How to make perfume from rose water at home: I have been using this method for many years
Rose water perfume is made from rose petals. I regularly make this perfume at home. This requires you to first make rose water from the petals and then diffuse it like a delicate perfume using the correct packaging. I tried two approaches to this: cold and hot methods. The latter allows you to release a more intense aroma, but requires more effort.
What will you need for this?
To prepare a homemade perfume using the cold method, you will need the following:
- fresh rose petals, a small handful;
- plastic water bottle.
To use the hot method at home, you need the following:
- rose petals (about a dozen or more);
- distilled water;
- large saucepan or kettle;
- two bricks.
For finished rose water in both cases you will need:
- bottle or spray bottle;
- decorative elements for the container (optional).
Cold cooking method
Take a handful of fresh rose petals. Choose fragrant flowers - the stronger they smell, the more fragrant the perfume will be.
Place the petals in a plastic water bottle. Be sure to rinse the container thoroughly before use.
Fill the bottle with water. Let the petals remain inside it, leave them like that all night.
Check the condition of the mixture the next day.
The water should turn pink and the rose petals should be white or discolored.
Use a dropper or syringe to transfer the water into the perfume spray bottle. Now the perfume is ready to use.
Hot cooking method
Pick petals from 12 fresh roses. Choose the most fragrant flowers you can find.
Place a large pan on the stove, place two bricks in the bottom and place petals between them.
Then pour in enough distilled water to cover all the petals.
Place a glass bowl on top of the bricks. Place the lid of the pot upside down, bring the water to a boil and let it simmer. The inverted lid will catch condensation as the water boils and drops fall into the glass container. Add ice cubes on top of the lid to speed up this process.
Turn off the heat when the water has evaporated or after thirty minutes. Let the rose water sit for a while so it can cool down.
Using a dropper or syringe, transfer any rose water accumulated in the glass container to a perfume spray bottle and close the lid. You now have a beautiful distilled rose water perfume.
How to store this product
The container in which you intend to store rose water can be glass or plastic - it doesn't matter. The main thing is that it is equipped with a perfume spray. Decorate the bottle as you wish if you wish.
Store rosewater perfumes in the refrigerator. It is advisable to use them within 3 weeks after preparation.
How to use the prepared product
Homemade rose water can be used for skin care. It has a very delicate aroma of this flower and is perfect as a perfume. However, its smell evaporates over time, so you may have to repeat the cooking process often.
How to make the most fragrant perfume
You should experiment with different essential oils and scents until you find the ones you like best. Do you prefer light citrus, sweet floral or deep woody? Determine what you love most.
Smell is very subjective—what smells good to one person may smell terrible to another. Also, you need to know what smells good on you. Chemical processes occurring in the body greatly affect odors.
Once you know which notes you like, you can start experimenting with many blends. This process can be quite labor-intensive, although fun. This is why we pay big money to the manufacturers of luxury perfume brands (for example, Chanel).
Just experiment and explore. Learn the basic blends and bouquets of aromas and don't be afraid to mix them together. Your sense of smell will immediately determine what you like. However, always use very small amounts of other additives or the rose scent will be completely overwhelmed.
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Source: https://www.syl.ru/post/style/175599
How to solder stainless steel: technology for brazing stainless steel - SibNovStroy
Soldering stainless steel is a rather labor-intensive procedure, but it will not cause any special problems if you know all the features of its implementation.
With significantly less labor, it is possible to solder stainless steel alloys that contain no more than 25% chromium and nickel.
Moreover, soldering stainless steel with such a chemical composition allows you to obtain reliable connections of products from dissimilar metals, excluding alloys with magnesium and aluminum.
Solder repaired bicycle frame
Soldering stainless steel, which contains a significant amount of nickel, can be difficult. This is due to the fact that in such alloys, when heated to a temperature of 500–700°, carbide compounds appear. The intensity of the formation of such connections depends on the duration of heating, so soldering should be performed as quickly as possible.
To minimize the risk of the formation of carbide compounds in the stainless steel structure during soldering, titanium is added to the alloy composition, and after the joint is formed, the product is subjected to heat treatment.
You should be very careful when soldering cold-worked stainless steels, the surface of which may become cracked under the influence of heated solder. To avoid such consequences, it is necessary to eliminate the load on the parts being connected during the soldering process.
In addition, it is possible to pre-anneal the products being joined.
Use a gas torch for annealing.
The choice of solder with which to solder stainless steel is influenced by both the chemical composition of the alloy and the process conditions.
So, if this process is carried out at high ambient humidity, then silver alloys should be used, which contain a small amount of nickel.
Soldering in an oven, as well as in a relatively dry atmosphere, is performed using chromium-nickel and silver-manganese solders.
The most common type of flux used when soldering stainless steel is borax, applied to the future joint in the form of a paste or powder.
Melting borax on the surface of the parts being joined contributes to uniform and most accurate heating of the area of the future seam to the required temperature - 850°.
Only after the required heating temperature has been reached, which can be determined by the color change of the future joint to light red, is solder introduced into the joint between the parts.
The flux is applied in an even layer over the entire surface, which must first be cleaned.
After soldering is completed, flux residues are present at the joint, which are removed by washing with water or sandblasting. To perform this procedure, you cannot use nitric or hydrochloric acids, which, although they effectively clean the flux remaining on the surface of the parts, have a negative effect on both the base metal and the used solder.
How to do soldering at home
Problems such as joining stainless steel parts using soldering and soldering stainless steel to copper are often encountered at home.
Products made of stainless steel have been actively used in everyday life for many years, therefore, when for some reason they become unusable, any home craftsman has a natural desire to repair them himself.
It should be said right away that soldering stainless steel parts is not so difficult, the main thing is to strictly adhere to the technology, as well as stock up on the appropriate tools and consumables.
Master the soldering technique on simple connections, and then try working with more critical parts
Before you start soldering stainless steel, it is very advisable not only to study the theoretical material on this issue, but also to become more familiar with the rules for its implementation using training videos.
To solder stainless steel products, you will need the following tools and consumables:
- a soldering iron powered by electricity with a power of at least 100 W;
- special soldering acid, which will be used as a flux;
- file or sandpaper;
- solder, specially designed for joining steel parts, based on tin and lead;
- cable made of steel;
- metal tube.
Soldering materials and tools
The process of soldering stainless steel parts is carried out according to the following algorithm.
- First of all, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the area of the future connection, for which sandpaper or a file is used.
- After preparing the surfaces of the parts to be joined, it is necessary to apply flux to them, which, as mentioned above, uses soldering acid. The main task of the flux is to ensure high-quality tinning of the parts to be joined.
- After the surfaces of the parts to be joined are treated with flux, it is necessary to tinning them, which consists of applying a thin layer of solder consisting of tin and lead to them. If tinning was not successful the first time, then it is necessary to repeat this procedure, preheating the parts to be joined.
- Even after heating the products and re-processing them with flux, tinning may not be successful - the solder will simply roll off the surface of the parts, rather than lie on them as a thin film. In this case, you need to use a brush with metal wires, which can be easily made from a tube and steel cable. Before using such a brush, it is also necessary to apply flux (soldering acid) to the surface of the parts and only then, heating the future joint with a soldering iron, clean it with a metal brush. This simple technique allows you to effectively clean the surface of a stainless steel from an oxide film, which, as a rule, is the main obstacle to high-quality tinning.
- Once a thin layer of tin has been applied to the products to be joined, you can begin to solder them. This procedure is performed using a soldering iron and solder, which is used to fill the joint between the parts.
Solder Types
Stainless steel products can be soldered with both soft solders made on the basis of tin and lead, and hard types of filler material, which includes more refractory metals.
Soft solder, due to the fact that it is based on tin, is a low-melting material characterized by high ductility and fluidity in the molten state. What is especially important when soldering stainless steel products is that it has good deoxidizing ability.
Properties of soft solders
More reliable connections both in production and at home can be achieved by soldering using hard solders.
The metals from which they are made melt at a higher temperature than tin, which makes it possible to obtain reliable and durable connections with their help.
Very often, materials of this type are produced on the basis of technical silver, which can contain up to 30% in their composition.
Main brands of silver solders
One of the popular types of hard solder is the HTS-528 material, which is successfully used for soldering not only stainless steel, but also copper, brass, bronze, nickel and other metals.
Conveniently, it is produced in the form of a rod, the surface of which is already covered with a layer of flux.
When working with such solder in a production environment or at home, you should keep in mind that its melting point is 760°.
HTS-528 solder is a rod coated with red flux. In addition to stainless steel, it is suitable for cast iron and non-ferrous metals
Flux preparation
When soldering stainless steel, you should be very careful about choosing a ready-made flux or the recipe for making it yourself. The classic flux composition, which can be prepared at home, includes the following components:
- borax (70%);
- boric acid (20%);
- calcium fluoride (10%).
For soldering small-sized products, you can prepare a flux that will consist only of borax and boric acid mixed in equal proportions. Having mixed the components of the flux in dry form, it must be diluted with water and treated with the resulting solution at the site of the future connection.
Useful tips
To perform stainless steel soldering efficiently, you should use the recommendations of experienced specialists.
- The power of a soldering iron, which must effectively heat the metal being joined, is in the range of 60–100 W, but it is better to opt for a 100-watt device. To solder large parts, such as stainless steel pipes, you will need a gas torch rather than an electric soldering iron.
- When choosing an electric soldering iron, it is better to opt for models equipped with tips that do not burn.
- The most economical and universal type of solder, which makes it possible to obtain high-quality connections for stainless steel products, is tin-lead rods. If you are soldering dishes that will come into contact with food or liquids, it is better to use pure tin as solder, which does not contain harmful impurities.
- The room in which soldering work is carried out must be well ventilated.
- When performing soldering, be sure to use personal protective equipment so as not to harm your health.
What else you should know about soldering stainless steel
In cases where special requirements are imposed on soldered joints of stainless steel products, special grades of solders can be used, which include materials based on nickel and phosphorus, as well as nickel, chromium and manganese.
Solders of the second group are used, in particular, in cases where soldering is performed in a protective gas environment consisting of a mixture of argon and boron trifluoride.
When performing soldering using this technology, pure copper can be used as solder, which wets the metal well and forms a reliable connection.
When using copper solder, the soldering area will differ from stainless steel in a characteristic yellow color
Nickel-based solders make it possible to obtain joints with high strength. However, such materials also have disadvantages, which include low ductility.
That is why such filler material is not used to connect stainless steel structural elements that will be subject to shock and vibration loads during their operation. In addition, a soldered seam made of such a material is very critical to low temperatures.
Soldering with nickel group solders, which melt at temperatures exceeding 1000°, can be performed in dry hydrogen, argon and vacuum.
Thus, soldering stainless steel products (large pipes operated under pressure, dishes, pieces of furniture or interior design) has its own nuances, which must be taken into account when choosing both soldering modes and consumables. There are many reference books, guided by which, you can optimally select all the necessary materials and obtain a high-quality, reliable and beautiful soldered connection.
Source: https://sibnovostroy.ru/oborudovanie/kak-payat-nerzhavejku-tehnologiya-pajki-nerzhavejki-tverdym-pripoem.html
How to solder stainless steel at home with a soldering iron
Soldering stainless steel is a rather labor-intensive procedure, but it will not cause any special problems if you know all the features of its implementation. With significantly less labor, it is possible to solder stainless steel alloys that contain no more than 25% chromium and nickel. Moreover, soldering stainless steel with such a chemical composition allows you to obtain reliable connections of products from dissimilar metals, excluding alloys with magnesium and aluminum.
Solder repaired bicycle frame
Soldering stainless steel, which contains a significant amount of nickel, can be difficult. This is due to the fact that in such alloys, when heated to a temperature of 500–700°, carbide compounds appear. The intensity of the formation of such connections depends on the duration of heating, so soldering should be performed as quickly as possible.
To minimize the risk of the formation of carbide compounds in the stainless steel structure during soldering, titanium is added to the alloy composition, and after the joint is formed, the product is subjected to heat treatment.
You should be very careful when soldering cold-worked stainless steels, the surface of which may become cracked under the influence of heated solder. To avoid such consequences, it is necessary to eliminate the load on the parts being connected during the soldering process.
In addition, it is possible to pre-anneal the products being joined.
Use a gas torch for annealing.
The choice of solder with which to solder stainless steel is influenced by both the chemical composition of the alloy and the process conditions. So, if this process is carried out at high ambient humidity, then silver alloys should be used, which contain a small amount of nickel. Soldering in an oven, as well as in a relatively dry atmosphere, is performed using chromium-nickel and silver-manganese solders.
The most common type of flux used when soldering stainless steel is borax, applied to the future joint in the form of a paste or powder.
Melting borax on the surface of the parts being joined contributes to uniform and most accurate heating of the area of the future seam to the required temperature - 850°.
Only after the required heating temperature has been reached, which can be determined by the color change of the future joint to light red, is solder introduced into the joint between the parts.
The flux is applied in an even layer over the entire surface, which must first be cleaned.
After soldering is completed, flux residues are present at the joint, which are removed by washing with water or sandblasting. To perform this procedure, you cannot use nitric or hydrochloric acids, which, although they effectively clean the flux remaining on the surface of the parts, have a negative effect on both the base metal and the used solder.
How to solder stainless steel at home? — Machine tools, welding, metalworking
Soldering stainless steel is quite a complex and difficult job. To make a high-quality connection, you need to comply with many conditions - both in the choice of materials and in the soldering modes. It is somewhat easier to solder alloys containing up to 25% Ni or Cr. They can also be soldered to other metals and alloys, with the exception of Al and Mg. DIYers most often use tin solders.
Soldering stainless steel
Features of stainless steel soldering
Using tin and compounds based on it, you can repair stainless steel products, as well as assemble homemade structures that are small in size and not subject to heavy loads. Kitchenware and other household items can be repaired with a regular soldering iron and tin solder.
Soldering of stainless steel in production is performed using a more complex technology. For soldering of critical structures, special industrial mixtures containing Cr < Ni, Mn, chromium, nickel, and manganese are used. You have to work with them in a protective gas atmosphere - argon with the addition of boron trifluoride. Pure copper is used as solder when soldering stainless steel.
Equipment used
In order to properly repair products, you need to prepare materials, equipment and study technology. To solder stainless steel in a workshop at home, you will need:
- electric soldering iron with a power of 100 W (portable propane torch);
- flux;
- degreaser (solvent);
- abrasive paper, wire brush, needle file;
- tin solder;
- rags;
- protective equipment: gloves, respirator, safety glasses or transparent face shield.
Portable propane torch
In addition, for the initial heating of massive workpieces, a more powerful soldering iron may be needed. Phosphoric acid provides high-quality surface cleaning and rapid coagulation.
Advantages of soldering stainless steel with tin
The use of soft tin-based compounds provides the following advantages:
- ease of soldering operations for small objects;
- short preparation;
- availability of soldering materials;
- Sufficient soldering quality for not the most critical parts.
Soldering stainless steel with tin
Soldering with soft tin compounds can be quickly mastered by a home craftsman.
Disadvantages of soldering stainless steel with tin
In addition to the advantages, soldering stainless steel with tin also has disadvantages
- low connection strength;
- lowering the maximum operating temperature of sealed items to the plasticity temperature of tin;
- difficulties during soldering caused by the high fluidity of tin.
Due to its high fluidity, it is difficult to seal seams on vertical and inclined surfaces.
Tin soldering modes
The soldering modes recommended by experienced specialists are as follows:
- Burner temperature: 232-240 °C;
- Soldering iron power 80-120 Watt;
- Warm-up time 5-10 seconds;
- The thickness of the solder bar is 2-4 mm.
It is convenient to control the flame temperature with a pyrometer.
Preparation of equipment and necessary materials
When preparing equipment, it is important to pay attention to the characteristics and design features of the soldering iron. Its power is at least 80-110 watts; weaker devices will not be able to provide sufficient heating of the working area. The sting must be fireproof.
You can work with a soldering iron using soft, low-melting solders - rods made of pure tin or from mixtures like POS. Pure tin will be needed when repairing kitchen utensils and vessels that come into contact with food or drinking water. It does not contain harmful components.
The most suitable flux for such dishes is phosphoric acid.
For hard solders you will have to use a gas torch.
Selection of solder and auxiliary materials
The correct choice of composition allows high-quality soldering of stainless steel parts. Such a connection will be reliable and durable. The most common types of soldering compounds are tin-lead POS grades. For soldering work on stainless steel, experts recommend:
- POS50Kd18 (with the addition of cadmium);
- POS-61;
- POS-40.
Only clean tin should be used to repair items that come into contact with food. Not every flux is suitable for stainless steel.
Solder POS-61 Phosphoric and soldering acids
Commonly used:
- soldering acid;
- orthophosphoric acid ;
- zinc chloride.
It is necessary to apply flux immediately before soldering, so that the oxide film does not have time to re-form.
Interesting: Phosphoric acid is part of Coca-Cola. A good reason to think about whether you should drink it.
Technology of soldering stainless steel with tin
It is very important to carry out the preparatory operations correctly and carefully. Their purpose is to remove oxide film and other contaminants from the surface of the stainless steel that prevent the formation of a strong and durable solder joint.
How to make edible paper at home?
First, the surface is protected with sandpaper, a wire brush or a file. Next, after removing sawdust and abrasive particles, degreasing is carried out. To do this, take a special degreaser.
It can be successfully replaced by any organic solvent - acetone, white spirit, numbered solvents (646, 657), etc.
Immediately after degreasing, the soldering area is coated with a flux compound. (If flux is included in the solder rod, this step is not performed.)
Now the actual tin soldering begins. First, the soldering area is heated using a soldering iron tip or a gas torch. When soldering with a torch, the oxygen content should be monitored, since if it is in excess, oxidation processes will begin, deteriorating the quality of the connection. When the permissible oxygen concentration is exceeded, the flame acquires a light blue tint.
The principle of soldering stainless steel
The entire soldering area should be heated to the melting temperature of the solder.
Important! The solder should melt not from the tip of a soldering iron or the torch of a gas burner, but from the heat stored in the parts being soldered.
Solder must be supplied to the working area until it begins to appear from the working gaps between the workpieces. This will ensure optimal adhesion.
Soldering stainless steel at home
It often happens that a home handyman needs to repair household utensils and stainless steel dishes. To do this, it is necessary to prepare a certain set of equipment, as well as working and auxiliary materials.
In order to quickly and efficiently repair stainless steel products, you will also need to acquire a certain skill. Therefore, you should not immediately take on the repair of complex or large-sized products.
To get better at “feeling metal and fire,” it’s better to practice on spoons, mugs, or just scraps of stainless steel.
Soldering stainless steel at home
To work, you will need to equip a workplace. The work table must be metal or have a non-flammable coating. Exhaust ventilation must be equipped - both the fumes from the soldering compound and the flux and degreaser are harmful to the respiratory system. The parts to be soldered must be securely fastened with inventory fastening devices - vices, clamps, clamps, spacers.
The work area should not be cluttered; only parts to be soldered may be contained in it.
Containers with working fluids should be tightly closed immediately after use and stored in a cabinet or bedside table.
It is necessary to carefully follow the technology for performing the work. If the processing is carried out poorly and the solder does not stick to the surface of the parts, it is necessary to stop soldering and repeat mechanical processing and degreasing. After degreasing, you can handle parts only with thick gloves - even a small sweat stain left by your fingers can ruin the work.
You can make your own wire brush for stripping. To do this, wires obtained from a piece of metal cable must be tightly inserted into a piece of pipe with a diameter of 5-10 millimeters and a length of about 10 cm.
They should protrude from the tube by a few millimeters.
For small soldering areas of stainless steel, and especially in narrow and hard-to-reach places, such a homemade product is much more convenient and effective than purchased brushes with a wooden handle.
This brush can be used to work in close proximity to a soldering iron or burner flame, minimizing the time between stripping and the start of soldering.
Soldering with a gas torch
The burner is moved smoothly, heating the metal evenly. The solder rod should melt not from the flame of the burner, but from the heat of the workpiece - only then will a strong and reliable connection be obtained. After applying the rod to the joint area, it is necessary to further heat the workpieces so that it completely penetrates into all the gaps and fills them. Heating is continued until excess soldering compound begins to flow out of the joint.
Common Mistakes
The most common mistake when soldering stainless steel is
- poor cleaning;
- insufficient defatting;
- insufficient heating of the parts, as a result of which the solder did not penetrate into all the gaps and did not connect them.
It is necessary to periodically clean the soldering iron tip.
Do not solder with compounds containing high lead content or use rosin.
You can check the quality of the connection by trying to pick it with an awl or screwdriver. A reliable connection can only be scratched; it will not be possible to peel off the solder from the stainless steel.
Cleaning stainless steel after soldering
After the soldering has cooled, clean off any remaining soldering compound and flux. Stainless steel food utensils should be washed with warm soapy water and boiled before use.
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Source: https://stanki-info.com/kak-payat-nerzhaveyku-v-domashnih-usloviyah/
How to solder stainless steel at home - Metalworker's Guide
Soldering stainless steel is quite a complex and difficult job. To make a high-quality connection, you need to comply with many conditions - both in the choice of materials and in the soldering modes. It is somewhat easier to solder alloys containing up to 25% Ni or Cr. They can also be soldered to other metals and alloys, with the exception of Al and Mg. DIYers most often use tin solders.
Soldering stainless steel
