Let's start with what is needed to make it.

An old clutch or brake cable from a motorcycle (can be found in almost any garage).
A used foam gun.
Mayevsky's tap and a long screw that will be screwed into it.
2 bearings with an internal diameter slightly smaller than the screw.
A copper or steel tube is a car brake line.
Solder wire.
Hacksaw for metal.

A conventional drill will be used as a drive. In addition to the above, you need to prepare a grinder, a blowtorch, a hammer and sandpaper.

Preparing parts for the future drill

You should start by making a tube from a long screw. To do this, you need to clamp the drill in a vice (this must be done by the handle; under no circumstances should you clamp it by the body). A bolt without a head is fixed in the chuck, and a Mayevsky tap is screwed onto its threaded side - it will be used as a guide. Afterwards, a drill is selected that fits the tap hole, the drill is turned on and the screw is drilled exactly in the center to the maximum possible length.

The screw must be drilled in the center for the entire length
PHOTO: .com

Further work requires extreme care. Using two needle files, between which the screw clamped in the drill chuck will rotate, you need to remove the thread so that bearings can be mounted on the resulting sleeve. At the same time, about 6-8 cm of undamaged thread should remain on the side closest to the cartridge - this is very important.

Using needle files, the screw is ground to the required diameter
PHOTO: .com

Assembling the internal part of the engraver mechanism

Having sawed off the screw along the edge of the thread, we screw the Mayevsky tap onto it and put on the first bearing almost all the way, holding the sleeve in a vice. Next, the tube is put on, and then the second bearing fixes it. The inside of the drill is ready.

We put bearings and a tube on the shaft
PHOTO: .com

Working with a spray foam gun

This tool only requires an outer long tube. You need to cut off a section from it, the length of the finished inner part without the Mayevsky tap, adding 2 cm. This will be the shell, which will serve as the handle of the engraver.

The tube of the required size is measured and cut
PHOTO: .com

Manufacturing a collet mechanism for clamping cutters

To make a mechanism capable of holding thin drills or cutters, you will need a hacksaw for metal. The finished shaft is secured in a vice and a cross-shaped notch is made on the side of the remaining thread, along its entire length. Now, if the Mayevsky tap is tightened, the resulting petals will shrink.

The Mayevsky tap itself is ground into a cone for ease of working with the engraver.

We grind the Mayevsky tap to a cone, after which it will be much more convenient to work with it
PHOTO: .com

Flexible shaft manufacturing work

Here you must first free the cable from the sheath, but you cannot throw it away - it will be useful later. The assembled internal part of the rotation mechanism is clamped in a vice, after which one edge of the cable is inserted into a sleeve made from a bolt. Now you need to heat the resulting connection and fill the internal void with molten tin. A blowtorch will help with this work.

The sleeve with the cable warms up, after which molten solder begins to seep into it
PHOTO: .com

All that remains is to tighten the bearings, make sure that the connection is good, after which you can continue assembly.

The connection is checked and the bearings are pressed as tightly as possible
PHOTO: .com

Next, a piece of tube cut from a spray foam gun is placed over both bearings. In fact, the rotation mechanism itself can be considered complete. All that remains is to protect the operator.

The tube is placed over the bearings almost close to the tip
PHOTO: .com

Protection of the master when working with a drill

Now you need to put the cable housing back in place, but this is not easy to do. After the tips are cut off, the cable begins to unravel. Here the same solder and blowtorch will come to the rescue. The casing is put on the cable and pulled until it stops. Due to the fact that the outer tube is slightly longer than the inner one, the protection goes inside. The reverse side of the cable is placed in the brake pipe and pressed in with a hammer.

Crimping the reverse edge, which will be clamped into the drill chuck
PHOTO: .com

The final touch: groove for a wrench

In order to tighten a cutter or drill in a collet chuck, you will need to ensure that the wrench can work with both the shaft and the tip. If there were already edges on Mayevsky’s tap (they remained on the edge), then they need to be made on the bushing. This issue is easily resolved with a flat needle file.

Grooving edges for a wrench on a bushing
PHOTO: .com

Briefly about the manufacture of cutting cutters

It is quite simple to make such consumables, and therefore it will be more convenient to show it exclusively with photographic examples.

On an old cutting disc from an angle grinder, a circle is drawn with a compass
PHOTO: .com The circle is cut out with metal scissors, and a hole is made in the center with an awl
PHOTO: .com A thin long screw is inserted into the hole, which is secured on the reverse side with two nuts
PHOTO: .com Clamping the cutting cutter into the drill, it is centered using a sharpening stone
PHOTO: .com When the cutter is ready, it can be installed in the engraver by tightening the collet chuck with keys
PHOTO: .com

Summarize

The work of making a hand-held electric engraver from a drill with your own hands is not too simple. However, if a home master nevertheless decides to take it up and completes it, then he will receive a unique tool that will always be useful. It is unlikely that such a device will remain idle. And if you compare the cost of such a factory-made product, then the importance of such an engraver in your eyes will increase significantly.

This is what a ready-to-use electric engraver looks like
PHOTO: .com And this is the work it successfully performs
PHOTO: .com

We hope that the information we provide today will not leave any home master indifferent. If you have any questions on the topic, ask them in the comments below. Our editors will definitely answer them.

Did you like the method of making the drill? Then don't forget to rate our review.

The Homius editors invite home craftsmen and craftsmen to become co-authors of the “Stories” section. Useful first-person stories will be published on the pages of our online magazine.

PHOTO: Instagram “MAGYOM”

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Source: https://homius.ru/ruchnoj-gravjor-svoimi-rukami.html

How to make a laser and electric engraver mini drill with your own hands at home

Engraving equipment, with which you can successfully perform various technological operations, is now actively used by both specialists and home craftsmen.

Although purchasing such a device on the modern market does not present any problems, many of those who would like to have it in their workshop do otherwise and make an engraver with their own hands.

Homemade engraver with a holder from a dental drill

Despite the simplicity of the design, a homemade engraving machine allows you to successfully perform the same technological operations as a serial model engraver. Such operations, in particular, include:

milling of flat and shaped surfaces, as well as holes and grooves of various configurations;
drilling and boring small diameter holes;
cutting thin sheet material;
cleaning the product from traces of corrosion and other persistent contaminants;
applying inscriptions and patterns to the treated surface;
grinding and polishing.

A homemade engraver with a sandpaper attachment is great for grinding surfaces in hard-to-reach places

What you need

The functionality, reliability and technical characteristics that a homemade engraving machine will have depend entirely on what materials and mechanisms you will use to make it.

Almost any electric motor can be turned into an engraving machine by adding a flexible shaft with a holder

To make a simple, but easy to use and functional engraver, you will need the following components.

A flexible shaft and a working attachment for it, in the clamping mechanism of which the tool will be fixed. As a flexible shaft for the engraver, you can use the drive shaft from a drill or a cable that drives the speedometer of a car or motorcycle. The working attachment can also be removed from the drill or made independently from a block of textolite, grinding it to the required diameter and drilling a stepped hole in its inner part. The diameter of the hole in the working nozzle of the engraver must be selected in such a way that its walls reliably hold the stationary part of the drive cable, but at the same time do not interfere with the rotation of its movable core. A tube is inserted into the hole in the front part of such a homemade working attachment, inside which a clamping chuck made of two halves, fastened together with a screw, rotates freely. The chuck, which must be balanced, can accommodate a tool with a shank diameter in the range of 2–5 mm.
A set of tools with which processing will be performed. If you use a drill handle as a working attachment for a homemade engraver, then the tools should also be from dental equipment that match the diameter of the shanks. For a homemade working attachment, as mentioned above, any tool with a shank diameter of 2 to 5 mm is suitable.
A drive electric motor, which can be used as any motor powered by an electric current of 220 volts. This could be a motor from a DVD player or from an old reel-to-reel tape recorder, washing machine, or any other household appliance you don't use. An electric motor from a sewing machine is optimal for a homemade engraver, because it is already equipped with a rheostat, which allows you to regulate the shaft rotation speed within a fairly wide range. Such motors, as a rule, are capable of shaft rotation speeds of up to 6 thousand rpm, which is quite enough for a household engraver.

Design of a homemade engraving machine with a flexible shaft

Machine parts

Drawings of engraver partsBedCasingBracket and clamp

Bushing and angle Holder Electric motor connection diagram

The principle of operation of a homemade engraving machine

The homemade engraver of the proposed design works according to the following principle. Rotation from the electric motor is transmitted through pulleys and a rubber belt to a flexible shaft, which, in turn, communicates it to the working attachment and the tool fixed in it.

A do-it-yourself engraving machine can be made in another design, which assumes that the flexible shaft is connected to the electric motor via an adapter coupling.

At one end, such a coupling is mounted on the electric motor shaft and securely fixed on it with a pin, and the movable core of the flexible shaft is inserted into a square hole made at its other end.

The device of the simplest homemade engraver

After all the structural elements of the future homemade engraver are prepared, they begin to manufacture it.

For reliable and stable fastening of all structural elements of the engraver, it is necessary to make a simple base frame, for which you can use a sheet of textolite or thick plywood, cutting out a piece of the required size from it. At pre-marked places on the surface of such a base, an electric motor and a bracket with a clamp are attached, in which the rear tip of the flexible shaft will be fixed. After tightening the fastening nut on the bracket clamp, the end of the flexible shaft should be securely fixed in it.
Pre-prepared pulleys, which can also be removed from old household appliances, are fixed on the electric motor shaft and on the movable core of the flexible shaft. To perform such fixation, it is necessary to drill holes in the flange part of the pulleys and on the shafts into which pins will then be inserted. Regular epoxy resin will help ensure the reliability of the connection. The transmission of rotation from an electric motor to a flexible shaft, carried out using pulleys and belts, is convenient in that by changing the diameters of the pulleys used, you can adjust the frequency of rotation transmitted to the grower.
The final stages of manufacturing an engraver of the proposed design are installing a rubber belt on the pulleys of the flexible shaft and electric motor, connecting the motor to electrical power, fixing the working attachment with the tool at the front end of the flexible shaft and testing the finished device.

To make your engraver safer to use, make a compact casing for its electric motor and belt drive (you can use regular plywood).

Since your hands are busy holding the workpiece and the working attachment when working with the device, you can equip the engraver with a foot pedal to turn it on and off.

The main element of such a pedal, the body of which is also often made of plywood, is a regular push button.

Some useful tips

When deciding which flexible shaft to use to equip your homemade engraver, it is better to choose drive elements from dental drills. It is recommended to do this for the reason that such shafts, even removed from old drills, are already equipped with working attachments with collet-type clamping mechanisms, in which the tool used is very conveniently and securely fixed.

Meanwhile, using a flexible shaft from a dental drill as a drive element for an engraver attachment also has certain inconveniences.

They consist in the fact that for dental attachments it is not always possible to select the tools required when working on an engraving unit.

This problem can be solved quite simply: many tools for an engraver can be made independently, using available materials.

Homemade engraver attachments

THIS IS INTERESTING: How to engrave a lighter at home

Thus, fairly high-quality cutters for engraving machines can be made from broken drills if, using a regular sharpening machine, their working part is given the required configuration. Abrasive heads of various shapes, which are actively used when processing with an engraver, can be made from scraps of a grinding wheel of medium hardness.

First, such fragments must be equipped with a shank, which is made of steel wire with a diameter of 2.6 mm.

Then such a shank is inserted into a pre-made hole in the abrasive fragment and embedded in it using epoxy resin.

The last thing that remains to be done to transform such a workpiece into a full-fledged tool for an engraver is to give its abrasive part the required configuration using a sharpening machine equipped with a high-hardness wheel.

Source: https://qteck.ru/kak-sdelat-lazernyj-i-elektricheskij-graver-mini-drel-svoimi-rukami-v-domashnix-usloviyax.html

DIY engraver at home

Engraving on metal always attracts the eye. This trade has fed artisans since ancient times. And today it has not lost its relevance. Craftsmen can turn everyday objects into real works of high art by decorating them with fancy miniatures. Sometimes you can see entire paintings of considerable size, made by engraving artists. And few people know that absolutely anyone can do this business.

Photo 1. Souvenir engraved hunting knife, an ideal gift that can be given to hunters.

Do-it-yourself engraving can become a profitable and interesting business if you really want it.

You can decorate small metal objects using engraving yourself at home. This activity will arouse the respect and envy of friends and acquaintances. In Zlatoust, thousands of craftsmen practice this craft at home. Engraved items are expensive.

A saber costs approximately 300 thousand rubles, a hunting knife costs up to 100 thousand (photo No. 1). Agree, this is good money.

How to make engraving on metal at home with your own hands? For this lesson you need to prepare the simplest equipment that can be found in any house, in any apartment.

Let's start experiments

Decorative patterns using the engraving method are applied to plates, knives, pistols, sabers, medals, cups, and apartment numbers. All patterns and inscriptions are preserved almost forever and do not require expensive and rare consumables or special equipment for execution. The design can be applied to steel, aluminum, brass, copper, and metal alloys. The method does not pollute the environment. It is impossible to wash off or erase the drawing using conventional methods and means.

It is recommended to start by applying simple inscriptions on cutlery. Relatives and friends may appreciate such a gift. You need to prepare for work (photo No. 4).

Photo 2. Engraved wedding rings, the wedding date and the initials of the bride and groom are usually written on them.

Nail polish that my wife doesn't really need.
Toothpick with sharp tips.
You may need an ordinary match.
Salt.
Charger for car battery. It can be successfully replaced by charging from a mobile phone.
Glass or porcelain dishes in the form of a glass, mug or jar.
Nail polish remover.

The work is done in this order:

Take a spoon and cover it with nail polish. The entire surface must be varnished very carefully, otherwise there will be defects in the work.
Using a match or toothpick, a pattern, name, or other image is scratched through the layer of varnish.
Pour 2 tablespoons of salt into a glass glass or jar. Some people add a spoonful of salt and a spoonful of soda.
Water is poured into the vessel, the salt is thoroughly stirred until completely dissolved.
We connect a car or other charger with the positive terminal to the product being processed, and the negative terminal to any metal object that will be placed in a vessel with water. This item could be another spoon, a piece of thick wire, or a metal plate.
The rectifier is connected to the network. Almost immediately, an etching reaction will begin in the glass with darkening of the liquid. It lasts 1-5 minutes. It depends on the magnitude of the current. The product is checked periodically. After reaching the desired etching depth, it is removed from the container.
The varnish is washed off with nail polish remover. The result should look something like this (photo No. 3).

Photo 3. Personalized engraved spoons and, interestingly, engraving can be done on various metal objects in a simple home environment.

In this way you can process any metal objects at home. If you make an inscription with varnish, it will be convex on the etched background. For better quality work, it is recommended to purchase a special tool - an engraver.

It can operate from the electrical network and from built-in batteries. The kit usually comes with drills of different shapes. They can work on glass, plastics and other materials. Engraved wedding rings are an excellent gift for newlyweds (photo No. 2).

But you can do this yourself only when you are completely confident in the result of the work.

Glass engraving

Photo 4. For home engraving you will need regular salt, nail polish, nail polish cleaner and a glass of water.

Do-it-yourself engraving on the glass surface is done chemically and mechanically. The mechanical method involves the use of a nozzle that is driven by an electric motor. Procedure:

Using a dark marker, the drawing is transferred to the glass.
A damp sponge is applied to the image on the glass. This must be done carefully so as not to smudge the drawing.
When working, you must use safety glasses.
After completing the drawing, it is washed and examined for gaps. If necessary, missed places are processed again.

Engraving with a drill

The principle of do-it-yourself engraving can be seen in the dentist's office. The special tip is held in the hand in the same way as a regular pen when writing. The pattern can be applied to any object: a ring, a mirror, a motorcycle, a sign, etc. You can engrave a portrait or any other image.

We must not forget that the color of engraving on glass, ceramics, stone, porcelain is always white. But it can be carefully coated with silver, gold and any other waterproof paint. The effect can exceed all expectations.

Drawings and patterns can be applied to wood coated with a layer of paint, to plastic, silver, plastic.

Manual work requires patience and certain skills that develop over time. The skill is honed over the years.

Incisive engraving

Photo 5. Master's kit is a set of tools and materials that is always at hand for a professional engraver.

There is a type of hand engraving, which is usually called incisor engraving. It is performed using special cutters - gravers (photo No. 5). There can be different numbers of gravers. Some allow you to make the finest lines, others allow you to make several parallel cuts at the same time. Experienced engravers use this tool.

Stichels need to be able to be sharpened correctly and brought to working condition. Beginner engravers may not be able to do this. Do-it-yourself engraving, especially on metal, is an ancient art. Cold steel, and then firearms, decorated in this way are considered especially valuable and of high quality.

Absolutely anyone can try engraving on small objects like cutlery and knives at home.

Sometimes you need to sign a gift beautifully, but it’s not clear how to do it. The paint spreads and wears off quickly, so a marker is not an option. Engraving is best suited for this. You don’t even have to spend money on it, since anyone who knows how to solder can make a laser engraver from a printer with their own hands.

Design and principle of operation

The main element of the engraver is a semiconductor laser. It emits a focused and very bright beam of light that burns through the material being processed. By adjusting the radiation power, you can change the depth and speed of burning.

Source: https://crast.ru/instrumenty/graver-svoimi-rukami-v-domashnih-uslovijah

Wood carving with an engraver for beginners

Very often, when making a relief image on a wooden surface, craftsmen, in order to make the task easier, use special drills with various attachments. This equipment can be used as a dental bur or special hand engravers for a certain type of material (glass, wood, metal). Wood carving using a conventional engraver, especially for beginners, requires certain skills and presents some difficulties.

The very first problem that you will have to face is choosing a drill from the huge variety of options presented on the modern market.

How to choose the right drill?

Despite the great variety of drills on the market, choosing the right one, knowing the necessary technical characteristics, is not so difficult. The main selection criteria are engine power, which determines the number of revolutions of the drill per minute, and torque.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-OLLJxLq4E

When choosing a drill, you will always have to make a choice between the ability to withstand heavy loads and the ability to work for a long time at high speeds, because not a single machine, unfortunately, combines these two important qualities. It is for this reason that the best option is to purchase two drills with different technical characteristics.

The best option for wood carving would be:

Powerful drill with reinforced tip.
Compact micromotor capable of operating at high speeds.

If you really like to save money and also get along well with technical equipment, then you can assemble your first drill yourself: to do this, you need to take a motor from a washing machine or any other motor of sufficient power and, using a belt drive, connect it to the sleeve from the drill. All this action requires dexterity and some skills, besides, the sleeve and tip itself will still have to be purchased.

Technical drills.

Russian production produces quite powerful sleeveless drills “Profile” with a pedal - This model is very reliable and allows you to perform an incredibly wide range of technical operations: drilling, grinding and much more, despite the low speed.

For years, the drill machine from Foredom SR from the USA has gained its authority in the market (you can see this device in the photo below). Very reliable in operation, even under high loads. All spare parts can be purchased at almost any store that sells tools for jewelers. The choice of attachments is very large and varied: from power collet attachments to convenient quick-release attachments.

Micromotors.

Micromotors These are unique mini drills - they are more compact and do without a flexible shaft. Their motor is mounted directly behind the tip. Such machines are very convenient to use for the most delicate work; it is for these purposes that they are very convenient.

Among the Russian ones, the DPM 25-2 drill with a specialized medical handpiece should be highlighted. It fits very comfortably in the hand, the burs can be changed easily and quickly, and the price for a machine with such characteristics is not at all high.

But it should still be noted that the medical handpiece is not designed for heavy loads, and therefore, if used too often, it can quickly fail. The micromotor cannot be repaired, since the carbon brushes, which wear out over time, cannot be replaced.

Thus, from time to time you will have to change the engine or purchase a new drill entirely. Otherwise, this is a very good, budget and convenient option. You can also look for good analogues from Korea.

The following drills are attractive for their functionality and reliability, but in Russia Marathon or Strong drills are quite expensive. They have very high speed and power ratings - up to 30,000 rpm and a power of 65W. For a micromotor, these figures are very respectable. The best masters work with just such drills.

It should be noted that the above micromotors are only suitable for small burs and small bur cutters. Using large cutters on them, you will significantly reduce the resource of the tool and its service life. It is for this reason that it is necessary to have at least two types of drills in your arsenal.

Usually the drill is equipped with a flexible shaft. It is convenient to use when performing small parts in the thread. However, when using a flexible shaft, the drill loses half its power.

Tips for carving.

So, carving is best done on wood species with a monolithic structure: linden, beech, alder, pear. Pine, ash and oak are less suitable for this purpose.

The first step is to transfer the sketch to the board and shade the background that you will remove.

The picture around the office should be outlined with a small drill with a round star-shaped section. After which the entire background is hammered with the same drill, albeit of a larger diameter, to complete the job faster.

In order to select a large amount of background, it is convenient to use the limiter attachment that comes with the drill.

The cutting depth must first be adjusted and practiced on an extra piece of wood.

After the background is completely cut through, it is sanded with sandpaper.

After this, the details are cut out in the drawing itself.

After completing the work, you should sand the entire picture and cover it with stain, then go over it with sandpaper so that the stain remains only in those places where the background is lower.

Source: https://sdelala-sama.ru/podelki/1193-rezba-po-derevu-graverom-dlya-nachinayuschih.html

How to make an engraver with your own hands - components and assembly procedure

Engraving equipment, with which you can successfully perform various technological operations, is now actively used by both specialists and home craftsmen. Although purchasing such a device on the modern market does not present any problems, many of those who would like to have it in their workshop do otherwise and make an engraver with their own hands.

Homemade engraver with a holder from a dental drill

milling of flat and shaped surfaces, as well as holes and grooves of various configurations;
drilling and boring small diameter holes;
cutting thin sheet material;
cleaning the product from traces of corrosion and other persistent contaminants;
applying inscriptions and patterns to the treated surface;
grinding and polishing.

A homemade engraver with a sandpaper attachment is great for grinding surfaces in hard-to-reach places

The materials that a homemade electric engraver can process are metal, wood, plastic, ceramics, glass, bone, artificial and natural stone.

DIY mini engraver

A compact homemade mini drill can be used for drilling printed circuit boards if you suddenly decide to assemble some electrical appliance with your own hands.

In addition, hand tools can be used for ordinary household purposes, if there is a need to drill a small hole in a wooden board or plastic.

THIS IS INTERESTING: How to solder plumbing pipes

Next, we will tell you how to make a mini drill from a motor with your own hands, providing photo instructions and visual video examples!

Method No. 1 – Second life for an old tape recorder

As you understand, the first version of a homemade mini drill will be made from a CD recorder forgotten by time. All you need from the former bestseller is a motor that will rotate the drill.

Since the device is powered by 6 Volts, you will additionally have to find an appropriate power supply or battery.

In addition, you need to buy a collet yourself (sold in any radio store, the price is low) and find a suitable housing for your homemade product.

So, in order to make a mini drill from a motor yourself at home, you must follow these steps:

Solder two wires to the contacts of the device, as shown in the photo.
Install a drill of a suitable size into the collet.
Place the finished nozzle on the motor shaft, which will rotate. Please note that the collet hole must ideally fit the shaft diameter, which is usually 1.5 or 2.3 mm. Otherwise, it will be difficult for you to remove vibration when operating a homemade small drill.
Carefully tighten all 4 bolts on the nozzle, then connect the wires to the power source and test the finished homemade product.

That's all the technology for assembling a device with your own hands. As you can see, making a microdrill from a motor is not at all difficult, even for a novice electrician.

The only drawback of this device is the low strength of the thin drill.

If you drill holes not at right angles, it will immediately break.

A very important point that you should know about is that to make the drill spin in the other direction, just swap the wires! An interesting video instruction on how to make a simple drill was provided by Roman Ursu on his video blog page:

A simple drill made from improvised means

Method No. 2 – Use the reel!

Another original way to make a mini drill at home is using a fishing rod reel.

In this case, the assembly technology is quite simple, but the operating principle itself will be based not on the electrical operation of the motor, but on mechanical rotation, like a small drill.

To make a device with your own hands you will need:

spinning reel;
chuck from an old drill or collet;
hot glue or cold welding;
drill.

The assembly process is quite simple and consists of only two steps. The first step is to dismantle the spool with fishing line and cut off the remaining axle.

After this, the cartridge is glued to the remaining rod. You can do without a chuck and install the collet yourself. When the glue has hardened, you can check the finished mini drill.

You can see all the assembly details in this video example:

How to make a micro drill from a coil yourself?

Method number 3 – Antiperspirant idea

Well, the last version of a homemade mini drill, which we would like to provide to the readers of Sam Electric - using a cassette motor and an antiperspirant container. The advantage of this model is that it will be controlled by a separate on/off button and at the same time charged from a conventional power supply.

So, first you will need to prepare the following materials:

motor from a tape recorder;
suitable collet with drill;
used antiperspirant;
RCA socket for power connection;
switch from an old carrier.

The first step is to make a mini drill according to the instructions provided at the very beginning: place the collet on the shaft and secure it with bolts. Next, the motor housing is installed in the antiperspirant. As you can see from the photo, the dimensions are ideal for installing the part.

After this, you need to drill a hole in the top cover for the exit of the collet or the drill itself.

At the same time, you need to make a hole in the bottom for the outlet of the power cord from the motor.

Using a utility knife, you also need to cut out a window for the switch, and then solder all the circuit elements.

The advantage of this version of a homemade mini drill is its convenient operation, small size and at the same time stylish appearance. We recommend making this particular option at home, especially since you can find everything at home using the available materials!

Review of various creation ideas

Examples for inspiration

Above we have provided the 3 most popular options for a homemade micro drill for drilling printed circuit boards.

On the forums we found a few more original ideas that may inspire you to make your own, unique homemade product.

So, here is a photo of spare parts ideas for creating a mini drill with your own hands at home:

Glue gun handle for easy operation. The motor was taken from an old Canon printer. Power is supplied from a conventional charger.
Second life for a hairdryer. According to the inventor, this homemade product is made from a hair dryer. In a similar way, you can make a device from an old blender, leaving the handle untouched.
Toothbrush for drilling circuit boards. You probably won't be surprised, but the next idea is to use a toothbrush as a mini drill. There are already batteries and a motor; you just need to cut off the top part and install a collet-shaped attachment.
A plastic bottle can also be successfully used as a housing for a homemade drill. These drawings will be useful to you if you decide to make such a device yourself.
Another option with a toggle switch for convenient control. In this case, to drill holes on the signets, you will not need to constantly connect the power to the outlet. In addition, a comfortable handle will make the drilling process comfortable.

That's all I wanted to tell you about how to make a mini drill from a motor with your own hands. As you can see, there is nothing complicated, and there are a limitless number of ideas for assembly.

We hope that our photo examples and video instructions were useful and interesting for you.

In addition, you can assemble a micro drill yourself using an old DVD drive, a screwdriver, an electric razor, and even a motor from a washing machine!

Source: https://steelfactoryrus.com/mini-graver-svoimi-rukami/

Wood carving with an engraver for beginners: master class and instructions on how to choose an engraver - Site about needlework

Wood carving drills differ in engine power, speed (number of revolutions made per minute) and torque. They can be powerful, withstanding heavy loads, or compact, but operating for a long time at high speeds:

Large cutter making 10 thousand rpm;
Small bur , with a speed of 20 thousand rpm.

You should not give preference to engravers that perform 30 thousand rpm - they are practically not in demand in work.

A drill that operates at high speeds and simultaneously withstands the powerful load of a large cutter has not yet been created. Therefore, experts recommend immediately purchasing at least two tools that differ in characteristics, for example:

The micromotor is compact in size and operates at high speeds.
A drill with good power, equipped with a reinforced tip.

Complex work is performed with a tool with an additional handle, and a compact device does an excellent job of applying small strokes.

When choosing a serial model of an engraver that will work in multitasking mode, one starts not only from expert reviews, but also from characteristics and functionality.

Advice from the experts

Beginning craftsmen who want to save on buying a tool can make a drill with their own hands. To do this, you will need an electric motor removed from an old washing machine or some other engine, which must be powerful. You cannot do without a belt drive, which must connect to the drill sleeve. The latter, like the tips, will have to be purchased separately.

Homemade drill

A homemade engraver can be replaced with a drill and screwdriver. In this case, you will have to purchase a flexible shaft that will be attached to the tool, as well as a special attachment that acts as a fastener.

The resulting drill will be able to make fine patterns, but its power will be low.

Those working with a homemade device should take care of a tripod in order to hang the tool on it and manipulate the attachments through the flexible shaft.

With a homemade engraver you can create subtle inscriptions and patterns, and process metal, plastic and bone parts.

Some useful tips:

It is convenient to use linden, beech, alder or pear wood. When choosing pine and ash blanks, you need to be prepared for the fact that you won’t get a high-quality design on it;
The background, on large workpieces, is performed with a nozzle with a limiter;
The depth of the slot is selected before starting work. A small piece of wood on which you can use a drill will help you not to make a mistake with it.

A stencil helps simplify and make the engraving process more accurate. To start working, you need to transfer the selected pattern from it to the workpiece and finish drawing it if necessary.

The drill allows you to make inscriptions on wood, as well as patterns of varying complexity

A wood carving drill allows you to apply artistic inscriptions and relief images to the surface of the material. However, beginners in this business need to know the technology for doing the work. Advice from masters, as well as a sequential diagram of wood carving with a drill using sketches, will help in solving this issue.

How to choose a drill

The key to success in this activity largely depends on the chosen tool. First of all, you must decide on the workload of the drill. It is recommended to pay attention to two aspects:

The power of the micromotor, which will determine the duration of operation of the equipment under mechanical loads.
The number of revolutions of the working body into which the nozzles will be fixed.

Those wishing to engage in this activity professionally should be aware that they will need to purchase two tools. To date, drills with high power and high speed have not been invented. For this reason, beginning craftsmen should purchase:

A powerful drill with a reinforced tip design;
Smaller tool for fine work.

The next step is to select a workpiece. Experts recommend giving preference to wood species with a dense, uniform structure. The best choice would be: linden, pear, beech or alder. Oak, spruce, and pine blanks will not be the best choice. The disadvantage is the poor quality reflection of the texture of the drawing.

Drill carving technology

Having decided on the workpiece, you need to create a sketch using thick paper and prepare your work area.

The latter must be equipped with a powerful electrical device, the light of which allows you to examine in detail any engraving elements.

To fix the stencil on the surface to be processed, you will need masking tape, and if parts of the sketch will be applied directly to the workpiece, a felt-tip pen or pencil, as well as alcohol to degrease its surface.

The process of working with the workpiece looks something like this:

Transferring the stencil to the surface of the workpiece using carbon paper. If a paper template is not used, the surface is degreased with alcohol before applying the inscription or image. The areas to be selected are shaded with a black pencil.
Trace the outline of the design with a small bur with a cutter having a star-shaped or needle-shaped section. At this stage, small drills can be used.
Stroke with a large tip and select the background part. The sampling depth is pre-selected on an unnecessary piece of wood.
Sanding the background with a piece of fine sandpaper.
Performing small items.
Polishing the surface with a felt roller to remove any burrs left by tools. Stain coating.
Cleaning the finished product with fine sandpaper - the stain should remain only in its background part.
Applying the base by rubbing in a neutral shade of paint. The finishing decor can be bronze powder, the excess of which should be removed with a flannel cloth.

This is approximately how engraving of small and not very complex designs occurs. You should start creating more complex products only after completing woodcarving training in courses or from a master.

In this video, the master demonstrates carving with a drill.
Any master wants to make a high-quality drawing with clear contours. To do this, you need to follow simple tips that will make your work much easier:

Create a stencil, preferably using thick paper, for which thin cardboard is suitable.
Using carbon paper, transfer the contours to the workpiece.
Using small cutters, go through the marked areas.

In this way, a stencil will be created that will make the engraving process much easier, this will be especially noticeable if the pattern is repeating.

It is important to choose the right nozzle from many types:

- Abrasive. Designed for grinding;

- Wire brush. It is an indispensable thing in rough processing of workpieces;

- Steel cutters. These are the main attachments, thanks to which contours are cut and other preliminary operations are performed;

- Serrated blades. They are necessary for finishing workpieces with thin relief;

- Drill. The main purpose is to make holes;

- Sharoshki. Thanks to them you can do polishing;

- Felt circles. Necessary in the final stages of work.

Safety precautions

A drill, like other cutting power tools, requires compliance with safety precautions. Its requirements are as follows:

When working, it is important that the work surface is stable and clean.

Work on a strong and stable table that remains in place while carving.
Wear a robe or apron made of thick fabric, choose sleeveless clothing or roll them up as high as possible. Hair, if long, should be gathered in a ponytail and hidden under a headscarf or light headdress.
Secure the workpieces with special devices so that the work process proceeds quickly and safely.
The light should be bright. The lighting fixtures are positioned so that the craftsman does not cast a shadow on the work surface while carving.
Wear safety glasses.
Check the sharpness of sharpening points on a wooden block, not your fingers.
Maintain order and cleanliness in the workplace so that you don’t stumble upon anything sharp among the sawdust that has accumulated on the table.
Clean the work surface with brushes, not with your hands. From time to time, wipe the tables with a damp cloth to remove accumulated dust.
After work, put tools and attachments in their places.
Ensure that electrical tools and their cords are in good condition.
Check how the tools are plugged into the outlet and untangle twisted cords.
Turn off the tool, which does not have a ventilation system, every 10-15 minutes. for cooling.
Remember about fire safety - dry shavings are flammable, so they should not come into contact with heating devices.
Make sure there is a first aid kit in the work area.

Faulty parts are replaced only with similar ones, and the engraver’s ventilation holes are cleaned immediately after finishing work with it.

A drill used in a workshop or at home will last longer if you provide it with proper care.

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Faulty parts are replaced only with similar ones, and the engraver’s ventilation holes are cleaned immediately after finishing work with it.

It is necessary to regularly check devices and tools used in parallel with carving equipment: the surface cannot have nicks, cracks or other defects.

It is necessary to start carving wood with a drill in a well-lit room, on a work table, where there are no unnecessary things. Lack of light and clutter are causes of injury while working. Make sure there are no explosive substances nearby.

When making adjustments, you should unplug the instrument from the outlet. Under no circumstances should you clean or change accessories while the equipment is powered on! The use of tools with defects is strictly prohibited.

Conclusion

Wood carving is a very difficult process, so before you begin, you need to pay attention to a number of nuances. The right tool, as well as suitable cutters for the job, will be the key to success. However, remember that safety comes first!

By keeping these aspects in mind, you will achieve success in wood carving. The drill requires regular, appropriate care with cleaning and replacement of worn parts, as well as compliance with safety precautions during operation. These actions will help maintain the functionality of the equipment for a long time and make it work as efficiently as possible.

Source: https://art-fashn.ru/dekupazh/rezba-po-derevu-graverom-dlya-nachinayushhih-master-klass-i-instruktsiya-kak-vybrat-graver.html

Do-it-yourself laser engraver is an excellent solution for the workshop

instrument.guru > DIY > Do-it-yourself laser engraver - an excellent solution for the workshop

Lasers came into use a long time ago. Guides use light pointers, builders set levels with beam support. The purpose of the laser is to heat substances (up to thermal destruction) - it is used for cutting and decorating. One application is laser engraving. On different materials it is possible to obtain fine patterns with virtually no restrictions on complexity.

How to make an engraver from a printer?
Stages of machine production
How to assemble a laser engraving device using a diode from an old DVD drive?
What will be needed to complete the job?

We offer a wide selection of engraving machines, mostly made in China. The equipment is not very expensive, however, purchasing it simply for the purpose of entertainment is not advisable. It’s much more fun to make a homemade laser engraver with your own hands.

How to make an engraver from a printer?

How to make an engraver with your own hands? Making a CNC engraver from an old printer is not at all difficult. It's like an Arduino constructor. Detailed instructions will undoubtedly help you navigate everything.

However, first you need to prepare all the required components for the CNC:

3 studs from the hardware store;
duralumin U-profile;
2 metal bearings;
a piece of plexiglass;
metal nuts of ordinary size and large;
3 stepper motors, they can be taken from an old printer.

It is also necessary to have the following devices at hand:

The only thing that will need to be done outside the house is to weld the base for the CNC machine, although it can also be done in a bolted manner.

Stages of machine production

The manufacture of the engraver begins with the fastening of the lead screw and profile. The final stage is to use a sled .

Progress:

the bearings are secured with heat shrink support, and for the purpose of tightening, lightweight plastic - an ordinary document cover - will work perfectly;
a plate in the shape of the letter “P” with a bolt is attached to the lead screw; it is needed to secure the X-axis plane;
The motor in the X axis is attached with lengths of studs. The line is secured with an adapter and a piece of rubber hose. On one side it is screwed into the running axle, and the other end is fixed in the adapter;
It is also very convenient and easy to fix the motor into the frame;
We make the platform from plexiglass, in which it is imperative to install a separator made from a profile and a pressure roller. The platform should be the size of the working field of the machine;
the Y axis is assembled in the same way as the X axis, only one difference is in the motor mount - it must be attached to the X axis;
It will not be difficult to correctly compile the Y axis, since it practically repeats all the outlines of the X axis, only the pressure skates must be secured in front.

The engraving machine in this modification, developed with our own hands, can be an ordinary home Dremel. attach your own engraver using plexiglass.

Now you have your DIY desktop laser engraver ready. Now all that remains is to connect it using limit switches. This homemade device makes it possible to carry out stone carving at home, but does not make it possible to divide it.

How to assemble a laser engraving device using a diode from an old DVD drive?

You can make your own laser from a DVD drive. An optical beam made with your own hands is unlikely to cope with iron or wood .

However, it will be completely possible for them to share:

paper;
small sheet of plastic;
plastic film;
other simple and delicate items.

In addition to the above alternatives, a laser made with your own hands from a DVD drive can be used for many different tasks. In particular, his potential is perfectly revealed in the creative field.

If you don't need a thread , you can use a laser from a DVD drive to:

burn patterns or pictures on wood surfaces;
illuminate various objects at a great distance;
use as decoration at home;
make direct lines (since the beam is clearly visible), which will be especially useful during construction and repair.

What will be needed to complete the job?

To make a beam, you will need certain elements. They are always sold in ordinary electronics shopping centers, therefore, you won’t have to put in any extra effort.

Thus, for the purpose of production you will need:

disk drive (DVD drive) – it is allowed to use a damaged model, as long as the laser diode works;
soldering iron - virtually any one will do, huge productivity is not required;
a certain number of small wiring - needed for the purpose of assembling elements with each other;
portable collimator (or an ordinary laser pointer);
2 resistors with 10 Ohm resistance;
3 AAA batteries (pinky batteries);
2 capacitors, one - 0.1 µF, the second - 100 µF;
pliers;
small screwdriver.
small knife;
in some versions, the LM-317 circuit may be needed.

Disassembly of the drive must be carried out with special care. If handled carelessly, you can not only damage the mechanism, but also cause damage to your own eyes. The problem is that the beam has the ability to blind at some time and negatively affect visual acuity.

Now the homemade device should be provided with electric current. The power supply of a conventional diode must be 3V, and the consumption must be up to 400 mA. These values may vary depending on the write speed of the drive.

The laser does not require huge performance. So, for the components of a drive whose write speed is 16X, 200 mA is sufficient.

This value can be increased to a maximum of 300 milliamps, otherwise there is a possibility of damaging the crystal and forgetting about the homemade laser.

The easiest way to make a homemade collimator is with an ordinary laser pointer. The cheapest Chinese option will also work. All that is necessary is to remove the optical lens from the “laser” (it is visible). The width of the half-line will be more than 5 millimeters.

Of course, this kind of coefficient is huge and cannot in any way claim the title of laser. The stock collimator lens will help reduce the diameter down to 1 mm.

Although in order to achieve such an effect, you will have to work thoroughly.

Creating a laser with your own hands is a very interesting process. It does not require any specialized parts or large economic costs. Completely neat and shallow knowledge of electrics is enough. If production is successful, you can start using the device. The cutting beam easily pops balloons, burns through paper and leaves imprints on wood. However, when using, one should not forget about technical safety.

Source: https://instrument.guru/svoimi-rukami/lazernyj-graver-svoimi-rukami-otlichnoe-reshenie-dlya-masterskoj.html

How to assemble a homemade engraver at home - RabochayaTekhnika

instrument.guru > DIY > Do-it-yourself laser engraver - an excellent solution for the workshop

How to make an engraver from a printer?
Stages of machine production
How to assemble a laser engraving device using a diode from an old DVD drive?
What will be needed to complete the job?

Making your own engraving machine

Creating an engraving machine with your own hands is quite a difficult task. Despite this, there are craftsmen who can make a homemade engraving machine with numerical control at home, which is much more difficult. In this article we will provide detailed instructions, following which you can create your own device for engraving processing of workpieces.

Of course, constructing such a device at home requires large material costs and solid skills, but by making such a machine yourself, you can save a significant amount of money and create a device that best suits your production goals.

Where to begin?

If you decide to make an engraving machine with your own hands, we recommend that you immediately design a CNC device. This will significantly increase the performance of the device and make it easier to work with. After this, decide on the layout of the device. As a basis, you can take an old mini-drilling machine and replace the drill in it with the cutter itself.

We further recommend that you adhere to the following instructions:

Select a mechanism that will be responsible for moving the working unit along planes. For these purposes, you can use carriages from an old printer. In addition, a device designed in this way will make it relatively easy to connect a digital node. It is worth noting that the carriages are best taken from large printers. This will significantly strengthen the design of the machine.
Equip your machine with a powerful stepper motor. For this purpose, we recommend using old electric motors.
Pay special attention to the milling unit.
To carry out transmission from the engine to the working unit, it is best to use a toothed belt drive.

Assembling the device

After we have decided on the layout of the machine and the origin of its main parts, it’s time to start assembling our apparatus for engraving blanks. The basis for the device can be a rectangular beam, which is installed on guides. It is recommended to fasten the remaining structural elements to the beam using screws.

The fact is that our entire structure must have increased rigidity, since during operation it will be subject to quite serious loads. The lack of reliable fastenings and unstable installation will certainly affect the quality of workpiece processing.

At the same time, you should not overuse welding. The fact is that welding seams are quite seriously susceptible to deformation and destruction. Such connections are especially difficult to tolerate various vibrations, of which there will be quite a lot during operation of the device. The guides should also be made of durable material, resistant to a wide variety of deformations.

Otherwise, this structural element will have to be changed after a relatively short time after the start of using the machine. The design of the device must include a lifting mechanism for the milling unit. It is best to use a screw drive for these purposes.

The vertical axis for the machine is best made from an aluminum plate. Its dimensions must be compared with the dimensions of other elements of the machine structure. When we have the axis ready, we can begin installing stepper motors. The first will move in the horizontal direction, and the second in the vertical direction. Transmission method: belt. Before using the machine, it must be operated manually.

Any modern engraving machine is only as effective as its software. High-quality electrical equipment also plays a decisive role.

What a digital node should look like:

The software must have all the necessary drivers for the installed machine elements. In addition, the machine program must correspond to all modes of operation of the device. First of all, the software must be reliable and functional.
The design of the unit must include an LPT port.
The numerical software is connected via the LPT port.
After installing the CNC on the machine, all necessary drivers and programs are installed.

When assembling the digital unit of an engraving machine, you should remember that the quality of the work performed will certainly affect the operation of the device. Before using the device, you should carefully check the functionality of the software. After correctly setting up the entire machine and troubleshooting, the homemade device will be able to efficiently perform many functions.

DIY engraving and milling machine.

Which engine to choose?

Any engraving machines with numerical software should be equipped with an electric stepper motor. Motors from old printers are perfect for these purposes. Most of these products were equipped with a pair of suitable motors. In addition to the units themselves, you can also remove cores from printers that are suitable for our device.

It is worth noting that for full operation of a homemade engraving device, not two, but three such motors should be installed on it. Thus, you need to look for either two dot matrix printers, or buy the necessary parts on the market.

The optimal motor design should include five separate control wires, which will significantly increase the functionality of the device. An important indicator for a motor is the number of degrees per step. An important factor is the operating voltage and winding resistance. Information about these indicators will help to correctly configure the operation of the entire device.

Additional recommendations:

A nut and stud with the required dimensions can be used as a drive.
Fastenings for parts can be made using a drill and file. A bushing with a screw is perfect for these purposes.
The motor shaft is most often secured using a thick rubber wire with a good winding. Using this element, you can efficiently attach the engine to the stud.

The instructions presented above are suitable not only for making a homemade engraving machine, but also for constructing other devices with numerical software. For example, using these recommendations, you can make a machine for coordinate boring of parts. Depending on the power of the machine, it can process workpieces made of different materials (metal, wood, chipboard).

Source: https://metmastanki.ru/gravirovalnyy-stanok-svoimi-rukami