How to sharpen a chain for an electric saw

How to sharpen a chain for a chainsaw and electric saw?

Symptoms of a dull chain.

Diagnostics of chain wear

The chain is considered worn if the tensioner does not provide the required chain tension (the chain is “stretched”).

A prerequisite is to use a sharp chain - never use dull chains! We recommend that you learn how to properly sharpen a chain. The chain must always be sharpened.

Then sawing will be carried out efficiently, safely and accurately.

Professional loggers know that a sharp chain is more important than a strong engine.

How often should you sharpen your chain? There are no exact standards for the timing of chain sharpening - a professional sharpens the chain several times a day as it becomes dull. It depends on how often you use the saw, and when you feel like your sawing is going slower, it's time to sharpen your chain. If the tire “leads”, the chain also needs to be sharpened.

The chips are a good indication of the condition of the saw chain.

With a well-sharpened (sharp) chain, the shavings will be uniform and the sawdust will be approximately square in shape;
when the chain is sharpened, there will be a lot of dust in the shavings, and the sawdust will resemble needles, like from a hand saw.

Chain sharpening equipment

Sharpening of chains should be entrusted to a chain sharpening specialist if you do not have a sharpening machine and certain skills to work on it. To straighten the chain at home, use a cylindrical file of the appropriate diameter.

The process for straightening saw chains is described below. For sharpening you will need a round file, a flat file and a combination template that is suitable for your saw. A vice will also make your work easier.

Clamp the saw bar in a vise and you will have both hands free.

Mechanics of sawing. How does a chain saw cut?

First, a little theory. Each link acts like a miniature plane. The efficiency of sawing is determined by the difference in height of the cutting tooth and the stop tooth.

The difference in height determines how deeply the tooth will cut into the wood. The stop tooth should be 0.5-0.8 mm below the cutting tooth.

Chain saw cutting teeth. Sharpening them

First, sharpen the cutting teeth. Place a sharpening template on the chain.

The arrows on the template should point in the direction the chain is moving.

Sharpen with a light and measured movement, pressing forward should be done at an angle to the saw bar. The angle of inclination can be different and depends on the chain pitch. Each tooth should receive the same amount of movement. Sharpen one tooth on the right and one on the left.

Tip: if you clamp the saw bar in a vice, it is easiest to sharpen every second tooth on one side first and then every second tooth on the other side.

The stage of sharpening a saw chain. Grinding the limiter tooth

The tire is one of the defining components of a saw set. The length of the bar affects the depth of cut: the longer it is, the larger the diameter of the trunk the chainsaw can handle. However, it should be taken into account that the length of the bar must be consistent with the power of the saw.

If the engine power is insufficient, you will have to make additional efforts when sawing, and this will inevitably lead to premature wear of the saw set and engine, as well as increased fuel consumption.

Grinding down the limiter tooth.

Apply a template for the stopper tooth and, using a flat file, grind down the stopper tooth to the level of the template. The template has two positions:

H or "hard" for hard wood, and S "soft" for soft wood.

Warning: If you sharpen the stop tooth without a template, you may file it too low. The chain will then “eat” a lot of wood, which increases the risk of kickback, increases vibration and impairs sawing accuracy.

Add-ons

All teeth should be sharpened to the same length. You need to focus on the length of the most dull tooth.

So, first measure the length of the “peak” of the dull tooth.
The angle between the side and the visor blade cannot be changed during sharpening. Although the “visor” is slightly inclined downwards, the angle should be 90°. Otherwise, sharpening will have no effect.

Since the internal hole of the tooth becomes wider as you sharpen it, make sure that the base of the tooth remains horizontal at all times.

The width of the hole does not affect the operation of the saw.

Each tooth has a depth limiter that regulates the depth of penetration of the saw tooth into the wood.

The distance between the “visor” of the tooth and the tip of the depth stop is 0.5-1.2 mm. It must remain unchanged.

The sharpening apparatus grinds the tooth and stop to the same thickness of material in one stroke. To maintain the original rounding of the depth stop hole, it must be corrected after every third grinding.

This is necessary so that the saw does not “stumble.”

Before buying a file, you need to clarify the size and parameters of the chain, because each saw requires a special file. The most popular sizes are ¼", 0.325", 3/8", 0.404". Only the right choice of file will allow you to get the optimal result.

The quality of your chainsaw is determined primarily by the saw chain, guide bar and drive sprocket. When carrying out sawing work, they all act as a single sawing apparatus and therefore they must be maintained as a single unit. With proper use and maintenance of the sawing apparatus (chain, bar and drive sprocket), it will provide the best sawing results. With any chainsaw, it’s not the motor that cuts, it’s the sawing apparatus that cuts.

Basic rules, the implementation of which will allow you to feel the joy of superiority over wood of any hardness when sawing it

Rule #1. Never use a new chain with an old drive sprocket or an old chain with a new drive sprocket.

Take one new drive sprocket and two new chains and, by rotating replacements during operation, achieve their simultaneous wear. Replace the drive sprocket with a new one after every two chains wear out.

Rule #2. Each new chain must be run-in before use.

1. Having installed a new chain on a chainsaw with a new sprocket, start the saw engine and, before cutting, drive the chain at low and medium speeds for 30-60 seconds so that the chain lubricating oil can reach all lubricated parts of the chain and bar, so that the chain and sprocket warm up well and “work in” to each other.

2. Stop the engine and check the chain tension. You will see that the chain has slightly stretched and sagged. This is normal.

3. Allow the chain to cool.

4. Pull the chain.

5. Make several cuts using gentle force.

6. Check chain tension. If necessary, adjust the chain tension after allowing it to cool.

7. Add oil to the chain and bar lubrication system after making these cuts.

Rule #3. The chain must always be tensioned.

Chain tension is especially important when felling trees when the saw is tilted on its side. A loose chain may slip off the bar, causing operator injury.

Weak chain tension is the main cause of drive sprocket damage.

Chain tension.

Note: Never tighten the chain immediately after cutting. A chain that is tensioned while hot may shrink when cooling and will be overtightened, which will lead to premature failure of the sawing apparatus.

1. Allow the chain to cool.

2. Loosen the bar nuts on the side of your saw.

3. Pull the tire up by the nose and hold it there while adjusting the tension.

4. Tighten the chain tension bolt on the saw until the loosest connecting and cutting links are lifted and pressed tightly against the lower guide surfaces of the bar. Grasp the chain at the bottom of the bar between the toe and the attachment point, pull it down and release. The chain should pull back about 4 mm, then spring back and return to its previous position, pressed tightly against the bottom of the tire.

5. While pulling the tire nose up, tighten the rear tire nut first, then the front.

6. Pull the chain by hand along the top surface of the bar from the engine to the nose several times. The chain should fit snugly to the bar. But, nevertheless, it stretches freely.

7. Systematically check the chain tension during operation, especially in the first half hour.

If the chain is loose, stop working, let the chain cool and tighten it.

Rule #4. The chain must be well lubricated.

A constant supply of oil to the guide bar, chain and drive sprocket is vital. Using the sawing machine without lubrication or using oils such as hydraulic, transformer, internal combustion engine oil or so-called “working off” oils to lubricate the chain and bar leads to premature failure of the sawing machine, especially the saw chain and bar.

Remember that at maximum engine speed of a chainsaw, the chain reaches a speed of 80-100 km/h and oils that are not recommended by us, but are often used by users of chainsaws (hydraulic, transformer, oil for internal combustion engines, “working off”, etc.

) “fly off” under the influence of high speed of the chain from the toe of the bar and the lubricant does not get to the lower, working part of the tire, nose sprocket and drive sprocket, which leads to premature failure of the sawing apparatus (the chain is pulled out, the guide rails of the tires are destroyed, it fails tire nose sprocket).

We recommend that all users of chainsaws, electric saws, harvesters, and other machines and units that use saw chains and bars use Oregon, Husqvarna, Stihl, Homelite oil specially designed and intended for this purpose to lubricate them.
A specially selected fluidity and viscosity formula in combination with special additives make this oil ideal for lubrication of sawing devices. Try it and you will see that the cheapness of “working out” only undermined your budget.

Rule #5. The chain must be well sharpened

The chain must be well sharpened.
Once sharpened, the chain will work well.

If it is not sharpened, dull, but used in work, this leads to premature failure of the sawing apparatus. The operator has to put additional force on the saw, put pressure on it, and this, in turn, can lead to stretching of the chain, its breakage, and failure of the guide bar.

In this case, the load on the saw motor unit also increases. Remember that you need to cut only with a sharpened chain, at maximum engine speed and without putting any force on the saw (do not press). The chain should bite into the wood itself and do its job.

If you have to put pressure on the saw or small sawdust flies from under the chain, then this is a clear sign that the chain is dull and needs to be sharpened.

How to properly sharpen a chain is discussed at the beginning of our article.

Rule #6. The cutting depth limiter must be adjusted and adjusted.

Check the adjustment of the cutting depth limiter after every 3-4 sharpenings of the chain. Remember that the adjustment and shape of the depth gauge is key to improving chain performance and operator safety.

The depth of cut on most Oregon chains is stamped with a number indicating, in thousandths of an inch, the maximum depth of cut adjustment.

To adjust the cutting depth limiter directly on the saw, you must first tension the chain (rule No. 3).

Place the gauge on top of the chain so that only one depth stop fits into the gauge slot.

If the depth gauge protrudes from the slot, file it down to the top base surface of the gauge with a flat file. Never grind down the depth stop to such an extent that the adjustment height exceeds the specified height for the chain.

Note. Never grind or reshape the tops of shock-absorbing connecting and driving links.

Following these tips will allow you to avoid many problems that arise during the process of sawing wood.

Source: https://dvplast.lred.ru/index.php/else/155-2010-06-17-04-05-55

How to sharpen a power saw chain with a file

The chainsaw is very convenient to work with. Despite the fact that the unit weighs 5–7 kilograms, or even more, when sawing a tree trunk into logs, you are simply amazed at how quickly it happens, and there is practically no fatigue. But then there comes a moment when the blade of the tool penetrates the wood more and more heavily. There is only one diagnosis - the saw is dull, so the chainsaw chain needs to be sharpened.

Those who encounter this for the first time are a little upset, because it is not clear whether to do it themselves or take the tool to specialists in a workshop. And what is the best sharpening method? But in fact, there is nothing wrong with this, and if you have the knowledge, you can easily sharpen chainsaw chains with your own hands. The correct strategy for resolving the issue in this case directly depends on the load on the unit.

If the chainsaw is used from time to time, several times a year, then buying a special sharpening machine or accessories may not make sense; it is easier to solve the problem by using the services of a service center. But if a chainsaw is a means of earning money or there is a desire to master the sharpening process yourself, then you should definitely purchase a sharpener or a machine and manually carry out this simple manipulation of the chain. Let's see below what the correct sharpening of a chainsaw chain is based on.

Signs of a dull chain and the consequences of further use

The difficulty of working with a dull chainsaw should not be confused with the difficulty of cutting hardwood or very dry logs. In all these cases, the speed of the operation is reduced, but the blunt instrument has a certain behavior - signs by which one can judge the need for sharpening:

• the chainsaw does not immediately bite into the tree trunk, as if grinding, moving away from the point of contact;
• when cutting soft rocks, the tool sluggishly penetrates the thickness of the wood, you have to put pressure on the bar;
• the shavings from large ones with characteristic oblong particles turn into small thyrsus, which very rarely crumble;
• the chain heats up quickly, an unpleasant smell of burning oil for lubricating the guide bar is heard.

In addition to these alarming signals, always after hitting metal nails, wires with a chain, or burying a chainsaw in the ground, you can be one hundred percent sure of the need for subsequent sharpening of the cutting edges.

What can happen to the instrument in the future if the problem is ignored? The most harmless thing is that it will be impossible to work with a chainsaw; in the end it will get boring and will force you to service the unit. But adherents of the saying “You don’t need intelligence to eat power” can come to the following conclusion:

• extra stress on the body, because, frankly speaking, you have to put pressure on the tool so that it cuts;
• excessive fuel consumption of up to 30%, which is explained by the need to go through a larger revolution cycle to achieve the same result;
• accelerated wear of the tire and other parts of the chainsaw.

In addition to all these negative consequences of a dull saw, there is a high probability of the chain jamming in the barrel and injury to the operator performing the work.

Sharpening angles and chainsaw tooth configuration

In order to be able to sharpen chains correctly, the first step is to understand what functional elements a single link, or cutting element, consists of:

1. The base is the lower part of the tooth, which has holes for connection with the remaining elements of the chain and during operation is hidden in the guide channel of the tire. It is this part that is lubricated.
2. A special limiter is a tooth design element that allows the cutter to remove only a certain thickness of wood chips in one pass. Thanks to it, the chain does not get stuck in the fibers and the chainsaw does not jam.
3. The so-called tooth blade is a cutter consisting of vertical and horizontal working surfaces that form cutting edges.

The tooth blades, or cutting edges, must be sharpened at a certain angle, otherwise it will be difficult to achieve optimal chain sawing performance. The upper blade (horizontal) performs the function of cutting the tooth into the wood and forming a groove. A side or end blade (vertical) helps trim the grain from the side.

The most important thing when sharpening a chainsaw is to achieve the correct angle of the upper blade, which should be between 60-50 degrees. The angle of the end blade is maintained within 85-60 degrees. It is also worth adhering to the angle in the plan (sharpening angle), namely, what is clearly visible when you look at the chain link from above - it extends from the side edge along the front line and should be 10-15 degrees.

The productivity of wood cutting operations in the transverse direction increases if you increase the sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain to the maximum possible and vice versa. Chains intended for longitudinal cutting of a tree trunk should be sharpened at an angle of approximately 10 degrees.

Under no circumstances should you touch the depth stop again: improper grinding can lead to vibration during operation of the tool. Its finishing is done according to a special template.

How is hand sharpening inferior to machine sharpening?

You can get the hang of it and sharpen a chainsaw chain by hand without much difficulty. But there are some nuances here, because first of all, it is not as effective as sharpening using a machine. The biggest disadvantages of the manual operation of sharpening chain cutting teeth are:

1. Difficulty maintaining the required angle. You don’t need to think that you can sharpen a chainsaw chain with just one round file; for this operation you will also need at least a special guide and a second flat file.
2. Low speed of operation. It is necessary to attach the guide to the tooth, manipulate it with a round file, check the compliance of the gap of the stopper, if it is necessary to correct it with a flat file, and only then proceed to the next tooth.
3. The need to gain experience. Despite the various aids for sharpening a chainsaw by hand, you first need to feel the process, and this requires some experience.

Stages of work when manually sharpening at home

You can sharpen chains at home using a special round file with a holder. To do this, follow the following steps of the operation:

1. The bar and chain are fixed using a vice so that its top line is in a horizontal position.
2. Take the shortest tooth as a starting point and mark it with a marker or nitro enamel.
3. The body of the round file is inserted under the main cutting edge, pressing it to the corner along the entire line and at the same time pressing the holder to the surface of the tooth. Thanks to the holder, the round file will automatically take the desired position, protruding in relation to the upper plane of the chainsaw tooth.
4. Using confident, even movements away from you, without changing the feed angle, run the file two or three times along the beveled surface of the upper cutting edge.
5. Rotate the file along its axis so that the abrasive surface does not develop, and repeat the operation until the tooth becomes sharpened.
6. After this, using a chain sharpening template, check the height of the stopper and, if necessary, grind it off with a flat file.
7. Then, after one tooth, the entire cycle of operations is repeated until they reach the initially marked tooth.
8. Turn the tire over to the opposite side and sharpen all the other teeth of the chainsaw through one.

Types of files and tips for choosing

As has already become clear, you need to select a file for sharpening the teeth of a chainsaw chain that has a round diameter and is flat. Many manufacturers of motorized tools of this specific type, for the convenience of consumers, simultaneously produce sharpening kits, where such files are already included in the kit. But here, too, it is important not to make a mistake: for a specific chain you need a file of a suitable diameter. Its value is determined based on the pitch of the chain teeth.

Following the rules, before choosing files for sharpening a chainsaw chain, its exact pitch is determined by the marking of the chain. The following recommendations are followed:

Step size File diameter, mm

0,25	2x2
0,325	2x2.4
0,375	2x2.6
0,404	2x2.75

There are saw chains where it is appropriate to use round files with a cross-sectional diameter of 2x1.6 millimeters.

With the correct selection of a tool for sharpening chainsaw teeth, its protrusion above the surface of the horizontal edge of the tooth during the process will not exceed 1/5 of its own diameter, which can be a guideline when selecting a file when the chain pitch cannot be determined.

Sharpening a chain using a grinder

In some cases, you can sharpen chainsaw chains with a grinder. This is relevant when there is no time for better sharpening with a file or there is no professional tool available for these purposes. We must immediately warn you that a chain treated with a grinder will not be perfectly sharpened; the angles are broken here, but the chainsaw will be able to perform its task.

Source: https://vi-pole.ru/kak-zatochit-cep-jelektropily-napilnikom.html

Sharpen teeth or buy a new chain for your electric saw? | Electrician in the apartment, repair of household electrical appliances

How long does a regular hacksaw or two-handed “friendship” saw last without setting the teeth? For some, for years, for others, six months after purchase - “at least throw it away.” About the same thing happens with a chain for an electric saw.

If with a hand tool everything is clear, since even with a completely chipped tooth the saw can be reanimated, then with an electric saw this problem does not work: the speed of work and the force applied to the cutting site are much higher.

Because of one eaten tooth in one or two approaches to the tool, the entire chain fails.

The saw chain is the most loaded element of the electric saw, so the design provides for the possibility of replacing it. The ideal option is to purchase a product from the same manufacturer and the same dimensions, including the pitch of the teeth and their sharpening angle, that is, a complete analogue of the “native” one, but sometimes this problem cannot be solved: you need to work now, but the search may drag on for a month. You have to make a choice from what is available in the nearest market, or place an order via the Internet.

How to choose a saw chain for an electric saw

For an existing electric saw, a replacement chain is selected based on three main characteristics: pitch, thickness and length. Unfortunately, there are no tables of interchangeability of chains from different manufacturers; it remains to be understanding about each parameter.

The traditional definition of chain pitch is in inches, but since there are only three standard sizes for a power saw, they are not so difficult to remember: 1/4″, 0.325″ and 0.375″ (3/8″). More serious sizes 0.404″ and 3/4″ are designed for professional chainsaws; the power of the electric unit (plus or minus 2 kW) will not be enough to get a normal cut.

Thickness matters because the saw element is guided by a bar in which a groove is provided. Here the dimensions are simpler: 1.1 mm, 1.3 mm and 1.5 mm are variations in the width of the groove.

The length of the chain itself is rarely indicated in the accompanying documentation. The bar size is often indicated in centimeters or inches; for an electric saw, the maximum bar length is 45 cm (18″).

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But a chain selected solely by the length of the bar (with other suitable parameters) not from the manufacturer of the saw itself may not be suitable due to the fact that the number of drive links will not correspond to the size of the sprocket that sets the movement.

If the documentation for an electric saw indicates the number of links, this parameter should not be neglected; it is more important than the pitch of the teeth, which affects the quality of the cut (even or “it will do”) and performance, which is not important for an amateur. If the documents are lost, no one can stop you from counting the number of drive links manually and remembering them.

Is it worth sharpening your saw chain yourself?

When an electric saw is used occasionally, for your own needs, for example, to trim trees, prepare firewood for a bathhouse, repair a fence, gazebo or bench, it is irrational to fool around with its repair. Moreover, most often budget versions of electric saws are in use, and replacing a chain when the cutting edges of the teeth have worn out or “caught a nail” is a common and not very expensive thing. In financial terms, this will cost from 400 to 700 rubles.

But a real owner, who is used to doing everything himself and treating the existing tool with care, can very well extend the life of the chain by starting to restore it.

In the long term, this is economically beneficial, but in the short term it makes almost no sense, since decent quality cannot be achieved with one or more files without a special device, and it will take a lot of time.

A set of tools for almost professional sharpening of teeth (flat and round files, caliber, mandrel), which can be ordered or purchased either selectively or as a set, will cost about 1,000 rubles (vises are not included).

The cost of a manual device for sharpening saw chains for an electric saw or chainsaw starts from 1.5 thousand rubles, a machine with an electric drive – from 2.5 thousand rubles. The owner of the equipment will quickly justify the costs if he starts sharpening for friends and neighbors (not for free). In service centers, sharpening is expensive, about 100 rubles. for a bit, but with budget products, as a rule, they don’t go there.

When is it time to sharpen, and when is it better to change?

The easiest way to determine that the teeth are dull is by their appearance, and a change in the nature of the sawdust can be a reason to pay attention to them. Small pieces of wood, quite light in color, fall out from under the new electric saw. Over time, their size decreases to a dusty state and their color becomes darker. If these signs are completely ignored, even the smell of burnt wood may appear.

If you don’t want to buy a new saw, you need to monitor the condition of the saw chain.

Even if the owner himself cares for all components of the electric saw, it is a good idea to have a spare chain. For example, there is no time for sharpening, and work does not wait. The ideal solution is to immediately, along with purchasing the tool, buy a spare part similar to the installed one, but how many of us think about this? However, it is never too late to correct a mistake: you need to be prepared for the fact that after 6-8 sharpenings the teeth will not be restored. Just like urgently purchasing a replacement.

Source: https://elektrikdom.com/jelektroinstrument/tochit-zubja-ili-pokupat-novuju-cep-dlja-jelektropily/

How to Sharpen a Makita Electric Saw Chain with Your Own Hands

Do-it-yourself chain sharpening of a chainsaw (electric saw)

Having bought a chainsaw once, you don’t need to think that it always works as well as on your first day. The initial apparent ease of processing wood may disappear over time. An inexperienced saw owner may not immediately realize or not see that the saw has become dull.

Ultimately, this no longer leads to sharpening the chainsaw chain for preventive purposes, but to restoring it in special service centers, using machines for sharpening the chain, or even worse, to replacing it with a new one. In this same article, we wanted to talk specifically about timely maintenance and chain sharpening .

When, how and with what help it is necessary to carry out such procedures so that you can saw without problems, and your saw can work efficiently and for a long time.

How to extend the period from sharpening to sharpening a chainsaw

Maybe now we will utter common truths, but some people neglect them, apparently in the hope that everything will work out without it, according to the phrase of the hero of the famous cartoon “Vovka in the Thirtieth Kingdom.” “Oh, that’ll do.”

Under no circumstances should you cut with a saw if there are foreign objects in the wood or board, first of all, nails that have not been removed, or a metal strip. Once you “drive” over a normal nail, you will, of course, even saw it through, but after that, take a look at the cutting edges of the chainsaw chain, because sometimes this is an irreparable defect, with chips and plastic deformation of the teeth.

In such cases, a hand chain sharpening tool may not always help. Before starting work, check the saw area for the absence of any foreign objects; the wood must be clean, preferably dry, although this will depend on how it turns out. You should not cut on the ground without placing something under the cut.

In this case, after cutting you will have to go deeper into the ground, and this is oh, how undesirable for your chain. Earth, sand, stones, all this can also quickly and irrevocably damage the chain of your chainsaw, forcing you to start sharpening it after one or two uses of the new chain.

Make sure that the saw does not “bite” while cutting, so as not to overheat the metal and the blade of the saw. Monitor the chain lubrication and the oil level in the tank. As a result, as you understand, the chainsaw, which seems to be such an “invincible” hand tool, itself needs protection if you want accurate, timely and efficient work from it.

Signs that a chainsaw (power saw) chain needs to be sharpened

Having briefly outlined our thoughts in the previous paragraph about what not to do so as not to start sharpening immediately after 5 minutes of working with the saw, in this paragraph we will talk about the signs of a dull chain, that is, when the time for sharpening has already come, it doesn’t matter how long have you worked? Pay attention to the saw shavings. So, with a blunt chain, it will be smaller, in some cases not light, but slightly darker than usual.

Everything is explained very simply, dull edges cannot remove the proper cutting layer, which leads to shredding, and high speeds without proper heat removal, along with the chips, overheat the wood, causing it to burn and darken.

And of course, the main signs indicating the need for sharpening is a direct visual inspection of the chain.

There should be no radii on the cutting edges, there should be no damage in the form of tears or changes in the shape of the tooth and cutting edge of the chain.

Otherwise, the chain must be sharpened.

Sharpening a chain on an electric sawHOW it's done

HOW to sharpen a chain on an electric saw using a STURM sharpening machine.

Sharpening chainsaws and electric saws. How to easily sharpen a chain

As it turns out, sharpening a saw chain is quite a simple and quick task. All you need is a thin round file.

Negative consequences in case of untimely sharpening of a chainsaw chain

If you continue to saw, despite the fact that the chain is dull, then this will primarily affect your productivity and possibly your nervous system, which does not accept such ordeal. This will also affect the service life of the electric or chainsaw, due to the fact that the engine will overheat.

Increased consumption of gasoline and electricity. It will also be reflected in the shank, which the saw will go through much more times in order to cut the same thickness, compared to a sharpened chain.

The chain may get into such a state that it will have to be adjusted by a machine in a specialized center, or worse, replaced, we have already talked about all this

The process of sharpening a chainsaw chain with your own hands

Sharpening a chain means having a special tool, even for manual sharpening. In fact, this is a set that can be purchased in stores. It consists of a set of two files (round, flat), a mandrel and a gauge. Sometimes it is supplemented with a hook for removing chips from the slots of the chain. One of the files, round, is combined with the mandrel. The flat file and gauge are used on their own, separately.

The chain is sharpened directly on the saw blade. The mandrel is placed on the edge of the cutting tooth, taking into account the chamfer sharpening angle. The sharpening angle is usually 30 degrees or 10.

The most difficult thing about manual editing and sharpening is maintaining this very angle. Here you need to have some practice and feel the direction of sharpening in order to precisely correct the direction of movement of the round file, and not sharpen your own angle.

Also, when sharpening, you should pay attention that the movement of the file should be in a perpendicular plane relative to the saw blade. The main difficulty of manual sharpening is that all angles must be maintained manually, which will require proper dexterity and experience from you.

The file itself should protrude slightly above the tooth when sharpening it.
Sharpening is carried out in one direction, that is, only in a translational motion, and not in a reciprocating motion. Next, after sharpening the first tooth, we turn the chain on the shank and similarly proceed to sharpening the second, then the next one, etc.

After you have “walked” along all the cutting edges of the teeth, it’s the turn of the cut stops. In fact, these are protrusions on chains that do not have cutting edges. The limiters are located on the same plate with the tooth. Their main task is to limit the cutting depth.

If they protrude too much, the chain will slide rather than cut. If they are too deep, the saw will “bite” in the wood.

To adjust the cut stops, you need to take a gauge and apply it also to the edges of the cutting teeth. The end plate with the slot should be exactly at the level of the limiter. If the limiter protrudes from the caliber, then it should be trimmed to size. The stops are leveled with a regular flat file, and also work with the file in a plane perpendicular to the saw blade and in one direction.

Sharpening a chainsaw chain in specialized centers, on a machine (features and cost)

If your chain is in a very poor condition or you feel that you are not able to sharpen it yourself, then contact a specialized center, or purchase a chain sharpening machine that minimizes the influence of the human factor when sharpening the chain.

In this case, the chain is removed from the bar and installed on the machine guide. Next, it is tensioned by a roller and a ratchet holding it by the cutting tooth. The sharpening angle is set according to the protractor on the machine. Next, the abrasive wheel is lowered and literally a few tenths of a mm are removed, that is, the chain is straightened and sharpened.

Next, the chain is moved to the next tooth, etc.

Such sharpening makes it possible to meet higher requirements for the size of the cutting part of the chain and its shape. The disadvantage is also obvious that here you will have to buy an expensive machine, which is not always advisable for one-time sharpening of a chainsaw chain.

The cost of such a procedure in service centers will be about 3-5 dollars, but the machine itself can cost several thousand rubles.

An alternative option for a private owner would be to use a manual machine; it is somewhat cheaper than an electric one, but the processing speed will be somewhat lower, although the accuracy is comparable to the machines used in the service.

Now knowing about all the alternatives when sharpening a chain, you yourself can choose what seems to be the most suitable option.

Source: https://auramm.ru/kak-zatochit-cep-jelektropily-makita-svoimi-rukami/

How to Sharpen a Electric Saw Chain with Your Own Hands

Dull chain saw chain

Proper operation and maintenance have a significant impact on the quality and performance of the tool. For comfortable work, you need to sharpen chain saw chain the tied chain to a specialist or sharpen it yourself, especially since the whole process is not particularly complicated. You just need to acquire a certain skill, since the teeth on it have an unusual shape.

When to grind and how to find out

Problems that may arise due to untimely maintenance of the circuit:

• crooked saws;
• huge pressure;
• increased fuel consumption;
• faster wear of the leading parts of the chain saw and a reduction in its service life.

The rate at which teeth become dull depends on the frequency of the instrument and the conditions. It only takes a couple of times to get caught on the ground or rocks and you'll be grinding your chain chain.

Signs you can use to tell if a chain is dull:

• the instrument tries to escape from your hands and gets stuck;
• Fragile chips, almost dust;
• The saw goes deeper only with great effort;
• increases cutting time.

In addition, dull teeth can be easily examined. Even the naked eye will show signs of dullness.

The earlier a chainsaw chain is sharpened, the less contaminated the metal is, which means it can last longer.

How and how to sharpen chain teeth

Chain teeth for saws have a non-standard shape. They consist of a base, a blade and a depth gauge. The blade has a vertical blade and a horizontal blade that tilts at an angle. These blades allow the chainsaw to cut wood. They work on the principle of plane, razor parts, and the limiter regulates their thickness (the difference in height between it and the horizontal blade, and there will be the thickness of the chips). Chainsaw chains can be sharpened by hand or by machine.

Sharpening kits

One of the most common methods is a set of round and flat files, a holder, a template for the limiter, and a hook used to remove sawdust. For correct positioning of the holder, special markings are installed on it, allowing you to determine the correct angle for sharpening.

It is mounted on top of the tooth and stop, and the round file remains underneath and lies next to the blade. Thanks to the holder, the file is at the correct height, or more precisely, 1/5 protrudes above the blade.

For sharpening cutting teeth, only round files are used, since the contour of the tooth is rounded.

How to sharpen chainsaws by hand without removing the tires from the round file. Stihl. own hands

Many people don't know how to sharpen teeth on chain , and it's quite simple. round file 4.8 mm and that's it.

How to sharpen a chainsaw yourself

It is quite possible to sharpen an electric saw , which will save you money and time.

Kits must be purchased based on the chain pitch size. You cannot use the same set to sharpen different chains.

Before you start sharpening chainsaw chains at home, the bar should be secured in a vice or clamp, the main thing is that the saw does not move during sharpening. Having installed the holder in accordance with the markings, start smoothly and without pressing too much, move the file strictly out of yourself 2-3 times.

Similar actions are repeated with all other teeth. The file should be rotated from time to time to avoid one-sided wear. The pressure and number of movements must be the same for everyone; this is necessary to sharpen all teeth.

If they are different, the chain may develop cracks, causing it to break.

It was more convenient to work by first sharpening the teeth on one side, and after that the saw turns over and the teeth are aligned on the other.

To sharpen, start with the smallest tooth so that all the others are the same length. After finishing the blade work, move on to the stops. At the top of the chain, install the template from the kit in such a position that the stop is in the hole. The protruding part is stitched with a flat file.

Source: https://nzizn.ru/kak-zatochit-cep-jelektropily-svoimi-rukami-video/

How to sharpen a chain saw

» Articles » Repair » Repair

Good afternoon friends. We will devote this video to saw chains of petrol and electric saws. 4 or 5 times we sharpened the chain at the Petrovichs and Mikhalychs, i.e. from the local Kulibins. After which they successfully turned our beauty into such a stub. It became a little offensive, and they began to figure it out themselves. We watched a bunch of videos, read articles and realized that the truth had to be literally picked out from this pile. First, about the circuit design. Like a regular one, it consists of links. One link, two links, three links. Each has two rivets. The most convenient way is to count the rivets and divide them in half. We had 104 rivets, which means 52 links. The saw has 2 sprockets - one driving and one driven at the end of the bar. For the chain to move normally, it must match their pitch. Chain pitch is the distance between any first and any third rivet, divided in half. For more accurate measurements, you can expand the range. We have approximately 9.5 mm, which means the standard is 3\8″. The chain slides along the bar. There is a groove in the tire for this. And the chain has an element - a shank, which fits into this groove. Of course, they must match in size. But but but. Our tire did not have a groove size. We tried it on. About 1.5 mm. This means the shank should have either 1.3 or 1.5. And the length of the chain must also match the tire. The tricky thing here is that for some reason the tire size is approximately this distance. We measured it - 35 cm, or 14″. To our great joy, we found confirmation on the casing. That's it, you can buy a new chain. We bought Husvarna rubles for 600. Tire 14″ pitch 3\8″ shank 1.3 mm 52 links. Everything is like in a pharmacy. I couldn’t bear to wait for filming, so we immediately tested the new chain in action. No questions. Now, let's remove the dirty one. The saw chain has cutting teeth. Some are left-leaning, others are right-leaning. They go through one. This and much more of the chain is done to reduce vibration. Here is an element called a cutting depth limiter. The lower it is below the cutter, the deeper it cuts. (For amateur saws, this gap is somewhere from half to one mm. For professionals, it can be larger.) The tooth has two cutting edges - a working horizontal one and a lateral vertical one. One of the main parameters is the working angle, or angle of attack. (The teeth for sawing across the grain and along are very different. For a saw across the grain, the angle is from 25 to 35 degrees. For longitudinal - from 5 to 15 degrees.) Here are the basic standards for chain pitch and shank thickness. The question is why in the step size they use either decimal values ​​or fractions. We answer - exclusively, so that it would be easier to distinguish them and not be confused. It's time to sharpen. This is where the Kulibins make a rustling sound and use whatever they can to sharpen them. Let's figure it out. The cutting tooth is made of special steel that has undergone heat treatment. This means that it cannot be overheated. It turns out that when sharpening with an emery wheel, as in conventional metalworking, the processing area needs to be cooled, for example with water. Nobody does this. Go ahead. In the same Husvarna, Shtil, etc. Scientists and engineers are sitting there, they think, testing these chains of theirs for years. Find the ideal sharpening geometry for each chain. Then we come and do our geometry. We don't give a damn about these capitalists. We show you - here is the factory sharpening. We had a sharpening machine. To give a greater degree of freedom, we removed the head part. And even with all the freedoms, it is completely unrealistic to get here with an emery wheel while maintaining the geometry of the tooth. And if the machine is assembled, there is nothing to do there at all. Of course, among a thousand sharpeners there will be one left-handed, self-taught person who won’t overheat a tooth with a grinder and will maintain the geometry. But he has to perform for money in the circus or at the Olympics, and we are simple people, many have not held a grinder in their hands. Please note that all branded rollers are sharpened exclusively with files using guides. Scientists are respected. We take an even closer look at the packaging of the chain. There is no hint of either the sharpening angle or the diameter of the file. And the Internet does not respond to all local numbers. Clearly, the machinations of the CIA. We take the reference table from the smart article. For the shank we need a file of 4 mm, for a pitch of 5.2 mm, according to the seller of files 4.8 mm and let's get ahead a little - according to our subsequent measurements it would be better to take 3.2. We trusted the seller and took a package of 4.8 for 70 rubles each. We secured the saw; it would have been better to put the tire in a vice, but it wasn’t at hand. We begin to insert the file. Well, you get the idea. The country of the Soviets lives and wins. In the same clever article we find this drawing. You see the ratio. This is more like the truth. Let's get ahead of ourselves again - they called Shtil later. Their smallest diameter is 4 mm. We've arrived. But, nevertheless, the idea is clear - using rods, pencils, nails, you select the ideal diameter for yourself and then buy the right files. There's nothing to do, let's show this. According to the instructions, or by eye, determine the angle of the factory sharpening. We are working. You see how the file moves, and with it the sharpening angle. This is not sharpening - this is squalor. Capitalists use guides. Here are their examples. In my deep conviction, such devices will not save, at least a young fighter, from file wobbling. And it’s a pity to occupy two hands. Yes, and you need to buy it first. But this option is already closer to the truth, only we will offer it 100 times simpler and several times more accurate. We go to the barn, find a thin rod, connect it to the file with simple electrical tape. We take a beam and attach a piece of iron to it. We make a mark on the tire. Every right Tooth should be here. We set the correct sharpening angle and drill a hole in the right place. The right teeth have run out, we set the angle again, changing the position of the beam or tooth. We sharpen the left ones. That's it. This device is more accurate than all the previous ones combined. Because the further the support, the smaller the angle of deflection. Geometry. Every man with his hands, even on the basis of his own barn, can improve this design ad infinitum. But his hands are not official ones either. We mechanize. One of the ideas we looked at was, of course, a jigsaw. There is no need to change anything in the design. The option with a drill or screwdriver is not so bad. But then you need to connect the file and the rod through a tube. A similar structure can be built in the forest. But there is a significant problem here. If the teeth are too hard and the file is weak, then the tooth will sharpen the file, and not vice versa. Therefore, when buying a combination of chain and file, you need to use your maximum intelligence. Another option we looked at is a diamond-coated file. But additional tests are needed here. And one last thing. When sharpening, the height of the cutting tooth decreases; the depth stop must also be filed down. This is where a simple cutting template will be useful. Of course, there are chains that you can get to with a machine. Their teeth have a special geometry, and they themselves are designed for longitudinal cutting. Discussion So how to properly sharpen a saw chain? There are many opinions and methods. Some of them are true, others simply don't work. So in our case, we bought the right 4.0 file and the sharpening went like a charm. There are wealthy saw owners who buy a couple of spare chains at once and change them, I have also met professionals who sharpen the chain perfectly without any tools. But they don’t need our considerations. We tried to offer a method that is easy and cheap to implement and that will prevent an “amateur” from damaging the chain. What do you think? We are waiting for business comments. We recommend viewing Personally, in this video I liked the explanation about the control notches that are made in order to indicate the limit of tooth grinding. After all, grinding further is simply dangerous!

Source: http://www.video-sovety.ru/publ/remont/remont/kak_zatochit_cepnuju_pilu/29-1-0-334

Chains for electric saws: how to select, sharpen and install back

The bar and chain are the working “duet” of an electric saw, responsible for the efficiency and accuracy of cutting wood. The modern market is literally overflowing with all sorts of models of tires and chains that are suitable for certain purposes. How to choose the right parts from the entire range presented? Let's answer this and other questions together.

How to choose the right chain for a power saw - let's look at the details

In terms of its importance, the chain is often ranked by experts on a par with the electric saw engine. Therefore, if you want to choose a suitable saw element, you should approach its choice with special responsibility. To select a chain for a power saw, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

• Compatibility with an electric saw - in other words, you should choose a part that was released by the manufacturer of the tool itself. In this case, the risk of making a mistake and purchasing an unsuitable saw element is reduced to zero;
• Decide on the tasks of the chain - if you are looking for a high-performance saw element, then choose a part with a 3/8-inch pitch. If the electric saw is used only for solving simple household tasks, then the optimal purchase would be a saw element whose chain pitch is 0.325 inches;
• Sharpening angle - this parameter is important for further repair, maintenance and restoration of the saw element. More productive chains have a sharpening angle of 30 ° - such sawing elements can more easily withstand high loads. However, for the purpose of complex processing of wood - if it is frozen or damp - you should stick to a chain with a sharpening angle of 10 °;
• The length of the saw element must correspond to the length of the electric saw bar. Even if the chain stretches and sag over time, this problem can be solved by removing a few links.

In addition to these parameters, you should take into account the cutting method and the material that can be processed. Be sure to keep in mind that for the purpose of longitudinal cutting, a chain with a small sharpening angle will be optimal. The performance of such a chain will be slightly less, but its service life will increase significantly.

Features of choosing a tire for an electric saw

When buying a tire, the first thing you should pay attention to is the material from which it is made. If it is strong enough and reliable, then the part will serve for a long time and properly. In addition to the material, when choosing a tire you need to study the following parameters:

• Shank - with its help you can determine whether the tire matches your model of electric saw. It's all about the location of the tensioners of the electric saw and the holes for supplying oil to the chain. Most well-known brands produce branded shanks for their models of electric saws. In this case, shanks from different companies can replace each other;
• Groove width – in today’s market you can choose tires whose groove width is 1.1 and 1.3 mm for low-power household electric saws, as well as 1.5 and 1.6 mm for more powerful models of electric saws;
• The length of the electric saw bar is one of the most important parameters when choosing a part. To determine the length of the electric saw bar, you will need to measure the distance between the extreme point of the bar toe and the toothed stop. Most often it is 12–20 inches - it all depends on the model of the electric saw. The longer the chosen tire, the larger the tree you can cut down.

A correctly selected and compatible bar, chain and electric saw will allow you to work efficiently and calmly without wasting money and time.

How to properly put a chain on a power saw - a detailed algorithm

Having chosen a saw element for your tool, you probably thought about how to install a chain on an electric saw with your own hands. In fact, there is nothing complicated in this procedure. All that is required of you is to carefully study the specified algorithm and follow it when working.

To install the chain on the electric saw, you need to proceed in this order:

• First you need to move the protective shield, while lowering the brake lever;
• Next, use a screwdriver to turn the tensioner and unscrew the nut. This way you will loosen the tension on the old chain;
• Remove the cover and separate the bar with chain from the sprocket;
• Then remove the old chain and install a new saw element in its place;
• After this, install the bar on the electric saw and adjust the chain tension using the screw. Try to tension the new chain smoothly, without jerking.

Some modern electric saws are equipped with special wing nuts to quickly tension the chain. To install a new chain on such a power saw you must:

1. Lower the brake lever and unscrew the nut;
2. Remove the cover and move the tire back a little;
3. Remove the old chain and install a new saw element. In this case, the new chain is mounted first on the dismantled sprocket, and then along the entire length of the tire;
4. After this, the sprocket must be put in place and the nut must be tightened.

At the end, all that remains is to turn the tension wheel in the direction shown by the arrow on the body and tighten the thumb all the way.

How to sharpen an electric saw chain with your own hands?

Many craftsmen sharpen the chain of an electric saw at the first signs of wear on its cutting teeth. However, it is not possible to use any specific tool for this procedure. To work, you need to stock up on a whole set of special equipment. To do this you will need:

• Flat file – it is needed to adjust the depth stop;
• A round file having reference lines;
• Caliber;
• Mandrel – it will help in determining the angle.

To sharpen the chain of an electric saw, the saw element should be left on the bar. In this case, the tire must be securely fixed in a vice. The diameter of the file used must correspond to the diameter of the chain teeth.

When using a round file, be sure to ensure that it extends no more than 1/5 of its length above the chain teeth. The first tooth of the chain to be sharpened must be marked with a marker so as not to go around the second round.

Sharpening an electric saw chain with your own hands should be done with precise and rhythmic movements and only in one direction. After making several sharpenings, proceed to processing the limiter - over time it wears out and loses its shape. When working, place the end side of the gauge against the edge of the stop. If the limiter extends far beyond the caliber, it will have to be trimmed using a flat file. In this case, the gauge must be positioned strictly perpendicular to the saw bar.

It is impossible to determine the result of chain sharpening visually. You can only find out whether you did everything correctly when sawing the wood.

How to lubricate a power saw chain - a procedure for beginners

As a rule, lubrication of the electric saw chain is carried out using high-quality automobile oil. The only important point is that you should not use used compounds, as they will only harm your garden tools.

Before adding oil, you must unplug the power saw. If the electric saw is equipped with an automatic oil supply system, then the lubricating fluid must be poured into a separate container of the tool, and then start working.

If you notice that the chain on the electric saw is not lubricated even if there is a large amount of oil in the tank, then first of all you will need to check the plunger pump of the tool. In most models it is made of soft plastic, and the teeth on it become unusable very quickly. In such cases, replacing the part will be quite expensive, which is why many owners prefer to buy new electric saws.

If there is no such automatic lubrication system in the electric saw, then lubrication of the chain is performed in a completely different way. To do this, you need to dip the chain in oil, and then install it back on the electric saw. The chain must be lubricated abundantly, otherwise the saw engine will be subjected to heavy loads due to lack of oil.

When the electric saw is idle for a long time, many chain manufacturers advise making oil baths for the saw elements. This will prevent their corrosion and rapid wear. To do this, you need to put the chain in a container and fill it with oil so that the liquid completely covers the part. After this, the container is tightly closed with a lid and left until the next use of the electric saw.

Source: https://sadovij-instrument.ru/elektropily/vybrat-tsep.html

Electric saw chain - lubrication, sharpening, how to put it on correctly

The bar and chain are elements of an electric saw, the main function of which is to cut wood. Its effectiveness on the site largely depends on the condition and serviceability of the saw set of a garden tool: the ability to fell dry trees or carefully saw logs. To maintain high performance of the electric saw, its operator must monitor the condition of the bar and chain, regularly add new oil to lubricate them, and also change the saw parts as they wear out.

How to sharpen a power saw chain with your own hands?

To sharpen the saw blade of an electric garden saw evenly, its owner has 3 options. The first method is manual.

It consists of using two files - round and flat, as well as a holder necessary for attaching a round tool.

The round file must be selected taking into account the chain pitch - the larger it is, the larger the diameter of the file used. A flat file is needed to process the stopper, so it can be of any size.

The procedure for sharpening a chain with files is as follows:

1. First, the holder with a round file pre-fixed in it must be installed on the cutting chain of the electric saw. There are arrows on the bar that should be parallel to the guide rail;
2. Next you need to check the sharpening angle. After making sure that the upper blade of the cutting tooth of the chain is located at an angle of 25–30⁰, you can begin sharpening;
3. The operator's movements must be uniform and directed only forward. Each of the cutting teeth of the chain must be processed the same number of times.

The second way to sharpen the cutting parts of an electric saw is to use a set of files and a special template. The template already contains the necessary parameters: angles of inclination and processing of the teeth. In addition, sharpening the electric saw chain using a template allows you to evenly process the stop tooth.

During the restoration of the cutting teeth, the template is applied to each of them in turn. It is equipped with moving rollers along which the file slides while working with the chain. At the same time, the sharpening angle is not disturbed, which makes the restoration of each tooth uniform.

The only disadvantage of this method is the need to use a separate template for each specific type of cutting element, taking into account the pitch of the chain, the width of its shank, the drive link and other parameters.

The third sharpening method is to use an electric machine. This option is considered the simplest, fastest and most convenient. Most machines come complete with metric and graduated scales, which allow you to restore almost any chain, regardless of its pitch and number of links.

The use of an electric machine is suitable for people involved in regular felling and sawing of logs. In other cases, it is not practical to buy specialized equipment.

How to properly put a chain on a power saw?

To install a new cutting set, the user of a garden electric saw will need a screwdriver, gloves made of thick fabric, and a wrench.

To install the chain on the electric saw, you need to follow the following procedure:

1. First, you need to unscrew the guide bar mounting nuts using a wrench. Before doing this, it is important to make sure that the inertia brake is in the off position. Otherwise, the operator risks breaking the tension cable of the inertial mechanism;
2. Then you need to carefully move the brake pad to the side;
3. Next, you need to move the guide bar, while trying to engage the drive sprocket of the electric saw. This is necessary in order to remove the part of the tire mounted on the sprocket. The rest of the guide - its shank, is attached in special holes;
4. After this, you need to put the chain on the electric saw and adjust the tension of the cutting element, using a separate plastic tensioner for this;
5. Then you will need to install the protective cover and unscrew the bolts securing it completely.

Source: https://pro-traktor.ru/elektropily/tsep.html

How to properly sharpen saw chains

Chainsaws are one of the main tools that a gardener cannot do without. There are gasoline and electric saws that are indispensable for performing complex and regular work on sawing and felling trees.

The Foresta website offers a wide range of gardening equipment, including chainsaws and power saws for working with hardwood trees. The power of the devices is enough for use throughout the day.

The tools are intended not only for household work, but also for performing tasks in the construction or forestry industry. You can purchase products in Ukraine through the website or in company stores.

The performance of electric saws and chainsaws depends on the correct operation of the device, including the saw set and chains. A sharp, properly sharpened chain is the key to efficient and safe operation. To sharpen it, you can use the services of specialists. However, you will have to sharpen your tools regularly, so the best option is to find out how sharpening is carried out and do it yourself, without involving specialists.

Tools for sharpening saw chains

Professionals will tell you that a sharp chain is more important than a strong engine. There is no exact time when the part needs to be sharpened. It all depends on how often you use electric and gas tools.

The first sign of a failure is its slow operation and a large amount of dust. When cutting with a sharp electric saw or chainsaw, the sawdust will be square; otherwise, it will resemble small needles.

There are many devices for sharpening chains of electric saws and chainsaws, let's look at the main ones.

Professional chain sharpening devices allow you to sharpen your tool as quickly and efficiently as possible. However, not every gardener will want to buy such a setup. It is much easier to sharpen a part using tools that are found in every craftsman’s home.

As for hand tools, you will need a flat file, a round one for processing the cutting teeth, and a hook for removing sawdust. If the cutting part of the teeth is completely deformed, then sharpening the chain with a file is quite problematic, and the work will take a lot of time. The optimal replacement is the use of manual machines. The process occurs several times faster: 3–5 movements are enough. The main condition is to set the operating parameters correctly.

One of the most popular and inexpensive devices for sharpening chain saws is a grinder. Any craftsman can find such a tool in his home, and sharpening the equipment is very easy. Let's take a closer look at each method.

How to sharpen an electric and chainsaw chain with a file

Sharpening electric saws and chainsaws is done in the same way, and the main advantage of this method is cost-effectiveness. A file can be found in every home, and you can buy it very inexpensively, even if you choose a diamond file for sharpening a chainsaw chain.

We will tell you below how to choose a file for sharpening a chainsaw chain. You'll need:

• A round file for sharpening a chain, the diameter of which should correspond to its width. If the chain size is 1.3 mm, select a 4 mm file; with size 1.6, the diameter of the file for sharpening the chain is 5.2 mm.
• Flat is used for cutting tooth stops.
• A sharpening pattern or template is attached to the part to be ground and used to guide the abrasive tool.

Sharpening a chainsaw chain is done manually and consists of the following steps:

• First you need to firmly secure the chain. The better you fix the part, the easier it will be to work.
• The work is performed at a certain angle, without changing it throughout the entire process.
• The file should not protrude above the tooth more than one-fifth of its thickness.
• You only need to apply pressure on the file when moving forward.
• To ensure that each tooth has the same sharpness, you must rotate the file regularly and perform the same number of movements each time.
• If the teeth are of different lengths, grind them all down to the size of the shortest one.

How to sharpen a saw chain with a grinder

Not every chain can be sharpened by hand, especially if the tool is very dull and sharpening is needed to correct serious flaws. The grinding process takes only a few minutes, but requires certain skills. To sharpen the equipment, you do not have to remove the chain; the work is done on the body. Use a 2.5 mm metal disc, and sharpen at minimum speed, processing the teeth one by one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrFrBHIwrIw

It is important to follow safety precautions, be sure to use goggles and gloves. You can purchase personal protective equipment on the Foresta website. Accessories are used to protect eyes and hands from external influences, are designed for safe work and will be needed not only to sharpen chain saws, but also when performing other gardening and repair work.

Manual chain sharpening machine

Using a manual chain sharpening machine guarantees efficient and precise results. However, this method is quite long and tedious. The process occurs in several stages:

• It is necessary to loosen the clamp that holds the chain.
• For accurate and safe operation, securely fasten the part.
• Next, set the appropriate sharpening angle.
• The level of sharpening is determined by the degree of the most dull tooth.
• After completion of work, the chain must be cleaned and placed in oil.

To make work easier, instead of a machine for manually sharpening a chainsaw chain, it is better to use an automatic device - a machine that is used in woodworking enterprises and workshops.

Professional sharpening machines for chain saws

A professional machine for sharpening chains of electric saws and chainsaws will allow you to quickly and efficiently service the device. Many people prefer to do without it, carefully filing each tooth with a file. However, an electric chain sharpener is easy to use and will help make your work as easy as possible. Chain sharpening machines are designed for long-term tasks; sharpening is easy with a machine, but whether it is worth buying a device exclusively for home use is up to you to decide.

Sharpening a chainsaw chain on a machine is not difficult: you need to fix the chain in special guides, adjust the width of the groove, select the correct angle and lower the sharpening disk. We move the chain along the holder, clamp it and process each tooth.

Sharpening the chain of petrol and electric saws occurs on the emery stone of the machine. This method does not require professional skills and takes very little time. Its main drawback is the financial costs that will have to be allocated to purchase the device.

Therefore, gardeners more often use hand tools, machines or a grinder. When choosing a tool, consider the degree of dullness, the time required and the desired result.

At the same time, be sure to use protective equipment (goggles, gloves or a face shield) for safe and productive work.

Source: https://foresta.ua/blog/kak-zatochit-tsep-benzopily-i-elektropily-kak-tochit-pilnuyu-tsep/

How to sharpen a saw chain with a file

Everyone knows that the saw chain used in chainsaws requires periodic sharpening, but not everyone knows how to do it correctly. It is very easy to determine that a saw requires chain sharpening; to do this, you need to inspect the sawdust, and if it consists of fine dust, then the tool needs to be sharpened. If it is impossible to sharpen, you should replace it with a new one.

Using an unsharpened chain can lead to engine overheating and scoring on the cylinder.

Let's look at the main ways you can sharpen a chain on a chainsaw without any problems.

How to sharpen a chain on a chainsaw with your own hands

A person who has a chainsaw on his farm should know how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with his own hands. There are several ways:

• Sharpen using a file (the most common method of sharpening, since it allows you to sharpen the tool directly at the site of sawing work.)
• Sharpen using a special machine (this method is used in service centers, but can also be used in private households)
• Sharpen using a grinder. Sharpening using this method requires certain skills. A less common method, because It is quite difficult to sharpen correctly using an angle grinder.

In this video, you can familiarize yourself with the sharpening process, the most popular methods and tools used for this.

Sharpening with a file

The first thing you need to sharpen a chain or correct it a little is special files.

File

For sharpening and straightening saw chains, two types of files are used. The first is a round file with a diameter corresponding to the rounding diameter of the working edge of the saw tooth.

For sharpening saw chains of household tools, round files with a diameter of 4, 4.8 mm are used, this is due to the fact that they have a small tooth. For professional models, more powerful chains with larger teeth are used, and accordingly, files with a diameter of 5.2, 5.5 mm are needed.

In order to sharpen correctly, it is not enough to sharpen only the cutting edges of the tooth; you also need to adjust the cutting depth limiter. If this is not done, the chain will not cut into the material being cut to the required depth, which will significantly reduce the speed of work and, just like in a situation with a blunt chain, can lead to overheating of the saw engine due to insufficient load on the engine. This work is done using a flat file.

Description of the sharpening process using files

The first step in straightening a saw chain on a saw is to place the tool on a flat platform or table. In forest conditions, a large diameter chock is well suited for this. Next, you need to inspect the saw chain for any defects, these could be cracks or completely broken teeth. After inspection, you need to set the brake to working condition, thereby blocking its movement on the tire.

The chain must be tensioned when sharpening with a file.

It is advisable to place a stand under the bar; you can use a log, a piece of a branch of a suitable diameter as it, or manufacturers of sharpening tools have special clamps to hold the bar while sharpening the chain.

The chain is sharpened by moving the file from the inside of the tooth outwards. In this case, the file should be located parallel to the special mark on the chain. This mark is applied by the chain manufacturer to indicate the standard sharpening angle.

The tooth being sharpened should be located approximately in the middle of the bar, this is necessary for the convenience of work; during the sharpening process, you need to move the chain along the bar, not forgetting to set the brake to the working position each time.

The work of sharpening a chain on a chainsaw must be carried out using gloves made of rough material, otherwise it is quite easy to injure yourself, because the working surface of the teeth is very sharp.

Ideally, manufacturers advise performing the same number of file movements for each tooth, but in practice this is not always possible, because the teeth have varying degrees of damage to the working edge.

To facilitate sharpening the saw chain using a file, special holders with corner markings applied to them can be used. Markings are made not only for a standard transverse cut, but also for a longitudinal one.

Tool holders are also convenient to use if you do not have sufficient sharpening experience. Experienced craftsmen do not use holders for sharpening, but can only use special devices that support the file.

Another device designed for sharpening is a manual saw chain straightening machine. It uses a regular file as a sharpening tool, which you can replace yourself. The machine is mounted directly on the tire; it also has the ability to adjust the angle of sharpening the tooth and a special stop that holds the tooth being sharpened.

Manual sharpening machine, perfect for beginners. Along with electric models of sharpening machines, manual ones have their undeniable advantage in the form of a low price. Depending on the manufacturer of the manual machine, their appearance may vary, but the principle of operation is the same for all.

Adjustment of the cutting depth is done using a flat file, so that there is a difference between the upper cutting edge of the tooth and the height limiter.

As can be seen from the figure, the depth stop is ground down in such a way as to bring the gap to the factory value. Below is a table that shows the main values ​​of angles, as well as clearances for the most common types of chains.

As a rule, the gap size is adjusted using a special die. It is installed on the chain during sharpening, after which the depth stop is ground off.

Electric sharpening machines

To straighten a large number of chains, as a rule, in service centers or at manufacturing plants, electric sharpening machines are used. Depending on the manufacturer, the design of the machines may vary, but they have the same operating principle.

The saw chain is installed in a special guide, which is mounted on the basis of a rotating platform and has a special clamp to hold the tooth being sharpened. The latch is capable of moving in a horizontal plane.

An electric sander is installed at an adjustable angle to the tooth being sharpened, which is turned on by the operator by pressing the start button. The depth of immersion of the emery, as well as the angle at which sharpening is done, can be adjusted. The dive itself is performed by the operator.

The chain is straightened with a special grinding wheel, which can be changed if necessary.

How to sharpen using an angle grinder (grinder)

The method of sharpening a saw chain using an angle grinder is the least common because it is not safe. In order to straighten the teeth of a chain using a grinder as a sharpening tool, you need to install it in a vice and clamp it securely.

Next, the tool is turned on and the tooth edge to be sharpened is placed on the rotating surface of the disk. A tooth sharpened in this way can differ significantly from one sharpened with a file, because

During the editing process using a grinder, it is quite difficult to control the sharpening angle.

Source: http://mercabadom.ru/kak-zatochit-cep-pily-napilnikom/