How to solder a broken wire

Five ways to solder headphones

How to solder a broken wire

High-quality headphones are not cheap, but sometimes they break too quickly. This does not mean that you should immediately throw away your old headset and go buy a new one. The most common breakdown is fraying and breaking of the wire in the middle of the cord or at the point of contact with the speaker or plug. If there is no desire or opportunity to obtain warranty repairs, then you can repair the device yourself.

Causes and diagnosis of malfunctions

With regular deformation of the connecting cables, the wires inside them fray and may break. The areas of greatest risk are the connection between the cable and the speaker or plug.

However, with a mechanical impact such as a strong blow (the fall of a heavy angular object - a box, for example) or compression (squeezing between the door and the jamb), this can happen to any place.

Diagnostics without special tools begins with probing the cable. Bend the wire at a right angle with your thumb. Move down and listen to the sound in your headphones. If at some point a sound appears or becomes louder, then this is the fracture site. Try twisting the plug and speakers using the same logic.

If you have a tester, then do the same, looking at the resistance values. If the wire is not damaged anywhere, then the readings will not change regardless of its position.

Soldering wires with plug

It's easy to solder headphones with your own hands. The instructions given are relevant for a minijack, but the principle is little different in the case of other connectors.

First you need to prepare the entire tool:

  • soldering iron;
  • solder;
  • liquid flux or rosin;
  • stationery knife;
  • plug

The soldering iron is plugged in to allow it to heat up. Make an incision 5-15 mm above the plug to protect yourself from a potentially worn area.

There are 3 to 4 wires inside. Before soldering, they must be cleared of 10-15 mm of rubber insulation, and 3-4 mm of insulating varnish must be removed. This can be done using a utility knife or fine-grained sandpaper.

Then you need to take a new plug, disassemble it and thread the wires into the housing. If you want to keep the old plug, you will have to carefully remove the insulation from it.

Next, select a heat-shrinkable tube of suitable diameter and hide the wires in it. The excess length is cut off in advance. (You can skip this step.)

To solder, you need to tin the wires and contacts from the headphones - cover the tip of the soldering iron with solder, touch each wire that was initially attached to the rosin with it, and treat the contacts in the same way.

When connecting contacts, do not confuse the position of each wire.

Diagrams for connecting headphones to standard plugs

After soldering, the headphones are connected and their functionality is checked. If everything is in order, then insulate the exposed part with heat shrink or electrical tape. You just need to assemble the new plug, and put the rubber tip from the handle on the old one (you can secure it with glue).

Other connectors

When repairing other connectors, it is not the headphone soldering pattern that changes, but the order in which the contacts are connected. If in the case of a two-pin connection it is difficult to make a mistake, then 5 wires can easily be mixed up.

In a three-pin plug, a copper wire is connected to the largest contact, and two colored wires are connected to the remaining small ones. If there is no microphone, then 4 wires can be connected in the same way to a plug of this type, the only difference is that there are two copper cables instead of one, they need to be twisted together. If there is one, then the last wire (fourth or fifth) is responsible for the microphone; there is a special contact for it.

Soldering with speaker

Sometimes the contact breaks inside the speaker. In such cases, repairs begin with disassembling the headphones. They try not to shake or tug the device to avoid tearing off the board, inspect the structure and find the damaged area. All broken wires will have to be soldered.

If the cable breaks at the “input” of the earphone, and due to the structure of the case it is impossible to pull it out, then it is better to make a cut at the base. Cut the cord 20 mm from the end of the adapter. It is necessary to remove 80 mm of the thickest insulating layer. Do the same with the internal insulation, but be careful not to touch the wires. Next, the ends are cleaned and tinned according to the standard procedure.

Insert the cord into the housing and unsolder the old wires one by one, soldering new ones in the same places. After soldering is completed, the earphone is assembled and immediately tested for functionality. If the sound is of poor quality or completely absent, then disassemble the case and re-inspect the contacts. The possibility of damage not related to the speakers cannot be ruled out.

How to do without a soldering iron

If you don't have a soldering iron, then this is not critical. The described technique is perfect for ordinary headphones without a microphone and control buttons. Unfortunately, it is useless if the cord breaks near the speaker.

List of what you need:

  • knife;
  • lighter;
  • scotch;
  • working AUX cable.

Cut off a part of the cable with a connector no shorter than 7 cm, remove the rubber braid with a knife, exposing about 2 cm. You can clean the varnish using sandpaper or a lighter. In order not to damage the wiring, the fire must be extinguished periodically. The carbon deposits can be easily removed with your fingers, but you need to wait until it cools down.

Make an incision a few centimeters above the plug to ensure that the erased area is removed.

Twist all paired wires as tightly as possible. If there are more than three of them, then the two extra ones (responsible for the microphone) can be hidden or cut off, and the sound input will stop working. Sometimes the colors match, but it’s better to check the combination by inserting the connector into the socket of the player with music turned on.

For insulation, use electrical tape, treating each individual pair. After this, they are connected and wrapped in 3-5 layers. You can use wide tape (painting tape will also work) or thin thermal tubes.

Repairing a headset without soldering

The headset features volume control and a built-in microphone. Its cord has 4-5 wires twisted instead of three, so only regular headphones can be repaired with an AUX cable.

If you don’t want to give up these functions, you can find a similar cable with a working plug. It can be taken from a device with broken speakers and microcircuits - they still cannot be repaired.

Remove excess rubber and varnish as described above. However, there will be no extra wires left - all of them need to be correctly matched and twisted. Any method will work for re-isolation.

Sometimes finding the right cord is difficult. You can try connecting a new plug by simply wrapping the contacts with the appropriate wires. It is important to isolate them from each other. But this method is unreliable - better find a soldering iron.

Source: https://svaring.com/soldering/praktika/pajka-naushnikov

How to solder a wire without a soldering iron

How to solder a broken wire

Sometimes situations arise when you urgently need to solder wires, but there is no soldering iron at hand. A problem arises: how to solder a wire without a soldering iron? This is where advice from home craftsmen comes to the rescue.

Preparing wires for soldering

Materials for soldering wires without a soldering iron

To carry out the soldering process, you will need a heating source and the same solder and flux (rosin). To facilitate connection of wires, it is better to use solder in the form of a thin wire.

Important! The best option for soldering is to use a lead-tin tube with flux inside. There is no need to apply rosin and solder separately.

Using the tinning method when soldering

How to properly solder with a soldering iron with acid

A quick way to solder wires is tinning. To do this, you can use an ordinary nail or a piece of copper wire, the end of which must be flattened with a hammer. Soldering is done as follows:

  1. The ends of the wires, stripped of insulation, are twisted.
  2. Flux is applied to the twist.
  3. Solder is converted into powder using a file or needle file.
  4. The flux on the twist is generously sprinkled with lead-tin chips.
  5. A metal rod (nail, copper wire, etc.) is heated over an open fire. A gas burner or a blowtorch can be used for this.
  6. The hot core is passed along the twisted wires until a tinned connection surface is obtained.

Features of soldering in the groove

Connecting both single-core and multi-core cables with a cross-section of 3 mm2 without soldering equipment is possible in an original way:

  • twist the stripped ends of the wires;
  • a piece of foil is bent so as to form an elongated bath;
  • a twist is placed in it;
  • Flux is applied to the stripped wires and tin powder is added;
  • the foil is heated with an open flame from a lighter or other flame source;
  • during heating, the twist is rotated around its axis;
  • upon completion of soldering, the remaining foil is removed;
  • the soldered twist is wrapped in shrink film and heated until a dense layer of insulation is obtained.

Soldering dishes or containers

Over time, metal utensils can rust. There is no need to rush to throw away a leaky pan; it should be sealed.

Soldering station - operating principle and types

How to do this without a soldering iron? There is a simple way to do this. For the sting you will need a piece of metal strip 30-40 mm wide and no more than 1 mm thick. This is something that can be used instead of a soldering iron. You also need to prepare a piece of lead-tin alloy, flux and a blowtorch or gas torch. The work is carried out in several stages:

  1. The metal strip is cut so that it is convenient to hold it with your hand. This side of the strip is wrapped with heat-resistant material.
  2. The second end is cut in the shape of the letter V. It is sharpened with a file.
  3. The pan is turned upside down. Some material with a metal plate is placed under it so that the metal fits tightly from below to the hole in the bottom.
  4. Use sandpaper to clean the surface around the hole.
  5. Solder is cut into pieces ø 3-5 mm.
  6. Flux is applied to the cleaned surface.
  7. Then pieces of solder are placed around the hole.
  8. The working end of the strip is heated over an open fire.
  9. A homemade soldering iron is used to tin the repaired area of ​​the bottom of the pan.
  10. After cooling, the solder is polished with emery.

Note! To solder dishes and various containers for preparing food, you need to use a food alloy, which consists of 90% tin. This metal is absolutely harmless to human health.

Solder paste for soldering without a soldering iron

Solder paste includes flux and solder. This is very convenient when soldering without a soldering iron. There is no need to tinker with these two components separately. It is enough to apply the paste once to the junction of the wires and then heat it to the melting temperature of the solder.

Solder paste consists of metal powder, flux, and fixative (an adhesive substance to hold the alloy in a liquid state within the soldering area). The paste contains tin and lead powder with the addition of silver. The proportions of the composition vary depending on the purpose of the product.

When heated, the flux instantly evaporates, the solder firmly and tightly covers the entire twist of wires. The result is high quality soldering. The applied composition allows you to do without soldering irons and soldering stations.

For food soldering, it is recommended to use the following brands of pastes: POS 63, POM 3 and others. Paste soldering is used to work with microcircuits, where instead of soldering irons, thin metal rods are used, heated by external heat sources.

Foil soldering method

Foil can successfully replace solder. This is a thin aluminum film that requires minimal thermal energy to melt. This soldering method is convenient for connecting thin wires that Chinese manufacturers use in their many electrical and electronic products. Proceed as follows:

  • the wires are cleared of insulation along the ends of 1.5-2 cm;
  • the veins are twisted;
  • the twist is covered with a thin layer of solder paste and wrapped in foil;
  • the resulting compound is heated with a gas lighter or a candle flame;
  • within 1 minute a strong soldered connection of wires is formed.

Soldering wires for garlands and headphones without a soldering iron

On the radio market, almost all garlands and most headphones are made in China. Chinese manufacturers, in their struggle to save materials, use wires in their products that are so thin that it is quite difficult to solder them to each other with a regular soldering iron.

Therefore, when performing repair work, it is better to do without a soldering iron at all. The stripped ends of the wires are twisted into a tight connection. Take a pointed rod of copper wire ø 1-2 mm. The twist is coated with solder paste. The rod is heated with a candle at a distance of 3 cm from the tip of the tip. Simultaneously with this tip, twisting is carried out, obtaining high-quality soldering. This is one of the best methods on how to solder thin wires without a soldering iron.

There is another ingenious way to solder thin wires. An ordinary paper clip is used as a soldering rod. It is bent so that it is convenient to solder, holding the rod with pliers.

Soldering wires to the board without a soldering iron

There are cases when the wiring comes off the board. What is the best way to solder a wire to an old place in an electronic device circuit when you don’t have a soldering iron at hand?

A heating source will be required. If there is a gas burner or a blowtorch nearby, this will be the best condition. In the absence of them, an ordinary lighter and any pointed metal object, preferably a nail, will be useful. The thinner the metal, the faster it will heat up from the flame of a lighter.

As a rule, there may be remnants of solder and flux in place of the old soldering. Even if there are none, then the tip of the torn wire is cleaned and pressed with a hot nail to the old attachment point. You need to act carefully so as not to damage the board itself. The same operation can be performed using a sewing needle.

Additional Information. Some home craftsmen use an ordinary pencil. It is cleaned so that the graphite rod is 1.5 cm long. A wire loop connected to one of the wires of the 12-volt power supply is placed on the end of the pencil. The other wire is connected to the twist. In contact with the solder paste on the strand, the graphite heats and melts the solder.

In addition to the soldering methods described, you can find many more ways to do without soldering equipment. The main condition in this matter is to ensure a strong, inextricable and safe connection of the wires.

Source: https://amperof.ru/sovety-elektrika/pripayat-provod-bez-payalnika.html

Repairing headphones with bare hands, without a soldering iron! | Geek

How to solder a broken wire

Not everyone has a soldering iron these days. But almost everyone has headphones, and even more than one. And as everyone knows, any headphones tend to die and, as always, at the most inopportune moment. So today we will get out and you will learn how to fix headphones without a soldering iron. The only tools you need are a knife, a lighter and tape. :)

Of course, such a repair can hardly be called ideal. But it is ideal, for example, if you have a long train ride ahead of you, and your headphones suddenly died in the most vile way.

How to fix headphones without a soldering iron

Unfortunately, you won’t be able to solder the headphones without a soldering iron . Of course, if you wish, you can solder with a hot nail. But to do this you already need to know how to solder. So we'll forget about soldering.

We will need an AUX cable . AUX cable is now sold in any stall or passage for absolutely ridiculous money. It is used to connect your audio device to a subwoofer or car radio and looks like this:

The AUX cable costs a pretty penny, but it doesn't have a microphone. Therefore, if you have a headset, you will have to come to terms with its reduced powers and the deprivation of a microphone and buttons.

But how nice it is to repair headphones with your own hands without a soldering iron, and you can survive the lack of buttons.

Thanks to the Chinese brothers, now there are quite tolerable laces starting from $0.5. The wire used in the article cost about a dollar. Well, I think every house has a paper knife, a lighter and some scotch tape lying around in closets.

So we scraped the bottom of the barrel, found all the tools, took them to the stall for beer with a string, what next?

Unceremoniously cutting the AUX cable

We cut the wire 5-7 centimeters from the connector, or better yet, even further. There is no point in cutting it shorter. If you screw it up, there will be no reserve left for a second maneuver. It is also better when the connection point is located away from the connector.

Remove the cable braid

Especially for this article, the dullest knife was found in order to experience all the difficulties for yourself. :)

It is most convenient to cut the braid exactly as in the photo. You don't need to press the blade too hard. Thanks to bending, the braid will diverge on its own, regardless of its shape. We turn the wire, making cuts and, when we have gone through the circle, we tighten the braid. The main thing is not to cut through the wiring.

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It is better to expose about 2 centimeters of the wiring, this will make it easier for us and the contact area will be larger, which will increase the reliability of the contact.

The wiring is varnished and needs to be cleaned off. You can do this with a knife. But if your knife, like mine, is dull, then the result will not be very pleasing.

The wires are very thin and the dullness of the knife leads to them being torn off along with the varnish. In principle, this can be done quite easily with a sharp knife. But we don’t have a sharp knife, so we’ll use a lighter or any other source of fire.

Cleaning off the varnish with a lighter

The headphone wires are intertwined with nylon thread. And nylon, as you know, burns well. It is possible, by the way, that the varnish also burns.

For a split second we bring the end of the wire into the fire. It quickly flares up and lights up slightly. When 1-1.5 centimeters have burned, extinguish it with your fingers.

Varnish and nylon leave a small residue, which can be easily removed with a fingernail. As a result, we have undamaged wiring cleared of varnish.

The main thing is not to keep the wires on fire for too long - they can simply burn and fall off ((Some may find the option with a knife more convenient.

Cut off the headphone jack

Usually, headphone wires break right at the exit from the connector. To be sure to cut off the broken part, cut it 2-3 or 5 cm above the connector. It is possible even higher - it’s up to your taste.

The connector itself is of no value to us, so it goes in the trash.

Lots of wires

After cutting off the headphone jack, remove the insulation from the wire. We do everything the same as with the AUX cable. But there is a small catch.

There are clearly more wires in the headset than three - there are five of them. Two wires are for the microphone, and three for the headphones. That's what we need.

A frayed gold wire (ground) was wound over a thin white wire - a microphone one. We twist it into a separate wire and clean all the wiring from the varnish.

Now we are faced with the impossible task of twisting the necessary wires together. It's really simple! Three AUX wires need to be screwed to three headphone wires.

In my case, it turned out that the colors of the wires matched. What if not?

How to determine the purpose of headphone wires

This issue is discussed in more detail in the article Repairing a headset jack or five wires for four contacts

To put it simply, you can use this simplest method:

We plug our connector into any audio device lying at hand. Turn on the music and now we will twist the wires while working.

Most common color

  • earth (common) – yellow (gold)
  • left - blue (green)
  • right - red

In fact, the common wire is neither yellow nor gold, it is the color of pure copper coated with a clear varnish. But to be clear, let’s call it yellow.

Like any rule, this one also has exceptions, especially when it comes to headsets. For example, it happens that the right one is green, the left one is blue, and the red one is a microphone. Sometimes the wires are not completely the same color, but have a colored stripe in combination with yellow .

But pure YELLOW always EARTH . Mixtures of colors with yellow, in most cases also earth, but you need to check.

The yellow one goes to both headphones, so it is common; current flows through it, as it were, from each speaker, and through the other two colored wires, current flows into the speakers. Well this is sooooo rude :-)

Therefore, the first thing we do is twist the yellow wires of the headphones and the AUX cable together.

Now we alternately twist the headphone wires with the AUX cable wires. The bottom line is that the red wire of the AUX cable connector needs to be twisted with the red wire of the headphones and then the right earphone will start singing.

In order to ensure maximum contact, it is better to first loosen (unwind) the two wires being twisted, place one on top of the other, and then twist tightly.

In your case, the colors may differ and it may be that red needs to be combined with blue or in some other way. The main thing is yellow with yellow, and screw the rest so that both headphones play.

Have you determined? Great! Now the wiring that remains unclaimed can simply be cut off.

So, the wires are twisted, the headphones are singing - there’s a smile on your face)

We isolate the wiring

We removed the varnish from the wires, which means now they have no insulation.

If you close the twists together, you will either make yourself a mono or cut off one channel. Therefore, they need to be isolated to prevent short circuits between themselves.

First, we isolate each twist separately. In addition to the insulation itself, this will also strengthen the connections. For some reason I did this with masking tape, probably lying closer. It doesn't matter.

Now let's wrap everything together with wide tape, 3-4 or 5 layers - a matter of taste)

It is better to space the twisting points further away from each other in order to eliminate any short circuit as much as possible.

READY!

This is the long-awaited result of all our efforts. :-)

It may have looked like a long time, but it’s not at all! The whole process will take 10 minutes. The main thing is to understand what you are doing.

If you were too lazy to read a lot of letters, then especially for this article I made a short video that shows the entire repair process. Enjoy watching))



Please spend an extra minute to like/dislike or comment - it will be a huge help to my project

Thermal tube instead of tape

Using tape is not entirely kosher. Therefore, I propose to improve the technology a little, again without a soldering iron.

You will have to buy a heat-shrinkable tube, also known as thermal casing, at an electronics store or hardware store. This is such a clever tube that can shrink in diameter by at least half when heated. This miracle costs about $0.1 - $0.5 per meter.

We will need two thermal tubes with different diameters: 1-2 mm for the first and 4-5 mm for the second.

We put pieces of thin thermal tube on our twists. We cut the pieces with one and a half margin.

Now you need to heat the thermo tube. Usually I did this with a soldering iron, but we agreed that I didn’t have one, and the story was about how to fix headphones without a soldering iron, so I had to get out.

The method turned out to be quite effective and the thermo-tubes shrank. You can also use any other heater or put them in boiling water like Easter eggs. In principle, people can do it with a regular hairdryer.

While the thermotube is still hot, you can further flatten it with your fingers, then it will slightly stick together inside.

But you need to remember to put a thick thermo-tube on the cable before you twist the wires. It won't fit through the connector anymore.

This thermo-tube must subsequently be put on the joint and also compressed with the heat of the lamp. In general, you can squeeze lighters on fire, but you can accidentally set fire to excess.

I used a piece 8-10 cm long. To strengthen the structure, the end of the thermal tube was put directly on the elastic band of the connector.

Conclusion

As you can see, this is not at all difficult as it seems. Now you know how to fix headphones without a soldering iron. Such a repair cannot be called complete; it is rather an alternative for emergencies.

Of course, it is possible that your headphones will work for a long, long time after such repairs. But in any case, it will be safer to solder twisted headphone wires. This is not at all difficult to do. Read how: How to easily learn soldering using headphones as an example

The material was prepared exclusively for the website AudioGeek.ru

Source: https://audiogeek.ru/remont-naushnikov-bez-payalnika/

How to solder a torn cable

The need to restore a damaged loop consisting of several wires or tracks most often arises in cases where a device or gadget has been damaged for one reason or another. This may occur due to moisture getting inside the device or contact failure due to careless handling of existing connections.

The situation is aggravated by the fact that it is not always possible to completely replace the flexible tape of wires (unless you contact a specialized workshop with a request to find spare parts suitable for the gadget). It is for this reason that you may need to independently solder the matrix cable of a phone, laptop, TV or other device.

Grounds for restoration

Repairing (restoring) broken connections makes sense only when it is impossible to find a replacement for the damaged ribbon or individual contact assemblies. Soldering a flexible cable is also advisable in cases where only a small part of the conductors could be torn, which, if desired, can be soldered with a miniature soldering iron.

If you do not have special tools and soldering experience, it is best to contact a repair shop. Otherwise, you can completely ruin the train.

To repair a laptop, for example, you will have to pay a significant amount (about 400-600 rubles), but you can be absolutely sure of the quality of the new connection. But even in this case, it is possible to find ways to save on eliminating any malfunction. To do this, in particular, you can turn to a friend for help who can solder the torn wire.

DIY repair

Before deciding whether it is possible to solder the cable yourself, it is important to consider the following factors:

  • the degree of its damage;
  • difficulty in disassembling the gadget (phone);
  • the urgency of the upcoming work.

So, if only one button on a mobile device does not work, you may not need to solder the entire cable. In this case, it will be enough to re-solder the liner to only one contact.

Tools and materials

To independently solder a damaged cable, you will need to prepare consumables and tools:

  • flux alcohol solution;
  • easy-to-use tweezers;
  • rosin and low-melting solder;
  • wire with a diameter of 0.15 mm with varnish coating;
  • a piece of insulator plate (polyamide or Kapton);
  • a miniature soldering iron of 10-15 watts, a scalpel and a bracket with a microscope (or magnifying glass).

In addition, the work will require a soft brush, adhesive tape and side cutters. The home craftsman always has most of the materials, so you don’t even have to buy them.

Recovery procedure

Before soldering the cable to the display, for example, you should fix the area to be restored on the insulating plate. The easiest way to do this is to use double-sided adhesive tape.

The fastening ensures mechanical rigidity during soldering and will provide additional strength to the solder joint in the future.

After this, you need to place the area with the broken cable under the screen with the microscope lens and, using a well-sharpened scalpel, clean the contact area from the insulation layer (approximately 1-1.5 mm from the break). Then, using a brush, apply a thin layer of the previously prepared rosin solution to the cleaned contact.

After thoroughly warming up the soldering iron, use its tip with a small amount of solder to touch the areas prepared for soldering. If there is excess solder, they are removed, since otherwise it will be possible to bridge adjacent tracks with them. Following this, a piece of conductor is taken with a conductor freed from varnish and well-tinned, which is then applied to one of the ends of the cable.

In conclusion, having measured the length of the core according to the size of the contact and biting off its remains with side cutters, it will be possible to solder the second end to the mating part of the restored section.

Loop extension

In the case where a break is detected between the moving parts (at the place of permanent bending of the cable), it will need to be extended.

Source: https://moreremonta.info/strojka/kak-spajat-porvannyj-shlejf/

How to connect broken headphone wires

Let's look at various ways to connect headphone wires . There are plenty of options for fixing broken wires or plugs using a soldering iron. But doing this without a soldering iron is more difficult =) We looked at options for fixing the wire without a soldering iron and with it.

  1. Connect the headphone wires (general instructions);
  2. How to fix a headphone wire without a soldering iron;
  3. How to solder connected headphone wires with a soldering iron;
  4. How to connect the plug to headphones;

1. How to connect headphone wires (repair broken ones) - instructions

  1. Locate the wire break in the cable. You can read more about how to do this here.

Determining the cause of the breakdown

Cut the cable where the wire breaks

Removing the braided cables

Cleaning off the protective varnish

Alternatively, you can burn the wires with a lighter.

Cleaning off the protective varnish

If you are going to solder wires, you need to tin them. How to do this is described in detail in the video below. If you are not going to solder them, then skip this step.

Connect the wires.
To do this, they can be tightly twisted, as shown in the figure (if you are not going to solder them), or linearly connected, superimposed on each other (in the case of soldering with a soldering iron or its alternative):

Wires in headphones

Note: to ensure maximum contact, first loosen the twisted wires a little, and only then twist them tightly. This is better than first twisting each wire separately and then twisting them all together.

  • Then either use a soldering iron and solder the wires together , as in the video below, or use one of the methods for repairing wires without a soldering iron , described below.
  • Move the heat shrink tubing (if you have it) to the soldering area, then heat it with a hairdryer or lighter until it fits the size of the wire.

    Warming up the heat shrink tube

    2. How to connect broken headphone wires without a soldering iron

    To fix headphones without a soldering iron, wire or plug, there are 3 ways:

    1. Make a homemade soldering iron and solder wires with it just like with a regular soldering iron.
    2. Solder wires without a soldering iron using solder paste or solder.
    3. Just twist the wires well, insulate them and wrap them with tape/insulating tape, or use heat shrink tubing if you have one on hand.

    Method 1. How to make a soldering iron with your own hands and solder wires with it

    Option 1.

    Option 2. Or also “How to solder without a soldering iron.”

    Option 3. The simplest one, if you have absolutely nothing at hand.

    There are also many other ways to build a soldering iron with your own hands if you urgently need one and don’t have one. We have only given here the most interesting examples.

    Method 2. Solder without a soldering iron using solder - instructions + video:

    Step 1. Tin the wires without a soldering iron.

    We will need:

    • A small metal container, such as the lid of a can of instant coffee.
    • Solder.
    • Rosin.
    • Stove, candle or lighter.


    After everything is prepared:

    1. Place pieces of solder and rosin in the lid.
    2. Heat the container until the solder melts (on any open flame source).
    3. Place the entire piece of wire in the melted rosin.
    4. After that, place it in the molten solder for 2-3 seconds.
    5. Then we remove the wire with a quick movement of the hand and use a rag to remove excess solder. Only a thin, even layer of solder should remain.

    Step 2. Solder the wires without a soldering iron using solder.

    1. The tinned ends of the wire are twisted together.
    2. Warm up the place where the wires are soldered until the solder begins to melt.

    Method 3. Connecting wires without a soldering iron

    How to connect wires without a soldering iron

    To do this, we follow all the steps from the general instructions until the last 10th step (in the 9th step we naturally choose the option without any soldering iron).

    After you have properly twisted the wires, they need to be insulated. This can be done in two ways:

      The simplest and almost always at hand is using masking tape.

    Insulate the wires using masking tape

    We insulate the wires using cambric

    Insulate the wires using masking tape

    In the case of cambric, we put pieces of the tube on our wires, as well as on the cable itself (it’s better to put it on the cable before removing the braid from the wires), after which we warm up the tube either under a light bulb, as in Fig. lower, either with a hair dryer or a lighter, until it fits the shape of the wire.

    Warming up the heat shrink tube

    Warming up the heat shrink tube

    After this, we tighten the heat shrink on the cable to the junction of the wires and also “shrink” it to the size of the cable using any of the methods described above.

    This completes the repair of our wires.

    Headphones after repair

    3. How to solder connected headphone wires with a soldering iron

    How to solder wires

    You can learn more about how to properly tin and solder wires, as well as how to use a soldering iron correctly, from the video below.

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    In short:

    1. Take a heated soldering iron and the end of the wire, which has been cleared of varnish.
    2. Dip the end of the wire into rosin or drip flux onto it.
    3. Apply the soldering iron tip to the solder, then apply it to the wire in rosin.
    4. After this, attach a little solder to the tip of the soldering iron and run it along the wire; the solder should remain in a thin layer on the wire. If this does not happen, repeat steps 2-3.

    Health and good mood to everyone! Here I have collected pinout diagrams and instructions on how to solder a plug to headphones of all types known to me. I provide instructions on how to repair headphones with your own hands and how to connect the wires without an electric soldering iron. It will be interesting.

    I'll start by listing the known types of audio plugs.

    Standard plugs

    According to Wikipedia, there are the following types of jacks:

    • TS/TRS 6.3mm diameter (for microphones, electric guitars, mixing consoles, old professional headphones, etc.)
    • TS/ TRS / TRRS with a diameter of 3.5 mm (the most common, used for modern headphones, microphones, acoustics, flashes, etc.)
    • TS/TRS/TRRS with a diameter of 2.5 mm (for mobile phone headsets, webcams, flashes, etc.)

    There is also a type of TRRRS connector, which is used to transmit not only audio, but also video signals.

    By the way, this designation is adopted according to the principle: T - Trip (latch), R- Ring (ring), S - Sleeve (sleeve).

    Source: https://crast.ru/instrumenty/kak-soedinit-porvannye-provoda-naushnikov

    How to solder headphones

    › Instructions

    29.06.2019

    A couple of weeks ago the wire on my headphones broke. I decided to repair and solder them myself, especially since it is very easy to do. The two most likely ways of damage and detailed instructions for soldering them are described below. At the end of the article, I told you three ways that can replace a soldering iron if you don’t have one.

    Solder the wire to the plug

    In almost all cases, a common malfunction of accessories is the cable breaking in the plug area. Most often, nothing else can be done other than replacing the connector and soldering it. But don’t think that this procedure is quite difficult and you can’t do it. Almost anyone can do it. The main thing is to understand the wires, of which there may be several, and each one needs to be soldered in its designated place.

    General principles

    If you have problems with the plug, it is best to replace it with a new one, but you can try to make an old one. How to solder headphones with a plug - see further instructions.

    1. Step back a little from the damaged area and cut off the plug completely.
      See below if you want to solder the old plug.
    2. Take a utility knife and cut open the old plug along the seam to remove the rubberized surface.
      You will get its inside, where there will be contacts with remnants of wires on the plastic surface. Remember the position of the cables or take a photo/write down so you don't forget, because you will be soldering them in the same way. They are usually arranged by color.
    3. Lightly strip the wires so that they look smooth, intact, and make soldering easier.
      Connect two common colorless cables by twisting them together.
    4. Tin the ends of the cables.
      To make this process easy, you can lightly burn them with a lighter or matches, or remove the enamel coating with a knife. After this, you can easily tin them, and the soldering process will be easier.
    5. If you can’t buy a plug or don’t want to go out and buy one, a regular pen will help you.
      Unscrew the very tip (the small ones, where the side of the rod you write with is located), this will be your plug body, which you will solder to the connector.
    6. Cut the desired piece of heat shrink.
      You can choose the dimensions yourself to match the body of your plug. This part will protect the place where you solder the plug and where it connects to the cable from new tears.
    7. Now let's move on to soldering.
      Determine the required locations for the ends of the wires in accordance with how they were originally sealed.
    8. Make sure the accessory is ready to play.
      A multimeter will help here. Listen to each ear in turn. You should listen to rustling noises and various sounds. You can try inserting the plug into the phone and turning on music. But do it carefully.
    9. After you are sure that the device is working correctly, secure the heat shrink (with a hairdryer, matches, lighter - any device you have at hand).

    What to do if the phone does not recognize the headphones

    Wire connection diagram

    The wires are connected by color, since each cable is responsible for a separate channel. But accessories may have several wires, and in this case, soldering the headphones takes place differently. Let's look at each type separately.

    3 wires

    There are usually two cables coming from each ear: one positive, one negative. In some cases, manufacturers connect the negatives of different ears, so the result is only three wires.

    If you place the plug in such a way that the longest plate (which is responsible for the common contact) is on the right, then the remaining two cables are soldered in order:

    • the top one is red, responsible for the right contact;
    • the bottom one is green/blue/white and is responsible for the left contact.

    There are no specific instructions regarding the color of the contacts; they vary.

    4 wires

    If you have four cables, there may be several options for how to solder them together.

    The first is typical for devices without a microphone. There are 3 contacts here, and then four cables are two pairs from each ear.

    Two of these cables will be copper in color, the rest are more commonly red (right channel) and green/blue (left channel) colors.

    To solder such headphones to a plug, you need to combine two wires of the same color from different ears and solder them to a metal plate, the longest one, which is responsible for the common channel. The remaining two cables need to be soldered in the same way as in the case of three cables (the top plate is the right contact, the bottom plate is the left one, provided that the common one is on the right).

    The second option is when you have a headset (there is a microphone). To distinguish the wires, it is enough to remember that the red wire is the right channel, the copper wire is common. The cable responsible for the microphone hides two wires: a thin one in white insulation, which is wound into another cable. Upon closer inspection you will notice this. In this way, it is easier to find the left contact, and you will not get tangled in the wires and will be able to solder correctly.

    There are 4 plates on the plug of such gadgets: one to which the common channel is soldered, and three others. If you place the longest plate on the right side, the arrangement will be as follows:

    • bottom plate - left channel;
    • top - microphone;
    • left - right channel.

    5 wires

    It is much more difficult to work with 5 or more cables. To understand how to solder headphone wires to a plug, you need to look at all the wires individually with a multimeter. This way you can understand which cable is responsible for the right and which for the left ear. The rest will relate to the microphone.

    Connect the wires of the same (usually copper) color together and solder everything to the same long plate responsible for the common channel. Connect the rest according to the principle that was described in the part with 4 cables. Then connect your headphones to your phone and play some music to make sure the placement is correct.

    Solder the wire to the speaker

    There are times when wires break inside the speaker. Then you need to disassemble the ear housing and solder the wires directly inside. To avoid damaging parts, work carefully and do not shake or pull. Otherwise, you risk tearing off the board. To solder parts inside the speaker, follow the instructions:

    1. Inspect the inside of the earphone and look for damage.
    2. If there are broken cables, they will need to be soldered together.
    3. If the cable breaks directly at the entrance to the headphone and you cannot get it out, make a cut in this place. At a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the adapter, cut the cord.
    4. Remove the thick insulating layer approximately 8 cm from the end of the cut cable. Repeat this procedure with the inner layer of insulation, but do not touch the wires themselves.
    5. Clean and tin cable ends.
    6. Insert the cord into the back of the case and make knots from the wire approximately at the beginning of the thick insulating layer.
    7. Now let's move on to the soldering process. You will have to unsolder the old pieces of wires one by one and solder new ones in their place one by one, so as not to mix them up.
    8. Check your headphones.

    But know that if the wires are damaged in this place, the problem may not be with the speakers. Therefore, if you cannot fix the headphones, first make sure that you did everything correctly, and then look for damage in other places (for example, inside the case with the microphone).

    Headphone wire colors

    Typically, manufacturers use the already familiar system for organizing colors on cables. They are located like this:

    • red - right channel;
    • green - left channel;
    • two copper ones - the ground of both channels.

    Sometimes blue, white or other colors are used together with green on the left channel. However, red always remains on the right channel cable.

    But some manufacturers (for example, Apple) have a two-tone coating. A multimeter or a three-volt battery will help you figure out the channels.

    The moment you apply voltage to a device or battery, clicks, rustling sounds and other sounds will be heard in your ears.

    How to fix a wire: chewed, torn, broken, broken

    One of the most common breakdowns of electrical appliances is a broken wire for one reason or another. Anyone who has encountered a similar problem has a question about how to fix the wire themselves without the help of specialists. There are two main ways to repair any cord: twisting or soldering.

    Main causes of breakage

    If the wires are broken near the plug, it must be replaced.

    What can cause a breakage:

    • careless user actions that led to mechanical damage;
    • frequent deformation and bending during operation of the device - for example, the cord on headphones in the area where the plug is connected;
    • damage from pets or rodents.

    If you find a broken wire, the electrical appliance connected to it must be immediately disconnected from the network or the connected device.

    Twist

    It is better not to use twisting in flexible wires

    In this case, you will need a minimum of tools:

    • side cutters;
    • knife;
    • insulating tape or heat shrink tubing.

    You need to do the following:

    1. Strip the cord from the polyethylene insulation so that the metal parts of the required length for twisting them together are visible.
    2. If you need to connect the wiring from the headphones, you must also get rid of the varnish coating, which will not allow contact to take place. To do this, you can carefully clean them with a sharp knife or fine sandpaper.
    3. Twist the stripped ends of the broken wires together by at least 4–5 tight turns, observing their color markings. After this, use side cutters to remove the frayed ends of the conductors so that the twisting is neat.
    4. Insulate each wire where it is twisted with electrical tape.

    You can also use a special heat shrink tube, which should be placed over the twisted wires and heated over an open flame or other heat source so that it tightly grips the twisted area.

    Soldering

    When soldering wires, experience and dexterity are required.

    This is a more reliable method that will ensure good contact at the rupture site and resistance to mechanical stress.

    To perform soldering you will need:

    • soldering iron;
    • tin;
    • rosin or other type of flux;
    • insulating tape or heat shrink;
    • side cutters;
    • knife.

    You need to do the following:

    1. Strip the ends of the polyethylene and varnish insulation.
    2. Twist the broken conductors according to the color marking into 4–5 turns.
    3. Using flux, solder the twists so that the tin spreads evenly at the junctions of the wires. A sign of good soldering is the characteristic shine of the solder on the connected conductors, but its matte tint may indicate that the soldering iron was too overheated or, on the contrary, the soldering temperature was insufficient.
    4. Insulate the soldering areas with insulating tape or heat shrink.

    If you compare both methods of repairing a wire, soldering is significantly more reliable than twisting. However, working with a soldering iron requires experience and accuracy, so it is best done by a professional. Twisting is much easier, but this method is short-lived, because the wire can again be broken and damaged.

    Source: https://elektro.guru/kabel-i-provoda/kak-pochinit-provod.html

    Connecting broken wires in the wall

    What to do if you interrupt the electrical wiring in the wall? Usually in such a situation a person gets lost, but nothing bad happened; the electrical wiring can be successfully repaired with your own hands using one of the methods below.

    When drilling into walls to fasten objects, rarely does anyone think about the fact that electrical wiring is laid in the walls. But even if you remember and mentally trace the possible path of the wires from the junction box to the sockets and switches, there is still no guarantee against the drill getting into the wire.

    Electrical wiring is especially often damaged when installing suspended and suspended ceilings. The corners or baguettes holding the ceiling are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws and their fastening line runs exactly at the level of the wires.

    According to the requirements of the Electrical Installation Rules (ELR), twisting wires when installing electrical wiring is prohibited. When connecting conductors of hidden wiring in the wall, this rule must absolutely not be violated!

    It is best to replace the entire section of broken wire from the junction box to its connection point, but this is not always acceptable.

    Since the broken conductors are short, the connection can be made using terminal blocks. But in this case, you will have to install a distribution box for the terminal block, which is labor-intensive and not always convenient.

    The proposed technology for connecting broken wires in a wall under plaster has been tested in practice and has shown high reliability. In my apartment for more than 16 years there has been hidden electrical wiring with several similar connections; two pairs of conductors had to be connected when moving the meter, one pair was connected in two places when moving a wall, and two pairs when moving electrical outlets.

    When repairing electrical wiring, it is imperative to de-energize it!

    Repairs should begin with very careful removal of the plaster in the area of ​​damaged wires. This work is done with a chisel and hammer. As a chisel when laying electrical wiring in the wall, I usually use the rod from a broken screwdriver with a sharpened end of the blade.

    This chisel is good for making small grooves in the wall when laying hidden wiring, for example when moving an outlet, or installing an additional one.

    When the wires of the hidden wiring are exposed, it will become clear whether one wire, two or three are broken. What metal are electrical conductors made of, copper or aluminum?

    Connecting broken copper wires

    Connecting a broken copper wire in a wall by soldering ensures reliable contact of the wires no worse than an undamaged one and allows you to close the connection with plaster without installing a junction box.

    One of the two copper wires is broken

    An autopsy showed that one copper conductor was broken, the second wire was not touched and the insulation around it was not damaged.

    To repair, you first need to remove the plaster to the sides of the damaged area 3-5 centimeters to a depth of a centimeter under the damaged area of ​​the wire. This is necessary to create conditions for connecting the wires. Next, you need to disconnect the wires and cut the insulation along the center.

    10-15 mm of insulation is removed from the damaged ends of the conductors. If the electrical wiring was made a long time ago, then its insulation becomes very hard and it is difficult to remove it with a knife in cramped conditions without damaging the wire. In this case, it is better to remove the insulation by reflow.

    The ends of the copper conductors are coated with a layer of solder using a soldering iron. The conductors must be tinned carefully and on all sides. An insulating tube slightly longer than the bare wires is placed on one of the conductors.

    Take a piece of copper wire with a cross-section no less than the cross-section of the broken wire. This piece of wire is also covered with a layer of solder. The length of this insert must ensure an overlap of at least 10 mm over the connected ends of the wires.

    The insert is soldered to the connecting ends. Solder should not be skimped. Next, the insulating tube is moved so as to completely cover the joint. If a sealed, moisture-resistant connection is required, then before putting on the tube, the soldered joint must be generously coated with silicone.

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    If silicone was not used, then to eliminate the possibility of displacement of the insulating tube and to ensure greater tightness of the joint, one layer of insulating tape should be wound. Since a large roll of tape cannot be threaded behind the wires, and a strip of electrical tape from the roll will stick together during insulation, it is better to unwind the required length from the roll and wrap it around any rod, such as a match.

    As a result of the work done, a connection was obtained from the broken wire of the hidden electrical wiring, whose technical characteristics are practically not inferior to the neighboring surviving conductor.

    Such a connection can be safely covered with plaster and forever forget about the trouble that happened.

    If both wires of the hidden electrical wiring are broken at once, then each of the conductors can be connected using the technology described above. But to achieve maximum quality, it is better to splice them in a slightly different way. One of the broken conductors is spliced ​​as described above, and for the second, the insert is made from a wire on which the insulation is partially left.

    With this connection method, direct contact of adjacent wires under the most unfavorable circumstances is completely eliminated.

    First, one end of the conductor is spliced ​​by soldering, then the other. All that remains is to put on the insulating tubes. Please note that in order to reduce the risk of exposing the wire in the wall, the lower insulating tube is made of two pieces, which are put on the right and left wires before soldering.

    Before putting on the tubes, in order to obtain a sealed, moisture-protected connection of the hidden electrical wiring, the soldering area must be generously lubricated with silicone.

    All that remains is to screw a layer of insulating tape onto the restored connection.

    Three out of three copper wires are broken

    Three broken electrical wires are connected using the same technology as two. You can place a long jumper with insulation one in the middle, and connect the outer conductors with a short one. But then installation will be more difficult.

    After soldering, silicone is applied to the unprotected sections of the wires and insulating tubes are put on. The resulting connection is then wrapped with insulating tape.

    You can see how I built up electrical wiring in a wall using double copper wire when moving an outlet from one place on the wall to another.

    A legitimate question arises: how to heat a soldering iron for soldering if there is no voltage in the electrical wiring? If the electrical wiring in the apartment is double-circuit, then you can connect the soldering iron to an outlet in another room through an extension cord. You can power the soldering iron from the distribution panel in the entrance, or connect the carrier from your neighbor. As a last resort, you can use a mobile soldering iron, which is described in the site article of the same name.

    Connecting broken aluminum wires of hidden electrical wiring

    It is almost impossible to reliably connect broken aluminum wires by soldering with a soldering iron and low-temperature solder. The only option left is the mechanical method.

    One of the two aluminum wires is broken

    After opening the wire of the hidden electrical wiring, one broken aluminum wire was discovered.

    First you need to remove the insulation from the ends of the wires to a length of about 15 mm. This length of bare ends of the wire is needed in order to make rings with an internal diameter of 4 mm.

    An aluminum insert is prepared from a wire with a cross-section equal to or greater than the cross-section of the electrical wiring. The insert can also be made from copper wire, but then it is necessary to follow the rules for connecting aluminum and copper conductors.

    Next, the ends of the wires are twisted into rings using pliers.

    A prerequisite for obtaining a reliable mechanical connection of aluminum wires is the use of a Grover-type washer. The connection is assembled as follows. A groover is put on the M4 screw, then an ordinary flat washer, rings of connected wires, then a simple washer and a nut.

    The screw is screwed into the nut with the maximum possible hand force. All that remains is to cover the connection with electrical tape.

    To protect against mechanical damage, the resulting connection should be covered with an insulating tube. You can wrap the top again with one layer of electrical tape.

    Using the technology described above, several broken aluminum wires are also connected. You just need more screws and jumpers.

    Based on personal experience, I dare to say that connecting aluminum conductors of hidden electrical wiring using the technology described above will ensure its trouble-free operation until the end of its service life, provided that the load current does not exceed the permissible one.

    Source: https://YDoma.info/ehlektrotekhnika/vybor-podgotovka-montazh-provoda/electricity-soedinenie-perebityh-provodov.html

    How to properly solder wires to a headphone plug?

    All mechanisms break sooner or later, and it’s good if the wire from the headphones breaks far from the jack (plug). But what if the plug comes off, but the wire is intact? Completely change the headset? What if the headphones are expensive? There is an exit! After reading the article, the reader will learn how to independently repair headphones in any condition, and it does not matter whether he knows how to solder or not.

    Why do headphones break?

    The reason is “factory settings”. Each model is designed for a specific service life. Good headphones are not the ones that don't break, they're the ones that people buy all the time. Therefore, if your favorite couple breaks down, don't blame yourself. These are all the tricks of greedy manufacturers and monster engineers who profit from unhappy customers.

    Expensive headphones last longer, but they also break. Their price is determined not only by quality. Premium technology costs what consumers are willing to pay for it.

    What does the sound in headphones consist of?

    Many cores are channels, each of which outputs the content of a specific frequency band to the master bus in the speaker (the one that is inserted into the ear). Thus, it is clear that damage to at least one of these veins completely eliminates the frequency range for which it is responsible. Why can't you hear this?

    Source: https://odinelectric.ru/wiring/wires/kak-pripayat-provoda-k-shtekeru-naushnikov

    Determining the location of the rupture

    If the speaker makes a crackling sound or is silent, then we can say with 99% confidence that the wire has broken. You shouldn't bother with cheap Chinese headphones. It's easier to throw them away. An expensive headset is worth trying to repair. There are two ways to find a cliff.

    Recommendations: How to protect headphones from mechanical damage and strengthen the wire, How to solder a headphone plug, How to repair headphones yourself if one stops working

    Simple search by palpation

    The first search method is based on feeling the cable with your fingers. The headset is connected to a mobile phone and a music file is played. The wire along its entire length, starting from the plug and ending with the input to the headphones, is kneaded with your fingers.

    When a non-functioning speaker produces a crackling or intermittent sound, the section of wire being diagnosed is marked for repair. The search method will give results if the broken wires are not far apart from each other inside the insulation.

    Search with a multimeter

    The second method is justified when a search by probing does not produce results. If the cable gets caught while walking, a jerk occurs. The copper core bursts and the insulation stretches. Probing won't help here. The ends of the cores are far from each other and will not come closer when the cable is kneaded.

    The search for a break is performed with a multimeter:

    • To test the cable with a multimeter, you will have to peel off the insulation in places. The method is aggressive, but there is no other way out. It is advisable to try to disassemble the earphone in order to first ring the entire cable from the speaker contacts to the metal part of the plug. If there is a signal on the multimeter, then the reason is in the dynamics and there is no need to cut the wire.
    • If there is no signal or if it is impossible to disassemble the earphone, an incision is made into the insulation. A broken wire most often occurs near a plug, speaker, or at a split in the wire. To check the plug, remove 5 mm of cable insulation at a distance of 5 cm from the earphone. You must clean it carefully, otherwise the thin wire will be damaged. One multimeter probe is placed against the plug contact, and the other probe is placed on the cleaned area. The appearance of a signal indicates that the input section of the headphone has failed.
    • The absence of a signal on the multimeter indicates damage to another area. The next insulation cut is made at a distance of 5 cm from the plug. Carry out a new measurement. A signal appeared - the wire broke near the plug. There is no signal - the search process continues.

    Insulation cuts are made every 5–10 cm until the problem area is found. After repair, the exposed wire is insulated. It looks unsightly, but the headset will work.

    Connecting wires using a soldering iron: instructions with step-by-step photos

    A gap has been found and must be repaired. The most effective way to connect wires is soldering. It can be considered lucky if only one core breaks and this section is accurately detected. The wires are soldered together without cutting the entire cable. Serious damage is eliminated by cutting off the problem area, soldering the wires and applying a bandage.

    The step-by-step soldering process looks like this:

    Use pliers or a knife to cut off the damaged area. At one end of the cable, 2–3 cm of braiding is peeled off to free the cores. The number of wires depends on the headphone model. A headset with a microphone has 4–5 wires. Simple headphones are connected with 3–4 wires.

    Don't be afraid. The wires are covered with multi-colored insulation, so it is impossible to mix them up when soldering. There are two twisted wires going to the microphone: signal and ground. They are immediately visible under the braid. The ground conductor usually has yellow insulation.

    A similar procedure is performed with the second end of the cable. When all the cores are freed from the braid, insulation 5 mm long is removed from their ends. You will see a strand of thin copper hairs that are twisted clockwise with your fingers.

    The contacts are briefly burned with a lighter. The fire will remove the protective varnish from the veins. The firing process is required. Varnish not only interferes with soldering, but is also a dielectric. If the protective layer is not removed, good solder will set, but the contact between the connected wires will be poor.

    All ends of the cores must first be tinned with tin. A piece of thick heat-shrinkable tubing is placed over the cable braid. This will be the insulation of the bandage. Pieces of thin heat-shrinkable tube are similarly placed on each core. This will be contact insulation.

    The ends of the tinned wires are twisted, matching the color of the insulation. Each twist is heated with a soldering iron until the tin completely surrounds the connection of the wires.

    After soldering is completed, the functionality of the headphones is checked. If sound appears in the speakers, proceed to applying the bandage. First, thin heat-shrinkable tubes are placed over the twists and heated with a lighter. The insulation will protect the soldering of the cores from short circuiting. The resulting wiring harness is tied with a harsh thread, a thick heat-shrinkable tube is pulled over the cable braid and heated with fire.

    Connecting wires without a soldering iron

    Connect the headphone wires only by soldering, otherwise there will be no good contact. If you don’t have a soldering iron at hand, you will have to resort to alternative methods.

    Connecting cores with solder paste or solder

    The method will ensure reliable contact, since it is based on soldering, but the soldering iron is not involved in this process. To connect the wire you will need two tin cans, solder, rosin and an open flame.

    When the cable cores are stripped, proceed to primitive soldering:

    • Place tin in a tin can and rosin in another and heat over an open fire until melting begins. The procedure can be conveniently performed on a gas stove. When melting begins, the end of each core, stripped of insulation, is first immersed in rosin and then in tin.
    • After about 5 seconds, the copper wire will turn silver. The tinned ends of the wires are twisted, matching the color of the insulation. The twists are slightly heated with a lighter fire for soldering. You can simply immerse the connection in molten tin.

    After soldering all the wires, insulation and bandage are applied.

    Connecting wires with simple twists

    The method is bad, since it will not ensure normal contact, but in the absence of a soldering iron, temporarily connecting the wire by twisting will save the situation. The process is simple. The conductors are stripped of insulation and twisted with fingers into a tight bundle.

    Each twist is insulated with tape, electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. To prevent the wire from breaking, a bandage of thick thread is placed at the connection. For aesthetics, tape is wound on top or heat-shrinkable tubing is stretched.

    Of all the methods considered, only soldering the wire will ensure high-quality sound from the headphones. Twisting is a temporary salvation. They will have to be soldered, otherwise, after the copper wires oxidize, the sound in the speakers will disappear.

    Topic materials: 5 best Bluedio headphones, 5 best headphones under 1000 rubles, How to connect a microphone to a laptop, How to clean headphones, How to disassemble headphones: instructions with step-by-step photos of repairing all elements of the headset, No sound in headphones, Wiring out headphones, Do-it-yourself headphone repair , Making your own simple headphones and headsets with a microphone

    Connecting wires using a soldering iron: instructions with step-by-step photos

    Source: https://TopNaushniki.ru/sovety/kak-soedinit-porvannye-provoda-naushnikov

    How to fix a headphone wire near a plug: minijack repair workshop

    The headphone cable is the weak link, as it has a small cross-section, often bends and is subject to mechanical stress. This may cause sound to drop out from one or both speakers, become distorted, and be interrupted (stutter).

    Let's look at two different types of wire damage. In the first case, the cord remains intact externally, but the break occurs internally. The second option is simpler - you can observe damage to the outer sheath of the wire and know the location of the break.

    I'll show you a way to repair a headphone cable with your own hands. At the end of the article there are answers to the most popular questions on the topic.

    How to find a damaged area?

    It is almost impossible to visually find the location of a wire break inside the cable, since the outer insulation remains intact.

    But it is still possible to determine the approximate location of the fracture. To do this, connect the headphones to any sound source, for example, a mobile phone, and turn on the melody on it, bend the cable along its entire length.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKZBAqnGoZ4

    We look for the place of damage by bending the wire

    When bending in a problem area, the sound should change its character, and it should change when bending in different directions or stretching the cable. As practice shows, most often the wire breaks near the entrance to the plug - in this place it is more mobile. If this happens, and the wire is indeed damaged in the location indicated above, the problem can be solved by cutting off the damaged section and re-soldering the plug.

    How to repair a broken wire?

    So where should you start? Step back about 10 cm from the plug and cut the cable with a knife (a stationery knife is best).

    Cut the wire. You get two halves.

    Next, cut the insulation and prepare the ends on the good section of the cable for soldering.

    Strip the end There are 3 wires inside

    The next stage of work is the plug. There are two options for connecting it to a prepared cable:

    1. Buy a new, detachable plug and solder the wires to it.
    2. Use the old plug.

    It’s not always possible to find a new minijack, so let’s consider the second option. Take the plug and, using wire cutters, carefully, without damaging the core, remove the insulation from it.

    Use pliers to clean the jack insulation. Carefully. to avoid damaging the colored wires

    There shouldn't be any problems with this. It is advisable to remove the plastic sheath so that the wires remain at the very core of the plug and you can see their color.

    Pieces of colored wires will allow you to align the channels correctly. The ends are prepared.

    This will make it possible not to mix up the ends when soldering, since the colors of the wires in different models may differ. But most often they are standard: black is common, white is connected to the left channel, and red is connected to the right.

    The common one is always located closer to the beginning of the plug

    Prepare the cable, the length of each wire should be such that in a straight position it is exactly opposite its contact on the core of the plug.

    The length of exposed wires varies

    That is, the black wire should be the longest, the white wire should be of medium length, and the red wire should be the shortest. Excessive length of wires at the last stage of work will create problems. Once the wires are cut to length and the insulation has been stripped, tin them.

    Dip the ends in soldering acid

    Dip the stripped ends into flux and heat with a soldering iron. Place the wires on the plug and solder them.

    For additional protection, coat the solder with a new layer of protective varnish to prevent oxidation and minor damage.

    Before doing this, do not forget to put a piece of heat-shrink or vinyl chloride tubing of suitable internal diameter and length on the cable.

    When the wires are securely soldered, carefully, without unnecessary tension, slide the insulating tube along the entire length.

    The final stage is to check the connector in operation. To do this, connect the headphones to the “mini jack 3.5mm” jack of your mobile phone, and play some melody on it.

    Final result test

    If everything went well, you should hear loud, clear sound from both speakers, even if you bend the cable in different places.

    Source: https://zulkinoks.ru/audio-video/kak-pochinit-provod-ot-naushnikov.html

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