How to sharpen a rip saw chain correctly

What degree of sharpening of chainsaw chains

The guarantee of long-term operation and good performance of your tool is correct and timely maintenance. To make the sawing process comfortable, it is necessary to sharpen chain saws in a timely manner. Blunt teeth can be sharpened by contacting a specialist, or you can do it yourself. The process is simple. But given that the teeth have a non-standard shape, you need to know some nuances and acquire a special tool.

Causes of the problem

A chainsaw is a hand tool that is used for longitudinal and cross cutting of wood. The cutting element of the saw is equipped with teeth with a cutting edge; they are sharpened in a special order. Wood is a relatively soft material, despite this, with intensive use of the chain, the teeth become naturally dull, and small defects and chips appear on them.

These defects lead to a decrease in the efficiency (efficiency) of sawing, a significant weighting is felt, as well as a delay in the process. Do-it-yourself chainsaw edits improve performance. This standard procedure can be performed using various devices.

Circuit State Determination

Pronounced signs of wear on the cutting part of the tool include the following manifestations:

1. When cutting wood, the tool “walks” from side to side.
2. In electric saws, at maximum speeds, the load on the engine is significantly felt.
3. Excessive width and unevenness of the cut is observed.
4. An abundance of small chips appears.
5. The usual cutting time increases and work productivity decreases.

During work, additional efforts must be made; this not only leads to rapid fatigue of the worker, but also increases the risk of tool breakage or chain breakage. Therefore, you should not hesitate to resolve the issue of eliminating defects, and in some cases, replacing the chain.

Options for doing the job

It is important to know how to sharpen a chainsaw chain at home, so as not to delay the process of working with lumber and not break the tool. Sharpening an electric saw chain with your own hands is no different from straightening the cutting element of a saw with a gasoline engine. You can choose one of the available methods:

1. Straightening teeth using a file is the most common and easiest method, which allows you to sharpen directly on the job site.
2. The teeth can be sharpened using the PowerSharp system.
3. Using a special sharpening machine - this method is used by service centers, but it can also be used at home.
4. Using an angle grinder (grinder).

   This method is unlikely to be used by inexperienced users, since it is rarely used and requires certain skills.

Shtil chainsaw sharpening angle

It is important to maintain the sharpening angle of the rear corner of the upper blade; this can only be done using a template. It is extremely difficult to achieve this in other ways, since its value ranges from 50 to 60°.

The angle of the leading edge can be changed depending on what type of sawing you will be doing. The harder the wood, the smaller the angle, otherwise the edge will bend. The optimal angle values ​​are 1012° for longitudinal cutting, and 2530° for cross cutting.

Its performance depends on which edge angle is used in a particular case.

Editing the chain with a file

Chainsaw chains are sharpened using two types of files: round and flat. The round file must correspond to the rounding diameter of the sawing teeth of the particular chain.

For example, to sharpen a Shtil 180 chainsaw with your own hands, you will need a file with a diameter of 4 mm. For other chains of this type, files with a diameter of 3.8 to 4.8 mm can be used.

For chains used on professional saws, needle files with a diameter of 5.2 to 5.5 mm are used. Read about chain sharpening machines here.

To properly straighten the chain, using only a round file is not enough, because, in addition to sharpening the teeth, it is necessary to adjust the cutting depth limiter. If you miss this important point, the chain will not be able to bite to the required depth into the body of the sawing material, and this will significantly reduce the speed of the work being carried out and will affect the service life of the engine. For this type of sharpening you must use a flat file.

When sharpening, protect your hands with thick gloves and your eyes with goggles.

Useful tips

The following recommendations will be useful in your work:

1. To begin, place the tool on a flat, stable surface—a table or bench works well. If you are in a forest, then just find a wide log or stump. Check the teeth around the entire circumference for chips and other defects: it may turn out that some teeth have broken.
2. Set the saw brake to working condition - this action will block the movement of the chain along the bar.

   Make sure that the cutting element is taut during sharpening. It is recommended to place a stand in the form of a log or a regular piece of branch under the tire - this way it will not fall through when pressed. You can purchase special clamps to hold the tire in a stationary position.

3. During the sharpening process, the file moves from the inside of the tooth to the outer edge of the edge, turning the file around its axis.

   In this case, the tool must be moved parallel to a special mark located on the chain. This mark serves as an indicator of the correct sharpening angle of the cutting edge. For the convenience of the process itself, the tooth you are processing should be located in the center of the splint.

4. All sharpening work must be carried out in protective clothing and gloves, since the cutting edge of the teeth is very sharp, so there is a high probability of injury.

   For uniform sharpening, manufacturers recommend performing the same number of file movements for each tooth; in practice, this recommendation can only be applied to teeth that are not damaged.

5. For easier sharpening, the file can be used in conjunction with a special holder, on which the permissible angles are marked.

   With the help of such marks, teeth can be sharpened not only for transverse, but also for longitudinal cutting of wood. Using a holder will also be useful for people who, unlike professionals, do not have proper experience in this matter.

Sharpening a chainsaw chain on a machine

The machine is a portable device for convenient sharpening of teeth. It uses the same file as an abrasive tool, which can be changed depending on the caliber of the chain. The device is attached directly to the saw bar. As in the case of the holder, the machine has marks for maintaining the desired sharpening angle, as well as a lock for the tooth being sharpened.

Source: https://vi-pole.ru/kakoj-gradus-zatochki-cepej-benzopil.html

Chainsaw chains. How to choose? How is it arranged?

What distinguishes professional lumberjacks from those new to this business is that the former understand exactly how to determine the quality of a chainsaw. It makes little sense to take into account the power of the device alone, since the configuration of the cutting element is of decisive importance. In the case of a chainsaw, this element is a chain, which consists of cutting, driving and connecting links.

The cutting link includes a depth limiter and the cutting part itself, the operation of which is somewhat similar to a plane, that is, the thickness of the chips depends on how far the upper edge is extended. The leading link takes on the function of rotating the chain along the groove and distributing the lubricant, and the connecting links are designed to connect the remaining elements of the chain to each other.

Their construction always takes place at a strict angle, the same applies to subsequent sharpening, since the slightest change in the angle in one direction or another will lead to the chainsaw not working.

The first time such tools began to be used back in 1920, but then the teeth were flat and straight, which could not but affect the final cutting result, and it was quite difficult to work with such a saw.

A certain breakthrough in this area occurred in 1947, when a fundamentally new type of chain teeth was introduced - the L-shaped shape made it possible to cut the material much faster, in addition, the process of sharpening the teeth was simplified, so it is not surprising that the invention of Joseph Cox, who proposed such idea, in a short time it became a sales leader.

If we consider our days, then almost the same version of the chainsaw has reached us, which is based on a chain system with a crescent-shaped cutting profile, for which the type of wood does not play a significant role.

What to look for when selecting a saw chain?

Key characteristics of a saw chain include pitch, shank or drive link thickness, cutting depth and profile size, and chain length. The direction of the cut should also be taken into account.

It is from these parameters that you need to start when you purchase a chain to replace a worn one, or when you need to purchase a chain for some special needs. To avoid mistakes, you can look at the device’s passport, where the manufacturer indicates the main parameters of the saw.

If we are talking about the initial purchase of a tool, then these parameters themselves must correspond to the purposes of using the chainsaw.

Chain pitch

This parameter is a value in millimeters, although in the documentation it is customary to write inches. It is calculated by dividing the distances between three rivets by 2. It is based on this characteristic that it is customary to divide canvases into several main groups:

1. A pitch of 0.25 inches (6.35 mm) is used in devices with minimal power, which are suitable exclusively for country work. It will not be possible to cut large logs with such a pitch. Chains for chainsaws with this pitch are not very common.
2. The next two groups, which use pitches of 0.325 and 0.375 inches (8.25 and 9.3 mm, respectively), are the most common of all, as approximately 70% of all chainsaws produced in the world fall into these groups. Accordingly, they can be used for most existing household tasks. But there is one little trick! Since it is quite easy to confuse the numbers 0.325 and 0.375, chains with pitches of 0.375 are designated 3/8, that is, 3/8 inches.
3. The last group with pitches of 0.404 and 0.75 inches (10.26 and 19.05 mm) is used for the most difficult applications. In this case, we are talking about a logging tool rather than a saw for household use. That is, chains with such a pitch can only be found on professional chainsaws.

There is a direct relationship between the step size and the performance of the tool, but you also need to take into account that a large step requires a more powerful motor.

The cutting quality of devices with large pitches is still inferior to devices from the first three categories, since the teeth there are more densely spaced.

For a power of 2.5 liters, a step of 0.325 mm is suitable, and for a more productive chainsaw it is better to install a 3/8 mm saw blade and chain, as this will help to reveal the saw’s full potential.

Drive link thickness

In this case, a division into several main categories is also used in accordance with this parameter. We are talking about thickness values ​​such as 1.1; 1.3; 1.5; 1.6; 2 mm (0.043'', 0.050'',0.058'',0.063'',0.080''). This characteristic, measured in inches, affects how smoothly the cutting blade will move while the saw is running.

• Chains with a pitch of 1.1 mm are used on low-power household chainsaws, as well as on chainsaws intended for figure cutting (carving).
• 1.3mm pitch chains are more common. For example, the famous chainsaw Stihl MS 180 is equipped with chains with exactly this pitch. And in general this is the most popular step.
• Pitches of 1.5 and 1.6 mm have chains that are intended for professional and “semi-professional” (farm) chainsaws.
• 2 mm - this pitch is found exclusively on chains installed on very productive and powerful chainsaws in the professional segment.

Low and High Profile Chains

What do you need to know about chain profile height? It determines what the cutting depth of the saw will be. Based on this parameter, the saw can be either low or high profile, respectively, in the first case the chips will be removed thinner, but the work will occur somewhat slower, while in the second case the depth and productivity will be greater.

For low-profile tools, a parameter of 0.635 mm is used, and for high-profile tools, 0.762 mm is used. If we consider devices for domestic use, they are always low-profile, while professional equipment can be produced in two versions.

At the same time, in order to stabilize the vibration that inevitably occurs during operation, manufacturers make a balance between the profile height and the number of steps. For a small step, make a high profile, and vice versa. Failure to comply with this rule will lead to the fact that it will be impossible to work with a chainsaw for a long time, although the wood will be cut very quickly.

This balance must be maintained if there is an intention to sharpen at home; in all other situations, all that remains is to choose a saw for the home or for professional cutting.

Main types of links

If we consider the most common types of links, these are chisel links, which can most often be found on professional equipment, and chipper links , which are supplied to simple chainsaws.

The first option in cross-section is a little similar to the number 7, and this design allows you to work with the saw as quickly as possible, since the link digs into the material evenly. Cutting occurs more accurately, but sharpening such links at home is extremely difficult, since the slightest deviation from the permissible angle eliminates all the advantages of this design.

In the case of a chipper, there is no need to maintain strict angles; also, such a link is not so afraid of contamination, although there is a higher load on the tool. For home use, the second option is more suitable, especially if you don’t have the skills to sharpen a saw.

As for the material, chromium-nickel steel is mainly used, although if particularly necessary, if it is necessary to work with particularly strong material, carbide tips can be put on the teeth, as evidenced by the markings on them.

Chains for rip and cross cuts

The name of the chains corresponds to the direction for cutting fibers they are intended for. To work across, an acute sharpening angle of the link is not needed, since the resistance of the wood is not as great as when working in the longitudinal direction.

Each type of wood requires the choice of one direction or another, and if we are talking about professional work with wood, which also involves longitudinal cutting, then you will need to sharpen the teeth to 5-15 degrees, while for work at home 25-35 degrees is enough . The demand for longitudinal chains is minimal, since it is more reasonable to use a circular saw for longitudinal work.

It happens that it is quite difficult to find a model that works lengthwise, even in a specialized store. For work at home, it makes no sense to look for such a saw, since cross-cutting devices will perform all household tasks without difficulty.

How to determine whether a chain is suitable for longitudinal or cross cutting?

• For cross cutting, the chain sharpening angle is 30 degrees.
• For longitudinal sawing, the sharpening angle of the saw chain is 10 degrees.

Stihl's rip saw chain is designated PMX. For example, STIHL 63 PMX 50.

Oregon will have the letter R in its chain model index. Example: 73RD100R

Is the sequence of the cutting links important?

In the usual case, when a saw is manufactured at a factory, it is customary to place two driving links on one cutting link, thereby making 50% of the total cutting teeth.

Then the productivity of the equipment remains at the same level, and the quality of the cut does not suffer, but in order to reduce the cost of the chain, cutting links can be placed not every step, but after one or even two steps, which will bring the total number of cutting links to 37.5%.

A chainsaw will become cheaper, but the quality of cutting will greatly deteriorate, so it is better not to pay attention to such devices.

Carbide chains

Such chains are much more expensive, and they have a special purpose - working with frozen wood or contaminated material. In all other situations, the money will be wasted, since for simple wood there is no point in carbide brazing.

Major chain manufacturers

Almost any online store or specialized salon offers chainsaw components, including chains, from Husqvarna (Sweden), Oregon (Canada), and Stihl (Germany). Each manufacturer has its own advantages over its competitors, but the quality of products produced by these companies is at approximately the same level.

about chainsaw chains

Source: https://benzopilatut.ru/cepi-dlya-benzopily-kak-vybrat-kak-ustroena-video/

Sharpening a chain for rip sawing – Sharpening a chain for rip sawing: sharpening angles, tooth configuration

alexxlab | 02/26/2019 | 0 | Questions and answers

Sharpening a chain for rip sawing: sharpening angles, tooth configuration

A chainsaw can be called a fairly common tool that is used for cutting wood. Mechanical processing in this case is carried out using a special saw chain, which is fixed on a special bar.

Long-term and improper use quite often becomes the reason why it is necessary to dismantle and sharpen. At the same time, today there are no problems with removing the chain for longitudinal sawing and putting it on, but there are still problems with direct sharpening.

Let us consider the features of such a procedure in more detail.

Saw chains for rip sawing with a chainsaw

A modern chain for longitudinal sawing is represented by a rather complex design, which is made using high-quality steel, characterized by increased wear resistance and corrosion resistance. Among the features are the following:

1. The design is represented by individual links that are connected to each other in a special way. This ensures a high level of flexibility; the rip sawing chain can follow the complex shape of the bar.
2. There are several different plates for their purpose: cutting, guiding and connecting. Cutters directly remove material.

The natural process of operation becomes the reason why cutting inserts wear out. In addition, violation of operating recommendations can also lead to a similar result, for example, if soil gets into the cutting zone.

That is why all owners of such a tool should pay attention to exactly how sharpening is carried out.

External signs of a blunt cutting edge of a chainsaw tooth

Sharpening a chain for rip sawing is usually carried out exclusively when it is worn out; the procedure is rarely performed periodically. That is why you need to know exactly what signs indicate the need for such a procedure. Among the features of the issue under consideration, we note the following:

1. The tooth of a chainsaw rip sawing chain is characterized by a complex configuration, so it will not be possible to determine defects simply by visual inspection.
2. To check the condition of the teeth, test cutting is carried out. If vibration occurs when performing such work, this indicates the need for sharpening.
3. The condition of the rip sawing chain can also be determined by visual inspection of the chips. Rough chips and dents also indicate a need for maintenance.
4. The pressing force of the chainsaw is also taken into account when assessing the condition of the chain. At first, when sawing, the plates easily enter the material, but with severe wear, even at the beginning you have to apply force.

A visual inspection may also reveal rounded and tapered areas that indicate chain wear and other defects. However, such a sign can only be identified by a specialist with extensive experience.

Grinding angles and saw tooth configurations

As previously noted, the product in question is characterized by a rather complex configuration. Among the features of modern versions, the following points can be noted:

1. The choice of chain for rip sawing is carried out for a specific chainsaw model, since the configuration largely depends on the power and some other points.
2. For rip sawing, the cutting blade spacing is 0.325 inches. This ensures high stability during operation.
3. The cutting edge can have a thickness of 1.3 mm. There are also versions on sale that have a thickness of about 1.1 mm, but they are difficult to sharpen at home. In addition, the small thickness allows cutting of thin branches.
4. Attention is also paid to the profile height, which varies in the range from 0.625 to 0.762 mm. For domestic versions, the low profile version is suitable. This indicator determines the likelihood of vibration occurring at the time of sawing.

The sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain largely depends on the purpose of the tool, as some are suitable for cross-cutting, others for sawing. The longitudinal resistance of wood to sawing is very high, so the edges must be very sharp. The recommended sharpening angle is 6-12°. The difference in cutting angles is selected depending on the task at hand, as well as some other points.

When performing work, do not forget that too low a sharpening rate causes rapid grinding of the edge. This point is most important in the case when the product is manufactured using alloy steels, for example, grade 40ХГС.

Chain saw sharpening template

To significantly simplify the procedure, it is recommended to purchase a special template, which greatly simplifies the procedure for setting the required angle. Such a tool allows you to check the indicator of the rear angles of the conical and top blades, as well as the leading edge of the cutting edge.

Experts point out that the most important thing is to use a template to control the clearance angle. This is due to the difficulty of changing this indicator, and it must be maintained within a strict range.

A fairly common indicator is the grinding angle, which also varies depending on the task at hand.

Too high a material hardness determines the need to reduce this indicator. Experts indicate that the optimal value varies from 10 to 12°.

Mechanized sharpening on a machine

Special tools that can be used to simplify the procedure have become quite widespread. Such machines are equipped with a special electric drive and grinding wheels with increased wear resistance.

A small tool is suitable for use at home. Such devices can be powered from a 220 V network, and the power consumption is 100 W. Installing a chain is quite simple; the sharpening procedure can be carried out even without special training.

When choosing a machine, pay attention to the following points:

1. Adjustment of the sharpening angle within a certain required range.
2. Possibility of processing chains with different pitches and cutting edge thicknesses.
3. Features of the procedure for changing grinding discs.
4. Control of the cutting width value.
5. Power of the installed electric motor and energy consumption indicator.

In addition, it is recommended to pay attention to the popularity of the brand, since service life and many other aspects depend on this.

In conclusion, we note that mistakes made at the time of sharpening can cause increased chain wear. That is why, if you use a tool frequently and do not have a sharpening machine required, it is recommended to entrust the work to professionals who provide the appropriate services.

Source: https://stankotec.ru/raznoe/zatochka-cepi-dlya-prodolnogo-pileniya-zatochka-cepi-dlya-prodolnogo-pileniya-ugly-zatochki-konfiguraciya-zubev.html

How to resharpen a rip saw chain

A chainsaw can be called a fairly common tool that is used for cutting wood. Mechanical processing in this case is carried out using a special saw chain, which is fixed on a special bar.

Long-term and improper use quite often becomes the reason why it is necessary to dismantle and sharpen. At the same time, today there are no problems with removing the chain for longitudinal sawing and putting it on, but there are still problems with direct sharpening.

Let us consider the features of such a procedure in more detail.

Ripping chain

Even the popular Stihl does not last forever: the teeth of a chainsaw eventually wear out, which is easy to determine by the nature of the chips that form. With a dull cutting edge, the chips turn out to be small, because the working edge does not cut, but crushes the wood. Naturally, the effort expended by the operator increases sharply. It's time to sharpen the saw. How to do this correctly - choose the optimal technology, determine what angle of tooth sharpening should be and how to check it?

External signs of a dull cutting edge of a chainsaw tooth

Let us recall that a chainsaw tooth has a complex configuration (see Fig. 1), which also depends on the direction of movement of the chain.

It has two working edges: a side edge, which is located perpendicular to the axis of movement of the links, and an upper edge, located at a certain angle to the direction of movement of the chain. In addition, a limiter is provided on each tooth, the parameters of which determine the height of the chips removed.

Since the main cutting force falls precisely on the working angle, all subsequent work with the tool will depend on the angle to which the tooth is sharpened.

Figure 1 – Functional parts of a chainsaw tooth and their appearance

Before starting long-term work with a chainsaw, it needs to be inspected and test sawed, as a result of which:

1. Visually determine the presence (or absence) of a conical section adjacent to the corner of the tooth, as well as a radius rounding on it - the main signs of blunting (see Fig. 2).

Figure 2

1. Check the feed force at which the tool operates steadily and produces a quick cut. For sharp teeth, the initial moment of penetration of the tooth into the wood occurs quickly, and without significant resistance to the material.
2. Find out the presence of chain vibrations during a steady cut - if they are noticeable, then the teeth need to be sharpened.
3. Inspect the appearance of the newly cut end (especially if the tool is used for rip sawing). If there are rough chips and dents, the chainsaw chain must be sharpened.

Sharpening angles and chainsaw tooth configuration

The cutting edge of a tooth is characterized by the following parameters:

• Width;
• Thickness;
• Sharpening angle.

In addition, each tool model has its own tooth pitch, the value of which for household and semi-professional models is associated with the power of the chainsaw and the torque that the drive develops.

For example, for rip sawing, the pitch is taken smaller (for example, 0.325 inches). In this case, work productivity will decrease, but the required force will be significantly lower.

Upper step values ​​for household chainsaws are adopted extremely rarely, mainly when felling trees with a large trunk diameter. The engine power should not exceed 2500 W.

The thickness of the cutting edge of most chainsaw manufacturers is set to the same, and equal to 1.3 mm (there are also edges with a thickness of 1.1 mm, but, firstly, they are extremely difficult to sharpen at home, and, secondly, such links are extremely have little functionality: they can only be used for cutting thin branches).

The height of the chain profile can be either 0.625 mm or 0.762 mm, and in the vast majority of cases, a low profile is used for household gasoline tools. When sharpening limiters, this parameter is very important, because as the height of the excess permissible values ​​decreases, the vibration of the tool during operation increases, although the quality of the cut remains satisfactory. Therefore, you should not get carried away with reducing the height of the stop when sharpening a tooth.

The sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain depends on the main purpose of the tool - for transverse or longitudinal sawing. Since during longitudinal sawing the resistance of wood is always noticeably higher, the edge of the tooth must be very sharp. It is recommended to do it in the range of 612° (for comparison, with a predominance of cross cuts, up to 2530°).

Naturally, in the first case, sharpening should be done more often, and especially carefully, since an unacceptably small angle of inclination of the tooth contributes to its rapid chipping when using a chainsaw. This is especially important for links that are made from structural alloy steels containing silicon and manganese, for example, 40ХГС or 35ХГСА.

Chainsaw chain sharpening template

When purchasing a chainsaw, it is advisable to acquire a special template (see Fig. 3), with which you can easily set the optimal values ​​of the tooth angles. It is used to control the values ​​of the rear angles of the upper and end blades, as well as the front edge angle (it is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions and can vary within 6580°).

It is especially important to use a template to estimate the clearance angle of the upper blade. This sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain is otherwise very difficult to determine, and yet it must be maintained within rather limited limits - from 50 to 60°.

The sharpening angle is measured by determining the angle between the top cutting edge and a line perpendicular to the chain guide.

The sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain can be changed, depending on what work will be done. As the hardness of the wood increases, its value should decrease. In general, the optimal angle value is 1012° for longitudinal cutting, and 2530° for cross cutting.

Figure 3 – Appearance of a template for sharpening chainsaw teeth

Sharpening can be done manually using a round file with a working diameter of 45.5 mm, or on a machine. In the first case, it is extremely important to correctly position the tool relative to the tooth being sharpened. The upper edge of the working part of the file is located approximately a fifth above the upper edge of the tooth. The tool is positioned perpendicular to the chain axis, and at an angle of 2530° to the upper edge of the tooth

One round file is not enough. To sharpen the limiter, you will need a flat file, and to clean the work area, you will need a hook that removes the sawdust that forms.

There are also special holders on sale, on which the lines of direction of movement of the file relative to the chain axis are graduated. As can be seen from Fig. 4, the holder can be installed on the tooth from above, and rest on its upper edge.

Since the height of the holder is adapted to a certain chain pitch, it should be selected in relation to chainsaws of specific models and brands.

The minimum required set to obtain the correct angle for sharpening a chain manually is shown in Fig. 5.

Figure 5 – Set of sharpening tools and accessories

First, the teeth of one direction are sharpened, and then the other. Start by lightly pressing the tool away from you, gradually increasing the load. During sharpening, the round file is periodically rotated along its axis.

Mechanized sharpening on a machine

Sharpening on a machine is much more convenient and does not require highly qualified performers. Such machines are electrically driven and equipped with special grinding wheels.

For a household workshop, it is worth purchasing compact units that do not take up much storage space and are suitable for quick and high-quality sharpening of chainsaw chains from different manufacturers. Such units should operate from a stationary power supply with a voltage of 220 V, have low power consumption (up to 100 W) and be easy to install on the circuit.

When choosing a machine, you need to pay attention to the following technological characteristics:

• Possibility of processing teeth with different thicknesses of the upper edge and different chain pitches;
• The ability to adjust the sharpening angle, within the limits specified earlier;
• Availability of replaceable grinding discs;
• Constant value of the cutting width.

The design of the machine is simple and includes a drive electric motor, a shaft with a seat for a sharpening disk, a handle with controls, and a device for attaching the machine to a chain. Adjustment of the force of pressing on the sharpened element is ensured by a spring clamp. Modern models of sharpening machines are equipped with a differentiated clamp, which provides for self-centering of the product on the machine. For ease of work, there is a measuring scale on the clamp body.

Optionally, the machines can also be equipped with a miniature electric light bulb, which illuminates the working area, as well as a hydraulic booster, which facilitates sharpening.

Safety of work is ensured by a folding safety shield.

Source: https://stroytool.info/pily/tsep-dlya-prodolnogo-pileniya.html

Sharpening chain for rip sawing

A chainsaw can be called a fairly common tool that is used for cutting wood. Mechanical processing in this case is carried out using a special saw chain, which is fixed on a special bar.

Long-term and improper use quite often becomes the reason why it is necessary to dismantle and sharpen. At the same time, today there are no problems with removing the chain for longitudinal sawing and putting it on, but there are still problems with direct sharpening.

Let us consider the features of such a procedure in more detail.

Sharpening angles of chainsaw chains on a machine table

Even the popular Stihl does not last forever: the teeth of a chainsaw eventually wear out, which is easy to determine by the nature of the chips that form. With a dull cutting edge, the chips turn out to be small, because the working edge does not cut, but crushes the wood. Naturally, the effort expended by the operator increases sharply. It's time to sharpen the saw. How to do this correctly - choose the optimal technology, determine what angle of tooth sharpening should be and how to check it?

Chain Sharpening Angle For Rip Sawing

In Russian saws, sintered tungsten-cobalt alloys of the VK grades (VK6, VK15, etc., the number means the percentage of cobalt) are used as materials for cutting blades. VK6 has a hardness of 88.5 HRA, and VK15 has a hardness of 86 HRA.

Foreign manufacturers use their own alloys. VK hard alloys consist mainly of tungsten carbide cemented with cobalt. The properties of the alloy depend not only on its chemical composition, but also on the grain size of the carbide phase.

The smaller the grain, the higher the hardness and strength of the alloy.

The carbide plates are secured to the disk by high-temperature soldering. As a material for soldering, in the best case, silver solders (PSr-40, PSr-45) are used, in the worst case, copper-zinc solders (L-63, MNMTs-68-4-2).

Carbide tooth geometry

The following types of teeth are distinguished by their shape.

Straight tooth . Typically used in saws for fast rip cutting, where quality is not particularly important.

An oblique (beveled) tooth with a left and right angle of inclination of the rear plane. Teeth with different angles of inclination alternate with each other, which is why they are called alternately beveled. This is the most common tooth shape.

Depending on the size of the sharpening angles , saws with alternately beveled teeth are used for sawing a wide variety of materials (wood, chipboard, plastics) - both in the longitudinal and transverse directions. Saws with a large angle of inclination of the rear plane are used as scoring saws when cutting boards with double-sided lamination.

Their use allows you to avoid chipping the coating at the edges of the cut. Increasing the bevel angle reduces the cutting force and reduces the risk of chipping, but at the same time reduces the durability and strength of the tooth.

The teeth can have an inclination not only of the rear, but also of the front plane .

Trapezoidal tooth . A feature of these teeth is the relatively slow rate of dulling of the cutting edges compared to alternately beveled teeth. They are usually used in combination with a straight tooth.

Alternating with the latter and slightly rising above it, the trapezoidal tooth performs rough sawing , and the straight tooth that follows it performs finishing. Saws with alternating straight and trapezoidal teeth are used for cutting boards with double-sided lamination (chipboard, MDF, etc.), as well as for sawing plastics.

Conical tooth . Saws with a conical tooth are auxiliary and are used to cut the bottom layer of the laminate, protecting it from chipping when the main saw passes.

In the vast majority of cases, the front edge of the teeth is flat, but there are saws with a concave front edge. They are used for fine cross cutting.

Tooth sharpening angles

The sharpening angle values ​​are determined by the purpose of the saw - i.e. depending on what material it is intended for cutting and in what direction. Rip saws have a relatively large rake angle (15°-25°). For crosscut saws, the angle γ usually ranges from 5-10°. Universal saws designed for cross-cutting and longitudinal sawing have an average rake angle - usually 15°.

The sharpening angles are determined not only by the direction of the cut, but also by the hardness of the material being cut. The higher the hardness, the smaller the rake and back angles should be (smaller tooth sharpening).

The front angle can be not only positive, but also negative. Saws with this angle are used for cutting non-ferrous metals and plastics.

Basic principles of sharpening

When sawing massive workpieces, the side edges are also subject to rapid wear.

The saw should not be allowed to become too dull. The rounding radius of the cutting edge should not exceed 0.1-0.2 mm. In addition to the fact that when working with a very dull saw, productivity drops sharply, sharpening it takes several times longer than sharpening a saw with a normal dullness. The degree of dullness can be determined both by the teeth themselves and by the type of cut they leave.

Proper sharpening of circular saws consists in simultaneously ensuring the proper sharpness of the cutting edge, providing the maximum number of sharpenings, which in the optimal case can reach 25-30 times.

For this purpose, it is recommended to sharpen the carbide tooth along the front and back planes. In essence, the teeth can be sharpened along one front plane , but the number of possible sharpenings is almost two times less than when sharpening along two planes.

The picture below clearly demonstrates why this happens.

The last pass when sharpening saw blades is recommended to be made along the back plane of the tooth. The standard metal removal rate is 0.05-0.15 mm.

Before sharpening, it is necessary to clean the saw from contaminants, such as resin, and check the sharpening angles . On some saws they are written on the blade.

Equipment and materials for sharpening saw blades

When using abrasive wheels (especially diamond ones), it is advisable to cool them with coolant.

With increasing temperature, the microhardness of abrasive materials decreases. Increasing the temperature to 1000°C reduces the microhardness by almost 2-2.5 times compared to microhardness at room temperature. An increase in temperature to 1300°C causes a decrease in the hardness of abrasive materials by almost 4-6 times.

Sharpening chain for rip sawing

Source: https://xl-info.ru/ugol-zatochki-cepi-dlja-prodolnogo-pilenija/

Sharpening Chainsaw Chain for Ripping Sawing

Attachments and accessories for chainsaws

There are several reasons for this wide range of jobs performed by chainsaws. Chain sharpening for longitudinal sharpening of chainsaw chain and cross-cutting. Do-it-yourself chainsaw sharpening. Sharpening tool.

First, this is the presence of a massive (in relation to its own weight), small-sized, reliable and undemanding internal combustion engine, capable of operating in the most demanding conditions. Sharpening a chainsaw chain with your own hands |. I don’t pay for chains for longitudinal sharpening, sharpening for longitudinal sawing.

The diaphragm type carburetor and sealed fuel supply system allow the saw to operate in various positions, except perhaps completely upside down. The successful design of the centrifugal clutch firmly protects the systems and components of the chainsaw from overloads and breakdowns.

Simplicity of power take-off is also important; You can simply connect any device to the output shaft of the tool. Chainsaw chains with such a pitch are not enough for longitudinal sawing, the sharpening angle of the saw blade. And, in the end, the advantages of a chainsaw include autonomy, which allows you to use it anywhere.

However, do not forget that amateur chainsaws are not designed to work all day in intensive mode.

Petrol cutter attachment

Its main unit is a bearing unit with a shaft, at one end of which there is a driven pulley driven by a V-belt, and at the other end there is a mandrel for securing cutting wheels. Depending on the brand of the latter, a gas cutter can cut metal, stone, brick or tile. The end part of the attachment is made with a groove for attaching it to the saw.

Debarkers

By design, debarkers are divided into drum and disk. Sharpening a chainsaw chain on a chainsaw chain is carried out using an electric machine. The first ones are used mainly for removing bark from logs (cinders); the disk ones cut out mounting grooves, cups, recesses, etc.

The working part of the devices consists of a drum or cutter mounted in a bearing unit. Sharpening a chainsaw chain: devices for rip sawing.

Like most chainsaw attachments, debarkers are driven by a V-belt drive. For this purpose, there is a driven pulley on their axis.

By selecting the diameters of the pulleys and changing the engine speed using the accelerator, you can obtain the optimal rotation speed of the working tool, which provides the necessary processing parameters.

The figure below shows debarkers with different shapes of the working tool: a cutter for making grooves (a), a flat plane (b) and a spherical one (d), a shaped cutter (c).

Pump

The principle of operation of this chainsaw attachment is similar to the principle of operation of all centrifugal pumps. Devices for longitudinal sawing are a set of equipment for a mini sawmill or chainsaw, including a bar and chain for longitudinal sawing.

In the Oregon online store you can buy a chain for a rip saw with delivery to any region of Russia. A hose is connected to the central fitting (1), which is lowered into the water. The pressure hose is connected to the fitting (3).

Before starting work, the water necessary for the pump to start pumping is poured into the plug (2). Sharpening a chainsaw chain is, perhaps, no more difficult than sharpening other cutting tools, but provided that you have special tools for sharpening it. The sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain for cross-cutting or longitudinal cutting.

Sharpening on. When the pump turbine is rotated, a reduced pressure is created in the suction pipe, drawing in water, which is then discharged through the pressure hose.

Sharpening chain for rip sawing

Source: https://auramm.ru/zatochka-cepi-benzopily-dlja-prodolnogo-pilenija/

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain for rip sawing - Special equipment

Attachments and accessories for chainsaws

There are several reasons for this wide range of jobs performed by chainsaws.

First, this is the presence of a massive (in relation to its own weight), small-sized, reliable and undemanding internal combustion engine, capable of operating in the most demanding conditions.

The membrane type carburetor and sealed fuel supply system allow the saw to operate in various positions, except perhaps completely upside down.

The successful design of the centrifugal clutch reliably protects chainsaw systems and components from overloads and breakdowns. Simplicity of power take-off is also important; You can simply connect any device to the output shaft of the tool. And, in the end, the advantages of a chainsaw include autonomy, which allows you to use it anywhere.

However, do not forget that amateur chainsaws are not designed to work all day in intensive mode.

Sharpening rip saw chain using a hand tool

We resharpen the saw chain to cut wood along the grain. Preparing the saw set for work with.

Sharpening chain for rip sawing

Page: Craftsman Forum: .

The rotation speed of the auger during drilling should be relatively low, so a gearbox is used to reduce the speed. It can be made in the form of a V-belt or worm (preferably) transmission.

Winch

Its traction force depends on the power of the chainsaw and can reach 1500-2000 kg, and even more with an additional block.

To perform its functions, the winch must be equipped with additional accessories: a pull-out block to increase the traction force and change the trajectory of movement, hooks, anchors, sling belts for securing to a tree trunk, rock, soil or car.

Devices for longitudinal sawing of logs
(mini sawmills)

Device for vertical cutting of logs . The simplest is the device for vertical sawing of logs, shown below.

It consists of an adapter (1), attached to the tire at its base, and a guide (2), which determines the straightness of the adapter's movement. The guide is installed on the board (3), which in turn is attached to the log being cut.

The main purpose of this device for a chainsaw is to ensure the straight movement of the bar. With its help, you can not only dissolve a log into two or four parts (quarters) or cut a beam out of it, but also saw it into boards or beams.

However, in the latter case, you will have to rearrange the board with the guide each time, and it will not be possible to achieve great accuracy when sawing.

The unfixed end of the tire may move to the side, as a result of which constancy of the parameters and complete parallelism of the sides of the beams or boards are unlikely to be achieved.

Device for horizontal cutting . Using the device shown in the photo below, logs are cut in a horizontal plane. Compared to a device for vertical cutting, it has increased functionality and accuracy, allowing you to cut boards or beams of the same thickness.

The device, which is attached to the tire in two places - the beginning and the end - has a frame structure that ensures the rigidity of the device. The mounting location (1) can move along the tire.

This allows you to set the required cutting width (according to the diameter of the log) - within the length of the tire. The guides (2) can be installed at any distance from the tire, thereby ensuring the required thickness of the cut beams or boards.

The first horizontal cut is carried out using a guide frame (3) mounted on the log and serving as a base surface for the guides (2).

For subsequent cuts, the flat surface (4) obtained in the previous pass is used as the base surface. During operation, to avoid pinching the saw, wedges are inserted into the cut to prevent the cut from narrowing.

If it is necessary to cut logs whose diameter exceeds the length of a standard bar, a more complex device is used, which uses a long bar.

In this case, the saw’s native lubrication system does not provide high-quality lubrication of the entire chain, so it becomes necessary to install an additional system consisting of a tank and a hose that supplies lubricant to the end of the bar.

To ensure oil supply by gravity, the tank is placed on a rack above the tire.

Source: https://st-logistika.com/kak-zatochit-tsep-benzopily-dlya-prodolnogo-pileniya/