How to solder correctly

How to learn to solder with a hand soldering iron + step-by-step instructions

Teaching is the mother of creation! And even if the creation is considered to be just ordinary work with an electric soldering iron, such work cannot be done efficiently without studying. Everyone, including girls, should be able to hold a soldering iron and solder with tin.

Therefore, let's consider a simple and at the same time complex technical point - how to learn how to solder with a hand soldering iron and apply science if necessary.

And the need for soldering with tin can be very different, be it household irons, radio sockets, electric kettles, electronic circuit boards, etc.

What kind of soldering should you use with a hand soldering iron?

The need to disassemble electronic devices for repair purposes is quite common. Meanwhile, any electronics, as a rule, contains a printed circuit board, where electronic components are connected into a circuit by soldering.

Soldering with an electric soldering iron is an action aimed at creating a strong connection of electronic parts by melting solder and then applying the melt at the point where the parts meet.

FOR SOLDERING

The technology of soldering using a hand-held electric soldering iron is widely used for repairing electronics.

Therefore, it is advisable to be able to use this technology

Solder is an alloy of soft metals capable of acquiring a semi-liquid state when heated to a certain temperature (~250ºC for POS60 solder).

When the heating stops, the solder at the point of application cools, thereby creating a strong electrical connection. The peculiarity of such soldering is that the soldered assembly is also easy to unsolder using the same tool - an electric soldering iron.

What tools and accessories are used when soldering?

The basis for soldering work is a relatively small number of tools and components:

1. Electric (or other) soldering iron.
2. Soldering iron stand.
3. Solder.
4. Flux (the simplest and most popular is rosin).

This is what a simplified version of the hardware and accessories for manual soldering looks like. However, with increasing skills of an electrician and increasing needs for soldering work, it is possible to expand the range when additionally required:

1. Soldering Station.
2. Device "Third hand".
3. Set of solder, fluxes, soldering pastes.

What kind of electric soldering iron is it?

Hand tool - soldering iron, powered from a standard AC outlet (220V). There is a direct power tool and power supply via adapter. There are manual soldering irons for different power (10 - 100 W). However, for most soldering cases, a 25-40 W device is usually sufficient.

SOLDERING IRONS

Hand-held soldering tool designs come in a variety of shapes and configurations. There are tools complemented by different tip shapes and auxiliary accessories

The main tool of the soldering process is available in different versions. For example, a simple one with a handle or in the form of a pistol. The design of most soldering irons supports the interchangeability of soldering tips. Thanks to the mutual replacement of tips, different soldering methods are implemented.

Working with a hand soldering iron requires caution and compliance with operating rules, since a high heating temperature of 450-500ºC and a high supply voltage of 220 V are used.

What is the best stand for an electric soldering iron?

This accessory is optional, but recommended in any case. In principle, soldering can be carried out without a soldering iron stand, but this option is accompanied by a lot of inconvenience. Moreover, it is not recommended for novice electrical installers to work without a stand.

STANDS

A stand for parking a soldering tool is an accessory that provides not only ease of use and soldering, but also safety for the electrician

Convenient work with a stand is seen not only in parking the soldering iron during work. Usually the stand is equipped with trays for solder and flux, which also adds to the comfort during soldering. Therefore, if you intend to do soldering work, you should acquire not only a soldering iron, but also a convenient, practical stand.

What solders and fluxes are used?

There are many varieties of solder in relation to soldering conditions. This soldering accessory comes with:

• lead alloy,
• lead-free alloy,
• with the addition of flux,
• without adding flux.

Traditionally, solder is produced in wire form with a diameter of 0.8-15 mm, as well as rods. The wire version is considered the most common.

For soldering electronics, lead-free solder is most often used with or without the addition of rosin. The lead-free type of solder is based on an alloy of tin and copper. Lead solder (60% tin, 40% lead) is also used (much less frequently), but this option is considered harmful to health and is not recommended for use.

When using lead solder for soldering with a soldering iron, it is necessary to provide more active ventilation. After completing soldering work, be sure to wash your hands with laundry soap.

TIN

Integral accessories for soldering using a hand soldering iron are soldering rosin and wire solder. There are also solder pastes and rod-shaped solders.

Working with solder is accompanied by different types of flux.

Among the options used, there is a soldering option where acid acts as a flux (soldering steel, stainless steel). In this case, a separate “acid” soldering iron core is recommended, since the acid quickly “eats” the non-ferrous metal.

“Acid” core can be found in specialized stores.

What is the technique for cleaning the core tip?

Soldering requires periodic cleaning of the soldering iron core tip. In practice, a standard damp sponge is often used, thanks to which the tip of the soldering iron core can be kept clean and optimal for work. The sponge also quite effectively removes oxidation that inevitably forms.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKZBAqnGoZ4

The presence of an oxidation film on the tip of the soldering iron core covers the working layer of solder. A black film is formed, blocking active adhesion of solder and uniform distribution over the tip.

Using a regular damp sponge seems to be effective, but this method shortens the life of the tip due to the expansion and contraction of the copper. In addition, a wet sponge temporarily reduces the temperature of the tip. Therefore, the best alternative for cleaning seems to be the use of a brass “sponge”.

SPONGE BRASS

A convenient means for cleaning the soldering iron tip from oxides and residues of molten solder is a brass mesh. A better alternative to the traditional wet sponge

An accessory such as a brass “sponge” is a fine metal mesh made of brass, similar to that used for washing dishes. The only difference is that the washing mesh is made of steel or stainless steel.

Why do you need a soldering station and a “third hand”?

A more technologically advanced tool is a soldering station. A tool of this type is practical to use when there is a need for constant work associated with soldering. The soldering station provides greater flexibility in operation, plus control of operation (automatic adjustment of heating temperature).

The advantage of a soldering station is the ability of the device to maintain the set temperature of the soldering iron. This approach contributes to high quality soldering work on a wide range of projects. Soldering stations help create a safe workplace by incorporating temperature sensors, alarm settings, and even password protection.

THIRD HAND

A soldering station and a “third hand” are tools for professional use when it comes to large-scale work, as well as soldering of small electronic parts

In addition to the soldering station, professional electricians use another tool - the so-called “third hand”. We are talking about a special holder equipped with a magnifying glass. With the help of such a holder it is convenient to solder miniature parts and work with electronic boards with small wiring.

Step-by-step soldering process

Before you start soldering, you should prepare a soldering iron and all the necessary accessories.

1. Prepare solder and flux.
2. If the soldering iron is new, clean the tip with fine sandpaper until it has a copper shine.
3. Heat the tip of the soldering iron core to operating temperature (not higher than 400ºC).
4. Dip the tip in rosin and apply to the solder.
5. Grab a small amount of solder onto the tip.
6. Thoroughly tin the working surfaces of the tip with solder.

The procedure for tinning the tip is recommended to be performed on a copper surface of low mass. Ideally suited for tinning the wide traces of any defective printed circuit board. Having completed tinning, you can proceed directly to soldering.

TIN SUCTION

The procedure for soldering installed electronic parts in itself is not particularly difficult. The quality of creating connections depends on the correct sequence of actions and skill

If soldering is carried out on clean (never soldered) tracks of the electronic board, all soldering points must also be prepared - sanded with “zero” sandpaper to a characteristic shine. Next, perform the following steps:

1. Insert the electronic component into the corresponding holes on the board.
2. Set the component to vertical/horizontal levels.
3. On the back side of the board (solder points), bend the component leads at 45º.
4. Dip the soldering iron tip into rosin.
5. Grab a small amount of solder.
6. Touch the tip to the surface of the board at the soldering point.

The result of touching, as a rule, is a uniform spreading of molten solder around the lead of the electronic component. Once the solder has filled the soldering point, the soldering iron tip should be removed to allow the applied solder to cure. Repeat the operation at the next point. In this way, soldering of any other points on the electronic board is carried out.

How to solder wires using a soldering iron?

The soldering procedure aimed at connecting wires is somewhat different from soldering on electronic board tracks. It should be noted: only copper conductors or those built on alloys with a high copper content can be soldered with tin solder using rosin and similar fluxes.

SOLDERING SET

Features of wire soldering are proper tinning and correct contact time. The quality largely depends on the composition of the soldered conductor strands

Initially, it is necessary to prepare the ends of the conductors for soldering - strip them to a characteristic shine and twist them tightly (stranded). Then:

1. The prepared end of the conductor is inserted together with the soldering iron tip briefly into the rosin.
2. Next, grab the solder with a tip and apply it to the stripped end of the conductor, covered with a thin layer of rosin.
3. Distribute the solder evenly with the tip until the entire area of ​​the end of the conductor is completely covered.

When performing the last point, you should control the process so as not to overheat the wire insulation. If the insulation begins to melt, you should remove the soldering iron for a while and repeat tinning a little later. Do a similar procedure with the other wire. Then place the ends one on top of the other and fill with solder.

You can also use another option:

1. Clean the ends of the conductors until they are shiny.
2. Twist the ends together.
3. Dip briefly into melted rosin.
4. Tin and fill with solder.

The finishing touch

At this point, the practice of a novice electrical installer can be considered complete. Anyone who has mastered the technology of soldering with a hand soldering iron will have wide horizons for creativity and work.

Source: https://zetsila.ru/%D0%BD%D0%B0%D1%83%D1%87%D0%B8%D1%82%D1%8C%D1%81%D1%8F-%D0% BF%D0%B0%D1%8F%D1%82%D1%8C-%D1%80%D1%83%D1%87%D0%BD%D1%8B%D0%BC-%D0%BF%D0% B0%D1%8F%D0%BB%D1%8C%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BC/

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron: what is required for soldering using rosin

Whatever innovations the modern market of tools for repairing radio equipment offers, the soldering iron remains one of the most reliable and safe devices.

The process of soldering wires and microcircuits is considered effective because it allows you to achieve the strongest possible connection between wires and small parts.

This result can be achieved by adding a special material to the contact area - solder, which has a lower melting point than that of the parts being connected.

Thus, soldering with a soldering iron is the effect of a certain temperature on different metal surfaces for their strong and high-quality connection. However, before you start working with a soldering iron, you should first understand the rules of soldering and other intricacies of this process.

What you need for soldering with a soldering iron

To solder something, you first need to prepare all the tools necessary for this process.

• Of course, you will need a soldering iron itself. For working at home, the best option would be a soldering iron with a power of 15 to 30 watts. The choice of device power directly depends on what exactly you plan to solder. For simple parts, a soldering iron with a minimum or medium power is suitable, while for more professional soldering, a 40-watt device will be most practical.
• You will definitely need solder, which is very important to choose correctly. The main function of solder is to create a permanent connection during the soldering process. Currently, there are several types of solder that are designed to solve different problems (copper, silver, tin, lead, etc.). However, rosin is quite suitable for sealing contacts in a microcircuit or for ordinary connection of wires. It is not recommended to use it in electrical engineering, since the acids contained in rosin can simply destroy contacts and destroy complex parts of the circuit. It should be remembered that only correctly selected solder can provide the best connection of parts.
• When working with a soldering iron, to clean and tin the “tip” of the device, you will need to use flux - a special mixture of organic or inorganic origin necessary to remove acid particles released by solder from the tip of the tool. Flux comes in powder, liquid or paste form. Despite the huge selection of different fluxes, the flux made from rosin is considered the most versatile and most effective.
• In order to use a soldering iron with maximum convenience and comfort, you should prepare a special stand for it. Since the device has a very high heating temperature, in order not to burn things or objects, it is necessary to prepare a stand that can withstand high temperatures.
• You will need a file. To make the soldering process simple, you need to sharpen and clean the soldering iron tip with a file. The main thing is that the “tip” of the tool is smooth and has no signs of carbon deposits.
• Also, to work with the device you will need a vice or pliers - with their help you can clearly fix wires or boards and guide them to the desired position during the soldering process. If these tools are not at hand, as a last resort you can use tweezers.
• After finishing working with the tool, you will need to use alcohol, which can be used to wash off traces of flux.

Having all the necessary tools at hand, you can start working with a soldering iron .

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron and rosin

Rosin has such unique qualities as ease of dissolution in various organic compounds, for example, acetone or alcohol. When heated, this substance can break down complex chemical compounds such as copper, tin or lead. Therefore, proper use of rosin helps reduce the likelihood of spreading of the substance, destruction of the oxide coating, as well as high-quality tinning of soldered elements.

You also need to take into account that the thinner the tip of the soldering iron, the easier it will be to work with it, especially when it comes to soldering very thin wires and parts. Therefore, if it has not yet been sharpened, this should be done before starting work.

Process description

• First, you should prepare the workspace where you plan to seal the parts. To do this, you need to open the window, since the fumes that come from the solder heavily pollute the air. You should also take any sponge, soak it thoroughly in water and place it as close to the soldering iron as possible. Well, in order not to stain your work area with drops of solder, it is best to cover the surface on which you will be working with thick cardboard or some other similar covering.
• There must be a stand for the device at hand.
• Then you need to plug the soldering iron into a power outlet and heat it up. As the device heats up, a specific smell and noticeable smoke may appear - this is normal. The device will be ready for use immediately after the tip is completely heated and the smoke and unpleasant aroma have evaporated.
• After the tool has been calcined, it should be turned off. This is necessary in order to pre-clean the tip from dirt and plaque. It is best to clean the instrument while it is hot. To do this, you can use a prepared sponge or cloth.
• Then you need to turn on the soldering iron again and let it warm up thoroughly.
• After cleaning and heating the tool, you should carry out the process of tinning the tip of the soldering iron - covering the tip with a light layer of solder, in this case rosin. Thanks to this simple manipulation, the heat transfer between the parts that are intended for soldering will significantly increase.
• Next, you need to dip the tip of the heated device into rosin for a while so that a little solder accumulates on the tip. You should wait a little while until the solder heats up and begins to soften.
• Excess rosin can be removed using cardboard or other available tools.
• If you plan to solder one copper part, then one tinning will be enough - you need to touch the rosin once, then apply the tip of the soldering iron with solder to the working surface and wait a little until the wires are covered with solder. As a result of these manipulations, the rosin will begin to smoke, and the soldered parts will flow around the molten substance.
• In order to solder two parts efficiently, they also need to be tinned separately, that is, covered with solder. It should be remembered that the tinning process is a mandatory procedure, without which it will not be possible to properly solder the necessary parts.
• After finishing work with the soldering iron, while it is still warm, you need to remove the remaining solder. To do this, the tip of the tool just needs to be wiped with a damp cloth, or better yet, a sponge soaked in alcohol or any other composition intended for these purposes.

There should not be any particular difficulties when working with the tool. For everything to go smoothly, it is best to first practice working with rosin on parts that you won’t mind throwing away later. After all, experience always comes with practice.

In order to correctly solder copper wires using rosin, you must follow a certain sequence of actions.

• First prepare the wires . To do this, the ends of the wires that need to be soldered must be thoroughly stripped of insulation. All wires spliced ​​together are usually insulated using a special heat-shrinkable tube. If such a tube is present, then it must be cut using a sharp knife so that the length extends 2-7 mm beyond all seams. The insulating coating should be about two centimeters on each side of the wires being connected. The exposed ends of the wires must be burned to completely remove the insulation.
• Then the connected ends of the wires need to be provided with a high-quality mechanical connection. To do this, the two ends of the wire are twisted together so that their centers intersect tightly with each other. After this, the end of one wire should be twisted along the length of the cable. The same manipulation should be done with the second end of the other wire.
• Then you need to heat up the soldering iron to first tin the wires and then warm them up. To do this, a heated soldering iron is lowered into rosin and a little solder is taken, after which the device is passed a couple of times along the ends of the wire. During tinning, the wire should be rotated and heated, which will help ensure an even coating of rosin.
• At the end of the work, the finished wire should be insulated . To do this, you need to put the heat shrink back on the already soldered wires. This will not only help cover the connection, but also heat it, making the soldered wire strong and flexible.

As you can see, there are no particular difficulties with soldering wires using rosin. The main thing is not to forget to tin the wire and check the quality of the soldering. If necessary, tinning should be repeated several times until the wires are firmly connected with solder.

Important Tips

Having figured out how to use a soldering iron, you should consider several recommendations for working with this tool.

• Before starting work, to ensure high-quality soldering of parts, you should always clean the tip of the tool. You need to understand that only thanks to the soldering iron tip the thermal conductivity and quality of the connection are enhanced. You can use a damp sponge for cleaning. After cleaning, the tip of the device should be immediately dipped in rosin so that it is covered with a thin layer of solder, which prevents oxide deposits from interfering with high-quality soldering of parts.
• You should always solder small and thin parts first, since the tip of the device at the beginning of its use will be as thin and precise as possible.
• Before soldering parts, their surface must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and acid. Cleaning the surface of soldered objects is done using a sharp tool - sandpaper or a regular knife. This is done until the surface of the wires noticeably brightens. After which the contacts are tinned and connected using solder.
• If you need to solder some part without using a soldering iron, you can use rosin, previously dissolved in alcohol. The resulting mixture can be applied to the desired surface using any thin tool, such as a screwdriver.
• The highest quality soldering can be achieved by using solder with rosin.
• In order to correctly and tightly solder wires and other parts using solder, you first need to heat the joints with a soldering iron.
• The mistake of many is poor heating of the soldering iron. If this happens, the parts do not connect well. Therefore, before you start using the tool, you need to warm it up thoroughly.
• However, severe overheating of a soldering iron with maximum power can also negatively affect the quality of work. You need to understand that there are different temperature conditions intended for a specific type of work.
• Soldering temperature is a very important nuance. For example, to seal various microcircuits, the temperature should be no more than 250 degrees. But in order to connect radio components, you will need to heat the soldering iron to more than 300 degrees.
• When working with electrical appliances, safety precautions must be observed. To do this, you need to make sure that the window is open and the socket is working. This is due to the fact that when working with solder, harmful chemical elements are released that negatively affect health. As for the serviceability of the outlet, this is also a very important point - in the process of severe overheating, fires often occur. Therefore, the workplace must first be prepared and secured, and only then can we begin to work.

If you take note of these little tricks , the process of soldering parts will go quickly, and most importantly, with high quality.

A soldering iron is a universal tool with which you can quickly connect broken wires or contacts, as well as quickly repair a microcircuit or connect light metal surfaces.

The ease of operation of the device allows any man to learn how to use it in the shortest possible time.

And what is important: working with a soldering iron does not require any professional skills.

Source: https://tokar.guru/instrumenty/payalniki/kak-pravilno-polzovatsya-payalnikom-s-kanifolyu-uchimsya-payat.html

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron and rosin

Knowledge of how to solder correctly is needed not only by radio amateurs and electrical installation specialists. Every home handyman has to deal with the need for soldering when repairing electrical appliances.

Preparing the soldering iron for use

Before soldering with a soldering iron, you should properly prepare it for work. In everyday life, an electric soldering iron with a copper tip is most often used, which, during storage and use, gradually becomes covered with a layer of oxide and is subject to mechanical damage. To obtain a solder joint of good quality, the soldering iron is prepared for use in the following sequence:

1. Using a finely cut file, clean the working part of the tip to a length of 1 cm from the edge. After cleaning, the tool should acquire a reddish color, characteristic of copper, and a metallic luster. During stripping, the tip is given a wedge-shaped, beveled, cone-shaped shape in order to solder what the master needs.
2. Plug in the soldering iron and heat it to operating temperature.
3. The tip must be tinned and covered with a thin layer of tin - the same solder used to solder the connected conductors. To do this, the tip of the tool is immersed in rosin, and then a piece of solder is passed along it. You should not use a solder rod with rosin inside for tinning a soldering iron. To distribute the solder evenly, rub the working edges against a metal surface.

During operation, the half-plate will burn and wear off, so the soldering iron will have to be cleaned and tinned several times during the soldering process. You can clean the tip with a piece of sandpaper.

If the master uses a tool with a nickel-plated, non-burnable rod, it will have to be cleaned with a special sponge or damp cloth. They tin such a sting in molten rosin, running a piece of solder over it.

Soldering can only be learned on the job, but before that it is advisable to become familiar with the basic operations.

Fluxing or tinning

The traditional and most affordable flux is rosin. If desired, you can solder with a solid substance or its alcohol solution (SKF, Rosin-gel, etc.), as well as TAGS flux.

The legs of radio components or chips are covered with half-milk at the factory. But to get rid of oxides, you can tin them again before installation, lubricating them with liquid flux and covering them with an even layer of molten solder.

Before processing with flux or tinning, copper wire is cleaned with fine emery cloth. This removes the oxide layer or enamel insulation. Liquid flux is applied with a brush, and then the soldering area is heated with a soldering iron and covered with a thin layer of tin. Tinning in solid rosin is done as follows:

• melt a piece of the substance on a stand and heat the conductor in it;
• feed the solder rod and distribute the molten metal evenly over the wire.

Correctly soldering massive copper, bronze or steel parts should be done using active fluxes that contain acids (F-34A, Glycerin-hydrazine, etc.). They will help create an even layer of poluda and firmly connect parts of large objects. Tin is applied to large surfaces with a soldering iron, spreading solder evenly over them. After working with active flux, acid residues should be neutralized with an alkaline solution (for example, soda).

Preheating and temperature selection

It is difficult for beginners to determine at what temperature the tool can start working. The degree of heating should be selected depending on the type of material:

• soldering microcircuits requires heating no higher than +250°C, otherwise the parts may be damaged;
• large individual radio components can withstand heating up to +300°C;
• Tinning and joining of copper wire can occur at +400°C or slightly lower;
• massive parts can be heated at the maximum power of the soldering iron (about +400°C).

Many models of instruments have a thermostat, and it is easy to determine the degree of heating. But in the absence of a sensor, it is worth keeping in mind that a household soldering iron can be heated to a maximum of +350 +400°C. You can start working with the tool if the rosin and solder melt within 1-2 seconds. Most POS grade solders have a melting point of about +250°C.

Even an experienced craftsman will not be able to solder correctly with a soldering iron that is not heated enough. With low heat, the solder structure becomes spongy or granular after solidification. Soldering does not have sufficient strength and does not ensure good contact between the parts, and such work is considered a defect.

Working with solder

When heated sufficiently, the molten solder should become flowable. For small jobs, you can take a drop of alloy on the tip of the tool and transfer it to the parts to be joined. But it is more convenient to use thin wire (rod) of different sections. Often inside the wire there is a layer of rosin, which helps to solder correctly with a soldering iron without distraction from the process.

With this method, a hot tool heats the surface of the connected conductors or parts. The end of the solder rod is brought to the tip and pushed a little (1-3 mm) under it. The metal instantly melts, after which the remainder of the rod is removed, and the solder is heated with a soldering iron until it acquires a bright shine.

When working with radio components, you need to take into account that heating is dangerous for them. All operations are performed within 1-2 seconds.

When soldering connections of single-core wires of large cross-section, you can use a thick rod. When the tool is heated sufficiently, it also melts quickly, but you can distribute it over the surfaces to be soldered more slowly, trying to fill all the grooves of the twist.

Source: https://odinelectric.ru/knowledgebase/kak-pravilno-payat-payalnikom

How to learn to solder with a soldering iron from scratch

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Any novice radio amateur, one way or another connected with electronics, has to solve the problem of how to learn how to solder with a soldering iron from scratch. At first glance, there is nothing complicated about this, but this is a common misconception of all novice electronics engineers, since without practical skills it is impossible to ensure a reliable and high-quality soldering connection.

What is soldering and what is the essence of the process

The end result of soldering is the joining of two metal elements. The soldering process itself is provided by an independent metal with a much lower melting point. It is this metal that performs the function of solder.

Each soldering method is based on the principle of heating metal elements at the connection point. The heating temperature must exceed the temperature at which the metal used for solder melts. In this mode, the solder metal, being molten, freely flows into the spaces and crevices between the parts, partially penetrating even into the metal structure itself. After solidification, a mechanical bond and electrical contact are formed in this place.

There are two main conditions, without which it will simply be impossible to solve the problem of how to solder correctly:

• At the point of soldering, the elements must be as clean as possible. The connection to the surface is carried out at the molecular level, and even a small dirt or oxide film will significantly reduce the reliability of the contact. It is quite possible that the parts will not connect at all.
• Compliance with the temperature regime mentioned earlier. If the temperature difference is insufficient, the solder crystal lattice will not be able to form normally due to thermal shrinkage during solidification.

Copper and its alloys are well joined with traditional solders. They are suitable for steel, aluminum and other metals. The only serious limitation is the soldering of large metal parts due to the impossibility of heating them to the required temperatures.

Most often, solder consists of a tin-lead alloy, which may contain varying amounts of tin. The percentage of content is displayed in the marking, for example, POS-40 or POS-60.

The melting temperature also depends on this indicator; for the first solder it is 235 degrees, and for the second it is 183 degrees. The melting point of POSV-33 solder, consisting of tin, lead and bismuth, is even lower.

Joining aluminum parts requires special solders with a high melting point.

Another important component is fluxes, with the help of which metal surfaces are cleaned of oxides in the form of films. The most widespread is rosin, which protects heated metal from contact with air.

Selection of fluxes and solders

Since the quality of soldering joints largely depends on the correct choice of fluxes and solders, these materials should be considered in more detail. Currently, there are a large number of these components suitable for almost all types of soldering.

The main function of fluxes is to pickle metal parts, remove the oxide film and subsequently protect the surface from corrosion. Flux coating ensures its cleanliness, good wetting and spreading of tin.

Fluxes are selected in accordance with the metals and alloys that need to be joined. The composition of any flux includes metal salts, alkalis and acids that actively react to increased temperature. In this regard, there is a conditional division of these materials into two types.

The first of them is active; it is based on hydrochloric, perchloric and other inorganic acids. Their aggressive effect on metal requires quick rinsing after finishing work. This is the only drawback of such fluxes, but with their help you can join almost any metals. They are available in liquid form and are considered more convenient for application. They add alcohol or glycerin, which completely evaporate when heated.

The second type of flux consists of rosin and is used for joining non-ferrous metals. For steel parts they are considered less effective. At the end of the work, the rosin must be washed off, since over time it causes corrosion and becomes an electrical conductor when left in a humid environment for a long time.

Solder for work is easier to select. Lead and tin compounds marked PIC are mainly used. The percentage of tin content is indicated by numbers following the letters. A higher tin content in solder provides higher mechanical strength and electrical conductivity of connections. At the same time, the melting temperature of solder with a high proportion of tin also decreases. The addition of lead normalizes solidification and prevents the tin from spreading.

Some modern solders are produced without lead (BP), instead of which zinc or indium is added. They have a higher melting point, but the joints are more durable and resistant to corrosion. And, on the contrary, there are solders made of light alloys that can spread from 90-110 degrees. They are used to connect components that are highly sensitive to overheating.

Soldering iron selection

There are several types of soldering irons used at home. They are designed for different voltages and can operate from 12, 220 and 380 volts.

The power of a particular soldering iron is selected based on the work performed:

• Soldering of electronic parts and components – 40-60 W.
• Parts up to 1 mm thick – 80-100 W.
• Elements 2 mm thick require a power of 100 W or more.

As a rule, home craftsmen have two soldering irons - low and medium power, capable of solving almost all problems. Training can be completed at any of them. It is recommended to solder thick-walled parts using professional equipment.

Preparation for soldering

The very first time you connect the soldering iron to the network, it will definitely smoke. At this moment, the factory lubricant burns out. After the emission of smoke stops, the soldering iron must be turned off and allowed to cool. Then, before soldering, you need to sharpen the tip.

The soldering iron tip is made in the form of a cylindrical rod. The material is copper alloy. Fixation is carried out with a clamping screw. In most cases, the tip comes without sharpening, and therefore it should be prepared. You can change the shape using a hammer, file or sandpaper.

Each type of work requires its own tip configuration:

• The shape is flat or blade-shaped by flattening. Flat corner sharpening may be required to join massive parts.
• Sharpening in the shape of a sharp cone or pyramid is required in order to solder small parts.
• A less sharp cone is needed for soldering thick conductors and large parts.

In the absence of a protective coating, the tip of the tool must be tinning. A thin layer of tin is applied to the surface of the working part. This procedure is performed during the first start-up, when there is no longer any smoke emission. After the tool is ready, we learn to solder.

Methods for soldering parts and components

Soldering wires is considered the easiest procedure. The ends of each wire are dipped into the dissolved flux, after which it is necessary to go over them with a soldering iron, the tip of which is also well moistened with flux.

During tinning itself, it is recommended to shake off all excess solder. During the joining process, a twist is gradually formed. It warms up, and all free space is filled with tin.

In another case, the ends are soaked in flux, and soldering is done immediately, without tinning. This method is often used in connections of thin conductors or many wire strands. With a good flux and a powerful soldering iron, a high-quality and reliable connection is ensured.

Working with electronics is much more difficult. This already requires certain knowledge and practical skills. However, even a novice master can perform simple steps to repair the circuit:

• Before soldering, the terminal elements with legs must be fixed in their holes with wax or plasticine. On the other side of the board, the soldering iron must be pressed tightly to the terminal to warm it up. Next, thin solder in the form of a wire with flux is inserted into this place. Very little tin is required, the main thing is that it flows evenly into the hole from all sides.
• If the hole is too large and the legs are dangling in it, this area should be moistened with a small amount of flux. Next, the tin is brought to the leg and flows down it, after which the hole is evenly filled.

Source: https://electric-220.ru/news/kak_nauchitsja_pajat_pajalnikom_s_nulja/2018-11-28-1610

How to properly solder with a soldering iron with solder and rosin

If in Soviet times there was a game for schoolchildren, the essence of which was to solder a radio-electronic microcircuit on their own, which they successfully did, but now the question of how to properly use a soldering iron puts many in a difficult position. Although learning how to solder with a soldering iron is not so difficult, and having mastered the basics for “dummies”, you will be able to carry out simple work on your own without turning to specialists.

Soldering with a soldering iron

In order to start soldering, you need to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools. Regardless of the type of proposed work, the following requirements are imposed on the workplace:

• The presence of good lighting will allow you not only to work comfortably, but also to notice small flaws in the soldered parts, which is difficult if there is a lack of light;
• No flammable items;
• Free working space on which you can easily place the part to be soldered;
• The presence of ventilation will make work not only more comfortable, but also safer; inhaling molten rosin has a negative effect on the respiratory system;
• A magnifying glass makes it possible to work even with small parts and thin wires;
• A simple stand solves the problem of placing a heated soldering iron.

The next stage of preparation will be the choice of tool, and a beginner is always faced with the question of what is needed for soldering with a soldering iron.

How to use a soldering iron: materials, instructions, tips

There are many methods that are successfully used to splice wires, but the most effective of them is the well-known soldering. Only it guarantees complete inseparability of connections experiencing constant increased load. It may seem to novice home electricians and radio amateurs that this process is indecently elementary.

Those craftsmen who often have to work with the device (both at work and at home) think differently. Such people believe that the ability to solder well is akin to art. Therefore, before starting any practical exercises, it is better to ask how to use a soldering iron most effectively, and how to solder wires correctly.

Even minimal knowledge will help you quickly master new skills.

Soldering iron and its tasks

Soldering is the joining of metal contacts using a melt (lead and tin), which has electrolytic (conducting) properties. The difference between this operation and welding is that not a single element being connected melts during the process: the solder used has a lower melting point than that of metal conductors. After the melt hardens, a permanent contact connection is formed.

Devices used at home are electric soldering irons. The choice of device depends on what work the master plans to perform in the future:

• for soldering electronic elements, a low power of 40-60 W will be enough;
• if the thickness of the soldered parts is no more than 1 mm, then 80-100 W will be enough;
• elements with walls up to 2 mm require heavy artillery - a tool with a power above 100 W.

To be able to carry out almost any similar work at home, it is better for a home craftsman to purchase two different devices at once - the first and the second; there is no need for a more powerful one: it is better if an experienced “soldering iron” person handles the soldering of thick-walled parts.

Compositions and additional tools

You need to purchase a few more auxiliary materials. This list includes:

1. Solder, which was already mentioned in passing. For connecting copper wires, tin-lead solders POS-40, POS-50 or POS-60 are optimal, where the numbers are the percentage of tin content, since lead is added only to reduce the cost. For soldering aluminum contacts - zinc-based alloys: TsA-15 (zinc + aluminum), grade A (zinc, copper, tin), TsO-12, P250A (zinc + tin).
2. Flux. It is used to clean wires from various contaminants, as well as from oxide (oxide) film. The purpose of the flux is to ensure good adhesion (adhesion) of the solder to the surface. More often, rosin or mixtures with it (glycerin, alcohol, zinc) are used in this role: for example, LTI-120. For silver and stainless steel, acidic (active) fluxes are used, but their residues must be washed off with alcohol.

There are also solder pastes, which contain two main components - solder and flux. The mixture is applied to the part, then it is heated with a soldering iron tip. The purpose of use is soldering in hard-to-reach places for surface mounting of SMD components.

To work normally with a soldering iron you will need:

• a stand that has two metal supports - for the body and the handle;
• file for sharpening or cleaning the tip;
• miniature pliers or tweezers with heat-shrinkable tubing - for holding quickly and very hot wires;
• alcohol to remove flux residues, a rag to remove solder;
• sandpaper (needle file) for cleaning conductors;
• heat shrink tubes of different diameters and/or electrical tape for conductors.

Preparing for work

Before using a soldering iron, it is better to study all the hidden points that will make the work convenient and safe. The first concern is the organization of the workplace. The main requirement is its proximity to the outlet, so that if necessary, you can turn off the device from the power supply almost instantly.

A convenient stand that allows you to quickly pick up and put the device back has already been written about. You can make it yourself using wood or textolite as a base. M-shaped posts are usually made of steel wire; an alternative is a rod whose diameter is 4-5 mm.

It’s hard to imagine the convenient work of a “soldering iron” without small containers for rosin and solder. The best option is fairly wide but low jars made of metal. It is recommended to mount them on a stand for a soldering iron.

Conductors

They are stripped of insulation (30-50 mm or more if the wire diameter is large), then the oxide film is mechanically removed. Clean the surfaces using sandpaper until shiny. If the metal wires are heavily contaminated, a solvent is used. Soldering acid is used to process steel parts.

Sting

The non-ideal condition of the tool requires preliminary preparation, since it is impossible to use a soldering iron if the tip of the tip has lost its shape. The work area is first inspected. If defects are detected - sagging or gouges - the original shape (45° bevel) is restored with a file.

Next, the soldering iron tip is tinned and covered with solder. The operation is done like this:

• First, the device is heated to operating temperature;
• one side of the tip is first placed in rosin, then in solder;
• excess solder is wiped off with a rag without turning off the tool; an alternative is to wipe the surface on a wooden surface;
• Prepare the second side of the soldering iron in the same way.

If the work area has one bevel, only that bevel is tinned.

Soldering

Now about how to use a soldering iron for its intended purpose: how to solder wires correctly. The process itself is simple, but for better results you need to become familiar with several conditions. After turning on a household tool, you usually wait about 5 minutes, during which time it heats up to the optimal temperature, allowing the rosin to boil and the melt to become homogeneous.

A temperature of 240-280° is considered normal. With insufficient heating, the flux will only soften slightly, and the tin will melt slightly. Solder cannot be used in this condition. Overheating will also lead to a “disaster”: the flux will hiss and spit, and the melt will lose its plasticity. In such a situation, the soldering iron is disconnected from the network and given time to cool down.

Tinning

When the melting point of the rosin is reached, the stripped, prepared part of the conductor is placed on a piece, then heated with a soldering iron until the entire wire is completely immersed in rosin. After this, take a drop of solder onto the tip and quickly distribute it along the wire, which is turned slightly. The “ready” copper conductor gets rid of the “treacherous” redness and becomes silvery. Proceed in the same way with all parts intended for soldering.

Main job

The prepared conductors are tightly connected. In some cases, it is more advisable to twist. Taking solder onto the tip, press it with little force onto the wires, which are held together by hand.

When the spread solder covers the entire joint, the operation is considered successfully completed, but the soldering iron is not removed until the solder has cooled. To speed up this process, which takes only 3-4 seconds, it is recommended to blow on it.

If the thickness of the solder is not satisfactory, then transfer another drop with a sting.

The last step is to isolate the junction. After the conductors have cooled, tape is wrapped around them. Those who want greater reliability put on a heat-shrinkable tube, which they then heat up. If the work involved electrical wiring, then use combined protection - both options at once: after winding the tape, heat shrink is put on it.

Twist

To ensure greater reliability of the connection, it is recommended to pre-twist the ends of the conductors. The melt is applied in such a way that it gets into the gaps between them. Butt soldering of parts is not encouraged for obvious reasons: such a connection cannot boast of strength. If you need to solder a wire to the middle of another, then the end of the first is wrapped around the second; an extreme case if the length is insufficient is to form a loop.

Soldering Features

They exist if you use other compounds and more complex wires.

1. Flux operation. In the case of an active mixture, the wires are not first cleaned of the oxide film; the acid will “eat” it. They are lubricated with flux, then heated with a soldering iron, onto which a small amount of solder is taken. In subsequent actions, there are almost no differences from the “timeless classic”, except for wiping the soldering areas with a cotton swab and alcohol. A simple operation will destroy the remnants of the aggressive composition.
2. Stranded conductors. Here, before tinning, all elements are untwisted so that they can be immersed in rosin. When applying solder, watch all the wiring very carefully, since each one must have a thin layer of it. Before soldering, they are twisted together again, and then acted in the manner described above.
3. Union of copper and aluminum. They cannot be harnessed into one cart: in this case, soldering is impossible. The reason is “incompatibility of characters”: different degrees of thermal conductivity and electrical conductivity. This union will inevitably lead to separation - a breakdown in contact. There is an exit. It is the most reliable and simple, shown in the photo.

Any person may need such an operation. The answers to questions about how to use a soldering iron and how to solder wires correctly are not difficult to understand. All you need for success is a good tool, quality materials and what will come soon - experience that needs to be “gained.”

You can see how the whole “live” process happens in this video:

Source: https://dom-i-remont.info/posts/obshhie-voprosy/kak-polzovatsya-payalnikom-ballada-o-tom-kak-pravilno-payat-provoda/

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron - working with a soldering iron and its features

The soldering process itself is not complicated - we prepare the parts, treat them with flux, heat them up, and add solder in the soldering area. But, as in any business, there are some nuances that you need to know in order to get a quality result.

What is the soldering process?

Soldering is performed when two parts need to be joined.

Before the process, it is necessary to prepare the components: clean them from dirt and remove the oxide film at the soldering site, since the presence of even slight dirt or oxidation will prevent reliable joining of the materials.

When choosing solder, you need to be guided by the rule - the melting temperature of the solder should be lower than the melting temperature of the elements that are planned to be connected.

Procedure for soldering technology:

The surfaces of the parts must be cleaned of dirt, rust, oxide film, etc., so that the base metal shines. To remove oxidation and prevent it in the future, it is necessary to coat the parts at the joint with flux. You can apply it with a brush in a thin layer.

An alternative to the second step is a processing option called tinning. Mainly used for processing wires. The stripped wire is placed on rosin, heated with a soldering iron, the wire must be turned so that it is all in the molten rosin, then a thin layer of molten solder is applied, which chemically connects with the base metal (you can take a drop of solder directly with a soldering iron and apply it to the part).

The parts are connected mechanically: for example, when working with wires, you need to twist them; The output elements on the board are fixed with plasticine, wax or hot glue; other parts can be clamped with pliers or a vice.

Additional flux is applied to avoid oxidation when heated. Solder is applied with a heated soldering iron.

For ease of understanding, we attach photo instructions on how to solder correctly.

Types of soldering irons

In everyday life, networked soldering irons operating on a voltage of 220 V are common.

Professionals prefer soldering stations. Their main advantage is the presence of a thermostat, thanks to which the set temperature is stably ensured.

In the case of network soldering irons, the temperature is determined by the rosin or flux; when the soldering iron is ready for use, they begin to boil well, but should not be allowed to burn.

For home use, you can purchase two soldering irons with low (40-60 W) and medium power (100 W). A low-power soldering iron is designed for soldering parts in electronics.

Flux

This is a mixture for removing oxidation from metal parts before the soldering process. Flux treatment allows the solder to better spread over the joint and protect it from corrosion when heated. Flux can be found in the form of liquid, paste and powder. It is, of course, more convenient to apply liquid flux.

Fluxes can be rosin, ammonia, boric and orthophosphoric acids, and regular aspirin tablets.

It is easy to find flux on sale for any type of work, and as a rule, the label already indicates how and for what materials to use it. This allows you not to engage in amateur activities, but to use an already prepared mixture, which will avoid surprises in the form of soot.

Rosin is a popular flux, has a pleasant odor when heated, and is non-toxic. How to solder with a soldering iron with rosin: you can immediately take the liquid version of rosin, it is more convenient. If we are dealing with solid rosin, then first you need to melt it with a soldering iron and apply it to the soldering site with a tip.

Rosin is suitable for soldering copper conductors, radio and electrical elements, and behaves well with gold and silver. Residues of rosin after soldering must be removed to prevent metal corrosion.

Alcohol-rosin flux (abbreviated SKF) is rosin with alcohol in proportions of one to three. It is used in the same cases as regular rosin. Easier to use due to its liquid state.

Solder

Solder has a lower melting point than the material of the elements being joined, so when hot it envelops the joint, and after cooling the two parts become one. At what temperature to solder depends on the chemical composition of the parts and the selected solder.

Alloys used as solders:

• tin+lead
• copper
• cadmium
• nickel
• silver, etc.

Lead-tin solders PIC are most often found on the market. The abbreviation PIC is followed by a numerical value that indicates the amount of tin. The higher it is, the more tin, which has a positive effect on the strength and electrical conductivity of the future connection.

This tip will help you figure out how to solder with tin correctly; rosin is usually chosen as the flux (the most convenient option is tin wire, which already has rosin inside).

Lead serves as a regulator of the solidification process, since tin without this auxiliary element will crack and become covered with needles. Lead can be replaced by indium or zinc (lead-free solders).

For aluminum, you will need to choose specialized flux (F-61A, F-34A) and solder (there are different options).

Soldering iron tips

Almost all tips are made of copper, available with or without coating. Chrome-plated and nickel-plated tips are more heat-resistant, durable and not subject to oxidation.

Uncoated tips require constant cleaning, since when they oxidize they stop working efficiently (the solder does not stick). And during cleaning, the tip wears off quite quickly.

The choice of tip shape depends on the task at hand, but the awl and spatula shapes are considered universal.

Shutdown

After working with the soldering iron is completed, you need to clear the solder tip, and you can turn off the soldering iron. The hot tip needs to be inserted into the solid rosin and wait for it to cool, remove the tip, the excess rosin will drain and the soldering iron, which has now completely cooled, can be put back in place.

Armed with good theoretical knowledge of how to solder correctly with a soldering iron, in practice you can achieve success in this matter.

Photo tips on how to solder correctly with a soldering iron

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Source: https://instrumentgid.ru/kak-pravilno-payat-payalnikom/

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron: instructions for beginners

When a novice electrician watches a master work with a soldering iron, all the actions seem simple and understandable.

However, as soon as you pick up the tool yourself, troubles immediately begin: the solder does not hold, the contacts fall off, the insulation burns, the tip becomes covered with soot.

To prevent this from happening, certain rules must be followed.

The master knows them and fulfills them. For a beginner, I advise you to first understand how to solder correctly with a soldering iron. Only after that do you take on this work.

3 main secrets: posture, light and air

Even at home, to perform high-quality soldering, a comfortable worker position with good lighting is required. I recommend installing a desktop near a window that receives sunlight during the day and an artificial source of light in the evening.

Soldering involves heating substances and releasing fumes. Although heated rosin smells like pine needles, this smell is still harmful if inhaled frequently. And other fluxes and acids are even more dangerous. Entering the body through the respiratory system, they accumulate and cause chronic diseases.

Therefore, ventilation is important. Work with an open window, or even better, use forced exhaust.

Useful devices

A short tin with a paper lining is necessary for working with solder and rosin.

A special stand helps to store a heated soldering iron, and a sponge allows you to clean the hot tip from oxides.

It is convenient to remove excess melted solder with a desoldering pump.

Working with small objects is made easier by tweezers, small vices, and “third hand” devices. The simplest option: regular pliers with an elastic band.

You can make other simple designs with your own hands.

Selecting and preparing a soldering iron

The sale offers various models with voltage from 12 to 220 or 380 volts. Each soldering iron is created for a specific job, although it has universal capabilities.

They are assessed by the power consumption of electrical energy, which is spent on heating the tip of the tip.

It is convenient to solder radio components with a soldering iron with a power of 40÷60 watts, and for wires choose 80÷100.

For beginner soldering ironers, it is enough to use simple models of two soldering iron designs with:

1. heating from nichrome wire and a copper rod;
2. ceramic insert and copper tip with nickel coating.

The first type of soldering iron is cheaper, but it requires constant care of the tip, takes longer to heat up to the desired temperature, and wears out faster.

A soldering iron with a ceramic insert works better, but is more expensive. In addition, ceramics require careful handling. It can break due to mechanical shock.

Personal preferences

I have been using transformer soldering irons of the “Moment” type for more than 30 years.

Some people don't like it because of the extra weight. But for me this indicator is not critical. The industrial wattage of 65 is good for amateur radio soldering, but it is not enough for connecting electrical wires.

Therefore, I assembled a more powerful structure with my own hands.

This technology is described in a separate article on the website.

About counterfeit brands

For a long time I could not understand why I like transformer soldering irons, but they are massively criticized on the Internet. Even in the above article, readers expressed a negative opinion about them, criticizing their fragility and poor quality.

I realized this only after a visitor to my site sent me a burnt-out soldering iron from the Chinese company Licota for experiments.

It looks very nice, is light in weight, fits comfortably in the hand and is originally packaged. Upon closer examination of it, I discovered many installation and design defects. I wrote them down in separate articles:

When buying cheap soldering irons from dubious sellers, you can end up with low-quality products, lose money and time. Please pay attention to electrical performance and warranties.

There are other different types of soldering irons designed to get professional work done well. But it’s better to start learning soldering using the models described above.

About sharpening the tip

Cleanliness is not only a guarantee of our health, but also a guarantee of high-quality soldering. It must be observed during work.

The copper tip of the soldering iron heats up to such a state that oxides and carbon deposits form on it. When they penetrate the solder, you can forget about the quality of the soldering. Therefore, the tip of the tip should always be clean and well sharpened.

Its shape is created for a specific type of parts to be soldered:

• The “flat head screwdriver” transfers heat well. It is used to heat massive parts;
• A “pyramid” or “sharp cone” makes it more convenient to control the amount of heating. It is used to connect small radio elements or thin wires;
• The “blunted cone” is sharpened for soldering medium-section wires.

The first type of sharpening is more popular. It can be formed by hammer blows. Then the metal is better compacted and retains its properties longer.

By placing this tip on the part to be soldered with a plane or an acute angle, you can regulate the degree of its heating.

Modern ceramic soldering irons have a set of removable tips of the most necessary shapes. They are coated with a layer of nickel on top and do not require sharpening or preparatory treatment.

How to tin a copper tip

The tip of a new soldering iron without a protective nickel coating must be coated with a thin layer of solder, which will protect it from carbon deposits and premature wear. For this:

1. the soldering iron is turned on under voltage, heating the tip to working condition;
2. immerse it in a piece of rosin;
3. melt the solder, distributing it over the surface of the tip tip. It is convenient to use a wooden object.

What are the soldering steps?

The main objective of this technology is to connect two metal parts, most often conductors, with a low-melting alloy so that they hold firmly and pass electric current with the lowest possible resistance.

To do this, you need to perform a series of actions sequentially. Let's look at them using the example of soldering wires. This:

• removing insulation from the connected ends of the wire;
• mechanical stripping of metal cores to an ideal state of oxides;
• heat treatment with flux - tinning the ends with a thin layer;
• heating the solder and applying it to the soldering area.

Removing insulation

The dielectric layer of the wire can be made of polyethylene, fabric, varnish or other similar material. It needs to be removed.

This work is best done with a sharp knife, placing its blade almost parallel to the axis of the metal core. This prevents cutting and deep scratches. They weaken mechanical strength and increase electrical resistance. This cannot be allowed.

Thin wires coated with varnish can simply be treated with an open flame of matches or a lighter. The same method is suitable for twisted pair and even thicker wires.

There are special pliers of various designs on sale for stripping insulation from the end of a wire of any diameter. They allow this work to be done professionally without damaging the core.

After removing the insulation, the condition of the metal surface is assessed. Pay attention to cleanliness, absence of dents and cuts.

Removing dirt and oxide film

Only pure metal can ensure a high-quality connection of parts when soldering. It is created by mechanical cleaning of the surface and chemical solutions.

First, they work with a knife blade, lightly pressing it against the contaminated metal at an obtuse angle. The core is pulled from the insulation layer to the bare end, rotating slightly in one direction. The metal will immediately lose its dullness and begin to shine.

Chemical cleaning involves treatment with solvents, alcohol, and FES flux.

Tinning of contact pads

The final cleaning of the metal surface of the conductor is carried out by heat treatment with flux, using a tinned soldering iron tip. The most popular and universal remedy is rosin. It is used in a solid state, dissolved in alcohol or jelly-like.

The sale allows you to purchase rosin in any form and provides a wide range of other fluxes.

For soldering parts of electrical circuits, it is not recommended to use fluxes containing acids . They are quite difficult to completely neutralize, and even minor residues quickly oxidize the metal and destroy its structure.

The sequence of tinning a wire core with solid rosin:

1. Heat the soldering iron to the desired temperature. It can range from 180 to 240 degrees and depends on the solder and the metal parts being connected. To control the heating, the tips are touched with a tip of solid rosin. If it begins to rapidly form steam, then heating is normal.
2. The cleaned conductor is placed on the rosin and touched with the tip of the soldering iron. The wire is rotated to coat it evenly with molten flux.
3. The tip of a soldering iron melts the solder and applies it to the rosin-treated wire, evenly distributing it over the surface.

A solution of rosin in alcohol is applied with a brush to the surface to be tinned or simply dripped through a dropper tube.

Jelly-like rosin is squeezed out of a special syringe, which is very convenient to do.

The conductor treated with liquid or jelly-like rosin is heated with a heated soldering iron tip with a drop of solder, accelerating it over the entire contact area.

Direct soldering

It is started after both contact pads are prepared for connection: cleaned of dirt and oxides, tinned.

The soldered ends are connected together. A piece of solder is placed on them with a heated soldering iron, ensuring that it spreads over both areas. After this, the tip is sharply retracted to the side, and the parts remain motionless until the tin completely hardens. This is judged by a slight darkening of its color.

Correctly performed soldering is distinguished by a strong connection of contacts and a smooth surface of the solidified solder, which is slightly shiny. Its quality is checked using a small mechanical tensile force.

If the surface of the solder has darkening and unevenness, then the soldering is unreliable and needs to be corrected.

5 Tips for Creating Reliable Soldering

These include:

1. Warming up of the parts to be connected should be done not with the tip of the tip, but with its side surface. This provides greater contact and better temperature transfer. However, when working with a tip with a blunt tip or a transformer soldering iron, this advice will practically not help.
2. To give increased strength to the connection being created, additional twisting of the wires is done.
3. A mechanical device, the third hand, makes it easier to fix the stationary position of the parts being connected.
4. New electronic components are manufactured with tinned contact surfaces. If they are not contaminated in any way, then flux and solder can be immediately applied to them without prior tinning. This speeds up the soldering process.
5. The sale offers craftsmen tubular solder, inside of which there is a flux. Usually this is rosin. This combination is easier to work with: the number of intermediate operations is reduced due to the simultaneous supply of both components.

4 signs of high-quality soldering

The reliability of the connection is assessed by:

1. the bright shine of the created surface layer;
2. absence of excess solder on parts;
3. tensile strength of control mechanical force;
4. integrity of the insulation layer, absence of traces of melting.

Additionally, I recommend watching the video from the owner of AutoAndElectronics “How to solder correctly with a soldering iron.”

If you still have questions about this topic, then ask them in the comments. I will definitely answer.

Source: https://HouseDiz.ru/kak-payat-payalnikom-pravilno-instrukciya-dlya-novichkov/