How to properly knit reinforcement for an armored belt

Armobelt. What is it and how to do it

A reinforced belt, also known as a monolithic belt or seismic belt, is a special design designed to solve two problems. First, distribute the load from what will be on top to what will be below. And, secondly, to connect the entire plane on which it is located into a single whole.

Both a monolithic concrete armored belt and a reinforced brick one cope with load distribution. Both of them do an excellent job of distributing the load, say, from floor slabs to walls.

If the task is also to connect the walls into a single whole, for example, from the bursting load of the roof rafters on the walls of the house, then a reinforced concrete belt is needed.

How to make an armored belt with your own hands

Now that we’ve figured out what an armored belt is, let’s find out how to make it with your own hands. With a brick armored belt, everything is simple. Typically, masonry is made of solid red brick of minimum grade M100 in several rows with reinforcement with masonry mesh. You can also reinforce the masonry with reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. With a concrete, monolithic armored belt, the situation is more complicated.

First you need to set up the formwork. This can be either wooden formwork or “tray” or permanent formwork, if we are talking about an armored belt on aerated concrete or foam concrete blocks. You can use factory U-blocks or make your own trays. To do this, it is not necessary to cut a U-block from a regular gas block. It is enough to make masonry from a thin gas block on the outside and inside. The space between these blocks can be insulated with extruded polystyrene.

After you have made the formwork, a reinforcement frame is placed inside the tray.

Sufficient reinforcement for an armored belt measuring 200 by 200 mm is a frame of 4 threads of reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm (two on top and bottom), fastened with transverse clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm every 30-50 cm.

The standard overlap of reinforcement should be 30-40 diameters. That is, if you are laying 12 mm reinforcement, then when building it up, you need to make an overlap of about 40 cm.

In corners, the reinforcement must be bent so that the corner is connected by solid reinforcement.

It is advisable to place the frame made of reinforcement on plastic clamps of the thickness of the protective layer of concrete. And put the clamps on the vertical clamps. If there are no factory fixings for the protective layer, you can use pieces of stone, brick, etc.

Pins under the Mauerlat or pieces of reinforcement are attached to the reinforcement frame for subsequent fixation of the floor slabs.

Now you can proceed directly to pouring the reinforced belt with concrete.

If you will be pouring purchased concrete, choose the M200-M250 brand. This grade of strength is absolutely enough for private construction.

If you plan to prepare concrete for pouring the armored belt yourself, then use the universal recipe for the proportions of concrete for the armored belt: 1 part 500 grade cement, 2 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone.

You can also use one of our construction calculators to calculate the composition of concrete. Don't forget to add concrete plasticizer to the mix. This will make the filling more convenient for you, and the resulting armored belt more durable.

After pouring, cover the armored belt with film to prevent sudden drying. For the same purpose, wet the concrete for the first 2-3 days.

The armored belt will be ready for loading in a week. Full maturation of concrete will be completed 28 days after pouring.

In what cases is an armored belt needed?

A monolithic reinforced concrete belt is required:

• on a block foundation
• on walls made of aerated concrete, foam blocks, etc. under hollow-core slabs and wooden floor beams (to prevent squeezing). Here the armored belt can be brick
• under the Mauerlat on the roof, the design of which assumes a spacer load on this same Mauerlat

Is it possible to fill the armored belt in winter, in cold weather?

Filling an armored belt in winter is a questionable task. However, if you really need to fill it in the cold season, take all measures to protect the concrete. Add special anti-frost additives to concrete. Use as little water as possible to mix concrete. After pouring, be sure to cover the armored belt to protect from the cold. For example, sawdust. In sub-zero temperatures, use a special heating cable. It is sold in any construction supermarket.

What is the minimum thickness, height, width, size of the armored belt?

The minimum size of the armored belt is 150 by 150 mm. But not less than the width of the support of the slabs or floor beams.

The armored belt freezes, what should I do?

If you or your workers forgot to insulate the armored belt before pouring, then you will have to insulate it now. The armored belt is insulated from the outside.

Condensation on the armored belt. The armored belt is sweating. What to do?

Insulate. Other options: increase the room temperature, reduce the room humidity.

Is it possible to fill the armored belt in parts?

Can. To do this, make a bevel at the junction. And the concrete doesn't have to be smooth.

Source: https://o-remonte.com/armopoyas-chto-yeto-takoe-i-kak-sdelat/

How to make an armored belt?

Reinforced belt (armopoyas) is a reinforced concrete layer that is laid along the entire perimeter of the building. The installation of an armored belt with reinforcement and formwork increases the strength of load-bearing walls. This allows you to increase the strength and service life of the structure. As practice shows, it is practically not subject to destruction even during soil subsidence or shifting. Armopoyas are also called seismic belts, reinforced concrete or unloading belts.

The building materials that are used for construction today have many advantages. However, most of them are characterized by insufficient rigidity and negatively perceive point forces.

Reinforced belt (reinforced belt) - a reinforced concrete layer that is laid along the entire perimeter of the building

In order to strengthen buildings made of brick or block materials, you need to know how to make formwork for an armored belt. Most often they resort to this during:

• construction of a shallow foundation;
• building a house on a site with a slope;
• close location of the building to the reservoir;
• construction work on subsidence soil;
• construction of structures in seismically active zones.

The production of armored belts is carried out using several technologies: with disposable or removable formwork. Using ready-made blocks of permanent formwork, you can quickly assemble a form for pouring concrete. Typically, in this case, polystyrene foam blocks are used - this way the formation of cold bridges is excluded.

Disposable and removable formwork can be done by hand. In the latter case, boards are used instead of ready-made blocks - this significantly reduces the cost of construction.

When is an armored belt device necessary?

Soil shrinkage, wind loads and temperature fluctuations have a significant impact on the condition of the building. In order to make the building invulnerable to negative environmental factors, additional reinforcement will be needed. The maximum efficiency is demonstrated by the seismic belt when constructed from gas silicate blocks (they are especially vulnerable to bending type deformations.)

Belt reinforcement with four-bar mesh

The armored belt takes the main load and helps to increase the service life of the structure. You need to use it:

• to evenly distribute the load on the building frame;
• when attaching timber to the tops of walls (an armored belt under the roof prevents the occurrence of excessive vertical loads);
• in order to correct mistakes made during masonry;
• fixing a closed line, which is the basis for fastening the roof;
• ensuring high rigidity of the building.

Formwork for armored belts also simplifies the process of pouring foundations, walls, ceilings and other reinforced concrete structures. This system consists of a deck in contact with concrete, scaffolding and fasteners. Formwork is made from various materials:

• rolled, sheet steel;
• aluminum;
• boards, chipboard or plywood;
• plastic and its varieties.

DIY foundation formwork

What is the structure of a reinforced belt?

A long-lasting and reliable foundation requires a lot of building materials. To avoid wasteful expenses, experts recommend using a special calculator for calculating armored belts. You can find it on thematic sites - you just need to enter the basic parameters of the future foundation. The exact calculation of the armored belt is carried out based on the following data:

• tape length;
• tape width;
• desired foundation height;
• number of reinforcement threads;
• reinforcement diameter.

In modern construction, several reinforced belts are used. Each armored belt design presented below differs in its installation method and purpose. It is recommended to take into account the features of each of them for durable and competent construction:

• the first belt (grillage) is poured simultaneously with the strip foundation (concrete is poured into the trench to a depth of 300-400 mm) This is the key to the strength of external and permanent internal walls;
• the second belt is laid on top of foundation blocks 200-400 mm high. Since it distributes the load on the foundation from the entire house, it is important to use reinforcement during the construction of each floor of multi-story buildings;

The third belt is designed to tighten the walls and prevent cracks from appearing in the future

• the third belt is designed to tighten the walls and prevent cracks from appearing in the future. The installation of armored belt formwork helps to distribute the load evenly over window and door openings - it is laid on top of silicate blocks, under interfloor slabs;
• The armored belt under the roof takes on the entire load from the roof, the negative impact of strong winds and precipitation. It is performed under the roof beams to strengthen the beams using anchor bolts.

If you have chosen a more economical formwork method, it is important to install wooden panels in such a way that their position is not disturbed due to concrete pressure.

You need to pass the anchors through the wood and install plugs on them using electric welding. Filling the interfloor reinforced belt is much faster:

• a 6 x 100 mm screw is attached to the bottom of the wooden panel;
• the distance between the screws should be about 700 mm;
• the shield is applied to the wall, a hole is drilled into which a screw is inserted;
• recommended hole diameter is 6 mm.

The upper part of the formwork is also installed quite simply, according to a similar scheme, but instead of a screw, a self-tapping screw is used. A hole is drilled in the brick or face masonry seam into which the reinforcement is driven. Next, the self-tapping screw and reinforcement are tied together with binding wire. The distance between the fastening elements should be maintained within 1-1.5 m. After the reinforced belt has hardened, the formwork can be removed. In the warm season, concrete sets in a day; in winter and autumn it will take more than two days.

Formwork for armored belts under floor slabs

It is important to control the level of the upper edge of the formwork - differences should not exceed 1 cm. From this point of view, it is more rational to use permanent or combined formwork.

If you plan to further insulate the facade with polystyrene foam, permanent formwork made of polystyrene blocks will become an element of the insulating layer. The only difference between the manufacturing technology of such formwork and removable formwork is the connection of several parts for the armored belt of the floor. They should be fastened in such a way that during the concrete hardening process the solution does not move them apart.

A high-quality installation of an armored belt consists of proper laying of the reinforcement frame and filling the forms with concrete. The most reliable is considered to be a frame made of metal rods (8-10 mm cross-section), fastened together with wire and laid horizontally in a mold. It is important to fasten the frame with a ring of binding wire every 50 cm.

In order for the construction of a reinforced belt to be as effective as possible, it is necessary to pour the solution so that the entire reinforcement frame is completely immersed in concrete. After pouring, make sure that the metal rods do not come into contact with the formwork: in order to adjust the height, you can place pieces of brick or other building material under the frame. At the final stage, all that remains is to pour the concrete into the molds and compact it. After it has completely “set”, the forms are disassembled.

Pouring the armored belt with concrete

To strengthen the foundation and load-bearing structures of the future building, it is not necessary to have special skills. Using the following recommendations, you will learn how to properly fill the armored belt so that the building is stable and durable, despite any external negative factors.

Recommendations for making reliable armored belts

• an armored belt for aerated concrete under floor beams will last much longer if you first level the walls and clean them of any remaining concrete mortar;
• When choosing a material for fastening wooden panels, it is important to use self-tapping screws. They, unlike nails, can be quickly removed using a cordless screwdriver;
• fiberglass reinforcement is resistant to low temperatures, but at extremely high temperatures the material begins to melt - this must be taken into account when choosing building materials;
• When reinforcing brickwork, ensure complete sealing of the joints. Fill the resulting gaps with a thick solution with the addition of polyurethane foam or a special film;
• It is especially important to carry out the formwork in one step (you can find out more about how to properly reinforce a strip foundation with your own hands on this website);
• the main condition for reinforcement is a closed structure. Strengthening should not be interrupted under any circumstances;

• There are several conflicting opinions about whether foundation reinforcement can be welded. Experts say that the strength and rigidity at the weld joint are somewhat reduced.
• it is preferable to use high-quality concrete of at least M200 grade;
• correct reinforcement of corners implies fastening reinforcement only using bent elements;
• during hot periods, you need to generously moisten the treated surfaces with water - this way you will prevent cracks from appearing in the frozen solution.

Source: https://pobetony.expert/armirovanie/kak-sdelat-armopoyas

Making an armored belt with your own hands

Without exception, any structure made of any block materials will be constantly exposed to natural phenomena - soil swelling, building settlement, and other ground movement. In addition, increased winds and rain can also affect the integrity of the entire building. It is to eliminate various movements of the building that a concrete reinforced belt is installed over the walls. We’ll talk about how to make an armored belt with your own hands in this article.

Armored belt device

A reinforcing belt, or as it is sometimes called a seismic belt, makes it possible to improve the strength of the entire house, and also helps prevent cracking of walls as a result of the movement of soil with the foundation and under the influence of atmospheric phenomena. In addition, if the armored belt is made correctly, it allows you to evenly distribute the loads from the roof or concrete floors located above it.

Please pay attention! Even if the floors in the house are made of wood, the need to make an armored belt does not disappear. The type of overlap does not determine whether to make an armored belt or not. In any case, the belt should close all the walls.

Everything is clear about the purpose of the armored belt. Now a few words about its design. An ordinary reinforced belt has two standard elements - a rigid volumetric frame made of reinforcement, as well as the concrete in which it is located. In general, everything is quite simple, but making an armored belt with your own hands without studying your features will probably be difficult.

How to make an armored belt - sequence

In order to determine the complexity of the work, as well as for a more detailed analysis of how a reinforced belt is made, we will break down the manufacturing technology into several stages. We can say that we will provide specific instructions for making an armored belt.

Metal frame made of reinforcement

It is necessary to begin assembling the frame by installing pieces of reinforcement at the top of the wall. To do this, you either need to simply drive in pieces, if the density of the material allows it, or drill holes and insert pieces into them. The reinforcement is installed at the intersection points of the walls and along the entire perimeter of the structure every 1-1.5 meters.

The segments are installed in squares of four pieces; they will determine the dimensions of the entire frame. After this, you need to secure the lower longitudinal row of reinforcement at a height of 3-4 cm from the top edge of the wall. To do this, longitudinal rods are tied to vertically mounted pins using knitting wire.

In this way, two parallel rods are secured.

After the longitudinal reinforcement is installed, it must be connected with short jumpers every 2.5-3 cm. For jumpers, you need to use pieces of reinforcement.

Vertical sections are also installed in a similar way. The upper longitudinal row of reinforcement will later be attached to them. The top row will be attached in the same way and with the same pitch as the horizontal one. The length of the segments will depend on the total thickness of the armored belt.

The recommended thickness of the armored belt is 200 – 250 mm. From these dimensions it is necessary to determine the length of the vertical segments. Longitudinal reinforcement bars are again attached to the vertical sections, which are then secured with transverse sections.

In general, everything is exactly the same as with the lower level of the longitudinal rods.

Formwork

At this stage, you can proceed in two ways: either install permanent formwork, or make a collapsible one from boards. The best option would be a collapsible design. It is assembled from almost any boards or sheet materials. During the construction of the formwork, it is necessary to monitor its upper edge - the difference should not be more than 1 cm.

The ideal option would be a combined system, in which on one side it will be non-removable, and on the other, it will be removed once the poured solution has hardened.

If the facade will be finished with some kind of material or insulated, then permanent polystyrene formwork can be installed on the front side, which will later become one of the elements of the insulating layer.

On the inside you can place a regular board or OSB, which can be fixed with improvised hardware and fasteners. The same cannot be said about working with foam concrete, which has its own options for fastening to the foam block.

The most difficult moment here will be connecting the two parts of the armored belt formwork. Here you need to approach it with all responsibility and think about how to connect two opposite parts in such a way that the poured concrete does not crush them on the sides.

To do this, you need to secure wooden spacers along the upper edge of the formwork in increments of 30–40 cm, and you can also tighten it with wire. To fasten with wire, you need to drill holes in the boards and thread the wire through, which will tighten the two parts of the structure.

After the solution hardens, simply bite off this wire with side cutters and it will remain inside the armored belt. After screeding, you can proceed to the next stage of construction of the reinforcing belt.

Pouring concrete

Everything here is not difficult enough, except for lifting the concrete inside the formwork from above the wall. But this issue can be easily sorted out when ordering. Companies providing concrete delivery services have the opportunity to order a concrete pump, which pumps the solution to any point of the reinforced belt being poured.

Let’s also say a few words about the quality of the concrete mixture and the method of preparing it if you prepare it yourself. When ordering, the brand must be at least B15. But if you prepare it yourself, the composition will be as follows: one bucket of cement and two buckets of crushed stone and sand . It is best to prepare the concrete mixture thicker, because...

it will not crush the formwork too much. However, such a solution has its own nuance - the mixture in the formwork must be carefully compacted and compacted. Ideally, a deep vibrator is used for this, but it is not often found in domestic construction.

For compaction, you can use either a piece of reinforcement or a piece of wooden block, which carefully compacts the entire solution in the formwork.

Completion

The final stage of making an armored belt with your own hands is to control the hardening of the concrete. Immediately after pouring the concrete mixture, it is best to cover it with cellophane film. This is necessary to reduce moisture loss and the appearance of cracks in the armored belt. After a few days, when the initial strength has been gained, the formwork can be removed (removable). By the way, we advise you to read the article “Cracks in the walls of a brick house: causes and elimination.”

Please pay attention! The humidity of hardening concrete must be constantly maintained by moistening its surface. Here you need to know that the slower the solution dries, the greater strength it will have.

That's basically all. Let us clarify only one detail, which concerns the waterproofing of the armored belt. Usually a mauerlat is laid on the armored belt for further installation of the roof. To do this, roofing felt or other modern bituminous material must be laid on the concrete surface to provide waterproofing. In this way, you can protect the base of your roof from incoming moisture from the walls.

 

Source: https://StroySoveti.ru/stenyi/kak-sdelat-armopoyas-svoimi-rukami.html

What is an armored belt and why is it needed?

|Reinforcement|What is an armored belt and why is it needed?

Date: April 24, 2017

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Comments: 0

Modern construction technologies are aimed at ensuring the stability of erected buildings and increasing their service life. After all, construction sites are exposed to natural factors associated with wind loads, precipitation, and the reaction of unstable soils. The structure of the buildings under construction requires reliable reinforcement, which is provided by an armored belt - a solid contour of reinforced concrete encircling the walls along a closed perimeter.

The reinforced belt along the load-bearing walls ensures high strength of the structure, increases the stability of the building, and compensates for significant loads.

A solid reinforced concrete contour makes it difficult for the building to deform due to shrinkage of the base, temperature and seismic factors, as well as snow cover and wind loads.

Creating a concrete belt around the perimeter of the building, reinforced with steel rods, makes it possible to form a monolithic frame, which makes it difficult for cracks to appear and increases the rigidity of the structure.

Remove the reinforced belt from the house and the building will not stand for long

There is no need to ask whether a reinforcing belt is needed. It is required during the construction of any residential and industrial facilities, ensuring reliability, stability and long service life of buildings. Let's go into detail about why ring reinforcement is performed and what materials are required. Let's look at how to make a seismic belt on your own.

On the feasibility of strengthening

What is an armored belt and why is it necessary? What caused the need to form a reinforced concrete ring around the perimeter of the building? What it is? Let's deal with all the questions in order. The reinforced belt along the load-bearing walls represents a monolithic concrete contour, repeating the closed configuration of the building and reinforced with a reinforcement frame. An armored belt is formed to solve the following problems:

• ensuring the horizontal level of the blocks in the masonry;
• compensation of thrust forces created by the rafter system;
• preventing deformation of main walls;
• proportional distribution of current efforts;
• reducing the likelihood of cracks;
• reducing negative factors associated with uneven shrinkage of the building.

Armopoyas is a tape made of monolithic reinforced concrete, which is laid on several levels of a building under construction

There are several factors that a reinforced belt along load-bearing walls can prevent:

1. The elements of the truss structure are fixed to the walls of the building using fastening anchors that violate the integrity of the cellular concrete blocks. The result of attaching rafters to aerated concrete blocks without a reinforcement contour is the appearance of cracks, a violation of integrity, and a decrease in strength.
2. Located at an angle to the walls, the rafter structure creates thrust loads, which cause deformation of the walls of the building. By forming an armored belt to counteract thrust forces, it is possible to ensure uniform distribution of acting loads along the height of the building.
3. The reinforced concrete contour makes it difficult to deform main walls that have window and door openings, which perceive the acting forces differently.

The need to strengthen the perimeter of a building is especially relevant when constructing buildings made of cellular concrete, which are prone to destruction under the influence of bending forces. Knowing how to make a seismic belt, you can form a reliable edging, reinforced with a steel reinforced frame, which compensates for the existing loads, ensuring the integrity of the structure.

Classification and purpose

Information about the types of reinforcement circuits will help answer the question of what an armored belt is and why it is needed. The stability of the structure is ensured by the following types of unloading belts:

Protects foundations and walls from cracks caused by uneven settlement and frost heaving of the soil

• the basic unloading belt, which, according to construction terminology, is called a grillage, is concreted when forming a strip foundation. The concrete belt, reinforced with a reinforcement frame, repeats the location of the main walls. The structure absorbs significant forces from the mass of the structure and the reaction of the soil;
• basement edging is the second level of reinforcement located above the foundation. The width of the contour corresponds to the thickness of the walls, allowing you to proportionally distribute the forces acting on the base. The design features of the belt located between the foundation and the main walls are provided for by the building design;
• the third unloading circuit is located between the upper level of the building walls and the floor slabs located between the floors. The one-piece reinforced structure of the belt ensures the immobility of load-bearing walls and makes it difficult for cracks to form. The belt ensures proportional distribution of loads acting from the interfloor slabs on the building contour. It reduces the likelihood of deformations in the area of ​​openings;
• the last unloading belt is located under the roof of the building and is the basis for the Mauerlat. The rafter system, consisting of parallel roof beams, is fastened with anchor elements at the final level of strengthening of the building. A closed concrete contour compensates for the loads created by the roof, which absorbs the mass of snow cover, precipitation, and wind loads.

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Having mastered the technology and learned how to make an armored belt, you can create a strong concrete contour around the perimeter of the building, providing reliable protection against deformations that cause cracks and damage to the integrity of the structure.

If the site contains weak soils (pulverized sand, loam, clay, loess, peat), then the answer to the question of whether a reinforcing belt is needed is obvious

Design nuances

Having dealt with the question of what an armored belt is and why it is formed, we will consider the design features of the design of unloading concrete belts. The reinforced belt on load-bearing walls is made in various versions:

• Based on cellular blocks of a u-shaped configuration, installed along the perimeter of the upper tier of the masonry. The tray elements are attached to the walls with an adhesive composition and form a heat-insulating contour. All that remains is to install the pre-assembled elements of the reinforcement frame, securely fasten them, forming a solid metal structure to be concreted.
• Using blocks intended for use as partitions. The partition elements are fixed with glue, a reinforcement frame is installed, the cavity with which is filled with concrete. In this embodiment, partition elements are used as a stationary formwork used to form the unloading edging. The adhesive mixture reliably fixes the partition blocks, which absorb the effective deformations resulting from bursting loads.
• Using wooden formwork, dismantled after the concrete solution has hardened. The method is relevant for the construction of objects whose walls are made of gas-filled blocks that require insulation. Thick plywood and planed boards are used as material for the formwork panels, the fixation of which is carried out by jumpers, ensuring the rigidity of the structure. The dimensions of the unloading contour correspond to the thickness of the main wall; the height is 30 cm.
• The lower part of the formwork is fixed using self-tapping screws. The immobility of the upper level of the wooden frame is ensured by transverse elements installed at equal intervals not exceeding 100 cm. This wooden structure is resistant to bursting forces. After installing the reinforcement frame, it is filled with concrete mixture.

If we are dealing with light blocks, then the armored belt will have to be filled

After familiarizing yourself with the design features, the question will not arise of how to make a seismic belt. Everything is quite simple - you need to decide on the option of the unloading circuit and study the sequence of operations.

What is needed for the job?

Knowing how to make a seismic belt, it is easy to determine what tools and materials will be needed for the work. Prepare:

1. Cement, crushed stone, sand and water for making concrete mortar.
2. Steel reinforcement with a diameter of 6–8, 12–14 mm for the manufacture of frames.
3. Concrete mixer for mixing ingredients.
4. "Grinder" for cutting reinforcement.
5. Knitting wire for joining steel bars.

If the foundation is assembled from FBS blocks, then an armored belt is definitely necessary

Stages of work

It is not difficult to fill the armored belt, strictly following the sequence of construction activities. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• assemble the formwork, which is the basis of the unloading edging. The use of polystyrene as stationary formwork will further insulate the building. For a collapsible structure, use plywood or wood. Ensure the rigidity of the formwork by using spacers and tightening the side panels with steel wire;
• cut steel rods and assemble them into separate frames. How to make an armored belt durable? Use longitudinal reinforcing bars with a diameter of more than 12 mm, connect them with jumpers with a cross-section of 6–8 mm, forming a square spatial structure. Use tying wire to connect the rods. Install the frame into the formwork, ensuring a guaranteed gap of 5 cm from the rods to the future concrete surface;
• prepare concrete solution for pouring. The required strength of concrete will be ensured by a cement to sand ratio of 1:4. Use a concrete mixer to ensure uniformity of the composition and preparation of large volumes;
• Fill the cavity with concrete without stopping during the pouring process. Remove air pockets using rebar or a concrete vibrator. Plan the concrete surface;
• ensure the immobility of the hardening composition for the normal course of the hydration process. Ensure moisture retention by covering the concrete mass with plastic film. Periodically moisten the array with water to prevent it from cracking. Dismantle the formwork no earlier than 4 weeks after pouring.

The sequence of operations is the answer to the question: how to make a seismic belt?

Conclusion

After reading the material in the article, there will be no questions about what an armored belt is and why it is being built, as well as how to make an armored belt. It’s easy to do all the work yourself, having studied the technology and prepared the necessary materials and tools.

On the website: Author and editor of articles on the website pobetony.ru
Education and work experience: Higher technical education. 12 years of experience in various industries and construction sites, 8 of which were abroad.

Other skills and abilities: Has the 4th group of electrical safety clearance. Perform calculations using large data sets.

Current employment: For the last 4 years he has been acting as an independent consultant for a number of construction companies.

Source: https://pobetony.ru/armirovanie/armopoyas/

How to make an armored belt

An armored belt is a reinforced concrete structure that is designed to strengthen the walls of a house. This is necessary to protect the walls from loads arising under the influence of external/internal factors. External factors include wind exposure, terrain slope/hilliness, floating soil and seismic activity of the earth.

The list of internal factors includes all household construction devices used in the interior decoration of the house. If you make an armored belt incorrectly, then due to these phenomena the walls will simply crack, and what’s even worse, they will corrode. In view of this, it is very important to be aware of how to make an armored belt.

The types, purpose and method of installation of the armored belt will be discussed in this article.

Kinds

There are 4 types of armored belt:

• grillage;
• basement;
• interfloor;
• under the Mauerlat.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, you should prepare the following tools/materials:

To ensure that all the work you perform is done with high quality, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the techniques for manufacturing reinforced mesh/framework and formwork.

Manufacturing of reinforcing mesh/frame

In order for the reinforced belt to be of high quality, and therefore the house to be reliable, you need to know how to properly make the reinforced mesh/frame. The connection of the reinforcement bars to each other is carried out using a knitting wire, and not a welding seam. This is due to the fact that during welding, the area near the seam being made overheats, which leads to a weakening of the strength of the reinforcement. But you can’t do without welding seams when making mesh. The middle and ends of the frame are welded, while the remaining connecting nodes are tied together.

Laid frame in armored belt

The rods are fastened to fix the reinforcement in the required position when pouring concrete. For these purposes, thin wire is used; the strength of the mesh/frame does not depend on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekYYxE2pwwA

For the manufacture of armored belts, only ribbed rods are used. Concrete clings to the ribs, which helps to increase the load-bearing capacity of the structure. Such a belt can work in tension.

To make a frame, take 2 wires 12 mm thick and 6 m long, while for transverse reinforcement you will need rods 10 mm thick. The transverse reinforcement should be welded in the center and edges. The rest of the rods are simply knitted. After making two meshes, hang them so that a gap is formed. Weld them from the edges and in the center. This way you will have a frame. There is no need to weld the frames to make the belt. They are laid with an overlap of 0.2–0.3 m.

Grillage

Initially, you should determine the depth of the foundation. This parameter depends on the type of soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater. Then you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the future house. This can be done manually, which is long and tedious, or with the help of an excavator, which is quick and efficient, but entails additional costs.

After special equipment is used, the bottom and walls of the trench should be leveled to solid ground. The surface should be as hard and smooth as possible.

Now you need to form a sand cushion, the height of which should be 50–100 mm. If it is necessary to backfill sand more than 100 mm, it must be mixed with crushed stone. This activity may be necessary to level the bottom of the trench. Another way to level the bottom is to pour concrete.

Making a frame for a grillage

After filling the sand cushion, it must be compacted. To complete the task faster, pour water on the sand.

Then the reinforcement should be laid. During the construction process, under normal conditions, you need to use reinforcement of 4–5 cores, the diameter of each rod should be 10–12 mm. It is important that when pouring the grillage for the foundation, the reinforcement does not touch the base. It must be recessed in concrete. Thus, the metal will be protected from corrosion. To achieve this, the reinforcing mesh should be raised above the sand cushion, placing brick halves under it.

Strip foundation grillage

If you are building a house on heaving soil or where the groundwater level is high, then the grillage should be made more durable. To do this, instead of reinforcing mesh, you should use a reinforcement cage. He imagines 2 meshes consisting of 4 wires with a diameter of 12 mm. They should be laid below and above the armored belt. Granular slag is used as a base instead of a sand cushion. Its advantage over sand is that over time, granulated slag turns into concrete.

To make the mesh, a knitting wire is used rather than a welding seam.

For the grillage, M200 concrete should be used. To ensure that the filling height corresponds to the specified value, install a beacon in the trench - a metal peg equal in length to the height of the grillage. It will serve as your guide.

Base armored belt

Before erecting walls, a basement reinforced belt should be poured onto the foundation. It must be poured along the perimeter of the building along the external walls, but this cannot be done along the internal load-bearing walls.

The base armored belt serves as additional reinforcement of the structure. If you have filled the grillage with high quality, then the plinth belt can be made less durable. The height of the armored belt is 20–40 cm, concrete M200 and higher is used.

The thickness of two-core reinforcing bars is 10–12 mm. The reinforcement is laid in one layer.

If you need to strengthen the base belt, then use reinforcement of greater thickness or install more conductors. Another option is to lay the reinforced mesh in 2 layers.

Formwork for base armored belt

The thickness of the basement and external walls is the same. It ranges from 510 to 610 mm. When pouring the base armored belt, you can do without formwork, replacing it with brickwork. To do this, you need to make half-brick masonry on both sides of the wall. You can fill the resulting void with concrete after placing reinforcement in it.

In the absence of a grillage, it is useless to make a base armored belt. Some craftsmen, having decided to save on the grillage, strengthen the base belt, using reinforcement of a larger diameter, which supposedly improves the load-bearing capacity of the house. In fact, such a decision is unreasonable.

The grillage is the foundation of the house, and the plinth belt is an addition or strengthening of the load-bearing capabilities of the reinforced belt for the foundation. The joint work of the grillage and the plinth belt guarantees a reliable foundation even on heaving soils and with a high level of groundwater.

Interfloor

An armored belt must also be made between the wall and the floor slabs. It is poured along external walls with a height of 0.2 to 0.4 m. Interfloor armored belt allows you to save on door/window lintels. They can be made small and with a minimum of reinforcement. Thus, the load on the structure will be distributed evenly.

If an armored belt is installed on walls made of poorly load-bearing material, the load from the floor slabs will be distributed evenly along the entire length of the walls, which will have a beneficial effect on their strength characteristics.

Formwork for interfloor reinforced belt

Reinforcement of the interfloor belt is carried out with a mesh of ribbed reinforcing bars 10–12 mm thick in 2 cores. If the thickness of the walls varies between 510–610 mm, then double-sided brickwork can be used as formwork, as for the base belt.

But at the same time, backing bricks should be used for internal masonry, and facing bricks for external masonry. In this case, the armored belt will have a width of 260 mm.

If the walls are thinner, the backing brick should be laid on edge or wooden formwork should be used instead, and the facing brick should be laid on the outside in the same way as in the previous case.

Under the Mauerlat

The armored belt can be poured under the Mauerlat only after the glue/mortar for masonry walls has hardened. The technology used to lay the reinforced belt on aerated concrete differs in the formwork design, but we will talk about this a little later. The production of wooden formwork is carried out according to a scheme already familiar to you. Concrete is prepared according to the following formula: 2.8 parts sand to 1 part cement and 4.8 parts crushed stone. Thus, you will get M400 concrete.

After filling, eliminate any remaining air bubbles in the mixture. To accomplish these tasks, use a construction vibrator or poke a rod into the liquid mass.

Mounting the Mauerlat

When constructing a monolithic armored belt, the rules for fastening the Mauerlat must be observed. During the installation of the reinforcement frame, vertical sections should be removed from it to the height specified in the project.

The reinforcement bars should rise above the reinforced belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. Through holes must be made in the beam equal to the diameter of the reinforcement, and threads should be cut at its ends.

So, you will get a reliable fastening, which will give you the opportunity to carry out high-quality installation of a roof of any configuration.

Reinforced belt for aerated concrete

Aerated concrete is an alternative to brick, which has high thermal insulation qualities along with low cost. Aerated concrete blocks are inferior to brick in strength.

If when installing an armored belt on brick walls it is not necessary to pour concrete, since the reinforcement is laid during the laying process, then with aerated concrete things are different.

How to make an armored belt on wooden formwork has already been discussed above, so in this subsection we will look at how to make a reinforced belt from U-shaped aerated concrete blocks D500. Although it is worth immediately noting that this technology is more expensive.

In this case, everything is extremely simple. Place the blocks on the wall as usual. Then reinforce their central part, and then fill it with concrete. Thus, the walls of your home will be more durable and reliable.

If you still have questions on the topic, then ask them to a specialist working on the site. If necessary, you can consult with our expert about filling the armored belt. Do you have personal experience? Share it with us and our readers, write comments on the article.

You can learn how to make an armored belt for a house made of aerated concrete from the video:

Source: https://kakpravilnosdelat.ru/kak-sdelat-armopoyas/

Do-it-yourself armored belt

Any house during operation is exposed to the destructive effects of various natural phenomena:

• uneven settlement;
• seasonal soil heaving;
• ground movements.

Concrete reinforcing belts, like hoops in a barrel, tighten the walls of the house. The frame of the house acquires spatial rigidity, allowing the house to more successfully withstand the elements and avoid cracking.

Design and purpose of armored belt

Reinforced belt is a monolithic reinforced concrete belt covering a brick house, aerated concrete house or others around the entire perimeter.

A system of several armored belts at different levels forms a spatial structure that promotes a more uniform distribution of loads on the walls of the house.

The main functions of reinforcement in the walls of a house:

• preserves the geometry of the wall box and prevents it from opening in the upper part;
• simplifies the task of attaching the Mauerlat to the walls;
• evenly distributes the load from the floor slabs onto the walls;
• prevents wall deformation and the formation of cracks due to uneven shrinkage of the house.

Types of armored belt

According to their location and functions, reinforcing belts are divided into:

• grillage - a monolithic reinforced concrete strip or slab that combines the heads of foundation piles into a single structure; the grillage can be recessed, raised or high;
• basement armored belt - located between the foundation and the lower part of the walls;
• the interfloor armored belt takes the load from the floor slabs;
• unloading armored belt for fastening the Mauerlat.

Why is an armored belt needed and where is it installed?

The grillage is part of the foundation and is installed under all load-bearing walls of the house.
With a pile construction, the foundation is usually located above ground level (high), combining individual foundation piles into a single structure. Evenly distributes point loads from pile heads over the entire wall box.

The raised grillage is located at ground level. Covers the upper edge of the walls of a recessed strip foundation made of blocks. It can be an integral part of a shallow strip foundation.

A recessed grillage is made between the lower edge of the walls of a recessed strip foundation and the ground surface.

The base armored belt rests directly on the foundation and fastens the lower part of the load-bearing walls of the house. Actually, it can be fully attributed to the family of armored belts quite conditionally.

The presence of doorways will not allow it to be continuous under the entire perimeter of the external walls of the house, which significantly reduces its functionality. This type of armored belt can be recommended in cases where the rigidity of a block foundation without grillages is in doubt. If there is a grillage in the foundation, it is redundant.

The interfloor reinforced belt serves as a support for the floor slabs of each floor. Must be compulsory. Prevents walls from coming apart and floor slabs from falling during the operation of the house.

The unloading armored belt evenly distributes the load from the roof onto the walls of the house. Allows you to simply and reliably attach the Mauerlat to the wall.

How to make an armored belt with your own hands?

Making armored belts with your own hands is a completely solvable task. With the correct design of the process, the result of its solution will be a reliable basis for floor beams and will bring you only positive impressions.

Sequence of actions in the manufacture of a reinforcing belt:

• installation of formwork;
• production of reinforcement frame;
• pouring concrete into formwork.

Measurements are being taken . According to the obtained dimensions, shields are made from boards on the ground. It is very convenient to use OSB strips reinforced with a frame of wooden slats.

Shields rise up the wall . The top edge of the shields is leveled. The height difference along the entire length of the grillage is no more than 1 cm. The lower edge is fixed to the wall. For fastening it is convenient to use quick installation 6x100 mm.

Particular attention should be paid to the tightness of joints and corner joints. Concrete that leaks through the cracks during pouring forms unsightly streaks on the wall and air cavities in the body of the armored belt.

After assembling and laying the reinforcement frame into the formwork, the parallel formwork panels are connected to each other by cutting boards laid across the reinforcement belt and secured with self-tapping screws.

It must be remembered that when pouring concrete, the formwork structure absorbs large static and dynamic loads. Poor fastening of the formwork elements leads to extrusion of the walls by the poured concrete. This unpleasant situation should be avoided. Properly assembled formwork has sufficient strength and rigidity. It should not bend when the weight of a person presses on it.

Manufacturing of reinforcement cage for reinforced belt

The reinforcement frame is a spatial structure of 4 – 6 longitudinally located reinforcement rods with a diameter of 12 – 14 mm, fastened together by vertical and transverse jumpers.

It is convenient to use rectangles made of reinforcing wire with a diameter of 6 mm as vertical and transverse jumpers.

Sequencing:

1. from reinforcing wire ;
2. longitudinal reinforcement bars are placed inside the rectangles
3. rectangles are distributed along the longitudinal axis of the frame in increments of 40 - 50 cm;
4. longitudinal rods and cross members are connected to each other with soft knitting wire or plastic ties;
5. the prepared reinforcement cages are lifted and placed inside the formwork.

Frame elements should not be connected using electric arc welding. The frame metal at the welding site overheats and loses its strength properties. Also, you should not try to connect the connections with thick wire and as firmly as possible.

The twists must ensure the integrity of the frame during transportation and pouring with concrete. After hardening, the concrete adheres firmly to the reinforcement. The strength of the twists has no effect on the resulting strength of the grillage.

Along the length, the rods are joined to an overlap of at least 35 - 40 diameters of the reinforcement and are fastened together with knitting wire. The rods must be joined not in one place, but in a run-up, with a certain interval from each other.

The gap between the reinforcement and the edges of the concrete must be at least 50 mm thick.

Pouring concrete into formwork

You can purchase concrete or prepare it yourself using a concrete mixer.

Concrete work with imported concrete

If it is possible for a concrete truck to drive to a construction site, it is worth considering this option. You can order high-quality concrete of the required grade. It is advisable to fill the grillage at one time, without interruptions; a concrete mixer will perfectly provide this opportunity. When pouring a grillage at a height, it is very convenient to use the services of a concrete pump.

Advice. When making concrete in a concrete mixer, try using concrete additives. This will not require large expenses, but the properties and quality of the resulting concrete will pleasantly surprise you.

Superplasticizers give the concrete mixture fluidity with less water. Concrete is easier to pour; less water provides greater strength and frost resistance.

Strengthening accelerators - after a day you can remove the formwork, after two to three days you can continue working further. Directions for use: Simply add to water when mixing concrete.

I think you should immediately refuse offers to prepare concrete with a shovel. Poor quality of concrete, non-compliance with the preparation recipe, long breaks in pouring are practically guaranteed.

During the first 24 hours after pouring, the concrete must be covered from sunlight and protected from moisture evaporation. In the future, periodically water the surface of the concrete structure with water.

Subtleties and nuances of making armored belts

The safety of operation and durability of the house you built largely depend on the correct choice of design of reinforcing belts and compliance with the technology for performing the work.

If you engage third-party specialists to carry out work on the manufacture of the grillage, first carefully study the entire sequence of actions literally step by step.

Find the time and opportunity to personally monitor the entire progress of the work, since all the shortcomings and mistakes of the workers will be hidden under a layer of concrete and will appear much later, when their correction will be very difficult or impossible.

Source: https://krovlya777.ru/stroika/armopoyas-svoimi-rukami.html

In what cases is an armored belt needed and how to make it correctly?

Remove the steel hoops from a wooden barrel and it will fall apart. Remove the reinforced belt from the house and the building will not stand for long. This is a simplified but very clear explanation of the need to strengthen walls. Anyone who is planning to build a durable house will benefit from information about the purpose, types and design of armored belts.

What is this structure and what functions does it perform? Armopoyas is a tape made of monolithic reinforced concrete, which is laid on several levels of a building under construction.

The reinforced belt is poured in the foundation, under the floor slabs and under the mauerlats (supporting beams of the rafters).

This amplification method performs four important functions:

1. Increases the spatial rigidity of the building.
2. Protects the foundation and walls from cracks caused by uneven settlement and frost heaving of the soil.
3. Prevents heavy floor slabs from pushing through fragile gas and foam concrete.
4. Reliably connects the roof truss system with walls made of light blocks.

Reinforced concrete has been and remains the main material for increasing the rigidity of walls. For small outbuildings, you can use a less powerful brick armored belt. It consists of 4-5 rows of brickwork, the width of which is equal to the width of the load-bearing wall. In the seam of each row, a mesh with a cell of 30-40 mm made of steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm is placed on the mortar.

For walls

Reinforcing walls with a reinforced belt is not always required. Therefore, there is no need to waste money on its device in the following cases:

• under the base of the foundation lies a strong soil (rocky, coarse clastic or coarse sand, not saturated with water);
• the walls are built of brick;
• a one-story house is being built, which is covered with wooden beams rather than reinforced concrete panels.

If the site contains weak soils (pulverized sand, loam, clay, loess, peat), then the answer to the question of whether a reinforcing belt is needed is obvious. You cannot do without it even when the walls are built from expanded clay concrete or cellular blocks (foam or aerated concrete).

These are fragile materials. They cannot withstand ground movements and point loads from interfloor floor slabs. The armored belt eliminates the risk of wall deformation and evenly distributes the load from the slabs onto the blocks.

For arbolite blocks (the wall thickness is not less than 30 cm, and the strength grade is not lower than B2.5), an armored belt is not needed.

For Mauerlat

The wooden beam on which the rafters rest is called the Mauerlat. It cannot push through the foam block, so someone may think that an armored belt is not needed under it. However, the correct answer to this question depends on the material from which the house is built. Fastening the Mauerlat without an armored belt is allowed for brick walls. They securely hold the anchors with which the Mauerlat is attached to them.

If we are dealing with light blocks, then the armored belt will have to be filled. It is impossible to securely fix anchors in aerated concrete, foam concrete and expanded clay blocks. Therefore, a very strong wind can tear the Mauerlat from the wall along with the roof.

For the foundation

Here the approach to the amplification problem does not change. If the foundation is assembled from FBS blocks, then an armored belt is definitely necessary. Moreover, it must be done at two levels: at the level of the sole (base) of the foundation and at its upper cut. This solution will protect the structure from intense loads arising during the rise and settlement of the soil.

Rubble concrete strip foundations also require reinforcement with a reinforced belt, at least at the level of the sole. Rubble concrete is an economical material, but not resistant to soil movements, so it needs reinforcement. But a monolithic “tape” does not need an armored belt, since its basis is a steel three-dimensional frame.

There is no need for this design for a solid foundation slab, which is poured under buildings on soft soils.

What types of interfloor ceilings require an armored belt?

Under panels that rest on expanded clay concrete blocks, gas or foam concrete, a reinforced belt must be made.

It does not need to be poured under a monolithic reinforced concrete floor, since it evenly transfers the load to the walls and firmly connects them into a single spatial structure.

An armored belt for a wooden floor that rests on light blocks (aerated concrete, expanded clay, foam concrete) is not required. In this case, it will be enough to pour concrete support platforms 4-6 cm thick under the beams to eliminate the risk of pushing through the blocks.

Someone may object to us, pointing out a number of cases when the reinforced belt is poured under the wooden floor of the floor. However, in this case, reinforcement is required not because wooden beams on concrete pads are capable of pushing through the masonry, but to increase the spatial rigidity of the building frame.

How to make an armored belt correctly?

The technology for constructing a reinforced stiffening belt is no different from the method of pouring a monolithic foundation.

In general, it consists of three operations:

• Manufacturing of reinforcement frame;
• Installation of formwork;
• Pouring concrete.

Certain subtleties and nuances in the work appear depending on the area where the armored belt is located.

Reinforced belt under the foundation

Answering the question of how to make a reinforced belt under the foundation (level 1), let’s say that its width should be 30-40 cm greater than the width of the supporting part of the main concrete “ribbon”. This will significantly reduce the pressure of the building on the ground. Depending on the number of storeys of the house, the thickness of such a stiffening belt can be from 40 to 50 cm.

The reinforced belt of the first level is made for all load-bearing walls of the building, and not just for the external ones. The frame for it is made by knitting reinforcement clamps. Welding is used only for preliminary connection (tack welding) of the main reinforcement into a common spatial structure.

It is recommended to fill such a belt with concrete in one step to eliminate joints that reduce strength. The diameter of the main reinforcement can be from 16 to 20 mm. The diameter of the transverse clamps is 8-10 mm, and their pitch is no more than 20 cm.

Armoyas of the second level (on the foundation)

This structure is essentially a continuation of the strip foundation (rubber concrete, block). To reinforce it, it is enough to use 4 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm, tying them with clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm.

If the main foundation is rubble concrete, then there are no problems with installing the formwork under the armored belt. To do this, you need to leave free space in it (20-30 cm) for installing the reinforcement cage, taking into account the protective layer of concrete (3-4 cm).

The situation with FBS blocks is more complicated, since formwork is not installed for them. In this case, wooden spacers should be used, which support the formwork panels from below. Before installation, cut boards are stuffed onto the boards, which protrude 20-30 cm beyond the dimensions of the formwork and prevent the structure from moving to the right or left. To connect the formwork panels, short crossbars are nailed to the top of the boards.

Option for attaching armored belt formwork to foundation blocks

The fastening system can be simplified by using threaded rods. They are placed in pairs in the formwork panels at a distance of 50-60 cm. By tightening the studs with nuts, we get a sufficiently strong and stable structure for pouring concrete without wooden supports and crossbars.

This system is also suitable for formwork, which requires an armored belt for floor slabs.

The studs that will be filled with concrete need to be wrapped in glassine or a little machine oil applied to them. This will make it easier to remove them from the concrete after it has hardened.

Reinforced belt for floor slabs

Ideally, its width should be equal to the width of the wall. This can be done in the case when the facade is completely lined with slab insulation. If it is decided to use only plaster mortar for decoration, then the width of the armored belt will have to be reduced by 4-5 centimeters in order to leave room for foam plastic or mineral wool. Otherwise, a through cold bridge of very substantial dimensions will appear in the area where the stiffening belt is laid.

When making an armored belt on aerated concrete, you can use another solution. It consists of installing two thin blocks along the edges of the masonry. A steel frame is placed in the space between them and concrete is poured. The blocks act as formwork and insulate the belt.

If the thickness of the aerated concrete wall is 40 cm, then partition blocks 10 cm thick can be used for this purpose.

If the wall thickness is smaller, you can cut out a cavity for an armored belt in a standard masonry block with your own hands or buy a ready-made aerated concrete U-block.

Reinforced belt under the Mauerlat

a feature in which the armored belt under the Mauerlat differs from other types of reinforcement is the presence of anchor pins in it. With their help, the beam is firmly fixed to the wall without the risk of tearing off or shifting under the influence of wind loads.

The width and height of the reinforcement frame must be such that after embedding the structure between the metal and the outer surface of the belt, at least 3-4 cm of a protective layer of concrete remains on all sides.

Source: https://greensector.ru/stroitelstvo-i-remont/v-kakikh-sluchayakh-nuzhen-armopoyas-i-kak-ego-pravilno-sdelat.html

Reinforcement of an armored belt on aerated concrete, important tips

The reinforcement in the reinforced belt consists of working reinforcement (10-12mm), and structural reinforcement of a smaller diameter (frame - 6mm). Often, reinforcement is made of 4 or 6 rods. In this article we will describe in detail and show reinforcement schemes, methods of bending reinforcement and other nuances of the reinforced belt.

Reinforcement frame for armored belt

The reinforcement frame is needed in order to fix the working reinforcement in the correct position. That is, two or three bars of reinforcement at the bottom of the reinforced belt, and two bars at the top.

For a frame, fittings with a diameter of 6 mm are quite suitable; you can even use thick wire.

The size of the frame should correspond to the thickness of your wall, taking into account the insulation and protective layer of concrete. Extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm is best suited as insulation.

Often the frame has edge dimensions of approximately 120-200 mm.

Such square frames can be easily made in the following way.

We take a board (20-50 mm thick. 200 mm wide), draw a square, for example, 150 by 150 mm, drill a hole in the corners of the square.

The holes should be about 9mm so that the 10mm reinforcement fits tightly. The reinforcing bars themselves should be about half a meter long.

Place the board on the ground, hammer four reinforcing bars through the holes of the board into the ground. The template for bending the frames is ready. It is more convenient to bend the reinforcement along the frame using a pipe. For such a frame, the reinforcement blanks should be about 600 mm long.

Working fittings of the armored belt

The working reinforcement is a thick ribbed wire with a diameter of 10 mm, preferably 12 mm. The working reinforcement in the armored belt works in bending, creating high rigidity of the structure. The reinforcement must be continuous (circular) and pass over all load-bearing walls. If the building has very long openings, then the places of the reinforced belt above the openings need to be reinforced with an additional lower reinforcement bar.

The working fittings must be inside the frame, and are tied to the frames with ordinary binding wire; welding is not needed here.

1. The height of the armored belt is made from 200 to 300 mm. 
2. The distance between frames should be from 200 to 400mm.
3. The overlap of the reinforcing bars should be 500 mm.
4. To reduce the consumption of reinforcement, it is better to use longer rods to reduce the number of overlaps.
5. Do not forget about the protective layer of concrete, which should be 40 mm on all sides.

At the corners, be sure to bend the working reinforcement and use additional reinforcement clamps, see the diagram below. It is convenient to bend the reinforcement using a long pipe.

Scheme of an armored belt under the Mauerlat

It is also worth noting that it is better to install the reinforcement cage at the place where it is poured, since when assembled it will weigh a lot.

The formwork must be strong enough to withstand the pressure of the concrete. Pay special attention to leveling the formwork along all planes.

For the armored belt, it is recommended to use thick concrete grade M300, followed by compaction with a vibrator. Filling must be done continuously, at one time.

If you don’t have a professional tool for vibrating concrete, you can use the following method: take a hammer drill and hit the reinforcement in hammer mode, the concrete is compacted and air bubbles come out.

We highly recommend watching the video from self-builder Konstantin, who is working on the armored belt in this series, enjoy watching.

Source: http://stroy-gazobeton.ru/35-armirovanie-armopoyasa-na-gazobeton

Armopoyas: step-by-step construction with your own hands

In the construction of private residential buildings made of block materials (brick, aerated concrete and others), an armored belt is always provided for additional protection against movement and deformation of walls and load-bearing structures. This reinforced concrete structure, installed along the entire perimeter of the building, reduces and redistributes external and internal stresses on the walls and foundation that arise as a result of seismic activity and ground movements, exposure to wind, and stresses from the internal structures of the house.

Armobelt using the example of a house or extension made of aerated concrete

Due to probable changes in the soil and the internal structure of the building, walls in different areas of the house may receive different levels of loads, causing compression and torsion of the material. If the load reaches critical values, cracks form.

For low one-story houses, the foundation can serve as an armored belt quite well. But with a significant height of the walls (two or more floors), critical loads are created in the upper part, for the even redistribution of which a special additional structure is needed - a concrete belt with metal reinforcement. Its presence increases wind protection for the walls of the house and the bursting loads from the mass of the upper floor and roof.

Existing practice in construction proves that the width of the armored belt is quite sufficient if it corresponds to the thickness of the wall. The height can vary in the range of 150-300 millimeters. Profiled metal (angle, single-T or I-beams, reinforcement) can be used for the structure. Note that the armored belt itself in such a house or in an extension made of aerated concrete performs the functions of an I-beam that can withstand stress more than anything else.

Armobelt under the Mauerlat

The functions of the armored belt under the Mauerlat are the same - ensuring the strength and reliability of the wall structure. Design features in its size. As a rule, the minimum cross-section is 250 x 250 mm, and the height should not be greater than the width of the wall.

The main requirement is continuity of the structure and equal strength along the entire perimeter of the walls of the house: at a minimum, the armored belt must be monolithic.

In order to achieve continuity, it is recommended to use concrete of the same grade (at least M250) for pouring.

Attaching the Mauerlat to the armored belt

The easiest way to attach the Mauerlat to the armored belt is with threaded studs. The diameter of the studs should be 10-14 mm. Cross members must be welded at the base.

When using raw concrete to fill the armored belt under the Mauerlat, care should be taken to place the studs in advance:

• they should be rolled in advance to the reinforcement cage placed inside the concrete;
• the distance between the studs must be the same;
• to prevent concrete from contaminating the threads in the outer part of the studs, they must be covered with cellophane and wrapped with wire;
• that part of the studs that will be inside the concrete should be protected from corrosion - paint is quite suitable for this (oil-based or nitro-based - it doesn’t matter, you can also use primer).

The outer part (length) of the studs must be sufficient so that, in addition to the Mauerlat itself, two nuts and a washer can be screwed to them. Ideally, the places where the Mauerlat is attached to the armored belt should be located as accurately as possible in the middle between the rafter structures. At the very least, the rafter legs should not coincide with the studs, otherwise you will get additional problems when installing the roof, so you should pay attention to the accuracy of marking and installation in advance.

Brick armored belt (video)

A brick reinforced belt is a regular brickwork reinforced with reinforcing mesh. Sometimes, to enhance strength, bricks are placed not horizontally, but vertically on the ends. However, many craftsmen recommend making a brick armored belt only in conjunction with full reinforcement of the wall with a reinforced concrete belt.

Formwork for armored belt

To install the formwork, which is mandatory when pouring a concrete reinforced belt, you can use:

• factory structures (offered for rent by many construction companies);
• polystyrene (fine porosity foam);
• prefabricated panel formwork made of boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB.

Considering that the filling of the reinforced belt must be uniform and carried out simultaneously along the entire perimeter of the structure of the walls of the house, the formwork must also be installed in advance throughout the entire facility.

It should be noted that the upper part of the formwork must ensure a perfectly horizontal position for the reinforced belt (this is especially important when it is necessary to correct flaws in the masonry of walls). Therefore, when constructing the formwork for concreting the reinforced belt, a water level should be used.

Armobelt under the roof

The functions of the armored roof belt can be formulated in the following points:

• ensuring strict geometry of the building box during shrinkage of the wall structure due to seasonal changes in the soil;
• rigidity and stability of the building;
• dispersal and uniform distribution of loads from the roof onto the frame of the house.

The armored belt under the roof also performs the function of providing the possibility of firmly fastening the mauelat and rafter system, installing a ceiling (including reinforced concrete slabs) between the upper floor and the attic of the house.

Fittings for armored belt

The reinforcing mesh (frame) for the reinforced belt is necessary to strengthen and give greater strength to the concrete structure. It can have a square or rectangular cross-section. Consists of four working longitudinal rods and intermediate jumpers.

To fasten the reinforcement together, electric welding or binding wire is used. The optimal diameter of the reinforcement is 10-12 mm. To increase rigidity, a separate rod is placed inside the reinforcement frame. Longitudinal jumpers are fastened together every 200-400 mm. To stiffen the corners of the armored belt, an additional bent rod is inserted at a distance of approximately 1500 mm in each direction from the corner of the wall.

The development of technology has given builders a new type of reinforcement - made of composite materials. Its use is more relevant because it does not cause corrosion of the metal inside the concrete.

Composition of concrete for armored belt

As we said above, concrete grade M250 and higher is suitable for the armored belt. The structure must be poured continuously, so it is more advisable to order the delivery of the required quantity in advance using mixers at the nearest concrete plant.

Otherwise you will need:

• two concrete mixers;
• sand;
• cement (recommended at least grade M400);
• gravel or crushed stone;
• water.

Two concrete mixers will be needed to ensure continuity of pouring the armored belt with fresh concrete. A specialist in preparing the concrete mixture and a number of auxiliary workers will also be needed to load concrete mixers and carry the finished concrete to the installation site of the reinforced belt.