How to sharpen a two-handed saw correctly

Sharpening two-handed saws. Sharpening and setting the saw. How is saw routing done and what is it?

29.10.2019

All photos from the article

A hacksaw is one of the most common woodworking tools that almost every man has in his home. However, like any other cutting tool, it must be sharp, otherwise its effectiveness will be significantly reduced. Below we will look in detail at how and how to properly sharpen a hacksaw on wood yourself if it has become dull.

However, in any case, as mentioned above, any saw will cut wood efficiently and effectively only if it is sharp. Therefore, sharpening hand saws for wood must be carried out periodically.

Otherwise, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort on sawing. Moreover, the saw must be properly sharpened, otherwise it will be difficult to make a cut at a right angle with its help - as a result of constant moving to the side, the blade will be pinched and jammed in the cut.

Wiring

Before sharpening a hand saw for wood, you need to check the tooth alignment. This is necessary so that the blade does not jam during the sawing process. The wider the setting is made, the wider the cut will be, and accordingly, the chances of jamming in this case are less.

However, it should be borne in mind that too wide a spread leads to a jagged cut, and cutting will require much more effort. Therefore, the best option is a layout that is one and a half to two times the thickness of the canvas.

In the photo - bending a clove with a special device

As a rule, for this purpose the teeth are bent by 0.25 - 0.5 mm in each direction. True, if the saw is used, then it is better to bend the teeth by 0.5 - 1 mm.

To perform high-quality tooth setting with your own hands, you can use a special device called setting. This is a metal plate with a slot made in it, the width of which exceeds the width of the tool blade.

Before starting work, the saw must be clamped in a vice so that only the teeth protrude from them, which are subsequently bent one by one.

Note!
The teeth should not be bent at the base, as in this case they may break off.

Sharpening

First of all, it should be said that sharpening wood hacksaws may require different tools, depending on the shape of the teeth. So for a crosscut saw you will need a triangular file with a fine notch and an angle of about 60 degrees. If the tool is longitudinal, then you should use a diamond file or coarsely cut needle files.

Instructions for doing this work look like this:

• The canvas must be clamped securely. To do this, you can use a vice and other devices.
• Then use a file to sharpen the left edge on the first tooth, holding the tool at an angle of 60 degrees in relation to the blade. In this case, the movement of the file should be smooth and uniform; when returning the file to its original position, it should not touch the surface being processed. It must be said that when sharpening a rip saw, the file can be held parallel to the table, i.e. sharpen the teeth at an angle of 90 degrees.
• Next, all the left edges of the odd teeth are sharpened in the same way.
• After this, the right edges are sharpened with a file.
• Then you need to turn the saw over and sharpen the teeth of the even row, which are now in the far row, in the same way.
• At the end of the work, it is necessary to remove all burrs using a velvet file. If this is not done, the saw will quickly become dull.

This completes the sharpening of the wood hacksaw. Now you need to look at the tops and edges of the teeth - if they shine in the sun, it means they are sharp enough, otherwise the operation must be repeated.

How to sharpen a hacksaw for wood correctly

Despite the abundance of power tools for woodworking, hand hacksaws are still popular among home craftsmen. The advantages are obvious - low price, small dimensions and instant readiness for work (especially if there is no source of electricity).

Any cutting and sawing tool must be sharp; not only work efficiency, but also safety depends on this. If you exert enormous force when working with blunt equipment, you can lose control and cause injury to yourself. In addition, the quality of the cut made with a sharp hacksaw will be higher.

To understand how to properly sharpen a hacksaw for wood, let’s look at the structure of a popular tool:

It would seem that nothing could be simpler - an iron strip with cut teeth. But any design is developed individually; the shape and placement of the cutting parts depend on the type of wood.

If you do not follow this rule, the tool will jam in the cut as it goes deeper into the material. This means, at a minimum, you need to separate the teeth of the hacksaw. The cutting edge also has features - and this directly depends on the hardness of the wood and the cutting method.

Classification of hacksaws

1. Canvas length. The comfort of work depends on this value (you make the least amount of reciprocating movements), and the teeth on a long hacksaw do not clog as actively. A generally accepted rule is that a hacksaw blade for wood should be twice as long as the size of the workpiece.

Tooth size.

The speed and quality of the cut depends on this parameter. At the same time, the aspects are mutually exclusive.

A hacksaw with a small tooth produces a high-quality and clean cut, but the speed is lower and more effort is required. A large tooth cuts faster and easier, but the edges of the cut will be “ragged” and rough.

In the parameters, the tooth size is indicated in “TPI”, the number means the number of edges per 1 inch. The higher the value, the finer the teeth

Tooth shape.

This parameter determines the direction of the cut (along or across the grain), the type of wood, and the vector of the applied force (from yourself or towards you). Obviously, there are universal canvases. Correct sharpening of the hacksaw is carried out in accordance with the shape of the tooth

Blade steel type. Systematization of the material is a separate topic; we are interested in the processing method. The canvas can be hardened, not hardened or combined. In the latter case, only the teeth are hardened.

This can be determined by the color of the metal - hardened steel is blacker.

This “disadvantage” is compensated by the slow process of dulling. If you don’t come across a nail or a hard knot, the hardened blade will last a long time. True and the cost is appropriate.

Sharpening a hacksaw for wood with your own hands

If the annotation for the blade does not indicate clear characteristics, the layout is done according to the general rules:
The width of the cutting edge overhang should be 1.5 - 2 times the thickness of the blade. Wider routing is done for damp wood, or in the case of cutting along the grain. If, when processing such wood, the width of the teeth is small, the blade will jam in the cut.

On the contrary, with a wide spread, it will be awkward to process normal wood across the grain. The cut will be uneven, and you will have to put more effort into passing the saw.

There are convenient tools for setting teeth, with which you can straighten a long blade in a couple of minutes. But such pliers are not cheap.

How to sharpen a hacksaw with a grinder

Extreme sharpening of a hacksaw on wood, but if you do everything correctly and carefully, then it’s enough.

Most home craftsmen use classic adjustable plates the old fashioned way, with manual adjustment and stop.

The blade is clamped in a vice, or pressed against the workbench using a long block and clamps. The teeth are aligned one at a time, first one side, then the other.

Then you need to level the height of the cutting edges. To do this, place a sheet of paper on a soft, even board, and vertically press the blade against it (with the cutting part). The imprint will show which teeth have different heights.

Obviously, if one or two teeth are more sharply ground, it is unreasonable to align the others to this height. If most of the incisors are discordant, you need to greatly equalize their sizes.

After leveling, you can start sharpening the hacksaw on wood. The easiest to maintain is a hacksaw with a large tooth. For sharpening, you can use a ratfile with a small notch and an ordinary vice.

How to properly sharpen a hacksaw with a file

The instrument is held relative to the tooth at an angle of 60°-75°. First, even incisors are traversed so as not to change the position of the hand. Then the blade is rotated 180°, and the procedure is repeated for odd teeth. Since time immemorial, large saws for cutting firewood have been sharpened this way. True masters did this “by eye” with the highest quality.

A saw for preliminary work can be sharpened using this method. But tools for carpentry and carpentry require greater care. Not everyone can afford to purchase a machine for sharpening hacksaws. If you have small-sized emery, you can make a homemade bed that will work no worse than the factory one.

You can sharpen a hacksaw using a grinder. The power tool is fixed at a certain angle to the workbench. The hacksaw moves manually along guides so that each tooth is brought to the sanding disc in the same plane. A sharpening depth limiter is installed.

The principle is the same as for manual sharpening. First, the even teeth are processed, then the blade is turned around and the odd row is processed.

Such machines will be needed when you often dull the tool while performing large construction projects or repairing wood products. If the question “how to sharpen a saw” appears once or twice a year, use a more conventional device. There are various guides available for sale for the ratfile or needle file, which allow you to hold it at a given angle.

This device is especially useful for sharpening small-sized blades, when an error of a couple of degrees leads to damage to the tool. If you want to save even more, you can make the guide yourself.

The blade is fixed at a certain angle; for a ratfile or a needle file, a limiter is installed parallel to the workbench, and alternately 2-3 passes are made for each tooth. Then turn the canvas (without changing the angle of the guide), and pass the 2nd side. The advantage of similar devices is that they can be used to set and sharpen teeth.

Again, such devices are suitable for conventional hacksaws, with a classic cutter shape.

How to sharpen exotic tools, for example, Japanese hand saws for wood?

For oriental woodworking tools, the working side is the one oriented towards the worker.

The teeth are slightly spaced, and sharpening is done on 3 sides. The processing principle is the same as for conventional blades, but turning on the machine will need to be done a couple of times, securing the tool at different angles.

Sharpening is carried out with a flat file; after rough processing, each tooth is finished with the so-called “velvet” equipment.

General rules for manual sharpening:

• Use of high-quality ratfiles (needles). The set should only be used for processing hacksaws
• The same number of passes is made for each tooth, even if it seems to you that one of the incisors is not sufficiently processed
• Don't change your hand or ratfil angle until you've completed one side. Do not twist the tool - each side is passed through one edge
• The movement should be exclusively in one direction - away from you. No back and forth passes
• The sharpened surface should be matte. If you see a smooth shine on the edge of the tooth, repeat the treatment

Result: If you follow the general rules and have the tools, you can save money on buying a new saw.

All the details of sharpening a hacksaw with your own hands are in this video material.

Source: https://urengoybiz.ru/zabolevaniya-kozhi/zatochka-dvuruchnyh-pil-zatochka-i-razvodka-pily-kak-vypolnyaetsya.html

How to sharpen a two-handed saw

If a chainsaw breaks down, runs out of gas, or a hand saw is not suitable for cutting a thick log, then for this there is a tool such as a two-handed saw, more popularly known as Druzhba-2.

Previously, such a device was used to cut thick logs and large trees. Today, Druzhba-2, although it has decreased in popularity, continues to be used on the farm.

To simplify the use of a two-handed wood saw, we will consider the process of how to make the tool even more convenient and practical, and find out the effectiveness of using the cutting device.

Why is the file called “Friendship-2”

Surely everyone knows this type of chainsaw tool called “Friendship”. The next chainsaw model was to receive an appropriate name with the prefix “two”, but the name “Friendship-2” went to such a cutting device as a two-handed saw.

It got its name due to its design features. A two-handed crosscut saw is designed to work in pairs, and not just two people. In a pair - this means well-coordinated friendly work with the device, which is where the name actually originated back in the USSR.

The Soviet two-handed saw was popular because its main advantage was its low cost. During the Soviet era, few people could afford to buy a specialized tool - a chainsaw, which cost astronomical amounts of money. Cutting thick logs and large trees with a hand saw is not only difficult, but it also takes a lot of time. That is why such a type of cutting unit as Druzhba-2 appeared.

Even if there is now a two-handed saw from the USSR era in your garage or attic, do not rush to get rid of it. It can not only cut trees and logs, but also make various tools, for example, a knife or a handsaw. If you remember that a two-handled hacksaw is gathering dust somewhere in the garage, then it’s time to find out all its advantages and capabilities.

Design features of the file

This two-person tool is also called a crosscut saw, which belongs to the category of hand-held devices and is used primarily for sawing wood materials of various sizes and thicknesses.

For this purpose, the saw has different lengths of blades - from one meter to two. It is inconvenient for one person to hold such a long blade, so the design of the device has two handles.

Not only in Soviet times, but even today, the production of two-handed hacksaws continues in compliance with standard sizes:

• 1 meter or 1000 mm
• 1.25 meters or 1250 mm
• 1.5 meters or 1500 mm
• 1.75 meters or 1750 mm

The blade does not have a straight shape, but a rounded one, which is made specifically to increase the efficiency of sawing, as well as reduce the load. The teeth on the blades are large compared to hand saws, and their size is 20 mm. Even if you use a meter-long file, it is inconvenient to work with it yourself. There are several reasons for this:

1. The large length does not allow the sawyer to make a strong swing
2. Large saw teeth are difficult to bite into wood, and therefore the sawyer alone cannot cope with actuating the cutting device
3. Strong vibration increases the load, as well as reduces the efficiency of the actions performed.

Saws with blades of 1000 and 1250 mm are popular due to the fact that they have a simplified design. Hacksaws with blades of 1500 and 1750 mm were used primarily in industry for sawing construction and wood materials. If they are found in the household, they are exclusively saws with blades of 1 m and 1.25 m. They have classic triangular links, the sharpening angle of which varies from 35 to 70 degrees.

• To cut dry and frozen logs, it is recommended to use a cross-cut saw with a tooth sharpening angle of 50-70 degrees.
• For sawing soft wood, a tool with sharpened links at an angle of 35-40 degrees is used.

Two-handed saws with blades from 1.5 meters have a complex design, which simplifies the use of a large unit. Special sharpening and shape of the teeth on large saw blades are needed to perform high-quality and fast cutting of wood material. The principle of sawing with a hacksaw with a long blade (1.5-1.75 m) differs from the operation of saws with 1 m and 1.25 m in that half of the teeth are responsible for cutting through the fibers, and the second part contributes to the rapid and efficient removal of chips from under the cut site.

If you come across a saw with a complex tooth shape, do not rush to sharpen it at home. If you do not take into account the difference of fractions of millimeters in the complex design of the teeth, then an attempt to restore integrity will lead to complete damage to the two-handed saw. The consequences will be approximately as follows:

• If the difference in the ratio of angles between the cutting and clearing teeth is reduced to one value, then instead of sawing, the blade will tear the wood and only complicate the physical work of sawyers
• If the difference in the ratio of the teeth is large, then the chips will not be effectively removed from the cut, which will also complicate the work

That is why sharpening a crosscut saw requires an appropriate and competent approach. The principle of sharpening a two-handed saw from 1 m to 1.25 m is similar to the process of sharpening the teeth of hand saws.

How to saw with a two-handed saw - detailed instructions with description

At first glance, the process of sawing with a two-handed saw may seem easy and straightforward. However, as soon as a beginner takes up a hacksaw, it immediately becomes clear that this is a job for real and strong hands. However, you don’t have to have a mountain of muscles to properly cut wood with the Druzhba-2 saw. To do this, you need a little experience and also understand the principle of operation.

Source: https://crast.ru/instrumenty/kak-zatochit-dvuruchnuju-pilu

Cross-cut two-handed saw - “Friendship-2” in common parlance!

The two-handed saw, better known to every summer resident as “Friendship-2”, belongs to the category of tools that will never lose their relevance. If only because such a saw does not require any electricity or gasoline, and its working resource is practically inexhaustible!

“Friendship-2” – where does the name come from?

“Friendship” - under this name in the USSR both processed cheese and chainsaws were produced. But it suits a two-handed cross saw perfectly! Why "Friendship-2"? Yes, because it takes two to cut, and their actions must be well coordinated, in a word, like friends. So the people who gave such an unofficial name to the instrument hit, as they say, not in the eyebrow, but in the eye.

If you inherited such a tool and are collecting dust in your workshop or garage, don’t even think about parting with it! Think for yourself - the saw is hand-held, which means it does not need electricity or other fuel. Without gasoline, a chainsaw is just a pile of metal, but Druzhba-2 will always help you out. So wipe the canvas with machine oil and place it in the far corner, fortunately, it does not take up much space.

Two-handed cross saw - a harsh tool

The crosscut saw is the largest of the hand saws, its length can reach almost two meters! There are four standard sizes in total, starting with 1 meter and ending with a canvas of 1750 mm, that is, each size is increased by 250 mm. The characteristic shape of the blades is rounded, and the tooth height usually does not exceed 20 mm. Even the smallest size of such a saw is a rather heavy tool that you cannot work with alone for a long time.

The first two sizes were once produced for the needs of the population - their tooth shape is classic, triangular, with a sharpening angle of about 70°. However, everyone adapts the sharpening angle for themselves, because for soft wood in the summer it is better to reduce it to 35°, but for sawing in winter or for dry wood it is better to stick to 50° when sharpening.

 The longest saws (1500 mm and 1750 mm) were produced for sawing lumber. The teeth in such tools have a complex shape - between two M-shaped (Kremlin) cleaning teeth there are several simple ones, characteristic of cross-cut saws. They are sharpened and bred accordingly.

Such teeth cut the fibers in the cut, and M-shaped cleaning teeth remove pieces of wood from the cut.

To sharpen and align such a saw correctly, you need to be a real ace in this matter, because for proper operation, teeth of a complex shape must be a fraction of a millimeter higher than usual.

If this difference is not taken into account and all teeth are reduced to the same height, then the M-shaped elements will tear the wood, thereby making cutting difficult. If the difference turns out to be too large, then the cleaning teeth will not remove sawdust from the cut well.

How to work with a two-handed tool: subtleties of the process

In villages, such saws are still used to this day for cutting firewood; from the outside it seems like a fairly simple task. Pull one at a time, that's the whole process. However, as soon as a beginner stands on one side of “Friendship-2”, he will feel the character of the saw.

Every now and then it will jam and bend, tear the wood and get stuck in the cut, but just now, in other hands, it was sawing like a darling. That’s right - it’s not the saw! During the sawing process, you just need to guide the tool; it will do the rest itself.

You cannot press or push the canvas, as this will cause it to jam.

For convenience, the log or other material that you are going to saw should be secured on the sawhorses in such a way that the area that we are going to saw off hangs above the ground.

Ideally, one of the sawers should be slightly higher than his partner, for example, on a pallet - due to the bevel, the saw cuts through a large area, as for a hand tool, in one stroke.

Once upon a time, with the help of such a tool, they even cut logs into boards, however, they cost a lot, due to the high labor intensity of the work.

How to turn “Friendship-2” into “Friendship-1” - we saw it alone!

Alas, the right friend, who is also a cutting partner, is not always nearby. And working alone with a two-handed instrument is a real mockery of the nerves. However, nothing prevents you from turning a two-handed instrument into a rather massive and heavy one, but still a one-handed one! Namely, into a bow saw.

Usually the handles on saws are not particularly secured - there is no need for this, and it will be inconvenient to sharpen. Instead, you need to insert long sticks, between which we insert a rail of the required size across them so that they do not break from pressure. We connect the tops of the sticks with a rope, which we twist like a tourniquet, ensuring high tension of the canvas. Thanks to this device, the two-handed tool has become completely independent of two people, and is quite suitable for working in splendid isolation.

Sharpening a saw - what is the secret to sharpness?

Sharpening a two-handed tool is no different from sharpening a hacksaw for wood. Except that the teeth are larger, but it’s even more convenient for work. For sharpening we will need a triangular file, a model for the correct setting of the teeth and a homemade vice.

Since the blade is large, and a regular vice will not suit us, we need to build the desired structure from two boards, selected to the size of the saw, and four legs.

The boards will act as a vice - between them we will clamp the canvas, tightly twisting the boards with a rope, and in order not to bend down low, this simple system can be placed on legs.

First, check the height of all the teeth - there should be no protruding or sinking elements.

Protruding teeth should be ground down with a flat file to the level of the rest, but do not forget that the height of the tooth itself from the base to the tip should remain the same! Therefore, after grinding off its top, you need to make cuts deep into the blade at the base of the teeth.

 When grinding, it is recommended to attach the file to a wooden block that you will hold with your hands - this way the likelihood of injury to your hands and fingers is much lower.

When all the teeth are brought to the same height, start setting them, this is necessary to ensure a wider cut in which the blade can easily pass. To set, you need to move the teeth alternately to the left and then to the right, and it is very important to set them at the same angle to the blade itself.

To do this, they make or buy special metal strips with stops - with this tool you will be able to bend all the teeth at the desired angle. It is recommended to spread 1 mm thicker than the canvas itself or half a millimeter on each side.

This operation will not need to be carried out very often - once every 5-6 sharpenings.

When the wiring is finished, you can start sharpening. To do this, bring the file to the cutting edge and move it away from you until you achieve the desired result. Follow safety rules - start moving the file only when it is already lying on the edge, and not in a big way.

If you are distracted, you can run into sharp teeth with your hand! Go over one side of each piece first, then move to the other side and repeat sharpening.

Please note that the teeth have different edges - the short ones separate the wood fibers, and the side ones cut, resulting in a quick, easy and accurate cross cut.

Source: http://www.emomi.com/dvuruchnaja-pila-poperechnaja-druzhba.html

How to sharpen a hand saw for wood? — Metals, equipment, instructions

The best device for processing and working with wood is a hand tool - a hacksaw. Like any other tool in the household, this one also requires attention and care for trouble-free operation over a long period of time, so the owner should know the main “symptoms”, when it’s time to get started and how to sharpen a hacksaw on wood at home.

Purpose and design of a hacksaw for wood

Depending on the type of use, hacksaws are divided into types:

• Small ones, mainly used for trimming branches and cutting small-diameter trees, usually young trees that grow where they don’t belong.
• Medium hacksaws, which are used for fruit trees in adulthood (pear, apple or plum trees and the like), large beams 10-40 cm.
• Large tools are used for cutting large trees, sleepers and similar building materials, but no more than 40-50 cm in diameter or on the larger side, otherwise there will not be enough blade.

Why sharpen a hacksaw on wood?

Anyone who cuts firewood and trims trees definitely cannot do without a hacksaw for wood processing. A hacksaw's set teeth with sharpened edges help you work with wood and carefully saw off the necessary parts from wood. The sharper the teeth on the blade, the better and smoother the saw cuts. At the same time, thanks to the handle, it is more convenient for the home craftsman to control the process, and the hacksaw itself, with a properly sharpened blade, will last a long time and safely.

Used almost every season, this tool eventually becomes unusable. The teeth on the blade become dull and rounded, working with it becomes overwhelming and takes a lot of time and effort from the worker. In order for the tool to cut well, not get stuck in the wood, and not dull faster (if the tooth is not sharpened, the dulling process is accelerated), you should sharpen it in a timely manner, while simultaneously checking the alignment of the teeth.

How to understand when it's time to sharpen the teeth on a hacksaw blade

How to understand when it's time to sharpen the teeth on a hacksaw blade

To understand when you need to sharpen a working tool, you should adhere to the following signs of poor condition of the hacksaw, namely:

• When working with trees and wooden products (especially hardwood), the saw makes a dull sound, which is typical for the teeth wearing out.
• A detailed examination shows that the tips of the teeth become rounded, which can lead to injury due to the tight movement of the blade and the possibility of it rebounding when applying great force.
• The hacksaw does not fulfill its purpose or does it with great effort on the part of the master.

Unlike the two-handed Druzhba saw, an ordinary hand hacksaw is more convenient to use, since only one person is needed to work with it.

How to set teeth

Thuja cuttings at home

Any sharpening of a hacksaw, be it a two-handed or one-handed saw, begins by setting the teeth 1.5-2 mm in different directions from each other. This arrangement will allow for larger cuts and faster removal of sawdust out without clogging the work surface.

How to set teeth

To make the wiring at the same distance from each other, you need to use a special device, which looks like a metal plate with a slot. In this case, the blade should be clamped in a vice so that the teeth barely protrude from the vice. The slot in the device has a certain size, this prevents the teeth from bending incorrectly. It is enough to put the slot on each tooth in order, with further bending in the required direction (the opposite chamfer on the tooth - it should look inward).

Sharpening the saw

Everyone knows how to use it, but few people know how to sharpen a hacksaw on wood at home correctly. Therefore, it is worth taking a look at the process of sharpening a hand saw for woodworking and why it is needed.

Before you start sharpening the saw, you need to firmly and securely fix it in a vice, but with the teeth set apart.

For your information. It is advisable to use special smooth jaws for a vice, rubber gaskets or thin bars to prevent damage to the blade with standard pointed jaws.

When sharpening, you can use both needle files and small triangular files with a fine notch to grind down the teeth.

Main stages of tool sharpening:

• It is necessary to take the file with one hand by the handle, and with the other by the tip of the working part. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the saw tooth during the process so that the file does not jump out of your hands and your hand does not get on the edge. Just in case, you should wear work gloves with a rubberized surface on the palm.
• Next, you need to set the angle by eye at which the hacksaw will be sharpened. Typically this angle is between 15 and 30 degrees. You can also use a special whetstone with angles of 15, 30 and 60 degrees for a more precise sharpening process.
• Each back-and-forth motion of the file must be performed with constant pressure and the same number of repetitions on each section of the blade.
• Sharpening is carried out both on one side of the blade and on the other.

Important! When sharpening a tool, safety precautions must be observed to prevent injury to the limbs. Otherwise, sharpening will turn into a visit to the doctor.

How to check if your saw is sharpened correctly

After finishing the process of sharpening a tool for working with wood, it is worth checking each tooth of the hacksaw against the light. If shine is visible, the sharpening was done correctly; if not, then you should go over the “suspicious” teeth again. You should also check whether the teeth on the blade are the same height. If they are higher or lower, this will lead to lower cutting quality and blade wear will be unevenly distributed.

Is the saw sharpened correctly?

As a result, when sharpening a hacksaw blade, you need to adhere to the following recommendations:

• The blade must be securely secured in a vice without the slightest sign of slipping during the process.
• The workplace should be as illuminated as possible; this will not only allow you to work normally with the tool, but will also protect your eyes from wearing glasses prematurely.
• The depth of the cut of the selected file depends only on the degree of dullness of the teeth - the duller, the more “powerful” the tool is needed.
• Sharpening of metal occurs only when moving away from you and only in one direction. This prevents hand injuries from accidentally touching the canvas during movement.
• After finishing sharpening, it is necessary to check the quality of the work performed, and in case of unevenness, it is better to correct it immediately than to suffer later in the process of sawing wood, especially hardwood.

On a note. When using a hacksaw, you should regularly pay attention to its performance. This will save effort, nerves, and the tool will last a very long time if handled with care.

Any tool should be checked before and after completion of work. Safety first! If with a hand tool there will only be a cut at best, then with an electric one it can result in a lifelong injury. Therefore, it is recommended to inspect the instruments before use.

All the recommendations and warnings will help you properly sharpen any hand saw for working with wood, and you won’t have any problems determining when to do it.

Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/kak-pravilno-zatochit-ruchnuyu-pilu-po-derevu/

How to choose a two-handed saw for the dacha: tips for a beginner

A metal plate with multiple sharpened teeth, driven back and forth by two users - this is how you can describe the classic version of a two-handed saw. There are two wooden or plastic handles to hold the tool. Popular among the people and understandable to many, “Friendship-2” accurately reflects its features. The word “friendship” is borrowed from the name of chainsaws produced in the Soviet Union.

To get a result, you definitely need two people working harmoniously and synchronously. This productive two-handed version is a highly specialized device.

Purpose

The dimensions of the tool and the size of the teeth make sawing fast. The cut is of lower quality compared to other types of saws due to the large teeth. The tool is in demand in areas where there is no electricity, or the volume of work to be done makes purchasing an electric or chainsaw economically ineffective.

Scope of application of a two-handed saw:

• tree felling;
• firewood preparation;
• cutting lumber to required sizes.

A little-known variety, the longitudinal flywheel, was used for cutting round logs into planks. The instrument can only be seen in museums, or purchased from collectors. The cost of physical effort is high, and the speed of obtaining flat materials is low - because of this, tools are not used in modern construction.

Druzhba-2 can saw any wooden products and building materials, in the production of which waste from logging enterprises (fiberboard, chipboard) was used.

Varieties

There are several types of instruments based on their design:

1. Transverse models differ in the shape and method of sharpening the saw teeth.
2. The rip saw has a rectangular shape, tapering towards the bottom. The sharpening of the teeth corresponds to the assigned tasks.
3. Onion varieties of large sizes.
4. Due to its dimensions in the transport position, the two-handed chain saw is accessible for transportation and can be used on hikes, fishing, and also as an entrenching tool and can be kept in the vehicle at all times.

In the future, we will talk about the classic type of two-handed tool for cross cutting, as the most productive and still widespread.

Manufacturing options

Factories produce two-handed saws of different designs, each of which performs a certain type of task better.

Canvas size

There are four standard sizes of canvases in stores: 100, 125, 150 and 175 cm.

The first two sizes are most often used in everyday life. They can be used to prepare a small amount of firewood by sawing the logs into logs. This length allows you to use the saw when cutting down old and diseased trees in the garden. The shape of the teeth is most often classic triangular.

The two-handed chain saw can be used effectively by one person

When purchasing, pay attention to the sharpening angle of the teeth.

Working with dry materials and soft woods requires an acute sharpening angle of up to 35 degrees. This is enough for high productivity in work, and dry sawdust does not “clog” into the teeth and is easily removed by saw movements.

Hard rocks and working in wet weather or with poorly dried material require a sharpening angle of 70 degrees and a large setting. This design makes the work easier, wet sawdust is removed better, and the saw jams less often.

Blade lengths of 150 and 175 cm are suitable for experienced and physically strong users. The tool was used at logging enterprises, and in the modern world it is suitable for collecting firewood for heating a country house or cottage.

For summer cottages, such models are recommended to be purchased only by experienced craftsmen - in addition to the dimensions, the long versions are distinguished by a special tooth structure. The triangular cutting edges alternate with serrated ones in the shape of the letter “M”. Triangular wood fibers are cut, and M-shaped sawdust is removed from the cutting site. During use, there will be a need to guide or sharpen the teeth, as well as to set them correctly, which will be a difficult task for a beginner.

Handle shape and position

The classic design option, when the handles are made of wood and are inserted into the seats from above, is preferable during operation:

• The hand is located above the log most of the time and it is difficult to get damaged if the movement is unsuccessful.
• If you are tired, you can try using both hands.

The second version of the handle - the hole in the saw blade is covered with a soft plastic material. Among the advantages are smaller dimensions due to the absence of handles sticking up, beautiful appearance. However, it is more difficult to work with the tool, because the brush is always at the same angle and in the same plane with the canvas. If the saw fits into your hand and the work seems easy, you can safely buy the tool you like.

When purchasing a two-handed saw, you need to understand that you can work with wood only by placing it on sawhorses, therefore, if you do not have carpentry skills, you need to acquire them at the same time as the saw.

The fabric must be flexible and return to its original shape after straightening.

The size of the teeth directly affects the speed of work; for teeth larger than 2.5 cm you will need skills - evaluate your experience. Carefully inspect the saw - the presence of teeth of different sizes is not allowed. You will have to “bring it to mind” yourself.

For maintenance - sharpening and setting teeth, purchase a triangular file, a vice or clamp, and a template for setting.

A two-handed wood saw is a simple and reliable tool. After working for some time, users gain experience and have at their disposal a reliable assistant, the use of which does not depend on electricity in the country.

Save the link so you don’t lose it!

Source: https://3vedra.com/sadovyj-inventar/dvuruchnaya-pila.html

How to set the teeth of a wood hacksaw

If the annotation for the blade does not indicate clear characteristics, the layout is done according to the general rules: The width of the cutting edge overhang should be 1.5 - 2 times the thickness of the blade. Wider routing is done for damp wood, or in the case of cutting along the grain. If, when processing such wood, the width of the teeth is small, the blade will jam in the cut.

On the contrary, with a wide spread, it will be awkward to process normal wood across the grain. The cut will be uneven, and you will have to put more effort into passing the saw.

There are convenient tools for setting teeth, with which you can straighten a long blade in a couple of minutes. But such pliers are not cheap.

How to correctly set hand saws on wood

Discounts on hand and power tools - Hand saws for wood and metal here  

Three ways to separate the teeth of a hacksaw with your own hands

How to properly set up and sharpen a hacksaw with a ratfil with your own hands Playlists: Fishing.  

Most home craftsmen use classic adjustable plates the old fashioned way, with manual adjustment and stop.

The blade is clamped in a vice, or pressed against the workbench using a long block and clamps. The teeth are aligned one at a time, first one side, then the other.

Then you need to level the height of the cutting edges. To do this, place a sheet of paper on a soft, even board, and vertically press the blade against it (with the cutting part). The imprint will show which teeth have different heights.

Sharpening a hacksaw on wood with your own hands video from the master handyMEN

It is advisable to adjust the size to one level, otherwise you will have to put more effort when cutting. Obviously, if one or two teeth are more sharply ground, it is unreasonable to align the others to this height. If most of the incisors are discordant, you need to greatly equalize their sizes.

After leveling, you can start sharpening the hacksaw on wood. The easiest to maintain is a hacksaw with a large tooth. For sharpening, you can use a ratfile with a small notch and an ordinary vice.

Discounts on hand and power tools - Hand saws for wood and metal here  

The instrument is held relative to the tooth at an angle of 60°-75°. First, even incisors are traversed so as not to change the position of the hand. Then the blade is rotated 180°, and the procedure is repeated for odd teeth. Since time immemorial, large saws for cutting firewood have been sharpened this way. True masters did this “by eye” with the highest quality.

A saw for preliminary work can be sharpened using this method. But tools for carpentry and carpentry require greater care. Not everyone can afford to purchase a machine for sharpening hacksaws. If you have small-sized emery, you can make a homemade bed that will work no worse than the factory one.

You can sharpen a hacksaw using a grinder. The power tool is fixed at a certain angle to the workbench. The hacksaw moves manually along guides so that each tooth is brought to the sanding disc in the same plane. A sharpening depth limiter is installed.

The principle is the same as for manual sharpening. First, the even teeth are passed, then the blade is unrolled and the odd row is processed.

Source: https://ChityIgr.ru/zub/razvesti-zubya-nozhovki-derevu/

Two-handed saw

The first iron saws were invented by Scandinavian craftsmen. They cast saws in stone molds. But due to the low quality of the metal used, such saws were never able to compete with axes. Only many centuries later did ancient Greek blacksmiths begin to create saws using the forging method. This method made it possible to significantly increase the hardness of the metal and, as a result, the quality of the products increased. There are many different saws available today. In this article we will look at a two-handed saw

Two-handed wood saw

A two-handed saw is a device that has a large number of teeth for cutting (sawing) wood material.

This tool is created in the form of a metal plate, on the working edge of which there are multiple teeth. The handles of such saws are often made of wood. Craftsmen consider this saw to have the highest level of performance of any hand saw.

This device is very convenient for cutting down trees. Whereas cutting a log lying on the ground, like any other tool, is quite difficult, since under its own weight the log sags and pinches the cut site.

It is interesting that during work, and even just if you run any metal object over its canvas, you can hear an unusual howling sound, which is modified by bending the canvas. Because of this feature, the saw was used in Russian folk orchestras as a non-standard musical instrument.

Cross saw, two-handed

The crosscut saw is the largest representative of hand saws. The length of this instrument reaches almost two meters. There are four standard sizes:

• one meter
• one meter and 25 centimeters
• one meter and 50 centimeters
• one meter and 75 centimeters. 

The most popular tooth length is 20 mm. Even the smallest saw weighs quite a lot and working alone is quite problematic.

Today, many companies produce such saws, they are all slightly different from each other. Some specimens have teeth of a classic, triangular shape, with a sharpening angle of approximately 70°. However, craftsmen prefer to adjust the sharpening angle to suit themselves. It all depends on the wood; for example, it is more convenient to saw soft wood in the summer with a tooth sharpening angle of up to 35°. In this case, in winter or when sawing dry timber, it is worth sharpening the teeth at an angle of 50°.

Long saws (1.5 m and 1.75 m) are designed for cutting lumber. The teeth of such devices have a complex shape - between two M-shaped (Kremlin) cleaning teeth there are 2-3 ordinary ones, characteristic of cross-cut saws. They are sharpened and bred accordingly. These teeth cut the fibers during cutting, and the cleaning M-shaped teeth remove wood particles from the cut.

An important point here is the fact that complex-shaped teeth should be fractions of a millimeter higher than simple teeth. If this nuance is ignored and all the teeth are reduced to the same height, then the M-shaped elements will tear the material, as a result of which sawing becomes significantly more difficult. At the same time, if you make too significant a difference, the cleaning teeth will not be able to remove sawdust from the cut.

Operating rules

In villages, this tool is still used today for collecting firewood. Visually, the process may seem quite easy. Pull one at a time, that's all. However, it is not. Inexperienced craftsmen often find that the saw jams, it bends and tears the timber, and also gets stuck in the cut.

While sawing, you just need to guide the tool, the saw will do the rest itself. It is not recommended to press or push the saw too hard, as this will cause it to jam.

For more convenient work, a log or other workpiece must be secured on trestles so that the area to be sawn hangs above the ground.

The ideal option would be a position in which one of the sawyers would be slightly higher than his partner, for example, on a pallet. In this position, due to the bevel, in one stroke the saw will be able to cut through a significant area, as for a hand tool.

A very long time ago, this saw was even used to cut logs into boards, however, their cost was very high due to the high labor intensity of the work.

Working alone

Unfortunately, a cutting partner is not always present. And working alone with a two-handed device is very difficult. But skilled craftsmen know that even such a massive tool can be made into a one-handed tool. You can make a bow saw from a two-handed saw.

Most often, the handles on saws are not firmly secured. They must be removed from the two-handed saw, and long sticks installed in their place. A rail of the required size is inserted across them between them so that the sticks do not break from pressure.

The upper ends of the sticks must be connected with a rope, twisted like a tourniquet, to ensure high tension of the canvas. That's all, you have a one-handed tool that you can use alone.

How to sharpen a hand saw: rip, cross, mixed type

Often people carrying out repairs are faced with a situation where a tool that has served faithfully begins to fail. In such situations it becomes quite offensive. Because you don’t always have the strength to do repairs, but you want to do them without any problems. This article will tell you how to sharpen a handsaw.

Basic rules for sharpening a hand saw

In order to carry out correct and correct sharpening, you need to get the hang of this tricky business. You should have an excellent eye, not be distracted while working, and hold your tools confidently. While working, you need to build on these rules:

1. Securely fix the saw blade. It is best to secure it in a strong vice. We pass wooden planks between the canvas so as not to crush the instrument.
2. Use only proven products. A file will work great, followed by a needle file or a file with a fine notch. Any file will do, ideally a recently purchased one. If this is not available, it is better to rub the old one with a steel brush and charcoal.
3. You need to be extremely careful when sharpening. The file will ideally pass through the metal and capture the top layer of the blade. If one tool overheats or becomes clogged, it should be replaced with another.
4. When sharpening, follow the rules for holding materials. The handle should be clasped with the right hand, and the end should be clamped with the left. The pressure on the hacksaw should be as even and smooth as possible. It is necessary to make movements only in one direction.
5. You should grind off as even an amount of metal as possible from the material. If done incorrectly, the blade can become even more dull and clogged. It is better to immediately decide on a certain number of movements and pressure force so that the sharpening is uniform.

Reference! Burrs that appear during sharpening are removed using a file with a velvet side.

How to sharpen it yourself: step by step

To ensure that everything goes at the highest level, we carry out the procedure of separating the teeth. This is done to ensure that the saw moves freely on the wooden material without constant jamming. With the routing, along with an increase in the width of the cut, a large amount of chips will come out, which will not get stuck in the material.

1. The wiring should be done one by one, gradually changing the differences between the links. The difference should not exceed more than one millimeter.
2. After this work, you can proceed directly to sharpening the material.

crosscut saw

To sharpen a cross-section hacksaw, you should choose a triangular file that is suitable for the hardness of the material. The angle should not exceed or be less than 60 degrees.

Initially, you should start along the left edges of the odd teeth. After this, we go along the right edges of the odd ones. Thus, we sharpen the edges of the sharp end. Next, you should do the same procedure with the remaining teeth.

Rip saw

For longitudinal tools, a coarsely cut needle file or a diamond-shaped file is used. Triangular tools are not suitable for this type of work.

The material is installed vertically. During operation, you should press the tool to the metal at an angle of 90 degrees, picking up the sharpening material from the back and front sides. This improves the quality of the distant row of teeth. After this, the canvas is turned over and the work is repeated.

Mixed cutting saw

To restore the quality of work, use files with a medium notch or diamond-shaped files with a fine abrasive. When working, use a gap angle of 90 and 75 degrees, respectively.

If you don’t have any skills, then it’s better to turn to specialists so as not to damage the instrument.

Subscribe to our Social networks

Source: https://setafi.com/bytovaya-tehnika/kak-zatochit-ruchnuyu-pilu/

How to Sharpen a Two-Handed Saw

Sharpening and setting the saw

The main cutting element of any hand saw is a series of teeth cut on the blade and representing cutters in the form of wedges. Wood, in the manufacture of various products from it, is sawn along, across and at an angle Θ to its fibers; in this regard, transverse, longitudinal sawing and sawing at an angle to its fibers are distinguished, and in each case a corresponding type of saw is used, which differs from others shape of the teeth.

When cross-cutting, cross-cut saws are used, the cutting edges of the teeth of which, when moving through the wood, cut its fibers like a knife and form a cut. Longitudinal sawing differs from cross-cutting in that the direction of movement of the saw is parallel to the grain of the wood.

The front edges of the teeth of longitudinal saws plan wood, like knives in planes, and, going deeper, form a cut. When sawing wood at an angle Θ to its fibers, universal (mixed) saws with teeth are used, which are the intermediate form of the teeth of transverse and longitudinal saws.

How to quickly and easily sharpen a hacksaw with a file

In this video I showed one of the ways to sharpen a hacksaw with a triangular file. I’m not saying that this is an axiom.

The figure below shows a clamping device for sharpening the teeth of two-handed saws and large hacksaws.

The device consists of two racks 1100 mm long with a cross-section of 60x40 mm, two transverse strips about 550 mm long with a cross-section of 40x30 mm and two clamping strips with dimensions of 450x150 mm, made of plywood 15 mm thick. The posts and crossbar are connected to each other with screws.

The assembly of the device is carried out in the following sequence: the lower crossbar is screwed to the racks at a small height from the floor, then the right leg is placed on it and the place of attachment of the second crossbar is marked so that the knee of the right leg rests against the second crossbar. This ensures the rigidity of the stand leaning against a table or workbench.

The saw blades for sharpening are placed between the clamping bars with their teeth facing up and clamped with M8 bolts and wing nuts. Having finished sharpening on one side, without removing the saw from the clamping bars, turn the device over and continue sharpening on the other side.

Saw layout

The wider the tooth spread, the wider the cut and, accordingly, the less likely the saw to jam in it. However, a cut that is too wide due to the large tooth set requires a lot of effort to move the saw through the wood.

When using an unset or slightly set saw, which happens after its repair or long work, when the spread of the teeth is greatly reduced, the width of the cut turns out to be close to the thickness of its blade, and the friction that arises between the walls of the cut and the blade causes its heating and expansion and, ultimately In other words, the saw gets stuck in the cut, which will require incredible effort to move. Probably, each of us has experienced this trouble when sawing raw wood with a thin saw. And yet, if there is no free gap in the cut for the saw blade, then it is difficult to control and it is pulled away from the intended direction.

The saw teeth are set using a special tool called a set. Some of its designs allow you to select the amount of spread to one side using an adjusting screw, which ensures the same bend of the teeth.

The saw teeth are set in a special wooden clamping device, in which the saw blade is installed so that only the teeth protrude slightly from it, and the device itself is mounted on the work table.

The set of teeth is formed by bending them alternately in different directions along the break line, located approximately at half of their heights, but the entire tooth cannot be set back - it will break at the base. It may turn out that when bending, some teeth protrude to the side more than others, and during sawing they will slow down, reduce the quality of the cut surface and quickly become dull.

To avoid this, the teeth are aligned by pulling them between the jaws of a hand vice, opened to the amount of spread. As a result, all teeth are aligned and their spread becomes uniform.

The amount of saw tooth set is determined by the elastic recovery of the wood in the cut, which is greater the softer and wetter it is. Therefore, for such wood the spread should be greater than for hard and dry wood. The amount of teeth set to one side and the amount of cut in wood are determined by the formulas:

where a is the thickness of the saw blade (mm), k is a coefficient depending on the condition of the wood, k = 0.25-0.4 - for hard and dry and k

Source: https://xl-info.ru/kak-zatochit-dvuruchnuju-pilu/

How to properly sharpen a hand saw for wood

For sawing wood materials, including trees, a tool such as a hand saw is used.

Despite the fact that electronic and also gasoline saws, jigsaws and circular saws have long been developed, a hand hacksaw for wood remains an indispensable assistant in the arsenal of every craftsman. When actively using this tool, it is necessary to sharpen the teeth. Let's look at the material on how to sharpen a hacksaw on wood without the help of others with your own hands.

A hand hacksaw is used for sawing various wood materials. It is a canvas with teeth at the bottom.

The positive point is that the tool is equipped with a handle, with which the master holds it during the sawing process.

The convenience and comfort of working with the saw depends on the properties of the handle.

There are a large number of manufacturers of hacksaws for wood, but they all differ not only in names, but also in quality.

They are intended for sawing wood, chipboard, logs, laminate, and also tree trunks.

Hacksaws are divided into such types as: traditional, round, bow, also with a back and award. When choosing a tool, the thickness of the blade plays an important role.

After all, a thin blade may break during sawing of wood, and it is impossible to work with a thick one.

Fundamentally! Wood saws should be sharpened from time to time. Sharpened files include blades that have not gone through the hardening stage. When the blade links are hardened, it is impossible to sharpen them.

How to properly split and sharpen a hacksaw with a file yourself

The tool in question is subjected to different loads during operation, which leads to dulling of the teeth.

If you cut with a saw that requires dull teeth, the result will be even less effective compared to a sharp one.

Today, using a saw with blunt teeth is not recommended for the following reasons:

• Reduced tool performance. Not only the master’s strength will be spent, but also his time.
• Reduced accuracy of work. It is impossible to cut wood materials smoothly with a hacksaw with blunt teeth, and of course, do it carefully.
• The danger of introducing a tool. During the work, the saw will get stuck, jam, and come off the cutting line, which is why such work can be unsafe for the master.

A sharp hacksaw is not only easier to work with, but also much safer. To find out that the time has come to sharpen the wood hacksaw blade, pay attention to the following reasons:

1. The canvas makes a corresponding dull sound. If a master often uses a hacksaw, then it is quite easy for him to find such a sound.
2. The tips of the teeth are rounded.
3. The saw, when trying to cut wood, refuses to do its task.

These reasons say that the time has come to sharpen a hacksaw for wood in artisanal conditions. Alas, before you take on the ratfil, you should find out whether these links can be sharpened.

Sharpening a hacksaw for wood begins with a procedure such as setting the teeth. The alignment of the hacksaw teeth is carried out for such purposes as ensuring free movement of the blade without jamming.

Setting is essentially bending the teeth in different directions, alternately, by the same amount.

This leads to the fact that the width of the cut increases, which means that during sawing the process of removing chips is accelerated.

Do-it-yourself sharpening of a hand saw for wood using a grinder

Essential to know! The wider the tooth set, the less chance of the blade jamming.

The amount of tooth set depends on the thickness of the blade, and is usually equal to 1.5-2 mm. To bend the teeth by a similar amount, you will need to use a special device.

This device is an iron plate with a special slot. The blade is clamped in a vice so that the links protrude slightly. After which the process of bending the teeth is carried out.

The sharpened teeth must also be bent to the same distance.

To sharpen a hacksaw for wood, the blade should be secured in a vice in the same way.

To sharpen the saw links, needle files are used, also called triangular file files with a small notch.

Not everyone knows how to properly sharpen a saw on wood, so more attention should be paid to this process.

1. First you need to pick up the ratfil. You should use a ratfile with a small notch, which you should hold with one hand by the handle and the other by the tip of the tool.
2. The sharpening angle is determined, which usually ranges from 15 to 30 degrees. The angle is usually determined without special instruments; if this is difficult to do, then use special homemade devices, for example, a wooden block. For this purpose, the block is ground until it has the shape of a right triangle with angles of 30 and 60 degrees.
3. And the most important thing when working as a Ratfil is to put pressure on him. To ensure uniform sharpening, it is necessary to make the same number of passes with the file along each tooth. With experience, you will learn to ensure that the top layer of metal is removed evenly.
4. Using the prepared device, the sharpening angles are controlled. The process is carried out in a similar way on the reverse side of the canvas.

Now you understand how accurately the teeth of a hacksaw blade are sharpened on wood.

Alas, the process is not yet completed in this case, because it will be necessary to align the teeth in height.

If they have different heights, the uniformity of sawing will be disrupted.

If there are links that are higher than others, then they are shortened using the same ratfil. The check is carried out using a sheet of paper, to which the blade should be attached with the teeth down. Subsequently, the sizes are compared and the shortening procedure is repeated.

How to sharpen a hacksaw with a grinder

When carrying out work on sharpening a hacksaw, you should adhere to the following tips:

1. The device is tightly fixed to the work surface in a vice.
2. Ensuring good lighting of the work area.
3. Ratfiles and needle files with different notches are used to sharpen the links. The smaller the notch, the better. It all depends on the degree of dullness of the teeth.
4. Metal removal is carried out only when the ratfil moves away from itself in one direction.
5. When the work is completed, you need to check the quality. For this purpose, you should look at each link in the light. If the tooth shines, then it is sharpened correctly, as in the photo below.

In conclusion, it should be noted that the craftsmen probably do not consider it necessary to sharpen a hacksaw. This is incorrect, because the efficiency of the work depends on the sharpening properties.

Source: https://steelfactoryrus.com/kak-pravilno-zatochit-ruchnuyu-pilu-po-derevu/