How to sharpen knives on a jointer

Table of knife sharpening angles: how to sharpen a knife correctly

instrument.guru > Knives > Table of knife sharpening angles: how to sharpen a knife correctly

A knife is one of the oldest tools created by mankind and is indispensable in the household. Knives come in different types, are designed for different things, and are made from different types of steel. But most products have one thing in common: they require sharpening. If you do not sharpen the blade for a long time, it becomes dull and ceases to perform its functions well. In order to sharpen a knife in a timely manner and not spoil it in the process, you need to know the rules of how this is done.

• Kitchen tools
• Blade shapes
• Dulling and sharpening the blade
• How to determine the sharpening angle of a knife

Kitchen tools

The most commonly used and indispensable type of knife at home is the kitchen knife. At home, various knives are used, depending on the hobby and desires of the owner. Professional kitchen tools are used in professional kitchens of restaurants and cafes. This is a whole range of blades, different in shape and function. They also differ in the material from which they are made.

The most common materials:

1. Carbon steel is an alloy of iron and carbon, to which vanadium or manganese is also added. Over time, these blades may rust or become stained. They sharpen very well.
2. Stainless steel is an alloy of iron, carbon and chromium to which molybdenum or nickel has been added. Such blades require constant sharpening; if the blade becomes dull, the knife becomes unusable.
3. High carbon stainless steel is a combination of carbon and stainless steel, with the addition of vanadium, molybdenum and cobalt. Strength is increased, sharpness retention time is increased.
4. Damascus steel is a forge of different types of metal, where hard and soft alloys alternate. The material is expensive and is usually used by professionals. Hunting knives, collectible blades and razors are often made from it. Such blades are sharpened only by hand and along the edge.
5. Titanium alloy - made by sintering a titanium powder matrix with carbide inserts. It does not require sharpening for an extremely long time, but it needs careful handling and requires skills in working with itself and a professional sharpening machine.
6. Zirconium alloy is a hard mineral ceramic that has been dry pressed and fired. These blades are sharp and do not dull for a very long time, but they are very fragile and require special care and storage. They can only cut soft foods. They require sharpening, and with specialized tools.

To properly sharpen a knife, you need to know what material it is made of. The harder the alloy, the smaller the sharpening angle. The method of sharpening the blade is also selected based on the hardness of the alloy.

Blade shapes

A knife is always a combination of blade and handle. But blades can vary greatly and have component parts. The part of the blade that needs to be constantly maintained and sharpened regularly consists of the following parts:

1. Cutting edge, cutting edge height
2. Butt and its thickness
3. Rectangular section and its height
4. Descents, their height
5. Cutting edges, their height and thickness

The following blade shapes are also found:

1. Wedge-shaped
2. Razor
3. Chisel, “Japanese”
4. "Chopping Chinese"
5. Bullet-shaped

Dulling and sharpening the blade

Dulling of the blade occurs due to the following factors:

1. The blade rubs against the product during slicing
2. The blade has rough contact with heterogeneous particles in products or during falls and impacts with the surface
3. Chemical oxidation upon contact with acidic foods and herbs
4. Asymmetrical lateral loads

It is not difficult to determine a dull blade; it can be seen even by eye, but it feels very easy to the touch.

The purpose of sharpening is to restore the correct contours of the cutting edges of the blade and polish them to the required smoothness. The main difficulty of sharpening for people inexperienced in this matter is that you need to maintain the desired angle of the knife at all times during sharpening. To make this easier to deal with, special mechanisms or devices are often used.

Often, in addition to kitchen appliances, you also need to sharpen tools at home such as a straight razor, hairdressing or household scissors, and other tools. If a person shaves at home with a straight razor or often uses scissors as a household tool or metal scissors, they also become dull. The rules and sharpening tools for them are the same as for knives.

Most often, stones are used for sharpening at home. They have different shapes and stones are made from different materials: mineral natural stones, polymer alloys, abrasive mixtures, ceramics. When sharpening on stones, you can set the required sharpening angle and sharpen the knife correctly, but special skill is required.

Sharpeners that are made on the principle of dragging the blade do not allow you to set the sharpening angle, and therefore are suitable only for short-term edits. And in some cases it is generally undesirable to use them - you can damage the edge of the blade.

Chefs use musat - this is a handle with a rod made of longitudinal ribs. But sharpening with musat requires some skill and this method may not work the first time.

There are also electric sharpeners, but they are not suitable for sharpening kitchen knives.

How to determine the sharpening angle of a knife

The sharpening angle depends on the purpose of the blade. There is a table by which it can be determined. It was developed by the global company CATRA, which controls quality and advises on sharpening all types of knives.

According to it, depending on the purpose of the blade, the following sharpening angles are recommended:

1. Thinning and loining - 5–10 degrees
2. Fruit - 10–15 degrees
3. Cutting - 15–20 degrees
4. Boning for meat and large fish - 20–25 degrees
5. Cleavers , hatchets and vegetable knives - 30–35 degrees
6. Chopping axes - 40–45 degrees
7. Table knives - 55–60 degrees
8. Hairdressing scissors - 45–55 degrees
9. Household scissors - 50–60 degrees
10. Tin snips - 75–85 degrees
11. Straight razor - 10–15 degrees

In the table you can also find angles for rarer tools that can be used at home.

Also, do not wash knives, razors, scissors and other metal blades with hot water or put them in dishwashers to avoid dulling too quickly.

It should be taken into account that stones and sharpening stones are also designed for different types of blades - these properties are indicated on them, and the stone must be chosen so that it fits the existing blades for sharpening. Often the stone comes complete with a set of knives and must be suitable for a particular set or blades with similar characteristics.

Source: https://instrument.guru/nozhi/tablitsa-uglov-zatochki.html

What is the sharpening angle of knives for a planer?

Special machines are used for sharpening knives of planer and jointer types. The work can be done with your own hands; the machine can be assembled independently if necessary. Sharpening is carried out according to certain rules; several options are used. You need to be careful and not violate the technology.

Methods for sharpening a jointer knife.

Otherwise, knives for planers, jointers and planers will be poorly processed and will not be able to fully perform their functions. In addition to special equipment, sharpening stones can be used for sharpening, but a small sharpening machine that has cooling is best suited for the job.

Preparatory work

Anyone who has a plane or jointer faces the problem of sharpening knives. It is expensive to constantly buy new ones, especially since knives can be easily sharpened with your own hands using special machines or sharpening stones.

If the jointer is used frequently, like other woodworking equipment, then it will be inconvenient to constantly send knives to the workshop for sharpening. It is better to assemble the machine yourself. To ensure that the jointer is always in working order, it is recommended to sharpen it at home. The easiest way to do this is with a regular sharpener.

You only need to take a sharpener with low speed, its quality should be high. Water cooling must be available.

Scheme of the sharpening angle of a jointer knife.

You can also use a sharpening stone, but it must first be leveled with a special device. Usually it comes complete with a small sharpening machine, so there is no need to additionally look for such devices. After the editing is completed, it is necessary to smooth the stone; a block is used for this. Sharpening a jointer knife without this step will be problematic.

What to do next? You need to set the angle of inclination. A special screw will allow you to correctly secure the blade relative to the position of the sharpening stone. Using this screw, you can subsequently set any angle of inclination of the knife.

Next, take the holder that comes with the machine. A jointing knife is installed in it. Experts advise starting sharpening knives whose width is at least 13 mm .

The length is not critical; if necessary, the knife holder can be rearranged to any position.

The knife must be securely fastened in the holder, otherwise sharpening will be carried out skewed, and this will worsen the quality of the jointer. How to properly secure a knife in a holder? While holding the blade in the desired position, tighten the clamping screws until they stop.

To control the sharpening angle, you must use a marker; it marks the sharpened chamfer of the knife. It is with this simple method that you can easily monitor the quality and progress of work. The sharpening will be correct if the corner of the knife touches the stone.

The stone must be rotated manually to determine if further adjustment is necessary.

Sharpening process and operating rules

Scheme of a machine for sharpening knives.

The holder moves to the right and left, movements are made relative to the sharpening stone. The blade should not be allowed to go beyond the edge. It is best to immediately install the holder 12 mm from the edge of the working circle. If sharpening is carried out, water cooling must be supplied. You will have to add water to the tank, you need to make sure that it does not run out. It is necessary to ensure that water does not accumulate on the floor near your feet. This is done for security reasons.

When performing work, you must ensure that the stone remains clean at all times, as it gets dirty quite quickly. A special whetstone is used for cleaning; it is recommended to carry out this procedure frequently, since only clean stones can be used for sharpening. The choice of stone itself depends on what kind of knives are used. Today, manufacturers produce jointing knives from soft or hard tool steel, so working conditions will vary.

Sharpening takes approximately 20 minutes, then fine-tuning is done. A special paste is used for this. After polishing, there should be no burrs left on the surface, otherwise the jointing knife will not be ready for use. The test is simple to carry out; a finished knife with excellent sharpening should easily and evenly cut a sheet of paper while hanging, leaving a neat cut.

How to make a machine with your own hands?

Scheme of sharpening a knife on a machine.

To sharpen a jointer knife, you need to use special sharpening machines. This is especially important when jointers, planers and other woodworking equipment are used frequently. The sharpening machine is compact in size and can be installed even in a garage or small shed on a summer cottage. Before starting assembly, you must prepare the appropriate tools that will be used during assembly of the sharpening machine:

• the table on which the work will be carried out;
• faceplate;
• vacuum cleaner;
• engine;
• casing for the machine.

You need to start assembling the machine by finding a suitable faceplate. It is one of the most important parts for a sharpening machine. All jointer knives are quite narrow, so they can only be sharpened using a suitable type of faceplate.

Then the sharpening work will be high-quality, safe, and fast. The faceplate takes up the bulk of the cost of all equipment. Making a sharpening machine yourself is more profitable; you don’t need expensive parts for it.

Manufacturing will be quite justified if you have to frequently carry out woodworking.

You need to buy new faceplates; it is recommended to take American or German-made elements. They have the highest quality, and the cost fluctuates around 25,000 rubles. Next, you need to choose a motor for the future sharpening machine, it is best to take a 1-1.5 kW motor, you can even use a used element. Motors from old washing machines are excellent for the machine, but first you need to make sure the engine is working.

The motor is mounted under the tabletop, the faceplate is mounted to the moving part.

It is imperative to provide a button to turn the machine on/off. It should be located within reach of your hand. The faceplate is covered on top with a casing, which is made in the form of a square. One corner of the casing must be cut off, since from this side the jointing knives will be sharpened with your own hands.

A hole is made in the lower part of the tabletop; it will be intended for a vacuum cleaner pipe, with the help of which all contaminants that arise during sharpening will be removed.

In addition to sharpening jointing knives, a similar machine can be used for other work, for example, for processing ax blades, saws and other tools used in the garden.

Sharpening jointing knives can be done using various methods. Special sharpening stones are suitable for this. However, you can assemble a compact sharpening machine yourself. It will be used to sharpen a variety of tools including saws and axes.

The quality of planing and proper working stability of the knife depend mainly on its sharpening: on the condition of the cutting edge (blade) of the knife and the cutting angle.

Mossy, roughness, and unevenness on the planed planes of the material are caused solely by these two factors: Knives with a dull blade do not cut, but break, grind the fibers, which wrinkle, bend and create unnecessary resistance to the cutter.

To avoid this, it is necessary to sharpen the knives carefully, trying to obtain perfectly flat edges that intersect at a given angle.

Source: https://crast.ru/instrumenty/kakoj-ugol-zatochki-nozhej-dlja-strogalnogo-stanka

Homemade sharpening machine for planing knives: how to make it yourself

The sharpness of a knife is one of the main parameters affecting the quality of wood processing. In addition, this characteristic also affects the degree of safety when working on the machine.

Often a person does not want to run around over and over again in search of a place where he could bring his cutting tools into proper condition. In this case, it’s time for him to think about making a homemade sharpening machine that would solve the issue of the sharpness of planing knives once and for all.

The device of sharpening machines

The development of industrial equipment does not stand still. There is a constant rapid increase in requirements for speed and, most importantly, for the quality of material processing. In this regard, there is a need to create cutting tools with high parameters.

One of the main problems that arise during the work process is sharpening knives. This is what determines the basic capabilities of the machines and their suitability for use.

Homemade sharpening machine.

Depending on the tasks to be solved, such devices are divided into two types: universal and special. The first are sharpening devices for the surfaces of most cutting elements. They are equipped with a variety of devices that allow you to secure, install and sharpen knives.

The second category is designed to work with hobs, drills, circular saws and other specialized tools.

All units are equipped with various equipment, which determines the degree of automation and control of the accuracy of the work performed. The designs of the machines also vary. These can be stationary devices or temporary ones that can be placed on any horizontal surfaces.

Despite the wide range of types of equipment offered, in order to save money, a knife sharpening machine can be made by hand.

Although, of course, many models of universal devices allow you to choose the most suitable type of equipment that can solve the tasks.

Homemade knife sharpening machine

The manufacture of homemade machines is most often due to two reasons. The first is the desire to save money. The second is to show your skill and do everything with your own hands exactly as your soul desires.

Drawing of the machine device.

For example, very often you may be faced with the need to tidy up only certain tools. These can be drills, cutters, saws or jointing knives.

Each specific case requires a separate approach. Self-assembly of the machine will allow you to create a convenient unit for working with certain elements.

Among other things, the presence of sharpening units will significantly save costs aimed at purchasing new knives or restoring them in third-party workshops.

In addition, purchasing in a store guarantees that the device will solve the assigned tasks for a long time. You should also remember the degree of automation. Of course, professional devices use electronics that are simply impossible to make at home without the proper experience.

Option 1

A homemade machine for sharpening a planer will not only keep the tool in good condition, but will also save time on trips to other workshops.

One option for creating such a device is to use a motor with an abrasive wheel, emery cloth, or a sharpening device with a knife fixed in it.

Homemade machine for sharpening planing knives.

This device can be made partly from aluminum, metal and wood. In this case, bearings and guides are used, made from scrap materials, for example, pipe corners or others.

When the knives are level, they can be sharpened on a large abrasive stone. If this is not available, you should use sandpaper glued to a flat surface.

Depending on the requirements for the final result, you can vary the speed of this process. If there are dents, you must first use a belt sander, and at the final stage, treat the tool with an abrasive stone or a homemade one made from sandpaper.

The design features of the machines may also differ from each other. The first option is a device with a fixed base. Its angle of inclination can be changed, but otherwise it is in a fixed position.

The bar is attached to a rod, which is inserted into the loop of a movable clamp located on another rod. The disadvantage of this design is the “walking” angle due to the lack of rigid fixation.

The knife is installed using two steel plates fixed to a fixed platform. Having loosened the fasteners, insert the blade and clamp it. Then adjust the height of the bar so that the required angle is set.

Option 2

The second type of design provides a movable platform, as well as a magnetic holder. This option does not have the disadvantages of the previous unit. Fixed in this device is a frame with a bar that determines the angle.

The knife, in turn, is mounted on a movable table. The choice of holder remains with the master. You can use a magnetic type or a regular one, made of metal plates and “lambs”.

The principle of sharpening knives on a machine.

As you can see, making a knife sharpening machine yourself is not that difficult. If any problems arise, you can always take the help of training videos from the Internet. If all instructions are followed correctly, anyone can make such equipment.

Bottom line

A knife sharpening machine is a necessary piece of equipment in the workshop of every craftsman who works with wood. A timely solution to the problem of sharpening knives will not only speed up the process of processing the material, but will also save time and money.

Why go to other workshops if you can make the necessary equipment yourself?

Source: https://tutsvarka.ru/oborudovanie/zatochnoj-stanok-dlya-strogalnyh-nozhej

Do ceramic knives require sharpening: how to sharpen blades

They say that knives cannot be given as gifts. A friend gave me a ceramic knife. She said that this was not a gift, but just like that. I couldn’t be happy alone when I received such a knife from my aunt.

I continued our “mini-flash mob”: on occasion, I ran to my sister and grabbed her a sharp ceramic knife. I told her how easily they could cut literally anything!

A week later, my sister called to clarify whether neither I nor my friend had sharpened knives. And is it necessary to sharpen them at all? In order to answer her and know for myself how to properly handle this ceramic product, I decided to study this issue.

Advantages of a ceramic knife

I won’t even talk about how a dull knife irritates a housewife - you know that yourself. This was probably one of the reasons for the popularity of knives made from special materials. Of course, this is not the same clay ceramics that is used to make tableware. Rather, it is the material that dentists work with.

Reference. The basis of ceramic instruments is zirconium dioxide. Hot sintering of zirconium powder produces a super-strong material from which blades are made.

Amazing strength is not their only advantage.

• This blade will not rust or be scratched . Products retain their quality appearance and properties when interacting with different products.
• The smooth surface is easy to clean . Caring for a knife does not cause housewives any problems.
• The weight of the tool is small , but this does not affect its strength.
• Knives are sold sharply sharpened. They retain their sharpness for a long time , making it easy to cut products of any structure and density.

Do ceramic knives need to be sharpened?

Of course, every housewife had sharp blades at home even before a Japanese company began producing them from zirconium alloy in 1985. True, most of them became dull rather quickly and required sharpening.

Zirconium blades stay sharp much longer. This raises questions: will it always be like this or will they also have to be sharpened?

Reference. Tools made of zirconium ceramics do not require sharpening for 1–2 years. However, the blade gradually becomes dull, like other knives.

So, dear housewives, you won’t be able to do without sharpening at all, you’ll have to sharpen it! However, processing a zirconium blade has its own characteristics.

What to sharpen

To make it clear that special handling is a necessity, you need to pay attention to one more quality of the tool. He's fragile! Yes, yes, despite all the strength of the knife, its blade is easy to damage . Therefore, sharpening requires knowledge and skills.

Reference. When processing, you should maintain the existing sharpening of the blade: single-sided or double-sided.

And one more important detail is the degree of inclination of the edge of the blade. Excessive grinding can cause the sharp edge to become brittle.

To a woman

If you have to restore the sharpness of a kitchen tool yourself, you will have to take care of an assistant. In the absence of a man who can be entrusted with an important task, a lady can only entrust sharpening to a sharpener - electric or manual.

Reference . An electric sharpener will ensure high-quality processing of the blade. She herself will determine the desired angle of inclination, quickly and efficiently complete the work.

A woman only needs to insert the knife and turn on the sharpener. It is better to perform actions following the instructions.

Working with a manual model differs only in the need to use physical force. And, of course, it will take more time.

To a man

Attempts to sharpen a tool by hand are best left to men. They can do this using different means.

Probably, we could do without this part of the text: it’s useless to give hints to a “armless” man; he’ll ruin something anyway. And the “handy one” knows everything himself and can give advice. Therefore, we will simply list what can be used to treat a zirconium surface.

Reference . To sharpen a ceramic blade, manufacturers recommend using diamond-coated tools or surfaces.

In addition to mechanical and electric sharpeners, there are several other options suitable for the job:

• electric sandpaper;
• diamond paste;
• diamond block;
• diamond-coated machine.

Get started if you already have similar experience. If not, practice with regular steel blades. Take the ceramic ones to a special workshop. Or buy a sharpener. It can be useful to several families at once, so you can purchase it by paying for the purchase together.

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Source: https://setafi.com/posuda/nuzhno-li-tochit-keramicheskie-nozhi/

Sharpening angle of knives for planing machines

24.08.2018

Any owner of planing equipment has had to deal with sharpening the corresponding knives. If you have a special machine at your disposal, then this will not be difficult to do. Another option would be to contact a specialized workshop. You can also sharpen such cutting tools yourself.

Why is timely and correct sharpening necessary?

Planing knives, like other cutting tools, require maintenance for certain reasons:

• with a blunt blade of planing knives, the wood will be processed very poorly;
• when working with soft types of wood, pile and various irregularities will form on the surface;
• the worn edge will crumble;
• When planing with blunt tools, the machine motor overloads

Even if you decide to sharpen it yourself using diamond stones, the effect of such work will be very insignificant. You'll have to resharpen them soon. For these reasons, people who plan professionally choose only automatic or mechanical sharpening.

Preparing the workplace and equipment, installing the screw that controls the angle

To sharpen knives, you will need a special sharpener, but you must use modern variations of it with a low speed, which have water-type cooling. The Tormek T7 with a special Tormek SVH holder is most suitable for these purposes. A smooth and clean sharpening stone will help you complete this process efficiently. In the future, a practical example will be considered based on a set of Tormek equipment.

When sharpening, you need to install a screw with which you can change the sharpening angle, but first you need to prepare the workspace by fulfilling certain conditions:

1. We install the Tormek SG250 sharpening stone, leveling it using a special tool Tormek TT-50. The device comes complete with T7.
2. It is necessary to smooth the sharpening stone using a cleaning and leveling stone.
3. We remove the standard stop and install a specialized stop.
4. We screw in the screw itself, which can later be used to adjust the angle of the chair being sharpened.
5. We install a special holder for the blade.

It is recommended to sharpen cutting tools whose width is more than 12 millimeters. And the length of the knife no longer matters. In addition, you can rearrange long knives. Correct installation of the blade in the holder is of great importance, because sharpening with large distortions is possible. Correctly this process is performed as follows: install the back of the knife all the way and clamp it with special holders.

Estimating and setting the required inclination angle

By analyzing the characteristics of the marks left by the sharpening stone, it is possible to correctly assess the angle of inclination by selecting the desired proportions. Then a holder with a knife is installed on the fixed stop.

Adjustment is carried out using the stop screws; you need to lower the holder until it touches the stone. Using the angle adjustment screws, select the required parameter in relation to the stone.

When rotating manually, the marks on the painted blade determine the need to adjust the angle of the holder. And if necessary, such adjustments are very easy to make.

Operating angle range 30-45 degrees. Its exact degree is determined by the specific type of tree. A 1985 handbook written by Karl Fronius states that quality will depend not only on the angle, but also on the blade's reach and head diameter.

The classic parameter is considered to be 40 degrees. When choosing a specific number, do not forget that the cutters are designed according to a standard backing. If you increase the angle, there is a risk of the butt rubbing against the workpiece.

And if you reduce it, the cutting edge will become weaker and thinner.

Solving the problem of choosing the right angle

There are two ways to solve the problem of setting the required angle of inclination:

1. Using a double-headed backing based on the principle of double-layer blades. We make the main back at an angle of 40 degrees, and the very top of the knife - about 20 degrees. This will significantly extend its service life, and the knife will also have good shock resistance.
2. Check the sharpening pattern and modes.

Some rules and features of sharpening

Having set the angle of inclination to the desired position, you can begin the sharpening process itself. You can record the amount of metal being removed; two sliders with a scale and 0.1 mm division are designed for this purpose. The sharpening specialist will be able to adjust this parameter quite accurately. Do not forget to securely fix it with special clamps after each filing to prevent vibrations during sharpening.

The sharpening process itself is carried out by changing the position of the holder in relation to the sharpening stone. It is important to ensure that the knife does not go beyond the extreme point of the stone. It is advisable to stop the holder 10 mm from the edge. Separate stops are provided as a braking element, by moving which the desired stroke is set.

The decisive factor here will be the experience of the person who sharpens the planing knives. During the process itself, water is formed, which accumulates and collects on the blade. Then it flows onto the body itself and onto the floor. A lot of water is wasted, so don’t forget to constantly add it to the special section.

And the spill itself can be reduced by placing some kind of pad under the leg, 6 mm high.

Another nuisance during sharpening will be the constant clogging of the sharpening stone, which affects the duration of this work. It is best to periodically clean it with the SP-650 bar provided for this purpose. When working with soft metal, sharpening will go much faster and the stone will have to be cleaned less often, because such material is removed in fairly massive sections.

After half an hour of work, you get an even chamfer with a stable burr. All that remains is to polish it using a leather wheel and polishing paste. First of all, you will need to complete the plane of the knife, and only then the chamfer itself.

Features of working with a manual machine

Manual machines are used only in cases where it is necessary to sharpen not too many knives. Otherwise it would have taken a lot of time. But if you need to sharpen several knives, then this method will be quite acceptable, but you must adhere to the following rules:

• you need to check the surface of the stone, because the use of such machines is only possible with clean sharpening tools;
• try to make sure that the carriage with the attached knife is brought in quite smoothly, without any sharp jolts;
• the speed of movement of the carriage should not exceed 6m/min, high speed may damage the blade;
• During one pass, the carriage must advance a distance that is 15 cm greater than the length of the knife.

Features of working with an automatic machine

• the wet method is more suitable for sharpening planing knives, because the blade is constantly cooled;
• at the preparation stage, you already need to set all the parameters, including the angle of inclination and the distance of movement of the carriage;
• the most important factor is the installation of knives on the carriage;
• the process should be carried out quite smoothly, without sudden twitching

DIY sharpening machine

If desired, it is possible to assemble the sharpening machine yourself. You will need the following items: table, faceplate, vacuum cleaner, motor and machine cover. The faceplate will become the main and most expensive component. It is advisable to choose American or German manufacturers. Then an engine with a power of 1.5 kW is selected; even supported options are suitable. For example, you can purchase motors from washing machines.

The motor must be installed under the tabletop, and the faceplate must be secured to the moving element. Don't forget to consider the on and off buttons. You need to put a casing on the faceplate, cutting off one side, from which sharpening will be done. You will also need to make a cutout at the bottom of the tabletop for a vacuum cleaner. This machine is also suitable for working with other cutting surfaces.

Sharpening knives in specialized workshops

If you are unable to organize the correct sharpening of planing knives or it becomes difficult to set the desired level of inclination, then contacting a workshop will be an excellent solution to the problem. This method has the following advantages.

• Expensive and high quality equipment is used. The straightness of the cutting edge will be much better than when processing it yourself.
• Modern cooling systems are used that will prevent the cutting surface from overheating and collapsing.
• Additional materials and special technologies are used to refine the knife, which affects the functionality and service life of such knives.
• In a workshop environment, it is possible to obtain the most even edge due to the absence of overheating and weight differences. In practice, the result should be an ideal instrument.

Source: https://tochilka.pro/articles/ugol-zatochki-nozhej-dlya-strogalnyx-stankov/

How to make a sharpening machine for planing knives

Knives are indispensable items in the household. In the kitchen where food is prepared, sharp knives are essential. Hunting and fishing are unthinkable without this tool.

The working part becomes dull and loses its sharpness over time. Of course, you can sharpen it at your nearest workshop. But if a household uses a dozen knives of various shapes, then frequent trips to the sharpener can be expensive.

You can purchase many devices for sharpening cutting tools in the retail chain. As a rule, the effect of their use depends on the quality, manufacturer and skill of the owner. It is almost impossible to make a knife perfectly sharp using such sharpeners.

What is the design

A manual sharpening machine is a simple device. The way it works is that the knife is rigidly fixed, and the sharpener moves along its blade.

The equipment is equipped with an adjustment that can change the angle of the abrasive in relation to the blade. A professional tool is sharpened at an angle of 20˚. Kitchen knives are processed at an angle of 30˚.

Self-assembly: stages of work and selection of materials

• The basis for the machine is a wooden board 15–20 mm thick. This size is explained by the fact that the support must have sufficient weight. The platform is made from a piece of laminated chipboard or MDF. The shape of the base resembles the head of a key from a regular door lock, but can be rectangular. The material from which the platform is made is not particularly important. This is a duralumin or steel plate.

• A steel vertical stand is installed in the wide part of the board. The rod is made from a round steel profile Ø8–10 mm. The entire axis is threaded.
• To attach the rack, a hole is drilled in the board with a diameter equal to the transverse dimension of the axis.
• A round recess Ø20 mm is made in the lower part of the platform. Its depth should hide the nut flush with the bottom surface of the wooden base of the machine.
• The stand is secured to the plate with two nuts - top and bottom. Washers are placed under them.
• There are other options for installing the support rod. For this purpose, special bushings are used. The main thing is that the fastening is reliable and ensures strict verticality of the axis.
• A guide bar with a horizontal slot is placed on the stand. The part is a piece of bent metal profile with a T-section. Some craftsmen make it from steel strip.
• The plank has elongated shelves (ears) on the sides. Nuts are installed in them.
• The plate is then screwed onto the axle. By rotating the element, the desired height of its position is achieved. Setting this part parameter ensures the required angle of inclination of the abrasive stone relative to the knife blade.

The design of the bar may be different. It all depends on the imagination and capabilities of the master.

1. Two clamping bars are installed on the near side of the platform. The elements are made from two metal strips secured with screws or bolts to the board. Clamps provide rigid fixation of the blade of the knife being sharpened perpendicular to the axis of the machine.
2. The abrasive element is clamped in a special housing with a long metal rod.
3. The rod is threaded through the hole in the plank.
4. It is extremely unprofitable to use a factory-made abrasive stone. A wear mark quickly appears on the working side of the block. To get rid of it, you have to grind it down or replace it.
5. The abrasive is moved across the blade, lightly pressing against the knife. This movement of the sharpening stone allows you to obtain a chamfer that is even in width.
6. The platform is secured with a clamp on the workbench tabletop.

An example of making an abrasive stone

You can make a sharpening device like this:

• Blanks with a diameter of 20×40 mm and a length of 200 mm are cut from thick plexiglass.
• A strip of sandpaper is attached to each. Usually PVA glue is used.
• Plexiglas has good adhesion, and the sandpaper adheres tightly to its surface.
• On the side of the block, write the sandpaper grit number with a felt-tip pen.
• A hole 120 mm deep is drilled at the end of the plexiglass. Its size should ensure that the guide rod fits tightly. The part is a metal rod with a diameter of about 4 mm.

Sharpening knives consists of several stages of blade processing. The bars are changed during the process. Move from coarse abrasive to finer sandpaper. The final grinding of the chamfer is done with a zero.

Sharpening curved chamfers

The ends of the blades of professional hunting knives have a curved shape. To sharpen the curved surface of the blade, the tool is fixed in such a way that the chamfer of the end of the blade falls into the working area of ​​the abrasive element. The bar rod, threaded into the hole of the bar, has freedom of movement in the transverse and longitudinal direction, which allows you to process curved chamfers without compromising quality.

Changing abrasive

Experts say that one strip of sandpaper is enough to process two knives. Just hold the block of worn paper under running water for a couple of minutes and the sandpaper will easily come off on its own. All that remains is to stick a new strip onto the dry surface of the block.

It is not necessary to use plexiglass as a working element. You can use wood, but there will be a problem with changing abrasive paper. Wood should not be constantly exposed to moisture. The block can swell and lose its shape, so craftsmen prefer plexiglass.

The video below shows one of the options for a sharpening machine:

Sharpening various cutting tools

In the household, in addition to ordinary knives, there will always be tailor's, stationery and manicure scissors.

With a slight improvement in the knife mounts, the scissors can be fixed to the machine platform. Renewing old tools with dull cutting edges is a problem that is always relevant and requires a solution.

Alternative

If your household does not need special filigree sharpening of cutting tools, you can get by with a homemade electric sharpener. To manufacture the device you will need an electric motor. The engine from an old washing machine is quite suitable for a sharpener.

At your nearest workshop, you can order special bushings for attaching the emery and grinding wheel to the motor shaft. The ideal solution would be to install a transformer that regulates engine speed.

An electric sharpener can be bought in a retail chain. The factory-made device has two circles on the shaft on both sides of the motor. Without changing the wheel, you can sharpen the knife and polish the chamfer of the blade.

Professional machines

Such equipment is installed in workshops for the production of cutting tools. Blanks for knives are processed on planing machines.

A blade chamfer is formed from metal using high-strength cutters. The knives are finally finished on units with grinding wheels.

Source: http://ooo-asteko.ru/kak-sdelat-zatochnoy-stanok-dlya-strogalnyh-nozhey/

Sharpening knives: how to sharpen a knife at home

Knives are the most used tool in the household. Whether it's kitchen knives, folding knives, stationery knives or surgical scalpels, they should always have a sharp blade. During operation, the cutting edge of any, even the most advanced tool, becomes dull and the problem of sharpening knives is always relevant. In order to maintain sharpness yourself, you need to know how to sharpen knives correctly and master this useful skill.

Cutting angle

As the sharpening angle decreases, the sharpness of the blade increases, but the risk of destruction of the cutting edge by lateral load increases. Typical section angles of a symmetrical tip are about 25−30 degrees. Very sharp knives can be 20 degrees or less. Different knives are sharpened differently depending on the purpose, the geometry of the blade and the material from which it is made.

These features are important when deciding how to sharpen a knife. For example, a surgical scalpel is a sharp but fragile instrument that cannot be restored after losing its cutting properties.

Straight razors are also unusually sharp, have a very shallow cutting edge angle, and require stropping once a day or more often. Another extreme case is an axe.

It is used primarily for splitting wood or impact cutting, so it can have a blunt point angle that does not require frequent sharpening. Generally, the harder the blade material, the shallower the angle.

The composition and hardening of steel affects the sharpness. The latter is limited by the grain size of the material from which the blade is made. For example, European kitchen knives are usually made of soft materials with an edge angle of 20-30 degrees and a hardness of 52-58 HRC, while tools for Eastern kitchens are traditionally made of hard steel with angles of 10-20. It is not uncommon for these products to have a hardness of 59-60 on the Rockwell scale and higher.

Types of edge processing

There are several technological operations to restore the cutting properties of the blade. The need to use each of them depends on the type of tool, its condition, and the stage of restoration of properties. They are very important for understanding how to properly sharpen a knife at home. Here are some of the edge processing methods:

1. Edge restoration . Removing metal to form a new edge.
2. Rough sharpening . Processing using coarse stones or paper according to the method used.
3. Fine sharpening . The same as described in paragraph 2, but using fine-grained abrasives.
4. Edit . Light sanding to maintain acceptable sharpness.
5. Polishing . Achieving a mirror effect without significant changes to the edge.

All these procedures can be applied in stages and simultaneously as stages of complete restoration of the tool or separately, depending on the tasks or purpose of the blade.

For example, straight razors are straightened before each use and even during the shaving process, but they are processed on stones only a few times a year, and the edges do not require restoration for years. A hard steel kitchen knife may need abrasive only once a year, while butchers using carbon steel tools can only get by with sanding every few cuts.

Source: https://pochini.guru/sovety-mastera/zatochka-nozhey

Planer knives. Replacement and sharpening angles

A plane is perhaps the most popular tool in the arsenal of a home carpenter. That is why you need to know everything about replacing planer knives, their proper sharpening and operation. And how to choose the right knives for a plane, both manual and electric, to ensure maximum durability - these issues will be discussed further.

Knife operating conditions

All knives for hand planes (electric ones have some nuances, but more on that later) operate under conditions of significant loads on the blade, which manifests itself in increased shear stresses experienced by the metal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBZZS4NM_co

The dynamics of the plane knife operation are as follows. When the tool moves back and forth, the knife cuts into the wood to a certain depth. Since the tree does not have any noticeable plasticity, a certain layer chips off with the formation of chips.

The chips themselves are also rarely long and quickly split into smaller fragments. This happens at the moment of “creeping” of the wood cut from the workpiece onto the inclined edge of the blade. As the plane moves further, a crack appears in the next layer, etc.

If you do not take into account the individual characteristics of the material being processed, then the durability of the planer knife is affected by the size of the passage - the maximum length of the broken chip fragment. With a decrease in span and a decrease in planing depth, the surface of the workpiece becomes cleaner and smoother, and at the same time the shear loads on the blade are reduced.

Since the chips break when bent upward, the greatest stress is caused in the plane block. Therefore, it is made from the hardest wood species. However, the durability of the block, as a rule, far exceeds the durability of the knife. This is explained:

• More favorable block geometry, where there are no stress concentrators;
• The situational desire of a carpenter (especially an inexperienced one) to increase the cutting depth, as a result of which the thickness of the passage increases;
• Increased friction between the contact surfaces of the knife blade and the chips, as a result of which the temperature at the working edge of the knife increases.

These factors lead to rapid dulling of the blade. Therefore, the correct choice of the geometry of the knife for the plane, as well as the material from which the tool is made, is important.

Knife design

The knife of a hand plane consists of a working and a supporting part. In the configuration of the working part of the knife there are:

1. A chamfer that forms on the back of a blade. It reduces the force of cutting the knife into wood by eliminating friction of the rear part against the workpiece material.
2. The rake angle, which in most cases coincides with the accepted inclination of the knife in the plane body.
3. The back corner of the chamfer itself.
4. The working angle of the sharpening, which is equal to the difference between the values ​​of the chamfer angle and the angle of inclination of the knife in the plane.

For the durability of the tool in question, the rake angle is of greatest importance: it is this that determines the smoothness of the planed surface, the conditions for removing chips from the processing zone and the load on the blade.

When choosing the optimal value for a given angle, the following factors are taken into account:

• Physico-mechanical properties of the processed material . In particular, as hardness increases, the angle must be increased. For processing soft wood (linden, aspen, pine, larch) it is recommended to set the knife at an angle of 45±5°, for working on harder wood (hornbeam, oak, pear) - 60±5°, and when processing even harder materials - even up to 80°. Such recommendations are associated with the abrasive action produced by the passage of chips as they rise from the planing zone;
• Type of planing . Almost every type of wood requires a certain angle of inclination of the plane to the plane of the workpiece being processed. For example, pine is best planed when the tool is tilted at a sharpening angle of the knives of a hand plane of 4050° from the axis of the board. Less soft grades are processed at sharpening angles of 2530°. This technique provides better planing quality, but the knife heats up more and, therefore, becomes dull faster;
• Knife material and hardness . High-speed steels P12 or even P18 are most suitable for these purposes (for this reason, some home craftsmen use parts of friction saw blades that work under similar conditions to make plane knives). Planer knives made from ordinary tool steel type U7 or U8 will be less durable.

Sharpening knives for hand planes

The working edge of the knife is an edge, which still has a slight radius of curvature. Before sharpening, visually check the integrity of the edge: there should be no local metal tears on it. If they are present, the planer knives will have to be shortened.

To minimize the radius of curvature on the edge, sharpening is recommended to be carried out in two stages. First, primary sharpening is carried out: the dull knife from the chamfer side is brought to the periphery of the sharpening wheel and pressed firmly.

The speed of the sharpener should not exceed 600700 min-1, otherwise the metal removal will be significant. It is important not to overdo it with the pressing force, since blue-violet tarnish may appear on the steel - an unpleasant sign of tempering of the metal.

In this case, the hardness of the plane knife will decrease, and it will be necessary to restore the strength characteristics of the material through rather complex heat treatment (annealing + hardening + tempering).

If there is no sharpener, proceed as follows. Sharpening a knife for a hand plane is done with a coarse-grained sharpening stone, which must be fixed on a workbench (both hands must remain free).

Sharpening is performed by circular movements of the chamfer along the surface of the block. In this case, it is advisable to periodically moisten the knife with water or soap solution.

This not only cleans the sharpened surface from the smallest particles of the knife metal, but also allows the tool to be cooled evenly.

The appearance of a thin burr on the blade along its entire length is a sign of transition to the second stage of sharpening. Here the tool is sharpened using a finer-grained stone that will remove the burr. The generally accepted gradation of bars according to their grain size is as follows:

1. High grit (30-180 µm): silicon carbide or corundum whetstones/sharpening stones. Used to remove large defects on knives, change the chamfer angle, etc.
2. Medium grit (720 µm): whetstones/sharpening stones made of electrocorundum or chromium dioxide. Suitable for pre-sharpening.
3. Fine grain size (35 microns). The materials are the same, the tool is used for final sharpening of knives.

After sharpening is completed, the knife blade is passed along a piece of hardwood, which will finally remove the burr fragments.

Sharpening electric planer knives

The main features of knives for drive-type planes are their double-sidedness, as well as work exclusively along the wood fibers. If the knives are made of tool steels, then they can be sharpened, while carbide knives will have to be replaced. When one part of the knife becomes dull, it is turned over to the opposite side and continued to be used.

The following versions of electric planer knives are distinguished:

• Straight - they are used for working with narrow grooves on products;
• Rounded – suitable for planing wider surfaces;
• Curly or wavy, which are used to form textured surfaces on the product.

Knives also differ in their sizes, in particular, in length. For imported tools, the standard size is 82 mm; in practice, such knives are called “plates”. However, some domestic manufacturers produce knives that are compatible with foreign-made tools. High-power electric planers (designed for working with more durable wood) are equipped with thicker knives with a width of 110 mm. A special feature of these knives is the presence of mounting holes.

The longer the knife, the easier it is to sharpen. As in the previous case, it is important to know the material from which the knife is made. The process of sharpening knives for electric planers is as follows.

First, the current state of the cutting edge is determined. If a shiny stripe is clearly visible on the bevel of the knife, then such a tool needs to be sharpened. It is carried out at a sharpening angle of 30°, using a grinding wheel with a guide jig, pre-moistened with water.

Grinding can be performed using both reciprocating and circular movements of the knife. In the first option, movements should be performed across the working surface of the blade. Cooling during the grinding process is mandatory: electric planer knives operate at much higher speeds and are therefore extremely sensitive to a decrease in hardness.

This is exactly what will happen if grinding is carried out in ordinary air: the steel is released, and its hardness drops.

It should be noted that all models of electric planers are equipped with special holders. By securing a knife in such a holder, you can sharpen it relatively conveniently on a regular grinding block. During the sharpening process, the condition of the blade surface is visually monitored: the working edge should have a mirror surface.

After finishing work, the surface of the grinding wheel or block should be thoroughly cleaned of grease.

Source: https://proinstrumentinfo.ru/nozhi-dlya-rubanka-82-mm-110-mm-dlya-ruchnogo-rubanka-ugol-zatochki/

Musat for sharpening knives, types, features, master class on creating

There is no such person who has never resorted to the help of cutting tools. Their blades become dull over time and become less effective. You can restore the sharpness of the blade in different ways. For example, using musat to sharpen knives is a fairly simple but effective device. Manufacturers offer models of different shapes and quality; everyone can choose the appropriate option - from the layman to the professional.

What is

Musat is a tool for sharpening a knife blade. It consists of a wooden or plastic handle and a metal or ceramic rod. Thanks to the device, you can easily maintain the sharpness of the blade. When sharpening knives with musat, no metal shavings are formed.

An important point is that the file shaft must be harder than the blade.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2e1Dw-C_4rU

This tool is widely used in various fields. In this regard, it is divided into several types:

• domestic;
• universal;
• professional.

At home, household musats are usually used. The length of their working surface is 180–230 mm, which is quite enough for processing kitchen knives. This category of sharpening is considered to be the most budget-friendly.

To straighten blades made of harder metal, universal or professional grinders are used. They differ from household ones in their high cost and the presence of a long rod:

• universal - 260–290 mm;
• professional - 260–360 mm.

The device itself does not lose its main properties over the period of operation and does not require additional sharpening. The surface of the musat rod is magnetized, so that the metal particles do not fly apart and remain in place.

Kinds

The length of the sharpening rod for sharpening knives is not its only characteristic. The instruments differ from each other in several parameters: shape, shaft material, purpose. To understand which option to use in a particular case, you need to read the detailed description of each model.

By material

The technical properties of a sharpening tool depend on the material from which its rod is made. For each type of knife, a specific type of musat is used:

• steel;
• diamond;
• ceramic;
• mixed.

Steel tools are characterized by increased hardness and strength. The metal rod is based on an alloy of chromium and vanadium. The smooth surface is intended for straightening and polishing blades; it is not used for sharpening blades. No special care is required for the instrument.

Diamond rods are considered to be the most effective. They are made of chrome-plated steel coated with diamond particles. Thanks to the rigid surface, straightening the blades does not require much effort. The device is also not used for sharpening knives, but only for polishing and straightening metal. This device must be properly cared for: washed after each use, dried naturally and stored in a specially designated place, separate from other solid devices.

Diamond steel is most often used for final alignment of a knife edge or repairing minor damage.

The ceramic musat rod is characterized by varying degrees of abrasiveness. On the one hand it is hard and rough, on the other it is completely smooth. The abrasive surface is used for sharpening blades, and the smooth surface is used for straightening the blade. For manufacturing, a metal base and ceramic coating are used, since rods made entirely of ceramic are light and fragile. Ceramic musat is mainly used for large knives with a wide blade of low hardness.

Mixed tools are tools with different types of surface - smooth and notched. With their help, you can not only polish and edit, but also sharpen blades.

Ceramic

Steel

Diamond coated

Mixed

By purpose

Must for knives is needed in two cases - for direct sharpening of the blade or for grinding it. To restore the sharpness of the instrument, it is necessary to carry out a full sharpening. For this purpose, abrasive musats with a diamond or ceramic coating are used.

The best option for sharpening knives is a steel grinder with a round rod, the length of which should be approximately 50 mm longer than the blade.

Grinding tools are widely used at home; the hardness of the blades is not as high as that of professional equipment. They can also be used on newly purchased knives to adjust the edge of the blade. Most often, ceramic musats with a smooth surface are found. This type of rod is not suitable for full sharpening.

For sharpening

For grinding

By shape

The shape of the musat is determined by the cross-section of the rod. There are 3 main categories:

• round;
• oval;
• faceted.

The round sharpener is characterized by maximum lightness. If this parameter is fundamental, then the right choice would be this model, especially for home use. An oval shaft is characterized by a large area of ​​contact between the tool and the blade during editing. Faceted musats can be flat or tetrahedral. Dressing knives with such devices is highly efficient due to maximum linear contact.

Round

Oval

Faceted

How to use

Using musat is not difficult. It is recommended to follow certain rules when sharpening blades. There are 2 main ways:

The simplest option is to process the edges of the blades with support. In this case, the algorithm of actions is as follows:

• install the musat vertically - the handle is located at the top, the rod rests against a horizontal surface;
• holding a knife in the other hand, position it with the blade down so that the base of the blade coincides with the base of the tool shaft;
• make movements from top to bottom at an angle of 15°.

It is somewhat more difficult to carry out this process while in weight, but professionals use this method:

1. Hold the musat by the handle in a horizontal position parallel to the floor or table. It can be installed perpendicular to the body “away from you” or also parallel.
2. In the first case, sharpening is carried out from the base of the musat to the edge at an angle of 15°, in the second - on the contrary, from the end to the base.

When done correctly, the hand holding the knife is pulled back during sharpening, and in order for the blade to completely pass along the shaft at this time, you need to work only with the brush. Upon completion of the process, all instruments are thoroughly washed. You can check the quality of a sharpened blade in different ways. For example, cutting paper or a tomato.

Regardless of the sharpening method, it is necessary to take into account the main nuance - when moving, the knife blade must be completely processed (from its base to the tip).

How to make it yourself

You can make a simple sharpening tool yourself. To do this, you will need an electrode, a sharpening stone, and a handle (you can take a ready-made one or make it yourself from plastic or wood). The algorithm of actions is as follows:

1. Take an electrode of the required length. To do this, it is cut to 180–200 mm.
2. Treat the workpiece with a whetstone to remove the top layer. In this case, it is best to use a block with a fine abrasive surface.
3. Attach the handle to one side of the surfacing rod.

Homemade sharpening musat can only be used for home purposes. You will have to sharpen knives with it very often, since the efficiency of this tool is lower. It cannot be used for blades made of harder metal.

It is not recommended to use musat for straightening knives whose blades have a wavy or serrated shape. This technique can damage the surface of the blade.

Although musat seems at first glance to be a simple device, it is still worth approaching the choice carefully. The shape and material must be selected correctly for individual purposes. It is important to strictly follow the rules of use and further maintenance of the file so that the tool does not lose its effectiveness.

Cut the Sormite electrode to the required length

Treat the surface with a whetstone

Attach the plastic handle

Ready musat

Source: https://posuda-expert.ru/nozhi/obsluzhivanie/211-musat-dlya-zatochki

Sharpening jointer knives

What is the most important thing in sharpening jointing knives? This is an understanding of what you will do. You cannot sharpen a tool correctly without understanding how it works and without knowing what is needed and how to sharpen it. two types of jointing knives :

1. Planing knives are straight, thickness 3 mm, width 30 mm, length is not standardized.
2. tool for profile surfaces , consists of profile plates 8 mm thick, width 50, 60, 70 mm, length is not standardized.

:

Geometry of the jointing knife

All of them are wedge-shaped
cutter It is formed by a front face and a back face . If we intersect the front and back edges, we get an intersection line , which is called cutting edge . There can be one edge (jointer blade), two (saw teeth) or more (drills, drills).

When the front and back edges intersect, a sharpening angle is formed. It is usually 20-30 degrees.

crossing the front edge with the machined surface, a cutting angle . For a manual jointer it is 45 - 50 degrees, for a jointer: 45 - 65 degrees.

Intersecting the surface being processed with the back edge, we obtain the back angle .

Let's consider the sharpening angle . During operation, the sharpening angle will change (it increases), and the clearance angle will decrease (they are adjacent), but the cutting angle remains unchanged .

An increase in the clearance angle leads to the need to apply more effort in work , and this leads to an increase in cutting force, a greater load on the jointing knife and its heating . A poorly sharpened edge does not cut, but is pressed into the material and tears it.

Therefore, timely sharpening of the jointing knife is necessary to reduce processing costs, improve quality and ensure long-term operation of the tool.

How is sharpening done?

• First, we inspect each jointing knife. We check its evenness in length, wear and linearity of the cutting edge.
• We determine the minimum height for a given set of jointing knives, and install it in the cutter head, keeping parallel . Their smallest height on a simple machine is 18.5 mm , and on a machine with a hydraulic clamp - 21.5 mm , otherwise the strength of the knife in the head is not guaranteed. Carbide plates must be at least 4 mm .
• We install the head with knives on the sharpening machine and align the back surface parallel to the plane of the sharpening wheel. The grinding wheel and the shaft on which it is located must be balanced and free from runout , cracks and other damage. Sharpening occurs by moving the circle along the length of the blade and changing the height above the blade being sharpened.
• When sharpening the rear corners of a tool for conventional knife heads and those with a hydraulic clamp, keep in mind that it is related to the cutting angle and, by increasing one, decrease the other. And vice versa. By making the cutting angle smaller, you will increase the clearance angle. To increase the strength of the cutting edge, you can give it a larger angle , that is, “fill up” it. The chamfer is no more than 0.1 -0.5 mm .
• If you have carbide inserts, then when sharpening them, increase the clearance angle by 5-10 degrees so that the stone does not touch the steel base.
• Grinding of the cutting edges of jointing knives can be done on surface grinding machines.

Professional sharpening center "TochkaZatochki"

offers forging, geometry correction and sharpening of jointing knives or cutting a new profile on them.
Timely maintenance of jointing knives will increase its service life.

About TochkaSharpening

Source: https://tochkazatochki.com.ua/zatochka-fugovalnyh-nozhej/

How to taper jeans at the bottom at home without a sewing machine with your own hands

Flares either come back into fashion or become a bright anti-trend; straight jeans can easily get boring. To narrow your jeans at the bottom, you don't need a sewing machine - use strong, coarse thread and any needle.

How to Tighten Jeans by Hand

To reduce the bottom of jeans quickly and discreetly, use a hidden seam:

1. Sew a line of cross stitches along the leg to the desired height. The result should be a pyramid: the top stitch is 2 mm, the bottom stitch is the same as the pant leg needs to be narrowed.
2. Pull - the edges will meet, hiding the thread.
3. If the resulting tuck on the inside is in the way or is too large, cut and overcast the edge or cover it with a “cobweb”.

Tricks and subtleties of the technique:

• if you need to remove a lot, make 2 seams: on the outside and inside of the ankle;
• in order not to suffer with decorative stitching, lay a hidden seam next to it (the thickness of the stitching will hide the thin line of an invisible seam);
• In the same way, you can shorten jeans without cutting and maintaining the factory hem with stitching: instead of a pyramid, build a “fence” of stitches along the hem;

• You can use the same method to narrow your jeans along the entire length, to the hips.

How to narrow jeans at the waist without a machine

A hidden seam will also come in handy in this situation. But you have to take pockets into account. Therefore, arm yourself with the following tips:

1. The pyramid of stitches will be upside down, i.e. the bottom stitch is 1-2 mm, the top stitch is the length that needs to be removed.
2. The best place for the pyramid is the middle of the back, on either side of the central loop.
3. If this is not enough, remove as much as possible in the back and 2-4 cm on the sides, while placing the bottom stitches above the edge of the pockets.
4. You can sew the entire sides of your jeans, from the hem to the waistband, but first make sure that the pockets will remain usable.

Method with an elastic band

Joggers (pants with elastic at the ankle) are as bold a style as bell-bottoms. But if next season it returns to the top trends, you will already know how to make such pants quickly:

1. buy a thin hat elastic or rubber band;
2. sew the bottom of the pants with a “forward needle” seam in 1-5 rows;
3. tighten to your desired width. Ready.

To sew with a hat elastic, use a darning or threading needle with a large eye, and to avoid damaging the fabric, sharpen the tip on a standard knife sharpening stone.

How to skinny jeans according to all the rules

Of course, it is best to use an overlocker, sewing machine, iron and other equipment. The technology comes down to undoing the waistband, undoing the side, internal and inguinal seams (if necessary). Cut off the excess and re-sew, process the cuts with an overlock or zigzag stitch to a step length of 1-1.5.

The most unpleasant thing you will have to deal with is the thickness and selection of finishing thread. It is logical that it should be the same or similar on the pockets and on the legs - everywhere. You will have to look for the right option offline, taking your jeans with you and spending a long time in the sewing or handicraft department.

A little trick: if the desired shade is not found among the denim threads, pay attention to the floss. The method is painstaking, but effective: after sewing all the stitching with regular thread, matching the tone of the jeans, duplicate the seam using 4 strands of floss. Twist it while making a stitch. You can sew “backward” or “forward”, but making the purl stitches tiny. In this case, it is not necessary to pierce the entire thickness of the seam with a needle - sew along the top layer, because the stitching is decorative, not fastening.

It’s possible to narrow or shorten jeans without a machine, and you don’t have to run to a tailor. You don't even have to match the threads. Use a hidden seam, the principle of darts - this is enough in 80% of cases. Of course, reducing jeans by 3 sizes can only be done by completely altering them, and you can’t do it without sewing equipment.

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Source: https://gidpotkanyam.ru/sposoby-suzit-dzhinsy-bez-mashinki.html