How to solder correctly for dummies

How to learn to solder with a hand soldering iron + step-by-step instructions

Teaching is the mother of creation! And even if the creation is considered to be just ordinary work with an electric soldering iron, such work cannot be done efficiently without studying. Everyone, including girls, should be able to hold a soldering iron and solder with tin.

Therefore, let's consider a simple and at the same time complex technical point - how to learn how to solder with a hand soldering iron and apply science if necessary.

And the need for soldering with tin can be very different, be it household irons, radio sockets, electric kettles, electronic circuit boards, etc.

What kind of soldering should you use with a hand soldering iron?

The need to disassemble electronic devices for repair purposes is quite common. Meanwhile, any electronics, as a rule, contains a printed circuit board, where electronic components are connected into a circuit by soldering.

Soldering with an electric soldering iron is an action aimed at creating a strong connection of electronic parts by melting solder and then applying the melt at the point where the parts meet.

FOR SOLDERING

The technology of soldering using a hand-held electric soldering iron is widely used for repairing electronics.

Therefore, it is advisable to be able to use this technology

Solder is an alloy of soft metals capable of acquiring a semi-liquid state when heated to a certain temperature (~250ºC for POS60 solder).

When the heating stops, the solder at the point of application cools, thereby creating a strong electrical connection. The peculiarity of such soldering is that the soldered assembly is also easy to unsolder using the same tool - an electric soldering iron.

What tools and accessories are used when soldering?

The basis for soldering work is a relatively small number of tools and components:

1. Electric (or other) soldering iron.
2. Soldering iron stand.
3. Solder.
4. Flux (the simplest and most popular is rosin).

This is what a simplified version of the hardware and accessories for manual soldering looks like. However, with increasing skills of an electrician and increasing needs for soldering work, it is possible to expand the range when additionally required:

1. Soldering Station.
2. Device "Third hand".
3. Set of solder, fluxes, soldering pastes.

What kind of electric soldering iron is it?

Hand tool - soldering iron, powered from a standard AC outlet (220V). There is a direct power tool and power supply via adapter. There are manual soldering irons for different power (10 - 100 W). However, for most soldering cases, a 25-40 W device is usually sufficient.

SOLDERING IRONS

Hand-held soldering tool designs come in a variety of shapes and configurations. There are tools complemented by different tip shapes and auxiliary accessories

The main tool of the soldering process is available in different versions. For example, a simple one with a handle or in the form of a pistol. The design of most soldering irons supports the interchangeability of soldering tips. Thanks to the mutual replacement of tips, different soldering methods are implemented.

Working with a hand soldering iron requires caution and compliance with operating rules, since a high heating temperature of 450-500ºC and a high supply voltage of 220 V are used.

What is the best stand for an electric soldering iron?

This accessory is optional, but recommended in any case. In principle, soldering can be carried out without a soldering iron stand, but this option is accompanied by a lot of inconvenience. Moreover, it is not recommended for novice electrical installers to work without a stand.

STANDS

A stand for parking a soldering tool is an accessory that provides not only ease of use and soldering, but also safety for the electrician

Convenient work with a stand is seen not only in parking the soldering iron during work. Usually the stand is equipped with trays for solder and flux, which also adds to the comfort during soldering. Therefore, if you intend to do soldering work, you should acquire not only a soldering iron, but also a convenient, practical stand.

What solders and fluxes are used?

There are many varieties of solder in relation to soldering conditions. This soldering accessory comes with:

• lead alloy,
• lead-free alloy,
• with the addition of flux,
• without adding flux.

Traditionally, solder is produced in wire form with a diameter of 0.8-15 mm, as well as rods. The wire version is considered the most common.

For soldering electronics, lead-free solder is most often used with or without the addition of rosin. The lead-free type of solder is based on an alloy of tin and copper. Lead solder (60% tin, 40% lead) is also used (much less frequently), but this option is considered harmful to health and is not recommended for use.

When using lead solder for soldering with a soldering iron, it is necessary to provide more active ventilation. After completing soldering work, be sure to wash your hands with laundry soap.

TIN

Integral accessories for soldering using a hand soldering iron are soldering rosin and wire solder. There are also solder pastes and rod-shaped solders.

Working with solder is accompanied by different types of flux.

Among the options used, there is a soldering option where acid acts as a flux (soldering steel, stainless steel). In this case, a separate “acid” soldering iron core is recommended, since the acid quickly “eats” the non-ferrous metal.

“Acid” core can be found in specialized stores.

What is the technique for cleaning the core tip?

Soldering requires periodic cleaning of the soldering iron core tip. In practice, a standard damp sponge is often used, thanks to which the tip of the soldering iron core can be kept clean and optimal for work. The sponge also quite effectively removes oxidation that inevitably forms.

The presence of an oxidation film on the tip of the soldering iron core covers the working layer of solder. A black film is formed, blocking active adhesion of solder and uniform distribution over the tip.

Using a regular damp sponge seems to be effective, but this method shortens the life of the tip due to the expansion and contraction of the copper. In addition, a wet sponge temporarily reduces the temperature of the tip. Therefore, the best alternative for cleaning seems to be the use of a brass “sponge”.

SPONGE BRASS

A convenient means for cleaning the soldering iron tip from oxides and residues of molten solder is a brass mesh. A better alternative to the traditional wet sponge

An accessory such as a brass “sponge” is a fine metal mesh made of brass, similar to that used for washing dishes. The only difference is that the washing mesh is made of steel or stainless steel.

Why do you need a soldering station and a “third hand”?

A more technologically advanced tool is a soldering station. A tool of this type is practical to use when there is a need for constant work associated with soldering. The soldering station provides greater flexibility in operation, plus control of operation (automatic adjustment of heating temperature).

The advantage of a soldering station is the ability of the device to maintain the set temperature of the soldering iron. This approach contributes to high quality soldering work on a wide range of projects. Soldering stations help create a safe workplace by incorporating temperature sensors, alarm settings, and even password protection.

THIRD HAND

A soldering station and a “third hand” are tools for professional use when it comes to large-scale work, as well as soldering of small electronic parts

In addition to the soldering station, professional electricians use another tool - the so-called “third hand”. We are talking about a special holder equipped with a magnifying glass. With the help of such a holder it is convenient to solder miniature parts and work with electronic boards with small wiring.

Step-by-step soldering process

Before you start soldering, you should prepare a soldering iron and all the necessary accessories.

1. Prepare solder and flux.
2. If the soldering iron is new, clean the tip with fine sandpaper until it has a copper shine.
3. Heat the tip of the soldering iron core to operating temperature (not higher than 400ºC).
4. Dip the tip in rosin and apply to the solder.
5. Grab a small amount of solder onto the tip.
6. Thoroughly tin the working surfaces of the tip with solder.

The procedure for tinning the tip is recommended to be performed on a copper surface of low mass. Ideally suited for tinning the wide traces of any defective printed circuit board. Having completed tinning, you can proceed directly to soldering.

TIN SUCTION

The procedure for soldering installed electronic parts in itself is not particularly difficult. The quality of creating connections depends on the correct sequence of actions and skill

If soldering is carried out on clean (never soldered) tracks of the electronic board, all soldering points must also be prepared - sanded with “zero” sandpaper to a characteristic shine. Next, perform the following steps:

1. Insert the electronic component into the corresponding holes on the board.
2. Set the component to vertical/horizontal levels.
3. On the back side of the board (solder points), bend the component leads at 45º.
4. Dip the soldering iron tip into rosin.
5. Grab a small amount of solder.
6. Touch the tip to the surface of the board at the soldering point.

The result of touching, as a rule, is a uniform spreading of molten solder around the lead of the electronic component. Once the solder has filled the soldering point, the soldering iron tip should be removed to allow the applied solder to cure. Repeat the operation at the next point. In this way, soldering of any other points on the electronic board is carried out.

How to solder wires using a soldering iron?

The soldering procedure aimed at connecting wires is somewhat different from soldering on electronic board tracks. It should be noted: only copper conductors or those built on alloys with a high copper content can be soldered with tin solder using rosin and similar fluxes.

SOLDERING SET

Features of wire soldering are proper tinning and correct contact time. The quality largely depends on the composition of the soldered conductor strands

Initially, it is necessary to prepare the ends of the conductors for soldering - strip them to a characteristic shine and twist them tightly (stranded). Then:

1. The prepared end of the conductor is inserted together with the soldering iron tip briefly into the rosin.
2. Next, grab the solder with a tip and apply it to the stripped end of the conductor, covered with a thin layer of rosin.
3. Distribute the solder evenly with the tip until the entire area of ​​the end of the conductor is completely covered.

When performing the last point, you should control the process so as not to overheat the wire insulation. If the insulation begins to melt, you should remove the soldering iron for a while and repeat tinning a little later. Do a similar procedure with the other wire. Then place the ends one on top of the other and fill with solder.

You can also use another option:

1. Clean the ends of the conductors until they are shiny.
2. Twist the ends together.
3. Dip briefly into melted rosin.
4. Tin and fill with solder.

The finishing touch

At this point, the practice of a novice electrical installer can be considered complete. Anyone who has mastered the technology of soldering with a hand soldering iron will have wide horizons for creativity and work.

Source: https://zetsila.ru/%D0%BD%D0%B0%D1%83%D1%87%D0%B8%D1%82%D1%8C%D1%81%D1%8F-%D0% BF%D0%B0%D1%8F%D1%82%D1%8C-%D1%80%D1%83%D1%87%D0%BD%D1%8B%D0%BC-%D0%BF%D0% B0%D1%8F%D0%BB%D1%8C%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BC/

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron: instructions for beginners

When a novice electrician watches a master work with a soldering iron, all the actions seem simple and understandable.

However, as soon as you pick up the tool yourself, troubles immediately begin: the solder does not hold, the contacts fall off, the insulation burns, the tip becomes covered with soot.

To prevent this from happening, certain rules must be followed.

The master knows them and fulfills them. For a beginner, I advise you to first understand how to solder correctly with a soldering iron. Only after that do you take on this work.

3 main secrets: posture, light and air

Even at home, to perform high-quality soldering, a comfortable worker position with good lighting is required. I recommend installing a desktop near a window that receives sunlight during the day and an artificial source of light in the evening.

Soldering involves heating substances and releasing fumes. Although heated rosin smells like pine needles, this smell is still harmful if inhaled frequently. And other fluxes and acids are even more dangerous. Entering the body through the respiratory system, they accumulate and cause chronic diseases.

Therefore, ventilation is important. Work with an open window, or even better, use forced exhaust.

Useful devices

A short tin with a paper lining is necessary for working with solder and rosin.

A special stand helps to store a heated soldering iron, and a sponge allows you to clean the hot tip from oxides.

It is convenient to remove excess melted solder with a desoldering pump.

Working with small objects is made easier by tweezers, small vices, and “third hand” devices. The simplest option: regular pliers with an elastic band.

You can make other simple designs with your own hands.

Selecting and preparing a soldering iron

The sale offers various models with voltage from 12 to 220 or 380 volts. Each soldering iron is created for a specific job, although it has universal capabilities.

They are assessed by the power consumption of electrical energy, which is spent on heating the tip of the tip.

It is convenient to solder radio components with a soldering iron with a power of 40÷60 watts, and for wires choose 80÷100.

For beginner soldering ironers, it is enough to use simple models of two soldering iron designs with:

1. heating from nichrome wire and a copper rod;
2. ceramic insert and copper tip with nickel coating.

The first type of soldering iron is cheaper, but it requires constant care of the tip, takes longer to heat up to the desired temperature, and wears out faster.

A soldering iron with a ceramic insert works better, but is more expensive. In addition, ceramics require careful handling. It can break due to mechanical shock.

Personal preferences

I have been using transformer soldering irons of the “Moment” type for more than 30 years.

Some people don't like it because of the extra weight. But for me this indicator is not critical. The industrial wattage of 65 is good for amateur radio soldering, but it is not enough for connecting electrical wires.

Therefore, I assembled a more powerful structure with my own hands.

This technology is described in a separate article on the website.

About counterfeit brands

For a long time I could not understand why I like transformer soldering irons, but they are massively criticized on the Internet. Even in the above article, readers expressed a negative opinion about them, criticizing their fragility and poor quality.

I realized this only after a visitor to my site sent me a burnt-out soldering iron from the Chinese company Licota for experiments.

It looks very nice, is light in weight, fits comfortably in the hand and is originally packaged. Upon closer examination of it, I discovered many installation and design defects. I wrote them down in separate articles:

When buying cheap soldering irons from dubious sellers, you can end up with low-quality products, lose money and time. Please pay attention to electrical performance and warranties.

There are other different types of soldering irons designed to get professional work done well. But it’s better to start learning soldering using the models described above.

About sharpening the tip

Cleanliness is not only a guarantee of our health, but also a guarantee of high-quality soldering. It must be observed during work.

The copper tip of the soldering iron heats up to such a state that oxides and carbon deposits form on it. When they penetrate the solder, you can forget about the quality of the soldering. Therefore, the tip of the tip should always be clean and well sharpened.

Its shape is created for a specific type of parts to be soldered:

• The “flat head screwdriver” transfers heat well. It is used to heat massive parts;
• A “pyramid” or “sharp cone” makes it more convenient to control the amount of heating. It is used to connect small radio elements or thin wires;
• The “blunted cone” is sharpened for soldering medium-section wires.

The first type of sharpening is more popular. It can be formed by hammer blows. Then the metal is better compacted and retains its properties longer.

By placing this tip on the part to be soldered with a plane or an acute angle, you can regulate the degree of its heating.

Modern ceramic soldering irons have a set of removable tips of the most necessary shapes. They are coated with a layer of nickel on top and do not require sharpening or preparatory treatment.

How to tin a copper tip

The tip of a new soldering iron without a protective nickel coating must be coated with a thin layer of solder, which will protect it from carbon deposits and premature wear. For this:

1. the soldering iron is turned on under voltage, heating the tip to working condition;
2. immerse it in a piece of rosin;
3. melt the solder, distributing it over the surface of the tip tip. It is convenient to use a wooden object.

What are the soldering steps?

The main objective of this technology is to connect two metal parts, most often conductors, with a low-melting alloy so that they hold firmly and pass electric current with the lowest possible resistance.

To do this, you need to perform a series of actions sequentially. Let's look at them using the example of soldering wires. This:

• removing insulation from the connected ends of the wire;
• mechanical stripping of metal cores to an ideal state of oxides;
• heat treatment with flux - tinning the ends with a thin layer;
• heating the solder and applying it to the soldering area.

Removing insulation

The dielectric layer of the wire can be made of polyethylene, fabric, varnish or other similar material. It needs to be removed.

This work is best done with a sharp knife, placing its blade almost parallel to the axis of the metal core. This prevents cutting and deep scratches. They weaken mechanical strength and increase electrical resistance. This cannot be allowed.

Thin wires coated with varnish can simply be treated with an open flame of matches or a lighter. The same method is suitable for twisted pair and even thicker wires.

There are special pliers of various designs on sale for stripping insulation from the end of a wire of any diameter. They allow this work to be done professionally without damaging the core.

After removing the insulation, the condition of the metal surface is assessed. Pay attention to cleanliness, absence of dents and cuts.

Removing dirt and oxide film

Only pure metal can ensure a high-quality connection of parts when soldering. It is created by mechanical cleaning of the surface and chemical solutions.

First, they work with a knife blade, lightly pressing it against the contaminated metal at an obtuse angle. The core is pulled from the insulation layer to the bare end, rotating slightly in one direction. The metal will immediately lose its dullness and begin to shine.

Chemical cleaning involves treatment with solvents, alcohol, and FES flux.

Tinning of contact pads

The final cleaning of the metal surface of the conductor is carried out by heat treatment with flux, using a tinned soldering iron tip. The most popular and universal remedy is rosin. It is used in a solid state, dissolved in alcohol or jelly-like.

The sale allows you to purchase rosin in any form and provides a wide range of other fluxes.

For soldering parts of electrical circuits, it is not recommended to use fluxes containing acids . They are quite difficult to completely neutralize, and even minor residues quickly oxidize the metal and destroy its structure.

The sequence of tinning a wire core with solid rosin:

1. Heat the soldering iron to the desired temperature. It can range from 180 to 240 degrees and depends on the solder and the metal parts being connected. To control the heating, the tips are touched with a tip of solid rosin. If it begins to rapidly form steam, then heating is normal.
2. The cleaned conductor is placed on the rosin and touched with the tip of the soldering iron. The wire is rotated to coat it evenly with molten flux.
3. The tip of a soldering iron melts the solder and applies it to the rosin-treated wire, evenly distributing it over the surface.

A solution of rosin in alcohol is applied with a brush to the surface to be tinned or simply dripped through a dropper tube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKZBAqnGoZ4

Jelly-like rosin is squeezed out of a special syringe, which is very convenient to do.

The conductor treated with liquid or jelly-like rosin is heated with a heated soldering iron tip with a drop of solder, accelerating it over the entire contact area.

Direct soldering

It is started after both contact pads are prepared for connection: cleaned of dirt and oxides, tinned.

The soldered ends are connected together. A piece of solder is placed on them with a heated soldering iron, ensuring that it spreads over both areas. After this, the tip is sharply retracted to the side, and the parts remain motionless until the tin completely hardens. This is judged by a slight darkening of its color.

Correctly performed soldering is distinguished by a strong connection of contacts and a smooth surface of the solidified solder, which is slightly shiny. Its quality is checked using a small mechanical tensile force.

If the surface of the solder has darkening and unevenness, then the soldering is unreliable and needs to be corrected.

5 Tips for Creating Reliable Soldering

These include:

1. Warming up of the parts to be connected should be done not with the tip of the tip, but with its side surface. This provides greater contact and better temperature transfer. However, when working with a tip with a blunt tip or a transformer soldering iron, this advice will practically not help.
2. To give increased strength to the connection being created, additional twisting of the wires is done.
3. A mechanical device, the third hand, makes it easier to fix the stationary position of the parts being connected.
4. New electronic components are manufactured with tinned contact surfaces. If they are not contaminated in any way, then flux and solder can be immediately applied to them without prior tinning. This speeds up the soldering process.
5. The sale offers craftsmen tubular solder, inside of which there is a flux. Usually this is rosin. This combination is easier to work with: the number of intermediate operations is reduced due to the simultaneous supply of both components.

4 signs of high-quality soldering

The reliability of the connection is assessed by:

1. the bright shine of the created surface layer;
2. absence of excess solder on parts;
3. tensile strength of control mechanical force;
4. integrity of the insulation layer, absence of traces of melting.

Additionally, I recommend watching the video from the owner of AutoAndElectronics “How to solder correctly with a soldering iron.”

If you still have questions about this topic, then ask them in the comments. I will definitely answer.

Source: https://HouseDiz.ru/kak-payat-payalnikom-pravilno-instrukciya-dlya-novichkov/

How to learn to solder with a soldering iron from scratch

:

Any novice radio amateur, one way or another connected with electronics, has to solve the problem of how to learn how to solder with a soldering iron from scratch. At first glance, there is nothing complicated about this, but this is a common misconception of all novice electronics engineers, since without practical skills it is impossible to ensure a reliable and high-quality soldering connection.

What is soldering and what is the essence of the process

The end result of soldering is the joining of two metal elements. The soldering process itself is provided by an independent metal with a much lower melting point. It is this metal that performs the function of solder.

Each soldering method is based on the principle of heating metal elements at the connection point. The heating temperature must exceed the temperature at which the metal used for solder melts. In this mode, the solder metal, being molten, freely flows into the spaces and crevices between the parts, partially penetrating even into the metal structure itself. After solidification, a mechanical bond and electrical contact are formed in this place.

There are two main conditions, without which it will simply be impossible to solve the problem of how to solder correctly:

• At the point of soldering, the elements must be as clean as possible. The connection to the surface is carried out at the molecular level, and even a small dirt or oxide film will significantly reduce the reliability of the contact. It is quite possible that the parts will not connect at all.
• Compliance with the temperature regime mentioned earlier. If the temperature difference is insufficient, the solder crystal lattice will not be able to form normally due to thermal shrinkage during solidification.

Copper and its alloys are well joined with traditional solders. They are suitable for steel, aluminum and other metals. The only serious limitation is the soldering of large metal parts due to the impossibility of heating them to the required temperatures.

Most often, solder consists of a tin-lead alloy, which may contain varying amounts of tin. The percentage of content is displayed in the marking, for example, POS-40 or POS-60.

The melting temperature also depends on this indicator; for the first solder it is 235 degrees, and for the second it is 183 degrees. The melting point of POSV-33 solder, consisting of tin, lead and bismuth, is even lower.

Joining aluminum parts requires special solders with a high melting point.

Another important component is fluxes, with the help of which metal surfaces are cleaned of oxides in the form of films. The most widespread is rosin, which protects heated metal from contact with air.

Selection of fluxes and solders

Since the quality of soldering joints largely depends on the correct choice of fluxes and solders, these materials should be considered in more detail. Currently, there are a large number of these components suitable for almost all types of soldering.

The main function of fluxes is to pickle metal parts, remove the oxide film and subsequently protect the surface from corrosion. Flux coating ensures its cleanliness, good wetting and spreading of tin.

Fluxes are selected in accordance with the metals and alloys that need to be joined. The composition of any flux includes metal salts, alkalis and acids that actively react to increased temperature. In this regard, there is a conditional division of these materials into two types.

The first of them is active; it is based on hydrochloric, perchloric and other inorganic acids. Their aggressive effect on metal requires quick rinsing after finishing work. This is the only drawback of such fluxes, but with their help you can join almost any metals. They are available in liquid form and are considered more convenient for application. They add alcohol or glycerin, which completely evaporate when heated.

The second type of flux consists of rosin and is used for joining non-ferrous metals. For steel parts they are considered less effective. At the end of the work, the rosin must be washed off, since over time it causes corrosion and becomes an electrical conductor when left in a humid environment for a long time.

Solder for work is easier to select. Lead and tin compounds marked PIC are mainly used. The percentage of tin content is indicated by numbers following the letters. A higher tin content in solder provides higher mechanical strength and electrical conductivity of connections. At the same time, the melting temperature of solder with a high proportion of tin also decreases. The addition of lead normalizes solidification and prevents the tin from spreading.

Some modern solders are produced without lead (BP), instead of which zinc or indium is added. They have a higher melting point, but the joints are more durable and resistant to corrosion. And, on the contrary, there are solders made of light alloys that can spread from 90-110 degrees. They are used to connect components that are highly sensitive to overheating.

Soldering iron selection

There are several types of soldering irons used at home. They are designed for different voltages and can operate from 12, 220 and 380 volts.

The power of a particular soldering iron is selected based on the work performed:

• Soldering of electronic parts and components – 40-60 W.
• Parts up to 1 mm thick – 80-100 W.
• Elements 2 mm thick require a power of 100 W or more.

As a rule, home craftsmen have two soldering irons - low and medium power, capable of solving almost all problems. Training can be completed at any of them. It is recommended to solder thick-walled parts using professional equipment.

Preparation for soldering

The very first time you connect the soldering iron to the network, it will definitely smoke. At this moment, the factory lubricant burns out. After the emission of smoke stops, the soldering iron must be turned off and allowed to cool. Then, before soldering, you need to sharpen the tip.

The soldering iron tip is made in the form of a cylindrical rod. The material is copper alloy. Fixation is carried out with a clamping screw. In most cases, the tip comes without sharpening, and therefore it should be prepared. You can change the shape using a hammer, file or sandpaper.

Each type of work requires its own tip configuration:

• The shape is flat or blade-shaped by flattening. Flat corner sharpening may be required to join massive parts.
• Sharpening in the shape of a sharp cone or pyramid is required in order to solder small parts.
• A less sharp cone is needed for soldering thick conductors and large parts.

In the absence of a protective coating, the tip of the tool must be tinning. A thin layer of tin is applied to the surface of the working part. This procedure is performed during the first start-up, when there is no longer any smoke emission. After the tool is ready, we learn to solder.

Methods for soldering parts and components

Soldering wires is considered the easiest procedure. The ends of each wire are dipped into the dissolved flux, after which it is necessary to go over them with a soldering iron, the tip of which is also well moistened with flux.

During tinning itself, it is recommended to shake off all excess solder. During the joining process, a twist is gradually formed. It warms up, and all free space is filled with tin.

In another case, the ends are soaked in flux, and soldering is done immediately, without tinning. This method is often used in connections of thin conductors or many wire strands. With a good flux and a powerful soldering iron, a high-quality and reliable connection is ensured.

Working with electronics is much more difficult. This already requires certain knowledge and practical skills. However, even a novice master can perform simple steps to repair the circuit:

• Before soldering, the terminal elements with legs must be fixed in their holes with wax or plasticine. On the other side of the board, the soldering iron must be pressed tightly to the terminal to warm it up. Next, thin solder in the form of a wire with flux is inserted into this place. Very little tin is required, the main thing is that it flows evenly into the hole from all sides.
• If the hole is too large and the legs are dangling in it, this area should be moistened with a small amount of flux. Next, the tin is brought to the leg and flows down it, after which the hole is evenly filled.

Source: https://electric-220.ru/news/kak_nauchitsja_pajat_pajalnikom_s_nulja/2018-11-28-1610

How to use a soldering iron: materials, instructions, tips

There are many methods that are successfully used to splice wires, but the most effective of them is the well-known soldering. Only it guarantees complete inseparability of connections experiencing constant increased load. It may seem to novice home electricians and radio amateurs that this process is indecently elementary.

Those craftsmen who often have to work with the device (both at work and at home) think differently. Such people believe that the ability to solder well is akin to art. Therefore, before starting any practical exercises, it is better to ask how to use a soldering iron most effectively, and how to solder wires correctly.

Even minimal knowledge will help you quickly master new skills.

Soldering iron and its tasks

Soldering is the joining of metal contacts using a melt (lead and tin), which has electrolytic (conducting) properties. The difference between this operation and welding is that not a single element being connected melts during the process: the solder used has a lower melting point than that of metal conductors. After the melt hardens, a permanent contact connection is formed.

Devices used at home are electric soldering irons. The choice of device depends on what work the master plans to perform in the future:

• for soldering electronic elements, a low power of 40-60 W will be enough;
• if the thickness of the soldered parts is no more than 1 mm, then 80-100 W will be enough;
• elements with walls up to 2 mm require heavy artillery - a tool with a power above 100 W.

To be able to carry out almost any similar work at home, it is better for a home craftsman to purchase two different devices at once - the first and the second; there is no need for a more powerful one: it is better if an experienced “soldering iron” person handles the soldering of thick-walled parts.

Compositions and additional tools

You need to purchase a few more auxiliary materials. This list includes:

1. Solder, which was already mentioned in passing. For connecting copper wires, tin-lead solders POS-40, POS-50 or POS-60 are optimal, where the numbers are the percentage of tin content, since lead is added only to reduce the cost. For soldering aluminum contacts - zinc-based alloys: TsA-15 (zinc + aluminum), grade A (zinc, copper, tin), TsO-12, P250A (zinc + tin).
2. Flux. It is used to clean wires from various contaminants, as well as from oxide (oxide) film. The purpose of the flux is to ensure good adhesion (adhesion) of the solder to the surface. More often, rosin or mixtures with it (glycerin, alcohol, zinc) are used in this role: for example, LTI-120. For silver and stainless steel, acidic (active) fluxes are used, but their residues must be washed off with alcohol.

There are also solder pastes, which contain two main components - solder and flux. The mixture is applied to the part, then it is heated with a soldering iron tip. The purpose of use is soldering in hard-to-reach places for surface mounting of SMD components.

To work normally with a soldering iron you will need:

• a stand that has two metal supports - for the body and the handle;
• file for sharpening or cleaning the tip;
• miniature pliers or tweezers with heat-shrinkable tubing - for holding quickly and very hot wires;
• alcohol to remove flux residues, a rag to remove solder;
• sandpaper (needle file) for cleaning conductors;
• heat shrink tubes of different diameters and/or electrical tape for conductors.

Preparing for work

Before using a soldering iron, it is better to study all the hidden points that will make the work convenient and safe. The first concern is the organization of the workplace. The main requirement is its proximity to the outlet, so that if necessary, you can turn off the device from the power supply almost instantly.

A convenient stand that allows you to quickly pick up and put the device back has already been written about. You can make it yourself using wood or textolite as a base. M-shaped posts are usually made of steel wire; an alternative is a rod whose diameter is 4-5 mm.

It’s hard to imagine the convenient work of a “soldering iron” without small containers for rosin and solder. The best option is fairly wide but low jars made of metal. It is recommended to mount them on a stand for a soldering iron.

Conductors

They are stripped of insulation (30-50 mm or more if the wire diameter is large), then the oxide film is mechanically removed. Clean the surfaces using sandpaper until shiny. If the metal wires are heavily contaminated, a solvent is used. Soldering acid is used to process steel parts.

Sting

The non-ideal condition of the tool requires preliminary preparation, since it is impossible to use a soldering iron if the tip of the tip has lost its shape. The work area is first inspected. If defects are detected - sagging or gouges - the original shape (45° bevel) is restored with a file.

Next, the soldering iron tip is tinned and covered with solder. The operation is done like this:

• First, the device is heated to operating temperature;
• one side of the tip is first placed in rosin, then in solder;
• excess solder is wiped off with a rag without turning off the tool; an alternative is to wipe the surface on a wooden surface;
• Prepare the second side of the soldering iron in the same way.

If the work area has one bevel, only that bevel is tinned.

Soldering

Now about how to use a soldering iron for its intended purpose: how to solder wires correctly. The process itself is simple, but for better results you need to become familiar with several conditions. After turning on a household tool, you usually wait about 5 minutes, during which time it heats up to the optimal temperature, allowing the rosin to boil and the melt to become homogeneous.

A temperature of 240-280° is considered normal. With insufficient heating, the flux will only soften slightly, and the tin will melt slightly. Solder cannot be used in this condition. Overheating will also lead to a “disaster”: the flux will hiss and spit, and the melt will lose its plasticity. In such a situation, the soldering iron is disconnected from the network and given time to cool down.

Tinning

When the melting point of the rosin is reached, the stripped, prepared part of the conductor is placed on a piece, then heated with a soldering iron until the entire wire is completely immersed in rosin. After this, take a drop of solder onto the tip and quickly distribute it along the wire, which is turned slightly. The “ready” copper conductor gets rid of the “treacherous” redness and becomes silvery. Proceed in the same way with all parts intended for soldering.

Main job

The prepared conductors are tightly connected. In some cases, it is more advisable to twist. Taking solder onto the tip, press it with little force onto the wires, which are held together by hand.

When the spread solder covers the entire joint, the operation is considered successfully completed, but the soldering iron is not removed until the solder has cooled. To speed up this process, which takes only 3-4 seconds, it is recommended to blow on it.

If the thickness of the solder is not satisfactory, then transfer another drop with a sting.

The last step is to isolate the junction. After the conductors have cooled, tape is wrapped around them. Those who want greater reliability put on a heat-shrinkable tube, which they then heat up. If the work involved electrical wiring, then use combined protection - both options at once: after winding the tape, heat shrink is put on it.

Twist

To ensure greater reliability of the connection, it is recommended to pre-twist the ends of the conductors. The melt is applied in such a way that it gets into the gaps between them. Butt soldering of parts is not encouraged for obvious reasons: such a connection cannot boast of strength. If you need to solder a wire to the middle of another, then the end of the first is wrapped around the second; an extreme case if the length is insufficient is to form a loop.

Soldering Features

They exist if you use other compounds and more complex wires.

1. Flux operation. In the case of an active mixture, the wires are not first cleaned of the oxide film; the acid will “eat” it. They are lubricated with flux, then heated with a soldering iron, onto which a small amount of solder is taken. In subsequent actions, there are almost no differences from the “timeless classic”, except for wiping the soldering areas with a cotton swab and alcohol. A simple operation will destroy the remnants of the aggressive composition.
2. Stranded conductors. Here, before tinning, all elements are untwisted so that they can be immersed in rosin. When applying solder, watch all the wiring very carefully, since each one must have a thin layer of it. Before soldering, they are twisted together again, and then acted in the manner described above.
3. Union of copper and aluminum. They cannot be harnessed into one cart: in this case, soldering is impossible. The reason is “incompatibility of characters”: different degrees of thermal conductivity and electrical conductivity. This union will inevitably lead to separation - a breakdown in contact. There is an exit. It is the most reliable and simple, shown in the photo.

Any person may need such an operation. The answers to questions about how to use a soldering iron and how to solder wires correctly are not difficult to understand. All you need for success is a good tool, quality materials and what will come soon - experience that needs to be “gained.”

You can see how the whole “live” process happens in this video:

Source: https://dom-i-remont.info/posts/obshhie-voprosy/kak-polzovatsya-payalnikom-ballada-o-tom-kak-pravilno-payat-provoda/

Basics of HIGH-QUALITY SOLDERING techniques without errors

13.09.2012

To learn how to solder correctly, you need to prepare: a soldering iron (how to choose the right soldering iron), a soldering iron stand, a wooden block, solder, flux, pliers or tweezers, side cutters. Before soldering, the soldering iron must be prepared. To do this, use a file to sharpen the soldering iron tip to 45 degrees ( this is especially true for a new soldering iron, because...

anti-carbon coating on the tip of a new soldering iron, prevents tinning of the soldering iron tip and, accordingly, the removal of solder).

After you have cleaned the soldering iron tip, turn it on and when it warms up to the melting temperature of the solder, lightly process the soldering iron tip with a file until a shine appears on the working part of the tip, and immediately after that touch the tip of the tip to the flux and solder.

There should be some solder left on the tip of the soldering iron tip; then you just need to rub the tip of the soldering iron tip with the working surface on a prepared wooden block. After this, the soldering iron can be considered prepared for further work. During operation, to keep the soldering iron tip clean, from time to time wipe the soldering iron tip with a cloth folded in several layers.

Before soldering the radio component, it should be prepared. Using narrow pliers or tweezers, bend the leads of the part so that they fit into the holes of the board ( this is called forming the leads of radio elements ).

It is useful to have a special device for molding the leads of parts to certain distances between the mounting holes. Insert the part into the holes on the board. At the same time, ensure the correct placement (polarity - if any) of parts, for example, diodes or electrolytic capacitors.

After this, slightly spread the leads on the opposite side of the board so that the part does not fall out of its seat. The conclusions should not be spread too far apart.

Let's start soldering!

To properly solder the element, place the soldering iron tip between the terminal and the board, as shown in the figure, and heat the soldering area. The heating time should be no more than 3-5 seconds so as not to damage the part or board.

After 1-2 seconds, bring the solder to the soldering area. When solder touches the soldering iron tip, flux may splatter. After the required amount of solder has melted, move the wire away from the soldering area. Hold the soldering iron tip against the soldering area for a second to ensure the solder is evenly distributed across the soldering area. After this, without moving the part, remove the soldering iron. Without moving the part, wait a few moments until the soldering area has completely cooled down.

Now you can cut off the excess leads using side cutters. When doing this, be careful not to damage the soldering area.

Criteria for high-quality soldering!

• A high-quality solder joint connects the pad and the lead of the part and has a smooth and shiny surface.
• If the solder joint is spherical or connected to adjacent pads, heat the solder joint until the solder melts and remove excess solder. There is always a small amount of solder left on the soldering iron tip.
• If the soldering area has a matte surface and looks scratched, then it is called “cold soldering”. Heat it until the solder melts and let it cool without moving the parts. Add a little solder if necessary. After this, you can remove any remaining flux from the board using a suitable solvent. This operation is optional - the flux can remain on the board. It does not interfere and in no way affects the functioning of the circuit (for the aesthetics of the appearance of the board, it is better, of course, to remove the remaining flux).

Various soldering methods

How to solder correctly? The paragraphs below should answer this question. They are intended for beginner radio amateurs looking for more than just theoretical knowledge.

Soldering loose wires

Let's get started with practice from the very first example. It is necessary to connect the LED with a limiting resistance and solder the power cable to them. There are no mounting pins, plates or other accessories used here. The following operations must be performed:1. Strip the insulation from the ends of the wire. The thin copper conductors are absolutely clean because they have been protected from oxygen and moisture by insulation.

2. Twist the individual wires of the core. This way you can prevent their subsequent fraying.

3. Tinning the ends of the wires is very important for proper soldering. During tinning, the heated tip of the soldering iron must be brought to the wire simultaneously with the solder. The wire must be heated well so that the solder is evenly distributed over the surface of the bundle. Light rubbing with the tip helps distribute the solder along the entire length of the tinning plate.

4. Shorten the leads of the LED and resistor and also tin them. Although the leads were tinned during the manufacture of radioelements, a thin layer of oxides could form on them during storage. After tinning, the surface will be clean again. If very old radio components are used, soldered from any boards, they are usually heavily oxidized. The leads of such parts must be cleaned of oxides before tinning, for example, by scraping them with a knife.
5.

While holding the leads to be connected parallel to each other, apply a small amount of melted solder to them. The soldering area should warm up quickly, and the solder consumption should be 2-3 mm (with a diameter of 1.5 mm). As soon as the solder evenly fills the gaps between the connected leads, you need to quickly remove the soldering iron. The soldering area must be left undisturbed until the solder has completely hardened.

If the parts move earlier, microcracks will form in the soldering, reducing the mechanical and electrical properties of the connection.

A little theory

Soldering is the joining of metals using another, more fusible metal. In electronics, as a rule, they use solder containing 60% tin and 40% lead (POS - 40, POS - 60), as you yourself guessed, the numbers in the solder type designation indicate the percentage of tin in the solder.

This alloy melts already at 180 degrees Celsius. Modern solders used in soldering electronic circuits are produced in the form of thin tubes filled with a special resin (rosin), which acts as a flux. The heated solder creates an internal bond with metals such as copper, brass, silver, etc.

, if the following conditions are met:

• The surfaces of the parts to be soldered must be cleaned, that is, the oxide films formed over time must be removed from them.
• The part at the soldering site must be heated to a temperature exceeding the melting point of the solder. Certain difficulties arise in the case of large surfaces with good thermal conductivity, since the power of the soldering iron may not be enough to heat it.
• During the soldering process, the soldering area must be protected from exposure to atmospheric oxygen. This task is performed by flux (rosin), which forms a protective film over the soldering material. Flux is contained in the solder in the form of a thin core. When solder melts, it is distributed over the surface of the liquid metal.

Typical beginner mistakes and methods for correcting them

• Novice installers only touch the soldering area with the tip of the soldering iron tip. In this case, not enough heat is supplied. An experienced installer has a sense of optimal heat transfer. He places the soldering iron tip in such a way that the largest possible contact area is formed between it and the soldering point. In addition, he very quickly introduces a little solder between the tip and the part as a heat conductor.
• Novice installers melt a little solder and, with some delay, bring it to the desired location. In this case, part of the flux evaporates, the solder does not have a protective layer and an oxide film forms on it. A professional, on the contrary, always touches the soldering area with both a soldering iron and solder. In this case, the soldering area is enveloped in a drop of pure melt before the flux has time to evaporate.
• Novice installers are often unsure whether the solder area is overheated. They move the soldering iron tip away from the soldering point too early, then they are forced to bring it back in for heating, move it back again, etc. The result is a gray soldering joint with uneven boundaries, since the parts being joined were not heated hot enough, and the process itself took too long and the rosin had time to evaporate. The master, on the contrary, heats the soldering area quickly and intensely and completes the process abruptly and completely. He rewards himself with a smooth, silvery solder surface.

Once you learn how to solder, you can buy a soldering iron with temperature control on Aliexpress; we have made a selection of popular models in a separate article.

    Material from the site lessonradio.narod.ru revised and expanded.

SOLDERING BASICS Link to main publication

Source: https://www.radioingener.ru/osnovy-pajki/

How to learn to solder: step-by-step instructions, features and recommendations from professionals

A soldering iron is considered one of the most common tools that can be found in any owner’s home. It is not necessary to be a specialist and do soldering professionally. But every representative of the stronger sex must have general fundamental knowledge. Breaks in wires in electrical appliances, contacts in sockets, headphones, repairing circuit boards are frequent phenomena, when faced with which a person wants to learn how to learn to solder.

What is a soldering iron?

This is a special heat-emitting device with a power of 15 to 40 W, sufficient for soldering wires, circuit boards and microcircuits. There are soldering irons with higher power.

They are intended for small soldering - for resoldering poorly connected thick-diameter wires or for unsoldering XLR connectors.

The function of the heating element in soldering irons is performed by a nichrome wire, which is wound around a tube containing a “tip” - the working surface of the device. The tip is a copper rod that is heated by a nichrome wire.

The soldering iron uses copper because this metal has high thermal conductivity. Heat is supplied to the wire by electric current. The soldering iron device contains an insulator, which is mica. For safety reasons, it prevents the wires from contacting the metal tube and soldering iron casing.

Learning to solder correctly is easy, but only if you choose the right tool. Among the wide variety of these devices, an amateur craftsman who decides to start repairing office equipment should choose an acoustic soldering iron, which is small in size and has good performance. It has a low heat capacity, which is desirable for fine soldering work when assembling microcircuits.

It is better for a novice master to opt for a device whose power does not exceed 40 W. It is important that the soldering iron is also not weaker than 15 W, since the power in such a product will not be enough even to connect simple wires of office equipment. It is preferable to buy a tool with a three-way grounding plug.

Its presence will prevent possible voltage dissipation during the movement of electric current to the metal tube.

An industrial soldering iron is suitable for connecting calibration wires, chassis and stained glass work.

Which sting is better?

The working parts of soldering irons, depending on the size, are of two types:

• ordinary, the diameter of which is 0.5 cm;
• miniature with a diameter of 0.2 cm, used for soldering very thin wires and copper parts.

The working parts of soldering irons can have the shape of a needle, cone and blade. The last form is the most common, as it makes it possible to scoop out the required amount of solder. In addition, for ease of soldering, the tip can be straight or curved.

The soldering procedure involves joining two metal elements using a third one (solder). In this case, the melting temperature of the connected parts must be higher than that of the third element, which, in the molten state, penetrates into the spaces of the connected parts, as well as into their structure, providing a mechanical connection. At the same time, an electrical contact appears between the parts being connected.

What do you need for work?

The soldering procedure is not complicated. The question of how to learn to solder from scratch is easily resolved. To do this, just acquire the necessary material and, following the instructions, start training.

Where can I learn to solder?

You can train at home by soldering ordinary electrical wires. The main thing is to follow the safety instructions.

The work may require:

• soldering iron (according to professionals, to work with small wires in electronics and radio engineering, a tool with a power of 20-40 W will be sufficient);
• pliers;
• knife;
• scissors;
• set of files;
• sandpaper;
• insulating tape;
• rosin;
• solder.

The question “how to learn to solder” will be resolved after several training sessions. The beginner will gain confidence and experience. Step-by-step soldering instructions can help him with this.

Where to begin?

• Preparing the sting. To do this, using pliers and needle files, you need to clean the working part of the soldering iron. The tip should have an angle of 30-45 degrees. If the tip is damaged, it must be sharpened again to the required shape. After this, the tip is tinning - the heated soldering iron should be dipped first in rosin, and then in solder.
• For safety reasons, it is necessary to prepare a pad for the soldering iron. This is due to the fact that the device heats up to a temperature of more than 300 degrees and operates under high electrical voltage. It is important to optimize your workplace when using a soldering iron. It is advisable that a piece of textolite or plywood be used as a lining. Special trays for solder and rosin are also required.
• Cleaning the surfaces of metals to be joined under solder. To do this you will need sandpaper, solvent or soldering acid. It is important that there are no remaining oils, greases or other contaminants on the surfaces on which solder will be applied.

Sequence of work

How to learn to solder correctly will become clear if you follow the step-by-step instructions. Necessary:

• Place the soldering iron on the stand and plug it into the mains.
• Dip in rosin. This is done 5-7 minutes after connecting to the outlet. The purpose of this procedure is to check the heating temperature of the tip and get rid of scale. The soldering iron is considered ready for use if the rosin boils and melts. If it only softens, then the sting is not warmed up enough. When the soldering iron overheats, the rosin hisses and spatters. In this case, the device needs to cool down a little.
• Treat surfaces with tinning. The joints of metal products are covered with molten solder.
• Press the tinned surfaces together. Apply a new portion of solder in the places where they are combined with a soldering iron. The joined parts must be pressed until the solder cools and hardens.

Solder Use

Successful soldering is possible with skillful selection of the necessary solder - an alloy of tin and lead. The most common types of solder are POS-40 and POS-60. They are characterized by a low melting point (183 degrees) and are used in most soldering jobs to connect steel elements. This standard solder is in the form of a wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm, which is very convenient for working with microcircuits.

To solder aluminum parts, it is advisable to purchase special aluminum solder. During operation, it is important to remember that, when heated, tin-lead compounds emit gases that are very harmful to humans. Therefore, it is recommended to work with them in a well-ventilated area using special respirators, gloves and safety glasses.

How to learn to solder wires?

So how do you connect the wires? The operating sequence is standard for all types of soldering. The connected ends of the wires are tinned. But for reliable fastening, it is recommended to twist them tightly together. During the procedure, the soldering iron tip is directed to the joints with one hand, and solder wire is brought to this place with the other.

In some cases, twisting the wires is not possible. Then the ends of the wires to be connected must be laid parallel to each other and compressed with pliers. The work is performed with one hand, the second one directs the soldering iron tip with solder to the joint. Holding the ends of the wire should be done after removing the soldering iron tip from the soldering area.

Sometimes there is a need to connect the end of one wire to the middle of another. Twisting in this case is done by twisting the end of the wire around another to which it is attached.

It must be remembered that butt soldering of wires is not possible, since its reliability depends on the strength of the mechanical connection.

The question of how to learn to solder wires is one of the most pressing among Internet users. Having mastered the technique of splicing and soldering, craftsmen have the opportunity to independently, without the help of specialists, perform a number of the following tasks:

• seamless heating equipment;
• electric guitar cord extension;
• connecting a USB cable to an antenna, etc.

What is heat shrink?

When splicing wires, professionals recommend using special heat-shrinkable tubes. Their diameter must be twice that of the wire. The tube is placed on one end of the wire. After mechanically interlocking with another wire and soldering, the heat shrink is dragged to the place where they are connected.

It should be positioned so that 1 cm remains at each end of the seam. After this, soldering is performed again. The heat shrink should evenly cover and heat the wire connection.

As a result of exposure of the tube to high temperatures, it is sealed, providing reliable insulation in the connection area, as well as strong mechanical adhesion.

How to learn to solder boards?

Before starting complex soldering, for example, working with diode strips, experts recommend that novice craftsmen acquire inexpensive budget boards. After practicing on them and mastering standard soldering techniques, after some time the beginner will learn how to solder microcircuits.

This type of soldering consists of successive steps:

• Preparatory. Before starting work, you need to ensure a strong connection and reduce resistance. For this purpose, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned of grease and dust. For degreasing, you can use napkins and soap solution. Acetone is used when you need to clean the surface of a circuit to a shine. Methyl hydrate is recommended as a safer solvent. It is as effective as acetone, but has a less pungent odor.
• Placement of board parts to be soldered. Before you learn how to solder circuits, you need to know the locations of all its elements. Flat parts must be soldered first. These are a resistor and a varistor. Then they move on to the capacitor, transistor, transformer, microphone and potentiometer. This sequence guarantees the safety of temperature-sensitive board elements.
• Heating the joint to improve the thermal conductivity of the metal. The soldering iron tip must be pressed against the circuit components for a few seconds. It is important to prevent it from overheating. This will be indicated by bubbles appearing on the surface. In this case, the soldering iron must be removed from the soldering area.
• Solder application. This is carried out until a slight elevation appears on the diagram.
• Removal of surplus. Performed after the solder has hardened and cooled. It is recommended not to rush, but to give the circuit some time to cool down. This is important because the connections made may be damaged and the work will have to be done again.

Every man should learn how to solder circuits. This will make it possible to repair plugs, modems, etc. yourself.

Soldering as a process is not limited to working with copper wires and microcircuits. Having mastered the ability to use a soldering iron on wires, you can move on to subsequent, more complex operations using various solders and various metals.

Source: https://FB.ru/article/253821/kak-nauchitsya-payat-poshagovaya-instruktsiya-osobennosti-i-rekomendatsii-professionalov

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron - working with a soldering iron and its features

The soldering process itself is not complicated - we prepare the parts, treat them with flux, heat them up, and add solder in the soldering area. But, as in any business, there are some nuances that you need to know in order to get a quality result.

What is the soldering process?

Soldering is performed when two parts need to be joined.

Before the process, it is necessary to prepare the components: clean them from dirt and remove the oxide film at the soldering site, since the presence of even slight dirt or oxidation will prevent reliable joining of the materials.

When choosing solder, you need to be guided by the rule - the melting temperature of the solder should be lower than the melting temperature of the elements that are planned to be connected.

Procedure for soldering technology:

The surfaces of the parts must be cleaned of dirt, rust, oxide film, etc., so that the base metal shines. To remove oxidation and prevent it in the future, it is necessary to coat the parts at the joint with flux. You can apply it with a brush in a thin layer.

An alternative to the second step is a processing option called tinning. Mainly used for processing wires. The stripped wire is placed on rosin, heated with a soldering iron, the wire must be turned so that it is all in the molten rosin, then a thin layer of molten solder is applied, which chemically connects with the base metal (you can take a drop of solder directly with a soldering iron and apply it to the part).

The parts are connected mechanically: for example, when working with wires, you need to twist them; The output elements on the board are fixed with plasticine, wax or hot glue; other parts can be clamped with pliers or a vice.

Additional flux is applied to avoid oxidation when heated. Solder is applied with a heated soldering iron.

For ease of understanding, we attach photo instructions on how to solder correctly.

Types of soldering irons

In everyday life, networked soldering irons operating on a voltage of 220 V are common.

Professionals prefer soldering stations. Their main advantage is the presence of a thermostat, thanks to which the set temperature is stably ensured.

In the case of network soldering irons, the temperature is determined by the rosin or flux; when the soldering iron is ready for use, they begin to boil well, but should not be allowed to burn.

For home use, you can purchase two soldering irons with low (40-60 W) and medium power (100 W). A low-power soldering iron is designed for soldering parts in electronics.

Flux

This is a mixture for removing oxidation from metal parts before the soldering process. Flux treatment allows the solder to better spread over the joint and protect it from corrosion when heated. Flux can be found in the form of liquid, paste and powder. It is, of course, more convenient to apply liquid flux.

Fluxes can be rosin, ammonia, boric and orthophosphoric acids, and regular aspirin tablets.

It is easy to find flux on sale for any type of work, and as a rule, the label already indicates how and for what materials to use it. This allows you not to engage in amateur activities, but to use an already prepared mixture, which will avoid surprises in the form of soot.

Rosin is a popular flux, has a pleasant odor when heated, and is non-toxic. How to solder with a soldering iron with rosin: you can immediately take the liquid version of rosin, it is more convenient. If we are dealing with solid rosin, then first you need to melt it with a soldering iron and apply it to the soldering site with a tip.

Rosin is suitable for soldering copper conductors, radio and electrical elements, and behaves well with gold and silver. Residues of rosin after soldering must be removed to prevent metal corrosion.

Alcohol-rosin flux (abbreviated SKF) is rosin with alcohol in proportions of one to three. It is used in the same cases as regular rosin. Easier to use due to its liquid state.

Solder

Solder has a lower melting point than the material of the elements being joined, so when hot it envelops the joint, and after cooling the two parts become one. At what temperature to solder depends on the chemical composition of the parts and the selected solder.

Alloys used as solders:

• tin+lead
• copper
• cadmium
• nickel
• silver, etc.

Lead-tin solders PIC are most often found on the market. The abbreviation PIC is followed by a numerical value that indicates the amount of tin. The higher it is, the more tin, which has a positive effect on the strength and electrical conductivity of the future connection.

This tip will help you figure out how to solder with tin correctly; rosin is usually chosen as the flux (the most convenient option is tin wire, which already has rosin inside).

Lead serves as a regulator of the solidification process, since tin without this auxiliary element will crack and become covered with needles. Lead can be replaced by indium or zinc (lead-free solders).

For aluminum, you will need to choose specialized flux (F-61A, F-34A) and solder (there are different options).

Soldering iron tips

Almost all tips are made of copper, available with or without coating. Chrome-plated and nickel-plated tips are more heat-resistant, durable and not subject to oxidation.

Uncoated tips require constant cleaning, since when they oxidize they stop working efficiently (the solder does not stick). And during cleaning, the tip wears off quite quickly.

The choice of tip shape depends on the task at hand, but the awl and spatula shapes are considered universal.

Shutdown

After working with the soldering iron is completed, you need to clear the solder tip, and you can turn off the soldering iron. The hot tip needs to be inserted into the solid rosin and wait for it to cool, remove the tip, the excess rosin will drain and the soldering iron, which has now completely cooled, can be put back in place.

Armed with good theoretical knowledge of how to solder correctly with a soldering iron, in practice you can achieve success in this matter.

Photo tips on how to solder correctly with a soldering iron

We also recommend viewing:

Help the site, share on social networks

Source: https://instrumentgid.ru/kak-pravilno-payat-payalnikom/