How to choose a soldering iron once for many years
A soldering iron is almost the main tool for a radio amateur, and here you need to know which soldering iron is best suited for solving certain problems.
First, let's look at the types of soldering irons and their power, and then we'll talk about fluxes.
1. Types of soldering irons
Soldering irons come with a ceramic or spiral heater. The difference is that ceramics heats up much faster, but requires more careful use: a strong blow will cause such a soldering iron to fail. Spiral is not afraid of impacts, and it will last for many years.
When choosing a soldering iron, you need to pay attention to its power. It is necessary to take into account that if you are soldering microcircuits, then it is advisable to choose a soldering iron with a nominal value of 10-20. Soldering irons rated above 60 W are designed for soldering thick wires.
A soldering iron with low power simply will not be able to melt the solder, since the power will be dissipated over a large soldering area. For soldering large metal parts, there are soldering irons from 100 watts and above. The most optimal soldering iron for a beginner is 25-40 W.
This soldering iron is considered universal, and it can perform most tasks. Typically, radio amateurs have several soldering irons in their arsenal to cover a wide range of jobs.
2. Soldering iron tip
Pay attention to the soldering iron tip. It comes in copper or nickel plated. A copper tip is better suited for soldering, as copper has high thermal conductivity. It can be cleaned with sandpaper or a file, but such a tip burns very quickly.
Nickel is used in conjunction with a soldering iron, which has a temperature control, but its disadvantage is that the tip of this type cannot be cleaned with either a file or sandpaper.
After this treatment, the solder will no longer stick to the soldering iron. Quite a lot of people do not know about this feature of nickel tips, and after cleaning such a tip, soldering work turns into hell.
The tip is a replaceable element with various types of fastening. Some soldering irons have a cap that is screwed on to secure the tip, while others have the tip secured with a screw.
The sting has a different shape. The soldering iron is sold with a universal tip already installed. They can do most jobs. There are stings as thin as a needle. They are intended for jewelry work involving soldering SMD components and are not capable of performing other tasks. Wide tips are designed for quick heating of the entire part and convenient installation/disassembly of the component.
3. Temperature adjustment
There are soldering irons with manual temperature control on the handle itself. This is an excellent thing for a radio amateur, since without this function there is always a chance of accidentally burning or overheating one or another component.
If you overheat a radio component, it will lose its original properties and will work unstably, or even fail altogether. The tip of a soldering iron tends to burn out during prolonged use.
If your soldering iron does not have temperature control, be prepared to buy a new tip often. However, the disadvantages of such soldering irons include the inconvenient location of the handle adjustment and the not very reliable design.
In addition to the soldering iron, you can purchase a hot air soldering station. This is a powerful tool in the hands of a radio amateur. This tool is equipped with temperature settings accurate to one degree. The soldering station has a convenient stand.
Using such a device, you can solder not only small radio components, but also desolder entire microcircuits from boards using hot air. Soldering stations can significantly speed up your work. But to solder with such a station, experience is required.
For beginners, there is no need for a soldering station at first. A simple soldering iron is enough to learn soldering skills. But once you get comfortable and confidently hold a soldering iron in your hand, you can think about more expensive equipment.
5. Fluxes: the basis for soldering in radio electronics
As a rule, a radio amateur has many different chemicals in his arsenal, which allows him to create the highest quality and reliable solder.
Fluxes are special chemicals intended for radio installation. It allows you to remove oxide films and allows the solder to spread evenly. Fluxes are divided into several types: neutral, active and anti-corrosion.
Neutral are the most popular, simple and safe fluxes. They do not contain acids or other aggressive elements that cause corrosion of metals, and generally do not require rinsing.
Rosin, the cheapest type of flux, is a must-have for every radio amateur. It protects the surface from oxides and prevents corrosion. We can say that this is a universal type of flux.
LTI 120 is a liquid flux, classified as neutral. It contains no acids, which means it will not corrode metal. The basis of its composition is rosin dissolved in alcohol. LTI-120 is easy to use: you just need to apply a layer of flux to the surface to be soldered, and then solder the desired element to the board.
On sale you can also find gel fluxes based on rosin. They are very convenient for soldering when you only need to apply a small amount of flux to a specific area. Flux-Plus is the most common type of flux on the radio market.
Its cost is quite high - about 500 rubles , but to be honest, it fully justifies its price. If you repair cell phones and other microelectronics, then it will be indispensable in your work.
Typically, neutral fluxes do not require rinsing, however, many hams prefer to rinse off any flux after use.
5.2. Active fluxes
Active (also called acid) fluxes contain hydrochloric, phosphoric or citric acid. After using them, it is necessary to wash the part, since flux residues will cause corrosion and corrode the soldering. These fluxes mainly remove aggressive substances from soldered parts.
The most popular flux of this type is soldering acid. It can be used to solder, for example, nickel alloys.
F38N is used for soldering resistant corrosion steel, various copper alloys, bronze, nichrome and brass. Residues of F38N can be easily washed off with water.
5.3. Other types
There are also anti-corrosion fluxes consisting of phosphoric acid. They do not cause corrosion of ferrous metals, which means there is no need to remove flux residues after soldering.
For non-ferrous metals, rinsing with warm water is recommended. In addition to water, fluxes can be washed off with acetone, nephrase, ethyl or isopropyl alcohol. All of these products are suitable for cleaning printed circuit boards.
There are also solder pastes, which are a mixture of flux and solder. It happens that such pasta is made independently. You just need to use a file to make shavings from solder and mix it with liquid fluxes.
This paste can be applied to the part and then warmed up the soldering iron. It can be used when soldering surface-mounted installations or used in hard-to-reach places on the board.
Source: https://ArduinoPlus.ru/kak-vybrat-payalnik/
How to choose a soldering station?
Radio electronics for beginners
Having mastered soldering with a regular soldering iron with a copper tip, a novice electronics enthusiast thinks about purchasing more modern equipment - a soldering station.
How to choose? After all, the choice is simply amazing. I’ll tell you what criteria I used to choose a hobby-class station for myself.
If you browse online stores and read descriptions of soldering stations, you will notice that many indicate the type of heating element - ceramic . But this is not entirely correct. Oddly enough, high-quality ceramic (Japanese type Hakko-1321) and nichrome heaters (Taiwanese) also fit this description. The nichrome spiral is also sealed in ceramic, but unlike the Hakko-1321 heaters, their design and characteristics are completely different.
Nichrome heater device
A nichrome heater is made like this. A ceramic rod is taken and a spiral of high-resistance nichrome wire is wound onto it towards the end of the support rod. The winding width is about 2 cm. There is also a thermocouple pressed into the support rod - it is located at the end of the support rod. Then this entire structure is also sealed in ceramic. The result is a ceramic heater made of nichrome with a thermocouple. These usually have the inscription TAIWAN (Taiwan).
Flaws:
- It takes a few minutes to warm up;
- With intensive use, a nichrome heater burns out on average in six months. If you do not solder often, then a soldering iron with a nichrome heater can last 4 or 5 years
- Using a thermocouple as a temperature sensor reduces the accuracy of setting the tip temperature.
Nichrome heaters are found in such soldering stations as Lukey 702, Lukey 898, Lukey 852D+FAN. The advantage of these stations is that they are digital.
How are high-quality ceramic heaters made?
A high-quality ceramic heater consists of a support rod, onto which a thin layer of resistive substance and a thin-film thermistor are applied. Next, all this is baked into a ceramic shell at high temperature. The surface of the heater is smooth to the touch, and an ornate pattern is visible through the light - a thin-film layer of the heater and thermistor.
Flaws:
- Sensitive to temperature imbalance (this is when it heats up unevenly);
- When cracks form, it fails;
- Costs more than a nichrome heater (2 - 4 times);
As far as I know, high-quality Japanese heaters HAKKO 1321 are found in soldering stations Lukey 936D (I have one myself), Lukey 936+, Lukey 936D+, Lukey 852D+, Lukey 868, Lukey 853, Lukey 853D. Better check before purchasing! Read on to find out how to do this.
What's better than nichrome?
- Fast heating. I consider one of the undeniable advantages of ceramic heaters to be fast heating when turned on - a few seconds! In fact, 10 - 30 seconds and you can already solder. For those who have previously soldered only with regular EPSN, this is a shock;
- Durability. Compared to nichrome heaters, it has a longer service life;
- A precision thermistor measures the temperature of the tip more accurately;
- High power and good heat dissipation.
It is quite difficult for an ignorant person to distinguish a high-quality ceramic heater from a nichrome one. Outwardly, they look the same, since their base is ceramic.
How to determine what is in front of you: ceramics or nichrome?
The heater with a nichrome spiral has a kind of “droplet” at the end - it’s sort of rounded.
A ceramic heater has a characteristic “step” at the end. Ceramic heaters also have a built-in precision thin-film thermistor - a temperature sensor. The pattern in ceramics from the temperature sensor and heater is visible even to the naked eye. Take a look.
To be completely sure, turn on the soldering iron and evaluate the heating rate of the tip. If it takes a long time to warm up, then it is nichrome.
In my Lukey 936D I found a ceramic heater HAKKO 1321 (A1321) - there is a corresponding inscription on the heater.
Even when I was choosing it in the store, I noticed this. But on the cheaper Lukey 936A (it does not have a digital indicator), I found a nichrome heater with a drop on the end and the inscription TAIWAN (Taiwan). Therefore, I did not buy it. I really don’t like it when the soldering iron takes a long time to warm up.
not A station already has a Hakko-1321 ceramic heater, not nichrome. There is such a small difference in the name, but what a difference in price and quality.
And here is the heating element of the A-BF GS90D 90 W soldering station. It is also ceramic, with a step.
If you look closely, you can find the inscription A1329 DC and “patterns” on the case.
This soldering station looks like a regular soldering iron without a separate unit. Despite this, this soldering iron is a true temperature-controlled soldering station. True, without galvanic isolation - naturally, there is no transformer in it
Tip temperature control (thermostat)
A good soldering station has a heater with a temperature sensor and, through feedback, maintains the tip temperature set by the operator. If you pick up a soldering iron from the same Lukey 936D, you will find that the ceramic heater has 4 leads, two red ones go to the heater spiral, and two blue leads come from a thin-film thermistor.
Having measured the resistance on pairs of these terminals, I received the following data (room t0):
- Heater - 3.3 Ω (Ohm);
- Thermistor - 50~51 Ω (Ohm).
Conclusion: yes, this is real ceramics.
Obvious fakes have a heater with 2 terminals. Here is a simple soldering iron without thermal stabilization.
- In digital soldering stations, temperature control is carried out by a microcontroller. The signal from the temperature sensor in the heater is digitized and compared with the value set by the operator. The advantage of digital control is accuracy. All digital soldering stations have buttons to set the temperature. Less often - an encoder. For example, Lukey 702 has a nichrome heater, but digital control. Therefore, it has earned respect among radio amateurs.
- In analog soldering stations, a comparator is used to maintain a given temperature, for example, based on the LM358 (HA17358) chip, and a regular variable resistor is used as a temperature setter. Such stations include Lukey 936D. I took it apart personally and was convinced of this. Analog temperature control is worse, since additional error is introduced by mechanical elements (variable resistor), resistance of the temperature sensor contacts, connector contacts, and changes in the parameters of the elements. Some analog station models require calibration before use.
It is worth distinguishing between power regulation and thermal stabilization. Perhaps someone has already made a so-called soldering iron tip temperature controller. Its simplest circuits simply reduce the power supplied to the soldering iron heater and do not have temperature feedback. By reducing the power, the temperature of the tip can also be reduced.
Such attachments were used mainly for electric soldering irons with a copper tip. When idle, the tip of such a soldering iron gets very hot and burns out. To somehow reduce this effect, power adjustment was used. If you greatly reduce the power, the heat capacity of the tip may not be enough and the solder will stick. Soldering will be difficult.
Soldering irons with thermal stabilization monitor precisely the temperature of the tip (feedback). Cooled down - more power, overheated - less.
A very important parameter. First you need to imagine why you need a soldering station. You can also solder buckets :). For soldering electronic components, a 40-60W soldering station is sufficient, but it is better to have a more powerful one. For myself, in addition to Lukey 936D (heater A1321 at 50W , 24V), I also purchased A-BF GS90D (heater A1329 at 90W , 220V). I wanted to buy a 110 W model - model A-BF GS110D, but 900L tips are desirable for it, although 900M are also suitable.
As you can see, both stations have heating elements with different operating voltages. The 936 has low voltage (24V), and the A-BF GS90D has high voltage (220V). If safety comes first, then it is better to use a soldering station with a low-voltage heater. So, for example, as far as I know, previously in children's amateur radio clubs it was forbidden to use 220V soldering irons; it was only allowed to solder with low-voltage 36V ones.
Also, when repairing sensitive equipment, such as mobile phones, it is better to use a station with a low-voltage soldering iron. Here you have galvanic isolation from the electrical network through a transformer, and grounding of the tip. It will be extremely difficult to kill an element with static.
Replaceable tips
When choosing a soldering station, you should think about how accessible replacement tips are for a given soldering iron model. The most common are the 900M series tips. Here they are in the photo.
I advise you to buy at least one more tip for the soldering station. The original tip, as a rule, is not running - it is cone-shaped.
If you are not going to smoke with a soldering iron every day, then you can buy 900M copper tips. They are much cheaper, but they burn out pretty quickly. Copper dissolves in solder over time and the most that can be done with the tip is to sharpen it with a file. You can take copper tips of different profiles for testing and work with them. If someone really likes the work, then only then buy a high-quality, non-fading tip.
Anti-static electricity
You've probably already seen this inscription - ESD SAFE . An ordinary electric soldering iron has no protection against static electricity and electrical discharge. In addition, the copper rod perfectly transfers all electromagnetic surges from the electrical network to the soldered element, because a nichrome spiral is, in fact, an inductor.
In soldering stations, the essence of ESD SAFE comes down to the following. The fitting that secures the printed circuit board with the heater and the bushing that contacts the replaceable tip is grounded - connected to the third, grounding terminal of the power plug. This is not difficult to verify if you measure the resistance from the tip to the third terminal of the plug.
The trouble is that not every house has electrical wiring installed with grounding. So keep this in mind if you work with particularly tricky electronic components in the future.
The ceramic heater also acts as a protective “screen” from electromagnetic pulses. Ceramics are an excellent insulator.
Maintainability
This quality can be disputed, since now the price of hobby-level soldering stations is low and it is unlikely that anyone will repair a faulty one. But still. The main working part of soldering stations is the heating element. It can be easily changed if the original one fails. This trick will not work with ordinary soldering irons, since if the heating coil burns out, then such a soldering iron can be safely thrown away.
» Radio electronics for beginners » Current page
also be interested to know:
- Hot air soldering station.
- How to learn to solder?
Source: https://go-radio.ru/kak-vibrat-payalnyu-stantsiyu.html
How to choose a soldering iron for soldering radio components and microcircuits
Choosing a soldering iron for radio amateurs is a very important point, since it is a key device for every radio amateur. However, all soldering irons or soldering stations have differences and are selected by radio amateurs individually, depending on the type of intended work and personal preferences. We also recommend reading the article about soldering basics.
Soldering iron designs
By design they are:
- Traditional (straight rod design).
- Guns (design of a soldering iron in the shape of a gun on which the working part is located at an angle).
- Soldering stations (complex equipment with a working part and a control unit).
How to choose a soldering iron for soldering microcircuits
Before choosing a soldering iron, let's figure out what they are.
Gas ones are more often used for soldering during installation work, for example, soldering in distribution boxes. They are convenient because they can work autonomously, but during operation they emit harmful substances and working with them for a long time is harmful to the health of both you and others. But for soldering microcircuits or other radio components, it would not be wise to choose such a soldering iron. It is extremely difficult to solder any board with it.
Electric ones, in turn, are the most common. Depending on the type of heater they are divided into:
- Spiral (nichrome)
- Ceramic
- Pulse
- Induction
Spiral is the most common of all electric heaters. The spiral heater provides reliable and durable operation at an inexpensive price, but has one drawback - a long heating time.
Ceramic is more expensive and quite fragile, however, it needs less time to heat up.
Pulse, with its rather high price, will be the best option. It heats up quickly and will not become unusable from a small impact.
If you are going to take up soldering seriously, and the range of proposed work will increase, pay attention to soldering stations. Induction heats up due to the inductor coil. This soldering iron does not need a thermostat, but you will have to select the desired temperature by searching through the set of tips.
Selecting the power of the soldering iron
There are soldering irons of different capacities:
- Low-power (from 3 to 10 W.)
- Medium power (20-40 W)
- High power (60-100 W)
- Industrial (more than 100 W)
Depending on the power, the purpose of the soldering iron changes. Soldering irons with a power of more than 100 W are used for soldering large metal products such as radiators, pots, and pipes. Soldering irons with a power of 60-100 W are designed for soldering really thick wires.
Soldering irons up to 10 W are designed mainly for soldering simple microcircuits, SMD elements and other miniature radio components.
So, answering the question of how to choose a soldering iron for soldering radio components and microcircuits, a good option would be to choose a low-power soldering iron to avoid overheating of miniature radio components and SMD elements. However, if you are an experienced radio installer, the best option would be a 20-40 W pulse soldering iron, which in skillful hands can be used for quick work with miniature radio components and other work around the house.
Soldering iron for microcircuits: how to choose a tip?
Of course, an important factor when choosing any soldering iron is the tip. However, the choice of sting is purely an individual preference. Choose depending on which tip you are comfortable working with; there are only a few recommendations for choosing. It is not recommended to use a tip larger than 3 mm. It is advisable to use a copper tip, as it is easy to clean and process.
The copper tip with a layer of aluminum is not processed, but is slightly subject to burning. There are both regular and heat-resistant stings. Heat-resistant ones can more easily withstand long-term work and exposure to high temperatures. If you are a beginner, then a straight sting is the best option.
Moreover, an advantage to the soldering iron will be a set of tips of different shapes, the ability to replace the tip and adjust its length.
A good soldering iron for microcircuits should have a flexible power cord and double insulation. Also pay attention to the handle. It must be well protected from possible overheating, therefore, unlike ebonite and plastic, wooden handles are recommended.
They are less susceptible to heating, unlike plastic ones, and lighter than ebonite ones, that is, they are more suitable for long-term work. Also an important indicator will be the function of constant temperature support and a thermostat, so as not to burn out the components when soldering.
Soldering iron equipment will make the work and maintenance of the soldering iron easier: a soldering iron stand, a sponge for cleaning the tip.
conclusions
If you have not decided which soldering iron to buy for soldering microcircuits, to summarize, we will emphasize the main recommendations and requirements so that you understand which soldering iron is better for soldering microcircuits and other components when looking at stands and shop windows for radio amateurs.
For inexperienced radio amateurs, it is advisable to use low-power soldering irons from 3 to 10 W. It is possible to use soldering irons with average power of 20-40 W to work with microcircuits and radio components, but there is a high probability of damaging the component during installation or dismantling. The wire must be flexible, long and double insulated. The tip is selected individually depending on preferences and type of work.
It is advisable to buy a soldering iron with a wooden handle. The type of soldering iron heater depends on the funds allocated for the purchase and the type of intended work.
It is desirable that the purchased soldering iron has a function of constant temperature control, a temperature regulator, a set of tips, an adjustment of the length of the tip, the ability to replace the tip and an addition, such as a stand for the soldering iron, a storage case, a cleaning sponge, etc.
You can buy a soldering iron on the well-known site - Aliexpress; we have made a selection of popular models in a separate article.
Source: https://www.radioingener.ru/kak-vybrat-payalnik-dlya-pajki-radiodetalej-i-mikrosxem/
Which soldering iron should you choose for your home?
At home, there is often a need to solder wires and restore connections in circuits of household electrical appliances, not to mention radio amateurs who work with microcircuits. A soldering iron for home does not have to be a professional tool and it must be selected taking into account the purposes for which it will be used.
Often, people try to choose one tool that would be suitable for most soldering operations. Experts can say that there cannot be one ideal option, and this is true. When used at home, the requirements are not as high as for professional equipment.
Most people try to choose a simple, inexpensive option with sufficient power reserves. For home use, people make do with the simplest soldering irons they can find in a store.
If you approach this issue responsibly, study the basic rules of how to choose a soldering iron for your home, then the choice may be more rational.
Standard equipment
In most cases, models are supplied without any additional accessories. The soldering iron package contains only one soldering iron. Some professional models may include a special case and tool stand. But such things are rarely bought for home use.
Standard soldering iron configuration
Components of a soldering iron
Before choosing a soldering iron for your home, you should look at what it consists of. The main components include the following elements:
- The tip should be made of copper, since this material is easily cleaned of carbon deposits. It is easy to process and prepare. With a soldering iron, you can immediately purchase a set of tips that will be used to replace the existing one. The most convenient tip will be a straight shape.
- The rod must be made of durable materials. It should conduct heat well.
- Heater – simple models often use ordinary heaters that do not stand out in any way. Only in professional varieties can you find variety.
- The holder must be protected from possible overheating. The best solution is wooden holders, as they do not deteriorate from high temperatures. Ebony ones are heavy, and plastic ones overheat too quickly.
- Electrical Cord and Plug - The cord must have enough flexibility to adapt to operating conditions without breaking. It is better to take a collapsible fork, but an ordinary one is also suitable for home use.
Source: https://svarkaipayka.ru/oborudovanie/payalniki/kakoy-payalnik-vyibrat-dlya-doma.html
How to choose the right soldering iron and learn how to solder wires
Soldering is the primary method of electrical and mechanical joining of both parts and wiring. But despite the apparent simplicity of the process, soldering is quite complex and painstaking. That is why, before picking up a soldering iron, you need to have a good idea of what, why and, most importantly, how to solder wires.
Tools and accessories
Soldering, like any other technical process, involves the use of certain tools and accessories. You will need a few tools: a soldering iron, a knife, pliers, a file, sandpaper.
There are even fewer accessories - soldering flux and alcohol or gasoline are enough. Nevertheless, all of these are important components of the process and the choice of both must be taken extremely seriously.
Both the mechanical and electrical reliability of the soldered joint will depend on the quality of the soldering iron and the availability of the necessary accessories.
Selecting and preparing a soldering iron
This is perhaps the most crucial stage. A poorly chosen or improperly prepared tool will not produce high-quality soldering.
Power and type
The main criterion for choosing a soldering iron is its power. The industry produces instruments with power from 10 to 200 W and higher. The former can be the size of a fountain pen, the latter look like a natural hammer of impressive size.
Electric soldering irons with a power of 30 (left), 60 and 200 W.
All that remains is to decide which soldering iron to choose for soldering wires. Here everything will depend on the operation being performed, or more precisely, on the thickness and massiveness of the parts that need to be soldered. The more massive the parts, the greater the heat capacity the tool should have. An approximate dependence of the recommended soldering iron power on the task being performed can be presented in the following table:
- 15-25 W – small radio elements, microcircuits, conductors with a diameter of up to 0.3-0.5 mm;
- 30-40 W – large radio elements, wires with a diameter of up to 1 mm, including multi-core ones;
- 40-60 W – fairly large parts, conductors with a diameter of up to 2 mm;
- 100 W – massive parts, wires with a diameter of up to 3-4 mm;
- more than 100 W – power wiring with a diameter of more than 4 mm.
If you don’t have a soldering iron with the necessary characteristics at hand, you can take a slightly larger one in power, but not vice versa. With a massive device, it is possible to solder thin wires with a certain skill, but with a small and low-power thick one, it is almost never possible. Ideally, your household will have several electric soldering irons of varying power.
But what to do if there is no soldering iron of the required power or if it does not exist in nature at all? Trying to solder busbars into a pencil thick with a 100-watt soldering iron? In no case! In this situation, regular fire will help.
Place the parts prepared for soldering, for example, in the flame of a household gas burner or alcohol lamp and solder. Additional heating will help to perform high-quality soldering even with low-power tools.
The only thing is, when heating the wires over an open flame, do not overdo it - a little additional heating is enough.
Separately, it is worth noting the so-called “pistol” or pulse soldering irons, which were widely used, and even today are in service with craftsmen on the road.
A modern version of a pistol soldering iron.
At first glance, the advantages of such a device are obvious - it heats up instantly and cools down just as quickly. But this feature is convenient only for a narrow circle of specialists - on-call specialists. He came, took it out of the suitcase, poked it, put it in the suitcase, took the money and left. But anyone who has seriously worked with such soldering irons knows very well their shortcomings.
Source: https://pochini.guru/sovety-mastera/kak-payat-provoda
How many watts does a soldering iron need?
A soldering iron is as important in a home craftsman’s arsenal as a sewing needle is for a zealous housewife. He will help you repair a broken electrical appliance and extend the cable. Some people have it collecting dust in a drawer, removed only occasionally, while others use it regularly.
Is it worth replacing a soldering iron with a nichrome heater with a ceramic one, and a copper tip with a durable nickel-plated tip or “an old friend is better than two new ones”? Recommendations for choosing an electric soldering iron for the home craftsman.
The best manufacturers of electric soldering irons - which company to choose
The best tools are offered by manufacturers from Japan and Germany.
High quality, reliability, safety – all these requirements are met by the products of the following brands:
The tools of these brands can be used by professionals and amateur electronics engineers; with its help, even painstaking work on soldering SMD components can be performed efficiently.
The design of the soldering iron and the principle of its operation
The main elements included in the design of a classic soldering iron:
- Sting (rod);
- Heater;
- Holder;
- Electrical cord with plug.
After turning on the soldering iron, the heating element heats up and transfers heat to the rod, which is made of a material with high thermal conductivity. A hot tip, the temperature of which can reach 450 °C, melts solder based on tin-lead, copper-zinc and other alloys. Liquid solder flows into the gaps of the parts, and when cooled, it forms a strong, permanent connection.
Types of electric soldering irons
Soldering irons are divided according to their design and heating principle.
Nichrome soldering iron (EPSN)
In an electric soldering iron with a spiral heater (EPSN), the heating element is made of thin nichrome wire (nichrome is a nickel-based alloy with heat-resistant properties).
In the simplest models, turns of nichrome wire cover the body, inside of which the rod is placed. For electrical insulation of the heater, mica tubes and plates and fiberglass fabric are used.
Advantages:
- Affordable price;
- Unpretentious in work, not afraid of mechanical damage and shocks;
- Repairable.
Flaws:
- It takes a long time to warm up;
- Most models are not designed for intense loads - with regular use (several hours daily) they will not last long, since the spiral burns out over time.
Ceramic soldering iron
This type of soldering iron uses a ceramic heater, which is produced by only a limited number of brands. Unfortunately, most of the tools on the market that are marketed as “ceramic soldering irons” are actually nichrome soldering irons with a ceramic insulator.
Pseudo-ceramic heaters consist of a ceramic rod with a thermocouple, on which a nichrome spiral is mounted, the entire structure is covered with a ceramic tube. It can also be a ceramic tube with a nichrome thread inside.
The original heating element is a single tubular structure made of a film heater, ceramics and thermistors. Such a heater is integral - thermistors and thermal film are “imprinted” into the ceramics.
How to determine the authenticity of a product? The end of the “pseudo-ceramics” is rounded; four channels run inside the element – two with nichrome winding, two with thermocouple wiring. The structure is almost not visible in light.
The original element shows a film heater running through the thickness of the ceramic in the form of straight paths, and a thermistor looping in snakes.
The ceramic rod has a characteristic step at the end, and a narrow technological groove runs along the heater. These distinctive features are associated with the peculiarities of the technological process in the production of ceramic heaters.
Although, in pursuit of the opportunity to sell their products, unscrupulous manufacturers have learned to fake both the step and the groove.
The main competitive advantage that signals a fake is a low price.
Advantages:
- Fast heating;
- A quick-response control system maintains the set temperature even with intense heat dissipation from the tip;
- Significant power in small sizes;
- Long service life;
- Withstands intense loads without burning out.
Flaws:
- High price;
- Most of the proposed tools have a “pseudo-ceramic” heater;
- The tool requires careful handling; impacts and falls can cause the fragile heating element to break. Accidental contact of cold liquid with heated ceramics may cause it to crack;
- Possibility of using only “original” tips (it is advisable to choose a model with interchangeable attachments).
Pulse soldering iron
Unlike constant heating soldering irons, pulsed soldering irons heat up only when you press the start button. Pulse models are designed for a short cycle of work and are in demand when soldering is only a minor part of the work process.
The design of the soldering iron includes a frequency converter, a high-frequency transformer and a microprocessor control circuit. A copper wire tip, which is also a heating element, is attached to the current collectors of the secondary winding. The sting heats up the passing low voltage current. Recently, manufacturers have been offering pulse soldering irons not only with a copper wire heater tip, but also with a ceramic heater and a removable tip.
The shape of the pulse soldering iron resembles the letter “G”; this shape is due to the need to press a button during the working process.
Advantages:
- Fast heating;
- Increased efficiency due to the heating element operating only at the time of soldering;
- Ability to solder both small and massive parts.
Flaws:
- Cannot be used for long work cycles.
Induction soldering iron
Currently, an induction soldering iron is the pinnacle of technical achievements in the field of soldering metals with low-melting solders. This type differs from traditional soldering irons in the heating principle.
A high-frequency magnetic field is supplied to the working rod, which is generated by an induction coil. Inside the rod there is a core with ferromagnetic properties, which heats up and then transfers heat to the tip.
A constant temperature regime can be maintained in the traditional way (using a thermocouple or thermistor that is in contact with the tip), or by replacing a nozzle with a ferromagnetic core, which loses its ferromagnetic properties when it reaches a certain temperature and stops supplying energy.
Advantages:
- Automatic heating temperature maintenance eliminates the need to use temperature sensors;
- Energy saving - not the entire volume of the tip is heated, but the surface layer;
- Uniform heating of the tip due to the absence of a heating electrode (the tip is the heater);
- Easy to replace working tip.
Flaws:
- High price;
- As a rule, it is an integral part of the soldering station;
- For each operating temperature, a tip with a corresponding ferromagnetic core is required.
Wireless soldering irons
A tool with low power, battery-powered, used in cases where it is not possible to work with a conventional soldering iron: in the field, during a power outage.
Source: https://vi-pole.ru/skolko-vatt-nuzhno-dlja-pajalnika.html
Soldering iron how many watts is better
At home, there is often a need to solder wires and restore connections in circuits of household electrical appliances, not to mention radio amateurs who work with microcircuits. A soldering iron for home does not have to be a professional tool and it must be selected taking into account the purposes for which it will be used.
Often, people try to choose one tool that would be suitable for most soldering operations. Experts can say that there cannot be one ideal option, and this is true. When used at home, the requirements are not as high as for professional equipment.
Most people try to choose a simple, inexpensive option with sufficient power reserves. For home use, people make do with the simplest soldering irons they can find in a store.
If you approach this issue responsibly, study the basic rules of how to choose a soldering iron for your home, then the choice may be more rational.
Main characteristics of soldering irons
When deciding which soldering iron to choose for your home, it is worth understanding the characteristics of these devices. Each tool has its own parameters that affect its functionality. Here are the main features you should look for to buy the best soldering iron.
Power This is the main parameter that is worth paying attention to. The more powerful the soldering iron, the higher the temperature it can heat up to and the larger connections it can solder. Accordingly, for soldering pipes you will need a powerful product, while the lowest-power options of 5-10 W are suitable for working with microcircuits. Size The size depends on the power, since an increase in the size of the elements determines the possibility of heating to high temperatures. Small models tend to be low-power. Voltage Almost all models are suitable for standard sockets, but they still have their differences. The most common options are 220, 36, 12 and 6 Volt devices. The lower the voltage, the safer the device will be. Sometimes for low-voltage soldering irons you have to buy an additional step-down transformer, so the best option would be a 220 V model. Heating element Modern models use a mica or ceramic tube as a heater, which is twisted in a spiral. Ceramic heaters can also be found, but such models last less than their counterparts. Tip shape Even for home use, experts recommend buying options that have the ability to change the tip. Most often they buy simple models without changing the tip. The ability to change this element greatly simplifies the selection of the necessary procedures. Changing the tip helps you adapt to the desired operation without changing the soldering iron itself. Type of soldering iron The most popular and in demand are Electric, rod and pulse soldering irons. Electric models are great for home use.Top 5 best models of soldering irons for home
The best models for home should have an optimal ratio of parameters, versatility of use and affordable cost. This does not mean at all that they will be the best in all respects, since they are selected specifically for home use.
- Works W 100 W model with double insulated wire. The tip is coated with aluminum, which prolongs its life. Metal elements are made of stainless steel. This is one of the simplest and most popular models for home use.
- ZD 721C. The power of the device is 60 W. Model with a comfortable plastic handle and nichrome heater. The maximum heating temperature is 550 degrees Celsius.
- Mastertool 44-0006. This is a very convenient low power 30W model that comes with a stand. The soldering iron is designed to work with microcircuits, due to which it has a conical tip. A periodic type of heating is used here. There is an ergonomic pad at the grip points. The wire length is 1.2 meters.
- Sthor Model with a maximum power of 30 W. Designed to work with low-temperature solder, which is convenient for home use. Most often used to connect wiring. Despite its size, the soldering iron is suitable for soldering wide areas.
Source: https://MyTooling.ru/instrumenty/pajalnik-skolko-vatt-luchshe
Rules for choosing a soldering iron
A soldering iron is a necessary thing in the house, since quite often you need to solder wires or some small metal object. For a radio amateur, this tool will become indispensable when soldering circuits and repairing electronic devices.
Main types
Before choosing a soldering iron for your home, you need to understand what types there are and how they differ. This will help you figure out which model is best.
Traditional electric soldering irons with a nichrome spiral heater are practical and last a long time, but they take a relatively long time to warm up, and monitoring the temperature is not always convenient.
Modern models are equipped with thermostats. If you choose this option, it will simplify the work.
You can choose an electric soldering iron with a ceramic heater, which heats up much faster and produces more power. Its disadvantages include fragility.
The soldering iron should not be dropped or tapped on the edge of a table or stand to shake off the solder. A sharp temperature change and water getting on the tip are also undesirable.
They produce low-power cordless soldering irons (up to 15 W), which are worth choosing for working with small parts and microcircuits for short-term use.
Pulse soldering irons are shaped like a pistol and heat up when the trigger is pressed. They are quite convenient for soldering parts that are difficult to reach, and are equipped with backlighting.
Induction models for soldering are interesting, representing developments of a new generation. The heating in them is called smart; it occurs due to the action of vortex electromagnetic fields, and only the tip heats up, which is very economical. Induction soldering irons are usually connected to soldering stations.
If you need to solder copper pipes or high-temperature alloys, then it is better to choose a gas burner, since only it will provide the required heating.
For those who have mastered the skills of working with a conventional soldering iron and work a lot and often, it is advisable to purchase a soldering station. This is a professional device that can maintain a constant tip temperature and allows you to control the heating. They are often equipped with solder suction, replaceable tips, and a stand.
For working with microcircuits
Microcircuits require certain parameters from the tool. To make your work comfortable, you must comply with the following conditions:
- the power of the device must be within 40 W;
- Pay attention to the thickness of the tip. It should not exceed 2.5-3 mm;
- The ability to adjust the temperature is welcome.
It is very convenient to use infrared and hot air soldering stations. But they should be chosen only if professional work is to be done, since the cost of installations is higher than that of a conventional soldering iron.
For working with plastic pipes
A special soldering iron for plastic pipes is fundamentally different from a tool for metal. It should have a fairly rich set, which includes a variety of attachments. They can be made of plain or metallized Teflon (the latter is of higher quality).
The power of the device can be 1-2 kW. However, such a soldering iron is not always needed at home, so you can get by with a less powerful option. It is important to pay attention to the efficiency of the device, which is usually indicated on the packaging.
If you plan to work with not very large-scale parts, a model whose power does not exceed 680 W is suitable: such a device can cope with pipes with a diameter of up to 55 mm.
If you need to work with products 65-90 mm in diameter, it is better to purchase a more powerful 850 W soldering iron. For a pipe diameter of 100 mm or more, a model with a power greater than 1 kW is suitable.
How to choose the right one
When choosing a high-quality soldering iron for home use, you should pay attention to the following device parameters:
- heater type;
- power. For microcircuits, devices of 2.5-12 W are used, for working with household appliances - 20-40 W, for soldering thick wires or wires - 60-100 W, soldering large metal products, for example, car radiators, dishes, requires power no less 100 W. For household use, it is recommended to choose a soldering iron whose temperature can be adjusted, or buy two at once: one of medium power, the other of low power;
- pay attention to what voltage the device operates on;
- in the absence of electricity, a battery-powered model will be useful;
- The material and shape of the tip plays an important role. The most practical is a blade-shaped sting. The so-called eternal boots with a sting that is coated with a nickel alloy are in particular demand;
- the handle should not heat up, holding it in your hands should be pleasant and comfortable.
Please note that an electric soldering iron can heat up to 300 degrees or more; it cannot be placed on a table; special stands are used for this.
The size of the product plays an important role. If a hand soldering iron is too large and heavy, it will be inconvenient to work with, your hand will quickly get tired, and soldering small parts will become much more difficult.
A big plus is the presence of a power regulator, as it allows you to significantly increase the scope of application of the device. The power determines whether you will be able to solder certain parts or not.
Some models have a wide range of power adjustment, which allows them to be used as a universal duty tool.
Top best manufacturers
There are quite a lot of products from different companies, so choosing the best soldering iron is quite difficult. We have compiled a list of top companies whose products are distinguished by high quality, affordable prices, and versatility of use.
It is worth noting that the leading brands are usually German or Japanese. The products of the following companies are among the safest and highest quality:
- Hakko;
- Weller;
- Matrix;
- goot;
- Ersa.
The products of these brands are used not only at home, but are also often purchased by professionals. Using these tools, you can also perform quite complex work related to soldering SMD components.
You should not save money by buying cheap Chinese copies: they will not last long and will fail at the most unexpected moment.
Recommendations when choosing
The most convenient, versatile, but also expensive option is a soldering station; it is suitable if you work a lot and often and have some experience.
The station allows you to regulate the temperature of the tip, the power of the device, all the necessary small elements are already included in the set.
For a beginner who plans to use the tool at home, a low power model of up to 40 W is suitable; It is better to take one that allows you to regulate the temperature.
You don't have to buy an expensive tool. If you are only planning to learn how to use it, then it is better to take an affordable, simple model.
Gas models may be of interest not only to those who are going to work in places where there may be no electricity, but also to beginners, as they are quite easy to use. They are also suitable for working with refractory metals, in particular jewelry, and massive items.
The tip must be removable; the more shapes in the set, the better. The ability to solder various elements depends on the shape. For example, small parts cannot be soldered using a spatula, since it is too wide.
It doesn’t hurt to immediately purchase a soldering iron stand, as well as auxiliary tools, such as files, wire cutters, pliers, tweezers, a stationery knife, an awl and small needles.
When choosing a device, first of all you need to decide what kind of work you plan to do with its help, then choose the type of tool and its power.
Source: https://svaring.com/soldering/praktika/vybor-pajalnika
Soldering irons - how to choose the best one for your home? Power and types
There is no particular need to have this device as a tool at home today. If there is a breakdown of household appliances, cell phones, radio equipment, you can always turn to specialists, take the broken item to a service center, and not everyone understands complex electronics. The work requires skills and painstaking work when soldering small parts.
Soldering, of course, is a necessary and interesting activity; if you want to learn how to use the device correctly, you should familiarize yourself with the soldering iron more closely by reading detailed instructions about the types, the operating principle of the device, its purpose in everyday life and use in different spheres of human activity.
Soldering iron - what is it
An electric soldering iron is a hand-held device designed for fastening metal components together by soldering. Soldering materials for joining metals are tin, copper, lead, and nickel. When heated, the alloys turn into a liquid state and fill small voids and gaps, firmly soldering the parts together.
Description of the device
The electrical appliance consists of:
- rod;
- heater;
- stings;
- holder;
- electrical cord with plug for connecting to the network.
The soldering iron operates on a 220 W network; in industry, models with a power of 360, 680, 850, 1200 W are used. It is designed for soldering parts for household or industrial purposes and is designed to connect various metal elements with each other. It is widely used in electronics and radio engineering. .
An electric heating element in the form of a nichrome spiral in a mica and ceramic shell is built into the device. The element is protected from above by a metal casing so that the worker does not accidentally get an electric shock.
Principle of operation
The operating principle is simple:
- The soldering iron is connected to the network.
- When the device is turned on, the red copper rod heats up to the temperature at which the solder begins to melt.
- Next, the heat is transferred to the tip of the device. When the copper tip comes into contact with the solder, it melts, the parts heat up and are soldered together.
Areas of use
The soldering iron is widely used in industry for soldering microcircuits in telephones, radios, televisions, copper pipes, and wires. At home for repairing copper utensils and small parts.
Kinds
Soldering irons are:
- Electric , with a durable and practical spiral heater. With the help of an electric station, you can solder quickly and efficiently, but a beginner cannot operate it; experience in operation and a number of practical skills are required.
- Ceramic , with a more powerful heater in the device.
- Induction , heating of which is carried out by an inductor coil. The coil creates a magnetic field for the tip, as a result of which the cores heat up and soldering can begin. Loss of magnetic properties will lead to the cessation of heating. These soldering irons are significantly expensive, unreliable and far from practical.
- Self-contained , the solder for the device is gas.
- Rechargeable , operating at low power of only up to 15 W.
- Pulse , in the form of a pistol. Press the trigger and hold it until the tip heats up to a certain temperature. When the trigger is pulled, the device stops heating and begins to cool slowly.
Purpose
- for pipes of sewerage systems and water supply systems in case of cracks and crevices that promote water leakage;
- for the home, you can solder leaky dishes, small metal utensils, welding cables;
- for microcircuits, small chips in electronics, body - radio devices, car wires, connectors.
Criterias of choice
When choosing a device, consider the following characteristics:
- Heater type.
- Power. The traditional power of the device for soldering, desoldering microcircuits is from 3 to 12 W, for soldering household appliances - from 20 to 40 W, for soldering with large cross-section wire - from 60 to 100 W, for soldering dishes, a radiator in a car, metal products large sizes - from 100 to 150 W. If you need a device for use at home, in everyday life, then it is better to purchase two at once, with different power. Depending on the breakdown, successful and durable soldering may require a device with a low power of up to 40 W; for large-scale work, a more powerful device will be required - up to 100 W.
- The supply voltage is usually standard - 220 W. Many models are designed to operate precisely at this voltage. For uninformed users, everything is the same and there is a lot of it; small appliances for household needs with a voltage no higher than 36 - 40 W are safer. If there is no outlet, or you need to solder in a hard-to-reach place, it is better to choose a device with 12.18.24 power supply, or purchase a gas model.
- The shape and heat resistance of the tip are very important when choosing this device. On sale, the sting can be found in any shape in the form of a spatula, cone, or needle. Using a spatula is much easier and more convenient. Buy a set of tips; it is better to solder microcircuits with a flat, wide tip; flat, thin conical tips will also find their use over time.
When choosing a soldering iron, it is important to take into account the heat resistance of the tip, which is resistant to sudden heating and sudden temperature changes. Choose heat-resistant tips; the soldering iron will last longer.
When choosing, pay attention to the handle; it should be thermally insulated from the main heating part, and the handle should also adjust the length of the tip itself.
An electric soldering iron can heat up to 300 degrees; do not place it hot on a table surface. It’s good if, in addition to the device when purchasing, you purchase a special stand, there will be no damage to property or possible ignition of the structure.
Tips and tricks for choosing a soldering iron
- If you are familiar with the device and have certain skills, then immediately purchase a soldering station.
Unlike a simple electric model, using a station you can:
- you won’t be able to control the heating range and burn elements during soldering;
- maintain the tip temperature at normal levels to avoid overheating;
- There is no need to purchase the necessary small elements separately; the station is equipped with everything you need: a stand for a soldering iron, a bath for cleaning a sponge.
- If you are a beginner and need a soldering iron for home purposes, choose a model with a power of no more than 40 W, as well as a temperature control function.
- Do not buy the first device with many different functions, first learn the basics when working with the device. A simple and inexpensive device is quite suitable for home use.
- When purchasing, pay attention to the voltage of the soldering iron; models from 12 to 24 W are safer.
- A good choice if you don’t have certain skills is gas models. After reading the included instructions, you will quickly learn how to use it.
- Buy the stings in a set. It’s always convenient to have tips of different shapes on hand; they’ll come in handy around the house, you never know what needs to be soldered in the future.
- When heating the device, only hold the insulated handle, otherwise you may burn your hands.
- Store the tool on a shelf, perhaps in a pantry, or in a square ceramic pot; small parts will not get lost and will always be assembled.
- It is better to throw away the waste generated during soldering immediately, do not scatter it on the floor, as you can slip.
- In addition to the soldering iron, it is better to immediately purchase an additional auxiliary tool in the form of:
- wire cutters for removing insulation, cutting wires, parts at the terminal;
- tweezers for moving to the place where small parts are soldered, especially when working with a microcircuit;
- medical scalpel;
- stationery knife;
- thin awl;
- syringe needles.
- Only by choosing the right tool will you be able to perform high-quality work and solder parts reliably and durable. The design and power of the device are different. Take into account the main criteria when choosing, read the instructions when purchasing, and the components for the device.
- Powerful soldering irons are mainly designed for industrial purposes. At home, you will only need to have a device with a power of no more than 100 W.
- Store the tool in a place away from children. Avoid exposure to dampness or leaving the device switched on unnecessarily.
- Modern models today are equipped with a whole list of additional attachments and bells and whistles, sometimes completely unnecessary in everyday life. When choosing, indicate the purpose of this acquisition. There is absolutely no need to store bulky soldering stations in the apartment, although at the dacha, in the garage, perhaps this unit will become your constant assistant. The soldering iron arsenal on the market is constantly being modified and replenished, so in some cases it will be easier to purchase the necessary parts later, as needed.
Source: https://househill.ru/instrument/payalniki-vybrat.html
Notes from a master. Choosing a soldering iron - android.mobile-review.com
Hello.
Recently, in the comments to one of the articles, I was asked to recommend a soldering iron for a novice craftsman, which can be used to repair electronics at home. In response to this, the idea for this article appeared. Since repairs for me are not a professional activity, but only a hobby, the information presented below will be my subjective opinion, with which you may not agree.
So, depending on the purpose, soldering irons have different characteristics, which means that before going to the store, you need to understand why you need it and how much money you are willing to spend on it.
The ideal option would be to buy a soldering station, however, for a novice master who will solder something only occasionally, there is no point in spending extra money. If you plan to seriously engage in soldering, then the surest option is a soldering station.
But today is not about that, today is about soldering irons.
Soldering irons can be divided according to the following parameters:
Operating principle
On sale you can find two types of soldering irons, differing in their operating principle.
- Electric soldering irons with a spiral heater are the most common and affordable soldering irons. It is based on a heating element in the form of a spiral made of nichrome wire. There are also ceramic ones, which have a ceramic rod instead of a spiral, but they are more expensive and less common. And even if you find one, most likely it will be a regular spiral one, in which the spiral will be wrapped in ceramics.
- Pulse soldering irons - most often have the form of a pistol, and the heating is turned on after pressing a special button. The advantage is very fast heating, literally in seconds. However, such soldering irons are dangerous for sensitive electronics due to the presence of high-frequency voltage on the tip. And their cost is high.
- Induction soldering irons are essentially a soldering station. Heating is carried out using an inductor coil. The advantage is that the soldering iron is protected from overheating - when the core reaches a certain temperature (Curie point), the ferromagnetic coating of the core loses its magnetic properties and heating of the core stops. Upon cooling, the ferromagnetic properties are restored and heating resumes. Such soldering irons are significantly more expensive than their spiral and pulse counterparts.
There are other types, for example, gas, but they also have their own “buts” that make this type either too expensive or inconvenient for the home.
Thus, we will focus on the classic spiral type. As they say, cheap and cheerful.
Power
The higher the power (unit of measurement - Watt (Russian designation: W, international: W)), the higher the temperature of the tip. High power is not always necessary, since in the case of soldering electronics it can lead to overheating of the elements and their failure.
Typically soldering irons have a power of 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40 watts. For home phone repairs, power up to 20 watts inclusive is sufficient. Anything higher requires additional protective measures, and is simply redundant.
Often, when asked what kind of soldering iron they prefer to use, I hear from fellow craftsmen the phrase: oh, it doesn’t matter, as long as it melts. On the one hand, although this sounds unprofessional, this position also has a right to life, however, only if you have a lot of experience and you know exactly what you are doing and how. In other cases, it is better to use a 20-watt soldering iron.
Voltage
The most common option, and the most convenient for a novice master, is the standard 220 Volt (V) for a Russian outlet. Yes, there are soldering irons for 36, 12 and even 6V networks, but they require additional equipment - a transformer. We don’t need these complications, so we’ll focus on the most common option – 220V.
Size
Everything is simple here - the smaller the work you plan to do, the smaller the soldering iron you need. I advise you to have two soldering irons in your arsenal, one small, for soldering microcircuits and small parts, the other medium-sized, for working with wires or large parts.
The size of a small soldering iron usually does not exceed 20 cm, and a medium one will be 30-35 cm in length.
Pay special attention to the soldering iron tip - it comes in different shapes (profiles) and materials.
For a small soldering iron, the most convenient tip will be in the shape of a needle.
For medium, choose according to your taste, either a round or flat tip. Also pay attention to the length of the tip - do not take it too short, otherwise there is a risk of not reaching the soldering point, or the casing will melt the wrong places.
Body material (handle)
Everything is simple here:
Soldering iron handles are made from a variety of different materials, the most common of which are plastic, wood, ebonite, carbolite, and textolite.
Many people advise choosing wooden handles because of their low thermal conductivity and lightness. I think I agree with this opinion. However, I also had the most inexpensive soldering irons with plastic handles. And nothing bad happened. But what I definitely wouldn’t recommend are handles made of carbolite and textolite - not only are they heavy, they also get hot.
Tip material
Most often, a copper tip is used for household soldering irons.
The advantages of a copper tip include ease of tinning, quick heating, ease of straightening and cleaning from carbon deposits.
Among the disadvantages of a copper tip, one can note the very fact that it is necessary to straighten the tip due to the fact that during operation the surface of the tip oxidizes, burns out and becomes covered with cavities. You have to take a file and grind down the damaged surface.
Another type of tip is the so-called “eternal” tip, coated with nickel or chromium. Such a tip does not fade, which means it does not require editing.
However, like everything, such a sting has disadvantages, including a separate tinning procedure, similar to a ritual, as well as sensitivity to overheating and mechanical damage. If such a tip is overheated, it will stop capturing solder, which means you will have to tin it again. Such a tip is not only unnecessary, but cannot even be adjusted - the protective layer is quite thin, and if it is damaged, the tip will very quickly burn out and fail.
Conclusion
Here, perhaps, are all the recommendations for choosing. As for specific manufacturers, I could, with my nose in the air, name you some “Weller” for 6,000 rubles, saying that the Germans are what you need. But, I will say this - for occasional use at home, an ordinary Chinese “Ya Xun” for 180-250 rubles is also suitable, which will serve you no worse than a tool from a famous German manufacturer.
Source: http://android.mobile-review.com/articles/57681/
How to choose the right soldering irons for your home - which one is better?
A soldering iron is the main tool for soldering. It can vary in type of design and power.
Depending on the type of heater, two main groups can be distinguished:
- Ceramic soldering irons heat up faster, but have a shorter service life. This feature is due to the fact that the ceramic rod is quite fragile and can break under certain conditions. Therefore, you should work with such options carefully.
- Spiral ones take a long time to heat up, but at the same time they are practical and durable. They have become widespread. In this case, a ceramic rod is also used as a core, but on the outside it is protected by special turns of strong wire.
According to the power indicator, the following classification can be made:
- Power from 3 to 10 W is most suitable when working with very small chips. In the case of microcircuits, the situation of tracks burning due to high temperature often occurs. The 10 W limit makes the soldering iron more convenient to use, and reducing the power allows you to make the design lighter and more convenient.
- Power from 20 to 40 W is often found in soldering irons that are classified as amateur radio or household ones. They occur very often. Many inexpensive models have exactly this power. For most tasks, 40 W will be enough power. At the same time, the structure will be small.
- A power of 60 to 100 W is sufficient for unsoldering thick wires. That is why such versions are found in car services that perform car electrical repair work. Such structures are quite cumbersome.
- Power from 100 to 250 W allows you to seal pots, radiators and other things made of metal with a fairly large cross-sectional thickness. When using such a powerful soldering iron, you should work with extreme caution. In some cases, the tool comes with instructions that clearly indicate safety precautions, compliance with which is mandatory.
When choosing, it is worth remembering that the greater the power, the more cumbersome the design.
In addition, we can also note the presence on the market of special soldering stations, which are several times superior to conventional soldering irons. The soldering speed when using this equipment is several times higher, as is the quality of the resulting connection. However. To use the station correctly, you need to have certain skills, their cost is very high.
Selection criteria - what to look for?
The choice of the instrument in question should be made taking into account its main qualities.
When choosing, it is recommended to consider the following nuances:
- Power and design size . As previously noted, power is one of the determining factors in whether a soldering iron can be used in certain conditions. If the power is large or small, the work will not be done. There are design options that allow power adjustment over a wide range.
- The supply voltage also determines the ability to use a soldering iron in certain conditions. The most popular models are those that operate on a standard 220 V network. From a safety point of view, many choose a design that operates at a voltage of 36 V.
- The type of heating element can also be called a determining factor. EPSN, which are represented by a ceramic tube covered with wire on top, are widely used.
- Durability and tip shape . The stings are made in the form of a cone, needle or blade. There are design options that allow you to change the nozzle, which significantly increases the comfort of work.
- The presence of thermally insulating handles in the design is an important requirement. When operating for a long time, heat from the heating element may transfer to the handles if they are not insulated.
- Possibility of adjusting the length of the tip . This feature is necessary because the sting “eats” over time. Defects may form at the end, which will significantly complicate the work. Typically, they are filed down and then the length of the tip is adjusted.
The above features should be taken into account when choosing a soldering iron.
Selection of components: handle, nozzle, stand
When choosing a component, pay attention to the following:
Stand
During operation, the tip heats up to 250 degrees Celsius and higher. In order to eliminate the possibility of a dangerous situation, special stands are used. When choosing, you should pay attention to those versions that have good fixation of the soldering iron, as well as an insulated part of the contact between the structure and the heating element of the tool.
Nozzle
May be of various shapes. There are special sets that have several options for nozzles.
Lever
Must be insulated from the heating element.
In some cases, the soldering iron manufacturer also creates special kits of components.
Main settings
The main parameters include:
- Power determines the ability to solder metal of a certain thickness. The higher it is, the more voluminous work can be performed.
- The type of rod determines the heating speed of the soldering iron.
- The presence of a special regulator for setting the required temperature and power makes the tool more functional.
- The shape of the tip is a design feature that determines the ability to work under certain conditions. There are models that have a replaceable tip.
- Voltage from which the device can be powered. The most popular versions are those that operate on a 220 V mains voltage.
These parameters are the main ones. Other nuances, for example, what material the handle is made of and how long it is, cannot be called determining factors in the operation of the tool.
Selection of manufacturer and review of models
When choosing soldering irons, people often pay attention to which company produces a particular model:
- The most popular products are from Czech manufacturers, as they have a good price-quality ratio.
- Also , good devices are produced by Turkish manufacturers.
- With Chinese models, everything is complicated , since in this case it is difficult to distinguish a low-quality product from a good one.
- Russian soldering irons can also often be found on sale. Their low cost attracts quite a lot of attention. In terms of quality, many models are suitable for home use.
There are a huge number of models of soldering irons.
Among all, we note the following:
- FIT 60502 is one of the cheapest options, costing about 250 rubles. Power 25 W. The model is suitable for performing various household tasks. Does not have a regulator.
- SVETOZAR SV-55316-40-H4 is a model that is supplied as a set. Has a power of 40 W. Can be used to perform household tasks, has a massive handle. The cost is about 800 rubles.
- DIOLD PP-120 is a set supplied in a special box. Power 100 W, working surface temperature 250 degrees Celsius. Cost 1500 rubles.
- SVETOZAR SV-55335 – soldering station, power 48 W, operating temperature 450 degrees Celsius. It has a complex design with the ability to adjust operating parameters. The cost is more than 5,000 rubles. The set includes a special stand.
When choosing a particular model, you should take into account how often and what kind of work will be carried out.
Adviсe:
- When choosing the most suitable model , based on the above recommendations, you should remember that a good soldering iron will not be cheap.
- Also , it is worth remembering that you need to choose the right seller. The products in question must have a warranty.
- Before choosing , you need to evaluate how often the soldering iron will be used and what kind of work will be carried out. Often there is no point in purchasing an expensive model.
Question answer
- What power is suitable for soldering radio components? Most often, 30-50 W models are chosen.
- What is the service life? In this case, based on reviews, we can say - from 1 day to several decades.
- Which sting is better: cone-shaped or flat? There is no definite answer to this question, since everything depends on the type of work and other features.
- What price range is best for a beginner? 800-1000 rubles - in this category it is worth choosing a soldering iron.
Source: https://slarkenergy.ru/instrument/payalnik/kak-vybrat.html