How to make a knife sharpener

Homemade tools for sharpening knives with your own hands

Every housewife at least once in her life has been faced with the fact that the knives with which she usually cuts bread, butchers meat or chops vegetables become dull in her kitchen. Using such knives is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous, because the blade can fall off the product and injure you.

Therefore, it is necessary to periodically sharpen the tool using special devices. In stores, such devices are presented in a huge assortment, but for certain reasons they do not suit consumers. In such a situation, you can make a knife sharpener yourself.

In principle, it is not difficult to find drawings and diagrams for work, and we will provide detailed master classes in this article.

What conditions must be observed when sharpening knives?

Do you know how to sharpen knives correctly? In fact, there are a number of rules, following which you can achieve an ideal result.

The necessary conditions look like this:

• For long-term and efficient operation of knives, when sharpening them, it is necessary to pay maximum attention to the angle between the edges of the blade. During sharpening, it is imperative to restore the initially specified angle so that it meets technological standards and allows you to cut products quickly, efficiently, and freely.
• It is necessary to choose the optimal angle for each blade. So, for example, a scalpel or razor should have an angle of 10-15 degrees, devices for cutting fruits, bread and vegetables - 15-20 degrees. Knives for working with hard materials need to be sharpened at an angle of 30-40 degrees.
• Without a special device, sharpening a blade is quite difficult. Holding the knife with your hands only, it is difficult to achieve the desired angle of inclination. So, it is precisely to facilitate this process that sharpeners exist.

In fact, making a knife with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears, because all such devices have a simple design and it won’t take you much time to create them.

Types and production of sharpening stones

There are a large number of stones available for sale for sharpening knives, but the most popular types are the following:

• Water tools. Working with them necessarily involves the use of water, thereby saving the surface of the stones.
• Oil stone. It is very similar in shape and structure to water, the only difference is that its surface is slightly oily.
• Natural stones. They are made from natural materials that have previously undergone industrial processing.
• Artificial tools. They are made from non-natural components.
• Rubber devices. They are no less often found on sale, but working with them is extremely inconvenient.

Before you make a knife in the form of an abrasive bar, you need to purchase several glass plates 4-5 mm thick, rectangular in shape.

Then make a sharpener according to the scheme:

1. Using double-sided tape, apply sandpaper of different grit levels to the surface of the plates.
2. Tighten the nuts carefully to prevent the glass from cracking.

Important! During the operation of such a device, water is not used, which is why the abrasive wears out quite quickly.

When sharpening knives with an abrasive stone, you should avoid too sudden movements, otherwise it will overheat and the blade will lose its useful properties.

Products for sharpening knives made from wooden blocks

Making a sharpener from two abrasive and two wooden blocks is quite simple, the main thing is that the starting materials are the same size.

You will need to do the following:

• Thoroughly sand the wooden blocks with sandpaper and remove all burrs.
• Pre-mark the bars, taking into account the required angle of inclination.
• Place a stone on the resulting line and mark its width on both sides of the wooden block.
• Make cuts according to the markings on the wooden workpiece.

Important! Make sure that their depth does not exceed 1.5 cm.

• Insert the abrasive stones into the resulting recesses so that they align with the grooves.
• Secure the sharpening stones with bolts and attach a piece of rubber to the bottom.

Do-it-yourself knife from mounting corners

Use this master class to make a high-quality knife with your own hands. You can get the drawings on the Internet.

Tools and materials required for work:

• Metal plates 4 by 11 cm.
• Standard size aluminum corners.
• Metal rods 15 cm long.
• Sharpening machine with vice.
• Needle file.
• Set of bolts and nuts.
• File.

Make a sharpener according to these instructions:

1. Make markings according to the drawing for the holes in the plates.
2. Drill holes, cut threads.
3. Round off sharp edges and corners with a file.
4. In accordance with the diagram, make holes in the corner.
5. Use a file to widen the spoke support.
6. Tap the holes for the studs.
7. Insert the rods into the outer holes and secure them with nuts.
8. Screw the bolt into the widest hole with the nut pre-screwed onto it.
9. Insert bolts to clamp the knife into the remaining holes.
10. Screw the nuts onto the ends of the rods, and place a corner on top to secure the nuts.
11. Using a thin metal rod, a wing nut, and two holders, assemble a device to hold the sharpening stone.

Important! Such a sharpener can have a wide range of degrees of pressure angle; it is incredibly convenient to use.

Making an electric knife sharpener at home

Making an electric knife with your own hands is a little more complicated, because the device itself has a complex design.

Prepare the following materials and devices:

• Vacuum cleaner.
• Plan-puck.
• Electrical engine.
• Stanin.
• Fencing.

Complete the work strictly following the diagram:

1. Attach the electric motor directly under the stand. In addition, it must be equipped with control buttons for starting and stopping work.
2. Install a plan washer on the output shaft, cover it with a square guard with pre-cut grooves.
3. Make a hole on the bottom of the table that matches the size of the vacuum cleaner sleeve.

Important! The electric motor does not have to be mounted under the base of the plan washer. You can use a belt drive, which will slightly complicate the design itself.

material

With the help of the listed devices, you will be able to sharpen knives with high quality, which will serve you for a long time, without becoming dull, without breaking, without jumping off the food.

Source: https://steelfactoryrus.com/samodelnye-prisposobleniya-dlya-zatochki-nozhey-svoimi-rukami/

DIY knife sharpening device

> Knife sharpening

19.08.2019

You can sharpen a dull knife yourself without going to a workshop and wasting money - you just need a grinding stone and a steady hand. The difficulty is that it is not easy for a person without experience to maintain the angle of the blade in relation to the abrasive stone, and without this the knife can be damaged: bent, twisted or dulled even more.

It is more convenient to restore the sharpness of the cutting edge with a device that can be easily made in 2 hours from scrap materials - those leftovers that can be found on the balcony, in the garage or shed. A DIY knife sharpener can be either a primitive system or a complex functional unit.

A knife sharpening device will make your work much easier.

Main types of homemade devices

The main condition for homemade knife blades is not to distort the angle between the edges of the blades specified in production. It is not easy to hold it by hand without a trained hand and skill.

The device fixes the sharpening angle, so sharpening a knife with a special tool is much easier than with a whetstone.

The simplest and most popular sharpeners are listed below, each of which you can make yourself:

1. Selecting a quality stone. If you have a sharpening stone in the shape of a roof with two slopes, you can easily restore the sharpness of a dull instrument. This “house” is easy to work with: the blade is attached to one roof slope, and its other side is sharpened with an abrasive stone, making horizontal movements. Then the knife is turned over and the second surface of the blade is processed. The convenience and effectiveness of the method is that you do not need to maintain the angle between the blades with your hands; it is fixed by the shape and angle of the bar.
2. A simple home sharpening device can be made from two wooden triangles. They are placed parallel to each other and connected with wing screws. The sharpening stone is fixed between wooden supports at an angle, which can be changed if desired. The required inclination of the abrasive can be easily set using a protractor or a program on a tablet.

   When processing blades on triangles, the knife must be held 100% vertically. If such a design is used for a long time, the ties may weaken and the set degree of the beam will change, and with it the sharpening angle.

3. Instead of vertical triangles, you can make a reliable horizontal base from wood, plastic or metal. It must have movable mechanisms for fixing the sharpening stones. The idea is that it should be possible to set different angles of inclination of the bars. Abrasive stones are inserted into holes in the base and fastened. The knife “walks” vertically. Such a device must be held by hand so that it does not move on the table or secured with clamps.
4. You can make a sharpener from a stable block that is attached to a rolling cart with wheels. The knife is sharpened by moving the hand back and forth. The sharpening angle is determined by the height of the block in relation to the working surface. This device is used for working with kitchen knives and only on a flat plane. It happens that the sharpening angle during movement deviates slightly from the specified one. For greater accuracy, the structure should stand still in place.
5. A more complex device, the manufacture of which will require time and effort, involves not only fixing the beam, but also the ability to adjust its position. The peculiarity of the system is as follows: the knife blade is securely fixed on a horizontal support, the sharpening stone is attached to the guide, and a slotted bar is made on the vertical stand. Thanks to the hole in the vertical support, the guide with a fixed abrasive surface can be moved and the angle of the blade can be adjusted. With this method, maximum accuracy is achieved.

A sharpening (abrasive) bar or stone is a necessary element of any factory or homemade device for sharpening a knife. It is convenient when it has the shape of a rectangle (it should be longer than the blade), it makes it easier to sharpen the tool.

Stones come in different grain sizes: coarse, medium and fine.

It is determined by the number of grains per unit area and is expressed as a number; the smaller it is, the rougher the stone.

To sharpen knives, you will need stones with medium and fine grain.

To sharpen knives, abrasives with a grain size of 200-350 are not used. Such grains can deform the blade. Knives are sharpened on medium-grain whetstones - from 600. After the main processing, the blade is ground and brought to a shine with 1000-1200 grain sandpaper.

A double-sided whetstone, with a rough abrasive surface on one side and a more refined one on the other, is doubly convenient, since it can be used for basic knife sharpening and finishing work.

Stones also differ in the material from which they are made. Natural - from shale and corundum rocks. These stones have a large grain and are quickly ground down because they are moistened with water or oil during operation.

There are diamond and ceramic bars, which are more wear-resistant and will last longer than natural ones.

Making a simple model yourself

All homemade devices for sharpening knives help to accurately maintain a given angle of inclination of the block to the blade, which is important for maintaining the functionality of the tool and obtaining a good cutting edge of the blade.

A machine designed by Lansky is easy to assemble yourself. To do it, you do not need special training or special technical knowledge. You will need a minimum of simple materials that are always at hand. In a store, such a machine costs about 1,500 rubles.

The operating principle of the Lansky machine is that the knife is securely fixed and processed at a given angle using replaceable sharpening attachments made of stone of different grain sizes. The result is a sharp blade edge.

Step-by-step master class

Required consumables:

1. A metal rod with a diameter of 6 mm, which must be cut into rods of different lengths.
2. Welding electrode for the manufacture of corner guides. It is completely cleaned of flux and sanded with medium-grain sandpaper.
3. Carbon stainless steel 3-5mm thick for clamps. Through holes are made in them. Tip: machine oil will make it easier to drill slots in the plates. You can wash off the oil with a concentrated solution of soap residue.
4. Metal corners measuring 9x9x0.6 cm.
5. Fasteners: nuts, screws.

Sequencing:

1. Using a grinding machine with a diamond disc (grinder), the corners are cut, the edges of which are then smoothed with a file and sanded with sandpaper.
2. Holes are drilled in horizontal and vertical planes.
3. The bevels of the guide rail are processed.
4. A stand is made from a bolt and nut. Then they secure it in a clamp or vice so that the entire structure is securely fixed.
5. Assemble the entire device.
6. Attach the abrasive and knife.
7. Testing the device.

Blade sharpening rules

There are several subtleties that are important when sharpening knives:

• It is recommended to start processing the blade from the base of the knife, from its bluntest part;
• It is recommended to paint the edge of the blade with a marker in any color so that when sharpening it does not protrude beyond the working area;
• the sharp edge should be perpendicular to the sharpening stone;
• household knives are sharpened at an angle of 20-25º;
• The movements must also be correct: sharpening must be smooth and even, without much pressure;
• Finally, the blade can be passed several times along a belt rubbed with goyi paste.

Knife sharpening angle diagram.

Device for sharpening from mounting angles

The prototype of a homemade sharpening device made from mounting angles is a drawing of the aforementioned professional Lansky sharpener.

To make such a device you need:

• metal plates 4x11cm;
• aluminum corners;
• metal rods 15cm long;
• bolts and nuts;
• tap for thread cutting;
• metal sharpening machine;
• vice or clamps;
• small file for fine sanding work.

You can do without a sharpening machine. It will be replaced by a file or any tool that can smooth out the sharp corners of metal structures.

You can make a high-quality knife with your own hands from mounting corners.

Assembly sequence:

1. On the metal plates, according to the diagram, markings are made on where to drill the grooves.
2. Threads are cut in the prepared tap holes.
3. To make the sharpener comfortable, all surfaces of the metal structure are processed with a file: sharp corners are rounded, burrs are filed, edges are smoothed;
4. Holes are drilled in the corners according to the drawing.
5. Use a file to expand the space for supporting the rod.
6. The holes are threaded with a tap.
7. Nuts with a diameter of 6 mm are used to tighten the rods inserted into the outer grooves.
8. A 14 cm bolt with a diameter of 8 mm is screwed into the expanded hole of the base. Before this, you need to screw a wing nut onto the bolt, and two nuts onto it. This bolt will be the support pillar of the entire structure.
9. Bolts are attached to the remaining grooves. With their help the blade will be fixed.
10. Nuts are screwed onto the rods, the corner is threaded and secured. The sharpening angle will be adjusted by raising or lowering the rods.
11. A device for fastening an abrasive stone is assembled from a thin L-shaped metal rod, a threaded rod with a diameter of 6 mm, two holders and a wing nut. The outermost holder must have a through hole for the knitting needle.

This knife sharpening device is quick to assemble, easy to use, and has a wide range of sharpening angle degrees.

Why is the sharpening angle so important?

The cutting wedge angle (the distance between the edges of the blade) is an important characteristic of any knife. It is set during production, depends on what function the cutting tool performs and varies from 55º (machete) to 10º (scalpel).

• for chopping and cutting hard materials - splitting bone, chopping bamboo, splitting coconut - you need a durable cutter with an angle between the edges of the blades of 45-55º;
• knives for separating meat from bones and cutting fibers with veins are sharpened at an angle of 40º;
• for a blade similar in functionality to an ax (it can be used to chop wood, chop meat, cut straw), an angle of 35-40º is typical;
• universal knives (hunting or fishing) are sharpened at an angle of 30-35º;
• for standard kitchen work (cutting bread, vegetables, cheese), an angle of 25-30º is suitable;
• for cutting fillets, the tool is sharpened at an angle of 10-15º;
• an angle of 8-12º is provided for the blade of a straight razor and scalpel.

In order for the knife to work correctly and serve for a long time, it is important to sharpen it at the right angle.

DIY knife sharpening device Link to main publication

Source: https://VashNozh.ru/zatochka/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-nozhej-svoimi-rukami

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, drawings and dimensions

Currently, there are several types: a machine for sharpening knives, a machine for a hairdressing machine, and others. This article talks about how to make a machine for sharpening knives at home: detailed drawings with dimensions, photos and videos (2-3 videos) are presented.

Rules

Often, when sharpening knives at home, household members use abrasive whetstones. However, in order to use them in practice, you need the necessary skills and experience working with them. After all, if the knife is sharpened at the wrong angle, the blade remains dull.

Layout of the block to the blade.

Before actually manufacturing the machine, you need to listen to the advice of sharpeners.

When sharpening a knife, the master performs the following actions:

Defines the angle between the working area of ​​the blade and the block. Moreover, for each model the angles are different;

The knife is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of the block. The grooves that are formed when the razor blade of the knife rubs against the block should be at 90 degrees to the knife line. The angle in such a situation is equal to half the sharpening;

Typically the angle is 25 degrees;

The mechanic begins processing from the beginning of the foot blade;

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the master paints over part of the foot blade with any marker. As a result, the mechanic directly controls the work area.

As a rule, after sharpening the working blade has non-uniform deformations. Therefore, when processing independently, the “point of reference” should not be the sharp part of the knife.

Choosing whetstones for sharpening a knife

The main indicator of a block is its grain size.

The whetstone is the main component that makes the blade thin and sharp. As a result, before choosing a design, you need to select the necessary blocks.

When sharpening knives on their own, household members use these types of whetstones

which have a high grain size. Using such bars, the shape of the leg blade is corrected.

having medium grain size. With the help of such bars, the mechanic removes the grooves that are formed during the initial processing of the knife

whetstone, which is covered with GOM paste. In such a situation, the mechanic polishes the blade.

When processing knives for the kitchen, you can use two types - with medium and high grain. And also in this case it is necessary to use a touchstone.

Base

When making a sharpening machine at home, you can use various parts. In particular, you can use laminated box plywood 12 mm thick, which was previously used to create radio equipment housings.

When constructing a machine at home, a household member performs the following actions:

Selects a base for such an installation, which must weigh at least 5 kg. Otherwise, it will be impossible to sharpen chopping devices and tools on the machine. Therefore, in the manufacture of such equipment, the tenant uses various steel angles measuring 20x20 mm;

Next, 2 parts are cut out of plywood with a jigsaw, which have a trapezoidal shape, the base is 170 by 60 mm, and the height is 230 mm. When cutting, the mechanic makes an allowance of 0.7 mm for sharpening the ends: they end up straight and fit according to the markings;

Installs 3 parts between the inclined walls on the sides - an inclined surface made of plywood with dimensions of 230 x 150 mm.

In such a situation, the trapezoidal sides are located laterally on a rectangular surface.

The result is a base - a wedge. In such a situation, a protrusion of an inclined surface measuring 40 mm is formed in the front part;

Then, along the side wall ends, the mechanic marks 2 lines with a thicknesser. At the same time, it retreats by half the thickness of the plywood;

Next, he drills 3 holes in the boards to connect the parts of the structure with screws;

Drills the ends of the inclined surface and connects the base parts for a while;

At the back of the structure, the mechanic connects the side walls using a 60x60 mm block, which is attached to the end with two screws on both sides; — makes a 10 mm gap in the block.

In such a situation, it retreats 50 mm from the center - 25 mm from the edge. To maintain a vertical position, first drill with a thin drill from 2 edges, and then expand;

Then, at the top and bottom, two threaded fittings are screwed into the gap, and in the fittings - a 10 mm pin, the length of which is 250 mm.

If the threads do not match the studs, the lower fitting is adjusted.

Tool support device

When making a handhold device, the following steps are performed:

Removes the flat inclined part from the base, modifies it and installs a fixation device on it, as well as the clamp of the device used;

Measures 40 mm from the edge in front and, using a garden hacksaw, uses this mark to cut out a groove, the depth of which is 2 mm;

Using a shoemaker's knife, chip off the top 2 veneer layers from the end of the board. The result is a sample into which the mechanic inserts a 2 mm steel plate at the same level as the general surface;

The tool rest consists of 2 steel strips measuring 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. The machine operator connects them along the large end, which has equal edge indentations, and makes 3 through slots of 6 mm.

Using bolts, tighten the planks along the cracks made. In such a situation, the machine operator leaves the bolt heads on the side of the large top plate;

Next, using electric arc welding, the bolt heads are baked and welded to the plate;

Then he removes metal defects of the weld in the form of beads and grinds the plate to give it a smooth surface;

Applies a small striker plate to the edge recess, moves the slots with a drill and secures the support with bolts.

Fixation device

The second important part of the tool rest is the clamping bar. It can be made from 2 parts.

L-shaped plank measuring 150x180 mm, the width of the shelves is 50 mm (top);

A rectangle-shaped strike plate measuring 50x100 mm (bottom).

When making a clamping bar, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Places the bottom bar on the far edge of the top bar;

Makes 2 holes in the center and retreats 25 mm from the edges of the part, connects the parts through the holes with two 8 mm bolts;

Screws in 8 mm bolts on 2 sides. In such a situation, the head of the nearest bolt is located near the top bar;

Welds the bolt heads to the plates and grinds them in advance until roundness is formed;

Yes, the inclined board retreats 40 mm from the edge and draws a line with a thicknesser;

Makes one 8 mm 25 mm gap at the bottom and top edges;

Using markings, he connects the edges of the slots and uses a jigsaw to make a cut with an allowance. Use a file to expand the groove to a width of 8.5 mm;

It fastens the planks using a groove that is in the board; the top bolt is tightened with a nut and thus firmly fastens the plank.

Then tightens connection 2 with nut;

When pressing the bottom bar (in the niche of the base), screw a wing nut onto the second bolt.

Sharpening angle control

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the mechanic performs the following actions:

Throw a large washer onto the pin, which is located in the block of the machine base, and tighten the nut.

The rod does not rotate in the foot; the block for adjusting the sharpening angle is made from a small carbolite block, the dimensions of which are 20x40x80 mm.

15 mm from the block edge, drill a 20 mm end on both sides, widen the gap to 9 mm, then make a thread inside;

He steps back 50 mm from the axis of the new slot and drills another one in the flat part of the workpiece - 90 degrees to the previous one. Such a slot has a diameter of 14 mm. In such a situation, the mechanic strongly flares the hole using a round rasp;

Screws the block onto the stud - sets the desired height of the eye without using fixing screws;

Secures the block on both sides with M10 hex nuts.

Using replaceable blocks and making a carriage

When making a sharpening carriage, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Welds 30 cm M10 threaded rods with a smooth rod whose thickness is 10 mm;

Uses 2 solid bars 50x80 mm and the thickness is 20 mm. In all blocks, in the center and on top, 20 mm is retreated from the edge, and then a gap is made 10 mm wide;

Screws a wing nut onto the rod, then a large washer and 2 bars, then a nut and washer;

Clamps rectangular sharpening stones between the stones or makes several replaceable sharpening stones.

As a timber base, the machine operator uses a rectangular tube from a profile or a piece of cornice, the width of which is 50 mm;

He sands the flat machine part and cleans it of grease, and glues strips of sandpaper with a grain size of up to 1200 grit using Super Moment glue.

The sandpaper should have a fabric base, and on one of the blocks you need to glue a strip of suede to apply polish to the blades.

Simple homemade machine

The most common type of machine design is considered to be 2 pairs of wooden slats, which are fastened together with screws. The machine operator installs a block between such parts.

The main reason for the popularity of using a hand- made homemade machine for sharpening various knives is its stability. During operation, the machine structure does not move in any way on the workbench.

When fixing the block, the mechanic uses support strips that are located between the wooden elements.

However, such a homemade machine has the following disadvantages:

The master positions the blade to the stone manually. When working for a long time, it is difficult to keep track of the sharpening angle;

When making such an installation, it is necessary to use a fixing unit. The machine structure must be stable, so it must be firmly mounted on the workbench;

During the work, the ties loosen and the location of the block changes.

Another advantage of such a scheme is ease of manufacture. This machine design is most often used when sharpening knives for jointers and for the kitchen.

Wood slats can be of different thicknesses. When making a simple sharpening machine yourself, you can use various available components.

When first studying all the nuances of manufacturing, you need to watch thematic videos that describe in detail how to make a machine at home.

Source: https://stanki-info.ru/dlya-zatochki-nozhej-svoimi-rukami.html

Devices for sharpening knives, design and manufacture

Almost every home craftsman has cutting tools. Over time, the cutting edges lose their former sharpness, and working with such a product becomes unbearable. There are two options for solving this problem: have the tool sharpened and pay a lot of money, or assemble a knife sharpening device yourself and sharpen the products yourself.

Causes of blade dulling

The dulling of the blade can be explained as follows. During cutting, the blade is exposed to tiny abrasive particles, be it fruits or vegetables. The cutting edge of the blade gradually wears off and the knife becomes dull. Another reason is to hold the blade when cutting at a certain angle.

Some areas of the blade are subject to increased stress and increased wear.

Correct sharpening of knives

There are types of knives that are impossible to sharpen yourself due to the textured blades. Also, knives made from ceramics cannot be sharpened. But, as a rule, the quality of the steel in such products is high, and they rarely become dull. There are a variety of knives of low quality, and they have to be sharpened very often. As practice shows, if the steel is of poor quality, then sharpening will solve the problem for a while, and then the blade will become dull again.

To sharpen knives you will need abrasive wheels. If it is not possible to purchase ready-made circles, you can make them yourself using wooden blocks and sandpaper of different grain sizes.

The standard sharpening angle is 20 - 30 degrees. It is quite difficult to maintain the angle during sharpening, and therefore it is necessary to make a simple knife sharpener, in which it is not necessary to maintain the optimal angle. The basic rule in this process is maintaining a precisely specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.

Basic mistakes

As it may seem at first glance, sharpening is simple, but if you delve into the process itself, you will notice a fairly large number of different nuances. Most people make simple mistakes when sharpening knives, which leads to uneven sharpening or damage to the knife. Common mistakes when sharpening:

• The cutting edge was not sharpened . As a result, small burrs form on the sides, which temporarily give sharpness to the blade, and after working with the knife for a short time, the blade again becomes dull. To prevent this problem, you should carefully sharpen both edges, and then, as you sharpen, use sandpaper or a wheel of different grits.
• Presence of paint, oil, dirt on the tip . The bottom line is that during turning, fat, dirt, oil and other components mix with grinding abrasives and lead to scratches and microchips of the blade. After such sharpening, the blade quickly becomes dull.
• Pressure plays an important role . You need to remember one simple rule: sharpness does not depend on the force used, but on the duration of sharpening. Excessively strong pressure leads to chipping of microparticles from the blade and poor sharpening.
• Wrong choice of angle . The angle may vary depending on the grade of steel and the purpose of the tool. For home kitchen knives it is 20 - 25 degrees. For other types of blades that will have to withstand heavy loads and work with hard materials, the angle will be 40 degrees.

Source: https://pochini.guru/sovety-mastera/prisposobleniya-dlya-zatochki-nozhey

DIY knife sharpeners, drawings, dimensions

· 09.09.2019

The first video shows the sharpener itself, for sharpening knives. The second part presents drawings of this device. Below are two more options for what you were looking for.

Today we’ll show you how you can modify a simplified sharpener. , which I did earlier. The knife attachment in the sharpener was purely mechanical. You can see more details about the mount and sharpener in the corresponding video.

In the new sharpener, firstly, it was necessary to retain this mechanical fastening without a magnet, secondly, in the same sharpener it was necessary to add a knife fastening purely on one magnet, and thirdly, to use both a mechanical fastening and a fastening with a magnet. And for this, just for a simplified sharpener, there is a simple solution. We'll show you.

I called the sharpener a combination sharpener. What did he do in it? First, I found a rectangular magnet on the Internet. It turns out that the Internet is already in full swing, and you no longer need to tinker with hard drives, remove the magnet from there, and then mill it into different shaped positions for the magnet.

It makes making a sharpener with such a rectangular magnet much easier. The length of the magnet in this sharpener is 40 mm, width 10 mm, thickness 5 mm. The pressing force of such a small magnet is 8 kg. The milling operator milled the slot for the magnet to size, so that the magnet itself was in alignment with the frame.

The bed remains the same, made of carbon steel.

When you place a magnet in a groove, it sticks there with its main plane and two side planes, on one side and on the other. And because of this, there was no need to glue it, which simplifies this assembly process. Just in case of emergency, in order to remove and replace this magnet, I first drilled a threaded hole in the groove so that the boot could be screwed in there and, accordingly, out of the groove and replaced. Everything else about the sharpener remains the same, without changes.

I'll tell you about the principle of operation. In this position, you can also use a pure magnet mount, in which case the clamping bar itself acts as a stop for the knife. Sharpener weight – 2 kg.

You can use both the magnet fastening and this mechanical fastening at the same time; in this case, we place the clamping bar on top, clamp it, and the side bars will act as stops for the knife.

Drawings of this device.
Finalization of the device with all drawings.

A knife is a dangerous but useful item. It is impossible to do without it in the kitchen, on a hike, while hunting, or when working on various machines with cutting elements. Any knife must be looked after so that it does not lose its sharpness.

That is why it is necessary to have a reliable knife sharpening device on hand. Craftsmen sharpen them on a factory-made sharpening machine, but the simplest device can be made independently.

The main thing is to know the specifics of sharpening cutting tools so as not to make mistakes in the calculations.

Basics of Proper Blade Sharpening

Even housewives have several knives for different purposes. One device is used to cut bread and baked goods, another to cut meat, and a third to chop cartilage and bones. There are hunting and fishing knives. Each of them differs from the other by its individual sharpening angle. This concept defines the purpose of the cutting object.

The sharpening angle is visible if the knife has not been sharpened at home. It can be seen when purchasing a new knife - before you start actively using it.

Manual sharpening of cutting tools is a painstaking task that requires strict adherence to the angle. Factory machines make this task easier, but are very expensive - from 20,000 rubles and more.

If you are a fan of homemade crafts, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, and if you need drawings, you can always find them on the Internet. It will take time, but it won't cost that much.

It is known that homemade devices are no worse than factory ones and serve for many years.

The concept of sharpening angle

Its size is different for one type of blade or another. The angle dimensions for different cutting tools look like this:

• 8-12 degrees for straight razors;
• 10-15 degrees for fillet knives;
• 15-20 degrees for household tools;
• 20-25 degrees for knives for fishing and hunting purposes. Depending on the needs of the hunter or fisherman, the angle can be greater - up to 40 degrees;
• 30-50 degrees for blades for special applications (for example, for a machete, which is used for cutting and chopping bamboo, vines and tree trunks).

Whetstone and its features

The process of sharpening knives is impossible without a sharpening stone. Like emery, it has different degrees of grain size - fine, medium or coarse. This division is arbitrary for different countries. An approximate gradation of a sharpening stone looks like this:

• from 200 to 250 - extra-coarse fraction, which is not used for sharpening;
• from 300 to 350 - rough. This sharpener is used to process blades that are damaged or severely dull. Also, the coarse fraction is used if you plan to change the sharpening angle;
• from 400 to 500 - average. It is rarely found in retail sales because craftsmen rarely use it;
• from 600 to 700 - small. These bars are universal and suitable for most knives;
• from 1000 to 1200 - extra fine. With its help, you can give the blade the same shine as a mirror.

There are whetstones made from diamonds, ceramics or slate rocks. They can be natural or artificial. Bars of natural origin wear out faster than artificial ones. Among them, small-fraction products are rarely found.

Before use, you need to treat the bars with water. As liquid is absorbed and sharpened, the abrasive particles turn into a thick paste. The paste promotes high quality sharpening. For greater effectiveness, you can use soap mixed with water.

When choosing a bar, you need to take into account its shape and length. The length of the sharpener should be longer than the blade. It is most convenient to work on a double-sided sharpener , when there is a fine-grained abrasive on one side of the whetstone, and coarse-grained material on the other.

Rules for manual sharpening of knives

It is impossible to handle the machine without manual sharpening skills. If you are new to this business, you first need to learn how to sharpen blades using a whetstone. Knives sharpened by hand have no worse cutting quality. The algorithm of actions when working with a bar looks like this:

• Place the block on a flat surface. Use a medium- or coarse-grit whetstone;
• secure it so that it does not fall off the table while working;
• determine the sharpening angle (its number will be equal to half the angle that is selected);
• hold the blade at this angle;
• all movements must be consistent: do not put pressure on the sharpener;
• start sharpening in the opposite direction from you;
• Make sure that during one pass the blade passes the entire area of ​​the block. This can be achieved by gently turning the handle of the knife as the blade approaches the rounded edge of the whetstone;
• After each movement, try to keep the blade on the surface of the stone. Do not let it break, so as not to dull the knife and damage it on the side;
• Make all movements back and forth consistently, slowly.

Source: https://vi-pole.ru/tochilki-dlja-nozhej-svoimi-rukami-chertezhi.html

DIY knife sharpening device, drawings

To perform their functions, knives must always be sharp. Any housewife who uses a knife to cut food knows how quickly it becomes dull.

To properly sharpen a knife, you need special skills. It is not enough to know at what angle you need to sharpen the knife, you also need to hold it correctly while sharpening. If this does not work, the result will be disastrous - the blade will not be sharp.

• DIY knife sharpening device
• What you need to know about knife sharpening
• Choosing a sharpening angle
• The best knife sharpening devices
• Mechanical knife sharpeners
• Simple knife sharpening machine
• Sharpening planing knives
• Useful tips
• Conclusion

DIY knife sharpening device

To sharpen a blade , you need to buy a special device or make it yourself. You can find many different sharpening accessories in stores. Having used any of them, you conclude that it is inconvenient. In this case, you need to make a convenient device yourself. A DIY knife sharpener is convenient and much cheaper.

What you need to know about knife sharpening

The knife can be used for any job. Even in the kitchen there should be several of them: for bread and meat, fish and cheese, peeling vegetables, chopping bones and cutting hard objects.

They are taken for hunting and fishing. If you look closely, you can see that they are all sharpened at different angles. The purpose of the blade determines its sharpening angle .

Choosing a sharpening angle

For each specific case, the blade sharpening angle :

1. For straight razors and scalpels, the sharpening angle is 8-12°. This makes it possible to cut hairs, and trying to cut something else will quickly dull the blade;
2. fillet knives – 10-15°;
3. kitchen knives for food products are sharpened at an angle of 15-20°;
4. hunting - an angle of 20-25°: a blade with such an edge can handle soft foods, bones, wood, etc. Few manufacturers of hunting knives sharpen the blade at an angle of up to 40°. It cuts much worse, but does an excellent job with cans and other similar work;
5. special-purpose knives (for example, machetes) have an angle of 30-50°. They are heavy and will be inconvenient for cutting food. But they cope very well with trunks and vines.

These recommendations were shared by experts with many years of experience, each of whom made a machine for sharpening knives with their own hands. It will not be news to many that some blades have several zones with different sharpening. This makes them more versatile, but the difficulty of sharpening them automatically increases.

The sharpening tool must be able to set the required sharpening angle. Because of this, a DIY knife sharpener is difficult to design.

The sharpening design consists of 2 parts:

• a block of abrasive material;
• angle for attaching the knife.

The best knife sharpening devices

A device can already be called the best if it is able to effectively sharpen a tool and ensure its unquestioned operation for a short time. The bar can be made from the following materials:

• stone;
• wooden block;
• mounting angle.

several types of stones for the bar

1. water - involve the use of water: you can save the surface of the stone - it will last longer;
2. oil - similar in shape and structure to water, their surface is more oily;
3. natural - natural stones that have undergone industrial processing;
4. artificial - stones made from non-natural materials.

Mechanical knife sharpeners

What is the name of the knife sharpening device? Mechanical devices start from well-known musats and end with entire installations and machines. When using such a device, you need to make a certain effort to achieve results. Mechanical blades have different abrasive surfaces:

• grindstone;
• Musat;
• mechanical sharpener.

A sharpening stone is a kind of machine. To use it to sharpen a knife blade, you need to start from the area near the handle, gradually moving to the tip of the blade. The force must be applied to the handle at an angle.

Musat is a metal rod with an abrasive coating. It can have either a plastic or wooden handle. This tool is most often used at home. This is the name of a device for sharpening knives. Not everyone knows how to use it correctly.

The musat is held vertically on a cutting board, the knife is passed with the blade along the musat at an angle of 10-15°. To determine the correct sharpening angle, imagine that you are cutting the bark from a branch. The movements need to start from the handle and end with the tip of the blade; movements along the moussaka are obtained from top to bottom, without pressure.

You need to sharpen both sides at the same time, change them and move from the handle to the tip.

A lot is known about the mechanical sharpener. There is such a tool in every home; it needs to be changed periodically. It wears out quickly. The blade can be sharpened with a sharp movement, passing the blade between the stones.

At home, you can make the simplest abrasive stone - a sharpener. To do this, you need two rectangular glass plates, the thickness of which is 4-5 mm. Sandpaper of different grain sizes is glued to the surface using double-sided tape.

You can make sharpening from wooden blocks . You will need 4 bars of the same size: 2 wooden, and 2 abrasive. The wood is sanded, removing all burrs using sandpaper. Markings are applied to them depending on the desired angle, a sharpening stone is applied to them and its width is fixed. On the markings, cuts are made with a depth of 1.5 cm. Abrasive bars are inserted into the recesses and secured with bolts.

Let's consider the action of the clamping device. The knife is fixed and remains motionless, and the stone makes translational movements. It forms a smooth cutting edge on the edge of the knife at the required angle. To make the blade perfectly sharp, you need to consistently change the sharpening stones. It must be remembered that the stones must move strictly perpendicular to the area that is being sharpened.

Chisels and plane knives can be sharpened at home. You need to make a basic device where the sharpening angle will be fixed. Sharpening is carried out strictly on sanding paper.

Simple knife sharpening machine

To make it you need two pairs of slats and a block. The slats are connected to each other using adjustable screws, and a block is installed between them. The structure must be stable, it is not advisable to move it on the desktop. To better secure the block, you need to provide support strips that can be placed between the wooden components.

a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. You need to prepare the necessary tool.

This machine has disadvantages:

• it is not always possible to control the sharpening angle, especially if you work for a long time;
• the structure is unstable, another fixation unit is needed;
• You need to regularly tighten the screws so that the location of the bar does not change.

Sharpening planing knives

This is a complex process that requires certain knowledge and skills. It is difficult to find a device for sharpening planing knives on sale. Many people do this using regular sharpening tools. For this case, it is recommended to purchase a modern low-speed sharpener, which is equipped with water cooling.

To make a planing knife sharp , you need to find a smooth and ungreasy stone that is used in this area. A water stone is perfect.

You can sharpen such a knife in any car workshop that has a tool for sharpening knives. For an additional fee, any blade will be made sharp for you using a special machine.

Useful tips

There are two types of knife sharpening : single-sided and double-sided. Working methods will differ from each other. This needs to be taken into account.

When choosing a quality block, you need to choose a stone with a medium grain.

Knives that have special coatings for cutting edges do not need to be sharpened. They are made of especially hard alloys that protect the blade from wear.

You should not try to sharpen a sharpener with a special cutting edge in the form of teeth in the usual way. For such a blade, you need to use laser control, which is not available in an ordinary apartment.

You should not wash blades frequently with hot water, as this will dull the blades faster.

To quickly sharpen a blade without having a special tool at hand, use a regular ceramic mug. Its bottom usually has a rough rim not covered with glaze - it can be used instead of a stone. The method is suitable for auxiliary pointing.

, the method of sharpening blades on the foundation is still practiced . For its manufacture, a cement-sand mortar was used, so the surface of the foundation has a granular surface. Of course, this method cannot be called acceptable for residents of apartment buildings, but it is a pretty good option.

Conclusion

Every home must have a knife sharpening device. You can make a simple model of a knife sharpening device with your own hands.

It may be the simplest model, but if it is made with your own hands, your blades will never become dull.

Source: https://instrument.guru/nozhi/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-svoimi-rukami-chertezhi.html

DIY knife sharpening device - instructions!

Almost every person in life is faced with the question of sharpening knives. After all, any knife, regardless of its quality, sooner or later becomes dull. Therefore, the blade must be carefully maintained.

In stores today you can choose any sharpener from a huge variety.

What types of sharpening stones are there?

In general, there are several main types of such devices. Namely:

Oil-based, on the surface of which there is oil, specifically to save material.

Water, similar to the previous one, but water is used here.

Natural, industrially processed.

Artificial, made from non-natural materials.

Rubber, extremely rare. Completely inconvenient to use.

Nuances in the matter of sharpening

Every knife sharpening has its moments.

For example, Japanese self-sharpening requires special attention from a fairly experienced specialist, since the Japanese type of steel is quite fragile. To sharpen them, manufacturers recommend using different water stones with different grain sizes.

Housewives use store-bought sharpeners for sharpening. When using several knives, their sharpness remains longer.

But this is very important, even though it takes a lot of time and effort.

How to sharpen knives correctly?

For this it is necessary to create special conditions. Thanks to them, the knife will remain sharp for a very long time.

Therefore, it is important to choose the right angle at which you will sharpen your knives. According to the basic rule in this matter, the smaller the angle at which the knife is sharpened, the stronger the cutting edge will be.

It is important not to forget that the next sharpening depends on the maximum sharpness. The sharper the knife, the faster you will have to sharpen it. At the same time, making it “workable” again will be much more difficult.

Why do they sharpen knives?

Source: http://neruds.ru/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-nozhej-svoimi-rukami.html

Devices for sharpening knives: types and drawings, DIY production

Every housewife sooner or later begins to get dull knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or cuts meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. It can fall off the product being cut at any time and cause injury. Therefore, the tool should be periodically sharpened using a special device for sharpening knives.

A wide range of such sharpening devices are offered in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of sharpening stones, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - necessary conditions

For efficient and long-term operation of a knife, the most important factor when sharpening it is the angle between the edges of the blade . During the sharpening process, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

Each blade has its own optimal angle:

• for a razor and scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10–15 degrees;
• knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15–20 degrees;
• multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
• hunting and camping knives - at an angle of 25–30 degrees;
• knives for cutting hard materials - 30–40 degrees.

Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the desired angle. Holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to ensure the required angle of inclination of the cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the manufacturing itself does not take much time.

DIY knife sharpeners

There are many types of knife sharpenings, from which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

• a block of abrasive material;
• stop for attaching the knife.

You can use ready-made special stones as a bar or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

There are several types of stones on sale:

1. Water tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.

2. Oil stone resembles water stone in structure and shape, but its surface is the most oily.

3. Natural instruments are made from natural stones that undergo industrial processing.

4. Artificial stones are made from non-natural components.

5. Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but they are not very convenient to work with.

To make your own abrasive bar, you can use small rectangular glass plates with a thickness of 4–5 millimeters. Using double-sided tape, you need to stick sandpaper of different grain sizes onto the surface of the plates. The cost of such bars will be quite small, and the sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass block, you must tighten the nuts very carefully , otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used when using it, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, you should avoid rapid movements, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to the loss of the properties of the blade.

Device for sharpening from wooden blocks

It is enough to simply make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

1. Wooden blocks must be sanded using sandpaper, removing all burrs from them.
2. Make preliminary markings on the bars depending on the required angle.
3. Place a sharpening stone on the marked line and mark its width on both sides of the wooden block.
4. Make cuts according to the markings on the wooden blanks, the depth of which should be about 1.5 centimeters.
5. The abrasive bars must be inserted into the resulting recesses so that all the grooves coincide.
6. Secure the sharpening stones with bolts.

to attach a piece of rubber to its lower surface .

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting corners

The basis for this device is a Lansky sharpener, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

Required materials and tools:

• metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
• standard aluminum corners;
• metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
• set of nuts and bolts;
• a sharpening machine with a vice or a file;
• needle file

Instead of a sharpening machine, you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding off sharp corners and cleaning the metal cutting areas.

Stages of making a sharpener:

1. According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
2. The holes are drilled and threaded.
3. Using a file, all sharp corners and edges are rounded. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
4. Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
5. The hole for the spoke support is expanded using a needle file.
6. The holes for the studs are threaded.
7. The rods are inserted into the outer holes and secured with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
8. An M8 bolt is screwed into the wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
9. Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
10. Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is threaded, which is fixed with the help of nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, you can adjust the sharpening angle.
11. A thin metal rod in the shape of the letter L, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut are used to assemble a device that will hold the sharpening stone. The outermost holder must have a through hole for the knitting needle.

This knife sharpening device has a fairly wide range of pressing angle degrees and is most convenient to use.

Massive sharpener with stand

With your own hands, you can imitate a knife sharpening device from Apex, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet. Such a knife is presented in the form of a stand, on which a platform is installed at an angle, and on the side there is a support for the end of the nozzle in the form of a rod. This is a very convenient device with which you can sharpen any cutting tools very efficiently.

Required materials and tools:

• a quarter sheet of chipboard;
• small wooden block;
• metal rod M8 or M6;
• magnet with slots for bolts;
• a piece of plexiglass 6x12 cm;
• 10 screws;
• 3 wing nuts;
• 2 bolts;
• 4 rubber feet;
• wooden or ceramic clamps;
• sandpaper;
• drill;
• saw.

Stages of work:

1. Three blanks are cut from a sheet of chipboard. Their dimensions should be: 30x8 cm; 7x8 cm; 37x12 cm.
2. On a workpiece measuring 30x8 cm, measure 6 centimeters from the edge on the long side and drill a hole.
3. From a block with a cross-section of 2x4 centimeters, a section 8 centimeters long is sawn off, in which two through holes are drilled perpendicular to each other. The first should be three centimeters from the edge, and the second three centimeters from the first.
4. A recess one centimeter thick is cut from the edge of the block to the hole.
5. A slot is drilled along the middle of the plexiglass.
6. Holes for legs are drilled in the corners of large chipboard workpieces.
7. A small piece of chipboard is placed perpendicularly four centimeters from the edge of the workpiece and secured with two self-tapping screws.
8. A medium-sized workpiece is placed on top and also secured with two self-tapping screws.
9. For the magnet, a shallow depression is drilled at the very edge of the highest point of a medium-sized part.
10. The magnet is inserted inside and fixed with self-tapping screws.
11. A piece of plexiglass is placed on the same board. A bolt is inserted through the slot and hole, which is screwed down with a nut at the bottom.
12. A hole is drilled on the free edge of a large blank for an iron rod.
13. The rod is fixed using two nuts: a wing nut and a regular one.
14. A block is screwed onto the rod, into the hole of which a bolt screwed from the outside with a nut is inserted.
15. A device for clamping a knife is assembled from a cut of a metal rod, two clamps and four nuts with washers.
16. The legs are screwed to the finished product.

The sharpening angle on such a device is adjusted using a bar and a wing , which fixes the part at the desired height.

Each of the described devices has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing the appropriate option, you need to proceed from your needs and skills in such work that you will need to do with your own hands.

Source: https://stanok.guru/metalloobrabotka/tokarnye-raboty/tochenie/prisposobleniya-dlya-zatochki-nozhey-svoimi-rukami-vidy-i-chertezhi.html

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening and sharpening, devices, machine and drawings, rules

1. Why do you need a sharpener?
2. How to sharpen a knife?
3. Sharpening profiles
4. Touchstone
5. Knife sharpening devices
6. L.M.
7. Knife sharpening machine
8. Not just knives

Interest in how to make a knife sharpener with your own hands arises for a reason.

The consumer qualities of hand-held cutting tools are enhanced through the use of modern materials and technologies for blade manufacturing and precise factory sharpening. At the same time, the price of the product increases, but it is becoming increasingly easier to ruin a fairly expensive item with primitive sharpening. Therefore, various household devices for sharpening knives are no longer needed only for convenience.

To understand why a knife sharpener is still needed and how to make it correctly, you will have to start with the ideology and evolution of the knife.

Why do you need a sharpener?

A living relic of our days is the Finnish hunting knife. Not a gangster Finnish knife, sometimes of a bizarre shape, but a Finnish-type hunting knife, on the left in the figure. Traditional hunting knives (center and left) are similar in shape, but the difference between them is very large.

Finnish knife and classic hunting knives

The blade of a Finnish knife is forged from cast iron, which can be smelted right in your yard from swamp ore in a furnace-furnace, without resorting to the blast furnace process, puddling, and other methods of converting cast iron into iron and steel.

The viscosity of crinkly iron is excellent; it is very difficult to break a blade made from it. But the hardness is also low, somewhere around HRS55, the knife becomes dull quite quickly.

Finnish hunters did not care about this: a blade of such hardness can be sharpened (sharpened) by beating on many natural stones, and there were always enough smoothed moraine boulders in Fennoscandia.

They sharpen a knife by beating it in much the same way as beating a scythe, only the whetstone is motionless and the blade is moved. First, they pull it along the whetstone with the butt away from you, then they turn it over and pull it with the butt towards you.

The position of the cutting edge (CR) on the whetstone is always dragging; quick movements: shirk-shirk! During each movement, you need to keep the contact patch of the blade with the touchstone (see below), but the requirements for maintaining the angle of inclination are not so strict.

Learning to sharpen a knife by beating is not very difficult, and with some skill you can create a smoothly running profile on the blade, see below. However, the Finnish knife is, in general, a dead end in the evolution of a cutting tool, surviving in special natural conditions.

A good knife has never been cheap, and in extreme situations, the durability of the blade, combined with the toughness of the blade, became vital factors. Therefore, even in ancient times, they learned to harden knife blades from the surface and cement them: the core remained viscous, not brittle, and a hard, red-hot crust formed on the outside, see next. rice.:

Structure of a knife blade with surface hardening and carburization

It is still possible to sharpen a knife with a cemented blade, but you need a skill that is not given to everyone. And the abrasive is already needed from a special type of stone - lithographic grunstein slate. There is little of it in nature; Grünstein is still considered a strategic raw material.

There is no artificial grenstein and it is not expected.

It’s as easy as shelling pears to ruin a cemented knife with inept beating - a little somewhere the cementation bark will be stripped down to raw metal (this is not visible to the eye), the knife will only have to be thrown away, the blade will immediately become dull and begin to crumble.

Note: if you have an antique scythe whetstone of a slightly greenish color lying around somewhere, do not throw it away, it is a valuable rarity.

Service knives do not require the same durability and toughness as hunting and hiking knives, and they should cost much less. As a result, special steels and powder metallurgy are widely used in the production of utility knives. The blade of an “eternal” kitchen knife is structured like a rodent’s incisor: in longitudinal layers, the hardness of which decreases from the core outward. In any case, you have to sharpen the knife less often, but chipping is definitely ruled out - the blade immediately becomes discolored.

How to sharpen a knife?

Source: http://lenpas.ru/stati/zatochka-nozhej-i-tochilka-svoimi-rukami-prisposobleniya-stanok-i-chertezhi-pravila.html

Sharpening knives: theory and rules, making your own sharpeners for various purposes

Interest in making knife sharpeners with your own hands arises for a reason. The consumer qualities of hand-held cutting tools are enhanced through the use of modern materials and technologies for blade manufacturing and precise factory sharpening.

At the same time, the price of the product increases, but it is becoming increasingly easier to ruin a fairly expensive item with primitive sharpening. Therefore, various household devices for sharpening knives are no longer needed only for convenience.

To understand why a knife sharpener is still needed and how to make it correctly, you will have to start with the ideology and evolution of the knife.

How to make a knife sharpening device with your own hands and how to use it correctly

The simplest variation of sharpening is a homemade device made from wooden and abrasive bars. To make it, you will need two bars of each type - they must be strictly the same dimensions. Wooden products must first be treated with sandpaper to remove all burrs from their surface.

The manufacturing procedure itself will not cause any difficulties. First, mark the wooden blocks: taking into account the required sharpening angle of the knives, draw lines for future fastenings of abrasive workpieces. Then apply sharpening stones to the resulting lines and mark their width on the wood. The next step is the cuts: according to the markings, make cuts on both wooden products of the required slope and depth of 1-1.5 cm. Insert abrasive bars into the recesses and secure them with bolts.

Advice. To prevent the resulting device from slipping on the surface while servicing the knives, attach a rubber gasket to it from below - it will give the device the necessary stability.

Massive sharpener on a stand

A more complex variation of the knife is a stand with a separate support and a sharpening rod attachment. To make it you will need:

• chipboard sheet;
• a block of wood 8 cm long and 2x4 cm in cross section;
• steel rod M6 or M8;
• plexiglass 6x12 cm;
• magnet with holes for fasteners;
• self-tapping screws, bolts, wing nuts;
• wooden clamps;
• rubber feet;
• saw and drill.

Sharpener construction diagram:

1. Cut three blanks from the chipboard sheet: 7x8 cm, 8x30 cm and 12x37 cm.
2. On the oblong side of the workpiece 8x30 cm, 6 cm from the edge, make a hole.
3. Drill holes for the legs in the corners of the 12x37 cm workpiece.
4. Drill two through perpendicular holes in the wooden block: the first - 3 cm from the edge, the second - 3 cm from the first. From the edge of the product to the first hole, cut a 1 cm thick recess.
5. Make a slot in the center of the plexiglass strip.
6. On a workpiece 12x37 cm, at a distance of 4 cm from the edge, secure the workpiece 7x8 cm perpendicularly with two self-tapping screws. Fix the workpiece 8x30 cm on top with self-tapping screws.
7. At the highest point of the installed workpiece 8x30 cm, drill a small recess and fix the magnet in it with self-tapping screws. Place plexiglass on the same blank - fasten the products with a bolt through the previously made hole and slot.
8. On any edge of the 12x37 cm workpiece, drill a hole for a steel sharpening rod and secure it there with a wing nut.
9. Place the block on the rod, securing it with a bolt and nut.
10. Using a rod, nuts and two clamps, assemble a knife holder.
11. Screw the legs to the finished stand.

How to sharpen a knife correctly?

To ensure high-quality maintenance of knives, it is not enough to build one of the above-mentioned devices - you also need to master the rules of manual sharpening and understand the order of work.

When sharpening a knife, maintain one angle

First, the required sharpening angle of the tool is calculated - it must be maintained throughout the entire sharpening process. Next, using smooth movements alternately “from yourself” and “towards you”, begin to move the blade along the sharpening element - an abrasive or a rod. In one movement, the knife should pass along the sharpener from edge to edge. In this case, movements are performed perpendicular to the edge of the blade.

Important! At the end of each pass, the blade should remain on the sharpener and not tear off, otherwise you can not only dull the knife even more, but also deform its side surface.

Move the blade along the sharpener with one side until a burr appears on the back side - then turn the knife over and begin sharpening the other side of the blade in the same way.

Continue sharpening alternating sides until the burrs are completely gone. Gradually reduce the pressure of the knife.

How to determine the sharpening angle?

The most important parameter for sharpening a knife is the required blade angle. It depends on the scope of application of a particular tool and the range of tasks assigned to it:

• Any type of razor – angle 10-15 degrees.
• Fillet knife – 15 degrees.
• Knife for fruits, bread and vegetables – 15-20 degrees.
• Multifunctional tools for slicing food – 20-25 degrees.
• Hunting knives - 25 degrees. Such blades are designed for cutting not only soft products, but also wood, bones, and fabrics.

For different types of knives - different sharpening angles

• General purpose utility knives – 25-30 degrees.
• Tourist and camping knives – 30-35 degrees.
• Knives for cutting hard materials – 30-50 degrees. The greater the sharpening angle, the worse such a knife cuts food, but the better it copes with wood, trunks, and plastic.

Please note that there are also combination knives: they are divided into several zones with different sharpening angles. The advantage of such tools is versatility, the disadvantage is the complexity of maintenance.

So, assembling a knife sharpening device yourself is an excellent way out of a situation where you don’t want to buy a professional device or regularly contact craftsmen to service the tools. Before you are two options for making sharpeners of different levels of complexity - choose which one you can handle, and use it strictly according to the indicated rules, so that the sharpening is not only of high quality, but also safe.

DIY knife sharpener: video

Source: https://kakhack.ru/dom/uborka/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-nozhej.html