How to connect wires through a terminal block

An example of connecting wires in home wiring

July 18, 2017 at 4:11 pm
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In this article I will tell you about a real case of connecting wires in an apartment. I already have a lot of such articles, I will provide some links along the way. As usual, there will be a lot of photos, tips and instructions)

So, the story began with the fact that a client called me to his place, who was flooded by his upstairs neighbors. The house is an old two-story barracks, pre-war, the wiring is terrible. Namely - aluminum and copper in different combinations. The house and apartment were completed and rebuilt many times, and the wiring was redone accordingly.

Therefore, when water got on the electrical wiring, it led to the apartment being completely de-energized. The situation was aggravated by the fact that the apartment had just been renovated with good finishing, the walls were covered with expensive wallpaper and decorative stone. And, as always, before making repairs, the owners did not think about the fact that the wiring left much to be desired. That is, it is in unsatisfactory condition.

Consequences of connecting wires through Vago terminals

For a Russian person, as usual, until the thunder strikes. But for now it works - and okay!

So, I came that evening and restored the apartment from an electrical point of view, connecting the wires in the junction box with what I had in my arsenal - Wago of various models, PPE connectors. But I immediately said that I don’t give any guarantee - perhaps in a day everything will burn again! And all the wire connections will need to be done in a normal way.

And now, half a year later - a call! It's time! It literally burned, the photo is at the beginning of the article, and here:

Consequences of connecting wires in a box through Wago terminals.
Above is a hole in the suspended ceiling

The fact is that the machines in the entire apartment were set at 25A. More precisely, there was actually 1 machine gun, since one was on phase, the second was on zero. This is the shield that was installed throughout the entire apartment:

Electrical panel for apartment power supply

Let me remind you that you cannot do this, this bad tradition dates back to the times when round fuse plugs were installed after the meter. Why is this dangerous - if you hit zero (and here the chances are 50/50), and it seems like there is no “light” in the house, but all the electrical wiring is at phase voltage potential. Even the zero part, which was not dangerous before. Therefore, in this case there should be a two-pole circuit breaker, but not two single-pole ones.

This also happened because before there might not have actually been zero, but in reality there were two phases, with a linear voltage between them of 220V.
And if there was a zero and a phase, then no distinction was made between them. Poverty and technical backwardness I recommend my article about choosing automatic machines for an apartment.

It is clear that the connection of wires in the box with such protection burned out. Moreover, the wires that were connected through the terminals were old, oxidized, and of different sections.

It is important to remember that the terminals for connecting the wires are the last thing to blame here, so I would like to immediately warn Vago opponents - if they are used correctly, they will last for many years!
For those who are not in the know, I highly recommend the article “Examples of practical connection of wires through Wago terminals.”

Not only the box of input wires (above the meter) burned out, but also the distribution box. a box in the hallway through which power was supplied to the kitchen and bathroom. Here's what happened to her:

Burnt connection of aluminum and copper wires to each other

As you can see, a whole collection of different terminal blocks was used to connect the wires.

This photo can be characterized by the words from the song - “I made him from what was”

At the same time, the Vago terminal blocks took on bizarre forms of techno-art:

What can terminals for connecting wires turn into 1

What can terminals for connecting wires 2 turn into?

What can terminals for connecting wires 3 turn into?

What can terminals for connecting wires 4 turn into?

I repeat, these photos are not anti-advertising at all. Rather, this is a warning that you need to use Vagi correctly!

Replacing connections

So, we have two junction boxes, the wire connections in which are completely useless. What should be done in such cases? Here are the main points:

Cut out the old terminal blocks with pliers,
Strip the wires to a good metal that has not darkened due to temperature. If necessary, cut the wire even shorter,
If necessary, extend the wires so that they can be connected,
During all these manipulations, understand the train of thought of the electrician who acted here 20-40-60 years ago. In other words, understand the wiring diagram,
Install a new junction box,
Connect the wires to each other using terminal blocks.

Here's how I did the electrical wiring repair in this case.

After the meter, there were initially two 25 Ampere circuit breakers, from their output terminals I powered the following electrical panel:

Electrical panel in which the correct protection of electrical wiring from overload is installed

I don’t remember the exact connection diagram now, but that’s not important right now.

I installed the following boxes:

We install distribution boxes for connecting wires

Why two boxes instead of one? You will need to fit everything - all the wires and terminals. In addition, cutting off the burnt ends of the wires makes them shorter.

From this place, wires spread throughout the entire apartment (both copper and aluminum), and two VVG 3x2.5 cables arrive:

Connecting wires in a junction box with different terminal blocks

In this case, I use the TB2504 terminal block to connect the outlet circuits.

I’ll talk about such terminals later in this article.

For connecting lighting circuits - Vago terminals. Here's a closer look:

Connecting copper and aluminum wires using terminals

I am quite calm about such connections, and I can give a multi-year guarantee for such electrical wiring repairs.

Connecting wires with terminal blocks

Why do I like making connections with terminal blocks? The fact is that I can be quite confident in such connections, unlike the Vago terminals (see photo of what happens in this article)

Such terminals have very low contact resistance and very high reliability if used correctly. The situation is almost the same with crimp connection sleeves. But for the sleeves you need a special tool - press pliers, and for the terminal block a screwdriver is often enough.

For better installation, you need to try to ensure that the area of contact of the wire with the terminal pad is maximum, and the wire itself is as clean as possible. Ideally, a flexible stranded wire should be terminated with lugs.

I already wrote about lugs for stranded wires in an article about the practical use of Vago terminals, the link was above. In addition, stranded wires are discussed in the article about making electrical harnesses.

There are many names for such terminals, and sometimes confusion arises.

This is what this variety looks like on AliExpress.

Possible names are: a line of screw terminals, a terminal block, a terminal block, a terminal block, and, ultimately, a black carbolite terminal block.

In English, this name sounds like Screw Barrier Terminal Block. Abbreviated as Terminal Block, the first letters of these words (TB) are included in the trade name. Next come two numbers indicating the rated current, and two more numbers indicating the number of terminals in the block.

For example:

TB1512 (15Amp 12 terminals),
TB3504 (35A, 4 terminals),
TB45, TB60 - terminal blocks for 45 and 60 Amps.

Here's an example of how I used these terminal blocks to power an entire office:

Using terminal blocks to connect input wires

Using TB4504 terminal blocks to connect input wires

More details on such important connections can be found in the article about connecting three-phase voltage relays.

These are the terminals I use where there are high currents and a high cost of error. For example, in hard-to-reach places, at the entrance to homes, etc.

I see only one downside to such terminals - size. Such terminal blocks do not fit into standard distribution boxes and must be placed differently. For example, as shown in this article.

There is another connection option - through the terminals of circuit breakers, where the reliability is no less, and this method is used everywhere.

But for large currents and cross sections (more than 63A and more than 10 mm2 for copper) - a completely different story and philosophy.

by connecting wires

This is what repair guru Alexey Zemskov says about connecting wires. The video shows many subtleties. I recommend his channel, there is a lot of information there, and not only about electrical stuff!

Summary of the article - connect the wires so as to be 100% sure!

I wish everyone a good contact!

Source: https://www.elec.ru/articles/primer-soedineniya-provodov-v-domashnej-provodke/

Terminal blocks for connecting wires

Experienced electricians often joke: “electrical engineering is the science of contacts.” Indeed, when repairing wiring, the most common malfunction is lack of contact. In this article we will talk about how to correctly connect wires with a terminal block .

As a rule, this kind of problem occurs in terminals, clamps, twists and other places where conductors are connected. Deterioration of contact can manifest itself not only in “loss of light”, but also in heating of the wire insulation, which, in turn, can cause it to catch fire.

Simply twisting wires to connect them electrically is a thing of the past - today, to ensure reliable contact, special terminals are used to connect wires - terminal blocks .

Despite the fact that the modern market offers a wide range of these elements, which differ not only in price, but also in some design features, the design of the pads is the same in all cases: brass tubes with threaded holes on both sides are installed in the housing cells.

The tubes can be of different diameters, depending on what cross-section of wires the block is intended to connect to.

The scope of application of pads can be very diverse. So, for example, such a connector is simply irreplaceable when connecting a chandelier to short conductors that come out of the ceiling.

This connector is also very convenient when it is necessary to connect wires broken in the wall, because, as a rule, damaged conductors are not long enough to connect them in any other way. True, there is one “but” here:

The terminal block should only be located in the junction box - hiding it in plaster is unacceptable.

Of course, the reliability of a connection using a block is definitely lower than in the case of a soldered connection. However, such a connection is more convenient and requires much less time.

An undeniable advantage of its use is also the possibility of connecting aluminum and copper conductors. In this case, to eliminate possible oxidation, one wire is passed under each clamping screw, without allowing the wires to come into direct contact with each other.

Connecting wires with a terminal block

When choosing a connecting block, you should first of all take into account the amount of current that will pass through the connection point, as well as the required number of mounting terminals in the comb.

As a rule, the process of connecting conductors does not cause any difficulties even for amateur electricians.

Installation is really very simple: take a block with the required cell size, cut off the required number of sections, insert the cores inside the terminal cell and use screws to clamp each of the connected conductors.

The core fixing screws should be tightened with fairly moderate force. Naturally, the insulation should first be removed from the ends of the connected conductors (it is quite enough to remove about 5 mm of insulation), and the surface of the conductor itself should be thoroughly cleaned.

The big advantage of such blocks is that, depending on the installation conditions, each segment can be cut off. However, there is one nuance here: I would not recommend clamping aluminum in such a block. When tightening, the aluminum core can be pressed by the screw itself.

If aluminum conductors are connected, the screws must be tightened with extreme care. This is due to the fact that, firstly, the aluminum core can simply break, and, secondly, as is known, aluminum has a certain fluidity under the influence of significant pressure, which after some time can lead to deterioration or complete loss of contact.

And this, in turn, is fraught with overheating of the conductor and its fire. By the way, according to the standards, absolutely all connections that contain aluminum must be tightened once a year.

How to connect stranded wires in a block

We also note that it is unacceptable to clamp multi-core conductors in such a block. Stranded wire, like aluminum wire, can be clamped with a clamping screw.

The fact is that the connecting block has everything that a stranded wire does not really “like” - this is the uneven surface of the clamping screw, and point (uneven) pressure, and rotational movement.

Of course, the installation may turn out to be quite acceptable, but it may not work out - and only a very small number of cores will remain from the conductor.

The thin wires that make up such cores are quickly deformed and damaged under the action of the clamping screw of the block. As a result, the contact becomes unreliable - the connection heats up and melts.

The best solution to this problem is to use special lugs for conductors. In household electrics, sleeve lugs with plastic cuffs are most often used, which are made in different colors for ease of installation.

The process of installing tips is carried out in several stages:

1. The end of the conductor is trimmed using wire cutters (the ends of all “wires” of the core must be the same length).
2. The insulation is stripped in accordance with the length of the metal sleeve of the tip.
3. The parallelism of all wires is carefully formed (without twisting). If the wires are twisted, they are carefully straightened.
4. The tip is put on so that the bundle of wires protrudes from the sleeve by approximately 0.5-1 mm. In this case, make sure that the cuff covers the edge of the insulating coating of the conductor.
5. Next, using special press pliers, the tip is crimped (if this tool is not available, crimping can be done using ordinary pliers).
6. After this, the conductor with the installed tip is inserted into the terminal connector and secured with a clamping screw.

Blocks with a cover for connecting wires

Separately, it is necessary to remember the terminal blocks, made of high-strength black plastic. The main advantage of such a connector is that it clamps the conductor with a plate rather than directly with a screw.

Due to this design, it is possible to reliably connect not only aluminum, but also multi-core conductors. In addition, such pads are also distinguished by a higher permissible operating current (you can find pads designed for currents up to 40A).

The only disadvantage of such pads is that they cannot be cut or separated.

The main disadvantage of this method of connecting wires is that most of the terminal blocks sold are of very poor quality - unreliable and short-lived.

Another problem is that it is extremely difficult to distinguish a fake from a normal connector and is only possible during the direct installation process.

That is why most truly professional electricians choose only terminals for connecting wires from time-tested manufacturers, for example, such as: “Verit”, “Tridonic”, “ABB”, “LeGrand”.

Similar materials on the site:

Twist caps
Application of Heat Shrink Tube

Source: https://electricvdome.ru/instrument-electrica/klemmnie-kolodki.html

Wago terminal blocks. How to use it correctly

Packaging of Vago terminals

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I have written more than once about Vago terminals and clamps. Here is my main reference and review article on this topic. I decided to add examples of use and highlight them in a separate article, since I have accumulated a lot of photographs.

I will describe in detail the practical application of these terminal blocks, the pros and cons of each specific case.

I foresee that the topic is very controversial, I won’t be able to explain everything, so I accept criticism and exchange of experience in the comments.

To start -

Basic rules for using Vago

1. For lighting and other circuits limited in current to 10A, the terminals are excellent; you don’t need to know any subtleties. Connected - and let's go!

2. If the current is from 10 to 20 A, you need to think about the cleanliness of the surface of the wires. Moreover, the current must really be limited by the corresponding circuit breaker (10, 13, 16, 20 A), and the wire must have a cross-section of 1.5 or 2.5 mm². Otherwise it might look something like this:

The Vago 773 terminal block with the paste burned out because... the old aluminum wire was not stripped

3. At currents of 25 A or more, I would limit the use of Vago by moving on to crimping, welding or soldering wires. Although, for quick repairs of home electrical wiring, there are no better or more convenient methods than Vago.

How to use Wago 773 terminals at high currents

If I need reliable operation of the Vago 773 connecting terminals at maximum currents (up to 25A), I recommend using the method - strip the wires by 20-30 mm, connect them using the connecting terminal as usual, and twist and insulate the remaining bare parts.

Strengthening Wago 773. Insert the wires

Strengthening Wago. Now we twist it. You can rest assured about contact.

We isolate and quietly seal the contact, its reliability has increased many times over.

Attention! All connection points must be accessible!

Examples of connecting Vago 222 clamps

To begin with, how to install Vago terminals incorrectly, I wrote about this above in the first part of the article.

How NOT to connect Vago clamps. Or: How to beautifully arrange a short circuit using Vago 222 terminal blocks.

How to use Vago 222 terminals correctly

The main thing is to understand that one terminal block is one electrical contact.

How to properly connect Vago 222 clamps

How to properly connect Vago_larger clamps

Now let’s move on from general cases to an analysis of the practical application of these wonderful terminal blocks.

Example 1. How to use Wago 222 terminal blocks

The example shows how easy it is to put things in order in a control panel with automatic machines, where it is a mess, very crowded, there are different wires, and you need to connect more. There is no photo of what was originally, but it may be good. I will consider both the pros and cons.

In the utility room, where everything is made with corrugation, you need to install and connect an additional plastic panel with 4 circuit breakers. Moreover, it must be connected to the existing panel, minimally interfering with it.

It’s correct to say “plastic modular housing”, but I say “shield”, it’s simpler and clearer.

Here is the old panel to which you will connect.

Old electrical panel assembled

What is the main problem with such shields (pictured)? Despite the fact that it is positioned as a housing for 4 circuit breakers (4 modules), 4 circuit breakers fit into it with great difficulty. After all, you still need to connect zeros and grounds. And these are two more terminal blocks. Therefore, you should always leave approximately 20-30% of free space in the shield as a reserve.

The wires of zeros and grounds were connected to plastic terminal blocks with a screw (Lego type), without lugs. And where should I go with my rigid single-core VVG 3x2.5?

Fortunately, German engineers came up with universal clamps Wago 222 , which helped me out. This is how I installed the connections.

An old shield with the cover removed. The wires are connected through Vago clamps

Participating in the connection: multi-core PVA wires with a cross-section of 2.5 (input from the top) and 1.5 mm and single-core VVG 2.5 mm (this goes to my panel, bottom left). If there is another way to connect in this situation, write in the comments.

My shield is installed below, and the connections in it now look like this:

New electrical panel with connections via Wago clamps

Please note, this is important - I chose a panel with 6 modules to install 4 machine modules. There are 3 reasons for this:

Space for laying wires, you can leave a small margin;
There is somewhere to place the clamps (terminals), you can put the terminals on a DIN rail;
For the future, if you need to connect another consumer (not two!), there will be somewhere to install an additional machine.

Close the shield.

New shield assembled. Room sockets, utility room sockets, lighting, boiler.

This is what both shields look like. All the work on installing the panel, automatic devices, connecting wires, laying 4 cables in three corrugations took no more than an hour.

Result - both shields are assembled

The main thing is that the current is limited by the machine to 25 A, the wires are all copper and new, heating will be minimal.

The disadvantage of using Wago 222 connecting terminals this way is that if there is a possible overcurrent, the terminals may begin to melt. Therefore, for peace of mind, it is better to reduce the ratings of circuit breakers.

Example 2: Using Wago terminals to repair electrical wiring

The following example shows how to quickly repair electrical wiring that has been broken with a literal axe. The man tried to twist something himself, set up a short circuit in the house, and then called me:

Quick repair of wiring to an outlet. This is what we have today (C)

Here's how I carried out a quick electrical wiring repair using Wago 773 connecting terminals:

Quick repair of wiring to an outlet using Vago disposable terminals

The phase is wrapped with black electrical tape. Then you need to turn off the electricity, carefully hollow out a place for new connections, and plaster over the whole mess. It is better to insulate the places where the wires enter the terminals with electrical tape before doing this.

How to install a socket in such socket boxes is described in detail in my articles about how to reliably install a socket here and here. Be sure to read!

Example 3. Repair of distribution unit

In this (I don’t dare call it a box) This box of wires has everything - the input from the entrance (wires thinner than one and a half rubles, turning into aluminum, turning into a ball-and-socket screw with single-layer insulation, and rigid wires, and flexible wires, and copper, and luminium.

How did it work? Don't know. The owner called me when he himself caused a short circuit, and the floor of the apartment was left without voltage. At the same time, the entrance Soviet machine gun 25A did not work, which is natural.

I temporarily restored the power (the wires were burned out) by using two Vagos (222 and 773, can be seen at the top of the photo):

Repair of old aluminum electrical wiring. The worst thing is that people lived with this for many years, it was simply covered with plaster, and the machine was set to 25A!

A couple of days later I came again, first threw out everything unnecessary, and figured out what came from where and where. I also threw out the wires from the entrance, I will lay new ones later:

Repair of old aluminum electrical wiring. On the left there are wires - light for the toilet and power supply for the entire apartment. Down – toilet and bathroom switch. On the right is the bathroom light and kitchen power.

Now, using pieces of hard copper wire and Vago terminal blocks for different numbers and different types of wires, I assemble a circuit:

Repair of old aluminum electrical wiring. The VVG3x2.5 cable from the entrance comes from below. Wago 222, Wago 773 with and without paste were used.

Here's what we ended up with:

Repair of old aluminum electrical wiring. Vago helps out great!

Of course, if you do everything wisely, you need to completely change the wiring in the entire apartment. But such a task was not before me.

I am calm about my work and this apartment, especially considering that it is now powered through a 16A circuit breaker. And the most powerful consumers are the washing machine and refrigerator.

Example 4. Wago terminal blocks: how to use when installing a new junction box

I’ll give you an example of how I make connections in a distribution box when installing new electrical wiring.

Here's a cheap option. This is the hallway. Through a 20A machine, a cable with wires with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² comes into the box, and diverges into 1 socket (2.5 mm²), lighting and a bell (1.5 mm²).

Initially, after the plasterers, we have this:

Connecting wires in a new junction box. Let's sign the wires. On the left, a VVG2x1.5 cable for the bell sticks out of the wall. Guess through which terminals I will connect it)?

We strip the wires and determine where we have what. As usual - white phase, blue zero, yellow-green - ground. For switches - white phase, blue first key, yellow-green - second.

Connecting wires in a new junction box. wires are stripped, targets are identified

Connecting wires in a new junction box. The stripped wires are ready for connection.

3-5 minutes - and you're done:

Connecting wires in a new junction box via Vago 773

Close the box with a lid

Now you can plaster and paint or wallpaper. It is important that there must be access to the box, or at least its location must be known. Who knows what could happen in 20-30 years?

Don't forget to check everything!

5. Another example of using Wago 773

Below is a photo showing the use of Wago terminal blocks when disconnecting wires in a junction box.

Application of Vago terminal blocks. Another example

What can you say about this photo?

1. The wire used has a cross-section of 1.5mm2. This means that the circuit breaker through which this box is powered must have a current of 16A, or better yet, 13A.

Wago 773-302 terminal block with paste is adapted for connecting the lamp , which actually holds more current than the orange terminal blocks 773-324 , through which power goes to the sockets. It's better the other way around, if possible.

3. It is better to separate power outlet lines and lighting lines, since currents of different magnitudes flow in them (the difference is an order of magnitude). And accordingly, different circuit breakers for different currents. Another advantage of this connection is that if the machine breaks due to an overload or a short circuit in the socket, the light in the room will remain on.

6. Connecting a call button

The picture is short aluminum, but we need to install a new button for the bell.

We hollow out a recess into which two new small-sized terminal blocks Wago 2273-242 are placed. To them - pieces of one and a half copper.

Application of new small-sized terminal blocks Wago

Application of stranded wires

As I already said in the articles, stranded flexible wires are connected through Wago 222 terminals with a lever. However, flexible wires can also be connected through disposable 773. To do this, you need to use tips:

Flexible wire with lugs. The two tips on the right are not crimped

The tips are crimped using a special tool; pliers are not enough:

Tips for wires. Crimping in action

After this, you can use flexible wires on the same basis as rigid wires using one type of Wago clamp. For example, like in this photo:

Flexible wire into disposable Wago 773 through lugs

Another bonus is the tool and tips.

Crimping pliers, popularly known as crimping tips

Who doesn’t like IEK, you can use the branded one from Wago

Tips are sold in different sizes

They have different colors for convenience. May vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

And they can be stored in this case

Download Wago catalog

Below you can download the Wago catalog, which shows different types of terminal blocks and application examples. Beautiful and interesting, I recommend looking through it. As usual, everything on my blog can be downloaded for free.

Our terminal blocks, which are discussed in the article, are on pages 105-107.

Source: https://SamElectric.ru/elektrika/klemmy-wago-primery-prakticheskogo-primeneniya.html

Terminals or twisting: comparing the pros and cons

There are fierce debates among electricians about which wire connection is better: a terminal or a twist? Old-school specialists will say that there is nothing better than good twisting, and modern electricians will beat themselves in the chest, convincing them that they need to connect wires only with Wago, KBM or bolt terminal blocks. Who is right? Let's plunge into this confrontation and draw our own conclusions.

What does the PUE say?

To begin with, you should turn to the PUE and figure out what is generally permissible for connecting wires. In PUE P2.1.

21 says: “The connection, branching and termination of wires and cables must be made by crimping, welding, soldering or clamping in accordance with current instructions.”

As you can see, the PUE does not say anything about the fact that the wires can be connected with ordinary twists. However, twists have been established in our lives for so long and so closely that we simply cannot ignore them.

Classification of wire connections

The following products are most often used to connect cores (sleeves are not considered in this context):

Twisting.
Screw terminal block.
PPE.
Self-clamping terminal block (Wago, Weidmüller, etc.).
Construction and installation terminal KBM.

Each of the connecting elements has its own insulation, except for ordinary twisting, for which you will need heat shrink or electrical tape. To understand which connector conducts current best and therefore heats up less, you need to measure its resistance.

Testing the connection resistance

The test was carried out using a Micromilliohmmeter IKS-1A device. It is designed to determine the electrical resistance of bolted and terminal connectors.

For each connector, pieces of wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm2, each 3.5 cm long, were taken. After this, the device was connected to the two ends of the conductor and a current of 1.2 A was passed through it. Here are the readings:

Screw terminal block - 40 μOhm.
PPE - 68 µOhm.
Twisting - 302 μOhm.
Wago flat spring clamp - 458 µOhm.
Construction and installation terminal KBM - 654 μOhm.

In the tests, the screw terminal block performed best. The twist, oddly enough, surpassed Wago and KBM. However, the resistance reading alone is not enough to decide which type of connection is best for wiring. After all, a lot depends on the contact area, and over time, the joint can become clogged with dust and dirt, which will worsen the contact. Let's take a closer look at each type separately.

Twist

This is the most common type of connection that can be made without special tools and even with your fingers (not recommended). Since conventional twisting is characterized by a rather unreliable connection, soldering or welding of an already twisted connector is additionally used.

Pros of twists:

Cheap connection . For twisting, two wires and insulating material (insulating tape or cambric) are enough.
Large contact area . The larger the area of conductors in contact, the greater the power (current load) they are able to conduct. The twists can be made of any size, so the contact area will always be sufficient.
Maintenance free.
Can connect single-wire and multi-wire conductors.

Disadvantages of twists:

Low moisture resistance . It is not recommended to use in damp rooms, as well as in wooden cottages.
Additional insulation required . Unlike various terminal connections, twisting requires additional insulation.
Aluminum and copper cannot be combined.
High duration of the technological process . Soldering and welding contacts takes a lot of time.
Additional equipment required . To weld contacts, you will need a welding machine with a low current. For example, the inexpensive Wert SWI model with argon-arc welding mode is suitable for high-quality welded strands.

Twisting without soldering or welding is usually used when installing temporary buildings, which will then have to be removed.

Screw terminal block

A screw terminal block is a metal tubular connector with screws, encased in a plastic housing. Two wires are inserted into the terminal block and tightly clamped with screws.

Advantages of a screw terminal block:

Excellent contact . Thanks to the high clamping force of the screw, good contact is created in the connection, which leads to lower resistance and, as a result, better electrical conductivity.
Availability of insulation . The current-carrying part is covered in plastic insulation, so no additional insulation is required.
Inexpensive. Compared to self-clamping terminal blocks, screw terminal blocks are an order of magnitude cheaper, so with a large volume of connections, for example, to lighting groups, they will allow you to save a lot of money.

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Disadvantages of screw terminal blocks:

Need for maintenance . At least once a year it is necessary to tighten the bolts to ensure reliable contact. This factor does not make it possible to tightly sew terminal blocks under drywall or plaster.
Difficulty in using stranded wires . Their use is only possible with additional crimping with brass tips.

Screw terminal blocks are mostly suitable for electrical control rooms, where there is always access for repairs and inspections.

PPE

The self-insulating clamp is a regular plastic cap with a spring inside. It is enough to place two wires there and twist them with a cap. You can call it one of the types of twisting, but with existing insulation.

Pros of PPE:

Cheap connection . Caps are cheaper than other connectors, so if you have a large number of twists, you can save a lot of money. On average, a pack of 50 caps can be purchased for 90 - 100 rubles.
Easy installation . Their installation does not require special skills or a lot of time - they are installed in literally 1 minute.
Non-flammable material . The cap material does not burn, so the possibility of spontaneous combustion of the connector is eliminated.
A large number of colors. This allows different colors to separate the phases and the grounding conductor.

Disadvantages of PPE:

Low insulating properties . Compared to terminal connectors, PPE has worse insulating properties.
Do not connect wires of different metals . To avoid the formation of a galvanic couple, it is not recommended to connect aluminum and copper conductors.

So, PPE is suitable for connecting wires in distribution boxes for small current loads, for example, for organizing lighting.

For heavy loads or for connecting aluminum and copper wires, it is better to choose terminal connectors.

Construction and installation clamps

The most popular are Wago flat spring terminal clamps. They consist of a terminal block, a pressure spring and keys. The cores are inserted into the block and pressed using keys. The insulation is made of polyamide.

Advantages of flat spring clamps:

Connection of several cores . You can connect several cores at the same time, which is very convenient when creating wiring in a junction box.
Connection of conductors from different metals . Using Wago you can connect aluminum and copper conductors. Thanks to this, such terminal clamps are suitable for wiring in old houses where aluminum wiring is still used.
Fixation of single-wire and multi-wire conductors . You can combine connections of cores of different designs.
Connection speed . Installing a clamp takes less time than when organizing twisting or installing a screw terminal block.
Small sizes. Due to their small dimensions, the terminal blocks fit comfortably into the box.
Connector for indicator screwdriver. Using the hole, you can check the presence of voltage in the wire (or find the phase). A striking example of such a screwdriver is STANLEY 220-250 V

Disadvantages of flat spring clamps:

High price . On average, one clamp costs from 15 to 50 rubles, depending on the modification and cross-section of the wire for which it is intended. This is approximately 25 times more expensive than PPE and 10 times more expensive than screw terminal blocks.
Low quality analogues . Wago and Weidmüller are high quality German clamps. However, there are many Russian and Chinese analogues (counterfeits) on the market, the insulation of which can withstand less load and is susceptible to burning. For this reason, there is a risk of getting a bad contact on the line.

Wago flat spring clamps are suitable for both lighting and all wiring in the house. They are reliable and durable.

Some of the models are reusable.

Another type of construction and installation clamps are KBM. The principle of their operation is similar to Wago, with the only difference in design. They are also cheaper than their German counterparts, which makes them very popular among domestic electricians. KBMs do not require additional equipment for installation and provide good “clean” contact.

To summarize: which connection should you choose?

Twists should be used if:

You are wiring in a temporary structure, such as a shed or outbuilding.
You have an inverter welding machine or a soldering iron for high-quality connection of twisted wires.
Do you want to save on components?

Terminal blocks should be used if:

You need to connect aluminum and copper wires, for example, in an old house or country house where there is aluminum wiring.
Speed is important to you and you don't want to waste time welding or soldering.
It is necessary to “sew up” the connected wires under drywall or plaster (does not apply to screw terminal blocks).
You want to have access to the contact without the need to disassemble the insulation (to check the presence of voltage on the phase).
You're willing to spend the money and get quality connections that you won't need to pay attention to for years to come.

Source: https://ichip.ru/sovety/remont/klemmy-ili-skrutka-sravnivaem-za-i-protiv-639642

Terminal block for connecting wires - electrician tips - Electro Genius

Simply twisting wires to connect them electrically is a thing of the past - today, to ensure reliable contact, special terminals are used to connect wires - terminal blocks .

Despite the fact that the modern market offers a wide range of these elements, which differ not only in price, but also in some design features, the design of the pads is the same in all cases: brass tubes with threaded holes on both sides are installed in the housing cells.

The tubes can be of different diameters, depending on what cross-section of wires the block is intended to connect to.

The scope of application of pads can be very diverse. So, for example, such a connector is simply irreplaceable when connecting a chandelier to short conductors that come out of the ceiling.

This connector is also very convenient when it is necessary to connect wires broken in the wall, because, as a rule, damaged conductors are not long enough to connect them in any other way. True, there is one “but” here:

The terminal block should only be located in the junction box - hiding it in plaster is unacceptable.

Of course, the reliability of a connection using a block is definitely lower than in the case of a soldered connection. However, such a connection is more convenient and requires much less time.

How to connect copper and aluminum wire

In residential buildings that were built in Soviet times, electrical wiring was carried out with aluminum wires. Professional electricians prefer to make a modern household network with copper wires.

Therefore, whether we like it or not, we often have to face the problem of how to connect copper and aluminum wire. Don’t listen to those who tell you that you absolutely can’t do this.

Of course, not all methods are suitable for this case, however, connecting electrical aluminum and copper wires is a completely solvable task. The main thing is to do everything correctly.

These two metals have different chemical properties, which affects the quality of their connection. But there were smart heads who figured out how to connect two conductors, while eliminating direct contact between them.

We will look at all existing options for how you can connect copper and aluminum wires, but first, let's figure out why this cannot be done with ordinary twisting and what is the reason for this incompatibility?

Reasons for incompatibility

The main reasons for the undesirable connection between these two metals lies in the aluminum wire.

the result of twisting copper and aluminum is overheating of the connection, melting of the insulation, the possibility of fire

There are three reasons, but they all lead to the same result - over time, the contact connection of the wires weakens, begins to overheat, the insulation melts and a short circuit occurs.

Aluminum wire has the ability to oxidize when exposed to moisture in the air. This happens much faster when in contact with copper. The oxide layer has a resistivity value greater than that of the aluminum metal itself, which leads to excessive heating of the conductor.
Compared to copper conductor, aluminum is softer and has lower electrical conductivity, due to which it heats up more. During operation, the conductors heat up and cool down many times, resulting in several cycles of expansion and contraction. But aluminum and copper have a large difference in the magnitude of linear expansion, so a change in temperature leads to a weakening of the contact connection, and weak contact is always the cause of strong heating.
The third reason is that copper and aluminum are galvanically incompatible. If you twist them, then when an electric current passes through such a unit, even with minimal humidity, a chemical electrolysis reaction will occur. This, in turn, causes corrosion, as a result of which the contact connection is again broken, and as a result, heating, melting of the insulation, short circuit, and fire.

Bolted connection

Bolted connection of aluminum wires to copper is considered the most affordable, simple, fast and reliable. To get started you will need a bolt, a nut, some steel washers and a wrench.

Of course, it is unlikely that you will be able to use this method to connect wires in an apartment junction box, because now they are produced in miniature sizes, and the resulting electrical unit will be very bulky.

But if there are still Soviet-era boxes in your house or when you need to make a connection in a distribution panel, then this bolted method is best suited.

In general, it is considered an ideal option when it is necessary to connect completely incompatible conductors - with different cross-sections, made of different materials, multi-core with single-core.

It is important to know that using the bolt method you can connect more than two conductors (their number depends on how long the bolt is long enough).

You will need to do the following:

Strip each connected wire or cable from the insulating layer by 2-2.5 cm.
From the stripped ends, form rings according to the diameter of the bolt so that they can easily be put on it.
Now take the bolt, put a washer on it, then a ring of copper conductor, again a washer, a ring of aluminum conductor, a washer and tighten everything securely with a nut.
Insulate the connection using insulating tape.

The most important thing is not to forget to place an intermediate washer between the aluminum and copper wires. If you will connect several different conductors, then you do not need to place an intermediate washer between the cores of the same metal.

Another advantage of this connection is that it is detachable. At any time you can unwind it and, if necessary, connect additional wires.

How to properly bolt a wire connection is shown in detail in this video:

Walnut clip

Another good way to connect copper and aluminum wires is to use nut clamps. It is more correct to call this device a branch compressor. It was already the electricians who nicknamed it “the nut” because of its external resemblance.

It is a dielectric polycarbonate housing, inside of which there is a metal core (or core). The core is two dies, each of which has a groove for a certain cross-section of the conductor, and an intermediate plate, all of which are connected to each other with bolts.

Such clamps are sold in any electrical goods store; they have different types, which depend on the cross-section of the wires being connected. The disadvantage of such a device is that it is not sealed, that is, there is the possibility of moisture, dust and even small debris getting in. For reliability and quality of connection, it is better to wrap the “nut” with insulating tape on top.

The process of connecting wires using this compression is as follows:

Disassemble the compression housing; to do this, pry up and remove the retaining rings using a thin screwdriver.
On the wires to be connected, strip the insulating layer to the length of the dies.
Unscrew the fixing bolts and insert the exposed conductors into the die grooves.
Tighten the bolts, position the die in the compression housing.
Close the housing and install the retaining rings.

A practical example of using a nut clamp is shown in this video:

Terminal block

A cheap and simple solution to the question of how to connect aluminum wires to copper wires is the use of terminal blocks. Buying them now is not a problem at all; moreover, you can buy not a whole section, but ask the seller to cut off the required number of cells. Terminal blocks are sold in different sizes, depending on the cross-section of the conductors connected to them.

What is such a block? This is a transparent polyethylene frame designed for several cells at once. Inside each cell there is a brass tubular sleeve. From opposite sides, the ends of the wires to be connected must be inserted into this sleeve and clamped with two screws.

The use of terminal blocks is very convenient because you can always cut off exactly as many cells from it as there are pairs of wires that need to be connected, for example, in one junction box.

Using the terminal blocks is very simple:

Unscrew one clamping screw, thereby freeing one side of the sleeve for the conductor to pass into it.
On the cores of the aluminum wire, strip the insulation to a length of 5 mm. Insert it into the terminal, tighten the screw, thereby pressing the conductor to the sleeve. The screw should be tightened firmly, but do not force it too hard, so as not to break the core.
Do the same operations with the copper wire, inserting it into the sleeve from the opposite side.

Why do you have to do everything one by one? You can immediately unscrew two screws, insert the wires and tighten them. This is done to ensure that the copper and aluminum wires do not touch each other inside the brass sleeve.

As you can see, the advantages of terminal blocks are their ease and speed of use. This connection method is a detachable one; if necessary, you can remove one conductor and replace it with another.

Terminal blocks are not entirely suitable for connecting stranded conductors. In order to do this, you must first use ferrules that will crimp the bundle of cores.

There is one more feature in the use of terminal blocks. Under screw pressure at room temperature, aluminum can flow. Therefore, periodic inspection of the terminal and tightening of the contact connection where the aluminum wire is fixed will be required. If this is neglected, the aluminum conductor in the terminal block will become loose, the contact will weaken, begin to heat up and spark, which may result in a fire.

How to connect wires using a terminal block is shown in this video:

Self-clamping terminals

It is even faster and easier to connect aluminum and copper conductors using self-clamping terminals.

The stripped conductors must be inserted into the terminal holes until they stop. There they will be automatically fixed with the help of pressure plates (it will firmly press the conductor to the tinned busbar). Thanks to the transparent housing of the terminal block, you can check whether the core has fully entered the terminal. The disadvantage of such devices is that they are disposable.

If you want a reusable clamp, use lever terminals. The lever rises and releases the entrance to the hole into which the stripped core must be inserted. After which the lever is lowered back, thereby fixing the conductor in the terminal. This connection is detachable; if necessary, the lever is raised and the wire is removed from the terminal.

Self-clamping terminals “WAGO” have proven themselves best in the electrical goods market. The manufacturer produces a special series of terminals that contain “Alu-plus” contact paste.

This substance protects the contact junction between aluminum and copper from the manifestation of electrolytic corrosion processes. You can distinguish these terminals by the special marking on the packaging “Al Cu”.

THIS IS INTERESTING: Why heat treatment of steel is needed

Using such terminals is also extremely simple.

The clamp itself indicates how long the insulating layer of the conductor needs to be stripped.

The advantages and disadvantages of using WAGO terminal blocks are described in this video:

Twist connection

Twisting of copper and aluminum wires is not recommended. If you cannot do without this, then first you should tin the copper conductor, that is, cover it with lead-tin solder. This way you will eliminate the possibility of direct interaction between aluminum and copper.

Do not forget that aluminum is very soft and brittle and can break even under minor loads, so twist it very carefully. Do not forget to properly insulate the connection; in this case, it is best to use heat-shrinkable tubing.

We tried to tell you in detail whether it is possible to connect wires made of aluminum and copper, as well as how to do this efficiently and reliably. Choose the most suitable method for yourself, depending on where this connection will be switched and operated.

Source: https://YaElectrik.ru/elektroprovodka/kak-soedinit-mednyj-i-alyuminievyj-provod

Connecting wires using clamps

Connecting wires using clamps is a very common method, approved by the PUE and other regulatory documents.

The term “clamps” hides a whole group of different products, each of which has both advantages and disadvantages.

Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Devices for connecting wires without soldering

The most reliable methods of connecting wires are welding and soldering. But welding requires a welding machine, and not everyone has one. For soldering you need a more common tool - a soldering iron.

Soldering wires in power circuits, despite the approval of this method by the Electrical Code, is not recommended: low-melting lead-tin solder softens when overloaded, causing contact to deteriorate.

At the current high loads, loosening the contact will lead to significant heating (transition resistance increases) and, as a result, to a fire. Soldering is allowed only by the PUE. Document SNiP 3.05.06-85 “Electrical devices” does not mention it among the permitted methods.

And GOST R directly indicates the undesirability of using such connections in power circuits (this does not apply to switching circuits), except in cases where overloads and mechanical stress are guaranteed to be excluded (lead-tin solder is quite soft).

In order to simplify the installation of electrical systems, various connectors, generally referred to as clamps, have been developed. They tightly fix the connected conductors to each other or to an intermediate conductive element, ensuring high-quality electrical contact.

How wires are connected using different types of clamps is described below.

Screw terminal blocks and distribution boxes

A terminal block or terminal block is a compact product made of flame-retardant plastic with two or more holes that have a common brass insert. In a screw terminal, the wire is secured in the hole by tightening the screw.

In this case, connectors are divided into two types:

without pressure plate . The end of the screw rests directly on the conductor. This mechanism is implemented in cheap terminal blocks and it is not very good: the quality of the contact is low, and the connection often burns out. There is a high probability of damage to the core due to rotation of the screw;
with pressure plate . It is located between the screw and the conductor. The price of such terminal blocks is slightly higher, but they provide a more reliable connection.

Advantages of terminal blocks in general:

no special tools required;
you can connect aluminum and copper cables (the metals are separated by a “neutral” brass insert);
It is possible to connect wires of different sections.

The advantage of screw terminals is that the user can control the clamping force, and therefore the quality of contact. Multi-wire conductors cannot be fixed in the terminal: the contact will be unreliable, and in addition there is a risk of breaking individual wires. A special tip is first installed on such a conductor by crimping.

Since a certain time, terminal blocks began to be built into distribution boxes. Such a box is more expensive than a regular one, consisting only of a body and a lid, but connecting wires in it is much easier. Because of this, such products have gained popularity among inexperienced users.

Self-clamping terminal blocks and splitters

In a self-clamping terminal block, the contact plates are made in the form of a spring that blocks the conductor inserted into the connector. This mechanism significantly speeds up installation.

The self-clamping terminal block has two disadvantages:

the user does not control the pressing force a. If you come across a terminal block with a defective or damaged spring, it will be impossible to track this at the installation stage;
re-use of the terminal block is excluded . In principle, it is possible to pull the wire out of the self-clamping grip (to do this, turn it when removing it), but the spring will most likely be damaged. There is a possibility that when used again, it will not provide proper contact, which is why such terminal blocks are considered disposable.

Terminal blocks with more than two connectors are called splitters. From a product in a polyethylene case, you can cut a fragment with the required number of connectors.

Connecting sleeves

The sleeve is a thin-walled tube, fixed by crimping (squeezing), installed as follows:

After stripping, a lubricant is applied to the connected conductors: for aluminum - quartz-vaseline paste, for copper - technical petroleum jelly. Lubrication prevents damage to the cores during crimping, and in the case of aluminum, it also prevents oxidation. The cores are inserted into the sleeve from both sides;
compress the sleeve with a special tool: manual press pliers or a hydraulic press. The connector is crimped with pliers in several places, the press compresses the sleeve in one go;
insulate the sleeve with electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing.

The connecting sleeves differ:

diameter _ The size must correspond to the cross-section of the cores being connected; in case of an error, the contact will be of poor quality;
material _ There are three varieties: aluminum, grade GA (for connecting aluminum cores), copper - GM (for copper), combined - GAM (half made of copper, the other half made of aluminum, separated by a neutral insert). Used to connect aluminum and copper conductors.

Wire crimping sleeves

The sleeve is the only clamp capable of providing high-quality contact under vibration conditions. That’s why this connector is used, for example, in automotive wiring. In a car, while the engine is running, the spring or threaded clamp would gradually loosen.

Walnut clamps

“Nut” is the common name for a branch clamp, due to its unique shape. The purpose of the product is to provide a branch cable from the main cable without breaking the latter. With the help of “nuts”, for example, they organize a branch into the apartment from the access cable riser.

Clamp Installation:

remove the insulation from the core of the main cable at the site of the future branch. The end of the branch cable core is also stripped;
Having removed the clamps (pry them off with a thin screwdriver), divide the “nut” body into 2 halves;
The core of the main cable is placed in the groove on one plate, and the core of the connected cable is placed in the other;
tighten the plates with 4 screws. The grooves in them are arranged crosswise; between the plates there is a brass die;
Assemble the clamp body so that the main cable is in the paired holes, and the branch cable is in the unpaired holes.

In walnut, the connected cores are separated by a brass insert, so they can be made of different materials.

Bolted

The simplest and cheapest, use it as follows:

the stripped wires are twisted into a ring;
put a washer on a screw or bolt of small diameter;
then put on the wires twisted into a ring (the direction of twisting should correspond to the rotation of the nut);
put on another washer and tighten the connection with a nut.

When connecting an aluminum and copper core, a galvanized washer is placed between them.

Piercing clamps

Like nuts, they are intended for branching, but have a number of advantages:

removal of insulation and stripping of cores is not required;
the connection is sealed and therefore can be used outdoors (the “nut” has a minimum dust and moisture protection class of IP20);
can be connected to a live wire.

The piercing clamp has a plate with teeth that pierce the insulation and penetrate the core material. These products are available in a variety of designs.

Piercing clamps for SIP

To connect the SIP wire, for example, clamps are used that are secured by tightening the bolt with the shear head. That is, reuse of the product is not provided.

For indoor connection to wires with a cross-section of up to 6 square meters. mm, clamps of the OB brand are produced. You don't need any additional tools to install them - you just snap them on by hand.

Wedge clamp

It is used not for connecting wires, but for fixing the SIP cable on a pole. The clamp is attached to the support with a bracket, then inserted into the SIP groove and secured with wedges.

Connection and termination of wires and cables

How to use Wago clamps?

Wago brand clamps are a variety of terminal blocks that, due to their high quality and ease of use, have become very popular among non-professionals. Available types:

self-clamping . As mentioned above, it is enough to insert the stripped core into the spring contact connector;
lever _ A more expensive variety that can be used many times. The wire is clamped or released by turning a special lever to the appropriate position.

There are reusable self-clamping terminal blocks, the spring of which is moved away with an awl or a thin screwdriver inserted into a small hole.

Connecting wires using Wago clamps is extremely simple. But you should know that during prolonged overloads, these connectors often melt. That's why many professionals avoid using them.

on this topic

About connecting wires in a car without soldering in the video:

Whatever type of clamp is used, you cannot skimp on its quality. Under current loads, a connection with poor contact heats up quite strongly, which is likely to lead to a fire. It is recommended to purchase clips in large stores rather than in markets, and give preference to well-known brands.

Source: https://1000eletric.com/soedinenie-provodov-s-pomoschyu-zazhimov/

How to connect wires through the wago terminal block? — Electro Help

It is impossible to imagine electrical installation work without the need to connect wires. Previously, twisting was used for this, at best, supplemented by soldering the resulting contact. This method, which is often used today, requires time and a certain skill.

And the connection itself turns out to be sloppy and cumbersome. A connection based on screw terminals eliminates such problems, but it is not without its drawbacks. If the screw is “undertightened” or “overtightened,” the contact becomes less reliable.

In the first case, the connection point may heat up and even cause a fire in the wiring, and in the second, there is a risk of damage to the wire and the terminal itself. Wago terminal blocks eliminate these and other similar problems.

In this article, I propose to consider the main brands of terminal blocks, their design, advantages over alternative connection methods, and, of course, how to use them in practice. Because young professionals often wonder if they bought Wago terminal blocks, how to use them?

Abroad, the most common terminal blocks for connecting wires are from Wago and are the most used method of connecting wires. Our professional electricians know about them, but use them with caution.

Many people mistakenly believe that such connectors do not create the necessary contact, especially when installing large-section wiring. Meanwhile, this progressive connection method, based on insulated spring clamps, ensures compliance with all requirements for reliability and quality during electrical installation work.

What are WAGO terminal blocks used for?

Everyone knows that during electrical installation there is often a need to connect several wires together at once. In this case, using terminal blocks to connect the wires is the best solution.

Unlike twists or solders, which are essentially permanent connections, Wago terminal blocks allow you to easily and quickly disconnect wires, change the circuit, or connect an additional circuit or device. Of course, in especially critical cases you can use soldering, but for most connections that will work under normal conditions, the use of Wago terminal blocks is quite sufficient.

As already mentioned, working with Wago terminals does not require the use of additional tools. The only thing that may be required is a special tool for stripping the insulation.

After this, the wire is simply inserted into the terminal block and fixed in it. Another important advantage of Wago terminals is that they allow you to reliably connect or extend wires made of different materials and different cross-sections.

As you know, connecting, for example, copper and aluminum conductors using conventional twisting is unacceptable. Among other things, the use of Wago terminal blocks allows you to save space in the distribution box or panel, and the connection itself is neat and reliable.

Wago terminal blocks how to use

Most often, Wago terminal blocks are used in distribution boards and boxes, as well as for connecting lighting or other equipment. They can be used to connect single-core and stranded wires. Depending on the installation location and connection requirements, terminal blocks of various series are produced.

Wago terminals are available in two versions: disposable, that is, they do not allow the wire to be removed back, and reusable, in which it is fixed by retracting a special clamp. How to use wago terminal blocks we will consider both options using the example of the two most popular series.

Wago 222 series terminal blocks are reusable. A special orange lever is used to secure the wire. It allows you to easily disconnect the contact when reconfiguring the circuit or testing the circuit.

Each conductor is inserted into a separate connector socket. The terminal block is based on a flat-spring clamp, which allows fixing conductors with a cross-section of up to 4.0 mm2.

To carry out installation using such a terminal, you should strip the insulation of the wire by about 1 cm, lift the clamp flag, insert the wire and release the clamp.

The connection is ready! Thanks to the compact size of the terminal, it can be placed anywhere, including compact boxes for switches and sockets. Moreover, this type of terminal block does not require crimping of a stranded conductor.

Wago 773 series terminals are designed for single connection and single-core conductors only. Stranded ones can also be connected, but before doing this, their tips should be crimped.

The connection is made in the same way: the wire is stripped and inserted until it stops. But, unlike the detachable one, there is no lever here, and fixation is carried out using an internal clamp that bites the wire and does not allow it to come out again.

In case of emergency, you can, by twisting and applying sufficient force, remove the wire from the terminal block. But it is strongly not recommended to do this, since this causes deformation of the fixing contact and the reliability of the subsequent connection is not guaranteed.

Benefits of WAGO products

Based on the above, we list the main advantages of Wago terminals:

1. Speed of installation. Stripping the insulation and fixing the wire in the clamp takes literally a few seconds;
2. Connection using Wago terminal blocks, unlike twisting or crimping, does not require additional insulation;
3. The ability to connect conductors having different cross-sections and made of different materials;
4. If necessary, the connection can be easily redone. Twisting wires, especially brittle aluminum ones, does not allow this;
5. The ability to diagnose the circuit without breaking it, since the terminal blocks for connecting wires are equipped with holes for connecting indicators or other devices;
6. Accuracy of installation, ability to make connections in cramped conditions or if the accessible part of the wire is too short.

Many electricians do not use Wago terminals in their work, not wanting to incur additional costs associated with their purchase. This is especially true for reusable terminals, which are almost 2 times more expensive than permanent terminals.

At the same time, most people forget about the time that will be saved when using such products. And the well-known statement “time is money” is directly related to the work of an electrician.