How to sharpen a wood router

Sharpening wood cutters: manual work using sharpening wheels and a sharpening machine

All photos from the article

Manufacturers now produce many types and sizes of cutters designed for processing different materials, including wood. You can sharpen a dull device with your own hands on a universal or special machine, or also manually.

Cutters need to be sharpened from time to time.

Features of cutters

Different materials are used to produce cutters. Tool steels suitable for wood are: high-speed, alloy and carbon. For processing metal, plastic, ceramics, and stone-like materials, hard alloys, diamonds, CBN, and mineral ceramics are used.

Steel for wood cutters

1. The following grades of tool steels are used for cutting wood: U-9-A, U-8-A, U-7-A, KhV-5, 9-KhS, KhG, KhVG.
2. High speed steel can be of normal performance. These are brands R-18, R-6-M-5, R-9, R-12, etc.

   The high-performance metal is alloyed with vanadium, cobalt, molybdenum and tungsten. These are brands R-6-M-3, R-18-F-2-K-5, R-9-F-2-K-10, R-9-F-2-K-5, etc.

Please note! If a cutter has soldered teeth, this does not always mean that they are made of carbide.

It can also be high-speed steel.

Teeth geometry

Shape of teeth.

According to their design, the cutters of milling cutters are divided into sharpened (pointed) and backed.

1. For sharpened teeth, the section of the rear surface (width n) adjacent to the cutting part is a plane. Such incisors are sharpened along the back surface. However, if necessary, you can sharpen them along the front edge.
2. In backed cutters of shaped cutters, the back surface has the shape of an Archimedes spiral. Processing it is technically very difficult. Therefore, such teeth are sharpened exclusively along the front edge.

Each tooth is a separate incisor.

It has standard parameters: back (a) and front (y) angles, area of ​​the sharpened surface (n), slope angle (l).

1. Platform n is a section of the rear surface of the cutter that is ground during turning. This is where the teeth wear out the most; their size affects the friction force between the cutter and the workpiece. Because of this, this surface should be maintained within the normalized range.
2. The leading edge angle (y) is measured between the tangent to the leading edge and the radius of the cutter.
3. The main back angle (a) is measured between the tangent to the back edge at the normalized point of the main sawing edge and the tangent to the rotation circle of this point. When this angle decreases, it reduces friction between the workpiece and the cutter.
4. Not all cutters have an additional clearance angle (a1). It describes the expanded gap between the cut surface and the body of the cutter. The instructions indicate the need to sharpen this gap with a certain wear of the cutter and expansion of the area n. The purpose of the operation is to reduce friction between the tooth and the workpiece.

Cutter parameters.

1. Based on the direction and configuration of the cutting edge, helical or straight teeth are distinguished. Their slope describes the angle (l) between the axis of the tool and the deployed helical edge.

The size of the angle depends on the type of cutter, the grade of its material and the type of workpiece being processed. When cutting wood, the main rake sharpening angle is selected in the range of 10-20 degrees, sometimes more. The back angle also fluctuates within a wide range of values.

Methods for sharpening "wooden" end mills

Wood end shaping tools can be sharpened by hand using a fine diamond stone. The cost of performing this operation by a specialist is also low.

Manual work

This is what a diamond block looks like.

1. The block should be placed on the edge of the workbench. If the cutter has a deep recess, it must be fixed. The cutter should be driven along the already secured sandpaper.
2. During operation, the bar must be cooled with soap or clean water.
3. The front part of the cutter is gradually ground down, its edge becomes sharper, and the diameter decreases slightly.

Please note: When the jig has a removable guide bearing, it must be removed before sharpening.

In an attempt to save time, you can ruin it and the entire cutter.

Sharpening process.

1. The bars must be used in different grain sizes, based on the thickness of the metal layer to be ground and the required surface cleanliness.
2. Before starting work, make sure that you have used the correct shaped sandpaper.
3. As you sharpen each tooth, try to maintain the symmetry of the cutting edge. To do this, do the same number of movements and with one pressure.

Before you sharpen a wood cutter, you should take into account that this can also be done using mechanical sandpaper. It should have a low rotation speed and a circle of appropriate grain size and shape.

Grinding wheels

Grinding disc made of white electrocorundum.

Based on the material of the cutter, its sharpening can be carried out with circles made from:

• regular or white electrocorundum;
• elbor (CBN);
• green silicon carbide;
• steel with diamond chips (PCD).

Electrocorundum products efficiently sharpen wood cutters made from tool or high-speed steel of normal performance. CBN discs are used for high-speed metal cutters with increased productivity.

When using abrasive discs, it is recommended to use coolant cooling technology. When sharpening, the thermal resistance of the cutter and grinding wheel should be taken into account. If you select a disk with the wrong value for this parameter, you risk burning the tool or sandpaper. Below is a table of such values.

Material	Heat resistance limit in degrees
Industrial diamond	700-900
Electrocorundum	1300
Silicon carbide	1200-1300
Boron carbide	500-600
Mineral ceramics	1200
Elbor	1300-1500
Tool carbon steel U-12	200
High-speed steel R-18	600
Hard alloy VK-8	900

With an increase in sharpening temperature to +1000 degrees, the hardness of abrasive wheels at the micro level drops by 2-2.5 times. Up to +1300 degrees – 4-6 times.

The use of water as a coolant leads to the occurrence of corrosion on the elements of the grinding machine. To prevent this from happening, soap and electrolytes (sodium carbonate, soda, trisodium phosphate, nitrite and sodium silicate) are dissolved in the liquid. They create protective films.

For basic grinding, use a soda and soap solution. When finishing - low concentration emulsion.

Cooler for grinding machine.

Please note! In order to increase sharpening productivity and reduce specific wear, it is necessary to select the highest abrasive disc grain size allowed for this type of cutter.

It will provide the required level of cleanliness of the tool surface.

The speed (circumferential) of the disk when sharpening cutters made of tool steel should be 10-14 m/s. If we translate into more familiar values, then when using emery with a diameter of 125 millimeters, the rotational speed of the drive should be approximately 1300-2200 rpm.

The configuration of the disk for turning the angle of the rear incisors on a cylindrical plane should be cup-shaped (marked CHK or ChTs) or disc-shaped (marked 1-T, 2-T, 3-T), and the configuration of the front corner should be flat or disc-shaped.

Using a Sharpening Machine

The photo shows the device of the E-90 sharpening machine.

Taking into account the most complex design - spiral teeth, special sharpening equipment must provide both translational and rotational movement to the cutter being processed. This is the sharpening machine for wood cutters E-90 “Darex”. This will serve as our example to describe the process.

The essence of the operation of sharpening end cutters is that during their longitudinal movement relative to the disk, the cutter is simultaneously rotated around its axis. As a result, the surface being treated is constantly in contact with the wheel at the same height.

This ensures the same turning angle. Rotational and translational movements are synchronized using a special element - a needle copier. It rests on the sinus on the front side of the tooth.

By pressing the tooth against the needle and smoothly moving the cutter along the axis, the master sharpens the cutter along its entire length in one movement.

In a schematic form, the processing of lateral teeth, including helical teeth, is carried out as follows.

The process of sharpening the cutter.

1. The cutter is mounted in a collet.
2. The needle copier is positioned so that it is located in the highest position. The tip should rest against the outer edge of the cutter groove.
3. The cutter is then placed in its original (extended) position. In this case, the copier needle is placed next to the shank and touches the groove of the tooth.
4. Using the lateral movement handle, the sharpening disk is moved to a position in which its outer edge is aligned with the copier.
5. Next, you should turn on the machine motor and, using the direct feed handle, slowly move the disk towards the cutter until it begins to spark.
6. Next, on the feed scale, you should set the thickness of the metal being ground. As a rule, this is 25-50 microns.
7. You need to sharpen the cutter along its entire length by retracting the spindle with the cutter installed until it comes off the copier.
8. During work, it is necessary to ensure that the cutter is in contact with the copier needle at all times. This will ensure the rotation of the cutter necessary to ensure that the face being processed is in contact with the disk at the same relative position.
9. To ensure clean turning, the passage of the cutter should be repeated without changing the thickness of the steel being removed on the scale.
10. After this, turning of one tooth can be considered complete. You can move on to the next one.

To ensure that the sharpening of all cutters is symmetrical, do not change the thickness of the steel being ground, set using the direct feed handle, during the work. (See also the article Wood sander: features.)

By changing the position of the copier needle so that its end touches various points of the tooth groove (for example, the center, edge), you can change the values ​​of the rear angles a and a1.

Now about sharpening the end cutters.

Sharpening the end edges of the cutter: a – single-cutting edges, b – double-cutting edges.

1. For this purpose, the shaped cutter should be placed in a position in which the tooth being sharpened will be in an exactly horizontal position.
2. The sharpening system of the E-90 machine has a graduated ring. It makes it possible to very simply position the end cutters strictly horizontally.

If the machine does not have a graduated ring, you have to use improvised means.

1. When using a sharpening machine that does not come with such a device, you can use a square to set the teeth.
2. When the cutter has reached the desired position, work can begin. It is carried out by shifting the edge of the sharpening disk along the edge of the tooth.
3. The turning angle value can be changed by moving the wheel vertically or tilting the spindle with the cutter.

Conclusion

Sharpening wood milling cutters is a rather complicated operation. You should be extremely careful about the process. After all, the further efficiency of working with wooden blanks depends on this. This article will continue to introduce you to the nuances of sharpening.

Source: https://rubankom.com/obrabotka/425-zatochka-frez-po-derevu

Instructions for sharpening cutters for wood and metal

In the modern variety of services presented on the building materials market, it is easy to find help in sharpening cutters.

Wood cutter

But don’t rush, you can do this work yourself. This is typical not only for work on sharpening cutters, but also for other types of work.

The standard cutter sharpening machine has two chucks of different configurations. One of them is for three feather cutters, and the second is for two and four feather cutters. It is difficult to make a mistake in this case, since if the number of cutter feathers is incorrectly set, it will not be possible to insert the cutter into the chuck.

Metal cutter

Having decided on the choice of chuck, you can proceed to the immediate stages of sharpening the cutters:

• sharpening on a ribbon;
• end sharpening.

Sharpening on a ribbon

You must use one of the corresponding cup sockets. From the standard set of collets, select a collet of the appropriate size (8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm).

Mill sharpening machine

We insert the collet into the chuck and secure it with a clamping nut. This procedure is done without any effort; the clamping nut rotates freely and does not need to be tightened.

1. In the socket of the glass we set the length of the ribbon to be sharpened. As a rule, this distance is adjusted by unscrewing the screws located in the cup socket. By moving the bottom of the socket up or down, we select the length, and then fix the screws back.
2. We install the cutter into the chuck through the upper hole, while pre-setting the diameter of the cutter and the sharpening angle on the adjusting screw. We fix the prepared chuck in the glass, while correctly setting the lines of the cutter in relation to the element being sharpened. That is, the cutter should cling to the pin with its grooves.
3. Then we turn on the machine and, using the feed regulator, bring the cutter to the grinding wheel until the sound of contact begins and sharpen the cutter strip on all sides. The metal removal from the cutter being sharpened can be reduced or increased using the regulators installed on the machine. This adjustment is necessary when changing the diameter of the cutter and correcting existing irregularities in the cutter being processed.

End sharpening

Sharpening the end cutter

To sharpen the cutter along the end, you must use the second chuck socket located on the machine.

Sharpening the cutter

In this case, you need to perform the previously described steps to set the diameter and length.

1. Depending on the hardness of the metal being processed, the settings on the socket are set. The harder the metal, the more the socket ring rotates towards the “+” sign.
2. Next, turn on the machine, insert the prepared chuck with the cutter into the socket and process the part until the characteristic noise stops. Each groove of the cutter is machined.
3. In the additional slot of the machine, the cutter is sharpened from the end, for which the above steps are performed.
4. The last operation is processing the rear wall of the cutter, which is performed by inserting a chuck with a cutter into the corresponding slot of the machine.
5. Thus, the cutter was sharpened in compliance with all the required geometric features separately and in relation to each other. The sharpening is uniform on all sides.

Do-it-yourself sharpening of cutters

You can perform this procedure yourself and use available tools.

This feature will save money and, if used repeatedly, save valuable time.

1. First, we clean the cutter from carbon deposits, for which we use a special liquid, similar to those used to clean car engines. You need to fill the cutter and wait about three minutes, then clean the cutter on all sides with a brush.
2. Next, we take a diamond stone and begin to sharpen the cutter along the leading edge (movement of the cutter channel along the diamond stone).
3. The block is moistened with ordinary water. After sharpening, you need to wipe the cutter with a cloth.

The quality of manual sharpening differs significantly from sharpening using a special machine, but the manual version saves time.

This sharpening option is recommended for use in cases where the cutter has not yet become very dull or as a preventative sharpening aimed at improving the quality of the processed products.

Source: http://metall.trubygid.ru/obrabotka/zatochke-frez

Equipment and methods for sharpening cutters

Even a small production cannot do without using milling cutters for a variety of purposes. The range of manufactured products currently includes thousands of items, varying in shape, size, and scope of application.

With active use, wear and loss of the necessary cutting ability occurs; the use of a dull cutter affects the quality of the cuts and accelerates its destruction many times over, which is unacceptable.

Sharpening cutters will increase the service life and reduce financial costs, but only in case of high-quality work performed on special equipment by an experienced sharpener.

Features of sharpening various types of cutters

For metalworking, cutters made of tool or high-speed steel are used. The teeth can be made of carbide materials and secured by soldering.

Processing such materials is complex, so sharpening of cutters for metal, especially those with complex cutter shapes, is carried out using specialized equipment.

To operate effectively, the machine must rotate and translate the item being sharpened relative to the abrasive wheel and allow the angle of their contact to be changed.

Sharpening of wood cutters (relevant for end cutters) can be done manually with a block or on a regular sharpener at low speeds. The main task is to ensure uniform surface treatment and maintain the original angle. It may not work out at first, but with experience you can achieve good results.

Sharpening spiral cutters is one of the most complex operations and is performed with a cup grinding wheel on a sharpening machine. It is carried out along the back surface of the teeth; a stop is used to ensure a stable angle, otherwise the geometry of the cuts will change and there will be strong runout. The circle is set at a slight angle, the depth of the layer for removal is about 20-40 microns, for cleanliness the pass is carried out 2 times.

Sharpening end mills for metal is carried out in a similar way, but an operation with end teeth is added, each of which is set strictly horizontally, the circle moves along at a given angle, while it is important to maintain uniformity of operations for all cutters. Sharpening of hob cutters for metal is carried out depending on the shape of the teeth: for those sharpened along the back, for backed ones at the front.

The service life of cutting tools and the quality of processed surfaces directly depend on the timeliness of sharpening.

When working with a dull tool, there is not only an increase in the time required to perform operations, but also a violation of the temperature regime, which in turn leads to deformation of the material being processed and the cutter itself.

The process is growing and there may come a time when restoration becomes impossible, and the purchase of new ones will lead to financial costs and possible downtime. The costs of additional sharpening equipment with the active use of a large number of cutters will quickly pay off.

Sharpening technology

There are a number of parameters that affect the sharpening angles of cutters, primarily the shape of the tooth: sharpened or backed. Characteristics of each cutter:

• front angle, formed by the tangent to the front surface and the plane of the axis;
• rear angle, formed by a tangent to the rear surface and a tangent to the circle of rotation of the reference point;
• the size of the area that is processed when sharpening along the back surface;
• the angle of inclination of the teeth relative to the central axis.

The sharpening angles of cutters for metal depend on the material and brand of the product; they are indicated in special reference books and GOSTs. When processing workpieces made of high-alloy steel, they are practically zero or negative. Failure to comply with the recommended parameters will lead to rapid destruction of the cutting edge without the possibility of restoration.

During the sharpening process, the area of ​​the teeth decreases, so it is extremely important to perform all operations in the same way for everyone. Distortions will lead to a change in the shape of the cut and strong beating, which is critical when working with viscous materials - you can simply break the cutter. After sharpening, a check is necessary: ​​visual inspection for cracks, chips and deformations using a magnifying glass; for angles, a deviation of 1 degree is acceptable, determined by a pendulum inclinometer.

You can restore the cutting properties of almost any tool. Sharpening of carbide cutters is carried out only on machines. For example, for the end, the first stage will be circular grinding to remove possible chips and defects of the cutting edges; after this operation, the diameter will change depending on the degree of wear of the surfaces. Then, for the pointed side teeth, sharpening is done along the back.

For this, a special needle-shaped device is used, which ensures a uniform sharpening angle throughout the entire length of the tooth during translational movement along the abrasive. By adjusting its position, you can change the clearance angle, and this is important for reducing friction and increasing service life. Sharpening of the end teeth begins with their installation horizontally, the wheel is fed at the required angle.

Using the machine, it is easy to update tools for a manual router.

The efficiency and quality of processing will be much higher when the machine is equipped with a liquid cooling system - when overheated, the cutting edges become covered with microcracks, which cause chips during operation, which greatly reduces the service life.

Also, with increasing temperature, the hardness of abrasive materials decreases, which increases the processing time of workpieces and provokes rapid wear of expensive wheels. For sharpening, abrasive wheels of cup and disc shapes are used to grind the back corners of the teeth; for the front corners, flat ones can be used.

The abrasives used are:

• electrocorundum (well suited for tool steel);
• CBN (standard and high-performance high-speed steel);
• diamond and green silicon carbide (for carbide cutters).

When processing hard alloys on a wheel, the surface is heated unevenly, microcracks form, leading to deformation of the teeth. For finishing, you can use cast iron whetstone, use boron carbide as an abrasive, and it can also be used to quickly eliminate irregularities without removing the cutter.

Industrial machines are expensive, but for a home workshop you can make one yourself by combining an electric sharpener and a feed mechanism for the cutter being sharpened. It is impossible to make a universal device in this way, but it is quite suitable for performing several operations with acceptable quality.

Using sharpening wheels

With experience, you can sharpen cutters of simple shapes on a conventional sharpener, but you should understand that a large number of curved surfaces and the need to comply with angular parameters can negate all efforts. It is necessary to work at low speeds, otherwise there is a risk of overheating the cutting edges - the ejection cutter.

Using improvised means

All that is required is the presence of abrasive materials of different grain sizes. During work, the bars must be moistened with soapy water, rinsed and dried when finished.

Sharpening cutters for wood with your own hands is possible, but it requires a lot of practice - the main difficulty lies in uniform processing of all the teeth, for this it is necessary to control the pressure and the number of movements.

All costs are covered by the word “free”, and the cost of the sharpened items is low if the attempt is unsuccessful. The quality of such work is usually not very high, but within the framework of a home workshop it is acceptable.

Safety rules when sharpening

Working with any power equipment requires compliance with safety precautions:

• work only on working equipment;
• ensuring reliable grounding to avoid electric shock;
• ensuring fire safety measures;
• use of personal protective equipment.

Compliance with the rules guarantees the absence of injuries and emergency situations.

Source: https://stankiexpert.ru/tehnologii/zatochka-frez.html

Sharpening wood cutters

A cutter can work productively only if it is used correctly. If the work is carried out under correctly assigned milling conditions, the cutter can process a large number of workpieces before it becomes noticeably dull. However, if you continue to work with a noticeably dull cutter, the cutting force will increase sharply, which will cause an increase in friction, rapid further dulling and even breakage of the cutter teeth.

Sharpening a normally dull cutter requires relatively little time and slightly reduces the size of the tooth. Sharpening a very dull cutter is a long, labor-intensive operation; you have to remove a fairly large layer of metal, so the cutter does not need to be made too dull.

It is especially necessary to monitor the condition of the cutting edges and timely sharpening of expensive cutters made of high-speed steel and equipped with carbide plates.

Sharpening cylindrical point cutters

Cylindrical cutters with pointed teeth are sharpened along the back surface of the tooth using a cup circle (Fig. 332), while maintaining the specified clearance angle &3945;.

When sharpening, the cutter is put on a mandrel installed in the centers of the sharpening machine. The axis of the cup circle is set at an angle of 1 - 2° to the axis of the cutter, so that the circle touches the cutter being sharpened on only one side (Fig. 332, c).

If the axes of the cup wheel and the cutter being sharpened are located in the same horizontal plane (Fig. 332, a), then the rear angle α at the cutter tooth will not work. To form a back angle, the cup circle is positioned below the axis of the cutter being sharpened by the amount H (Fig.

332, b), which is determined from a right triangle with side and angle α:

Angle α should be selected according to the table.
35. The position of the cutter tooth during sharpening is fixed with a special stop (Fig.

Instructions for sharpening cutters for wood and metal

332) in the form of a regular spring steel strip. The stop that supports the tooth being sharpened must be installed very close to the cutting edge. It also serves as a guide when sharpening cutters with helical teeth.

When sharpening the back surface of cylindrical cutters with disc wheels, a concave chamfer is obtained on the tooth, which weakens the tooth blade and accelerates their wear.

When sharpened, cup wheels produce a flat chamfer (ribbon), which ensures greater durability of the cutters; For this reason, sharpening cutters with disc wheels is not recommended.

Sharpening end mills

Sharpening of the main cutting edge of the tooth of end mills is carried out along the rear surface, similar to sharpening of cylindrical cutters with pointed teeth (Fig. 333, a).

When sharpening the auxiliary cutting edge of a tooth (Fig. 333, b), the cutter is first installed so that its auxiliary cutting edge occupies a horizontal position.

Then the cutter axis is rotated in the horizontal plane by the amount of the auxiliary plan angle φ1 and at the same time tilted in the vertical plane by the end clearance angle α1. Sharpening of the front surface on the auxiliary cutting edge is carried out by the side surface of the disc wheel.

The cutter is installed so that the auxiliary cutting edge is facing upward, and the axis of the cutter is tilted in the vertical plane by the amount of the rake angle of the auxiliary cutting edge.

Sharpening end mills

Sharpening of the back surface on the main cutting edge of end mills (Fig. 334) is carried out similarly to cylindrical cutters with the end surface of a cup wheel when installing the end mill in the centers.

Sharpening of the flank surface on the secondary cutting edge is carried out similarly to end mills with a cup wheel. The cutter is secured with a conical shank in the chuck socket.

Sharpening disc cutters

Sharpening of the back surface on the cylindrical edge of disc cutters is carried out similarly to cylindrical cutters using a cup wheel.
Sharpening the back surface of the end teeth is carried out similarly to sharpening the teeth of the auxiliary cutting edge of end mills.

The front surface of the end teeth is sharpened in the same way as end mills.

The sharpened teeth are directed upward, and the axis of the cutter occupies the position:
a) vertical - when the cutter has simple teeth,
b) inclined - when the cutter has multidirectional teeth, and the angle of inclination of the cutter axis in the vertical plane is equal to the angle ω of inclination of the cylindrical cutting edge.

Sharpening cutters with backed teeth

The teeth of backed cutters are sharpened along the front surface. In Fig. 335, and a diagram of the installation for sharpening a tooth with a rake angle γ equal to zero (radial front surface) is given, and in Fig. 335, b - with a rake angle γ greater than zero. The amount of H 1 shift of the grinding wheel from the center of the cutter is determined by the formula:

The amount of layer removed during sharpening should be the same for all teeth to avoid runout of the cutter. If a smaller layer is removed from one tooth than the others, it will turn out to be longer, will remove chips of a larger cross-section and will become dull sooner. The cutters are sharpened along the front surface using a disc wheel.

When sharpening, you must ensure that the front surface is radial, as shown in Fig. 336, a (tooth 3 ). If the rake surface has an undercut (tooth 1 ) or, conversely, a negative rake angle (tooth 2 ), the tooth profile will be distorted and cut an irregular contour into the workpiece.

The position of the cutter tooth during sharpening is fixed by a stop, which should be adjacent to the back surface of the tooth being sharpened.

So that after sharpening the cutting edges have minimal runout, it is recommended to sharpen using a copier that has the same number of teeth as the cutter being sharpened (Fig. 336, b).

Sharpening of prefabricated cutters (milling heads)

The knife of a prefabricated cutter has a larger number of sharpening elements. In addition to the rear corners, it is necessary to sharpen: the main corners of the corner edge in the plan φ and the transition edge φ0, the auxiliary corner in the plan φ1 and the section of the transition edge f 0. To ensure the sharpening of each corner in the plan, the cutter takes a position corresponding to this angle (Fig. 337). Sharpening can be done on special sharpening or universal sharpening machines.

When sharpening on special machines, cutter 1 is inserted using its shank or a mounted mandrel into head 2 in a horizontal position (Fig. 338).

Head 2 can be rotated about a vertical axis. The cutter can be rotated around its axis using handwheel 3 and is fixed in the desired position using a stop. After sharpening one tooth, the transition is made to the next by rotating the cutter around its axis.

In Fig. 339 shows the positions when sharpening a cutter on a special sharpening machine. First, the ends of the plates or knives are compared (I), then the plates are aligned along the cylindrical edges (II).

To form back angles, the head with the grinding wheel is tilted and fixed in this position (III); to obtain plan angles, the head with the cutter is rotated about a vertical axis (IV, V, VI).

The labor intensity of such sharpening is high and ranges from 3 to 12 hours, depending on the degree of dullness (amount of removal), the number of teeth and the diameter of the cutter.

It should be noted that the wear of the grinding wheel during sharpening is not compensated by the machine mechanism. Therefore, from sharpening one element of the first tooth to sharpening the same element of the last tooth, a certain wear of the grinding wheel accumulates. To eliminate runout of tooth elements that occurs during wear of the grinding wheel, it is necessary to introduce an additional finishing pass, which increases the complexity of the operation.

On a universal sharpening machine, the cutter is sharpened in the centers (see Fig. 337).
Due to the fact that the mounting holes, i.e., the mounting bases of the cutter, are not used during this installation, the error in the coaxial sharpening of the cutter cutters increases. Since prefabricated cutters are the main tool for high-speed cutting methods, the labor intensity of sharpening cutters could be a serious obstacle to the introduction of high-speed milling.

Therefore, in the process of mastering high-speed milling, the sharpening process was restructured in order to reduce its labor intensity.
For this purpose, a method was developed, tested and implemented for sharpening prefabricated cutters with dismantled cutters and plates and their subsequent installation using a template. Before sharpening, insert knives are removed from the body and usually sharpened as a set. In Fig.

340 shows a special rotary device for this purpose, which sharply reduces the labor intensity of sharpening.

The device is installed in the centers of a universal sharpening machine. After sharpening one element, the device with a fixed set of teeth is turned to a given angle and begins sharpening the other element.

After sharpening is completed, the cutters are installed in the head body, using various kinds of templates (Fig. 341, a - e). The assembled milling head should be checked for runout using an indicator template (Fig. 341, e).

Finishing of carbide cutters

When sharpening with a grinding wheel, the carbide plate is heated unevenly, as a result of which tiny cracks may appear on its surface.
Cracks increase during the cutting process and can cause tooth chipping during operation. One of the purposes of finishing is to remove the defective layer with cracks.

The second task of finishing is to increase the cleanliness of the surface of the cutting edge, which is necessary to reduce friction and tooth wear, as well as (increase the cleanliness of the machined surface. The third task of finishing is to eliminate blockages on the surface of the cutter teeth and give them a more correct geometry.

The finishing of cutting surfaces is carried out on special finishing machines with cast iron discs or manually with gentle pressure from a cast iron whetstone. The best finishing results are obtained at a speed of the finishing disk in the range of 1.0-1.5 m/sec . For finishing, boron carbide paste with a grain size of 170 - 230 is used.

When finishing manually, it is necessary to maintain the correct position of the whetstone in relation to the cutting edge and the correct movement of the whetstone. First, the front and rear surfaces are finished, then finishing (edging) chamfers are formed: for this, the plane of the whetstone is placed at an angle of 45° to the front surface, and several passes are made along the cutting edge with the whetstone with gentle pressure.

It takes 2-3 seconds to form the edge chamfer.
for each knife. Boron carbide is a strong abrasive. Using a cast iron whetstone with boron carbide paste, you can remove wear holes on the teeth without removing the cutter from the machine, which is very important for high-speed milling of small workpieces with short cutting periods.

Source: https://stroyvolga.ru/%D0%B7%D0%B0%D1%82%D0%BE%D1%87%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D1%84%D1%80%D0% B5%D0%B7-%D0%BF%D0%BE-%D0%B4%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%B2%D1%83/

How to sharpen a wood router

Cutting tools sooner or later become dull. If it is disposable, then there is only one way out - to the landfill.

But the cutting edge of expensive devices can most often be restored.

in this article we will tell you how to give them a “second youth”.

Different cutting tools require a differentiated approach when sharpening. Today we will talk about restoring chisels, planes, wood cutters and metal drills.

Sharpening chisels and planes

Getting a chisel or plane knife into working condition is not that difficult. The procedure for sharpening them consists of only two stages.

When working on sharpening a tool, you will need a regular sharpening machine. A chisel or plane knife for soft wood is sharpened at an angle of 250°. For hard rocks – 350°.

When sharpening, you must constantly maintain a given angle, which is not so easy.

The task can be simplified by special devices for sharpening chisels, allowing you to work in the range from 25 to 35°. To avoid overheating, periodically cool the instrument in water.

You should not immediately grind off the edge of the iron until the cutting part appears.

When bringing its thickness to half a millimeter with a square, check that the axis is perpendicular to the cutting edge.

Final sharpening is best done by hand or on a low-speed water-cooled sharpener, bringing the tool to the required cutting edge sharpness.

When sharpening a round chisel with an outer edge, the tool moves along the block from edge to edge along the entire length of the stone, describing a “figure eight”.

The burr on the inside of the groove, which is necessarily formed during sharpening, is removed using a shaped sharpening stone.

The final sharpening of the cutting edge is done with sandpaper of varying degrees of grain.

Link on topic: Sharpening and finishing of tools with sandpaper (sandpaper)

Sharpening wood cutters

To sharpen shaped end mills, it is not necessary to have special tools.

It is enough to have a diamond block placed on the edge of a table or workbench.

The cutter is sharpened by running its front surface along the block, previously cleaned of resin residues, dirt and dust using a solvent.

If there is a guide bearing, it must be removed before sharpening. An attempt to save a couple of minutes will result, if not in its deformation, but quite possibly in a damaged cutter.

During the sharpening process, the block is slightly moistened with water, and after finishing the work it is wiped dry. As the front surface grinds down, the edge of the cutter will become sharper and its diameter will decrease slightly.

When sharpening a tool, you should use whetstones of different grain sizes, depending on the desired end result and the cleanliness of the surface being processed.

When sharpening incisors, to maintain symmetry, multiple movements are made with equal pressure.

If you have a sharpening machine with a low rotation speed, then installing an appropriate abrasive wheel can reduce manual labor to nothing.

Sharpening a drill for metal

Over time, drills become dull and many people simply throw them away and buy new ones.

However, you can almost always give a drill a “second chance” and extend its service life.

To do this, it is enough to process the dull surface on a grinding wheel.

Before starting work, stock up on a container of water into which the drill will be dipped from time to time to avoid overheating.

Sharpening is carried out sequentially and begins with processing the back surface, gently but firmly pressed against the surface of the grinding wheel until the correct cone is formed.

After this, its cutting part is sharpened and the final finishing of the rear surface is carried out. During sharpening, you must constantly monitor the jumper on the tip of the drill.

For drills with a diameter of 8 mm or less, it should not exceed a size of 0.4 mm. For large samples, the size of the jumper varies from 1-1.5 mm.

Keep in mind that it is not the tip that does the drilling, but the side blades of the drill!

Electric sharpener

Structurally, electric sharpeners are extremely simple.

They consist of an asynchronous motor, grinding wheels and housings.

Shifting the conversation to the plane of choosing a specific manufacturer and model, it should be noted that if you are planning to buy a device for personal purposes, then the brand is not decisive.

Such equipment is connected to the network for a short time and has a fairly large resource. The price of a sharpener directly depends on its diameter.

The larger it is, the more expensive the device. When inspecting the electric sharpener before purchasing, try moving the shaft.

If it not only rotates, but also “walks,” discard it and choose further.

Of course, it is best to plug the sharpener into the network, but not every store will accommodate you in this matter.

Electric sharpeners or sharpening machines are divided into three groups:

1. High-speed sharpeners equipped with replaceable holders for various types of tools.
2. Highly specialized machines designed for a specific tool (for example, drills).
3. Low speed water cooled machines.

If high-speed sharpeners spin up to 3000 rpm, then such machines rotate at a maximum of 150 rpm and can sharpen any cutting tool.

Low speed and water cooling are ideal conditions for a quality cutting edge.

Source: https://steelfactoryrus.com/kak-zatochit-frezu-po-derevu/

Do-it-yourself sharpening: sharpening a tool

Cutting tools sooner or later become dull. If it is disposable, then there is only one way out - to the landfill. But the cutting edge of expensive devices can most often be restored. in this article we will tell you how to give them a “second youth”.

Different cutting tools require a differentiated approach when sharpening. Today we will talk about restoring chisels, planes, wood cutters and metal drills.

How to sharpen a wood cutter with your own hands

Devices for sharpening the end cutting elements of a milling-canter machine are divided according to the nature of the work and are divided into two types - universal and special.

Let's look at each of these options below.

1 Machines for sharpening cutters for metal - review of factory models

Sharpening cutters for working on metal and wood is done with your own hands using universal worm gear devices.

In addition, the cutting elements of the milling-canter machine can be sharpened using special devices.

Both a homemade and a universal machine for sharpening end mills for wood are equipped with devices that ensure fastening, installation and sharpening of the part.

Milling cutter sharpening machine

When choosing the presented tool for sharpening the knives of a milling-canter machine with your own hands, you need to take into account the following parameters:

• versatility of the machine;
• dimensions;
• speed;
• machining accuracy class;
• electric motor power;
• installation method;
• possibility of connecting to the electrical network.

The most suitable device for sharpening the end knives of milling and chipping equipment is Kaindl KSS.

This small unit is capable of professional sharpening of end knives quickly and efficiently.

This device costs several times less than professional equipment and is easy to use.

Kaindl KSS is used for adjusting the cutting edge of diamond circular saws and cutters, and is also ideal for home use. Presented equipment for sharpening drills, end knives, diamond circular saws.

Kaindl KSS cutter sharpening machine

Effective sharpening of cutters on hob milling units is achieved by accurately fixing the tool in any position.

For this purpose, prisms and stop pins are used. The sanding disc itself can be adjusted to work in any position using a special articulated holder.

The main feature of this machine is the use of a conventional drill instead of an electric motor. The universal hinge mounting system allows you to connect any type of drill to the device.

Sharpening of knives of worm-milling units can be done using a device from the Ruko brand, which is equipped with a laser regulator.

This equipment can work with cutting edges with a diameter from 12 to 100 mm. The presented device is quickly and easily installed with your own hands; this is facilitated by a special step holder.

Ruko cutter sharpening machine

Before installing the cutting edges of hob hobs, a laser pointer can be used for precise positioning.

The sharpening angle changes smoothly (stepless). The process itself takes place using diamond discs with a diameter of 125 mm, and for more correct processing, you can attach a magnifying glass equipped with neon lighting.

2 Making a sharpening machine with your own hands

To manufacture a device for sharpening a milling-canter blade, you will need an electric motor with a power of no more than 1 kW, two pulleys and bearings with a shaft.

You need to start assembling a homemade machine from the bed. The bed is made using steel angles. In addition, a homemade machine must be equipped with a tool rest. To install it, a rotating bar is constructed.

Homemade machine for sharpening cutters

This design will help in adjusting the level of inclination of the cutting part of the milling-canter machine towards the grinding wheel.

The cutters are sharpened in such a way that the installed cutting part has minimal contact with the rotating wheel.

During operation, it must be brought slowly towards the disk. A homemade sharpening machine can be made according to a pre-designed scheme. In this case, the location of the grinding wheel relative to the tool rest is taken into account.

A homemade machine for sharpening knives of milling and cantering equipment must be equipped with a protective casing that will cover the gap circle.

During assembly, it should be taken into account that the gap between the installed plate and the sharpening wheel should not exceed 3 mm.

A homemade mini-machine for sharpening the cutters of a milling-canter unit must be equipped with flanges that will provide pressure.

It is worth considering that the length of the flanges should not be less than a quarter of the diameter of the grinding wheel.

When assembling it yourself, you need to put a paronite gasket in the gap between the nut and the flange. Thanks to it, the nut will be tightened as tightly as possible on the shaft section.

2.1 How to sharpen a cutter with your own hands?

Sharpening the knife of a milling-canter unit can be carried out without the presence of special mechanisms and devices.

To do this, you can use a diamond block, which is placed on the edge of a workbench or work table. Sharpening the edge of a knife is done by running a whetstone along its front surface.

The pre-cutting element must be cleaned of dirt and dust using a solvent. If the cutter is equipped with a guide bearing, it must be removed before sharpening.

If this is not done, the cutter is likely to become deformed. When sharpening, the block must be periodically moistened with a small amount of water, and after the work is completed, wipe it dry.

It is important to know that in the process of grinding off the front surface, the edge of the blade will be sharpened and its diameter will decrease slightly.

During the sharpening process, it is recommended to use whetstones with varying degrees of grit. The result and cleanliness of the treated surface will directly depend on this.

In addition, when sharpening the knives of a hob-milling machine, in order to maintain the symmetry of the edge, you need to make repeated movements, ensuring uniform pressure.

Depending on the material from which the cutter is made, abrasive (sandpaper) paper can be used instead of timber.

It is mounted on a strip of steel or wooden slats.
You can also adjust the blade using a sharpening machine rotating at low speed. The device can be equipped with a suitable abrasive wheel. to menu

2.3 Safety rules when sharpening

When carrying out work, it is extremely important to adhere to the following safety requirements:

• the grinding wheel must undergo a preliminary rotation test;
• check that the permissible rotation speed of the wheel does not exceed the value indicated on the marking;
• do not use a fork-shaped tool rest, as it does not allow you to adjust the gap from the sides of the circle;
• Before starting work, the abrasive wheel should be balanced.

It is important to consider that when installing the hand rest, the gap between it and the circle did not exceed 3 mm. In this case, the platform of the tool rest should be located on the horizontal axis no higher than 10-15 mm.

Source: https://vi-pole.ru/kak-zatochit-frezu-po-derevu-svoimi-rukami.html

Sharpening cutters: for metal, wood with your own hands, types, application

Sharpening of different shapes of cutters is carried out using specialized equipment. This is a circular cutting tool, although its configuration can vary. The grooves and teeth located around the circumference come in different sizes, and when they rotate, the material is processed.

Types of cutters

There are several types of cutting tools. These include: cylindrical, end, disk, end and groove.

By type of purpose:

• angular;
• shaped;
• keyed;
• to provide T-type grooves.

On the surface:

• plastic;
• tree;
• metal;
• glass;
• others.

Sharpening is difficult, since the length of the cutting base is large. Therefore, specialized tools are used. And in some cases, grinding is carried out manually, but the worker performing this work must have experience. An employee who does not have the skills may allow defects and defects to appear on the teeth: cracks, burrs or cavities, due to which the tool will need to be ground again, and this will lead to a reduction in size.

Milling cutter material

The following materials are used for the manufacture of technological equipment:

• hard alloys;
• high-speed steel;
• metal alloys of increased hardness;
• metal ceramics;
• diamonds.

For direct cutting of metal, the edges of the cutting tool are made of:

• cardan wire;
• diamonds;
• hard alloy compounds;
• ceramic coating.

The difference in technological equipment is determined by its appearance.

Cutter tooth geometry

Productivity depends on proper sharpening of the teeth. Work surface configurations are used to solve even the most complex problems.

The design of a spiral cutter is carried out with a large and small inclination of the teeth at a given angle. The purpose of this type of tool is to carry out roughing and finishing operations, including variable steps.

The rake angle is the angle formed between the flat end and the flute edge of a standard cutter.

Angle value:

• small no more than 35;
• large 35 and above.

An excellent option for initial and finishing machining is the tooth angle of 38. Rectangular tools have the maximum value.

A tool with a variable pitch is in demand; the pitch of the spiral is measured along the length.

Application area

There are various types of tools to perform technological operations. Which cutter to use in this or that case, for this you need to take into account what material needs to be processed.

Common types include:

1. Disk. Elements for cutting material are located on one or both sides at the same time. Used for cutting grooves, sampling, trimming and chamfering.
2. End Designed for turning stepped and flat bases.
3. Cylindrical. Available with helical and straight teeth.
4. Angular. Used for cutting chip flutes in technological equipment.
5. End. They are used for making ledges, contour recesses and grooves.
6. Shaped. Designed for processing shaped surfaces.
7. Worm-shaped. Processing is carried out using the rolling method - touching the workpiece with a tool at one point.

Wood cutters

The following tools are used for processing wooden structures:

1. End. Outwardly they resemble a drill, but the conical part is missing.
2. Edges. Used for cutting edges and various recess configurations. Tools for manual milling are structurally equipped with a bearing to regulate the depth of processing.
3. Grooved. Used for cutting grooves.
4. Copying. Arrangement of the milling head in the form of an arc.

Cutters for plastic

When processing plastic products, the following tools are used:

1. End For processing large bases.
2. Shaped. Used for cutting complex profiles.
3. End. Used to produce pockets or grooves.
4. For engraving. With its help, you can apply patterns or logos to the base.

Glass cutters

Diamond cutters are used to prepare glass products. Designed for creating edges and contours using manual or automatic equipment.

Methods for sharpening cutters

Sharpening cutters is difficult, since it is necessary to process curved and long surfaces. It is also necessary to ensure that the abrasive moves with precision along the edge.

Using the machine

The sharpening technology is carried out in stages:

1. Fastening the cutter in a given position.
2. Bring the surface to be treated to the abrasive wheel until there is no sparking.
3. Removing a metal layer with a thickness of 25 to 50 microns.
4. Sharpen each tooth separately. The work begins by positioning it in the groove formed by the tooth, and the needle should touch the surface of the instrument.
5. Turn on the sharpening machine and, sequentially retracting the cutter, perform the operation.

To perform the work efficiently, each edge of the cutting base should be sharpened equally, that is, the movements should be uniform.

Sharpening cutters for a hand router

Even the best quality cutter will sooner or later become dull and will need to be sharpened. To carry out such a difficult task requires knowledge and skills, so not every person can do it. If you do not know how to sharpen a cutter correctly, seek help from an experienced specialist.

The Mnogofrez online store sells milling cutters of various purposes and sizes. Sharpening wood cutters is a necessary procedure that extends the life of the tool.

Recommendations for sharpening

Before sharpening, the tool must be cleaned of accumulated resins and shavings. This can be done using a regular solvent. One of the ways to sharpen wood cutters for a hand router is to use special equipment. If such a machine is not at hand, then you can use a diamond stone of small thickness and liquid with a soap solution. After finishing sharpening, wash and dry the tool.

Using sharpening wheels

To choose the right wheel, you need to know what material the tool is made of. There are the following types of sharpening wheels:

• Normal and white electrocorundum. Designed for sharpening cutters for wood and metal.
• Elborovye. Such parts are sharpened by high-speed steel cutters.
• Silicon urea or diamond. Needed for processing tools made of hard alloys.

Sharpening using a machine

If you have the opportunity to use special equipment, then be sure to use it. This is the most efficient way to perform such tasks.

Recommendations from the Mnogofrez company will help you sharpen wood cutters:

• Secure the tool to be processed in one position.
• Bring the area to be sharpened to the abrasive disc until sparking appears.
• You need to remove from 25 to 50 microns of metal.
• Each tooth is sharpened separately.
• The work begins with the groove formed by the tooth. In this case, the needle should touch the instrument.
• Sharpening occurs by sequentially retracting the cutter.

When purchasing tools and equipment in the Mnogofrez online store, you can also get advice on how to sharpen a wood router for a hand router.

SEE ALSO: Installing cutters on a machine • How to properly clean cutters • How to use a hand router

Source: https://mnogofrez.ru/articles/zatochka-frez-dlya-ruchnogo-frezera/

Methods for sharpening a cutter on a machine

Cutting tools for milling and boring machines are distinguished by their variety and the presence of several cutting edges. A complex configuration requires high precision grinding, so the cutter is sharpened on automatic and CNC machines. It is impossible to manually make all corners and edges the same.

Each type of cutter has its own sharpening machines. It is impossible to process facing and cutting tools on the same equipment.

When is sharpening necessary?

When the cutter is in operation, its working edge, removing a layer of metal, gradually wears off itself. High temperatures in the cutting area contribute to its rapid wear. If the load increases during operation and the chips come off with torn edges, then it is necessary to sharpen the cutter.

You can check the condition of the edge by looking at it through a magnifying glass, since with magnification the following will be clearly visible:

• chipped places;
• rounded sharp corners;
• edge bending.

The cutter should be sharpened at the first signs of dullness, when the sharp corner has worn off, but the edge has not yet been destroyed.

Types of sharpening

Sharpening of cutters is carried out along the front and side cutting edges and the back part. For example, parting and slotting cutters cut with one front surface. For walk-throughs, the main working surface is lateral, located parallel to or at an angle to the holder axis. The second edge, perpendicular to the axis, slides along the part and cuts off the remaining edges, creating the desired cleanliness class.

The threading machine has two symmetrical edges located at an angle to the thread profile. They are sharpened according to a template. In addition to the angle between the cutting edges themselves, the sharpening angle of the cutter is maintained.

Metal cutters have a complex surface. In some cases they resemble a set of turning cutters arranged in a circle - end cutters, in others cylinders with sharp spirals - cylindrical. Cutting machines have the shape of a flat disk with sharp teeth cut along a radius.

The method of sharpening the cutting edge and backing is selected depending on the type of cutter and the hardness of the material it must cut. In multi-cutting cutters, instead of regrinding, the cutting plates are replaced, aligning them along the plane and radius.

Cylindrical cutters used for calibrating holes and processing grooves with a high class of dimensional accuracy, after regrinding along the back outer surface, change their diameter to a smaller one. They are rechecked on indicator-type devices and marked in accordance with the actual size obtained. In case of severe wear, regrind to a smaller standard size.

Sharpening tool

To sharpen cutters on the outer surface - the backing - use cup-shaped finely shaped wheels. They are installed on a sharpening machine, which ensures the direction angle of the edge and the movement of the sharpening tool along the entire length of the part being sharpened. The machines operate automatically according to the specified settings. Devices for manual adjustment are driven by a person. They only help maintain the desired angle.

Sharpening of turning tools for metal is carried out on sharpening wheels with medium and fine grain wheels. Finishing is carried out on polishing diamond wheels and whetstones. The correctness of the angle is checked with a special template.

Sharpening of disc cutters is carried out on 2 planes. First, the inner cutting edge is processed with a thin circle moving perpendicular to the plane of the disk. Then the back side is sanded. In this case, the cutter rotates by 2–5 teeth after each pass of the circle. This ensures uniform sharpening. The number of teeth in one step of the tool should not be a multiple of their total number. For example, for a disk with 20 cutting edges, a step of 2 to 3 protrusions is selected.

Order and features

Regardless of the complexity of the machines and devices, the cutter is sharpened in a certain order.

Preparation

Considering that the tool is working, it should be prepared following the sharpening rules.

1. Clean off any adhering chips, oil and coolant residues. Place galoshes in kerosene and leave for several minutes. Remove dirt with a soft brush and wipe the cutter dry with a rag.
2. Check sharpening angles using a template.
3. Install the cutter into the machine.
4. Adjust the desired angle by turning the grinding wheel.

Having turned on the rotation of the sharpening tool, you need to touch it to the cutting edge, slowly manually bringing it to the cutter. Check that the settings are correct and only then start the automatic feed or, with the wheel turned on, move the cutter manually along the guides.

How to sharpen a wood router

Wood cutters are made of softer metal, so they are usually sharpened by hand using simple tools. The block is fixedly attached to the table. The cutter is positioned in the holder with the cutting edge parallel to the abrasive surface. After this, each surface is sharpened by the translational movement of the tool.

Wood cutters for sharpening

Sharpening cutters for metal

Each type of metal cutter has its own sharpening machine or device. They allow you to rotate the tool and process a tooth with a complex configuration at the desired angle along its entire length.

The cup circle provides a smooth edge surface, without radial depressions. It does the job longer than a cylindrical one, but the edge is obtained exactly according to the template.

When sharpening on 2 or more surfaces, first process the leading edge and adjust the sharpening angle. After this, the backing is done. It is advisable to perform both operations from one installation.

Hob cutters are processed with a flat wheel along the working plane, then their back part is ground in a circle. The shape of the tooth socket is checked using a template. It can be corrected using a CNC machine.

Turning cutters are manually sharpened on sharpening machines. Industrial enterprises may have automatic machines for processing large batches of identical tools.

Source: https://metalloy.ru/obrabotka/zatochka/frezy-na-stanke

Wood cutter: basic rules for sharpening

The teeth of the product can be completely different. The inclination of these elements can be different and is characterized by the main part of the edge. The parameters for determining the appropriate teeth depend on the tool, as well as the features of the product you choose.

The process of sharpening a cutter can be done without special expensive equipment, since thin diamond stones can be used. In this case, you need to use plain water or a liquid with a soap solution. When the sharpening process comes to an end, you should wash and dry the tool.

First, the cutter must be dismantled. The main thing is that you do not forget to clean it of resins and wood. An ordinary solvent can cope with these tasks.

To effectively solve these problems, you must choose quality materials. If you do not do this, then the work will not bring the desired result.

The process of sharpening a cutter: basic rules

• you need to use bars with different levels of grit. This setting depends on the material you are going to remove;
• The purity of the base, which you initially determined, plays an important role. Before you carry out the sharpening process, you should make sure that the beam will be of the shape you need;
• symmetry is preserved only if you try to create a configuration similar to the movement of the cutters during the process of sharpening the product;
• if the material of the teeth is quite soft, then replace the beam with abrasive paper, which will provide a perfectly even base;
• the end products are sharpened on the device that is intended for this purpose. The wheel does not spin very quickly, so you will have to buy an abrasive product.

Of course, the process of sharpening a cutter takes a lot of time. However, this resource will pay for itself over time, because you will do your job with maximum effect.

These are the main points that relate to this field of activity. You must take into account all the nuances in order to achieve maximum results, because all other rules will not provide you with the same effect.

Source: http://euroelectrica.ru/kak-zatochit-frezu-po-derevu/

How to sharpen wood cutters

An operation such as sharpening a wood cutter is not so simple. This process requires certain knowledge and skills.

Buying wood cutters in Kyiv and other cities is now not a big problem. But sooner or later the highest quality of them will become dull, and then it will have to be sharpened. How to do this correctly?