How to solder with a thin tip

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron - working with a soldering iron and its features

The soldering process itself is not complicated - we prepare the parts, treat them with flux, heat them up, and add solder in the soldering area. But, as in any business, there are some nuances that you need to know in order to get a quality result.

What is the soldering process?

Soldering is performed when two parts need to be joined.

Before the process, it is necessary to prepare the components: clean them from dirt and remove the oxide film at the soldering site, since the presence of even slight dirt or oxidation will prevent reliable joining of the materials.

When choosing solder, you need to be guided by the rule - the melting temperature of the solder should be lower than the melting temperature of the elements that are planned to be connected.

Procedure for soldering technology:

The surfaces of the parts must be cleaned of dirt, rust, oxide film, etc., so that the base metal shines. To remove oxidation and prevent it in the future, it is necessary to coat the parts at the joint with flux. You can apply it with a brush in a thin layer.

An alternative to the second step is a processing option called tinning. Mainly used for processing wires. The stripped wire is placed on rosin, heated with a soldering iron, the wire must be turned so that it is all in the molten rosin, then a thin layer of molten solder is applied, which chemically connects with the base metal (you can take a drop of solder directly with a soldering iron and apply it to the part).

The parts are connected mechanically: for example, when working with wires, you need to twist them; The output elements on the board are fixed with plasticine, wax or hot glue; other parts can be clamped with pliers or a vice.

Additional flux is applied to avoid oxidation when heated. Solder is applied with a heated soldering iron.

For ease of understanding, we attach photo instructions on how to solder correctly.

Types of soldering irons

In everyday life, networked soldering irons operating on a voltage of 220 V are common.

Professionals prefer soldering stations. Their main advantage is the presence of a thermostat, thanks to which the set temperature is stably ensured.

In the case of network soldering irons, the temperature is determined by the rosin or flux; when the soldering iron is ready for use, they begin to boil well, but should not be allowed to burn.

For home use, you can purchase two soldering irons with low (40-60 W) and medium power (100 W). A low-power soldering iron is designed for soldering parts in electronics.

Flux

This is a mixture for removing oxidation from metal parts before the soldering process. Flux treatment allows the solder to better spread over the joint and protect it from corrosion when heated. Flux can be found in the form of liquid, paste and powder. It is, of course, more convenient to apply liquid flux.

Fluxes can be rosin, ammonia, boric and orthophosphoric acids, and regular aspirin tablets.

It is easy to find flux on sale for any type of work, and as a rule, the label already indicates how and for what materials to use it. This allows you not to engage in amateur activities, but to use an already prepared mixture, which will avoid surprises in the form of soot.

Rosin is a popular flux, has a pleasant odor when heated, and is non-toxic. How to solder with a soldering iron with rosin: you can immediately take the liquid version of rosin, it is more convenient. If we are dealing with solid rosin, then first you need to melt it with a soldering iron and apply it to the soldering site with a tip.

Rosin is suitable for soldering copper conductors, radio and electrical elements, and behaves well with gold and silver. Residues of rosin after soldering must be removed to prevent metal corrosion.

Alcohol-rosin flux (abbreviated SKF) is rosin with alcohol in proportions of one to three. It is used in the same cases as regular rosin. Easier to use due to its liquid state.

Solder

Solder has a lower melting point than the material of the elements being joined, so when hot it envelops the joint, and after cooling the two parts become one. At what temperature to solder depends on the chemical composition of the parts and the selected solder.

Alloys used as solders:

• tin+lead
• copper
• cadmium
• nickel
• silver, etc.

Lead-tin solders PIC are most often found on the market. The abbreviation PIC is followed by a numerical value that indicates the amount of tin. The higher it is, the more tin, which has a positive effect on the strength and electrical conductivity of the future connection.

This tip will help you figure out how to solder with tin correctly; rosin is usually chosen as the flux (the most convenient option is tin wire, which already has rosin inside).

Lead serves as a regulator of the solidification process, since tin without this auxiliary element will crack and become covered with needles. Lead can be replaced by indium or zinc (lead-free solders).

For aluminum, you will need to choose specialized flux (F-61A, F-34A) and solder (there are different options).

Soldering iron tips

Almost all tips are made of copper, available with or without coating. Chrome-plated and nickel-plated tips are more heat-resistant, durable and not subject to oxidation.

Uncoated tips require constant cleaning, since when they oxidize they stop working efficiently (the solder does not stick). And during cleaning, the tip wears off quite quickly.

The choice of tip shape depends on the task at hand, but the awl and spatula shapes are considered universal.

Shutdown

After working with the soldering iron is completed, you need to clear the solder tip, and you can turn off the soldering iron. The hot tip needs to be inserted into the solid rosin and wait for it to cool, remove the tip, the excess rosin will drain and the soldering iron, which has now completely cooled, can be put back in place.

Armed with good theoretical knowledge of how to solder correctly with a soldering iron, in practice you can achieve success in this matter.

Photo tips on how to solder correctly with a soldering iron

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How to solder brass: methods, review of materials, instructions

An alloy of copper and zinc, known since ancient times, is widely used in our time. Brass has high strength, is resistant to corrosion, and is ductile. Thanks to these properties, it is used to make parts of mechanisms and structural elements that are forced to constantly come into contact with aggressive environments.

Despite the reliability of the material, brass products sometimes develop various defects that require repair - breaks, holes, cracks. One way to restore elements is soldering. This process is not very complicated, but it has its own characteristics, so it is extremely important to know how to solder brass.

Familiarity with soldering technology will allow you to successfully carry out such work even at home.

What are the features of the technology?

This method of producing permanent joints is not as popular as welding. The reason is lower solder strength. Seams are formed by melting a filler material called solder. The most important difference between soldering is the melting temperature, which should be lower than that of the elements being connected. They do not change the state of aggregation, which makes it possible to reliably fasten dissimilar materials.

The low-temperature effect on the surface to be soldered has made soldering indispensable, and in some cases the only possible: for example, when it is necessary to obtain a permanent connection of dissimilar metals. The integrity of the processed parts is the main advantage of such a technological operation, since it allows you to work with the smallest elements without fear of their deformation or change in structure.

Soldering is especially relevant in electronics, where you have to work with miniature, very fragile microcircuits, and in electrical engineering, when there is a need to connect or extend conductors.

Classification of brass alloys

Brass can be double or multi-component. In the first case, the composition includes only copper and zinc, which increases the hardness of the alloy. Other components that improve its physical and chemical characteristics include aluminum, iron, silicon, manganese, nickel, tin, lead and other elements. For this reason, it is necessary to know exactly the composition of brass in advance; this will help determine the method, as well as the specifics of soldering.

Brass is classified according to its chemical composition:

1. Two-component (double, simple). It consists only of copper and zinc. The percentage of these components may vary. These compositions are marked with the letter “L” and a number, which always indicates the amount of copper. For example, L90 contains from 88 to 91% copper, zinc accounts for 8.8-12%. There are impurities, but their amount is minimal - about 0.2%.
2. Multicomponent (special). This brass has a large number of ingredients that increase the corrosion resistance of the alloy, its strength, and hardness. It is marked differently: another one is added to the letter “L”, meaning the alloying element, and another number appears - the percentage of alloying metal. For example, LA77-2 is aluminum brass, it contains 77% copper, about 2% aluminum, and the rest is zinc. All such alloys are named after the alloying element: ferrous, silicon, nickel, manganese, lead, etc.

Brass is used to make various products. According to the degree of processing, these alloys are divided into:

• deformable, they are used to produce bolts, nuts, car parts, brass strips, sheets, wire, pipes, pipes;
• foundry (fittings, bushings, instrument parts, bearings, car hydraulic system fittings).

Based on the percentage of zinc, brass is divided into:

1. Red (tompak), containing 5-10% of this component. Such alloys are ideal for jewelry, figurines and similar artistic products.
2. Yellow, here the percentage of zinc is 21-36%.

The reason for the popularity of brass is its durability, reliability, resistance to temperature changes and mechanical stress. Therefore, parts made from this alloy are widely used in water supply systems, sewerage systems, and in mechanical and instrument making. Brass products have a long service life, but this is only true if their operating rules are not violated.

Efficiency and obstacles

There are several technologies that allow you to easily weld parts or products made of brass, but they are not simple, promise significant costs, and require certain work skills from the master. Soldering is an alternative that is technologically simpler, which means this option is also suitable for a home craftsman, since there is no need for a highly qualified performer.

If the zinc content in the alloy is not too high, then there are no insurmountable obstacles on the way to the goal: simple soldering using ordinary rosin can cope with the task. When the percentage of this metal in brass exceeds 15, special fluxes are required.

The reason is strong evaporation during soldering of copper and zinc; it leads to the formation of a strong oxide film on the material, and it is quite difficult to remove it. Therefore, without special solders and neutralizing fluxes, an ideal result cannot be achieved.

Selection of optimal materials

Before looking for the best option for soldering brass, you need to determine its brand. Only in this case can an acceptable result of the operation be guaranteed.

Choosing the right solder

This is the material, usually an alloy, that is used to solder the elements. its peculiarity is its melting point, which must be lower than that of the metals being joined. Typical examples of alloys are tin and lead, pure tin.

However, the quality, mechanical strength of such a clutch and appearance are very far from ideal. The reasons for poor quality are pores that appear as a result of zinc evaporation.

To ensure reliable contact, the melting temperature of the material must be significantly lower than brass, and the solder must have excellent adhesion to this alloy.

1. For soldering brass containing a large amount of copper, it is better to take compositions related to copper-zinc solders, since as a result of the addition of zinc, the melting point of these alloys is reduced. For example, PMC54 and PMC-48 solders melt at a temperature of 880°, PMC-36 - at 800-825°.
2. For the same alloys, you can use silver solders - grades from PSr12 to PSr72. If brass has a higher zinc content, then similar solders are recommended, but not lower than PSr40.
3. Relatively inexpensive copper-phosphorus solders are MF-1, MF-2, MF-3. They are plastic, but have good electrical conductivity. If the mechanical and vibration loads are high, then it is better to purchase solders with silver.
4. If it is necessary to guarantee special strength, then hard copper alloys are chosen: for example, the universal L-CuP6.

The latest brand of solder has a temperature range of 710-880. It is designed to work with bronze, red bronze, brass, as well as copper, when installing pipes, radiators, and heating systems. When using silver or phosphorus solders, it must be taken into account that brass dissolves rapidly, so the processing time (heating and soldering) must be reduced.

Fluxes: homemade or ready-made

Fluxes clean the surface of metals from grease and also prevent the formation of an oxide film. They are also selected depending on the composition of the alloys. For copper compounds, rosin alone is sufficient, but for brass a more aggressive agent is already needed. The simplest flux option for soldering brass is a mixture of borax and boric acid (1:1). It is poured with water (5 mm per 1 g), boiled, stirring, then cooled. However, the best characteristics are possessed by “professionals” - purchased compounds.

1. Borax flux. He has been known for a very long time, but since then he has not lost his fans. The reason for its popularity is its high-quality work.
2. Other brands are no less effective: PV-209 (from 700 to 900°), PV-209X (from 650 to 850°).

Source: https://dom-i-remont.info/posts/obshhie-voprosy/kak-payat-latun-kak-vyibrat-flyus-pripoy-i-podhodyashhiy-instrument/

Basics of HIGH-QUALITY SOLDERING techniques without errors

13.09.2012

To learn how to solder correctly, you need to prepare: a soldering iron (how to choose the right soldering iron), a soldering iron stand, a wooden block, solder, flux, pliers or tweezers, side cutters. Before soldering, the soldering iron must be prepared. To do this, use a file to sharpen the soldering iron tip to 45 degrees ( this is especially true for a new soldering iron, because...

anti-carbon coating on the tip of a new soldering iron, prevents tinning of the soldering iron tip and, accordingly, the removal of solder).

After you have cleaned the soldering iron tip, turn it on and when it warms up to the melting temperature of the solder, lightly process the soldering iron tip with a file until a shine appears on the working part of the tip, and immediately after that touch the tip of the tip to the flux and solder.

There should be some solder left on the tip of the soldering iron tip; then you just need to rub the tip of the soldering iron tip with the working surface on a prepared wooden block. After this, the soldering iron can be considered prepared for further work. During operation, to keep the soldering iron tip clean, from time to time wipe the soldering iron tip with a cloth folded in several layers.

Before soldering the radio component, it should be prepared. Using narrow pliers or tweezers, bend the leads of the part so that they fit into the holes of the board ( this is called forming the leads of radio elements ).

It is useful to have a special device for molding the leads of parts to certain distances between the mounting holes. Insert the part into the holes on the board. At the same time, ensure the correct placement (polarity - if any) of parts, for example, diodes or electrolytic capacitors.

After this, slightly spread the leads on the opposite side of the board so that the part does not fall out of its seat. The conclusions should not be spread too far apart.

Let's start soldering!

To properly solder the element, place the soldering iron tip between the terminal and the board, as shown in the figure, and heat the soldering area. The heating time should be no more than 3-5 seconds so as not to damage the part or board.

After 1-2 seconds, bring the solder to the soldering area. When solder touches the soldering iron tip, flux may splatter. After the required amount of solder has melted, move the wire away from the soldering area. Hold the soldering iron tip against the soldering area for a second to ensure the solder is evenly distributed across the soldering area. After this, without moving the part, remove the soldering iron. Without moving the part, wait a few moments until the soldering area has completely cooled down.

Now you can cut off the excess leads using side cutters. When doing this, be careful not to damage the soldering area.

Criteria for high-quality soldering!

• A high-quality solder joint connects the pad and the lead of the part and has a smooth and shiny surface.
• If the solder joint is spherical or connected to adjacent pads, heat the solder joint until the solder melts and remove excess solder. There is always a small amount of solder left on the soldering iron tip.
• If the soldering area has a matte surface and looks scratched, then it is called “cold soldering”. Heat it until the solder melts and let it cool without moving the parts. Add a little solder if necessary. After this, you can remove any remaining flux from the board using a suitable solvent. This operation is optional - the flux can remain on the board. It does not interfere and in no way affects the functioning of the circuit (for the aesthetics of the appearance of the board, it is better, of course, to remove the remaining flux).

Various soldering methods

How to solder correctly? The paragraphs below should answer this question. They are intended for beginner radio amateurs looking for more than just theoretical knowledge.

Soldering loose wires

Let's get started with practice from the very first example. It is necessary to connect the LED with a limiting resistance and solder the power cable to them. There are no mounting pins, plates or other accessories used here. The following operations must be performed:1. Strip the insulation from the ends of the wire. The thin copper conductors are absolutely clean because they have been protected from oxygen and moisture by insulation.

2. Twist the individual wires of the core. This way you can prevent their subsequent fraying.

3. Tinning the ends of the wires is very important for proper soldering. During tinning, the heated tip of the soldering iron must be brought to the wire simultaneously with the solder. The wire must be heated well so that the solder is evenly distributed over the surface of the bundle. Light rubbing with the tip helps distribute the solder along the entire length of the tinning plate.

4. Shorten the leads of the LED and resistor and also tin them. Although the leads were tinned during the manufacture of radioelements, a thin layer of oxides could form on them during storage. After tinning, the surface will be clean again. If very old radio components are used, soldered from any boards, they are usually heavily oxidized. The leads of such parts must be cleaned of oxides before tinning, for example, by scraping them with a knife.
5.

While holding the leads to be connected parallel to each other, apply a small amount of melted solder to them. The soldering area should warm up quickly, and the solder consumption should be 2-3 mm (with a diameter of 1.5 mm). As soon as the solder evenly fills the gaps between the connected leads, you need to quickly remove the soldering iron. The soldering area must be left undisturbed until the solder has completely hardened.

If the parts move earlier, microcracks will form in the soldering, reducing the mechanical and electrical properties of the connection.

A little theory

Soldering is the joining of metals using another, more fusible metal. In electronics, as a rule, they use solder containing 60% tin and 40% lead (POS - 40, POS - 60), as you yourself guessed, the numbers in the solder type designation indicate the percentage of tin in the solder.

This alloy melts already at 180 degrees Celsius. Modern solders used in soldering electronic circuits are produced in the form of thin tubes filled with a special resin (rosin), which acts as a flux. The heated solder creates an internal bond with metals such as copper, brass, silver, etc.

, if the following conditions are met:

• The surfaces of the parts to be soldered must be cleaned, that is, the oxide films formed over time must be removed from them.
• The part at the soldering site must be heated to a temperature exceeding the melting point of the solder. Certain difficulties arise in the case of large surfaces with good thermal conductivity, since the power of the soldering iron may not be enough to heat it.
• During the soldering process, the soldering area must be protected from exposure to atmospheric oxygen. This task is performed by flux (rosin), which forms a protective film over the soldering material. Flux is contained in the solder in the form of a thin core. When solder melts, it is distributed over the surface of the liquid metal.

Typical beginner mistakes and methods for correcting them

• Novice installers only touch the soldering area with the tip of the soldering iron tip. In this case, not enough heat is supplied. An experienced installer has a sense of optimal heat transfer. He places the soldering iron tip in such a way that the largest possible contact area is formed between it and the soldering point. In addition, he very quickly introduces a little solder between the tip and the part as a heat conductor.
• Novice installers melt a little solder and, with some delay, bring it to the desired location. In this case, part of the flux evaporates, the solder does not have a protective layer and an oxide film forms on it. A professional, on the contrary, always touches the soldering area with both a soldering iron and solder. In this case, the soldering area is enveloped in a drop of pure melt before the flux has time to evaporate.
• Novice installers are often unsure whether the solder area is overheated. They move the soldering iron tip away from the soldering point too early, then they are forced to bring it back in for heating, move it back again, etc. The result is a gray soldering joint with uneven boundaries, since the parts being joined were not heated hot enough, and the process itself took too long and the rosin had time to evaporate. The master, on the contrary, heats the soldering area quickly and intensely and completes the process abruptly and completely. He rewards himself with a smooth, silvery solder surface.

Once you learn how to solder, you can buy a soldering iron with temperature control on Aliexpress; we have made a selection of popular models in a separate article.

    Material from the site lessonradio.narod.ru revised and expanded.

SOLDERING BASICS Link to main publication

Source: https://www.radioingener.ru/osnovy-pajki/

How to Record a Song in Adobe Audition

How to learn to solder. I decided to prepare just such a small special lesson, not directly related to the main topic, for those who not only have to solder cords, sockets, plugs, but anything else in general. So, let's begin

What do we need for soldering?

Of course, a soldering iron (ideally a soldering station), tin solder, rosin, ideally solder wire, which is a long, thin tin tube wound on a reel, similar to a wire, in the cavity of which there is rosin. Those. when soldering, in this case, we do not need, as in the old fashioned way, to lower the tip of the soldering iron, now into the rosin, now into the solder, but all this happens simultaneously at one point. More on this below

You can purchase all the necessary components at your nearest radio store.

If you do not have a soldering station, which is initially ready for soldering immediately after switching on, but a regular soldering iron, then before work (especially if it is new) you need to prepare it in a special way - tin it, otherwise it will not solder. Now let’s look at what “tinning” means.

How to tin a soldering iron?

Take a file and apply it flat to the cut of the soldering iron tip. Now we sharpen in the same plane, periodically looking at the tip, until it becomes flat, smooth and shiny.

After this, we lower the heated tip into rosin and immediately into solder (into tin). There will be almost no solder sticking to the tip, so immediately after this procedure we apply the tip to a small board, preferably of natural origin (not chipboard), preferably spruce or cedar (resinous), but in principle, any will do, you’ll just have to mess around longer.

So, we repeat this procedure (rosin → solder → board) until the cut of the tip, prepared in advance with a file, made of yellow-gray heated copper, becomes silvery and shiny from the solder evenly covering it. This is what is called “tinning”, in this case a soldering iron.

This is what a tinned soldering iron tip should look like.

Now we will learn to solder wires (after tinning it) to a brass tin, also tinning it from the beginning.

We dip the soldering iron tip into rosin, then into solder, and immediately, with the plane of the tip parallel to the plane, we bring it close to our brass test subject, without allowing the rosin to evaporate, we press it, then we rub it in, we grind, in general, we tin. If the rosin has evaporated or spread, we repeat the process, and gradually, gradually our tin is covered with high-quality solder adhering to it. If the material is clean or without strong oxides, then such tinning occurs quickly.

If solder wire is used, then we lean the tip of the soldering iron against the tin, and bring the tip of the solder wire to the point of their contact, trying to touch more of the tinned part of the soldering iron, and rub it against this part so that the tin and rosin enrich the contact point.

How to tin a wire?

Now let's tinker with the wiring. Carefully remove the insulation just enough so that we have enough space for soldering, and for the location of the heat-shrink tube (or other insulator) so that later there are no short circuits (short circuits)

It is easier to tin the wire, because Usually, the metal under the insulation is clean, not oxidized. We dip it in rosin, placing the tip of a heated soldering iron on top of it and slowly pull the wire out from under the soldering iron after the rosin melts and starts smoking. This is done, as you probably understood, so that the molten rosin envelops the contact part of the wire. Now we enrich the soldering iron tip with solder, touching the tin, and bring the tip to the rosin adhering to the wiring.

If the wire is copper and clean, tinning will occur immediately.

If not, you may have to repeat the operation or use solder paste instead of rosin - a special chemical (like soldering acid, if anyone is familiar) that allows you to tin, for example, even iron.

This is what solder paste looks like.

How to solder a wire?

We have a tinned experimental brass tin and a tinned wire, which we now have to connect, seal with heated solder and then cool in order to forever maintain their electrical connection, which we do by bringing the tinned part of the wire to the tinned part of the tin.

We bring the soldering iron tip enriched with solder to the place of their contact so that the solder covers the tinned parts of the soldered parts well. This will be facilitated by the rosin involved in the process. If something doesn’t go well, dip into it. Once the parts are in the molten solder, try not to move them anymore. You can lightly blow on the solder area until the shine of the solder darkens slightly, indicating that the solder has hardened.

That's it, congratulations! You did it.

How to unsolder the wire?

You can unsolder wires and various soldered joints using the reverse method - by heating the soldering area (tinned and dipped in rosin, heated) with a soldering iron tip until the solder melts.

And probably the final touch - you can also dip a small paint brush into the solvent and wash off the remaining rosin in the soldering areas.

What can you solder?

More precisely, what metals are good to solder? In the first place, this is, of course, copper, brass, gold, silver, lead, and, of course, tin. It is worse to solder (tin) iron, steel, zinc. To tin the latter, you will have to use a special solder paste (see figure above). There are also metals that cannot be soldered at all, for example aluminum.

Source: http://www.auditionrich.com/umelye-ruchki/kak-nauchitsya-payat.html

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron: instructions for beginners

When a novice electrician watches a master work with a soldering iron, all the actions seem simple and understandable.

However, as soon as you pick up the tool yourself, troubles immediately begin: the solder does not hold, the contacts fall off, the insulation burns, the tip becomes covered with soot.

To prevent this from happening, certain rules must be followed.

The master knows them and fulfills them. For a beginner, I advise you to first understand how to solder correctly with a soldering iron. Only after that do you take on this work.

3 main secrets: posture, light and air

Even at home, to perform high-quality soldering, a comfortable worker position with good lighting is required. I recommend installing a desktop near a window that receives sunlight during the day and an artificial source of light in the evening.

Soldering involves heating substances and releasing fumes. Although heated rosin smells like pine needles, this smell is still harmful if inhaled frequently. And other fluxes and acids are even more dangerous. Entering the body through the respiratory system, they accumulate and cause chronic diseases.

Therefore, ventilation is important. Work with an open window, or even better, use forced exhaust.

Useful devices

A short tin with a paper lining is necessary for working with solder and rosin.

A special stand helps to store a heated soldering iron, and a sponge allows you to clean the hot tip from oxides.

It is convenient to remove excess melted solder with a desoldering pump.

Working with small objects is made easier by tweezers, small vices, and “third hand” devices. The simplest option: regular pliers with an elastic band.

You can make other simple designs with your own hands.

Selecting and preparing a soldering iron

The sale offers various models with voltage from 12 to 220 or 380 volts. Each soldering iron is created for a specific job, although it has universal capabilities.

They are assessed by the power consumption of electrical energy, which is spent on heating the tip of the tip.

It is convenient to solder radio components with a soldering iron with a power of 40÷60 watts, and for wires choose 80÷100.

For beginner soldering ironers, it is enough to use simple models of two soldering iron designs with:

1. heating from nichrome wire and a copper rod;
2. ceramic insert and copper tip with nickel coating.

The first type of soldering iron is cheaper, but it requires constant care of the tip, takes longer to heat up to the desired temperature, and wears out faster.

A soldering iron with a ceramic insert works better, but is more expensive. In addition, ceramics require careful handling. It can break due to mechanical shock.

Personal preferences

I have been using transformer soldering irons of the “Moment” type for more than 30 years.

Some people don't like it because of the extra weight. But for me this indicator is not critical. The industrial wattage of 65 is good for amateur radio soldering, but it is not enough for connecting electrical wires.

Therefore, I assembled a more powerful structure with my own hands.

This technology is described in a separate article on the website.

About counterfeit brands

For a long time I could not understand why I like transformer soldering irons, but they are massively criticized on the Internet. Even in the above article, readers expressed a negative opinion about them, criticizing their fragility and poor quality.

I realized this only after a visitor to my site sent me a burnt-out soldering iron from the Chinese company Licota for experiments.

It looks very nice, is light in weight, fits comfortably in the hand and is originally packaged. Upon closer examination of it, I discovered many installation and design defects. I wrote them down in separate articles:

When buying cheap soldering irons from dubious sellers, you can end up with low-quality products, lose money and time. Please pay attention to electrical performance and warranties.

There are other different types of soldering irons designed to get professional work done well. But it’s better to start learning soldering using the models described above.

About sharpening the tip

Cleanliness is not only a guarantee of our health, but also a guarantee of high-quality soldering. It must be observed during work.

The copper tip of the soldering iron heats up to such a state that oxides and carbon deposits form on it. When they penetrate the solder, you can forget about the quality of the soldering. Therefore, the tip of the tip should always be clean and well sharpened.

Its shape is created for a specific type of parts to be soldered:

• The “flat head screwdriver” transfers heat well. It is used to heat massive parts;
• A “pyramid” or “sharp cone” makes it more convenient to control the amount of heating. It is used to connect small radio elements or thin wires;
• The “blunted cone” is sharpened for soldering medium-section wires.

The first type of sharpening is more popular. It can be formed by hammer blows. Then the metal is better compacted and retains its properties longer.

By placing this tip on the part to be soldered with a plane or an acute angle, you can regulate the degree of its heating.

Modern ceramic soldering irons have a set of removable tips of the most necessary shapes. They are coated with a layer of nickel on top and do not require sharpening or preparatory treatment.

How to tin a copper tip

The tip of a new soldering iron without a protective nickel coating must be coated with a thin layer of solder, which will protect it from carbon deposits and premature wear. For this:

1. the soldering iron is turned on under voltage, heating the tip to working condition;
2. immerse it in a piece of rosin;
3. melt the solder, distributing it over the surface of the tip tip. It is convenient to use a wooden object.

What are the soldering steps?

The main objective of this technology is to connect two metal parts, most often conductors, with a low-melting alloy so that they hold firmly and pass electric current with the lowest possible resistance.

To do this, you need to perform a series of actions sequentially. Let's look at them using the example of soldering wires. This:

• removing insulation from the connected ends of the wire;
• mechanical stripping of metal cores to an ideal state of oxides;
• heat treatment with flux - tinning the ends with a thin layer;
• heating the solder and applying it to the soldering area.

Removing insulation

The dielectric layer of the wire can be made of polyethylene, fabric, varnish or other similar material. It needs to be removed.

This work is best done with a sharp knife, placing its blade almost parallel to the axis of the metal core. This prevents cutting and deep scratches. They weaken mechanical strength and increase electrical resistance. This cannot be allowed.

Thin wires coated with varnish can simply be treated with an open flame of matches or a lighter. The same method is suitable for twisted pair and even thicker wires.

There are special pliers of various designs on sale for stripping insulation from the end of a wire of any diameter. They allow this work to be done professionally without damaging the core.

After removing the insulation, the condition of the metal surface is assessed. Pay attention to cleanliness, absence of dents and cuts.

Removing dirt and oxide film

Only pure metal can ensure a high-quality connection of parts when soldering. It is created by mechanical cleaning of the surface and chemical solutions.

First, they work with a knife blade, lightly pressing it against the contaminated metal at an obtuse angle. The core is pulled from the insulation layer to the bare end, rotating slightly in one direction. The metal will immediately lose its dullness and begin to shine.

Chemical cleaning involves treatment with solvents, alcohol, and FES flux.

Tinning of contact pads

The final cleaning of the metal surface of the conductor is carried out by heat treatment with flux, using a tinned soldering iron tip. The most popular and universal remedy is rosin. It is used in a solid state, dissolved in alcohol or jelly-like.

The sale allows you to purchase rosin in any form and provides a wide range of other fluxes.

For soldering parts of electrical circuits, it is not recommended to use fluxes containing acids . They are quite difficult to completely neutralize, and even minor residues quickly oxidize the metal and destroy its structure.

The sequence of tinning a wire core with solid rosin:

1. Heat the soldering iron to the desired temperature. It can range from 180 to 240 degrees and depends on the solder and the metal parts being connected. To control the heating, the tips are touched with a tip of solid rosin. If it begins to rapidly form steam, then heating is normal.
2. The cleaned conductor is placed on the rosin and touched with the tip of the soldering iron. The wire is rotated to coat it evenly with molten flux.
3. The tip of a soldering iron melts the solder and applies it to the rosin-treated wire, evenly distributing it over the surface.

A solution of rosin in alcohol is applied with a brush to the surface to be tinned or simply dripped through a dropper tube.

Jelly-like rosin is squeezed out of a special syringe, which is very convenient to do.

The conductor treated with liquid or jelly-like rosin is heated with a heated soldering iron tip with a drop of solder, accelerating it over the entire contact area.

Direct soldering

It is started after both contact pads are prepared for connection: cleaned of dirt and oxides, tinned.

The soldered ends are connected together. A piece of solder is placed on them with a heated soldering iron, ensuring that it spreads over both areas. After this, the tip is sharply retracted to the side, and the parts remain motionless until the tin completely hardens. This is judged by a slight darkening of its color.

Correctly performed soldering is distinguished by a strong connection of contacts and a smooth surface of the solidified solder, which is slightly shiny. Its quality is checked using a small mechanical tensile force.

If the surface of the solder has darkening and unevenness, then the soldering is unreliable and needs to be corrected.

5 Tips for Creating Reliable Soldering

These include:

1. Warming up of the parts to be connected should be done not with the tip of the tip, but with its side surface. This provides greater contact and better temperature transfer. However, when working with a tip with a blunt tip or a transformer soldering iron, this advice will practically not help.
2. To give increased strength to the connection being created, additional twisting of the wires is done.
3. A mechanical device, the third hand, makes it easier to fix the stationary position of the parts being connected.
4. New electronic components are manufactured with tinned contact surfaces. If they are not contaminated in any way, then flux and solder can be immediately applied to them without prior tinning. This speeds up the soldering process.
5. The sale offers craftsmen tubular solder, inside of which there is a flux. Usually this is rosin. This combination is easier to work with: the number of intermediate operations is reduced due to the simultaneous supply of both components.

4 signs of high-quality soldering

The reliability of the connection is assessed by:

1. the bright shine of the created surface layer;
2. absence of excess solder on parts;
3. tensile strength of control mechanical force;
4. integrity of the insulation layer, absence of traces of melting.

Additionally, I recommend watching the video from the owner of AutoAndElectronics “How to solder correctly with a soldering iron.”

If you still have questions about this topic, then ask them in the comments. I will definitely answer.

Source: https://HouseDiz.ru/kak-payat-payalnikom-pravilno-instrukciya-dlya-novichkov/

Types of tips for soldering irons

In this article we will look at what types of soldering iron tips there are.

Types of tips for soldering irons

There are mainly two types of soldering iron tips: these are copper tips, which are still soldered by electronics veterans

and removable tips with nickel coating, which are soldered by young people and all those who understand the advantage of such tips

Nickel-plated tips require your own soldering iron, with temperature control and the ability to disassemble the soldering iron. Basically, such soldering irons are installed on a soldering station, for example, Lukey 702.

Types of nickel tips

I have the following nickel-plated tips in my kit:

1. Sting-needle. Honestly, it's a complete mess. As soon as you touch the solder, the tip cools down sharply and then stops heating the solder. Therefore, such a tip is only suitable for very small jewelry work.
2. Stinger-scapula . Used for desoldering and soldering large-sized radio elements. The physical meaning is that it quickly warms up the entire part without cooling down, because it has a large volume compared to other tips.
3. Sting-drop. It is very convenient for transferring a drop of solder on its tip, which in turn improves the quality of soldering and sealed radio components.
4. Curved tip. Very convenient for dismantling radio components paired with copper braiding to remove excess solder from the board. Convenient for soldering too.
5. An ordinary sting. A very versatile tip. It combines all the stings, therefore it is considered the most popular

How to change the tip?

The white stick sticking out of the soldering iron handle is the heating element. It is he who warms the soldering iron tip.

After disassembling the soldering iron, remove the tip and install another one. We assemble in reverse order.

How to set the soldering iron temperature correctly

In order to correctly set the temperature of the soldering iron, take the solder and touch it with the tip of the soldering iron. We increase the temperature at the soldering station and see when the solder starts to melt and sticks to the tip of the soldering iron. We seize this moment and stop increasing the temperature of the soldering station.

Don't confuse solder melting with solder softening. When the solder becomes like porridge, it means that the temperature of the soldering iron is still too low. We need to add a little more. The temperature indication is different on different soldering stations. For example, I set the temperature at my station to about 360-370 degrees.

Some electronics engineers set the temperature to 330-340, and some even 300. This suggests that the soldering iron temperature sensor is different for each soldering station. Most of all, cheap Chinese soldering stations, such as Lukey, lie about temperature.

But, moving a little away from the topic, I will say that these soldering stations have proven themselves very well, especially Lukey 702.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I will say a few more words about nickel-plated soldering iron tips. They, like all equipment, require maintenance. Under no circumstances should you clean such tips with sandpaper or a file! This will cause you to tear off the working layer, the tip will burn out and the solder will not stick to it.

I didn't know about this before and lost one of the stings . Do not allow the tip to overheat when soldering. Look at its color. The working area of ​​the tip should shine with a tin-lead color. If you see a purple-blue color, lower the temperature on the soldering station.

It is advisable to leave a fat drop of solder on such a tip after soldering and then turn off the soldering iron.

Never bring a hot tip near the power cord, otherwise you may receive an electric shock. Make sure that the power cord is always in good condition and never leave a hot tool unattended lying on a table other than a stand. Solder wisely!

Where to buy a soldering iron tip

The cheapest place to buy these tips is on Aliexpress using this link:

And there are also copper ones. They are better from a soldering point of view, since the thermal conductivity of copper is very high. The only negative is that such stings burn and eventually lose their original shape.

You can look at the copper tips at this link.

This article describes very informatively about soldering iron tips.

Source: https://www.RusElectronic.com/zhalo-dlja-pajalnika/

How to learn to solder with a hand soldering iron + step-by-step instructions

Teaching is the mother of creation! And even if the creation is considered to be just ordinary work with an electric soldering iron, such work cannot be done efficiently without studying. Everyone, including girls, should be able to hold a soldering iron and solder with tin.

Therefore, let's consider a simple and at the same time complex technical point - how to learn how to solder with a hand soldering iron and apply science if necessary.

And the need for soldering with tin can be very different, be it household irons, radio sockets, electric kettles, electronic circuit boards, etc.

What kind of soldering should you use with a hand soldering iron?

The need to disassemble electronic devices for repair purposes is quite common. Meanwhile, any electronics, as a rule, contains a printed circuit board, where electronic components are connected into a circuit by soldering.

Soldering with an electric soldering iron is an action aimed at creating a strong connection of electronic parts by melting solder and then applying the melt at the point where the parts meet.

FOR SOLDERING

The technology of soldering using a hand-held electric soldering iron is widely used for repairing electronics.

Therefore, it is advisable to be able to use this technology

Solder is an alloy of soft metals capable of acquiring a semi-liquid state when heated to a certain temperature (~250ºC for POS60 solder).

When the heating stops, the solder at the point of application cools, thereby creating a strong electrical connection. The peculiarity of such soldering is that the soldered assembly is also easy to unsolder using the same tool - an electric soldering iron.

What tools and accessories are used when soldering?

The basis for soldering work is a relatively small number of tools and components:

1. Electric (or other) soldering iron.
2. Soldering iron stand.
3. Solder.
4. Flux (the simplest and most popular is rosin).

This is what a simplified version of the hardware and accessories for manual soldering looks like. However, with increasing skills of an electrician and increasing needs for soldering work, it is possible to expand the range when additionally required:

1. Soldering Station.
2. Device "Third hand".
3. Set of solder, fluxes, soldering pastes.

What kind of electric soldering iron is it?

Hand tool - soldering iron, powered from a standard AC outlet (220V). There is a direct power tool and power supply via adapter. There are manual soldering irons for different power (10 - 100 W). However, for most soldering cases, a 25-40 W device is usually sufficient.

SOLDERING IRONS

Hand-held soldering tool designs come in a variety of shapes and configurations. There are tools complemented by different tip shapes and auxiliary accessories

The main tool of the soldering process is available in different versions. For example, a simple one with a handle or in the form of a pistol. The design of most soldering irons supports the interchangeability of soldering tips. Thanks to the mutual replacement of tips, different soldering methods are implemented.

Working with a hand soldering iron requires caution and compliance with operating rules, since a high heating temperature of 450-500ºC and a high supply voltage of 220 V are used.

What is the best stand for an electric soldering iron?

This accessory is optional, but recommended in any case. In principle, soldering can be carried out without a soldering iron stand, but this option is accompanied by a lot of inconvenience. Moreover, it is not recommended for novice electrical installers to work without a stand.

STANDS

A stand for parking a soldering tool is an accessory that provides not only ease of use and soldering, but also safety for the electrician

Convenient work with a stand is seen not only in parking the soldering iron during work. Usually the stand is equipped with trays for solder and flux, which also adds to the comfort during soldering. Therefore, if you intend to do soldering work, you should acquire not only a soldering iron, but also a convenient, practical stand.

What solders and fluxes are used?

There are many varieties of solder in relation to soldering conditions. This soldering accessory comes with:

• lead alloy,
• lead-free alloy,
• with the addition of flux,
• without adding flux.

Traditionally, solder is produced in wire form with a diameter of 0.8-15 mm, as well as rods. The wire version is considered the most common.

For soldering electronics, lead-free solder is most often used with or without the addition of rosin. The lead-free type of solder is based on an alloy of tin and copper. Lead solder (60% tin, 40% lead) is also used (much less frequently), but this option is considered harmful to health and is not recommended for use.

When using lead solder for soldering with a soldering iron, it is necessary to provide more active ventilation. After completing soldering work, be sure to wash your hands with laundry soap.

TIN

Integral accessories for soldering using a hand soldering iron are soldering rosin and wire solder. There are also solder pastes and rod-shaped solders.

Working with solder is accompanied by different types of flux.

Among the options used, there is a soldering option where acid acts as a flux (soldering steel, stainless steel). In this case, a separate “acid” soldering iron core is recommended, since the acid quickly “eats” the non-ferrous metal.

“Acid” core can be found in specialized stores.

What is the technique for cleaning the core tip?

Soldering requires periodic cleaning of the soldering iron core tip. In practice, a standard damp sponge is often used, thanks to which the tip of the soldering iron core can be kept clean and optimal for work. The sponge also quite effectively removes oxidation that inevitably forms.

The presence of an oxidation film on the tip of the soldering iron core covers the working layer of solder. A black film is formed, blocking active adhesion of solder and uniform distribution over the tip.

Using a regular damp sponge seems to be effective, but this method shortens the life of the tip due to the expansion and contraction of the copper. In addition, a wet sponge temporarily reduces the temperature of the tip. Therefore, the best alternative for cleaning seems to be the use of a brass “sponge”.

SPONGE BRASS

A convenient means for cleaning the soldering iron tip from oxides and residues of molten solder is a brass mesh. A better alternative to the traditional wet sponge

An accessory such as a brass “sponge” is a fine metal mesh made of brass, similar to that used for washing dishes. The only difference is that the washing mesh is made of steel or stainless steel.

Why do you need a soldering station and a “third hand”?

A more technologically advanced tool is a soldering station. A tool of this type is practical to use when there is a need for constant work associated with soldering. The soldering station provides greater flexibility in operation, plus control of operation (automatic adjustment of heating temperature).

The advantage of a soldering station is the ability of the device to maintain the set temperature of the soldering iron. This approach contributes to high quality soldering work on a wide range of projects. Soldering stations help create a safe workplace by incorporating temperature sensors, alarm settings, and even password protection.

THIRD HAND

A soldering station and a “third hand” are tools for professional use when it comes to large-scale work, as well as soldering of small electronic parts

In addition to the soldering station, professional electricians use another tool - the so-called “third hand”. We are talking about a special holder equipped with a magnifying glass. With the help of such a holder it is convenient to solder miniature parts and work with electronic boards with small wiring.

Step-by-step soldering process

Before you start soldering, you should prepare a soldering iron and all the necessary accessories.

1. Prepare solder and flux.
2. If the soldering iron is new, clean the tip with fine sandpaper until it has a copper shine.
3. Heat the tip of the soldering iron core to operating temperature (not higher than 400ºC).
4. Dip the tip in rosin and apply to the solder.
5. Grab a small amount of solder onto the tip.
6. Thoroughly tin the working surfaces of the tip with solder.

The procedure for tinning the tip is recommended to be performed on a copper surface of low mass. Ideally suited for tinning the wide traces of any defective printed circuit board. Having completed tinning, you can proceed directly to soldering.

TIN SUCTION

The procedure for soldering installed electronic parts in itself is not particularly difficult. The quality of creating connections depends on the correct sequence of actions and skill

If soldering is carried out on clean (never soldered) tracks of the electronic board, all soldering points must also be prepared - sanded with “zero” sandpaper to a characteristic shine. Next, perform the following steps:

1. Insert the electronic component into the corresponding holes on the board.
2. Set the component to vertical/horizontal levels.
3. On the back side of the board (solder points), bend the component leads at 45º.
4. Dip the soldering iron tip into rosin.
5. Grab a small amount of solder.
6. Touch the tip to the surface of the board at the soldering point.

The result of touching, as a rule, is a uniform spreading of molten solder around the lead of the electronic component. Once the solder has filled the soldering point, the soldering iron tip should be removed to allow the applied solder to cure. Repeat the operation at the next point. In this way, soldering of any other points on the electronic board is carried out.

How to solder wires using a soldering iron?

The soldering procedure aimed at connecting wires is somewhat different from soldering on electronic board tracks. It should be noted: only copper conductors or those built on alloys with a high copper content can be soldered with tin solder using rosin and similar fluxes.

SOLDERING SET

Features of wire soldering are proper tinning and correct contact time. The quality largely depends on the composition of the soldered conductor strands

Initially, it is necessary to prepare the ends of the conductors for soldering - strip them to a characteristic shine and twist them tightly (stranded). Then:

1. The prepared end of the conductor is inserted together with the soldering iron tip briefly into the rosin.
2. Next, grab the solder with a tip and apply it to the stripped end of the conductor, covered with a thin layer of rosin.
3. Distribute the solder evenly with the tip until the entire area of ​​the end of the conductor is completely covered.

When performing the last point, you should control the process so as not to overheat the wire insulation. If the insulation begins to melt, you should remove the soldering iron for a while and repeat tinning a little later. Do a similar procedure with the other wire. Then place the ends one on top of the other and fill with solder.

You can also use another option:

1. Clean the ends of the conductors until they are shiny.
2. Twist the ends together.
3. Dip briefly into melted rosin.
4. Tin and fill with solder.

The finishing touch

At this point, the practice of a novice electrical installer can be considered complete. Anyone who has mastered the technology of soldering with a hand soldering iron will have wide horizons for creativity and work.

Source: https://zetsila.ru/%D0%BD%D0%B0%D1%83%D1%87%D0%B8%D1%82%D1%8C%D1%81%D1%8F-%D0% BF%D0%B0%D1%8F%D1%82%D1%8C-%D1%80%D1%83%D1%87%D0%BD%D1%8B%D0%BC-%D0%BF%D0% B0%D1%8F%D0%BB%D1%8C%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BC/

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron? How to properly solder wires and microcircuits:

Soldering is a method of creating a permanent connection by introducing into the contact zone a molten material with a melting point lower than that of the materials of the parts being connected. You can learn how to solder correctly with a soldering iron by mastering the technology in practice.

Purpose of the device

The electric soldering iron is available with a supply voltage from 12 to 220V. It is difficult to manufacture a low-power design for high voltage, since this requires many layers of thin wire, which leads to an increase in size. In addition, it is chosen based on work safety conditions.

It is convenient to select the power of the soldering iron using a simple table:

Power, W	Purpose of soldering
5-20	Transistors, diodes, microcircuits
40-50	Common electrical work
more than 50	Soldering large parts

The optimal tip temperature is maintained manually or automatically. For this purpose, thyristor regulators are used.

To increase service life, the end of the soldering iron can be forged. In this case, copper will dissolve less in the solder. Before using a soldering iron, the tip is given a certain shape with a file. The most common are corner and cut. The end is given a knife-like shape in order to simultaneously solder several contacts of a microcircuit or connector pins.

Tools

Before properly soldering with a soldering iron, the work area should be equipped with the necessary tools:

- Stand. The heated device is located on the stand. It also serves to place flux and is a platform for working with wires. A “crocodile” with a piece of foam rubber is additionally attached to it for cleaning the sting.

— Tripod. It includes clamps (“crocodiles”) that can be moved in height and rotated, a tray with rosin, and a holder for a soldering iron.

- Set of tools. It is needed to support parts, give wires desired shapes, and clean solder surfaces. Such tools include tweezers, pliers, wire cutters, round nose pliers, files, a knife, and sandpaper.

Soldering secrets

1. Use of materials for their intended purpose. Tin can be used for soldering. But its melting point is 230 ºС. During radio installation, the connected parts may fail due to overheating. The alloy of tin and lead becomes liquid at a temperature of 180-200 ºС. In addition, it is cheaper, and the connection quality is no worse.

   Pure tin is mainly used in the repair of containers. In radio installation work, solder of the POS-61 brand is used, where the number indicates the percentage of tin. Fluxes are used to remove oxides from the joint. Tinsmiths use acids for this, which are unsuitable for electrical connections.

   For them you need to use fluxes that will not destroy the contacts. How to properly solder with a soldering iron with rosin, which is most often used to protect connections from oxidation? It is a passive flux and must constantly protect the molten solder from contact with air, preventing the appearance of oxides, but does not remove them from the surface.

   Convenient for work is tubular solder filled with rosin from the inside. For hard-to-reach places, an alcohol solution is used.

2. The soldering iron tip must be cleaned and covered with a layer of solder so that oxide deposits do not interfere with work.

3. The contact surfaces are pre-cleaned and tinned. Then the connection is reliable and durable.

4. The parts should be connected correctly and the soldering points should be heated.

How to use a soldering iron?

1. Foreign substances are removed from the surfaces of parts by sanding with sandpaper and degreasing with acetone or gasoline.

2. The tip is cleaned of oxides and soot with a file, block or sandpaper.

3. The soldering iron is heated, its end is coated with rosin, and then tinned. To do this, the solder on the tip is rubbed with a wooden block. The entire working surface should acquire a characteristic silver color.

4. The solder heats up. A small part of it in the form of a drop is applied to the joint and leveled. If necessary, it is added to the required amount until the contact area is covered. The connection area warms up. How to solder wires correctly? The contact of the tip with the conductor should be over the largest possible area, and not with the tip, as inexperienced installers do.

   In this case, the rosin must still remain on the drop of solder so that its oxidation does not begin. The soldering process is carried out in one step. If you pull the tip back and press it back into the part several times, the solder will turn gray due to oxidation as the rosin evaporates sooner. During the cooling process, the parts must remain motionless.

   When the wires are displaced when the solder has not yet hardened, microcracks form in it, worsening the strength of the connection and creating additional electrical resistance.

5. Remains of rosin are removed with a brush moistened with alcohol.

Soldering wires

Let's figure out how to properly solder wires with a soldering iron. First of all, their ends intended for connection are freed from insulation. It is important to warm up the wires being connected properly. To do this, the dimensions of the tip must correspond to the dimensions of the parts. If the soldering iron is too large, then adjacent elements will be damaged during operation. With its small size, soldering will be unreliable, since the parts are difficult to heat up.

Preparing the wire involves removing the insulation from its end. It is removed with a knife or wire cutters. The stranded wire should be twisted so that individual parts do not stick out, and tinned.

To do this, it is lowered into a bath of rosin, a drop of solder is taken with a soldering iron and passed several times along the copper wires. During the tinning process, the wire must be heated and rotated so that it is coated on all sides.

To prepare for further work, the tinned end is dipped into molten rosin and thus “varnished”. The excess can then be easily removed by hand.

Solder is a weak alloy and will break under light loads. The wires to be connected are pre-stripped and twisted. To do this, they must have a common axis. Their centers should be aligned, after which one wire is twisted along the length of the other. A similar operation is performed with the second end. A melt of rosin is applied to the joint, and then solder. The twist should be heated for 2-3 seconds.

If the quantity is insufficient, solder must be added so that the coating is uniform and shiny. Many people do not understand why the connection does not warm up even with a powerful device. How should soldering be done with a soldering iron in this case? The fact is that heat spreads from bottom to top. Therefore, the twist must be heated from below.

When overheated, the solder spreads, and when there is not enough heat, the coating becomes loose.

Single-core wires are cleaned to a shine and dipped in rosin. Then they are connected and heated for 3-5 seconds. and apply solder. A heat-shrinkable tube of a larger diameter is put on the exposed wire, which shrinks with increased temperature, after which reliable insulation is formed. If the solder cools down quickly, use a lighter to heat it up. Having mastered how to solder wires correctly, you can begin more complex operations.

Twisting copper and aluminum wires together is unacceptable due to heat generation in the contact resistance. They are fixed through an intermediate element, which can be a bolted connection separated by washers, a terminal clamp, or a layer of other metal. Tin-based aluminum solder is also suitable for copper wire and can be a reliable intermediate layer for them.

Soldering radio components

Soldering with a radio element is carried out by twisting or overlapping, using a heat sink, for example, with tweezers. The heating of many parts of electrical circuits should not exceed 70 ºС for a duration of more than 3 seconds.

On a printed circuit board, the mounting area around the perimeter of the hole is covered with a layer of solder. Then the tinned and rosin-coated end of the conductor is inserted into it. It is heated and moistened with an added drop of solder.

The tip should touch the pin and the board track at the same time. Excess solder is easily removed with copper braiding. The work is done efficiently when all soldering points are similar to each other. The leads of the radio elements are bent and inserted into the holes of the board.

The ends on the reverse side are bent slightly so that the part does not fall out.

The soldering iron cannot be kept dry for a long time in a heated state. It becomes covered with a layer of oxides, and the tip will have to be cleaned and tinned again. There should always be a layer of molten rosin at the end, and the soldering iron should be turned off during long intervals between work. Also, old solder is periodically removed from it with a sponge.

Elements of boards of various equipment can fail under the influence of static electricity. To prevent its occurrence, the soldering iron body should be grounded.

Working with microcircuits

Let's look at how to properly solder microcircuits. The process has some peculiarities. Microcircuits cannot withstand overheating. There should be no excess solder at the joints. To do this, use a soldering iron for microcircuits with temperature control.

Simultaneous heating of the contacts is carried out using a hair dryer with nozzles. The area on the board needs to be cleaned. Acetone or universal varnish solvent is suitable for this. Then the hair dryer is turned on and its temperature is set at 330-370 ºС.

At the minimum blowing speed, the chip heats up and is immediately removed with tweezers after the contacts have melted. Then the soldering area is lubricated with flux, and a new microcircuit is installed in place of the faulty one. When heated with a hairdryer, it sags a little due to the melting of the contacts, which is a signal that the operation is complete.

The soldering area is wiped with acetone to remove any remaining flux. Sufficiently powerful contacts can be additionally heated with a soldering iron.

When simple soldering with a soldering iron is mastered, you can move on to complex connections, for example, dissimilar metals using gas, oven or pulse heating.

Soldering aluminum

Difficulties in soldering aluminum are associated with its low melting point (660 ºС) and strong oxide film. The parts are heated in an oven or with a gas flame burner.

Their preparation consists of removing fats with a solvent and mechanical cleaning with sandpaper, an abrasive wheel or a stainless steel brush. In this case, the oxide film is formed again, but its thickness is much less than the previous one.

Then flux is applied to the joint and heated to the melting temperature of the solder. The electrode rod is touched to the joint until it begins to melt.

Solder for soldering aluminum at temperatures of 150-400 ºС can be based on zinc, tin, cadmium (low-melting). It has poor corrosion resistance and requires additional coatings. Refractory solders, such as silumin (590-600 ºС), 34A (530-550 ºС) and others, are more reliable and are used more often. Aluminum alloys have a lower melting point. They are soldered with furnace heating, which is more precisely regulated.