How to make a knife sharpening machine

DIY knife sharpening device: drawings

Despite the manufacturers' assurances that sharpening the knife is unlikely to be necessary during operation, it is still better to purchase a knife sharpening device. It doesn’t matter whether we are talking about kitchen knives or hunting knives - during use, the blade will become dull, and as a result, additional sharpening will be required. A sharp tool is the key to quality cooking, hunting or fishing.

The device comes in handy everywhere. For example, sometimes you need to sharpen a surface planer, jointer or plane. Also, knives and scissors often become unusable. Therefore, it is important that the blade is sharp at all times. Below we will talk about the devices for sharpening knives with which the process is carried out, as well as the rules for their use.

Types of devices that can be used to sharpen a knife

There are several types of tools designed to make the blade of the device sharp again, as when purchased. Emery is a simple one, but it has not been considered popular for a long time.

Other types of devices are classified according to the following criteria:

1. Depending on the type of sharpening material used. This group includes whetstones and whetstones.
2. According to the type of sharpening material used. This includes devices such as manual or power tools.
3. By use. Some devices are used only at home, while others are purchased exclusively by professionals.

It is worth taking a closer look at the types of tools used above.

Whetstones and whetstones

A whetstone is a special abrasive tool that is used for sharpening cutting objects or edges of household appliances. Additionally, using a whetstone you can sharpen metalwork equipment.

There are four types of sharpening stones produced in industry:

• natural. These include novaculite, Japanese water stone. Such bars are expensive and are practically not used;
• diamond Strong, effective bars. A knife sharpening device made in this way is quite popular. The bars have different geometric dimensions and come in unusual shapes. In addition, they have increased strength characteristics and wear resistance;
• ceramic. This type of bars appeared relatively recently and has gained trust among buyers;
• artificial. These include electrorund or carbide. The bars are cheap and are most often used for finishing sharpening.

Fact: The choice of the type of bar and size depends on the preferences of the person who will use it in the future.

Hand tools

This category includes machines and musat, another name is steel. Musat is a product that comes complete with some types of knives. This is a rod for the manufacture of which various materials are used. The musat is equipped with a handle, which ensures ease of use.

The object is characterized by the roughness of the exposure - the size of the notch that is placed on the rod in order to determine the roughness of the blade surface.

Manual machines

Similar household appliances differ in design, but one element is present in each machine - a whetstone or a whetstone. The abrasive tool is activated by the applied force created by the user of the tool. The task of the unit is to create and maintain a sharpening angle that will be optimal for a comfortable process.

Fact: manual machines are slowly being replaced by electric ones and are losing their former popularity.

Household or home electric sharpeners

The presence of an electric drive makes the sharpening process much more convenient and faster. Thus, electric household sharpeners are considered quite a popular equipment for those who often sharpen knives and want to keep the item sharp. The advantage of such a unit is that it can be used both at home and in industry.

Among the characteristics of such an electric sharpener are:

• electrical power. Industrial equipment has a high power rating, while home units have less power;
• period of equipment operation. The service life of an electric unit is longer than that of a manual machine;
• sizes. Electric machines come in both small and large sizes;
• the type of abrasive material used and its dimensions;
• functionality. The choice of machine depends on what type of tools it can sharpen.

Also among the advantages of electric sharpeners, it is worth noting that most of them are small in size. This makes it possible to install them anywhere, as well as easily transfer them.

How to sharpen a knife at home?

It is known that a sharp knife allows you to quickly cope with the cooking process in the kitchen, leaving time for other important matters. But not everyone knows how to sharpen a knife. First, you should familiarize yourself with the main rules that will help you cope with sharpening efficiently and quickly.

Corner

The angle at which the tool is held while sharpening is a significant factor. Different knives have different purposes and different characteristics. Thus, their blades are also different, and therefore it is important to position the device at the correct angle while sharpening.

Below is a list of optimal angles for different types of knives:

• 55-60 – for canteens;
• 40-45 – for hunting;
• 30-35 – for kitchen;
• 35 – for knives that are used for cutting vegetables;
• 25-30 – for knives that are used for slicing meat;
• 25 – for knives that are used for slicing fish.

The last three options were written by those who use professional tools in their work.

Equipment for sharpening knives at home

The second rule is to be able to operate all types of possible equipment that come in handy at home and sharpen a dull blade.

Sharpening knives using a whetstone

To sharpen a knife with a whetstone, you need to remember the main steps of the process, which include:

1. Choosing an angle. This was written above;
2. Performing work with smooth movements, excluding the abrupt slipping of the bar from the blade;
3. Periodically wetting the bar with water for an effective process.

Tip: the plane of the block must be within the predetermined angle parameters relative to the knife blade.

Sharpening knives using musat

The process is more complicated than using a block, and looks like this:

1. The musat is installed on the surface in a vertical plane.
2. The edge of the knife is aligned with the top of the musat, and then the blade moves along the rod in an arcuate motion. The process starts at the top and smoothly moves down.
3. The movement is repeated a certain number of times until the blade is sharp on one side. After which this procedure is repeated with the second side of the blade.

Important: it is necessary to provide a flat surface for the musat to rest firmly on.

Sharpening knives using an electric machine

The most important thing when working on an electric machine is to ensure complete safety of the process. Otherwise, the requirements do not differ from the method of sharpening described above with a whetstone or whetstone.

The only thing worth noting are some features that distinguish this process from others.

• firstly, in this case, it is not the block fixed in the machine that is wetted with water, but the blade of the knife.
• secondly, during the process you should not allow the blade to become very hot. Otherwise, deformation will occur.
• thirdly, it is necessary to ensure a fixed angle. This can be done using special devices installed on the surface of the housing.
• Finally, when working, it is necessary to purchase personal protective equipment to avoid accidents.

Advice: if the home machine is small and used for light work, then you don’t have to comply with the requirements of the third and fourth points, since there is no need for them.

Common mistakes

The process of sharpening knives, if done independently, cannot do without mistakes that self-confident users often make.

So, for example, during sharpening the following can happen:

• when an incorrect angle of inclination is formed, the functionality of the knife is reduced, preventing the procedure from being performed correctly;
• when the blade is strongly pressed against the sharpening tools, it becomes deformed, leading to breakage and the impossibility of further use;
• when carrying out work without first cleaning the surface of the blade, the equipment becomes contaminated, reducing its service life;
• When performing the process with musat, as equipment for the main sharpening, the tool breaks. Musat is useful only for finishing or straightening the blade.

Important! During work, you should pay close attention to the process and be careful with the tools with which the process is performed.

DIY sharpening machine

Despite the fact that today stores provide a wide selection of tools and equipment for high-quality and quick sharpening, users sometimes tend to use their hands to create, for example, a machine that is useful for performing this process.

Before making a manual version of a knife machine, you need to decide on the type in advance. After this, it is worth considering the availability of the required materials that will be useful for the process, and only then begin assembling the frame.

To manufacture the machine you need:

• plywood sheets;
• metal pin. Its diameter is 10-12 mm;
• steel in the form of a sheet, the thickness of which is 1 mm;
• block of wood;
• a pipe made of metal;
• abrasive block;
• a hacksaw, which will be used to cut metal;
• drill;
• plane.

The machine assembly process looks like this:

1. Plywood is taken, and the future frame of the machine is made from it, or rather, the base on which the remaining components will subsequently be attached.
2. After this, holes are drilled in the base using a drill. Needed to secure the adjusting pin.
3. Sheet steel is used to make tool rests.
4. The pin is inserted into the drilled holes, and the steel is attached above.
5. Next, special devices are manufactured that will fix the angle of inclination.
6. Upon completion of the previous step, they begin to manufacture the carriage and another base, but for replaceable bars. The carriage is made of another metal pin and pre-prepared wooden blocks.
7. The base for placing the abrasive bars is made of a pipe and attached to the carriage.

The drawing of the machine that will be obtained after completing the steps is presented below.

The assembly of the machine is completed by installing additional parts. After which the unit is considered assembled and ready for use.

Interesting: The product market presents consumers with a choice of equipment designed for sharpening knives. Some models of machines, bars or musats are considered popular, and also inexpensive. Manufacturers are trying to please customers with new models and devices for comfortable completion of the process.

There are many photos and videos on the Internet that present lessons on how to properly sharpen knives and other cutting surfaces: select an angle, adjust equipment, fix the initially specified position.

With their help, you can carry out the process yourself and at the same time avoid common mistakes. After several attempts at sharpening knives, blades and other tools, you can call yourself a professional and help others.

If you cannot sharpen a knife yourself, it is recommended to seek the help of professionals or ask someone who has experience in this matter.

Thus, the knife sharpening device allows you to use the devices for several years.

Source: https://videohandmade.ru/dom/stanki/dlya-zatochki-nozhej/

Devices for sharpening knives: types and drawings, DIY production

Every housewife sooner or later begins to get dull knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or cuts meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. It can fall off the product being cut at any time and cause injury. Therefore, the tool should be periodically sharpened using a special device for sharpening knives.

A wide range of such sharpening devices are offered in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of sharpening stones, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - necessary conditions

For efficient and long-term operation of a knife, the most important factor when sharpening it is the angle between the edges of the blade . During the sharpening process, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

Each blade has its own optimal angle:

• for a razor and scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10–15 degrees;
• knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15–20 degrees;
• multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
• hunting and camping knives - at an angle of 25–30 degrees;
• knives for cutting hard materials - 30–40 degrees.

Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the desired angle. Holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to ensure the required angle of inclination of the cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the manufacturing itself does not take much time.

DIY knife sharpeners

There are many types of knife sharpenings, from which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

• a block of abrasive material;
• stop for attaching the knife.

You can use ready-made special stones as a bar or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

There are several types of stones on sale:

1. Water tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.

2. Oil stone resembles water stone in structure and shape, but its surface is the most oily.

3. Natural instruments are made from natural stones that undergo industrial processing.

4. Artificial stones are made from non-natural components.

5. Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but they are not very convenient to work with.

To make your own abrasive bar, you can use small rectangular glass plates with a thickness of 4–5 millimeters. Using double-sided tape, you need to stick sandpaper of different grain sizes onto the surface of the plates. The cost of such bars will be quite small, and the sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass block, you must tighten the nuts very carefully , otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used when using it, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, you should avoid rapid movements, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to the loss of the properties of the blade.

Device for sharpening from wooden blocks

It is enough to simply make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

1. Wooden blocks must be sanded using sandpaper, removing all burrs from them.
2. Make preliminary markings on the bars depending on the required angle.
3. Place a sharpening stone on the marked line and mark its width on both sides of the wooden block.
4. Make cuts according to the markings on the wooden blanks, the depth of which should be about 1.5 centimeters.
5. The abrasive bars must be inserted into the resulting recesses so that all the grooves coincide.
6. Secure the sharpening stones with bolts.

to attach a piece of rubber to its lower surface .

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting corners

The basis for this device is a Lansky sharpener, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

Required materials and tools:

• metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
• standard aluminum corners;
• metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
• set of nuts and bolts;
• a sharpening machine with a vice or a file;
• needle file

Instead of a sharpening machine, you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding off sharp corners and cleaning the metal cutting areas.

Stages of making a sharpener:

1. According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
2. The holes are drilled and threaded.
3. Using a file, all sharp corners and edges are rounded. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
4. Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
5. The hole for the spoke support is expanded using a needle file.
6. The holes for the studs are threaded.
7. The rods are inserted into the outer holes and secured with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
8. An M8 bolt is screwed into the wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
9. Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
10. Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is threaded, which is fixed with the help of nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, you can adjust the sharpening angle.
11. A thin metal rod in the shape of the letter L, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut are used to assemble a device that will hold the sharpening stone. The outermost holder must have a through hole for the knitting needle.

This knife sharpening device has a fairly wide range of pressing angle degrees and is most convenient to use.

Massive sharpener with stand

With your own hands, you can imitate a knife sharpening device from Apex, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet. Such a knife is presented in the form of a stand, on which a platform is installed at an angle, and on the side there is a support for the end of the nozzle in the form of a rod. This is a very convenient device with which you can sharpen any cutting tools very efficiently.

Required materials and tools:

• a quarter sheet of chipboard;
• small wooden block;
• metal rod M8 or M6;
• magnet with slots for bolts;
• a piece of plexiglass 6x12 cm;
• 10 screws;
• 3 wing nuts;
• 2 bolts;
• 4 rubber feet;
• wooden or ceramic clamps;
• sandpaper;
• drill;
• saw.

Stages of work:

1. Three blanks are cut from a sheet of chipboard. Their dimensions should be: 30x8 cm; 7x8 cm; 37x12 cm.
2. On a workpiece measuring 30x8 cm, measure 6 centimeters from the edge on the long side and drill a hole.
3. From a block with a cross-section of 2x4 centimeters, a section 8 centimeters long is sawn off, in which two through holes are drilled perpendicular to each other. The first should be three centimeters from the edge, and the second three centimeters from the first.
4. A recess one centimeter thick is cut from the edge of the block to the hole.
5. A slot is drilled along the middle of the plexiglass.
6. Holes for legs are drilled in the corners of large chipboard workpieces.
7. A small piece of chipboard is placed perpendicularly four centimeters from the edge of the workpiece and secured with two self-tapping screws.
8. A medium-sized workpiece is placed on top and also secured with two self-tapping screws.
9. For the magnet, a shallow depression is drilled at the very edge of the highest point of a medium-sized part.
10. The magnet is inserted inside and fixed with self-tapping screws.
11. A piece of plexiglass is placed on the same board. A bolt is inserted through the slot and hole, which is screwed down with a nut at the bottom.
12. A hole is drilled on the free edge of a large blank for an iron rod.
13. The rod is fixed using two nuts: a wing nut and a regular one.
14. A block is screwed onto the rod, into the hole of which a bolt screwed from the outside with a nut is inserted.
15. A device for clamping a knife is assembled from a cut of a metal rod, two clamps and four nuts with washers.
16. The legs are screwed to the finished product.

The sharpening angle on such a device is adjusted using a bar and a wing , which fixes the part at the desired height.

Each of the described devices has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing the appropriate option, you need to proceed from your needs and skills in such work that you will need to do with your own hands.

Source: https://stanok.guru/metalloobrabotka/tokarnye-raboty/tochenie/prisposobleniya-dlya-zatochki-nozhey-svoimi-rukami-vidy-i-chertezhi.html

How to make a homemade knife sharpening device with your own hands

In households, the use of cutting, sawing and planing tools is often necessary. During operation, they lose their sharpness, and the blade needs to restore its original properties.

Taking your tools to workshops to sharpen them is a reasonable option, but in order not to waste money again, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands.

General information about sharpening knives

The goal of any type of knife sharpening is to ensure a sharp blade. And the most important factor that affects long-term and efficient operation is the sharpening angle. The practicality of this parameter is well assessed during the work process.

If you look objectively, you will notice that with a smaller angle, the knife blade results in a sharper one. But with this action, it turns out that the period of improved cutting qualities is not very long, i.e. it becomes dull faster. The sharper the knife blade becomes during the sharpening process, the more quickly it will become dull.

Based on this pattern, we can come to the conclusion that the angle must be selected correctly and the value must be maintained evenly along the entire length of the edge.

It is worth noting that only those types of blades that have a certain degree of hardening can be sharpened. If the steel hardness of the cutting parts exceeds 55 HRC, then it cannot be sharpened with any available tools.

The golden rule for sharpening knives is the constant sharpening angle of the cutting edge throughout its entire length.

To achieve this, you need professionalism, skills and special equipment that will allow you to hold the tool in your hands, maintaining a given angle of inclination of each cutting edge.

Features of using the device

Of course, a simple whetstone is suitable for sharpening a knife or the cutting edge of a plane. But its quality will not be the best. To ensure uniform removal of the metal layer and precision processing, it is necessary to use special sharpening devices.

The advantage of such a product is not only its ease of use, but also factors such as:

1. The ability to fix the blades, which is quite reliable and does not cause unnecessary stress. a properly designed device does not allow the metal to be damaged during operation.
2. Possibility of installing the bar at a certain angle. Thanks to this, when the cutting edge moves, the angle value will not change.
3. Variation in setting different sharpening angles. With this functionality, it is possible to process various tools, even sharpening knives with a stepped structure.

Materials and tools required for the device

To make a simple and quite high-quality device, you need to take care of preparing the following workpieces and tools:

• plywood or small laminated chipboard sheet;
• steel stud with a diameter of 8 mm (the thread on it must be cut along the entire length);
• textolite or ebonite bars (alternatively can be replaced with hard wood - beech, oak, etc.);
• aluminum plate (with a thickness of at least 5 mm);
• fasteners – bolts, nuts (wing);
• neodymium magnet (you can find it on an old computer HDD).

Drawings of a device for sharpening knives with your own hands

After preparation and provision of materials, you can begin the process of assembling the device. First of all, we take plywood to use as a frame, which should rest on the mounting legs at a certain angle in the range from 15 to 20 degrees. After this, the pin we prepared is screwed into the lower part; its length should be approximately 35-40 cm. To make the mounting thread more durable, you can use glue or sealant.

We fasten an aluminum plate in the center of the installed plywood. Before fastening it, it is necessary to make a groove, which in size will correspond to the diameter of the fixing bolts. It is worth noting that we use an aluminum plate as this will help avoid damage to the steel blade of the knife.

After this, we proceed to making a lever that will allow you to secure the emery to the device. To assemble it we use the remaining part of the pin. Then we take two textolite (or wooden) blocks and, by sawing out, we make holders for the lever. The stops should be secured on one side with a wing nut.

It is optimal to provide a spring-loaded block near the handle, which will allow you to quickly change the emery stone.

As the main elements, you can use blanks from homemade bars - we glue sheets of sandpaper to the aluminum plate, and their grain size should be different. Such a device can be quite easily fixed in the lever.

A design feature is the presence of a hinge with a double degree of freedom. Such a device can be easily assembled using the same PCB bars. One of them should be screwed onto the threads of the vertical stud, and used as a horizontal rotary axis and a height adjuster for the lever support (this is necessary for setting the sharpening angle).

The function of the second bar, which has a horizontal hole for the lever, is that it should be screwed to the first.

Thanks to this, it is possible to ensure free vertical movement of the entire lever structure.

The knives are clamped with a plate, or fixed to the surface of a neodymium magnet. When removing the first layer with coarse types of abrasive, the blade must be securely fixed.

If it is necessary to perform fine-tuning, you can install the blade on a magnet and perform the sharpening operation with little effort. The horseshoe of magnets should be recessed at the same level as the table top and set with epoxy glue.

The manufacture of a homemade device for sharpening knives can be considered complete. It is enough to set the desired angle and sharpen the edge slowly and smoothly along the entire length of the blade.

Device for sharpening knives using electric sandpaper

An electric sharpener will not only speed up the work, but also make it possible to obtain high-quality concave edge profiles on the blades, the so-called fuller sharpening. It is impossible to achieve such forms using a linear bar; therefore, these types of devices are not interchangeable, but complementary devices.

It is noteworthy that a person, working on a manual sharpening device, controls the speed and intensity of the processes performed, while the emery wheel has a constantly high rotation speed, which can negatively affect the condition of the knife.

During friction, the metal surface is subject to strong heating, which results in the “tempering” of the hardened steel. The material loses many properties, it becomes less hard, which leads to abrasion and the appearance of torn edges.

Another problem with a “released” knife is the rapid loss of sharpness. In this regard, you need to work carefully with an electric sandpaper, bringing the blade for sharpening to the abrasive for short periods of time and taking frequent breaks to allow the knife to cool.

When working in such modes, it is quite problematic to maintain constant angles, so the tool needs to be securely fixed during such processing.

The design of such a device is quite simple to implement. In the direction of the rotating axis, there are guides on the emery along which carriages with knives move. The angles are maintained mechanically, and the forces are determined directly by the operator.

This type of device is quite easy to make with your own hands - there is no need to perform precise work for processing metal parts. The base material is actually used to make the guides.

On the workbench, near the sharpener, guides are mounted, with the help of which it is possible to change the distance from the knife stops to the abrasive. This distance affects the sharpening angle. The vertical rod must necessarily have up and down free movement regulators that have durable types of fixation of the current positions.

The knife blade should be held horizontally, pressing against the thrust element. The force in contact with the emery must be adjusted directly during operation. The processing needs to be done symmetrically; you just need to change the sides of the knife and sharpen them at the same angles.

The use of this method can only be suitable when processing classic types of knives. Kitchen, hunting, hiking and other types of cutting surfaces of various tools require a slightly different approach.

A common type of design for sharpening knives is the “Jointer”

For such a device, it is necessary to use a specialized sandpaper with an end-type working surface. The guide under the carriage is placed at the bottom so that it is located away from the rotating axis. This is due to the fact that in this part of the abrasive wheel, its work is considered most effective. The guides with cutting elements are moved manually, the clamps are provided by the tool’s own weight.

A drawing of each structural design is shown in the image.

This type of machine was used at the beginning of the last century, and throughout this time the technology of its operation has remained unchanged. The simplicity of this device makes it easy to make for your home workshop. Any components made of metal, plastic, or wood are suitable for this.

By replacing the cutting element on the jointer, you can sharpen the ice ax knives, the main thing is to maintain the correct angle, which should be flatter. Devices for sharpening scissors work on the same principle.

To sharpen a chisel and a plane knife, you can also use an electric sandpaper and locking carriages. But these types of tools are compact and can be sharpened with a mechanical tool.

There are equivalent methods - along the edges and across. In terms of quality, the processing is virtually identical; therefore, it is therefore impossible to primarily single out a specific type of device.

For factory products, blades are supposed to be adjusted transversely.

Using a similar principle, thick plywood is taken from which the frame is made. Any rollers can be used as a guide, preferably more than two. By moving the machine along the surface of the emery, the chisel blade is given an ideal shape.

If serious types of sharpening are not required, simpler devices are also suitable for minor edits.

Attach the bars with the required angles of inclination to the chisel. Place sandpaper and a piece of glass near them. Apply a soap solution to the glass surface.

You will be pleasantly surprised by the effectiveness of such devices.

For transverse sharpening, it is worth making a simpler device, where the guide element also acts as a support. The blade is attached vertically to the moving part. The only drawback of this is the fixed angle, which is set during the manufacturing process.

But, compared to a knife, the resulting deviations from ideals are not so critical.

This type of device can be used for sharpening plane knives. But due to the wide size of the blades, the process becomes somewhat more complicated. In this regard, you can use an electric sharpener that has an end working surface.

The stops are made of wooden blocks. It is important to provide for the possibility of changing angles. Clamps are provided by the operator, and semicircular sharpening can be performed, which is very indispensable for carpenters.

Naturally, this device is convenient to use for sharpening the edges of chisels. Given the high productivity rate, you will be able to restore tools even with a large number of nicks.

Now you know how you can create a homemade sharpening machine to perform all the necessary operations for sharpening knives at home.

“Device for sharpening various types of knives”

Source: https://pro-instrymenti.ru/vspomogatelnye/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-nozhej-svoimi-rukami/

Devices for sharpening knives, design and manufacture

Almost every home craftsman has cutting tools. Over time, the cutting edges lose their former sharpness, and working with such a product becomes unbearable. There are two options for solving this problem: have the tool sharpened and pay a lot of money, or assemble a knife sharpening device yourself and sharpen the products yourself.

Causes of blade dulling

The dulling of the blade can be explained as follows. During cutting, the blade is exposed to tiny abrasive particles, be it fruits or vegetables. The cutting edge of the blade gradually wears off and the knife becomes dull. Another reason is to hold the blade when cutting at a certain angle.

Some areas of the blade are subject to increased stress and increased wear.

Correct sharpening of knives

There are types of knives that are impossible to sharpen yourself due to the textured blades. Also, knives made from ceramics cannot be sharpened. But, as a rule, the quality of the steel in such products is high, and they rarely become dull. There are a variety of knives of low quality, and they have to be sharpened very often. As practice shows, if the steel is of poor quality, then sharpening will solve the problem for a while, and then the blade will become dull again.

To sharpen knives you will need abrasive wheels. If it is not possible to purchase ready-made circles, you can make them yourself using wooden blocks and sandpaper of different grain sizes.

The standard sharpening angle is 20 - 30 degrees. It is quite difficult to maintain the angle during sharpening, and therefore it is necessary to make a simple knife sharpener, in which it is not necessary to maintain the optimal angle. The basic rule in this process is maintaining a precisely specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.

Basic mistakes

As it may seem at first glance, sharpening is simple, but if you delve into the process itself, you will notice a fairly large number of different nuances. Most people make simple mistakes when sharpening knives, which leads to uneven sharpening or damage to the knife. Common mistakes when sharpening:

• The cutting edge was not sharpened . As a result, small burrs form on the sides, which temporarily give sharpness to the blade, and after working with the knife for a short time, the blade again becomes dull. To prevent this problem, you should carefully sharpen both edges, and then, as you sharpen, use sandpaper or a wheel of different grits.
• Presence of paint, oil, dirt on the tip . The bottom line is that during turning, fat, dirt, oil and other components mix with grinding abrasives and lead to scratches and microchips of the blade. After such sharpening, the blade quickly becomes dull.
• Pressure plays an important role . You need to remember one simple rule: sharpness does not depend on the force used, but on the duration of sharpening. Excessively strong pressure leads to chipping of microparticles from the blade and poor sharpening.
• Wrong choice of angle . The angle may vary depending on the grade of steel and the purpose of the tool. For home kitchen knives it is 20 - 25 degrees. For other types of blades that will have to withstand heavy loads and work with hard materials, the angle will be 40 degrees.

Source: https://pochini.guru/sovety-mastera/prisposobleniya-dlya-zatochki-nozhey

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening and sharpening, devices, machine and drawings, rules

1. Why do you need a sharpener?
2. How to sharpen a knife?
3. Sharpening profiles
4. Touchstone
5. Knife sharpening devices
6. L.M.
7. Knife sharpening machine
8. Not just knives

Interest in how to make a knife sharpener with your own hands arises for a reason.

The consumer qualities of hand-held cutting tools are enhanced through the use of modern materials and technologies for blade manufacturing and precise factory sharpening. At the same time, the price of the product increases, but it is becoming increasingly easier to ruin a fairly expensive item with primitive sharpening. Therefore, various household devices for sharpening knives are no longer needed only for convenience.

To understand why a knife sharpener is still needed and how to make it correctly, you will have to start with the ideology and evolution of the knife.

Why do you need a sharpener?

A living relic of our days is the Finnish hunting knife. Not a gangster Finnish knife, sometimes of a bizarre shape, but a Finnish-type hunting knife, on the left in the figure. Traditional hunting knives (center and left) are similar in shape, but the difference between them is very large.

Finnish knife and classic hunting knives

The blade of a Finnish knife is forged from cast iron, which can be smelted right in your yard from swamp ore in a furnace-furnace, without resorting to the blast furnace process, puddling, and other methods of converting cast iron into iron and steel.

The viscosity of crinkly iron is excellent; it is very difficult to break a blade made from it. But the hardness is also low, somewhere around HRS55, the knife becomes dull quite quickly.

Finnish hunters did not care about this: a blade of such hardness can be sharpened (sharpened) by beating on many natural stones, and there were always enough smoothed moraine boulders in Fennoscandia.

They sharpen a knife by beating it in much the same way as beating a scythe, only the whetstone is motionless and the blade is moved. First, they pull it along the whetstone with the butt away from you, then they turn it over and pull it with the butt towards you.

The position of the cutting edge (CR) on the whetstone is always dragging; quick movements: shirk-shirk! During each movement, you need to keep the contact patch of the blade with the touchstone (see below), but the requirements for maintaining the angle of inclination are not so strict.

Learning to sharpen a knife by beating is not very difficult, and with some skill you can create a smoothly running profile on the blade, see below. However, the Finnish knife is, in general, a dead end in the evolution of a cutting tool, surviving in special natural conditions.

A good knife has never been cheap, and in extreme situations, the durability of the blade, combined with the toughness of the blade, became vital factors. Therefore, even in ancient times, they learned to harden knife blades from the surface and cement them: the core remained viscous, not brittle, and a hard, red-hot crust formed on the outside, see next. rice.:

Structure of a knife blade with surface hardening and carburization

It is still possible to sharpen a knife with a cemented blade, but you need a skill that is not given to everyone. And the abrasive is already needed from a special type of stone - lithographic grunstein slate. There is little of it in nature; Grünstein is still considered a strategic raw material.

There is no artificial grenstein and it is not expected.

It’s as easy as shelling pears to ruin a cemented knife with inept beating - a little somewhere the cementation bark will be stripped down to raw metal (this is not visible to the eye), the knife will only have to be thrown away, the blade will immediately become dull and begin to crumble.

Note: if you have an antique scythe whetstone of a slightly greenish color lying around somewhere, do not throw it away, it is a valuable rarity.

Service knives do not require the same durability and toughness as hunting and hiking knives, and they should cost much less. As a result, special steels and powder metallurgy are widely used in the production of utility knives. The blade of an “eternal” kitchen knife is structured like a rodent’s incisor: in longitudinal layers, the hardness of which decreases from the core outward. In any case, you have to sharpen the knife less often, but chipping is definitely ruled out - the blade immediately becomes discolored.

How to sharpen a knife?

Source: http://lenpas.ru/stati/zatochka-nozhej-i-tochilka-svoimi-rukami-prisposobleniya-stanok-i-chertezhi-pravila.html

DIY knife sharpening device - instructions!

Almost every person in life is faced with the question of sharpening knives. After all, any knife, regardless of its quality, sooner or later becomes dull. Therefore, the blade must be carefully maintained.

In stores today you can choose any sharpener from a huge variety.

What types of sharpening stones are there?

In general, there are several main types of such devices. Namely:

Oil-based, on the surface of which there is oil, specifically to save material.

Water, similar to the previous one, but water is used here.

Natural, industrially processed.

Artificial, made from non-natural materials.

Rubber, extremely rare. Completely inconvenient to use.

Nuances in the matter of sharpening

Every knife sharpening has its moments.

For example, Japanese self-sharpening requires special attention from a fairly experienced specialist, since the Japanese type of steel is quite fragile. To sharpen them, manufacturers recommend using different water stones with different grain sizes.

Housewives use store-bought sharpeners for sharpening. When using several knives, their sharpness remains longer.

But this is very important, even though it takes a lot of time and effort.

How to sharpen knives correctly?

For this it is necessary to create special conditions. Thanks to them, the knife will remain sharp for a very long time.

Therefore, it is important to choose the right angle at which you will sharpen your knives. According to the basic rule in this matter, the smaller the angle at which the knife is sharpened, the stronger the cutting edge will be.

It is important not to forget that the next sharpening depends on the maximum sharpness. The sharper the knife, the faster you will have to sharpen it. At the same time, making it “workable” again will be much more difficult.

Why do they sharpen knives?

Source: http://neruds.ru/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-nozhej-svoimi-rukami.html

How to make a knife sharpening machine with your own hands

instrument.guru > Knives > How to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands

In the household, such a simple device as a knife is constantly used. In the process of work, sooner or later the knives begin to become dull. Using such household utensils becomes uncomfortable and often unsafe. Such a knife can break off when cutting food and cause injury, so knives in the household should always be quite sharp. To do this, this tool should be periodically sharpened.

• The simplest sharpener made from wooden blocks
• Manual homemade machine for sharpening knives
• Selecting whetstones for sharpening knives
• Rules for sharpening knives with your own hands

Very often at home, in order to sharpen your cutting tools, they use ordinary sharpeners or abrasive whetstones , which does not always lead to a good result.

To learn how to sharpen your kitchen tools with sharpeners, you need special practice, since if the sharpening angle is incorrect, the tool will not have the required sharpness.

To carry out work on sharpening knives, there are both the simplest sharpeners with an angular gap shape, as well as a variety of factory sharpening devices and complex electric sharpening machines.

The simplest sharpener made from wooden blocks

In order to make your own simple device for sharpening knives, you will need a couple of abrasive whetstones. process them using sandpaper . We process the workpieces carefully so that there are no irregularities or burrs left on them.

After this, we mark on wooden blocks the places where the sharpening stones will be installed. To do this, we draw lines on the block where the sharpening stones will be attached, taking into account the desired sharpening angle of the blade.

Applying sharpening stones to the drawn lines, we fix their thickness. Using the resulting markings, we make cuts with a depth of 1–1.5 cm. By selecting wood from the cuts and inserting sharpening stones there, we should obtain a design in which the wooden blocks clamp the sharpening stones.

In this case, the abrasives are located at the sharpening angle of the knives.

For the final assembly of our homemade structure, you need to drill two holes in the wooden blocks and tighten them using bolts. Abrasive stones must remain stationary. To prevent the knife from slipping when sharpening knives, you can attach a gasket made of rubberized material to the bottom of the bars.

We also advise you to familiarize yourself with the table of knife sharpening angles.

Manual homemade machine for sharpening knives

Currently, home craftsmen have developed various designs for sharpening knives. They differ both in the operating principle and in the materials and tools required for manufacturing. If you decide to make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, drawings of such designs can be found on the Internet. Based on the principle of operation, machines are divided into two types.

The knife is fixed, the sharpening stone moves.

Such a device is quite simple to make. Structurally, such a machine consists of two main parts.

1. The first part is the sharpening stone holder. It can be produced, alternatively, as follows. We take a pin with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of about 50 cm. From two small blocks we make fasteners for a sharpening stone. The sharpening stone is clamped onto the stud with these bars (using nuts and washers) and is positioned along the stud. You can make a handle at one end of the pin for more comfortable work. The structure with a clamped sharpening stone is located closer to the handle, behind it a PVC tube or heat shrink is put on the pin.
2. The second part is a bed with a knife holder. Initially, a support table is made. It can be made from a sheet of chipboard measuring ~ 30 x 30 cm. However, the size can be very different. The main thing is that its length is less than the length of the hairpin by about 30%. This is done so that the holder with the sharpening stone can move freely along the bed. In a vertical position, a screw stand is attached to the support table, for which you can also use a pin with a diameter of 8 mm. A strip with a slot is attached to the screw post. This bar can move up and down along the vertical rod, it will determine the sharpening angle of the blade. The support table also houses the knife holder structure. It is made from two pieces of chipboard or similar material, and when mounted on a support table resembles a triangle, one apex of which rests on the base of the screw rod. The height on the opposite side is approximately 8 cm. The cutting tool holder is assembled on this edge of the triangle. It can be either a clamp or a magnet. Now all that remains is to insert the sharpening stone holder into the slot on the screw rod of the support table and, securing the knife with the holder, sharpen it. First you need to set the required sharpening angle with a bar on the screw rod.

The sharpening stone is fixed, the knife is moved.

The second device for sharpening the blade is based on the fact that the sharpening stone is fixed to the base, and the blade is sharpened by moving the knife. With this method of sharpening, a device is made in the form of a movable cart, on which the knife is rigidly fixed. The sharpening angle is set by the height of the bar relative to the platform.

By moving the cart with the clamped knife back and forth, the blade is sharpened, however, you need to adapt to sharpening the rounded edges of the blade. For high-quality sharpening, you need to place this device on a perfectly flat surface, for example, placing a sheet of glass on a table or using a tabletop made of natural stone.

Selecting whetstones for sharpening knives

When making a homemade knife sharpening machine, the main component will be a sharpening stone. To choose the right type of abrasive , you need to know the parameters of the bars, as well as what tool they are intended for sharpening. There are seven types of sharpening stones. The materials from which they are made are called abrasives.

Abrasive material can be natural or artificial. Artificial abrasives are made from a variety of materials; they differ in quality, strength and price. Natural abrasives are novaculite and Japanese water stones. The main parameters of sharpening stones are grain size and size. In order to completely sharpen a knife, three types of grits are required.

• Coarse-grained . Designed for primary processing, correcting the shape of the blade.
• Medium grain . Designed for sharpening and finishing after primary processing.
• Fine-grained . Designed for polishing and final finishing of the blade.

For household needs, sharpeners are also made with two types of grain size on both sides of the bar.

Rules for sharpening knives with your own hands

It is unsafe to use dull knives, so if the blade becomes dull, it should be sharpened. It is important that when sharpening the cutting tool is positioned strictly perpendicular to the direction of the bar, and the knife must be sharpened at the same angle along the entire blade .

Most kitchen cutting tools are factory sharpened to 20 to 25 degrees. When sharpening for household needs, this angle can be slightly reduced to about 15 degrees, which will increase its cutting properties.

Processing should begin from the beginning of the blade; to control the sharpening angle and quality, you can paint over the processed part of the blade with a marker.

Since it wears out unevenly during use, when sharpening you should focus on the bluntest part of the blade.

We have all encountered a situation where there is no desire or opportunity to buy a special device for professional knife sharpening or turn to a specialist for help. There is an excellent solution - a DIY assembly for sharpening knives. For safer and better sharpening, use it strictly for its intended purpose. The advantage is that you can choose the mode and difficulty level yourself, this will allow you to quickly and efficiently achieve the desired result.

Source: https://instrument.guru/nozhi/kak-sdelat-stanok-dlya-zatochki-nozhej-svoimi-rukami.html

What sharpening machines for knives: types, tips for choosing, making your own - Review +

Sharpening knives is a process that even gentle female hands can handle. Indeed, in our time there are many devices that make this task easier. Ceramic knives, for example, do not require sharpening, which is very convenient, but steel knives require periodic sharpening because the material becomes dull. To sharpen your knives, you can use abrasive stones or a knife sharpening machine.

The last method requires following the recommendations of specialists, then the result will certainly please you.

Knife sharpening tools

• Grinding whetstone.
• Files with a special notch.
• Sharpening devices.
• Knife sharpening machines.

Note.

Sharpening knives the old fashioned way is, of course, a good and effective way, but a precisely tuned machine for home use gives a better result with the desired angle of formation of the blade edge.

Rules for sharpening knives

Experts recommend following a number of rules in order to obtain high-quality knife sharpening at home, which in turn will reduce the number of blade sharpenings.

If you are a supporter of using an abrasive-coated whetstone, start working with the sharpest part of the blade, and end with the duller part, namely the one that is little involved in the process of slicing products. Often the process starts from the middle, moving towards the tip of the blade with a slight turn. The shape of the knife and its thickness affect the sharpening angle of the blade. A sharpening machine for kitchen knives performs sharpening at an angle of 25°, the blade is tilted above the block by 12 - 13°.

The type of sharpening machine for thicknesser knives and the material from which it is made also affects the quality of the work.

On various Internet resources, you can find special videos that clearly show the process of sharpening a knife blade.

Note.

Knives are produced mainly from alloy and carbon steel. Hardened steel needs to be sharpened with an abrasive stone, stainless steel with a triangular file.

This is due to the fact that relatively soft metals, during the sharpening process, the surface of the bar with the abrasive is forgotten. The forged blade is quite flexible, so it is advisable to fasten it and sharpen it with a whetstone using casual movements.

Frequent use of abrasive stones contributes to the formation of a greasy film on the surface, which must be rubbed off.

Previously, table sharpening machines for knives were made from wedge-shaped bars and stained oak. The bars were placed on both sides of the wooden blade, so that the cutting edge was free. The structure was tied with rope and, using a whetstone, the blades were sharpened to extreme sharpness, thereby obtaining an excellent sharpening angle.

Sharpening knives that are used in planes is carried out as follows: on thick glass, apply sandpaper with a fine fraction, the beveled part of the cutting edge onto the abrasive and sharpen in a circular motion.

Sharpening knives at home

For this purpose, you will need to take a block of hard wood, the surface of which is formed by sharpening at a certain angle necessary to form the edge of the blade. This makes it possible to maintain the angle of the processed edge. For ease of sharpening the blade, fix the blade in the plane of the block using self-tapping screws.

Make a sharpening machine for jointer knives with your own hands, this will make the process easier and the quality of work much higher. The main thing is to follow the rules and nuances in your work, and there will be no problems.

A DIY knife sharpening machine was created to make working with metal products easier. You can sharpen a home tool with your own hands using available tools, but in production you can’t do without a machine. There are larger volumes and more advanced tools.

The sharpest tool is a boning knife or carving knife.

This is what butchers use to cut up animal carcasses and cut skins. With such intensive work, the blade of the tool becomes dull extremely quickly. If the amount of work is not too large, sharpening can be done on a conventional machine, which is equipped with control over the angle of the blade edge. Knife sharpening machines in the meat processing industry mainly use KNECHT USK 160. Such machines are universal, so absolutely any knives can be sharpened on them.

At enterprises involved in woodworking and carpentry shops, they install equipment that can cope with large volumes of work. Tools used here include jointers with long blades, as well as planers. Metal sharpening occurs on equipment with a mechanical drive, which supplies the tool for sharpening.

When trying to sharpen a tool yourself using a sharpening bowl

without the use of fixation and guides, zones with different sharpening angles will form on the blade. When processing wood with a poorly sharpened tool, you will get an uneven cut and a wavy surface. The sharpening machine for flat knives has a simple vertical design. The discs are sharpened on machines with a divider and a rotating table.

Universal knife sharpening machine

This type of equipment is best suited for enterprises that perform large volumes of work per day. No one will tinker with metal by hand, since it is hard work. The VZ-319 desktop machine is equipped with a rigid frame and a precisely adjusted mechanical drive. Therefore, it copes with sharpening any type of tool - planes, cutters, knives, etc.

The Tormek T7 model is suitable for domestic use. The equipment of this unit is large; there are many attachments and additional elements for sharpening kitchen knives, scissors and other tools.

Making a knife sharpening machine with your own hands

Making a knife sharpening machine for household use is quite simple; for this you will need a piece of laminate, plywood or chipboard, a wooden strip, sandpaper, and wing bolts. The first step is to make a knife holder; for this purpose, cut a piece of material.

To avoid the block clinging to the holder, you need to sand the edge at a certain angle using sandpaper. Make a mark on the vertical stand and cut off the top; this will serve as the basis for the block. The angle is set to half that required to sharpen the blade.

For household knives, the angle is 10 - 15°. To make it easier to build a knife sharpening machine, make a drawing, it will be much easier for you. Take into account the fact that the height is affected by the transverse base. At the final stage, all elements need to be cut and sanded. Then, you need to make holes for the bolts in the plate that will secure the blade. When making markings, determine the distance of the holes from the edge of the base. This will allow you to sharpen blades of different thicknesses.

At the next stage, the plate must be secured using bolts. The vertical posts are fixed with screws. It is important to remember that the pressure on the bottom is small, so thermal glue can be used to fix the elements. The horizontal crossbar is attached in the same way.

To make a bar, you need to cut a strip of a certain length. Sandpaper with a sufficient fraction of abrasive particles is attached to one edge. In order to achieve better results in your work, you can make more bars with different abrasives. A good grit range is considered to be P600 – P2000.

Note.

In order to protect your hands from injury when sharpening a tool, screw the handle onto the top of the rack. Thus, you will receive a machine for home use with good functional qualities.

In the process of sharpening knives, the device receives support on the table, which in turn makes working with it easier.

Source: https://domsdelat.ru/instrumenty/zatochnye-stanki-dlya-nozhej-vidy-sovety-po-vyboru-izgotovlenie-svoimi-rukami-video.html

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, drawings and dimensions

Currently, there are several types: a machine for sharpening knives, a machine for a hairdressing machine, and others. This article talks about how to make a machine for sharpening knives at home: detailed drawings with dimensions, photos and videos (2-3 videos) are presented.

Rules

Often, when sharpening knives at home, household members use abrasive whetstones. However, in order to use them in practice, you need the necessary skills and experience working with them. After all, if the knife is sharpened at the wrong angle, the blade remains dull.

Layout of the block to the blade.

Before actually manufacturing the machine, you need to listen to the advice of sharpeners.

When sharpening a knife, the master performs the following actions:

Defines the angle between the working area of ​​the blade and the block. Moreover, for each model the angles are different;

The knife is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of the block. The grooves that are formed when the razor blade of the knife rubs against the block should be at 90 degrees to the knife line. The angle in such a situation is equal to half the sharpening;

Typically the angle is 25 degrees;

The mechanic begins processing from the beginning of the foot blade;

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the master paints over part of the foot blade with any marker. As a result, the mechanic directly controls the work area.

As a rule, after sharpening the working blade has non-uniform deformations. Therefore, when processing independently, the “point of reference” should not be the sharp part of the knife.

Choosing whetstones for sharpening a knife

The main indicator of a block is its grain size.

The whetstone is the main component that makes the blade thin and sharp. As a result, before choosing a design, you need to select the necessary blocks.

When sharpening knives on their own, household members use these types of whetstones

which have a high grain size. Using such bars, the shape of the leg blade is corrected.

having medium grain size. With the help of such bars, the mechanic removes the grooves that are formed during the initial processing of the knife

whetstone, which is covered with GOM paste. In such a situation, the mechanic polishes the blade.

When processing knives for the kitchen, you can use two types - with medium and high grain. And also in this case it is necessary to use a touchstone.

Base

When making a sharpening machine at home, you can use various parts. In particular, you can use laminated box plywood 12 mm thick, which was previously used to create radio equipment housings.

When constructing a machine at home, a household member performs the following actions:

Selects a base for such an installation, which must weigh at least 5 kg. Otherwise, it will be impossible to sharpen chopping devices and tools on the machine. Therefore, in the manufacture of such equipment, the tenant uses various steel angles measuring 20x20 mm;

Next, 2 parts are cut out of plywood with a jigsaw, which have a trapezoidal shape, the base is 170 by 60 mm, and the height is 230 mm. When cutting, the mechanic makes an allowance of 0.7 mm for sharpening the ends: they end up straight and fit according to the markings;

Installs 3 parts between the inclined walls on the sides - an inclined surface made of plywood with dimensions of 230 x 150 mm.

In such a situation, the trapezoidal sides are located laterally on a rectangular surface.

The result is a base - a wedge. In such a situation, a protrusion of an inclined surface measuring 40 mm is formed in the front part;

Then, along the side wall ends, the mechanic marks 2 lines with a thicknesser. At the same time, it retreats by half the thickness of the plywood;

Next, he drills 3 holes in the boards to connect the parts of the structure with screws;

Drills the ends of the inclined surface and connects the base parts for a while;

At the back of the structure, the mechanic connects the side walls using a 60x60 mm block, which is attached to the end with two screws on both sides; — makes a 10 mm gap in the block.

In such a situation, it retreats 50 mm from the center - 25 mm from the edge. To maintain a vertical position, first drill with a thin drill from 2 edges, and then expand;

Then, at the top and bottom, two threaded fittings are screwed into the gap, and in the fittings - a 10 mm pin, the length of which is 250 mm.

If the threads do not match the studs, the lower fitting is adjusted.

Tool support device

When making a handhold device, the following steps are performed:

Removes the flat inclined part from the base, modifies it and installs a fixation device on it, as well as the clamp of the device used;

Measures 40 mm from the edge in front and, using a garden hacksaw, uses this mark to cut out a groove, the depth of which is 2 mm;

Using a shoemaker's knife, chip off the top 2 veneer layers from the end of the board. The result is a sample into which the mechanic inserts a 2 mm steel plate at the same level as the general surface;

The tool rest consists of 2 steel strips measuring 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. The machine operator connects them along the large end, which has equal edge indentations, and makes 3 through slots of 6 mm.

Using bolts, tighten the planks along the cracks made. In such a situation, the machine operator leaves the bolt heads on the side of the large top plate;

Next, using electric arc welding, the bolt heads are baked and welded to the plate;

Then he removes metal defects of the weld in the form of beads and grinds the plate to give it a smooth surface;

Applies a small striker plate to the edge recess, moves the slots with a drill and secures the support with bolts.

Fixation device

The second important part of the tool rest is the clamping bar. It can be made from 2 parts.

L-shaped plank measuring 150x180 mm, the width of the shelves is 50 mm (top);

A rectangle-shaped strike plate measuring 50x100 mm (bottom).

When making a clamping bar, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Places the bottom bar on the far edge of the top bar;

Makes 2 holes in the center and retreats 25 mm from the edges of the part, connects the parts through the holes with two 8 mm bolts;

Screws in 8 mm bolts on 2 sides. In such a situation, the head of the nearest bolt is located near the top bar;

Welds the bolt heads to the plates and grinds them in advance until roundness is formed;

Yes, the inclined board retreats 40 mm from the edge and draws a line with a thicknesser;

Makes one 8 mm 25 mm gap at the bottom and top edges;

Using markings, he connects the edges of the slots and uses a jigsaw to make a cut with an allowance. Use a file to expand the groove to a width of 8.5 mm;

It fastens the planks using a groove that is in the board; the top bolt is tightened with a nut and thus firmly fastens the plank.

Then tightens connection 2 with nut;

When pressing the bottom bar (in the niche of the base), screw a wing nut onto the second bolt.

Sharpening angle control

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the mechanic performs the following actions:

Throw a large washer onto the pin, which is located in the block of the machine base, and tighten the nut.

The rod does not rotate in the foot; the block for adjusting the sharpening angle is made from a small carbolite block, the dimensions of which are 20x40x80 mm.

15 mm from the block edge, drill a 20 mm end on both sides, widen the gap to 9 mm, then make a thread inside;

He steps back 50 mm from the axis of the new slot and drills another one in the flat part of the workpiece - 90 degrees to the previous one. Such a slot has a diameter of 14 mm. In such a situation, the mechanic strongly flares the hole using a round rasp;

Screws the block onto the stud - sets the desired height of the eye without using fixing screws;

Secures the block on both sides with M10 hex nuts.

Using replaceable blocks and making a carriage

When making a sharpening carriage, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Welds 30 cm M10 threaded rods with a smooth rod whose thickness is 10 mm;

Uses 2 solid bars 50x80 mm and the thickness is 20 mm. In all blocks, in the center and on top, 20 mm is retreated from the edge, and then a gap is made 10 mm wide;

Screws a wing nut onto the rod, then a large washer and 2 bars, then a nut and washer;

Clamps rectangular sharpening stones between the stones or makes several replaceable sharpening stones.

As a timber base, the machine operator uses a rectangular tube from a profile or a piece of cornice, the width of which is 50 mm;

He sands the flat machine part and cleans it of grease, and glues strips of sandpaper with a grain size of up to 1200 grit using Super Moment glue.

The sandpaper should have a fabric base, and on one of the blocks you need to glue a strip of suede to apply polish to the blades.

Simple homemade machine

The most common type of machine design is considered to be 2 pairs of wooden slats, which are fastened together with screws. The machine operator installs a block between such parts.

The main reason for the popularity of using a hand- made homemade machine for sharpening various knives is its stability. During operation, the machine structure does not move in any way on the workbench.

When fixing the block, the mechanic uses support strips that are located between the wooden elements.

However, such a homemade machine has the following disadvantages:

The master positions the blade to the stone manually. When working for a long time, it is difficult to keep track of the sharpening angle;

When making such an installation, it is necessary to use a fixing unit. The machine structure must be stable, so it must be firmly mounted on the workbench;

During the work, the ties loosen and the location of the block changes.

Another advantage of such a scheme is ease of manufacture. This machine design is most often used when sharpening knives for jointers and for the kitchen.

Wood slats can be of different thicknesses. When making a simple sharpening machine yourself, you can use various available components.

When first studying all the nuances of manufacturing, you need to watch thematic videos that describe in detail how to make a machine at home.

Source: https://stanki-info.ru/dlya-zatochki-nozhej-svoimi-rukami.html