7 ways to use copper wire in the country and at home
Surely many people at their dacha have a coil of copper wire lying around in the notorious box with the code name “It’s a pity to throw it away,” and maybe more than one. We tell you what and how you can make from copper wire.
The technology for making wire “as we know it” has been known since the 7th century. Wire is produced by so-called drawing - pulling metal through a hole of small diameter. In skillful hands, this material can not only become an original decorative item, but also help in the fight against late blight, and also serve as plant nutrition.
Method 1. Copper wire against late blight on tomatoes
Let us immediately warn you that the method described below is only suitable for the prevention of late blight. To treat plants affected by this insidious disease, more serious measures must be taken.
To prevent late blight in tomatoes, use the following “folk” method. Take a copper wire 1 mm thick and sand it until shiny with fine sandpaper or a knife (this must be done to remove the protective PVC sheath from the wire). Cut the peeled wire into pieces 3-4 cm long.
In order to “get” the wire of the required diameter, you can use a single-core installation wire.
It is most effective to carry out the procedure 2 weeks before planting the seedlings in the ground, but if the moment is missed, you can do it at any other time. It is not recommended to use the method within 2 weeks after planting the plant in the ground, since the seedling needs to cope with “post-transplant stress” and does not need unnecessary stress.
So, use a piece of copper wire to pierce the stem through a little below the first true leaf. Gently bend the edges of the wire down.
If the wire is too thin (less than 1 mm in diameter), first pierce the tomato stem with a needle or awl, and then insert the wire into the hole.
Pretty soon the wound on the tomato will heal, and the plant will begin to receive additional protection from late blight. It happens like this: juice continuously moves along the stem of the plant from bottom to top, and when it interacts with the wire, it is saturated with copper ions, which are subsequently transferred along with the juice to all parts of the plant. This copper “grafting” has a beneficial effect on the disease resistance of tomatoes.
Method 2. Copper wire against late blight
There is another option for using copper wire to prevent late blight of tomatoes. Its essence lies in the fact that the wire is stuck into the soil next to the plant at a distance of 40-50 mm around the bush. The advantage of this method is that it can be used immediately after planting the seedlings in the ground, since the tomato stem remains unharmed.
Method 3. Copper wire as a fruit growth stimulator
To speed up the fruiting of various crops (including tomatoes), the ringing method is used. To “ring” a plant, you need to wrap the stem of the plant with copper wire (preferably thin) at a height of 3-5 cm from the soil.
The champion among wires in terms of the amount of copper wire is the antenna cable.
It is important not to overdo it and accidentally cut the stem. This method will ensure that more nutrients are supplied to the fruits than to the roots of the plant.
Method 4. Copper wire for fruit trees
Some gardeners use copper wire to protect fruit trees (pears, apple trees, etc.) from diseases and strengthen the immune system. To do this, a small piece of wire (preferably thick) is driven into the trunk of an adult tree, and covered with garden varnish on top. The wound will heal over time, and the metal will “feed” the tree with useful microelements.
Method 5. Copper wire for gartering grapes
One of the obvious ways to use copper wire in the country is to use it to make trellises. The advantage of copper wire is that it will not break over time like rope or rust like iron wire. In addition, over time, the wire will begin to feed the grapes with microelements.
The optimal wire thickness for tying vines is 2-4 mm.
Method 6. DIY copper wire jewelry
Wire is the favorite material of many needlewomen. Of course, this material can take any shape and still “hold” it. Jewelry made from metal tubes (the prototype of modern wire) were popular back in the days of Ancient Egypt. It is better to purchase copper wire for handicrafts in a specialized store, since wire of different thicknesses is suitable for different types of products.
| Recommended copper wire diameter for different products | |
| Product | Wire diameter, mm |
| Base for a bracelet or necklace | 1-1.4 mm |
| Ring base | from 1.3 |
| Earrings (bases for earrings) | 0,8-1 |
| Pins, pins (fastening elements) | 0,6-0,8 |
| Braid | 0,4 |
| Clasp | 1,3-1,5 |
For knitting or beading, wire 0.3 mm thick is suitable.
Soft copper wire is best suited for needlework. It should be borne in mind that such wire is easier to break, so for the manufacture of larger products you need to take a stiffer wire.
Method 7. Interior items made of copper wire
From wire you can make original interior items that will look good not only in the country, but also in a city apartment. A little inspiration, patience, a coil of copper wire - and your home will be decorated with a stylish lampshade, basket, panel and other interesting things.
Decorative items for the kitchen are made from tinned wire because it does not oxidize. For other crafts, regular enameled copper wire is suitable.
Wire can be combined with other materials - it looks organically “in duet” with fabric, wood, paper, glass.
There are plenty of ways to use wire in the household, so don’t let it sit idle – put this multifunctional material to use!
Source: https://www.ogorod.ru/ru/main/useful/13478/7-sposobov-kak-ispolzovat-mednuju-provoloku-na-dache-i-doma.htm
How to twist wire correctly
Arc welding has always been considered the traditional method of connecting metal products, as the most universal and providing maximum strength.
However, in the realities of construction work, hiring a welder to construct reinforcing structures is a waste of the budget. In addition, welding is not suitable for working with prestressed reinforcement, is absolutely immobile and inconvenient for assembling products on site.
It would be a misconception to believe that welding critically changes the physicochemical properties of the reinforcement. At least this is not true for most popular brands like A500C (C - weldable), it’s just that this method is not very fast and convenient.
However, later you will see that it is more convenient to weld frame fragments at an equipped workplace, and then assemble a reinforcing structure from them. For an experienced welder, it will not be a problem to carefully grab the structural reinforcement to the working one, just as it will not be a problem to connect the shoulder straps of the reinforcement structures with an overlap of six diameters for double-sided welding and ten for one-sided welding of the seam.
And yet knitting is the fastest and most convenient way to connect reinforcement units. The strength requirements for such connections are purely symbolic: a bunch of distribution elements that are not involved in the work are performed to give the frame the correct shape and should only hold the rods in the desired position during pouring of concrete and its vibration shrinkage.
Elements of working and anchor reinforcement are fastened together in the total mass of reinforced concrete products due to friction forces. The purpose of tying these places is to provide the connected frame with the strength necessary for transportation and positioning during installation and movement of workers on the reinforcement. The second task is to maintain the alignment of the reinforcement lines.
The most suitable for knitting is considered to be hot-rolled annealed wire with a low carbon content in accordance with GOST 3282–74. The optimal thickness for tying together structural reinforcement is 1.2 mm, working and anchor reinforcement is up to 2.5 mm. Steel cord from burnt tires is well suited for knitting. You can also use carbon wire, first tempering it in a stove or fire for greater softness and ease of twisting.
It is easier to cut wire into 30–35 cm pieces using a grinder, having first wrapped the coil with tape in 2–3 places. You can even purchase spring connectors or ready-made wire for knitting with loops at the ends; working with them is a pleasure.
Nylon clamps, otherwise known as zip ties, are becoming increasingly popular. They are very durable and allow you to work at higher speeds, but for good tightening you need to use a special gun. You can also use 2 mm PET tape cut from plastic bottles, followed by heating the nodes with a gas lamp. When using plastic fasteners, they need to be wrapped around the joint in a crisscross pattern.
We suggest you read: How to properly steam a floor broom
Hand tools and work techniques
Today there are three main types of hand knitting tools, and the first of them is homemade hooks made of 6–8 mm wire. There is nothing tricky about the device, only the axis of the handle is shifted from the place where the knot is knitted by 70–100 mm, and the tip is tapered for ease of removal.
More advanced commercial products have a polished hook of the same shape, but the handle is equipped with a bearing. It is this tool that is considered the most useful in real construction conditions. The speed of working with it is maximum, the convenience is excellent, and besides, such hooks are not at all expensive.
Knitting wire with both types of hooks is extremely simple. You need to work with gloves, otherwise calluses and injuries are inevitable. We fold the piece of wire in half, then bend it from above into the opposite corners of the crosshairs of the reinforcement. At the bottom, the wire unfolds and the ends are brought to the top through the other two corners.
The loop and two tails need to be crossed with your fingers once in a random place. Then a hook is threaded into the loop, onto the edge of which the tails of the wire are bent. A few turns and the loop is tightened. If you try, take the time to practice for half an hour, experimenting with tension and knitting techniques. You'll probably want to use a cordless screwdriver with the hook clamped into the chuck.
Separately, it is worth mentioning the so-called semi-automatic hooks. They have an auger with a ratcheting mechanism inside, so you don’t need to twist the handle, just pull it towards you several times.
These expensive “toys” are not designed to perform a large amount of work; the screw groove is eaten away after three to four hundred tightened loops, and more reliable tools are very, very expensive.
And yet, if you are busy tying reinforcement, you should keep such a thing on hand in case you forget to tie it in a hard-to-reach place.
Using automatic knitting guns
Among all kinds of power tools, there are models for tying reinforcement. The principle of their operation is simple: the wire is guided along a curved groove, making two or three turns around the crosshairs of the rods. Next, the clamping collet is turned on and both tails are twisted with adjustable force so that the assembly does not break.
We suggest you read: How to properly brew a birch broom for a bath
The tool is good, despite the increased wire consumption, but has a number of disadvantages. First, the price of such an instrument fluctuates around 1000 Euros per copy. Add to this that batteries have a service life of up to five years, then it will be difficult to find such a specific replacement for them.
The pistol is also not always convenient; often they cannot fit inside the frame. Such equipment justifies itself either for large volumes of work, when up to ten tons of reinforcement are knitted per shift, or when tying thick rods with thick wire, where significant effort is required. Can be useful for bench assembly of frame modules, but MIG-MAG welding can be used just as well (inverter and wire cost about the same).
The best option would be to rent a gun for tying reinforcement, if there is a store nearby that provides such a service. The key factor will be the speed of completion of the work; if you need to complete everything in one day, then the rental price may be commensurate with this desire. You can get used to working with a pistol in a few minutes by practicing on separate sections of reinforcement.
Screed, ceiling or foundation - the intricacies of reinforcing various reinforced concrete products
Before rushing into battle, thoroughly study the concept of anchoring reinforcement. This science gives an idea of how to relate linear loads in complex-shaped reinforced concrete products by creating additional connections.
In addition to the shape of the intermediate elements, the overlap length at the connections is important; it can vary from 30 to almost 80 rod diameters, depending on the brand of reinforcement, load and purpose of the product. Do not forget about protective layers - the minimum thickness of concrete between steel reinforcement and the outer surface - these data are also strictly standardized.
For floors and slabs, at least two rows of mesh are knitted. Each intersection on rows 1 and 2 is knitted along the perimeter of the frame, and inside in a checkerboard pattern. When tying floors, do not throw the torn edges of the wire into the formwork; this is what causes rusty spots to appear on the ceilings.
We suggest you read: How to properly trim a telescopic trim
Strip and block elements with transverse load are reinforced with foam structures, where the distribution reinforcement is made of rectangular clamps encircling the outside of the working reinforcement rods.
It is more difficult with the reinforcement of columns and pillars. Most often, they involve sleeve-threaded connections, ensuring complete alignment and high-quality load transfer between the working fittings.
rmnt.ru
22.07.16
Source: https://MoiDom38.ru/pravilno-zakruchivat-provoloku/
DIY 6 mm wire patterns - Metals, equipment, instructions
Wire bending is one of the ways to give it a new shape using manual or mechanical action using special equipment.
The bending itself occurs due to the compression of the inner layer, due to which the outer layer can be stretched and bent. Such technological work is in great demand, as is equipment for manual bending.
You can create products from bent wire with your own hands.
In this case, it is advisable to choose softer plastic materials for the process so that the wire can bend easily and doing the work with your own hands does not create difficulties.
If the wire is rigid and has a large diameter, then to process it manually you need to use certain tools:
- using pliers you can create a small bend of a few mm; they are also convenient for fixing material for subsequent processing;
- You can cut the wire into separate parts with wire cutters or needle-nose pliers;
- pliers (a type of pliers) are considered one of the most convenient and versatile tools for bending wire with your own hands.
Before you start manually bending the material for the rings, it is better to create a certain template on paper and periodically check it as you work. Simple shapes can be made without templates.
For example, to create a regular rectangular clamp, it is enough to first clamp part of the wire with a bench vice, and bend the remaining piece at a right angle using pliers or a hammer.
Rules for manual bending
When performing manual wire bending work with your own hands, you should adhere to certain safety rules that can protect your hands from possible injuries:
- Before starting work, it is advisable to put on gloves made of thick, dense fabric;
- Materials should be well secured so that they do not jump out of the vice during bending;
- All machines and tools for manual work must be in good working order;
- Do not place heavy objects on the edge of the table (for example, if you hit the pliers, you can drop them on your leg and get a noticeable bruise, or even injury to your fingers);
- When working with the wire with one hand, try to keep the other away from the bend (the pliers can break off and injure your hand).
Safety rules will protect your hands, but the DIY bending process itself is still quite complex and time-consuming. You can bend products by hand only if you have certain experience and knowledge.
Special equipment helps bend wire in large volumes. Let's study it in more detail.
Processing methods
If we talk about bending wire on a large scale (in production or a specialized plant), then various methods are used to plastically deform it.
One of the most common and economical is the bay processing method.
In this case, wire rings are wound onto coils, and then they are fed to two-plane roller machines that straighten the wire.
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Afterwards, the material is processed on bending equipment (the required shape is created), at the end the wire is cut, and the entire work cycle is repeated again.
Moreover, all work is fully automated, which allows you to save time and money and use the device to create a simple curved structure with a development length of about 1000 mm.
For rolling wire with your own hands, there are special devices that consist of fixed templates of certain radii of curvature (the radius can be one or several).
The material is rolled around the created template using pressure rollers.
Basically, this technology is used to create bent products that have a small bending radius (about the same as the diameter of the wire).
The method of pushing the wire is reminiscent of the way 3-roll equipment works on a profile bending and spring-coiling machine.
The material is pushed into the device using a special wire, then it is pressed against various rollers, which makes it possible to change the bending parameters and make transitions to different radii.
This device allows you to bend various structures that have a complex configuration and large bending radii on the development - from 1000 mm or more.
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You can straighten the wire using straightening equipment or a special device. This equipment includes units consisting of rotating leveling frames or two-plane leveling blocks.
In this case, rotating frames are preferable, as they allow the material to be aligned more smoothly.
Professional equipment
If only the simplest devices (vises, pliers) are used to bend wire on their own, then for mass industrial processing of the material professional machines are used (for example, for the production of key rings or springs for handles).
A wire bending machine with one bending console is one of the simplest and makes it possible to create bent products of simple shapes. The length of the sweep in this case should not exceed 1000 mm.
Double-cantilever machines can work with a reaming length of more than 1000 mm.
The material is cut into the required pieces, then it is deformed from both ends simultaneously.
Such equipment allows you to create products with a large number of bends. Machines with only one console can no longer perform this work.
Also, on double-console machines you can make figures with closed bends.
Wire bending on so-called 3D machines is becoming more and more popular these days.
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Three-dimensional spatial bending can be done using a rotary bending console, which is controlled by an automated system.
Unfortunately, such material processing is quite expensive, so parts are mainly created using simple flat bending, and then, if necessary, individual parts are automatically welded.
Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/uzory-iz-provoloki-6-mm-svoimi-rukami/
How to temper wire at home? — Machine tools, welding, metalworking
Almost every home craftsman knows that it is possible to make a spring from almost any wire and successfully use it in everyday life. Basically, there are no problems with making the part yourself. However, sometimes situations arise in which it is necessary to either make a spring of non-standard dimensions, or give it increased strength and elasticity.
To do this, you should resort to heat treatment operations. It is quite possible to harden a spring at home. It goes without saying that a homemade part should not be used in particularly critical devices operating under increased load. For such purposes, it is recommended to use factory-made springs.
But for home use in a device operating in a lightweight mode, the technology in question is quite suitable.
Required tools and materials
In order to make and harden a wire spring with your own hands, you need:
- Steel wire. The diameter is selected based on the necessary characteristics of the future product.
- Ordinary gas burner.
- Metalworking tools: pliers, hammer, etc.
- Vise.
- Stove. This may be, if available, a special one or an ordinary household one.
Additional devices that are selected individually in accordance with the size and stiffness of the spring can facilitate the process of winding the spiral.
If the use and hardening is intended to be made from wire with a diameter of less than 2 millimeters, then it may not be preheated. It will bend without any problems without this operation. However, before starting winding, it is recommended to straighten it along its entire length and completely level it.
When using wire with a diameter of more than 2 millimeters, it should be burned before starting work. Without this operation, aligning and winding it will be problematic.
Features of the operation
- The right foundation is the key to success. In factory conditions, an alloy of non-ferrous metals (65G, 60HFA, 60S2A, 70SZA, Br. B2), alloy or carbon steel is used for production. During home production, the optimal base will be an old spring of the required diameter.
- A special furnace is best suited for annealing. If this is not available, brick or metal will do.
- For cooling after heating, it is recommended to use transformer oil. If it is not available, a spindle will do.
Sequencing
1. Before tempering the spring wire, you should check the base material and make sure that the wire used is carbon steel.
2. The annealing procedure, as mentioned earlier, can add plasticity. This will make the process of alignment and winding onto the mandrel easier. You can use a special oven or any suitable oven for this.
In everyday life, it is possible to harden in the most suitable structure (metal or brick). To do this, a regular fire is lit and then the future spring is placed in the coal. After heating the workpiece red-hot, the wire must be removed and allowed to cool naturally.
The cooled wire will be much softer and you can work with it comfortably.
3. The softened wire should be completely aligned and begin winding onto a mandrel of a suitable diameter. During the procedure, you need to control the tight arrangement of the turns to each other. To make it easier, you can use a screwdriver.
4. To impart the required elasticity, hardening will be required. Thanks to this heat treatment, the part is harder and more durable. Hardening springs involves heating them to a temperature of 830 to 870 degrees. To do this, you can use a gas burner. Earlier we talked about hardening metal at home.
It is unlikely that you will find a suitable thermometer at home that can accurately determine the temperature of a part. Therefore, you can navigate by the color of the metal. When the required temperature is reached, the workpiece will turn light red. We recommend watching a video with a detailed description of the heating temperature. After this, the spring is placed in a cooling medium (oil).
5. Afterwards, the hardened spring must be kept in a compressed state. This requires from 20 to 40 hours.
6. Finally, process and adjust to the required dimensions.
Correct implementation of such hardening will allow you to successfully use the spring in home mechanisms.
Do-it-yourself spring manufacturing and hardening technology Link to main publication
Source: https://stanki-info.com/kak-zakalit-provoloku-v-domashnih-usloviyah/
How to make a spring: step-by-step instructions and recommendations
According to experts, it is possible to produce a spring with high performance characteristics and in compliance with all necessary parameters only using special factory equipment. Nevertheless, the technological process itself is not complicated.
The question of how to make a spring at home is quite relevant. This is due to the fact that there are situations when the home craftsman may not have a spring of the required diameter at hand. In this case, you have to make it yourself. How to make a spring with your own hands? What tools are needed for this? You will find information on how to make a spring at home in this article.
What will you need for work?
Before making a spring, you need to acquire the following consumables and equipment:
- Steel wire.
- Bench vice.
- A regular gas burner.
- A mandrel on which the wire will be wound.
- Thermal or household oven.
About the wire
It is desirable that it be hardened high carbon steel. You can use special carbon and alloyed or non-ferrous alloys: 60HFA, 70S3A, 65G, 60S2A, etc. Judging by the reviews, many home craftsmen remake old unnecessary springs. This method is considered the most optimal, since such a product usually uses wire with excellent technical characteristics.
How to make a spring? What wire diameter should I choose? Experts recommend using consumables with a diameter of no more than 0.2 cm. Due to the fact that such wire bends easily, it does not require preliminary heat treatment. Before winding onto the mandrel, it is unbent and carefully aligned.
When choosing the diameter for the mandrel, you should proceed from the dimensions of the future spring. In other words, the internal cross-section of the product must be taken into account. Many craftsmen compensate for elastic deformations of the wire by selecting mandrels of obviously smaller diameter. When working with wire thicker than 0.2 cm, difficulties often arise when winding it onto the mandrel.
In this case, you will have to perform preliminary annealing.
Where should I start?
Experts recommend using wire from an old spring whose diameter does not suit the owner. The craftsman will only have to align it and wind it onto a mandrel with a cross-section of the required size. To do this, the wire must be absolutely straight. It will be much more plastic if it is processed in a special oven. If you don’t have one, any other device that can be heated with firewood will do.
According to experienced craftsmen, birch provides sufficient heat for firing. After lighting the stove, you need to wait for the wood to burn in it. Only coals should remain. You should put the old spring in them. If the product is hot enough, it will turn red. Now the spring can be moved to the side so that it cools in the air. After this procedure, the metal will become plastic and easy to work with.
After waiting until the old product has cooled down sufficiently, they begin to unwind it. Absolutely straight wire should be wound onto the mandrel. For those who do not know how to make a spring, experts recommend placing the coils close together. At this stage, the master will have to make physical effort. The mandrel is clamped in a bench vice.
The work will be much easier if you use pliers. Judging by the reviews of experienced craftsmen, very often beginners have difficulty selecting the size of the mandrel. It is possible that you will have to work not with one mandrel, but with several with different sections. The diameter for a homemade spring in this case is selected experimentally.
Hardening of the product
For those who are interested in how to make a spring themselves, experienced craftsmen also advise paying attention to its hardening. This procedure consists of heat treatment of the product in order to give it the required elasticity.
A spring that has undergone hardening becomes much harder and more durable compared to its original state. Heat treatment is performed in special furnaces at temperatures from 830 to 870 degrees. You can also cope with this work at home using a regular gas burner. Since there are usually no temperature sensors in such devices, the home craftsman will have to control the process visually.
The color of the item being heated can be used as a guide. When heated to 800 degrees, the metal turns cherry red. This means that it is too early to remove the product from the oven. If the spring is hot enough (870 degrees), it will turn light red. Now it should be cooled. Transformer or spindle oil is suitable for this purpose. In special factory thermal furnaces, metals are heated to 1050 degrees.
Products at this temperature regime acquire orange shades.
Final stage
After the hardening procedure, the spring should be compressed and left in this position for two days. Then, using a sharpening machine, its ends are processed. This will give the handicraft the required size. After completing all of the above steps, the spring is considered ready for use. According to experts, homemade products cannot be compared with similar factory-made products.
However, non-standard springs are widely used in various mechanisms. If they are used in a gentle manner, the springs will last quite a long time.
Source: https://FB.ru/article/397512/kak-sdelat-prujinu-poshagovaya-instruktsiya-i-rekomendatsii
Types of wire bending machines
[Wire bending] is one of the ways to give it a new shape using manual or mechanical action using special equipment.
The bending itself occurs due to the compression of the inner layer, due to which the outer layer can be stretched and bent. Such technological work is in great demand, as is equipment for manual bending.
You can create products from bent wire with your own hands.
In this case, it is advisable to choose softer plastic materials for the process so that the wire can bend easily and doing the work with your own hands does not create difficulties.
If the wire is rigid and has a large diameter, then to process it manually you need to use certain tools:
- using pliers you can create a small bend of a few mm; they are also convenient for fixing material for subsequent processing;
- You can cut the wire into separate parts with wire cutters or needle-nose pliers;
- pliers (a type of pliers) are considered one of the most convenient and versatile tools for bending wire with your own hands.
Before you start manually bending the material for the rings, it is better to create a certain template on paper and periodically check it as you work. Simple shapes can be made without templates.
For example, to create a regular rectangular clamp, it is enough to first clamp part of the wire with a bench vice, and bend the remaining piece at a right angle using pliers or a hammer.
What is used for bending wire? How to make a machine with your own hands!
Objects of various configurations and purposes can be made from wire. During work, it is important to bend the material correctly, therefore, when the diameter of the metal thread is more than 1 mm, it is advisable to use special devices.
The main types of this type of tool, as well as how to make a wire bending machine with your own hands, will be discussed in this article.
Basic bending methods
If it is necessary to perform a small amount of work, then hand tools are used to bend the wire. For bending soft metal materials or when the wire diameter does not exceed 3 mm, pliers or round nose pliers are used. These tools allow you to securely clamp a part of the product in one tool, and use another to bend the wire to the desired angle.
In this way, you can bend the material using a carpenter's vice. In this case, the wire is fixed in a vertical position, and the change in direction is also carried out using pliers or any other clamping device or mechanism.
If it is necessary to make a rounded bend, then for this purpose any rod of suitable diameter is used, which is also clamped in a vice. A rounded bend will need to be made when making springs from elastic wire yourself.
To do this, it is enough to clamp a rod or pipe of a suitable diameter in a vice, fix the end of the wire on one side, and use pliers to wind the wire the required number of turns.
If the wire has to be bent too often, then the most correct solution would be to purchase special devices or machines.
Tools for bending this material are a design in which the wire is clamped and bent using human muscle power. Machine tools usually use electric drives, and for the manufacture of complex products such machines are equipped with electronic controls.
Rules for work
Wire bending is not a complicated process, but to work effectively with this material you must adhere to the following rules:
- For work, you must use gloves made of thick fabric.
- Use only working tools and automatic machines.
- If a vice is used to perform this operation, then before starting the process, you must make sure that the workpiece is securely fixed.
- Before bending, the workpiece should be leveled.
Following these recommendations will help prevent scraps and injuries in the event of a sudden release of material from the holding device. You should also take care of the wiring and proper grounding when using machines that run on electricity.
Equipment use
If the volume of work is large enough, then equipment equipped with an electric motor will allow you to perform a large number of operations. The use of machines will significantly increase labor productivity, but at the initial stage it will be necessary to make some efforts to study the process of operation of a wire bending machine.
The most economical machine for bending wire is considered to be coil equipment, in which the material is supplied from bulk coils.
The process of bending wire on such equipment is carried out in the following order:
- The wire from the coil is fed to a roller mechanism, which aligns the material.
- The straightened wire enters the bending mechanism.
- At the next stage, bending and separation of the wire products occurs.
- After cutting the finished product, the process is repeated.
To make wire bending work as comfortable as possible, CNC machines are used.
Despite the significant cost of such equipment, the return on investment in a business occurs within a few months. Machines equipped with a microprocessor allow not only to fully automate the process, but also to carry out welding work on curved products.
DIY device
If the wire bending device will be used only for home work, then you can make a manual machine yourself. Equipment made with your own hands will not be highly productive, but for performing daily operations in a small volume such a product will be quite sufficient.
For a homemade machine you will need to prepare the following materials:
- Sheet steel 4 mm.
- Steel rod 20 mm.
- Profile pipe 20*20 mm and 30*30 mm.
- Two 12 mm nuts.
- Steel pipe ¾.
- Bolt 12 * 70 mm.
- Bushing from the reaction rod of a VAZ 2106 car.
To perform this work you will also need to prepare the following tools:
- grinder;
- welding machine;
- drill and metal drill bit 20 mm.
A device for bending wire is made with your own hands in the following sequence:
- A rectangle measuring 150*80 mm is cut out of a steel sheet using a grinder.
- Stepping back approximately 30 mm from the shorter side, you need to make a hole with a diameter of 20 mm exactly in the middle.
- Cut a piece 45 mm long from the metal rod.
- Place a piece of rod into the previously made hole and weld it on the back side.
- Cut a 70*30 mm rectangle from a metal sheet.
- Make two holes with a diameter of 16 mm in the 70*30 mm plate. The holes should be equidistant from the edges of the plate, and the distance between them should be 20 mm.
- Weld M12 nuts to the 70*30 mm plate so that they align with the holes made earlier. In order to perfectly center the nuts before welding, it is recommended to place them on a bolt, which should be threaded into the hole.
- Cut a piece 45 mm long from a ¾ steel pipe.
- Weld a 70*30 mm plate to the resulting cylinder made of a metal pipe, so that the pipe hole is in the same row as the previously drilled 16 mm holes. When performing this work, the plate should be placed exactly in the middle of the height of the steel cylinder.
- Cut a piece 400 mm long from a 30*30 mm profile pipe.
- Weld a section of profile pipe to a 70*30 mm steel plate. The metal connection is made on the side opposite to the welded cylinder. This will create a lever with a cylinder and 2 holes at the end.
- A piece 100 mm long is cut from a 20*20 mm profile pipe.
- A section of profile pipe is welded to the edge of a 150*80 mm plate. This element must be positioned from one of the corners to the level of the previously welded metal rod.
- Cut a 70*40 mm plate from a metal sheet. This part will be intended to support the workpiece, so it must also be welded to a section of the profile pipe.
- The torque bushing fits onto a 12 mm bolt, which should then be screwed into a nut welded to the lever.
- The lever with the bushing is fitted as a cylinder onto a piece of metal rod welded to the frame.
- To securely fix the machine during operation, it is recommended to secure the frame to a flat horizontal surface using threaded connections or welding.
The manufacture of the machine can be considered completed.
Wire bending is carried out as follows:
- The workpiece is placed on the side platform so that the front part is inserted into the gap between the central cylinder and the bushing attached to the lever.
- The lever rotates to the required angle.
- The workpiece is removed from the machine, trimmed and used for its intended purpose.
If the homemade machine was made of high-quality materials, and the welding seams were made at a professional level, then the device can be used not only for processing wire. In this case, it is possible to use the product for bending pipes, including profile pipes, with a diameter of up to 10 mm.
Source: https://plavitmetall.ru/oborudovanie/stanok-dlya-gibki-provoloki.html
Wire wrap: basic techniques
Wire wrap: the basic techniques of working in this needlework technique require skills and dexterity from the master. Wire wrap is a popular trend in jewelry that has its own characteristics. However, if you get good at it and hone your techniques, your technical products will turn out to be unique and very original.
Jewelry and individual parts of products are made by twisting wire and soldering individual metal elements together. After completion of the work, the jewelry is subjected to patination (special artificial aging) and polishing so that its appearance has luster and sophistication.
What materials and tools are needed to make wire wrap?
To try your hand at twisting wire and creating jewelry, you should acquire an impressive set of tools. For this lesson you will need:
- wire made of copper, brass, cupronickel or silver with a diameter of 0.4 - 1.3 mm. For different patterns, different wires are used - curls, rings, arcs can be of different sizes;
- earrings (clasps or bases for earrings) made of the same metal as wire;
- beads, rhinestones, stones;
- wire cutters (platypus pliers or round nose pliers);
- sandpaper or needle file;
- side cutters;
- hammer with anvil;
- portable gas burner;
- machine oil, ammonia, borax;
- protective products: gloves, plastic glasses, mask.
Before work, you should make sure that the wire does not have a varnish coating. How to do it? You need to heat a piece of wire and see: if there is burning and a smell, it means there is varnish and you should burn it before work. There is no need to hold the wire over the fire for a long time. If it is thin, it will quickly heat up and burn out. Pass it over the flame without pausing, sand it with sandpaper, then boil it with lemon juice and rinse with clean water.
Basic Wire wrap techniques
Modern fashionistas love jewelry made from copper wire. Firstly, in almost all cases these are handmade products, and secondly, it is unlikely that the second, exactly the same jewelry can be seen on friends and acquaintances.
Handmade products are always unique and can be made to order. The master will make what you need, possibly according to the sketch you suggested.
Or you can become a wire wrap master yourself, make your own jewelry and earn money from this craft. You should start learning by twisting ordinary copper wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm, this will allow you to understand how difficult it is to work in this area.
Considering that copper wire bends and curls easily, you can relatively quickly learn how to make curls and rings from it, which are what jewelry is made of.
Working with beads
First, try threading the wire into the bead and securing the ends:
- take a roll of wire and bend a small piece. Pass it through the hole in the bead and leave 1 cm on each side.
- Remove the wire from the bead and cut it from the skein with wire cutters, then thread it back into the bead.
- Using round pliers, wrap one end of the wire into a small ring; do this, gradually bending the metal. Make the same end on the other side.
Simple spiral
Having dealt with the beads, learn to twist the wire into a spiral. There are two types of spirals: closed, in which there is no gap between the elements, and open, in which the curls are separated by a certain distance.
To make a closed-type spiral, you first need to form a ring from the tip of the wire, squeeze it with pliers and carefully roll it around the ring. 1 cm of metal is left for the loop, which is formed by twisting it with pliers.
We twist the loop in the opposite direction from the spiral.
Connecting rings and chains of them
Certain types of parts are fastened using connecting rings. To make them, the wire is rolled into curls of equal diameter using pliers, which can be cut off as needed.
After unwinding a piece of wire, twist the end into a loop with round pliers. Move the tool to the other end, wind the wire in the opposite direction onto a section of the pliers that is wider than the previous one to obtain a hook. Remove the wire from the tool and cut off each spring curl with side cutters. You will get connecting rings.
Use pliers to open the ring at the joints, doing this carefully, being careful not to break the round shape. The open ring is threaded through the desired element and secured with pliers. Fasten tightly so that the links in the chain of connecting rings do not fall apart when pulled.
Usually the rings do not come out uniform and even. To get even and identical rings, you need to use a template for winding, made from a nail of the required diameter or a knitting needle. After winding a spiral around it several times, you can cut it into rings and use it to make chains or fasten parts.
Wire weaves can be made using a vice and a drill, but you can also use other handy objects, such as a door handle or a round wooden spoon. It is enough to fasten the required amount of wire on both sides and rotate it so that the interweaving of metal threads begins.
Making earrings
Making your own earrings from materials identical to the product will help you avoid searching for the necessary fragments to create jewelry. To do this, you need pliers, wrap a wire around the wide end of which and form a loop at a distance of 2.5 cm from the end.
Wrap a piece of the remaining wire at the base under the loop. Cutting the metal rod from the skein at a distance of 1 cm, form a link for the connection. Take a hammer and tap the hinges to strengthen their structure. Attach the hook with connecting rings or directly.
The fastener can be shaped like the letter S. To do this, form a loop with a small diameter at the end of the wire, secure the wide end of the pliers below it, and bend the metal in the other direction from the loop. Cut the wire from the skein and form the same loop at the other end. Place the wide edge of the pliers under the new loop and also bend it in the opposite direction to create an S shape.
This clasp can also be decorated with a bead. To do this, after the first bend and cutting of the wire, it should be threaded through the bead. Then form a new loop and curl, as in the first case. For fixation, a piece of thinner wire is additionally wrapped around the bead.
Wire reinforcement
Strengthening is an important stage in creating jewelry. The thing should not only be beautiful, but also functional and of good quality. It will serve its owner for more than one day. There are different ways to strengthen the wire to increase the service life of the product.
To do this, you can use a jewelry hammer and a perfectly smooth anvil. If you are just learning how to work with wire, use the following method.
Take a piece of wire and make a wave out of it. Place it on the anvil and tap it with a hammer, holding it strictly perpendicular. If the angle is more or less than 90 degrees, nicks and dents will appear on the wire, which should not be allowed. Under the influence of a hammer, the wire can be slightly flattened and stretched, which means it will be sufficiently strengthened.
However, this method is not suitable for rings and links. Using pliers and platypuses on the ends will help to strengthen such parts. Each type of tool is attached to the edges of the wire; under the influence of force, the ends are directed at each other several times. The moment they begin to bounce, we will tell you that the wire is elastic and sufficiently strengthened.
The finished product can be sanded, patinated, treated with machine oil, goya paste and cleaned with a toothbrush and powder.
Products using the technique of twisting wire have been made since time immemorial; many museum collections contain women's and men's jewelry, fragments of horse harness, dishes, and interior items with curls and spirals twisted from wire. Art requires perseverance and steadiness of hands, although these qualities can be learned if you have a desire to create and make beautiful handicrafts.
Where to get copper wire, what kind of wire is suitable
How to make a pendant from wire - a lesson for beginners
Types of wire braids
(2 5,00 out of 5)
Source: https://three-needles.ru/rukodelie/pletenie/wire-wrap/wire-wrap-osnovnye-priemy/
Barbed wire - what is it, who invented it, design, main types
Many people associate barbed wire with the front, border posts or concentration camps, but even in peacetime this fence is a product in demand on the market. Fences with sharp and tenacious hooks are excellent at deterring tramps in empty dachas and are effectively used as a barrier for large livestock.
What is barbed wire?
The well-known “thorn” is made from metal threads or a narrow strip on which sharp elements are attached at certain intervals. Such a fence may not look very presentable, but it does not allow painless entry into a closed area. Often these fences are used on farms, to protect remote cottages, fields, vegetable gardens, and industrial facilities.
Pros of wire fencing:
- barbed wire lasts up to 20 years;
- excellent light transmission;
- reliability;
- simple installation;
- relative cheapness;
- versatility.
Disadvantages of barbed fences:
- A transparent fence does not protect well from prying eyes.
- Barbed wire in the residential sector looks unpresentable.
- High risk of injury from thorns.
Who invented barbed wire?
Back in the 1860s, French inventor Louis François Yanin patented double braided wire with diamond-shaped teeth. In parallel, a similar invention was being developed in America, where developing livestock farming required the production of effective but cheap fences for livestock. In 1874, Henry Rose patented a type of barbed wire that used planks with pointed elements.
A more advanced barbed wire is invented by the American Joseph F. Glidden. In its version, the prickly spikes were wound from metal threads. The spiked elements were firmly fixed to the main wire and did not move during installation. The unusual-looking product gained popularity relatively quickly; in a quarter of a century, by 1900, its production had grown to 150,000 tons/year.
Barbed wire design
In the traditional design, this product is a long core with a cross-section of mainly 2.5-2.8 mm, around which sharp elements are wound at certain intervals. Cheap barbed wire made from plain steel is short-lived and rusts relatively quickly when exposed to air. The warp thread is predominantly made from two braided strands with a galvanized coating. The spines themselves are made from several pieces of wire or obtained by stamping.
Types of barbed wire
A relatively simple product was gradually improved in order to enhance its protective characteristics. Instead of black iron, galvanized barbed wire began to be used, and twisted spikes began to be replaced with pointed hooks made of sheet steel. There are the following types of such fencing:
- A thread is a corrugated or uniform steel wire with spiked elements screwed to it. Depending on the degree of elasticity, the fence is made soft or elastic; the latter type is preferable to use for the construction of long sections.
- Barbed wire (tape) - elements with a cutting edge are made from a strip and then fixed by crimping or twisting around the main thread. The most popular variety is “Egoza” (AKL).
How to make barbed wire?
To create an impenetrable fence on your summer cottage, you can weave several meters of “biting” fence yourself. Expensive Egoza barbed wire requires the use of strip blanks, but you can get by with a cheaper option, in which the spikes are wound from pieces of wire. The instructions for making such a fence are extremely simple:
- A strong single-core wire with a diameter of up to 2.5-3 mm is used as a base.
- We twist two strands of the required length together to obtain a base in the form of a thick braid.
- Using a chisel, we cut blanks for tenons up to 15 cm long diagonally.
- We find a piece of corner with shelves from 20 mm.
- We drill a hole in one shelf with a diameter slightly larger than twice the diameter of the wire used.
- We clamp the corner in a vice.
- We put two blanks for the tenons together, slightly shifting them along the length.
- We place the blanks in the hole and use a tube to wind them onto the main core.
- When finished, the spikes should stick out on the barbed wire equally on both sides.
- We continue to screw the spikes onto the base at equal intervals.
A thorn fence can be attached on top of the main one or used independently in the form of a spiral fence directly along the ground. Even after deciding how to cut through the barbed wire using powerful pliers or scissors, attackers will need to cut it in several places at once to create a safe passage. To install the fence, the following types of brackets are used:
- Direct.
- L-shaped - for attaching a “thorn” installed at an angle outward or inward relative to the main wall.
- Y-shaped – for equipping a volumetric spiral fence.
- Semicircular – for creating spiral-shaped barriers.
How to string barbed wire?
Installation is carried out extremely carefully and always wear strong protective clothing. A barbed wire fence in the form of a spiral barrier is installed using the following technology:
- We attach the brackets to the main fence by welding or bolting.
- Using a winch, we pull a broach of powerful wire to prevent the “thorn” from sagging.
- We attach the spiral barrier with a pitch of at least 5-6 turns per linear meter.
- The barbed wire on the fence is fixed with pliers and staples to the brackets and broach.
Source: https://womanadvice.ru/kolyuchaya-provoloka-chto-eto-takoe-kto-ee-pridumal-konstrukciya-osnovnye-vidy
How to make a spring at home with your own hands
Most often, the question of how to make a spring yourself, using improvised means, does not arise. However, there are situations when a spring of the required diameter is not at hand. It is in such cases that the need arises to make this element with your own hands.
Making a small spring is quite possible
Of course, springs for critical mechanisms operating under intensive conditions are best manufactured in production conditions, where it is possible not only to select correctly, but also to comply with all the parameters of the technological process. If you need a non-standard spring for use in a mechanism that will be operated in a gentle mode, then you can make it at home.
What you need
To make your own spring, prepare the following supplies and equipment:
- steel wire, the diameter of which should correspond to the cross-sectional size of the turns of your future spring product;
- a regular gas burner;
- a tool that every locksmith workshop must have;
- bench vice;
- a stove, which can also be used as a heating device for household purposes.
It is easier to wind a spiral using devices, the design of which depends on the size and stiffness of the spring
The wire, if its diameter does not exceed 2 mm, does not need to be subjected to preliminary heat treatment, since it is easy to bend without it. Before winding such wire onto a mandrel of the required diameter, it must be unbent and carefully aligned along the entire length of the winding.
When choosing the diameter of the mandrel, you should take into account the size of the spring that you are going to make at home. To compensate for the elastic deformation of the wire, the diameter of the mandrel is chosen slightly smaller than the required size of the internal cross-section of the future product.
Coil spring winding device
If the diameter of the wire from which you are going to make a spring with your own hands is more than 2 mm, it must first be annealed, since without such a procedure it will be difficult to align it and wind it onto the mandrel.
Step-by-step instruction
Step 1
The first thing you need to do if you are going to make a spring with your own hands is to select the material for such a product. The optimal material in this case is another spring (the main thing is that the diameter of the wire from which it is made matches the cross-section of the coils of the spring that you need to make).
By selecting material from an old spring, you will be sure that the wire is made of hardened high carbon steel
Step 2
Annealing the wire for the spring, as mentioned above, will allow you to make it more flexible, and you can easily align it and wind it on the mandrel. To perform this procedure, it is best to use a special stove, but if you do not have one at your disposal, then you can use any other device that heats wood.
In such a stove you need to light birch wood and, when it burns down to coals, put a spring in it, the wire from which you are going to use. After the spring is red-hot, the coals must be moved to the side and the heated product allowed to cool along with the stove. After cooling, the wire will become much more flexible, and you can easily work with it at home.
Step 3
The wire that has become soft should be carefully aligned and begin to be wound onto a mandrel of the required diameter. When performing this procedure, it is important to ensure that the turns are located close to each other. If you have never winded springs before, you can first watch a training video, which is easy to find on the Internet.
You can use a screwdriver to wind a small spring.
Step 4
In order for your new spring to have the required elasticity, it must be hardened. Heat treatment such as hardening will make the material harder and more durable. To perform hardening, the finished spring must be heated to a temperature of 830–870°, for which you can use a gas burner.
You can determine that the required hardening temperature has been reached by the color of the hot spring: it should turn light red. To accurately determine this color, also rely on the video.
After heating to the required temperature, the spring must be cooled in transformer or spindle oil.
Step 5
After hardening, the spring should be kept in a compressed state for 20–40 hours, and then its ends should be processed on a sharpening machine to make a product of the required size.
After completing all the above procedures, you can begin to use the spring you made with your own hands for its intended purpose.
Source: http://met-all.org/obrabotka/prochie/kak-sdelat-pruzhinu-provoloki-domashnih-usloviyah.html
How to make a spring from wire
Springs are elastic structural elements that serve to accumulate or dissipate mechanical energy. They surround us on all sides - under the keys of the computer keyboard, in the car suspension and in the lifting mechanism of the sofa. The most common are coil compression springs. There are several ways to make them.
How to make a spring
Coil compression springs
Elastic elements can have different spatial forms. Historically, the first springs mastered by man were leaf springs. You can still see them today - these are springs on heavy-duty trucks. With the development of technology, people have learned to make more compact coil springs that work in compression. In addition to them, spatial elastic elements are also used.
Coil springs
Design Features
During operation, such springs take a load along their axis. In the initial position, there are gaps between their turns. The applied external force deforms the spring, its length decreases until the coils touch. From this moment on, the spring is an absolutely rigid body. As the external force decreases, the shape of the product begins to return to its original shape until it is completely restored when the load disappears.
The main characteristics describing the geometry of the part are:
- The diameter of the rod from which the spring is wound.
- Number of turns.
- Winding step.
- External diameter of the part.
The external shape may differ from cylindrical and represent one of the figures of rotation: cone, barrel (ellipsoid) and others
The winding pitch can be constant or variable. The winding direction is clockwise and counterclockwise.
Spring device
The cross-section of the turns can be round, flat, square, etc.
The ends of the turns are ground down to a flat shape.
Operating area
Cylindrical coil springs of constant outer diameter and constant pitch are used more widely than others. They are used in areas such as
- Mechanical engineering.
- Instrumentation.
- Vehicles.
- Mining industry.
- Appliances .
and in other industries.
Use of springs in everyday life
The following properties are required for the work to function effectively:
- high strength;
- plastic;
- elasticity;
- wear resistance.
To ensure the design values of these parameters, it is necessary to correctly select the material, accurately calculate the dimensions, develop and follow the manufacturing technology.
State standards determine the requirements for the manufacture of springs. According to permissible deviations, they belong to one of the accuracy groups:
- less than 5%;
- less than 10%;
- less than 20%.
Schematic representation of a spring
Strict requirements are imposed on the accuracy of geometry and surface cleanliness.
Products with scratches and other external defects that reduce the resource of the product and its service life do not meet the standard
Material requirements
The strength parameters and fault tolerance of a product are largely determined by the material from which it was decided to be made. Metallurgists distinguish special spring steels in the classification of steels.
They have a specific crystal structure, determined both by the chemical composition and the heat treatment of the products.
Highly alloyed alloys of increased purity and high metallurgical quality provide high elasticity and ductility, and are able to retain their physical and mechanical properties after repeated deformations.
Steel 60S2A
Spring alloys 60S2A, 50HFA and stainless steel 12Х18Н10Т have gained popularity among mechanism designers.
Features of the technology
The technological process for manufacturing elastic elements depends on the technical requirements for the design. Making a spring is not as easy as an ordinary part, which should not have special elastic properties. This requires special equipment and equipment.
Winding of springs with a round coil section is carried out using the following methods:
- Cold. Suitable for small and medium sizes (wire diameter up to 8 mm).
- Hot. For large diameters.
Spring coiling technology
After winding, the elastic elements are subjected to various types of heat treatment. During this process, the product acquires the specified properties.
Cold coiling technology without hardening
First you need to do preparatory operations. Before a workpiece is wound from wire, it is subjected to a patenting procedure. It consists in heating the material to the plasticity temperature. This operation prepares the wire for the upcoming change in shape.
During the winding operation the following parameters must be maintained:
- External diameter of the product (for some parts the internal diameter is standardized).
- Number of turns.
- Winding pitch.
- The total length of the part, taking into account subsequent operations.
- Compliance with the geometry of the end turns.
Cold coiling without tempering
Next, the end turns are ground down to a flat state. This must be done to ensure high-quality support for other structural parts, to prevent their destruction and the spring from slipping out.
The next stage of the technological process is heat treatment. Cold coiling of springs involves only tempering at low temperatures. It allows you to increase elasticity and relieve mechanical stresses that arise during winding.
It is extremely important to strictly adhere to the design heat treatment schedule, carefully controlling temperature and holding time.
After heat treatment, it is necessary to carry out test and control operations.
Further, if necessary, protective coatings can be applied to prevent corrosion. If they were applied by galvanic method, the products are reheated to reduce the hydrogen content in the surface layer.
The first stages of the technology coincide with the previous process. Changes begin at the heat treatment stage. It is carried out in several stages:
- Hardening. The workpiece is heated to a given temperature and held for 2 to 3 hours. Next, it is subjected to rapid cooling by immersing it in a container with mineral oil or saline solution. During the hardening stage, the workpieces must be in a horizontal position. This will avoid deformation
- Vacation. The workpiece is heated to 200-300° and kept for several hours to relieve internal stresses and improve elastic properties.
Further measuring and control operations are also carried out. The workpieces that have passed the inspection are sent for sandblasting to remove scale. If necessary, shot blasting should also be done to increase the strength of the surface layer of the metal.
The process is completed by applying a protective coating.
Hot coiling technology with quenching and tempering
Before winding, the workpiece is heated to plasticity temperature using one of the following methods
- muffle furnace;
- gas-burner;
- high frequency heating.
Next, the workpiece is supplied to the coiling equipment. The geometry is adjusted and flat ends are formed.
Heat treatment includes hardening and low-temperature tempering.
Heat treatment schedules are constructed based on the properties of the material and the dimensions of the workpiece.
Operating mode of the quenching and tempering furnace line
Next comes the control and measuring stage. Manufacturing is completed by applying anti-corrosion protection.
Equipment and fixtures used
To make an elastic element, specialized equipment is required. These are winding machines. You can make a part on a regular lathe, but it will require additional equipment with special equipment. Medium and large series are produced on semi-automatic machines that operate with minimal operator intervention. You can also make a spring from wire by hand. This will also require special equipment.
At the next stage of machining, the ends are ground on face grinding machines. For single production or small series, this can be done with a grinding wheel.
Heat treatment is carried out using mandrels that prevent product deformation in specialized furnaces for hardening and tempering. Both operations can be done in a universal oven.
Equipment and fixtures used
For quality control, load installations and measuring systems are used. In case of single production, measurements can be made with a universal tool.
Source: https://stankiexpert.ru/tehnologii/kak-sdelat-pruzhinu.html
