How to solder headphones to a plug: an easy way to change the mini-jack
It's no secret that the most common malfunction of any headphones (plugs, earbuds or large over-ear ones) is a broken wire near the plug. In this situation, there is nothing left to do except change the plug on the headphones. This is easy and can be done by anyone who has ever held a soldering iron in their hands. The only thing that would be desirable is to understand the intricacy of the wires (in some headphones there are as many as 6 wires under the cable insulation!)
Today we’ll talk about how to solder headphones to a plug without making any mistakes.
You don't need to think about anything, just follow the step-by-step instructions provided and you can easily repair your favorite headphones.
So, let's go!
1. Ruthlessly bite off the plug:
2. How to replace the plug on headphones? For this we will use the old connector.
Let's gut it using a sharp stationery knife, ripping it right along the seam. This method allows you to disassemble almost any plug: Open the plastic shell and take out the insides. Do you see a group of contacts with pieces of wire soldered to them?
We remember the pinout of the headphone wires (or better yet, write down on a piece of paper which wire was soldered to which contact). Here is the standard wiring of headphone wires by color:
- green wire is the left channel;
- the red wire is the right channel;
- yellow (copper) wire is common.
You will find more detailed information about which wire in the headphones is responsible for what later in this article (scroll to the very end).
3. Now you need to clean up the headphone wires a little.
What the result should look like: we connect the common wires (which are in colorless varnish) together and tin the very ends:
A few words about how to re-solder the plug on the headphones. It will be bad to pick, because... the wires are covered with varnish insulation. To make the process easier, you can lightly burn the very ends with a lighter.
How to tin wires from headphones using an aspirin tablet, as shown in this video:
Personally, I made do with an ordinary knife, which I used to carefully clean off the enamel coating from the wires. And after that I tinned it in the usual way - with solder and rosin.
4. Now we find an old unnecessary pen somewhere:
and separate the very tip from it:
This will be the body of our new plug.
5. Prepare a piece of heat shrink that will protect the wires from sharp bends at the exit from the plug:
6. It's time to solder the headphone wires to the plug. You need to solder in full accordance with the colors of the wires in the headphones (we remember where which color was soldered or look for our piece of paper where everything is written down):
Don't forget to pre-fit the casing and heat shrink onto the wire!
7. Make sure everything works. To do this, turn the multimeter into dialing mode, plug the headphones into your ears and alternately touch the probes to different contacts. All sorts of rustling and clicking noises should be heard in different channels.
Or you can try to plug this unfinished plug into your phone or MP3 player and start playing music. In the latter case, it is important to make sure that the right and left channels work independently of each other (use the balance adjustment).
8. If everything sounds as it should , we shrink the heat shrink using a hair dryer or a regular lighter:
9. Apply a couple of drops of epoxy glue:
Glue everything together and leave for several hours until complete polymerization.
10. We are happy with how we fixed the headphone plug!
Look at the photo of how I managed to solder the new plug to the headphones:
In my opinion, this is the easiest way to fix a headphone plug of all those proposed on the Internet. Despite the fact that the result is quite decent. If you don’t look closely, it’s not even clear that it’s homemade.
By the way, at first I had the idea to make a paste from baking soda and superglue to use it instead of epoxy resin.
But it turned out that this mixture hardens so quickly (almost instantly!) that this option had to be discarded as unsuitable.
That's all. Now you know how to make headphones if the plug is broken and which wire in the headphones is responsible for what. Always try to figure out how everything works, how to repair the plug on your headphones with your own hands, save your money!
Additionally about the colors of wires in headphones
How to properly solder wires to a headphone plug is out of the question if you are not familiar with the colors of wires in headphones and their meaning (for example, do you know what the green wire is responsible for?)
A different number of wires may come to the headphone plug:
- 2 wires (for mono headphones);
- 3 wires (for mono or stereo headphones depending on the connection diagram);
- 4 wires (for stereo headphones);
- 5 or 6 wires (for stereo headset with microphone).
2 wires
I don’t think anyone needs to explain how to repair a headphone plug if they only have two wires. It is basically impossible to confuse anything here.
3 wires
There are always two wires coming from each ear - plus and minus, but sometimes the manufacturer combines the minuses of both speakers together and it turns out that only three wires come to the plug. To make it clearer, here is a soldering diagram for a headphone plug:
This picture explains even more clearly where to solder the wires to the headphone plug:
Most often, the wires are coated with varnish of different colors:
- red - right channel;
- green, blue or white wire - left channel;
- colorless varnish - common wire (ground).
Of course, there are no strict standards and colors may vary. Here's what it looks like in real life:
Let's see how to properly solder a wire to the headphones (3 wires):
4 wires
If your plug has 4 wires, then there may be options.
Option one: you have regular headphones without a microphone and without buttons (the plug has only 3 contacts). Then these four wires are simply two pairs of wires from each of the speakers. Their disadvantages are the same color (copper), and their advantages are different (usually blue and red or green and red):
In this case, common wires (those of the same color) are connected together and soldered to the common contact of the plug. You should immediately understand how to solder 4 wires from the headphones to the plug from the figure:
Here's how to solder headphones to such a jack:
Option two: you have a full-fledged headset (i.e., headphones with a microphone) and the plug has 4 contacts. Then, most likely, these four wires are one wire from each speaker, one signal wire from the microphone, and one common wire for all.
Schematically, this can be indicated as follows:
And here's how to make a plug on the headphones (correct soldering of headphones when there are 4 wires):
Detailed instructions for replacing the headphone plug with a microphone are given in this article.
Most often, a microphone wire only looks like one wire, but in reality it is two wires: a thin wire in white PVC insulation completely wrapped in enameled copper wire (in colorless enamel). Something like this: And in this case it would be more correct to say that the headphones have not 4 wires, but all 5.
5, 6 or more wires
Depending on the implementation option, there may be 5 or more wires inside the cable from the headset. Up to 10! Be that as it may, they always try to make the signal wire from the microphone in its own “ground” braid.
In short, if you gutted your cable and it looks something like this:
or even this: no one will immediately tell you how to properly solder the plug to such headphones. There can only be one piece of advice here: take a tester and test all the wires until you determine where the right ear is and where the left is. The remaining wires are to the microphone.
Determine by color which wires may be common and connect them all together. Solder all signal signals according to the connector pinout (see pictures above).
Then test the headphones and microphone. If something is wrong, look for the reason. No one will really tell you anything here; proceed using the scientific dildo method.
Good luck!
Source: http://electro-shema.ru/remont/kak-pripayat-naushniki-k-shtekeru.html
How to properly solder a wire to a terminal
· 09.09.2019
In order to solder a wire to a wire, you need to purchase several tools and materials at once, such as:
- Flux is a means for cleaning the surface of oxidized metal. There are:
- acidic;
- anti-corrosion;
- acid-free;
- activated;
- Solder is an alloy of tin and lead.
- Workplace (clean, spacious table, metal sheets or wooden boards can be used as a lining).
- Soldering iron (the tip must be clean, without any residue of old rosin)
- A rag or sponge to clean the tip.
When soldering wires, you should follow a number of rules that will help you solder wires correctly and quickly:
- You need to work in a well-lit room with a desk lamp that runs from external power sources.
- You should only work with voltage-free wires.
- There are a number of connection types , each suitable for a different soldering category.
- In addition, there are a number of metals that are not suitable for soldering. These include rusty metal (it does not connect well when soldered, and a wire with such a core has a high probability of burning), aluminum (after the process of stripping the wire is completed, there is a possibility of the formation of a so-called oxide film on it). This problem is typical for aluminum: when melting this metal, an oxide film is formed in 100% of cases. This film can be removed by chemical or mechanical means, which will be selected based on the soldering method. In order to avoid its formation, you need to use flux, which is designed for soldering the materials you need, chrome-plated parts, parts made under high pressure (do not melt or fuse with solder).
- Metals that are suitable for soldering: tin, silver, copper, brass, zinc, nickel, iron, stainless steel.
If all the rules are followed and the tools are collected, then you can proceed to the preparation process:
- Heating the soldering iron - the soldering iron must be heated to a temperature that will exceed the temperature of the solder.
- Preparing the soldering iron - the soldering iron tip must be cleaned and then dipped in flux. Flux is rosin or other substance that helps clean metal. After that, you need to heat the solder and apply it to the tip.
- Expose the wires. This procedure is quite simple to perform. There are 2 types of wires - single-core and stranded. In both cases, it is necessary to strip the wires of insulation, after which the wires need to be cleaned of various contaminants. If you need to clean wires that have limited access, you can use cotton swabs.
Step-by-step instructions for the soldering process
Let's look at the instructions for the soldering process using the example of fastening 2 copper wires.
If all preparation steps have been completed, then you can proceed directly to the soldering process:
- The first thing to do is tin the wires. When tinning multi-core wires, you need to twist them first, then the process will happen much faster.
- To tinning wires , you need to take a bare wire, put it on rosin or treat it with another flux, after which you need to carefully pour solder on top of it.
- Fix the wires - sometimes special machines are used for this, sometimes home-made structures. If you incorrectly fixed the wires, the soldering process may not end well.
- Connection – at this stage we connect 2 pre-treated wires and coat them with solder. In order to carry out this process, you need to melt a little solder with the heated part of the soldering tool, and then carefully apply it to the connection of the two wires.
- Cleaning the connection - at the end of the soldering process, it is necessary to clean the junction of the wires; this can be done with sandpaper or a file. A very important process, since if there is oxidation at this location, the wires may burn.
- Insulation winding - most often insulating tape is used for these purposes; it is the most versatile option. Its advantages are that it is easily accessible, can be purchased at any store, is easy to use, there is nothing difficult in wrapping the wire with electrical tape, it is durable, you can not change it for a long time.'
if the wire is clean and made of copper, then tinning will occur instantly
How to unsolder the wire?
Instructions:
- First you need to prepare a soldering iron. It is necessary to warm up the tool, then treat it with flux, and then carefully melt a small amount of solder.
- After this, strip the required part of the wire of insulation and clean it of mechanical contaminants.
- Wire tinning – it is necessary to apply flux to the wire and remove all oxidation.
- Secure the wire.
- Mark the desoldering area - use a file to cut out a small strip along which the tip will move.
- Carefully move the sting along the marked line several times until you achieve the result.
- Wait until the wire cools to room temperature.
- Apply insulation.
Source: https://vi-pole.ru/kak-pravilno-pripajat-provod-k-klemme.html
Correct connection of electrical wires: do-it-yourself soldering
There is wiring in every house. And the correct connection of wires is part of the safety of the electrical network and its trouble-free operation.
Installation of electrical wiring in an apartment or cottage involves connecting the wires of distribution boxes and switchboards. The safety of the electrical network and its trouble-free operation depend on how correctly and efficiently all connections are made.
Correct connection of electrical wires
Methods for connecting electrical wires
Electricians use the following methods for connecting wires:
- twisted;
- soldering;
- using terminal blocks;
- crimping;
- with bolts;
- plastic PPE;
- “Wago” – spring terminals;
- "nuts" made of plastic.
The choice depends:
- from the material of the wire (cable) cores;
- on the operating conditions of the electrical network (external or internal wiring, hidden or laid openly);
- from the cross-section of the connected conductors;
- on the number of cores in one connection.
The connection of the distribution box wires must be made in such a way as to ensure reliable contact and avoid heating the wires. Here is an overview of the above methods for connecting current-carrying conductors.
Features of using terminal blocks to connect electrical wires
The terminal block consists of a plastic housing, a brass or copper bushing with threads and screws located on both sides.
This device allows you to:
- save on electrical equipment: the terminal block is cheaper than other connectors;
- connect the wires securely;
- connect cores of dissimilar metals (copper with aluminum);
- reduce installation time.
Disadvantages of terminal connectors:
- unsuitability for connecting more than two conductors;
- difficulties when connecting aluminum conductors: if the screw is over-tightened, the metal may break;
- unsuitable for use with multi-core wires.
The connection of electrical wires in the terminal block is carried out as follows.
The outer insulation is partially removed from the cables and the cores are exposed. The length of the bare conductor depends on the size of the terminal.
The length of the wire section without insulation is checked, for which you need to unscrew the terminal screw and insert the core completely into the hole. The excess is cut off with side cutters.
To improve contact, the copper wire is tinned. The connected cores are inserted into the terminals one by one and clamped with screws in several stages.
The reliability of the connection is checked.
Tip: in order to remove the insulation without damaging the core, it is recommended to use a special tool. If this is not available, only the surface layer of insulation is cut in a circle with a sharp knife, after which the wire should be bent along the cut line. After breaking, the insulation is removed with a light movement of pliers.
We use spring terminals to connect electrical wires
The connection of conductors with spring terminals is carried out using springs that press the contact plate to the metal of the core. The mechanism is driven by a special lever.
Wago type terminal connector
The Wago technology has a number of advantages over other installation methods:
- allows you to connect aluminum wires with copper;
- can be used to connect more than two wires;
- allow you to switch wires in small junction boxes;
- installation is carried out efficiently and in the shortest possible time;
- conductor cores are not damaged;
- After installation, it is possible to check the continuity of the circuit using a device probe or indicator through a hole in the housing.
In order to connect the wires using Wago terminals, it is necessary to remove the insulation so that the exposed wires are not visible, then insert the wires into the connector sockets and press the levers until they stop.
Note: Wago spring terminals are available in reusable and disposable versions. The latter, if it is necessary to repair the connection, are cut off, after which new connectors are installed.
Connecting conductors using PPE caps
The PPE cap is screwed onto the connection clockwise
The abbreviation PPE means “connecting insulating clamps”. The connector is designed as a spring located in a plastic housing. The spring securely holds the wires together, which creates reliable contact. Advantages of this method:
- the ability to mark wires using colored caps: the “phase” conductors connect red PPE, “zero” – blue or white, “ground” – yellow or green;
- fire protection: connector bodies are made of non-flammable plastic.
Important: connecting copper and aluminum wires using PPE is not allowed.
Crimping with sleeves
Connecting conductor cores with sleeves
The method consists of putting a metal tube (sleeve) on the cores freed from insulation, which is crimped with press pliers. As a result, the conductors are tightly connected to each other. The connection point is isolated.
Important: connections of aluminum and copper conductors may only be made using sleeves specially designed for this purpose.
Welding or soldering technology allows you to obtain a reliable connection of wires
The disadvantage of this method is the inability to monitor the integrity of the network after installation and isolation, as well as the non-repairability of such a connection. Additionally, a DIY soldering torch is dangerous to use.
An alternative to soldering wires is to weld them. The process involves the use of a welding machine.
Wire welding technology
When connecting copper wires this way, it is recommended that you try out a DIY copper wire soldering transformer before you begin. It is important to know that copper is smelted at a temperature of 1080 °C, but above 300 °C this metal becomes brittle.
In the absence of a special soldering device, use a conventional inverter welding machine. The step-by-step process of welding wires is as follows.
Up to 10 cm of insulation is removed from the ends of the wires.
The cores of the connected wires are tightly twisted together. The result should be twists approximately 5 cm long.
The ground cable of the inverter apparatus is connected to the twist closer to its beginning.
The current adjustment knob is set in the position from 30 to 90 A (at a voltage of 12 - 36 V): the value is selected depending on the cross-section of the wire and their number.
The carbon electrode of the welding machine briefly (no more than 2 s) touches the twist so that an arc is formed. As a result, a welded monolithic joint is formed at the tip of the twist. After complete cooling, the connection is insulated with heat shrink tubing or adhesive tape.
At the ends of the cores connected by welding, a monolithic alloy is formed
Connecting electrical wires by soldering
Soldering copper wires is an old, proven method that allows you to obtain a reliable electrical connection. The technology allows the installation of monolithic and stranded wires of various sections. There can be several conductors in one connection.
The work is performed using the following technology.
The insulation is removed from the ends of the connected conductors using a special device (approximately 5 cm).
The strands are tightly twisted together manually or using pliers (depending on the number of strands and their sections).
The twist is treated with flux or rosin.
This is necessary to improve the quality of soldering. On an open fire (using a gas burner or a gasoline blowtorch), a cup soldering iron (futorka) is heated red-hot. The cup of the futor is filled to the brim with tin-lead solder grade POS 30, POS 40 or POS 61.
The solder is heated to the point of fluidity.
The twist is briefly (up to 1 second) completely dipped into the futor cup, as a result of which the solder should completely cover the exposed wires.
After natural cooling, the twist is insulated with PVC adhesive tape or a plastic cap.
Important: soldering of wires should be done with safety glasses and tarpaulin gloves. During work, fire safety rules must be observed.
Soldering copper wires is performed as shown in the video.
Connecting wires with simple twisting
Wire connection diagrams in a distribution box for low-power electrical networks can be implemented by simple twisting without the use of additional fixing means. In this case, it is important that the twisting step is as small as possible, and its length is at least 20 mm. Only cores made of homogeneous metals are connected in this way: copper - with copper, aluminum - with aluminum.
It is not allowed to use this installation method in damp rooms and in wooden houses.
After twisting, the wire connection should look as shown in the photo
Walnut clamp
For connecting wires with a cross-section of 4 square meters. mm and it is more convenient to use a “walnut” clamp. It consists of a pair of specially shaped plates that are pressed together with screws at the corners. Advantages of the method:
- ease of connection;
- the ability to connect copper conductors with aluminum ones;
- comparative cheapness of materials.
Important: the “walnut” clamp is not used in distribution boxes (dimensions do not allow). To ensure reliable contact, the screws must be tightened from time to time.
Using a bolted connection to connect electrical wires
To connect large cross-section wires, as well as to install grounding elements in an electrical panel, a bolted connection is used. The ends of the wires, freed from insulation, are screwed onto the bolt threads in a clockwise direction. The connection is pressed with a washer with an engraver and a nut, after which the bolt is isolated.
In conclusion, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the training video (master class with expert comments).
published econet.ru
If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the experts and readers of our project here.
Source: https://econet.ru/articles/185364-pravilnoe-soedinenie-elektricheskih-provodov-payka-svoimi-rukami
Let's figure out how to solder wires - two methods and recommendations for the soldering process
- 1. Soldering methods
- 2. Recommendations
- 3. Conclusion on the topic
The process of soldering wires may seem simple, and in fact it is. But not everyone succeeds in connecting two wires to each other in a high-quality manner. Why? Because there are certain requirements for the soldering iron itself, as well as for the soldering process. So, let's consider the question of how to solder wires?
Let's start with the tool itself - the soldering iron. Before soldering, you need to prepare the soldering iron. What do I need to do?
- Clean his sting. To do this, you can use a file or sandpaper. It is important to remove any remaining tin and dirt from the file tip, that is, the main thing is to get to the copper from which the soldering iron is made.
- Now we plug the soldering tool into a 220 volt outlet. We begin to heat it up.
- Now we periodically touch the tip of the tip to either rosin or solder. We do this several times. Our task is to uniformly cover the working surface of the tool with solder.
So, the soldering iron is ready, you can move on to the question of how to properly solder wires with a soldering iron.
Soldering methods
Before moving on to the main question of the topic of the article, how to solder two ends together, I would like to give some tips on how to properly carry out soldering.
Firstly, it should be noted that the soldering iron itself only plays the role of a heating element. With its help, the wire is heated, which itself melts the solder. And this is exactly how you need to act, and not the other way around, the solder is heated by the soldering iron and sticks to the wire. This is not true.
Secondly, the solder adheres to the conductors at the molecular level. This is not just a layer of metal stuck under temperature, it is a strong molecular connection that makes two metals one.
Thirdly, apply the soldering iron to the heated element over the entire plane of the tip. This increases the heat transfer of the tool.
Fourthly, the process itself must be carried out quickly.
Attention! If soldering does not work out the first time, you should not start the process right away. You need to let the wires cool down and then try again.
Fifthly, soldering time is determined only experimentally, so to speak, at random. If you carry out the process too quickly, the wire may not warm up. Please note that flux must be applied only before soldering so that it does not evaporate.
Sixth, a high-quality soldering process is visible to the naked eye: the solder layer is shiny, it is laid evenly without bumps or dents.
So, our soldering iron is ready, we now know the requirements, we can move on to the main process. What is its sequence?
- First of all, preparation is necessary. If it is a multi-core cable, then the insulation must be removed from it and twisted so that the small veins become a single whole.
- Next, you need to take a little solder on the tip of the soldering iron, place the wire in rosin and begin to melt it, applying solder evenly to the bare wire. This is called tinning. We do the same with the other end.
- Now everything is simple, you need to lay the two ends of the wire next to each other, press them and solder them, that is, heat them with a soldering iron with solder applied to the tip. Again, please note that the top layer of solder should be shiny and evenly applied.
- There is another way. To do this, the two tinned ends must be twisted together, and after that the connection must be soldered. But it is better to carry out twist soldering in a manner similar to the tinning process. That is, you dip it in rosin, heat the latter with a soldering iron and apply solder inside the rosin.
Recommendations
Some useful tips have already been given, but I would like to highlight some additional recommendations. For example, how much solder is needed for the soldering to work properly. It’s impossible to say for sure here, but if there is not enough solder, then there will not be enough to cover the entire joint. If there is a lot of it, the soldering will end up in the form of a drop, which is also unacceptable, especially in a gasket system (in a bundle).
The same applies to the temperature of the soldering iron. If it is low or too high, then the soldering turns out to be unshiny and loose with low quality indicators. This fully applies to the amount of rosin and solder. If there is more rosin than solder, then the former will boil and splatter, which is very bad for adjacent connections and contacts.
If all of the above is normal, then the solder itself will be evenly distributed over the connection. The shape of the solder and its strength will form by itself. And one more point: soldering copper wires (quality) means preparing them, that is, tinning. Without this, the connection process cannot be carried out, because pure copper wires can be connected either by riveting or welding.
Beginners can be advised to first determine how long it takes for a soldering iron to overheat. If it takes ten to fifteen minutes, then it is better to purchase an additional transformer with smooth voltage regulation or an electronic thermostat.
By the way, you can determine that the tip of the soldering iron is overheated very simply - the solder has flown off the tip of the tip, which has turned black (oxidized). Of course, you don’t have to buy additional devices, then during the soldering process the tool will have to be periodically disconnected from the network.
Although this method is not the best, because it is almost impossible to control the temperature in such a situation.
Attention! Rosin is consumed ten times less than solder. You should not dip the entire soldering iron into the flux (meaning the tip), you just need to touch it.
And the last piece of advice in our article is to never artificially cool the soldering area. Cooling should occur naturally. Do not blow on the connection or apply wet objects to it.
Conclusion on the topic
So, we tried to answer in this article the question of how to solder the ends of the wires together? Useful tips and recommendations on the process were given, and your attention was drawn to some of the nuances that make it high quality. And, of course, we described two methods of joining and fastening.
As you can see, in order to solder wires you need to know some things regarding the temperature of the process and the amount of materials needed. In addition, let’s say that experts recommend soldering wires correctly using POS-1 brand solder; 40 or 50, as well as flux based on an alcohol solution of rosin.
Since soldering wires is not difficult, you can begin the process immediately after studying this information.
Source: https://onlineelektrik.ru/paika/kak-payat-provoda-dva-sposoba-i-rekomendacii-k-payachnomu-processu.html
How to solder parts without a soldering iron: soldering wires and circuit boards at home using improvised means
Soldering is a simple matter, so many can do it without even holding a soldering iron in their hands. But there are times when this device is not nearby, but you need to solder something. This is where the dilemma arises, how to solder without a soldering iron, and whether it is even possible to carry out such a procedure without having the necessary tool or the ability to use it.
Many people have had moments in their lives when the wire in the charger, headphones, laptop power supply, or somewhere else broke or broke. What can be done in this case? How can I help myself fix the problem, at least temporarily, until I can solve the problem in a more rational and reliable way?
As it turns out, nothing is impossible. You can solder without a soldering iron. In the most unpredictable situations, it is always possible to solve the problem using improvised methods.
Necessary equipment
Of course, soldering without a soldering iron implies the presence of the most primitive tool and solder. It’s good if you also have rosin or acid, although in extreme cases just an aspirin tablet will do. Among the tools we can highlight:
- pliers;
- knife;
- foil;
- textile;
- solder paste;
- file or coarse sandpaper;
- source of fire.
It is not necessary to have all this together. Some tools can easily be replaced with what you have on hand. Instead of a file, you can take a knife , and sticks of the desired shape can successfully replace pliers. The main thing here is to turn on your imagination.
Tinning of parts
Whatever surface is offered for soldering, it is necessary to prepare it, that is, tin it. This will allow you to more reliably connect the parts together, and will also greatly simplify the process itself. To work you will need rosin (or soldering acid) and tin.
To carry out the tinning process, you will need a container where the solder and rosin will be melted. You can use a lid from iron cans, a small metal box, or something similar to a trough. Tin shavings are rubbed here using a file or sandpaper. It’s good if you have tin-lead solder - it’s more convenient to work with. If it is not there, then you will have to use rosin or acid.
Everything is clear with acid, just immerse the stripped edge of the wire in it, and then continue soldering. You will have to do the same with rosin as with tin, but it is not at all necessary to grind it off with a file. Its pieces can be large, since the melting point of rosin is much lower than that of tin, so even large pieces will have time to melt before the metal melts.
The container must be held over a fire source until the tin is completely melted. Next, the bare or stripped ends of the wire are placed first in rosin, and then in molten tin. When the result is satisfactory, that is, the exposed wire is well covered with a layer of metal, the container can be set aside.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKZBAqnGoZ4
If it is necessary to tin a flat-shaped part, then the algorithm of actions will be slightly different. Here, fine tin shavings and rosin are poured directly onto the surface of the part. Next, this part is heated , as a result of which the molten tin will evenly cover it. Remove excess with a rag or sandpaper.
Do not forget that when working with fire, iron parts will heat up, so you need to handle them with pliers or a rag to avoid getting burned. No one has canceled basic safety precautions.
Soldering wires
To solder small-section copper wires without a soldering iron, no complicated steps are required.
It is enough to simply twist the already tinned ends of the wire together, then use a match, lighter or other directed flame to warm them up well.
The solder left on the hairs during tinning is quite enough for them to be firmly connected to each other. After this, it is important not to forget to insulate the exposed areas with electrical tape, hot glue or another available method.
Wires of larger cross-section (up to 2 mm) can be soldered in a similar way. If there is not enough solder from tinning, then tin shavings are carefully placed on the twist, after which the soldered area is also heated. When the tin melts and fills all the voids between the wire hairs, soldering can be stopped. But don’t forget to insulate the exposed area.
If you need to solder a wire to a flat part or connect two parts of a flat shape to each other, then you need to pour crushed solder onto the tinned place, then attach the wire and heat the parts until the tin is completely melted. In the case of two flat parts, the tinned surface is also covered with pieces of tin, another flat part is placed, they are compressed and heated.
Connection with groove
You can solder without a soldering iron in another interesting way. To implement this, you need a small piece of thick foil. This method allows you to solder fairly thick wires with a cross-section of up to 3 millimeters. This method is also interesting because it does not require pre-tinning.
First, you need to strip the ends of the wires by about 30 mm, and securely twist the exposed parts together. Now a small rectangle is cut out of the foil of such a size that the prepared ends can be completely covered with it. Foil is wound onto the wires in the form of a funnel, into which small pieces of rosin and tin shavings are poured. The ends of the groove are twisted to prevent the contents from spilling out.
Now the resulting structure must be heated until the tin and rosin melt. After this, all that remains is to wait for the soldered parts to cool down. The remaining foil is removed and, if necessary, the weld area is treated with a file, needle file or emery cloth. This method is perfect when you need to quickly and without tools solder wires in the field.
Cooking pasta
You can solder without a soldering iron using solder paste. Having prepared such a solution, you can connect not only wires and flat elements, but also some radio components, and also solder the wire to the board without a soldering iron.
To make solder paste, you will need to mix 32 ml of hydrochloric acid with 12 ml of water. 8.1 g of zinc is added to the resulting solution, and after dissolving it, another 7.8 g of tin. All this is done in glass or enamel containers. When the reaction is complete, all that remains is to evaporate the water to form a paste-like mixture.
Now another 7.4 g of lead, 14.8 g of tin, 10 ml of glycerin, 7.5 g of dry ammonia, 29.6 g of powdered zinc and 9.4 g of rosin should be added to the paste. All components must first be heated and brought to a dusty state.
When the composition is ready, it can always be used for its intended purpose. It is preferable to store the paste in a tightly closed glass container. Soldering with this composition is extremely simple:
- The areas of parts to be soldered are cleaned.
- Using a brush, apply a thin layer of paste to the joints.
- The area where the parts are to be welded or soldered is heated with a candle, lighter or other method. It is highly preferable to use a turbo lighter or a gas torch with a directed flame. However, in their absence, any source of open fire will do.
In this way, it is quite possible to solder almost any parts and wires at home without a soldering iron, but the process of making the solder paste itself can be intimidating. But there is a much more attractive alternative - solder paste can be bought ready-made.
For soldering very small parts and thin wires, it is preferable to make solder paste with a slightly different composition . It will contain the following ingredients:
- 7.4 g lead powder;
- 7.3 g of zinc in dust form;
- 14 g glycerin;
- 4 g rosin;
- 14.8 g of powdered tin;
- 10 ml diethyl ether.
All components are mixed to a paste. Instead of diethyl ether, you can use 10 ml of rosin dissolved in glycerin. Using this tool, it becomes possible to solder a wire or part onto the board.
Homemade soldering jig
You can make a soldering iron from a candle or lighter. True, it is better to take the latter from good heat-resistant plastic, since a disposable Chinese device will not work for even a minute, and the metal device can get very hot. You will also need a piece of thick copper wire with a diameter of 3 to 5 millimeters and some thin wire for winding to the lighter.
The thick wire must be completely stripped of insulation, and then bent so that one part can be wound to a lighter or candle, and the opposite end is above the flame for constant heating. Such an improvised tip is capable of soldering even small parts (down to the tiniest resistors). True, you can’t do without tin and rosin. To make work more convenient, it is preferable to sharpen the working area of the tip.
Alternative Repair Methods
If a wire is broken and you urgently need to restore it, at least for a short time, then there are faster alternatives. True, without soldering, but quite capable of helping in emergency situations.
So, a broken wire can simply be cut at the break point and simply twisted together. It is important here not to confuse the polarity, since chargers have a constant voltage. It wouldn't hurt to insulate the twists either.
You can temporarily attach a wire with a flat surface. To do this, just tightly attach one part to the other and fill it with molten plastic. Such restoration will be sufficient if you use the resulting connection carefully and briefly.
No matter what happens, you can always find a way out of the current situation if you turn on your fantasy and imagination. Sometimes this will not help to repair the device, but it will allow you to urgently restore its functionality for a short time.
Source: https://220v.guru/elementy-elektriki/provodka/kak-samostoyatelno-spayat-provoda-i-detali-bez-payalnika.html
Wire to wire: how to solder, advice on choosing a soldering iron and a description of the soldering procedure
Every man has had to solder something to something in his life. The temperature effect on the parts for their subsequent connection is considered almost the most reliable method of connection. It is believed that soldering is quite simple, but one cannot ignore the fact that to successfully carry out this procedure, certain skills and experience will be required.
The article below will allow users who do not have the proper experience and skills to become familiar with the process of soldering wires, and will also help to select a soldering device . This can also raise certain questions for a person who will be soldering for the first time and simply does not know how to solder correctly.
How to choose a soldering iron
Of course, it would be ideal if the user has a soldering station, and not just a soldering iron. But it is not always possible to purchase such a useful device, and soldering irons may well be suitable for soldering wires.
First, let's look at what a device such as a soldering iron is. A soldering iron is a device that is used for soldering using temperature .
- You can find soldering irons ranging from 15 to 30 watts. Such devices are used for soldering board parts, as well as for electrical circuits. In order to re-solder an incorrect connection of thick wires, you will need soldering irons that will be higher in power.
- There are also acoustic soldering irons. They are usually used by electrical engineers who solder office equipment. Its advantages are that it differs from other models in its low heat capacity, small size, and excellent performance. It is used for very fine soldering work, for example, for assembling circuits.
- There are also industrial soldering irons. These devices are used for fairly large and difficult jobs. Where intervention of a very high power device is required. Industrial soldering irons are used to attach chassis, calibration cables or stained glass work.
It is recommended to choose a soldering iron with a three-way grounding plug . The advantage of such a device is that it prevents voltage dissipation along the current path.
In principle, for a person who has no experience in soldering, a soldering iron with a range of 15 to 30 Watts is also suitable, but it should be remembered that such a small voltage is not enough even to solder audio wires.
Car enthusiasts can recommend soldering irons with a power of 40 watts, since such devices are the best option for using them in cars.
Soldering Station
Above in the article such a device as a soldering station was mentioned. This is a very interesting and productive device that provides autonomy, as it is connected to an alternating current source and is capable of emitting power up to 80 Watts. Experts say that when using this device for soldering, a certain ease is observed, in contrast to the use of simple soldering irons.
The advantages of such soldering installations can be expressed in a separate list:
- Possibility of temperature control down to almost one degree;
- Using a soldering station, you can make even some of the most difficult and complex connections made of steel, stainless steel, aluminum, etc.;
- Durability of the device;
- The ability to easily solder polypropylene pipes, as well as plastic, since temperature control allows this to be done.
But this device also has its drawbacks .
We must not forget that to use a soldering station you should have at least some initial skill and a little experience, otherwise difficulties and even certain risks may arise.
In addition, soldering stations are quite expensive, and they consume a lot of electricity. The user must weigh all the pros and cons before purchasing a soldering machine, since with all the advantages there are also disadvantages.
How to solder correctly?
After we have looked at what soldering irons exist, we should move on to the actual act of soldering wires. But first, you need to understand the components of the process itself. Let's consider points regarding the features of soldering and those things that the user will need to solder wires.
To solder two wires, you must first tin the soldering iron and wires . The fact is that if you ignore this procedure, the device simply will not solder, so it is highly recommended to do this. By the way, if the user has a soldering station and not a soldering iron, then tinning will not be required.
How to tin a soldering iron?
- To tinning a soldering iron, take a file and apply it flat to the cut of the soldering iron tip. You need to sharpen the tip until it becomes smooth, flat and shiny.
- The heated tip should be immersed in rosin, and then in solder (usually tin). The solder will hardly stick to the tip, so after the procedure described above, you should attach the tip to a board of natural origin. It should be remembered that chipboard is not suitable for such purposes.
- You should repeat these manipulations with the tip (immersion in rosin - tin - application to the board) until it becomes completely silver from the solder, evenly covering it. This is called “tinning” the soldering iron. Tinning a soldering iron is not so difficult, so any user can perform this procedure, even those who have never dealt with soldering before.
How to tin a wire?
After the user has tinned the soldering iron itself, he needs to tin the wire before soldering.
First you need to remove the insulation from the wire . It is necessary to remove just enough so that in the future there is enough space for subsequent soldering. The process of removing the insulation should also be monitored in order to subsequently avoid short circuits.
Of course, tinning the wire is much easier. The fact is that under the insulation the wire has pure metal, not oxidized one. The exposed wire should be dipped into the rosin already mentioned above, placing a soldering iron tip (preheated) on top of it.
Then you should pull the wire out of the rosin after it begins to melt and smoke. This procedure is necessary so that the molten rosin envelops the wire, namely its contact part.
Then you should enrich the soldering iron tip with solder, using the same tin, that is, by touching it, after which you need to bring the tip to the rosin that has stuck to the wire.
It is impossible not to mention the point that if the wire is copper and clean, tinning will occur literally immediately. If tinning does not happen the first time, you need to repeat the procedure, or use a special substance - solder paste , which is a very effective assistant in soldering, given the fact that even iron can be tinned with its help.
How to solder a wire correctly?
In order to solder two wires, no special effort is required. Perhaps the most difficult thing was the procedure of tinning both one wire and the other.
The soldering process itself will consist in the fact that you just need to bring one tinned part of one wire with the tinned part of another. a hot soldering iron tip , which should have previously been enriched with solder, should be brought to the place of their contact The solder should cover the tinned parts of the soldered wires well and tightly. This will be facilitated by rosin, which is beneficially involved in this process.
Once the wires are in the molten solder, you should try to avoid any movement so that the soldering is successful. You can also lightly blow on the area where the melted solder is until it turns from shiny to dark, which will indicate that the solder is hardening.
That's basically it. The user can be proud of the work done, especially if this is his first soldering, and he did everything right, following the tips described above.
By the way, it also seems possible to unsolder the wires If suddenly the user needs to unsolder two wires, the same procedure should be done, only in reverse. You just need to heat the soldering area with a hot soldering iron tip.
You should bring the tip to the junction of the wires and melt the hardened solder. After the solder has melted, it is possible to simply disconnect the previously soldered wires.
By the way, we must not forget that during soldering the soldering iron tip should also be in rosin.
conclusions
Soldering wires doesn't seem difficult. Even a completely inexperienced user can perform this procedure without any serious problems. It may seem that this is not such an easy procedure, but basically such thoughts arise due to the need to tinning the soldering iron tip and wires. itself is not at all complicated , but all these manipulations can simply be exhausting, especially if the user has no experience at all.
It should be remembered that the choice of soldering iron should be made in accordance with the needs of the user. You need to know that different operations will require devices with different powers.
As stated above, soldering irons in the 15 to 30 Watt range are too weak and can only be used in low-to-light soldering applications. In addition, even simple soldering of wires from audio equipment for such devices will be an exorbitant task.
It is recommended to use soldering irons with a power of 40 watts or more . They are the best options for any user.
Soldering stations are very good and useful devices, but they have a number of disadvantages. Their use requires a certain amount of experience, they are energy-consuming, and they are very expensive. As advantages, we can mention their durability, as well as the ability to control the temperature down to a degree.
The tinning procedure is very important in the soldering process, so it should not be neglected and is not recommended. It’s better to tinker a little with rosin and solder than to be content with poor-quality soldering later.
Source: https://stanok.guru/metalloobrabotka/payka/provod-k-provodu-kak-pripayat-i-chem.html
How to solder copper wires with a soldering iron - Metals, equipment, instructions
Soldering wires with a soldering iron is not difficult, so even an inexperienced electrician can handle this method of connecting copper wires.
Next, we will tell you how to properly solder wires in a distribution box - the place where electrical wiring is carried out in rooms. The technology will be provided step by step, with pictures and video examples, so that you can more clearly understand how to solder two wires together.
We immediately draw your attention to the fact that we will tell you how to solder copper wires. This is due to the fact that aluminum conductors are practically no longer used at home.
GOST standards recommend avoiding the connection of different non-ferrous metals (aluminum and copper conductors), so the only safe option for a private house and apartment is to solder the copper cable cores.
Step 1 – Prepare the tool
First, you need to prepare a soldering iron for soldering wires with your own hands. All that is required is to thoroughly clean the tip from solder residues or other possible contaminants.
For this you can use a regular file. In addition, you must prepare solder and flux, without which you will not be able to solder wires with a soldering iron. As for solder, in order to solder the wires, you can use either an alloy of tin and lead, or a special thread, as shown in the photo below.
Flux is necessary so that during soldering the solder evenly covers the materials being soldered. In addition, flux removes the oxide film from copper conductors, which significantly impairs the reliability of the connection. As a flux, you can use either rosin or special soldering acid. Both options are popular among craftsmen.
Another important stage of preparation is creating a suitable workplace. You should have an outlet and a stand for a soldering iron nearby so that the technology of soldering wires with your own hands is safe.
By the way, you can make a soldering iron with your own hands, which will not take much time and effort. A homemade device will serve you for quite a long time, as you can see for yourself!
Step 2 – Tinning
So, if you need to solder two power wires together, then first of all you must remove the polyethylene insulation and tin the exposed wires, especially if they are very thin.
Before soldering, the stranded conductor is first twisted and then treated with flux, on top of which a thin layer of heated solder is applied.
Before soldering, be sure to prepare the tip of the soldering iron - dip it in flux (in the same rosin as shown in the photo), and then in tin so that the tip is covered with a small layer of solder.
Tinning wires for soldering is quite simple - first you must place the bare wire on the rosin, then heat this place with a soldering iron so that the wires are immersed in the flux. After this, you need to take it out and treat it evenly on all sides with solder.
To properly apply the heated tin-lead alloy to the surface, twist the wire in your hands while tinning. If you need to connect the wires in a junction box, for convenience, you can use acid instead of rosin.
It is enough to simply apply it with a brush to the surface that you need to solder.
If the conductors have a large cross-section (thick), tinning is performed in a similar way. The only difference is that you do not need to pre-twist the cores, like a stranded conductor.
After you have completed the tinning, you can move on to the soldering process. We immediately draw your attention to the fact that it is necessary to carry out work only when the electricity is turned off. Soldering live wires is strictly prohibited!
Step 3 – Solder the wires
Well, the last thing left is to solder the two prepared wires in the junction box. All you need to do is twist or overlap the wires and heat the joint with a soldering iron. The solder will melt and after it hardens, it will reliably connect the electrical conductors. We discussed tips for connecting wires by soldering in a junction box separately.
An important point - do not move the wires during soldering, otherwise the connection will not be reliable enough.
It should also be noted that preliminary tinning does not need to be done, but simply twist the wires together in a junction box, treat them with flux and solder them properly. However, we do not recommend you soldering this way, because in this case the connection will be much worse.
Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/kak-spayat-mednye-provoda-payalnikom/
How to solder a plug to all types of headphones
Health and good mood to everyone! Here I have collected pinout diagrams and instructions on how to solder a plug to headphones of all types known to me. I provide instructions on how to repair headphones with your own hands and how to connect the wires without an electric soldering iron. It will be interesting.
I'll start by listing the known types of audio plugs.
Standard plugs
According to Wikipedia, there are the following types of jacks:
- TS/TRS 6.3mm diameter (for microphones, electric guitars, mixing consoles, old professional headphones, etc.)
- TS/TRS/TRRS with a diameter of 3.5 mm (the most common, used for modern headphones, microphones, acoustics, flashes, etc.)
- TS/TRS/TRRS with a diameter of 2.5 mm (for mobile phone headsets, webcams, flashes, etc.)
There is also a type of TRRRS connector, which is used to transmit not only audio, but also video signals.
By the way, this designation is adopted according to the principle: T - Trip (latch), R- Ring (ring), S - Sleeve (sleeve).
How to properly solder a new plug to the headphones, observing the pinout of the wires
To properly solder a headphone or headset plug, you need to know the pinout. It is shown in the table below and taken from the website about connectors.
Minijacks for speakers and microphones also have the same pinouts for 2- and 3-pin plugs.
Plugs and their pinouts for more specialized devices (video cameras, headsets) by manufacturer (Nokia, Samsung, Sony, Panasonic) are shown in the following table.
How does a three-pin jack work?
A regular three-pin stereo jack is designed according to the coaxial principle. Each contact is located in a dielectric sleeve (bushing) and is located inside another sleeve.
The plug contacts are separated from each other by plastic bushings. So this plastic is afraid of overheating, it begins to melt and the contacts will dangle. So if you want to solder a headphone plug, you should remember about overheating the contacts with a soldering iron.
How to repair a headphone plug yourself
To repair a headphone or headset plug with your own hands, you need to carefully remove it from the case if it has not yet fallen out. Usually the plug is filled with rubber. When disassembling, we cut this body along the seam with a sharp knife. The neater the cut, the easier it is to restore the body after repair.
Finding out the cause of the headphones malfunction
The malfunction of headphones most often consists of a break in one of the wires in the plug. Less often, a break occurs near the speaker contacts or the wire breaks due to a violation of the integrity of the insulation.
To determine the malfunction, you need to use a multimeter and ring the plug contacts. From the diagrams above we already know where the common wire and the left and right audio channels are. If the resistance between the contact of one channel and the common wire is more than 20 - 120 Ohms, then most likely there is a break or break in the wire. Remember that the typical winding resistance of modern in-ear headphones is 32 ohms.
The breaking of the wire is determined by the jumping readings of the multimeter when the wire is bent.
The easiest place to find a break is near the headphone speakers. It is often easier to open the speaker housing than to cut the rubber-filled plug. If the wires to the speakers are soldered well, then you should remember about faults in the plug.
Do-it-yourself troubleshooting
Once you have determined the location of the malfunction, you need to get to it and see with your eyes. Then it will become clear how exactly to solder the plug or headphones.
Let's assume that a wire break occurs inside the headphone plug. To disassemble the packaged minijack shown above. Ideally, you should record or photograph the wiring and update the connector soldering. Remember that flexible stranded wires are coated with a good varnish and it is difficult to tin them just like that. First you need to burn the varnish, for example with a soldering iron, lighter or mini-burner. After this, you can tin the wires with rosin or other flux.
It is better to leave 2 - 3 mm of bare wire without braiding to increase the strength of the structure. When we return the plug housing to its place or fill a new housing with sealant, it is necessary to create as large a contact area as possible between the braid and the outer sleeve of the plug. Thus, during jerks, the load will be transferred to the most massive part of the plug, and not to the weak contacts of the left and right channels.
After soldering the headphone plug, its internal contacts can be filled with hot melt glue, epoxy glue or sealant. After drying, file to the desired shape.
How to solder a wire to a headphone speaker
When the wiring breaks near the headphone speaker, it is best to solder it back to the headphone and renew the soldering from the factory. This is how the wires are soldered inside my ancient Aiwa earbuds.
Pay attention to the knot that is tied - it does not allow thin wires to come off when jerking. Before soldering the earphone, be sure to tie the same knot at a certain distance, slightly greater than the distance to the narrow hole.
The question arises - what determines the polarity of connecting the wires to the speaker. The answer is simple - the headphones are connected in the same way so that they work in phase. When the polarity of the headphones is reversed, the sound is smeared and becomes quieter than common-mode sound. If you have a broken wire in one speaker, for proper connection you need to look at the wires and soldering in the other earphone.
What to do if the wire breaks inside the earphone
The most unpleasant thing is when the wire breaks inside the earphone. This means that the speaker winding wire has broken , which is shown in the figure.
The speaker winding is usually glued to the diaphragm and breaks off at the point where the wires are attached to it. Over time, they simply break due to micro-movements.
It is extremely difficult to restore such a break, but it is possible under a microscope. When repairing headphones, you need to be extremely careful not to tear the diaphragm or damage the geometry of the winding. Particular attention should be paid to microdust trapped between the magnet and the winding. Magnetic debris can be easily removed with chewing gum or plasticine.
How to solder headphones with a microphone
To properly repair headphones with a microphone, you need to know the connection circuit and the purpose of the four-pin jack pins. A typical soldering diagram for a microphone plug and a button in a stereo headset is shown in the picture below.
For most manufacturers of simple headsets, the microphone should be soldered as in the picture.
How does a four-pin jack work?
A four-pin jack has the same structure as a three-pin one. Coaxial design and separation by plastic bushings with standard sizes into 4 wires is present on all TRRS plugs. The pinout of 4-wire plugs differs by manufacturer. There's a lot of people here. To correctly replace the headset plug, look at the pinout of the minijacks in the picture.
The picture shows the following symbols: M - microphone, G - common contact, R - right channel, L - left channel. Now it’s clear that soldering headphones onto 4 wires is not an easy task. The wiring diagram of the plug greatly depends on the brand of the headset.
About the colors of wires in headphones
Headphone wire colors are usually standardized. The wire colors for standard headphones with 3 wire types are shown in the photo below.
However, there are still manufacturers who use non-standard wires for soldering headphones and marking channels. For example, Apple uses two-color wire markings in its AirPods headphones.
In such cases, the Internet or the method of checking with a 3-volt battery or multimeter comes to the rescue.
When voltage is applied (with a battery or a multimeter in ohmmeter mode) between the contacts of the speaker, a rustling sound will be heard in it. It's simple. It’s more difficult with headsets, especially if they have buttons. This is where circuitry comes into play. Because manufacturers often use a minimum of pairs of wires to transmit a large number of signals.
How to do without a soldering iron when repairing headphones
It often happens that a person does not have a soldering iron or socket at hand, and the headphone plug does not work. In this case, we can resolder the plug in several non-standard, but acceptable ways.
The first method is to use conductive glue to glue the wires to the mini jack pins. Everything is done simply and neatly. The reliability of such fastening is of course poor, and the electrical resistance of the glue can be tenths of an ohm. If the headphone impedance is 4 -16 ohms, the glue may affect the sound volume. The good thing is that the drying time for conductive glue is usually 10-15 minutes.
The second method is to heat a nail or piece of copper wire in a candle flame. This is a way for romantics : twilight, candles, plug, headphones and you. In this case, it is better to use scented candles. But seriously, you can solder a headphone plug using a fire and coals. The main thing is not to forget good solder and flux.
The third way is to make a gas soldering iron from a lighter with your own hands. You need to take a piece of single-core copper wire and attach it to the lighter so that part of the wire is in the flame. Heat is transferred over a certain distance through a copper wire, as can be seen from the photo.
If you use this method, pay special attention to the place where the wire adheres to the lighter body. A hole may form there due to heating. Be careful! For more details on how to make such a mini soldering iron from a lighter, watch the video.
It looks like I have quite thoroughly discussed the topic of how to solder a plug to headphones or a headset. Today we learned how to solder a plug and headphone speakers even without a soldering iron. I look forward to your questions in the comments and on the forum.
Master Pike.
Source: https://masterpaiki.ru/kak-pripayat-shteker-k-naushnikam-vseh-tipov.html
How to properly solder headphone wires to a plug
A frequent breakdown of headphones is a broken wire near the plug. This is due to the fact that during operation this particular place is subjected to extreme loads. There are two ways out of this situation: buy new ones or solder the plug again. The soldering process is simple, and a person who has skills in working with a soldering iron can handle it.
The main problem during repairs is the pinout of wires. Since the headphones consist of 2-3 pairs of wires, and 1-2 more microphones are additionally added to the headset, which does not make the work easier. Nevertheless, there are no hopeless situations; we will resolve issues gradually.
Preparation
During the work we will need some tools and devices. First of all, this is, of course, a soldering iron and consumables for soldering. Any tool is used during the work; power in this case is not important.
A different approach is needed to consumables. Thus, POS-61 solder, 1 mm in diameter, purchased not so long ago, turned out to be unsuitable for soldering. During work, the hardened metal became grainy and dull. I had to use POS-40 from old stocks. So you should be careful when choosing solder.
The second consumable needed for soldering is rosin or flux. I use rosin, the reason is that flux is an acid which will eventually break down the bond. For the same reason, I do not recommend using aspirin tablets as a flux, as some Internet gurus advise.
It is better to solder on a wooden surface, since metal or glass takes away heat, which is critical when working with a soldering iron.
Recommendations: How to disassemble headphones: instructions with step-by-step photos of repairing all elements of the headset, Wiring out headphones, Making simple headphones and a headset with a microphone yourself
In our work we will need:
- A sharp knife, a mounting knife or an electrician's knife, is not so important. It is needed to remove insulation.
- Sandpaper for cleaning the contact area and heat-shrink tube, 4-5 mm in diameter.
- Don't forget about pliers or duckbill pliers, they are needed to hold the parts while soldering.
Soldering
To begin, use wire cutters or a knife on the platform to cut off the plug housing from the headphone wire. You can immediately strip the ends of the wires and burn the metal to remove the varnish.
The headphone plug itself is enclosed in a monolithic housing. However, to work with it you will have to remove the plastic or rubber-like material. You only need a sharp knife; in this case, a mounting knife is used, since for me it is most convenient to use. Using a knife, carefully cut the plug body along the pressing seam.
Then we manually remove any remaining rubber or plastic from the plug body. At this time, pay attention to the location of the wires, they usually differ in color, so remember or make a diagram of the location. In order to know in the future which wire to solder into which socket. The best option would be a drawn approximate diagram.
Next, we strip the ends of the headphone wires from insulation. We burn their ends - this will get rid of the varnish, or we lightly go through them with sandpaper. The photo shows a cleaned and ready-to-use plug and prepared wires. The left one is in green insulation, the right one is in red. White and black are common, they fit into the same slot, for this reason they are twisted.
After preparation, in order to make it easier to solder them, we tin them. The tinning process is simple. Having dipped the wire in rosin or applied flux, use a soldering iron to apply a thin layer of solder to the metal surface. The surface of the wire becomes silvery.
The ends of the wire in the photo are somewhat long; later I had to trim them a little, leaving the ends of about 5 mm.
Next, before soldering, we need to think about the plug body, since the original one is cut and removed. Therefore, we first put a piece of heat-shrink tubing on the headphone wire, which will act as a rigid insulator for the wire at the plug, and a conical tip from a ballpoint pen with a narrow edge cut off. We check how everything fits in and sits in place. Before soldering, place the heat shrink tube and cone on the headphone wire.
Next we proceed to soldering. We take a little solder onto the soldering iron tip, dip it in rosin and quickly transfer it to the soldering site. It is important to take exactly the right amount of solder. When solidified, the solder itself should be silver in color with a slight gloss, and the connection should be strong enough.
After soldering, we check the functionality of the headphones. Do not forget that after work the plug is still hot, you do not need to pick it up immediately after using the soldering iron. You can check the operation of the headphones either by testing the wires or by simply plugging unfinished headphones into the jack of your phone or player. If everything works, then we proceed to designing the plug housing; if not, we check the contacts again.
The connection itself looks something like this, but it’s still better to smooth out the protrusions. After checking, if everything works, slide the heat-shrink tube onto the plug. Then we warm it up with a hairdryer or the flame of an ordinary candle, as in my case. It looks a little scary, but I think it will be quite fixable in the future. After the insulator is seated in place, we move the cone of the pen forward to the desired position.
In order to fix our fasteners and fill the void in the cone, you can use epoxy resin or, as in my case, a mixture of soda and Cosmofen cyanoacrylate glue.
It is worth considering that this mixture hardens extremely quickly, so you need to work with it quickly and carefully. After this we rub the upper joint with sandpaper and the entire plug is ready.
About pinout
How to connect broken headphone wires
Depending on the type of headphones, a certain number of wires are connected to the plug:
- mono headphones – 2 wires;
- stereo headphones, 3 wires, mono headphones with a common wire are less common;
- stereo headphones with 4 wires, 2 common, in one socket;
- headset, 5-6 wires, additional for microphone.
If 2-4 wires usually do not present any difficulties, then with a large number of wires you need to carefully and carefully open the plug housing in order to know which wire to solder into which socket.
The second option, in this case, is to test the channels using a device, or determine the type of connection by the color of the wires. There is still no uniform standard for the color of wire insulation.
DIY headphone repair
A common variant of distribution by insulation color:
- red – right channel;
- green or blue – left channel;
- colorless, yellow – common wire.
But again, there is no standard for distribution of insulation color.
The headset has one or two additional wires for the microphone, soldering according to the diagram will not be a problem, the diagram itself is worth looking at either when disassembling the plug fastener, or calling the device. If the number of wires is 6 or more, and this is also sometimes found on headsets, you will have to call all the wires one by one and determine which wire goes where.
Thus, repairing the plug on the headphones is a solvable task, and also requires a minimum of costs if you know how to work with a soldering iron.
Topic materials: 5 best headphones under 1000 rubles, 5 best stereo headphones, If water gets on the headphones or inside the mobile phone connector, How to protect the headphones from mechanical damage and strengthen the wire, How to connect wireless headphones to the phone, How to properly warm up the headphones and is it necessary do , How to fix headphones yourself if one stops working , No sound in headphones , Headphone pinout
Source: https://TopNaushniki.ru/sovety/kak-pripayat-shteker-naushnikov