How to disassemble a soldering iron

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I have 3 soldering irons at my disposal, all of them are convenient for their specific purpose. The soldering iron that will be discussed is the simplest and at the same time indispensable for me than the others. Conventional, but at the same time having an undeniable advantage in the form of a heat-intensive tip, without which it is simply unrealistic to solder wires to aluminum foil. It all started when the outer insulation of the wiring burst, and today one of the wires broke off inside.

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Soldering iron EPSN

Table of contents Frequent causes of breakdowns and ways to eliminate them. How to properly disassemble a soldering iron? A simple way to fix breakdowns How to rewind a soldering iron? Safety precautionsConclusion. A soldering iron is one of the most reliable tools, as it is a fairly simple device. But even these types of equipment can break down over time.

Repairing a soldering iron is not a very difficult matter, but the main thing here is to determine the type of breakdown in order to fix it. Conventionally, everything can be divided into restoring functionality according to the standard scheme, which is present in standard models, and correcting problems with additional functions of the tool. Indeed, some models have built-in temperature controllers, heating indicators and other things.

Repairing a soldering iron with your own hands is often not difficult, but in most cases people still prefer to buy new tools when it comes to simple budget models. However, if you want to save money, you can try to do everything yourself. Before you figure out how to fix a soldering iron, it’s worth understanding what caused it to break. One of the most common causes is a power outage.

A rupture may occur in a section of the circuit, which will lead to the loss of the ability to warm up the instrument. The easiest way is if the circuit break occurs on the power cord.

It is most susceptible to deformation and it is possible that sooner or later the wire will break. In this case, it is easier to completely replace the cord than to look for the break point. Breaking the nichrome winding will require more complex procedures, although this is quite possible to do independently. First you need to find the break point. This can be done with a multimeter, but you will have to disassemble the soldering iron. This takes into account the winding resistance, which depends on the power of the tool.

It can be viewed on the product body. For repairs, the body of the soldering iron is removed, which performs a protective function. If the model has fixing rings, then they need to be moved apart. The protective casing is available in two main versions. There are several ways to repair a soldering iron after disassembly. The simple method is as follows;. This is a simple method that is often used, but experts do not recommend it as the main one.

The main disadvantage of this technique is that the resistance of the soldering iron at the twisting point increases. Accordingly, the temperature there rises during operation. It is the place of twisting that becomes the most dangerous for breakdowns in the future.

There is a high probability that the wiring will burn out next time in the same place. To ensure that there are no weak spots left in the tool after rewinding, it is necessary to rewind the entire reel on it. If it is necessary to preserve the characteristics of the model, then the parameters of the wire must be the same as the old one.

In this case, it is necessary to maintain the number of turns that are provided in the design for each layer. The insulation can be replaced if it is not possible to choose the same exact option. Here you can use mica for a soldering iron in the form of plates or tubes, heat-resistant fiberglass or asbestos gaskets.

Asbestos is one of the best insulators. It is necessary to maintain approximately the same number of turns in each layer of the winding. Sometimes problems arise with the insulating layers that are located between the windings. Here you also have to disassemble the tool and partially rewind it, but the main action is to replace the winding. The easiest way is to replace it with mica tubes. This material is an excellent dielectric and at the same time has the necessary thermal conductivity qualities.

Mica is a rather fragile material, which becomes its main disadvantage. Even if the tubes are in a protected housing, there is a possibility of damage due to a mechanical shock.

If the mica breaks down, the soldering iron may short out between the turns. During repairs, it is very important to follow safety precautions, as this will help keep the instrument in good condition and also protect the health and life of the technician.

The basic rules include:. Despite the fact that a soldering iron is an inexpensive tool, sometimes it is easier and cheaper to repair it than to buy a new one.

The simplicity of the design reduces all repair operations to a few basic points, regardless of the cause of the problem.

Repairing a Chinese soldering iron with a temperature controller will not be fundamentally different from restoring the functionality of a domestic tool without additional functions, unless we are talking about a breakdown of the temperature controller itself.

Most soldering machines have approximately the same design. The differences lie only in the shape and methods of installing special attachments. Some experts call these devices that way. The operation of the device is quite simple.

The heating element increases the temperature of the stove inside which it is located. From it, heat is transferred to the nozzles. It is these heating elements that help soften the polymer to the desired consistency. The thermostat allows you to control the heating process.

This part is responsible for maintaining the required temperature conditions, preventing overheating of the installed nozzles. If the thermostat is faulty, it will be difficult to operate the device. Heating elements can become very hot. This will negatively affect the duration of their operation. The metal part of the stove will begin to melt over time.

As a result, the device will become unsuitable for pipe soldering. It is important to choose a soldering machine equipped with a high-quality thermostat. In cheap models, this element is unstable. This leads to uneven heating of polypropylene structures.

The temperature level may be excessively high or, conversely, low. Note that for experienced specialists such a defect is not critical.

At the same time, beginners will be able to effectively complete the task only with the use of an absolutely working soldering iron. This is due to the fact that professionals intuitively work with the device, and thanks to their skills they will be able to minimize the consequences of using an unstable device.

Based on what was written above, a simple conclusion is drawn - it is better to use high-quality and reliable equipment than to tinker with a poorly functioning soldering iron.

In this case, it is advisable to use equipment with a thermostat that allows smooth temperature control. The soldering result also depends on the quality of the replacement tips.

These elements directly affect the quality of the joint created. The key factor in choosing nozzles is the thickness of the Teflon coating. Please note that most cheap models have a very thin layer. Therefore, it burns out quite quickly. This causes the polypropylene to stick to the nozzle. As a result, the working area of ​​the soldering element is reduced. This leads to a deterioration in the quality of the formed joints. There are two types of soldering machines on sale.

The first type is equipped with a flat tip. In the second type of device, the soldering element is made in the shape of a cylinder. Each variety has its own characteristics. According to many experts, models with a cylinder-shaped sting are more convenient.

Since the soldering element is compact in size, the device can be used even in small spaces. Each type of device is equipped with its own type of replaceable attachments.

For models with a flat tip, the nozzle is installed using a special bolt.

The plate has several holes for connecting two or three nozzles. For models with a cylindrical tip, the heating elements look like clamps. They crimp the cylinder and are secured with several bolts.

The replaceable nozzles of the second type of device, unlike the first, do not scroll relative to their axis. This greatly simplifies the soldering process.

Because there is no need to tighten the bolts. You also need to pay attention to the configuration of the nozzles. Most often, a set contains at least three attachments. Some models are equipped with six replaceable heating elements to work with structures of different sections.

Today, the most popular manufacturers of soldering irons for polypropylene structures are the following brands:

Dear visitor!

Anyone who has tried to repair electronics has come to the realization that a soldering iron alone will not be enough. Some SMD elements simply cannot be desoldered without the help of a hot air dryer.

That is why, over time, a soldering station is purchased that includes both. Most cheap options rarely meet individual preferences. Therefore, a do-it-yourself hot-air soldering station is not something unattainable.

The article will discuss various options for soldering stations, as well as the self-assembly process.

How to make a soldering iron with your own hands at home A second life for a ballpoint pen; Idea No. 3 – Powerful impulse model.

Why does the soldering iron tip turn black?

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Having had a lot of trouble soldering with an old Soviet wattage soldering iron with an eternally burnt overheated copper tip, burning out flux, oxidizing solder and nichrome heat without adjusting the heating, it was decided to purchase a normal soldering iron for household needs and repairing every little thing. A similar soldering iron has already been reviewed here - a younger model, 60 watts.

This review will concern a more powerful model - 90 watts for MT tips, as well as its minor modernization and completion. Set and price:. But you can also ask the seller to offer a discount again if there is none at the moment. In the photos above you can see that the display is backlit, but the soldering iron is produced from the factory without it.

But I had my own option at hand, namely, a volt indicator lamp built into industrial equipment, which contains a driver and an LED inside: I picked out the finished circuit with the LED from the case, soldered two wires, put on heat shrink and soldered the ends to the soldering iron board in place of incoming power:.

Do-it-yourself electric soldering iron repair

Soldering iron repair. List of Irbislab forums. Previous topic :: Next topic. I recently encountered the following problem: a recently purchased soldering iron burned out after working for a couple of months.

An electric soldering iron is a hand-held tool designed for fastening parts together using soft solders, by heating the solder to a liquid state and filling the gap between the parts being soldered with it. As you can see in the drawing, the electrical circuit of the soldering iron is very simple, and consists of only three elements: a plug, a flexible electrical wire and a nichrome spiral.

How to make a powerful soldering iron with your own hands

Source: https://all-audio.pro/c17/manuali/kak-razobrat-payalnik-s-derevyannoy-ruchkoy.php

Electric soldering iron - do-it-yourself device and repair - Do It Yourself

An electric soldering iron is a well-known heating device designed for joining a wide variety of parts made of non-ferrous or ferrous metals.

The operating principle of the tool is based on the heating effect of its working tip (tip), which melts the solder with flux. The resulting liquid mixture fills all the unevenness and voids between the parts and forms a reliable connection after cooling.

But during operation, the tool can break, and such damage manifests itself in a variety of forms. That is why independent repair of a soldering iron is a mandatory operation that any master working with it must master.

Main details

In order to quickly and efficiently repair an electric soldering iron with your own hands, first of all, you need to familiarize yourself with its design, which includes the following components:

• an electric heating element placed on a tubular base made of mica or fiberglass and made in the form of a twisted spiral winding;
• handle-holder with holes for a tubular base and an electric cord;
• a working tip inserted from the other end of the mica tube.

On top of the nichrome wire, another protective layer of mica or asbestos is made, which reduces heat loss and insulates the spiral from the metal parts of the body.

The ends of the winding are folded in half and soldered to the copper conductors of an electrical cord with a plug at the mating end. To prevent them from accidentally tearing, these places are reinforced with aluminum plates compressed under pressure, which remove excess heat from the contact area.

For better insulation, special tubes (ceramic or made of fiberglass or mica) are put on the areas where the wires are connected.

Electrical diagram

To understand the basics of repairing a soldering fixture, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with its diagram, which consists of a number of elements connected in series. It consists of an electrical plug, a connecting wire (cord) and a nichrome heating winding.

Since the power comes from a 220 V AC network, a converter is usually built into the circuit.

Voltage

One of the main technical characteristics taken into account when it is necessary to repair a soldering iron is the voltage supplied to the winding. In different device models, it can take the following values:

• 220 Volt (used in most domestic models);
• supply voltages reduced by a transformer ranging from 12 to 42 Volts (for hazardous working conditions);
• 5-volt power supply for miniature USB soldering irons, which are easy to repair at home.

Reduced voltages are used in conditions called dangerous and especially dangerous (at high levels of humidity or dust in the room, for example). The main purpose of reducing this value is to protect the user from electric shock.

Regardless of which of these models is subject to repair, the methods for restoring it come down to simple work operations.

Power

Electrical power refers to the energy taken from the network by a soldering iron, defined as the product of voltage and consumed current.

This indicator is directly related to the thermal power dissipated by the tip, which determines its operational capabilities. The higher this parameter, the better the soldering iron tip will warm up the soldering area.

The operating power values ​​for various product samples vary within very wide limits (from units to thousands of watts).

That is, there is a choice when, for working with small parts, preference is given to soldering devices with low consumption and heat dissipation. Well, for cases when you have to solder large metal products, on the contrary, only “powerful” devices are suitable.

Taking this indicator into account in the simplest case comes down to replacing the tip with a thicker tip or vice versa. If the heating element fails, the power is taken into account when it is necessary to rewind it independently and select the required number of turns.

Winding calculation

Repairing a soldering iron in most cases comes down to a procedure that allows you to rewind a burnt nichrome winding. When replacing it, it is important to correctly select the thickness and diameter of the nichrome wire, as well as the number of turns in the spiral, which determines the generated thermal power.

To determine the initial indicator (winding resistance), special tables are used.

Table for determining the resistance of a nichrome spiral depending on the power and supply voltage of electrical appliances, Ohm Power consumption of the soldering iron, W Soldering iron supply voltage, V12243612722012 24 36 42 60 75 100 150 200 300 400 500 700 900 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000

12	48,0	108	1344	4033
6,0	24,0	54	672	2016
4,0	16,0	36	448	1344
3,4	13,7	31	384	1152
2,4	9,6	22	269	806
1.9	7.7	17	215	645
1,4	5,7	13	161	484
0,96	3,84	8,6	107	332
0,72	2,88	6,5	80,6	242
0,48	1,92	4,3	53,8	161
0,36	1,44	3,2	40,3	121
0,29	1,15	2,6	32,3	96,8
0,21	0,83	1,85	23,0	69,1
0,16	0,64	1,44	17,9	53,8
0,14	0,57	1,30	16,1	48,4
0,10	0,38	0,86	10,8	32,3
0,07	0,29	0,65	8,06	24,2
0,06	0,23	0,52	6,45	19,4
0,05	0,19	0,43	5,38	16,1

Table of dependence of linear resistance (one meter) of nichrome wire on diameterDiameter of nichrome wire, mm Linear resistance, Ohm/m at 20°C

0,05	0,07	0,08	0,1	0,2	0,3	0,4	0,5	0,60	0,7
550	280	208	137	34,6	15,7	8,75	5,60	3,93	2,89

Diameter of nichrome wire, mm Linear resistance, Ohm/m at 20°C

0,8	0,9	1,0	1,2	1,3	1,5	2,0	2,2	2,5	3,0
2,20	1,70	1,40	0,97	0,8	0,62	0,35	0,31	0,22	0,16

Using these tables, you can check the correctness of the winding calculations in order to carry out repairs in the future.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSi-HTCH6Gs

With a fixed supply voltage U and the resistance of the heating device R measured using a tester, the power P consumed by it is calculated using the formula P=(UxU)/R.

Possible faults

The most common malfunction of soldering irons (regardless of type and power) is burnout of the heater winding or partial interturn short circuit.

It manifests itself in the fact that the soldering iron does not heat up at all, that is, it loses its functionality.

As a rule, the shorting of individual turns over time also leads to the burning of the entire spiral, when ordinary repairs no longer help, and the spiral must be completely rewinded. Under the most favorable conditions, the lack of heating of the soldering iron may be due to the following reasons:

• poor contact at the junction of the voltage supply wire and the ends of the winding (spiral);
• faulty power plug;
• a break in one of the cores in the cord itself.

All these malfunctions are detected through visual inspection, or using a tester turned on in the “Ring” mode, after which repairs are made.

Sequence of repair work

To eliminate a break in the wires or plug, first use a multimeter (tester) to identify the exact location of the damage. And only after that one of the possible methods of repairing the soldering iron is selected.

So, if a break is detected in the supply wire or plug, the easiest way is to completely replace these parts with a working product. To do this, it is more convenient to simply extend the undamaged part by soldering a new power cord to it.

When building up the supply wire, special attention is paid to the insulation of individual cores. The most reliable way to protect each of them is with a polyvinyl chloride tube (cambric).

If the soldering iron winding burns out, you will have to open the protective casing (cover) and completely disassemble the heating element, disconnecting it from the power wires.

When rewinding a spiral, you must carefully ensure that adjacent turns are located at a distance from one another, and a mica spacer is placed between the winding rows.

At the end of the winding work, the leads are soldered to the ends of the nichrome wire, and then the supply wires are crimped, after which the protective casing returns to its original place. At this point the repair can be considered complete.

Operating rules

When working with an electric soldering iron, in order to avoid accidental breakdowns of individual parts, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. During soldering, avoid strong mechanical stress on the cord and the electric heater of the device.
2. Do not overheat the soldering iron coil (do not leave it on for a long time).
3. It is necessary to use a power regulator that allows you to select the required mode for heating the tip.

In conclusion, we note that during operation it is necessary to monitor the condition of the power cord and prevent it from being accidentally damaged by contact with a tip heated to a high temperature.

If this cannot be avoided, you should carefully isolate the melted area by placing a cambric over the damaged core and wrapping it with electrical tape.

A simple repair will help get your soldering iron working again. In general, thanks to its simple design, this tool rarely fails.

Source: https://cheboksary-otdelka.ru/instrumenty/payalnik-elektricheskij-ustrojstvo-i-remont-svoimi-rukami.html

How to disassemble a soldering iron

Table of contents

Common causes of breakdowns and ways to eliminate them How to properly disassemble a soldering iron? A simple way to fix breakdowns How to rewind a soldering iron? Safety precautions Conclusion

A soldering iron is one of the most reliable tools, as it is a fairly simple device. But even these types of equipment can break down over time. Repairing a soldering iron is not a very difficult matter, but the main thing here is to determine the type of breakdown in order to fix it.

Conventionally, everything can be divided into restoring functionality according to the standard scheme, which is present in standard models, and correcting problems with additional functions of the tool.

Indeed, some models have built-in temperature controllers, heating indicators and other things.

Repairing a soldering iron with your own hands is often not difficult, but in most cases people still prefer to buy new tools when it comes to simple budget models. However, if you want to save money, you can try to do everything yourself.

Common causes of breakdowns and ways to eliminate them

Before you figure out how to fix a soldering iron, it’s worth understanding what caused it to break. One of the most common causes is a power outage. A rupture may occur in a section of the circuit, which will lead to the loss of the ability to warm up the instrument. The easiest way is if the circuit break occurs on the power cord. It is most susceptible to deformation and it is possible that sooner or later the wire will break. In this case, it is easier to completely replace the cord than to look for the break point.

Breaking the nichrome winding will require more complex procedures, although this is quite possible to do independently. First you need to find the break point. This can be done with a multimeter, but you will have to disassemble the soldering iron. This takes into account the winding resistance, which depends on the power of the tool. It can be viewed on the product body.

The reasons why the soldering iron coil burns out may lie in the following:

• tool heating is too high;
• voltage surges that lead to increased temperatures;
• long continuous operation, increasing the temperature of the soldering iron;
• winding defects, when there are problem areas on the wire that fail first;
• the presence of twists that increase resistance in a specific place.

How to properly disassemble a soldering iron?

For repairs, the body of the soldering iron is removed, which performs a protective function. If the model has fixing rings, then they need to be moved apart. The protective casing is available in two main versions.

To know how to disassemble a soldering iron, you need to study each of them:

• on the pin with a winding there is a metal tube, which rests against the handle of the tool, and is clamped on the reverse side with a special end;
• the body is made in the form of two halves of a tube, tapering at the edges (here both parts are fixed using clamping rings).

Source: https://mega.windows81.ru/kak-razobrat-payalnik/

How to disassemble a maxwell iron

If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and can be repaired yourself. If you know how to use a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. We will talk about how to repair an iron with your own hands in this article.

General device

Since irons are produced by many different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But the general structure remains the same. Available:

• Sole with a heating element built into it. If there is a steamer function, there are a number of holes in the sole for steam to escape.
• Thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature for the sole.
• Container/reservoir for water used for steaming.
• There is a nozzle for spraying water and forcing steam out. There is also a steam intensity regulator. With its help, the frequency of automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
• The iron is connected to the network using an electrical cord, which is attached to a contact block located in the back under the plastic cover.

General structure of an electric iron

Once you have become familiar with what is where, you can begin repairing the iron yourself.

What will you need for work?

To work, you will need a set of screwdrivers - Phillips and flathead. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card to pry off parts of the iron with latches. To check the integrity of the parts you will need a multimeter (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron if you need to change any spare parts.

Tools that may be needed when repairing an iron

That's all from tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat-shrinkable tubes, you may need sandpaper and pliers.

How to disassemble an iron

The first difficulty faced by those who want to repair the iron themselves is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and are not difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry up the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, and separate the cover from the body.

Underneath there is a terminal block to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can no longer disassemble the iron. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.

Source: https://moy-instrument.ru/masteru/kak-razobrat-utyug-maxwell.html

How to disassemble JBL wireless headphones of different models

JBL is a recognized leader in everything related to audio. From iconic events like Woodstock and Madison Square Garden to Yankee Stadium games and memorable weekend trips, JBL has a knack for creating life's most epic moments.

This company gives its fans products through which people enjoy quality sound, allowing them to make the most of every moment. JBL has extensive experience in developing audio transmission and reproduction technologies.

For over 70 years, it has brought innovative products to market that are enjoyed by millions of users.

JBL's most popular devices and products include speakers and wired/wireless headphones of various types. If the speakers of this brand are in most cases simply indestructible, then sometimes certain problems arise with headphones or headsets.

For example, wireless headphones may not turn on or charge, or the status indicators may behave strangely. To troubleshoot problems, you will need to disassemble the earphone into parts. Let's look at different JBL models to see how this can be done at home.

CONTENT

• 1. Disassembly of JBL T110BT
• 2. Disassembly of JBL T450BT
• 3. Disassembly of JBL E45BT

JBL T110BT disassembly

1. Using a flat-head screwdriver, carefully separate the parts of the case where the battery unit is located.
2. Sometimes headphones stop responding precisely because the reason lies in a battery malfunction (for example, the connecting wire has become unsoldered, etc.).

The second wire of the T110 BT contains the control unit. It can also be disassembled:

1. The plug from the charging port slides to the side.
2. Using a flat-head screwdriver, the halves of the block body are unclenched. Inside there is a control chip with a status indicator LED and a micro-USB port.

The headphone housing is also disassembled:

1. The silicone ear pads are removed from the headphones.
2. The thin, sharp edge of the knife blade of a flathead screwdriver is carefully inserted into the seam. The two parts of the plastic case gently slide apart.
3. You can remove the mesh covering the speaker using a needle or pin.

JBL T450BT disassembly

This is a fairly popular model of on-ear Bluetooth headphones, which also causes problems.

1. We remove the soft pads made of eco-leather and foam rubber on the “phones” of the headphones.
2. Remove the three screws that hold the plastic covers on each speaker in place. On the left side there is a control chip (controller), on which wiring can become unsoldered over time. During disassembly and external inspection, such a malfunction is not difficult to notice.
3. The speakers are attached to removable plastic covers, which are also closed and held in place by flat plastic washers that simply screw into slots without the aid of screws.
4. The battery is located in the right ear, also under the black plastic cover assembled with the speaker. Some craftsmen manage to install another, additional battery on the original battery in order to double the operating time of the headphones. But this, of course, is not safe, and we do not recommend you do this.

This model is similar to the previous one, so the disassembly principle will be almost the same:

1. Unscrew all the screws that are on the “phones”. This may be difficult to do since JBL uses screws with an unusual triangular slot.
2. There are additional hidden screws under the removable round plastic covers. They will also have to be unscrewed.
3. Now you can use a knife blade or a flathead screwdriver to separate the plastic halves. By the way, you will also have to work hard here, since they are mounted on glue.
4. Perform all disassembly operations very carefully so as not to damage the plastic parts. Anything that was factory glued can be glued back together.

Often, users who have the skill to work with a soldering iron can disassemble and repair JBL wireless headphones themselves. A simple wire break is not a problem. When disassembling this type of malfunction, it is easy to detect and eliminate. Then you won’t have to throw away your old headphones and spend money on buying new ones.

Source: https://www.orgtech.info/kak-razobrat-naushniki-jbl/

We take apart what is unnecessary and create what is needed: how to make a very beautiful mirror from an old chandelier

Friends, I have a very cool project that I can share with you right now. I'm still euphoric because I ended up with incredible home decor that I made with my own hands. A beautiful mirror was created from an ordinary chandelier. You will learn right now how I managed such a transformation.

List of required materials and tools

In order to make an incredibly beautiful mirror from an old chandelier with your own hands, you must first prepare the following tools and materials:

• old chandelier;
• wire cutters;
• jewelry pliers;
• wood;
• blade;
• plywood sheet;
• round mirror (its diameter should be from 15 to 20 centimeters);
• leather gloves;
• dye;
• hot glue;
• picture hanging kit;
• sandpaper;
• wood burning tool.

Precautionary measures

Before we get started, let's talk about safety. Some colored glass lampshades can be made from colored plastic. Until you know for sure, wear protective gloves while working.

You also need to take precautions when working around or with lead found in stained glass. To determine whether your lamp has a lead tip or copper tape and solder, you need to carefully pry off the outer tip and remove it from the glass. If you see copper, then you can act boldly without fear of lead.

If you don't find the copper tape, stop and don't continue. There's a good chance your stained glass lampshade was made with lead. I do not recommend working with lead if you are inexperienced in this matter.

Dismantling the chandelier

Now let's start disassembling:

1. Take your wire cutters and carefully cut them into the edge of the glass. Try working your wire cutters parallel rather than perpendicular first. This way the glass will not break.
2. Once you have a section, bend it away from the glass.
3. Avoid using glass as a lever as this may break the glass.
4. From time to time you can hear the crunching of glass. Most likely, you touched the edge of the glass with the wire cutters. Proceed carefully.

Make sure you use good leather gloves to protect yourself.

This process may take you some time, so be patient. Stained glass lamps are made to last, so disassembling them will not be easy.

Using a wood burning tool

I worked from the outside when disassembling the lampshade and this is probably the best way. Before starting with the white glass center section, I had to remove the metal ring that held the bulb and cord in place.

1. Use wire cutters and cut into the center hole.
2. Grab the cut piece with a pair of wire cutters and twist the metal piece as if you were opening a tin can.
3. Be patient and keep working on small sections.
4. To disassemble the final section, use a special wood burning tool.
5. Continue working until you have separated all the sections from each other.

Cleaning glass parts

Before you move on to the next part of the project, you'll need to sand down the edges of your pieces.

1. While wearing gloves, use a razor blade to scrape away any remaining copper tape, solder, or other sticky material from the face and edges of the parts.
2. Apply a little glass cleaner. Clean the glass. If necessary, use the blade again.
3. Finally, use sandpaper to lightly sand the edges of the glass. This will remove any remaining dirt or green patina that may be present in the copper.

Mirror decoration

Let's move on to the most interesting part, the design of the mirror.

1. Lay out some white paper. The paper should be larger than the mirror.
2. Reassemble all your pieces in the same order they were previously in.
3. Find something to use as your center circle. A yogurt jar worked for my model.
4. Align everything the way you want.
5. I made sure that the points of the white and dark blue pieces were aligned and that there was space between the white pieces.

Making a sketch

Now that the pieces are arranged in the order you would like your mirror design to appear, trace the outer edge with a pencil.

1. Transfer each piece to another piece of paper in the exact order because no two pieces of glass are the same.
2. Mark the top of your sample.
3. Trace the center circle.

For my mirror, I outlined only the dark blue glass and then arced the pieces together.

Making the mirror base

Cut out the traced design and then place the design on a sheet of plywood. Be sure to transfer the designation for the top onto the plywood. Stick to the pattern to ensure the build process is successful.

1. Cut your template onto the plywood using a jigsaw with a blade of at least 15 teeth every two and a half centimeters for a smoother finish.
2. Use a special sponge to sand the edges to avoid any rough edges.
3. Transfer this top mark to the back of the plywood.
4. Cover the board with several coats of paint.

Build process

Once the paint is dry, it's time to assemble the mirror. Find the mark you made for the top of the design and place it in the same place as the glass you transferred after tracing the outline.

1. Take the paper template and line it up on top of the plywood so that all the edges line up.
2. Make an indent below the mirror using a pen.
3. Place the yogurt jar in the center of the plywood where you made the indentations.
4. Assemble your template, now we are just doing a dry fit.
5. Finish by attaching a mirror in the center.

Hot glue takes a long time to dry - 24 hours and 72 hours to fully cure.

I placed my design in the sun so that everything would dry much faster. Once the glue has completely cured, you can attach the structure to the mirror in order to hang pictures.

And now you can find a place for your incredible decor, which you were able to make yourself. My mirror turned out even better than I expected. I am very pleased with my work.

Source: https://www.nastroy.net/post/nenuzhnoe-razbiraem-a-nuzhnoe-sozdaem-kak-sdelat-ochen-krasivoe-zerkalo-iz-staroj-lyustry

How to repair a soldering iron with your own hands video

If you, a fellow hobbyist, have already “outgrown” a soldering iron with a voltage regulator, but have not yet “grown up” in your ambitions to a professional soldering station, then this might be interesting. The ability to change the supply voltage of a soldering iron designed for 220 V, among other things, allows you to return to operation an already burnt-out one.

And use it in the future, for example, with a switching power supply from an imported TV, which at the output gives exactly half of the network one. Bringing these two products together results in an intermediate option between a soldering iron with a regulator and a full-fledged soldering station. Any radio amateur can do this.

I’ll show you how to do this using the example of changing the supply voltage of a Chinese-made soldering iron, which was not trustworthy for use without modification.

Disassembling the soldering iron

To disassemble the soldering iron, it was necessary to completely unscrew two screws connecting the protective casing to the heating element and holding the tip, and three self-tapping screws securing the working part to the handle. Remove the insulation from the wires and unscrew the connecting twists.

Mica with soldering iron spiral

There is a heating element inside the protective casing. That's what they have to do. It is necessary to change the amount of wound nichrome wire - change the resistance of the heating element. Now it is 1800 Ohms, 400 Ohms are needed. Why exactly so much? Currently working with a UPS, the soldering iron has a resistance of 347 Ohms, its power is from 19 to 28 W, there is a desire to make the second one less powerful, so I added Ohms.

Soldering iron rewind

Winding a soldering iron tip

The tip is reinserted into the heater, clamped with screws and into the drill chuck. If you disassemble and unwind excess nichrome while holding the heating element in your hands, then everything will be much more complicated. The tie wire is removed.

The released fiberglass and mica wrappers are removed. In the mica on the side of the tip, there is a slot into which a conductor is inserted, going from the nichrome to the network wire - therefore, the weakened mica wrapper is removed from it rather than unwinding. Mica is a very fragile material. The end of the nichrome wire wound to the conductor is disconnected. Its thickness is just over 4 microns.

Nichrome must be wound onto something round; the ideal option is a spool of thread. He unscrewed it, rewinded it, and so on until the end. There is no need to disconnect the second end of the nichrome wire.

Soldering iron wire resistance

Now you need to wind a length of 400 Ohms, and in centimeters it will be approximately 70 (the total length of nichrome wire 300 cm is 1800 Ohms, hence 400 Ohms will be 66.66 cm). At a length of 70 cm, a latch (clothespin) is placed and in the hanging position of the coil, slightly guiding with your fingers, winding is carried out at intervals ensuring its termination at the first conductor. The number of attempts is not limited, the main thing is not to tear the nichrome. At the end of winding, a control resistance measurement is required.

As soon as we manage to wind the required amount of nichrome, we cut the wire with an allowance of 1 - 2 cm and wind it to the conductor. We put on the mica winding, passing the conductor into the slot in it and press it against it (naturally on top of it).

We install a fiberglass winding on top and, compacting it by pressing, wind the binding wire. A heating element designed for power supply voltage of 85 – 106 V is assembled.

Soldering iron assembly

Since the working part was previously attached to the handle with incomprehensibly clumsy and short screws, they had to be replaced. To do this, holes for new screws were deepened in the attachment points on the handle.

Before connecting the power cable with the conductors going to the nichrome heater, a plastic clamp was installed and adjusted on it.

The casing of the heating element ends with a kind of cooling radiator, through holes in it and is attached to the handle. To increase the cooling effect, the gap between it and the handle was increased using metal washers.

Tests

Soldering iron current consumption 190 mA

The UPS with which the soldering iron will work at the output under load gives from 85 to 106 V. Current consumption is 190 mA, this is at the minimum voltage. Power 16 W.

Soldering iron current consumption 240 mA

At maximum voltage, current consumption is 260 mA. Power 26 W. The desired has been received.

Finally, a test for heating duration. Up to 257 degrees in 2 minutes 20 seconds. An excellent result, if you take into account that from a 225 V network it heated up to 250 degrees in 5 and a half minutes.

Table. Dependence of the resistance of the heating element on the power and voltage of the soldering iron

And here is a table that will help you navigate the required resistance of the heating element, depending on the desired power and the available supply voltage. Author: Babay iz Barnaula.

An electric soldering iron is a hand-held tool designed for fastening parts together using soft solders, by heating the solder to a liquid state and filling the gap between the parts being soldered with it.

Electrical circuit of a soldering iron

As you can see in the drawing, the electrical circuit of the soldering iron is very simple, and consists of only three elements: a plug, a flexible electrical wire and a nichrome spiral.

As can be seen from the diagram, the soldering iron does not have the ability to adjust the heating temperature of the tip.

And even if the power of the soldering iron is chosen correctly, it is still not a fact that the temperature of the tip will be required for soldering, since the length of the tip decreases over time due to its constant refilling; solders also have different melting temperatures.

Therefore, in order to maintain the optimal temperature of the soldering iron tip, it is necessary to connect it through thyristor power regulators with manual adjustment and automatic maintenance of the set temperature of the soldering iron tip.

Source: https://master-kleit.ru/origami/kak-otremontirovat-pajalnik-svoimi-rukami-video/