How to solder an aluminum canister - Metals and their processing

How to seal an aluminum flask at home

There is a widespread belief that it is impossible to solder or tin aluminum (as well as alloys based on it) without special equipment for this.

Two factors are cited as an argument:

upon contact with air, a chemically resistant and refractory oxide film (AL2O3) is formed on the surface of the aluminum part, resulting in an obstacle to the tinning process;
The soldering process is significantly complicated by the fact that aluminum melts at a temperature of 660°C (for alloys this ranges from 500 to 640°C). In addition, the metal loses strength when, during the heating process, its temperature rises to 300°C (for alloys up to 250°C), which can cause a violation of the stability of aluminum structures.

Considering the above factors, it is truly impossible to solder aluminum using conventional means. The use of strong fluxes in combination with the use of special solders will help solve the problem. Let us consider these materials in detail.

Solder

Commonly used low-melting solder bases are tin (Sn), lead (Pb), cadmium (Cd), bismuth (Bi) and zinc (Zn). The problem is that aluminum is practically insoluble in these metals (with the exception of zinc), which makes the connection unreliable.

By using a flux with high activity and properly treating the joints, you can use tin-lead solder, but it is better to avoid such a solution. Moreover, a solder joint based on the Sn-Pb system has low corrosion resistance. Applying a paint coating to the soldering area allows you to get rid of this drawback.

For soldering aluminum parts, it is advisable to use solder based on silicon, copper, aluminum, silver or zinc. For example 34A, which consists of aluminum (66%), copper (28%) and silicon (6%), or the more common TsOP-40 (Sn - 60%, Zn - 40%).

Domestic solder – TsOP-40

Note that the higher the percentage of zinc in the solder, the stronger the connection and the higher its resistance to corrosion.

High-temperature solder is considered to be solder consisting of metals such as copper, silicon and aluminum. For example, like the above-mentioned domestic solder 34A, or its foreign analogue “Aluminium-13”, which contains 87% aluminum and 13% silicon, which allows soldering at temperatures from 590 to 600°C.

"Aluminum-13" produced by Chemet

When choosing a flux, it is necessary to take into account that not all of them can be active towards aluminum. We can recommend using products from a domestic manufacturer for such purposes - F-59A, F-61A, F-64, they consist of ammonium fluoroborates with the addition of triethanolamine. As a rule, the bottle is marked “for aluminum” or “for aluminum soldering.”

Domestic flux

For high-temperature soldering, you should purchase flux produced under the brand 34A. It consists of potassium chloride (50%), lithium chloride (32%), sodium fluoride (10%) and zinc chloride (8%). This composition is most optimal if high-temperature soldering is performed.

Recommended flux for packing at high temperatures

Surface preparation

Before you begin tinning, you must complete the following steps:

degrease the surface using acetone, gasoline or any other solvent;
remove the oxide film from the place where soldering will be performed. For cleaning, use sandpaper, an abrasive wheel or a brush with steel wire bristles. As an alternative, etching can be used, but this procedure is not so common due to its specificity.

It should be taken into account that it will not be possible to completely remove the oxide film, since a new formation will immediately appear in the cleaned area. Therefore, stripping is carried out not with the goal of completely removing the film, but to reduce its thickness in order to simplify the task of the flux.

Heating the soldering area

To solder small parts, you can use a soldering iron with a power of at least 100W. Massive items will require a more powerful heating tool.

Soldering iron 300 Watt

The best option for heating is to use a gas burner or blowtorch.

Simple gas burner

When using a burner as a heating tool, the following nuances should be taken into account:

Do not overheat the base metal, as it may melt. Therefore, it is necessary to regularly monitor the temperature during the process. This can be done by touching the solder to the heated element. Melting the solder will let you know that the required temperature has been reached;
Oxygen should not be used to enrich the gas mixture, since it promotes strong oxidation of the metal surface.

Soldering instructions

The process of soldering aluminum parts does not have its own distinctive features; it is carried out in the same way as with steel or copper.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

the soldering area is degreased and cleaned;
the parts are fixed in the desired position;
the connection area heats up;
touch the solder rod (containing active flux) to the joint. If flux-free solder is used, then flux is applied to destroy the oxide film, after which a solid piece of solder is rubbed over the soldering area.

Hole in a pan: how to seal it

When your favorite pan leaks, you can bring it back to life by sealing the hole. In the same way, you can extend the service life of any metal kitchen utensils (kettle, water ladle).

At the same time, todid.ru recommends that from the very beginning you approach soldering according to all the proper rules, so that with further use the patch does not leak again.

To fix a hole in your favorite pan using soldering, we will need:

Prepare the material for the patch (copper plate)
Clean surfaces (sandpaper/file)
Perform degreasing and soldering (gasoline / acetone / solder / flux / soldering acid / soldering iron)

And now about all this in order.

1. PREPARATION FOR WORK

In the case of a small hole in the pan, you will need very little aluminum wire and tin solder. Larger holes are patched by applying a copper patch to the leaky area of the cookware. This is the main secret of how to repair an enamel pan. For soldering using a copper plate, the cut-out patch should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the hole in the pan.

2. CLEANING SURFACES

When all the necessary tools and consumables are prepared, you can begin cleaning the surfaces. To do this we use:

needle file
file
sandpaper

Surfaces must be cleaned of plaque, rust, scale, corrosion, etc. If soldering is done with a copper patch, the platinum is cleaned to a shine.

3. DEGREASING SURFACES

The next step is to treat the surfaces with solvent, gasoline, acetone, and then with flux (which will remove all remaining contaminants and oxide films). If there is no flux, it is reasonable to replace it with “soldering acid” / “soldering liquid”, which is freely sold in any specialized store.

4. SOLDERING

The soldering iron heats up and lowers its tip into rosin or ammonia to clean oxide films. When a slight haze appears, you know that the soldering iron is ready for use!

We touch the solder with the tool until the soldering iron tip is covered with a characteristic film. Having grabbed a little solder, we transfer it to the soldering site and level it along the edges of the hole in the pan (from the outside and inside). Thus, we tinned the places of future soldering.

In the same way, pieces of solder are gradually transferred to the place of the hole, with which the hole in the pan is sealed. Small gaps can be filled entirely with solder.

In the case of overlaying a plate (to repair an enamel pan), solder is surrounded around the nearby surface of the hole and a copper plate is placed on top of the solder. To achieve better bonding of metals, the plate must also be heated from above with a soldering iron. It is important to ensure that the surfaces of the patch and the pan are in contact as tightly as possible. The resulting gaps are filled with solder.

5. PREPARATION FOR USE

After the solder has cooled and the pan has been patched, the surface of the patch can be sanded with the same sandpaper to give the soldering area a neater appearance.

Additions and notes

When soldering aluminum pans, they proceed a little differently. After cleaning the surfaces, they are immediately filled with rosin melt prepared in advance. This will avoid the formation of oxide films, which appear on aluminum products in a matter of seconds.

In addition, to solder an aluminum pan, you will need a more powerful soldering iron (minimum 100 Watt). The following mixture is required as solder:

80-95% tin
5-20% bismuth

Stearin/paraffin should be used as a flux.

In general, soldering a hole in an aluminum pan (repairing an enamel pan) is only slightly more difficult than in a copper or metal one. Show patience and endurance, and the desired result will not keep you waiting. The reward will be a repaired pan, which can be used for its intended purpose for many years to come instead of going to a landfill or metal collection point!

Source: https://todid.ru/home-life/590-dyra-v-kastryule-kak-zapayat.html

How to solder an aluminum canister at home - Metals, equipment, instructions

The procedure for soldering aluminum elements at home is a very problematic process, which is facilitated by the use of special materials.

The work is complicated by the immediate appearance of a thin oxide film at the stripping site, which interferes with soldering. An additional difficulty is created by the material itself, which has a low melting point (+660 °C).

Using solder for soldering aluminum, special strong fluxes and following technology, you can independently solder almost any aluminum object.

Features and principles of soldering

The low temperature value of metal melting complicates the technological process of soldering, as well as repairing products with your own hands.

Parts very quickly lose strength when heated, and structures reduce stability when the temperature reaches 300 degrees.

Low-melting solders consisting of bismuth, cadmium, indium, and tin come into difficult contact with aluminum and do not provide sufficient strength. Excellent solubility is observed in the metal in combination with zinc, which makes the soldered areas highly reliable.

Before soldering begins, aluminum elements are well cleaned of oxides and dirt. To do this, you can use mechanical force with brushes or use special fluxes made from a potent composition. Before the procedure itself, be sure to tin the areas to be treated.

The tin coating will protect the part from the formation of oxides. In order to reliably solder aluminum products, it is necessary to choose the right heating tool, taking into account the volume of metal being processed.

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In addition, the reliability of the connection depends on the alloy chosen, as well as the flux for soldering aluminum.

Soldering methods

Soldering of aluminum products is carried out with an electric soldering iron, a blowtorch or a gas torch. There are three ways to solder various aluminum objects:

with rosin;
using solders;
electrochemical method.

With rosin

This option for soldering aluminum objects, wires, cables is used for small parts.

To do this, the cleaned section of the electrical wire is covered with rosin and placed on a piece of sandpaper with a medium grain size. The wire is pressed from above with the tinned tip of a heated soldering iron.

This action is carried out several times, after which the procedure of soldering the electrical wires itself is performed. You can use a rosin solution in diethyl ether.

In this case, the end of the soldering iron is not removed from the end being tinned, but rosin is added on top. An electric soldering iron with a power of about 50 W is suitable for twisting thin aluminum wires. With an aluminum thickness of about 1 mm, a 100 W soldering iron is required, and parts larger than 2 mm require preheating of the joint.

Using solders

This method is the most common and is used in electrical engineering, in the repair of automobile parts, as well as other products. Before soldering aluminum, the area to be soldered is pre-coated with an alloy and the tin-plated elements are subsequently connected. Pre-tinned parts are connected to each other, as well as to other alloys and metals.

Soldering of elements can be carried out using light alloy solders containing tin, zinc, and cadmium. In addition, refractory materials based on aluminum are actively used.

Why are light alloy compounds used? Because they allow you to solder an aluminum product at temperatures up to 400 degrees. This does not produce qualitative changes in the properties of the metal and maintains its strength.

Compositions with cadmium and tin do not create sufficient contact reliability and are susceptible to corrosive effects. Refractory materials containing zinc, copper, and aluminum-based silicon do not have these disadvantages.

Electrochemical method

This procedure requires a plating facility. With its help, copper plating is carried out on the surface of a product or wire. In its absence, independent processing of the part is used.

To do this, apply a few drops of a saturated solution of copper sulfate to the area cleaned with sandpaper.

After this, the negative pole of an independent power supply is connected to the workpiece.

They can be a battery, an accumulator, or any electrical rectifier.

A cleaned copper wire with a diameter of about 1 mm, located in an insulated stand, is connected to the positive terminal.

During the electrolysis process, copper will gradually deposit on the part, after which the area is tinning and dried using an electric soldering iron. After this, you can easily solder the tinned area.

Solders, materials, fluxes

Soldering of aluminum with tin is carried out subject to the use of highly active fluxes, as well as good cleaning of parts of the parts. Such tin compounds require additional coating with special compounds, since they have low strength and poor protection against corrosion processes.

How to solder aluminum elements? High-quality solder joints are obtained by using solders with silicon, aluminum, zinc, and copper. These materials are produced by both domestic and many foreign manufacturers.

Domestic brands of rods are represented by the most used solders TsOP40, which according to GOST contain 60% tin and 40% zinc, as well as 34A (aluminum - 66%, silicon - 6%, copper - 28%). The zinc used gives high strength to the contact area and provides good corrosion resistance.

These alloys are used to work with large-sized parts (radiators, pipes) with high heat dissipation using a heating pad or objects made of aluminum alloys that have a fairly high melting temperature. Novice repairmen can familiarize themselves with the soldering process by watching an instructional video. This will help to avoid many unpleasant nuances during the work process.

In addition to solders, aluminum soldering requires the use of special fluxes containing ammonium fluoroborate, zinc fluoroborate, as well as triethanolamine and other elements.

The most popular is the domestic F64, which has increased chemical activity. It can be used even without first removing the oxide film from products.

In addition to it, 34A is used, containing lithium, potassium and zinc chlorides, as well as sodium fluoride.

Preparation of products

Reliability, as well as excellent quality of connections, is ensured not only by using the right technology, but also by preparatory work. These include the treatment of sealed surfaces. It is necessary to remove contaminants and thin oxide films.

Mechanical processing is carried out using sandpaper, a metal brush, stainless steel wire mesh or a grinding machine. In addition, various acid solutions are used for cleaning.

Surface degreasing is carried out using solvents, as well as gasoline or acetone. On the cleaned aluminum area, an oxide film appears almost immediately, but its thickness is significantly lower than the original one, which facilitates the soldering process.

Heating tools

How to solder aluminum at home? Electric soldering irons are used to solder small-sized aluminum products at home. They are a universal tool, quite convenient for soldering wires, repairing small tubes and other elements.

They require a minimum of working space, as well as the presence of an electrical network. Repair of large-sized products and welding are performed with a gas torch that uses argon, butane, and propane.

To solder aluminum objects at home, you can use a standard blowtorch.

When using gas burners, it is necessary to constantly monitor their flame, which characterizes a balanced supply of oxygen and gases. With the correct gas mixture, the fiery tongue has a bright blue color. A dim hue, as well as a small flame, indicate an excess of oxygen.

Technological process

The technology for soldering aluminum objects is similar to the process of joining parts of other metal materials. The first step is to clean and degrease the areas of future adhesion. Then the connected elements are installed in working position for ease of processing.

Flux is applied to the prepared area, and the initially cold product begins to heat up using an electric soldering iron or a torch. As the temperature rises, the solder bar begins to melt, which must constantly touch the surface of the elements, controlling the heating process.

Soldering aluminum elements at home with an electric soldering iron is done in a well-ventilated room, as hazardous compounds are released during operation.

Using flux-free solder requires compliance with some nuances. To prevent the oxide film from interfering with the alloy getting onto the parts, the end of the rod makes scratching movements along the area where the elements are soldered. This breaks the oxide integrity and the solder comes into contact with the metal being processed.

Destruction of the oxide layer during soldering can be done using another method. To do this, the area to be treated is scratched with a metal brush or a stainless steel rod.

To ensure maximum strength of aluminum parts in the soldered area, the treated areas are pre-tinned. Compliance with the technology of soldering aluminum elements guarantees excellent quality of the connection, as well as its protection against corrosion.

Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/kak-zapayat-alyuminievuyu-kanistru-v-domashnih-usloviyah/

How to solder an aluminum radiator: step-by-step instructions and recommendations

Most modern cars are equipped with aluminum radiators. This metal is lightweight, has good anti-corrosion properties, and also has excellent thermal conductivity. In addition, it is significantly cheaper than copper and brass, from which radiators were previously made.

However, aluminum also has a drawback. If a copper (brass) heat exchanger, if damaged, could be repaired without any problems by yourself by soldering the problem area in the usual way, then with an aluminum radiator such a problem will not work. It's all about the chemical properties of this metal. But nothing is impossible. In this article we will look at why an aluminum radiator leaks, how to solder the problem area and what tools will be required for this.

About some features of aluminum

This metal was not chosen by chance for the manufacture of automotive heat exchangers. The fact is that aluminum and most of its alloys have an oxide film that forms a natural barrier that protects against corrosion. This film has high temperature and chemical resistance.

It actively resists conventional fluxes and prevents the application of solder. It can only be destroyed by mechanical surface treatment and special mixtures. This is why it is difficult to restore an aluminum radiator.

We’ll talk a little later about how to solder and, most importantly, how to prepare it for this procedure, but now let’s look at the main reasons why a heat exchanger most often fails.

Despite the fragility of the design, the radiator can last for years. Its main enemies are low-quality coolant and foreign objects that can cause mechanical damage.

Antifreeze or antifreeze themselves are not very active substances that can destroy the protective oxide film, and they practically do not react with pure aluminum.

But if the coolant does not meet the required chemical standards, it promotes corrosion processes, as a result of which the honeycomb walls of the device are gradually destroyed.

Mechanical damage to the radiator most often occurs during road traffic accidents, collisions with curbs, tree stumps, etc. In addition, the device may be accidentally damaged during car repairs. In any case, the result is the same - leakage from a broken cell.

The size of the hole determines the possibility of repair. If the heat exchanger is not seriously damaged, and the size of the problem area is several square centimeters, you can try to restore it.

There is no other option to repair an aluminum radiator (we’ll figure it out later on how to solder it).

We begin repairing the heat exchanger by draining the coolant and removing the device from the car. Next, it must be rinsed with clean running water and dried. If the damage to the radiator is visible, and you are sure that except for it the device is intact, you can begin preparing the problem area for repair. But if the exact location of the hole (crack) is unknown or approximately known, a more detailed check will be required before soldering the aluminum radiator.

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To implement this, we will need a large container of water (you can use a bathtub), a compressor or a pump. The method of searching for the location of the damage is similar to that used to search for the location of a tire puncture. Only here we need to close the lid of the device, as well as all the pipes except one (the thinnest). We immerse the device in water and supply air to it using a compressor or pump. The escaping air bubbles will indicate the exact location of the damage.

How and with what to solder or seal an aluminum radiator

Let's move on to the next stage. Having found the problem area and assessed the scale of future work, it’s time to think about how to prepare an aluminum radiator for repair, how to solder it correctly and what means and tools will be required for this. Let us immediately note that it will not be possible to repair a car heat exchanger using a household soldering iron and rosin. Here you need:

powerful soldering iron;
special flux or flux;
solder of special composition;
pliers;
set of files;
sandpaper;
acetone.

Let's take a closer look at the main tools and tools.

Soldering iron

As for the soldering iron, it must have a power of at least 250 W. Only with such a tool can the surface of the metal be properly heated so that it can successfully bond with the solder. You can also use soldering irons, which are heated using an open flame. But the best option is a small gas burner (blowtorch) running on a mixture of propane and butane. It will easily heat the area being treated and melt any solder.

Flux

Before soldering the radiator, you will have to take care of the flux. It is this that ensures a reliable connection between the solder and the metal surface being repaired. You can either buy flux or make it yourself. You can purchase it at any store specializing in the sale of radio components. The packages of Russian fluxes intended for soldering aluminum usually have a corresponding inscription. Also, their name may contain the markings F-59A, F-61A, 34A, etc.

How to solder a car radiator at home without buying flux? Is it possible to do it yourself? Yes, you can make flux yourself. It, of course, will not have the same properties as the factory one, but it will cope with its task.

To make it, you only need two ingredients: rosin and iron filings. You can probably find rosin at home, and shavings can be obtained by processing any iron part with a file. All this needs to be mixed in a small fireproof container and heated over a fire.

The resulting mixture is the simplest flux for aluminum.

To obtain a more durable connection between solder and metal, you can make a so-called flux. To do this, you need to mix the following substances in the following proportions:

potassium chloride – 56%;
lithium chloride – 23%;
cryolite – 10%;
coarse table salt – 7%;
sodium sulfate – 4%.

The ingredients need to be crushed, mixed and poured into an airtight glass container. Store flux in a place protected from direct sunlight.

How to solder an aluminum car radiator with your own hands

Let's move on to the soldering process. First, the problem area is thoroughly cleaned with a file and sandpaper. If there are lamellas on it, they must be carefully removed with pliers. Next, the repair area is degreased with acetone.

When preparation for soldering is completed, flux can be applied. After this, we begin to warm up the joint. If you use a gas torch or blowtorch, make sure that the flux does not burn out prematurely. It is easier to apply it with a soldering iron. It is enough to dip its working element in the mixture and transfer it to the surface to be treated.

Now it's time to apply the solder. It is better if it is in the form of a rod or wire. Solder is applied to the joint and thoroughly heated with a soldering iron (torch). When it spreads evenly, you need to let it cool, after which it is advisable to apply a second (safety) layer. At the end of the work, the resulting sagging can be removed using sandpaper.

Source: https://FB.ru/article/279020/radiator-alyuminievyiy-kak-zapayat-poshagovaya-instruktsiya-i-rekomendatsii

How to solder an aluminum canister at home - Metalworker's Guide

There is a widespread belief that it is impossible to solder or tin aluminum (as well as alloys based on it) without special equipment for this.

Two factors are cited as an argument:

upon contact with air, a chemically resistant and refractory oxide film (AL2O3) is formed on the surface of the aluminum part, resulting in an obstacle to the tinning process;
The soldering process is significantly complicated by the fact that aluminum melts at a temperature of 660°C (for alloys this ranges from 500 to 640°C). In addition, the metal loses strength when, during the heating process, its temperature rises to 300°C (for alloys up to 250°C), which can cause a violation of the stability of aluminum structures.

Cold welding for aluminum - varieties, tips for use

Cold welding for aluminum can be used in situations where it is not possible to use gas-shielded electric arc welding.

This technique is also relevant for aluminum because workpieces made of this metal are very difficult to connect with bolts and nuts.

The concept of “cold welding of aluminum” can mean both a method of joining parts made of this metal using deformation, and a technology that involves the use of special glue.

“Cold welding” most often means special glue, but there are also mechanical methods of cold welding - deformation welding

Cold welding of aluminum parts using special glue

Cold welding of aluminum parts, performed using a special adhesive composition, is a technology that allows you to obtain a permanent connection very quickly and without special surface preparation. Very often, this technique is used in cases where it is necessary to eliminate an emergency situation and quickly connect aluminum parts. Naturally, the simplicity of this technology allows it to be used most often at home.

Adhesive for fastening aluminum parts by cold welding

The special composition that is used to perform such welding is a two-component glue, produced in the form of mastic or a thick liquid. This glue (it can be purchased at almost any hardware store) consists of epoxy resin and steel powder, which serves to strengthen the joint being formed.

To improve the characteristics of the adhesive composition for cold welding (adhesion to the surfaces being joined, resistance to high temperatures and aggressive environments), special additives are added to its composition. Thanks to their use, the properties of the hardened adhesive composition often exceed the characteristics of the parts being connected in terms of strength and reliability.

Using two-component adhesive to fix the fitting in an aluminum alloy pipe

Any adhesive for cold welding - both liquid and in the form of mastic - consists of two components that must be mixed immediately before use.

It should be borne in mind that it is necessary to apply the mixed composition within 20–30 minutes (after half an hour it begins to actively harden).

After applying the adhesive composition to the surfaces of aluminum parts, they must be pressed together and kept in this state for 40–45 minutes. Complete hardening of the composition occurs within 2–2.5 hours.

In order to obtain a reliable connection in industrial or home conditions when using cold welding glue, it is necessary to first clean and degrease the surfaces to be joined. Using this method, you can not only join flat aluminum workpieces, but also weld small holes and cracks, spending a minimum of time and effort. The parts connected using cold welding adhesive withstand any mechanical stress well, except for tensile loads.

Cold welding repair of a broken car oil pan

The use of this method of cold welding of aluminum allows you to obtain strong and reliable connections, but has a number of limitations that you need to be aware of.

So, it is not recommended to use glue:

in places characterized by high temperatures;
in those places that are subject to increased environmental safety requirements;
for connecting parts whose operating conditions often change;
for sealing vessels and containers under high pressure;
for connecting parts operated in aggressive environments;
for sealing pipes and vessels in contact with liquid food media and food products.

It should also be noted the advantages of using cold welding adhesive, which make it a very popular means of joining aluminum parts:

elimination of oxidation processes at the junction of workpieces, which gives durability to such a connection;
ease of use;
minimum time required to form a permanent connection;
low price of the composition and no need to use special equipment and energy resources.

A short review of cold welding compounds common on the domestic market, based on reviews of people who have used them in practice.

PERMATEX Cold Weld
An effective and highly versatile adhesive that can be used with a variety of materials. Excellent resistance to pull-out and shear loads during testing.
"WURTH Liquid"
Excellent for working with metal parts.
“Abro Steel”
is well suited for repairing liquid storage tanks due to its high ability to ensure tightness.
"Titan"
Affordable price, excellent resistance to mechanical loads.
“Cold Weld PERMATEX”
Quite a popular composition that has earned a lot of positive reviews.

Deformation welding - technology features

Using this technology, aluminum parts are joined at room temperature, hence the name “cold welding.”

In order to obtain a permanent connection, the workpieces are subjected to significant plastic deformation, as a result of which the oxide film on the aluminum surface is destroyed.

In addition, the strong compression of aluminum parts against each other during the cold welding process helps to create intermolecular bonds between their crystal lattices.

An important condition for the formation of a reliable connection obtained using cold welding technology is thorough cleaning of the surfaces of the workpieces and their degreasing. The pressure that acts on the aluminum parts being connected can be static or with variable vibration.

Depending on the type of connection being formed, the following types of cold welding are distinguished:

butt;
point;
suture

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Butt method

When using this cold welding method, aluminum parts are connected by their end parts, which are first thoroughly cleaned and degreased.

In order to make a connection using this method, the workpieces are fixed in special jaws with a small release of the end parts, which will be subject to compression.

After the parts are securely fixed, axial pressure is applied to the clamping jaws, which compresses the end parts of the workpieces being connected, which is accompanied by the formation of a reliable permanent connection.

Scheme of butt cold deformation welding

This cold welding method, despite its simplicity, has a number of significant disadvantages and limitations in application.

The dimensions of the clamping devices used to perform such welding limit the length of the joint formed.
When aluminum parts are compressed, not only the ends being connected are subjected to plastic deformation, but also the part that is clamped in the jaws.
After obtaining a permanent connection, the workpieces are quite difficult to remove from the clamping jaws.

Point technology

This technology, which involves overlapping aluminum parts, is the most common method of cold welding of this metal. The workpieces to be joined are compressed at individual welding points, for which a special punch is used. According to this technology, parts are predominantly connected by several welding points located at a certain interval relative to each other.

Cold spot welding diagram

The quality of cold welding performed using spot technology directly depends on the degree of deformation of aluminum in the area of the weld spot. In numerical terms, this parameter characterizes the relationship between the thickness of the parts being connected and the depth to which the punch is pressed into the metal. There are standards according to which this parameter for aluminum should be 60–70%, and for alloys based on this metal – 75–90%.

Cold spot welding, which can be used to join fairly large sheets of aluminum and alloys based on this metal, has a number of advantages.

The parts to be connected do not require preliminary fixation in special clamping devices.
Aluminum is deformed in very small local areas - weld points.

If you have a mechanical device capable of creating significant pressure, cold welding using this technology can be performed at home.

Suture method

When using this cold welding method, the junction of aluminum workpieces takes the form of a continuous seam, which is formed using rotating rollers or a punch with a ring-shaped working part.

Scheme of the seam cold welding method

Pre-cleaned and degreased aluminum parts that need to be joined using cold seam welding are placed between one movable and one fixed roller (single-sided welding), or between two movable rollers (double-sided welding). After squeezing the rollers and the metal underneath them to the required depth, the movable rollers begin to rotate, which leads to the movement of the joined workpieces and the formation of a continuous seam.

The process of resistance seam welding on an industrial machine

The use of this technology makes it possible to weld even very large aluminum sheets, but the presence of a continuous seam pressed into the metal seriously weakens the structure. It is for this reason that when it is necessary to cold-weld flat aluminum sheet structures, spot-seam technology is used.

It involves obtaining a connection using a rotating roller on which working protrusions are located that exert pressure on the metal being welded. The seam in this case does not look like a solid line, but like an intermittent chain of welded points, which very slightly weaken the structure.

Source: http://met-all.org/obrabotka/svarka/holodnaya-svarka-dlya-alyuminiya.html

Soldering the gas tank with tin

Many drivers have encountered a situation where a leak appeared in the fuel tank, and for some reason it was impossible to replace it.

Repairing a gas tank involves a huge risk, so mistakes often lead to a tragic ending - gasoline vapors ignite, after which an explosion occurs with the release of open flame.

After reading the article, you will learn how to solder a gas tank yourself, what tools and materials to use, and also learn about the safety measures that must be followed.

Preparatory actions

Remove the gas tank from the car, take out the fuel pump and the plastic float of the fuel level sensor, and drain the fuel. When removing or disassembling the gas tank, do not damage the float or its holder, otherwise you will not be able to properly determine the fuel level. It is important to do these operations correctly, so carefully read the repair instructions for your machine.

Then rinse the tank with hot (at least 50 degrees) water and washing powder. This procedure must be carried out at least 3 times, this will completely remove remaining fuel and their vapors from the tank.

If you neglect it, fuel vapors can detonate due to high temperature. After washing, it is dried for 24 hours, then repairs begin.

How to solder a gas tank with your own hands? First of all, you need to select the necessary tools. Here's what you'll need:

gas burner (you can use a blowtorch);
soldering iron with a power of at least 300 watts (hatchet);
soldering acid;
rosin or flux;
solder;
a thin copper plate, 2–3 cm in length and width larger than the crack or hole in the tank;
sandpaper;
grinder or drill with a wire brush;
brush;
alcohol;
anti-corrosion paint.

Here is a description of how to solder a gas tank with your own hands. Once you have identified the damaged area, clean it of dirt and paint. This operation can be carried out using a grinder/drill with a stiff metal brush or cleaned with coarse sandpaper. For effective repair, the cleaned space should exceed the damaged area by 4–5 cm in each direction. Prepare a copper repair plate 0.5–1 mm thick.

If the damage is on a curved part, then it is necessary to shape the patch so that it fits tightly to the gas tank.

Having prepared the tank and patch, you need to clean them with sandpaper (you can use sandpaper of any size), then degrease them with alcohol. While the alcohol is drying, heat the soldering iron to such a temperature that it easily melts the solder. Apply acid to the surface of the gas tank with a brush and place a few pieces of rosin or gumboil on top.

Dip the soldering iron into the rosin and solder, then press it onto the rosin or flux applied to the tank. When the rosin melts, begin to smoothly move the soldering iron over the repair area until all the metal is covered with solder, this way you will tin it. In the same way, only without acid, tin the patch. Do not leave untreated areas as this may result in fuel leakage.

When all surfaces are tinned, apply a patch to the repair area and press the soldering iron against it for 5-15 minutes. You need to wait until the solder on both parts melts. When this happens, remove the soldering iron and press the patch without allowing it to move (you can use a screwdriver, pliers or other improvised tool for this).

When the repair area has completely cooled, treat it with anti-corrosion paint.

Plastic tank repair

To repair a plastic tank you will need:

soldering iron with a power of over 200 watts (hatchet);
pieces of the same tank;
metal mesh (steel or copper) with a pitch of no more than 1 mm;
alcohol;
brush;
sandpaper;
metal scissors;
jigsaw

If you decide to repair a plastic gas tank, then buy the same one. This can be done at a disassembly site or through an advertisement in the newspaper. Cut a piece from the repair gas tank that covers the damage by 3–5 cm in each direction.

It is very important to use the same plastic for repairs as the one from which the gas tank is made. Otherwise, there is a high probability that different plastics will not connect.

It is advisable to cut out the plastic from the same area of the repair tank where the damage is located. If this is not possible, do not worry, because you can even seal the fuel tank with several pieces of plastic.

Using metal scissors, cut a piece of mesh of suitable size and shape. Clean the surface of the tank with coarse sandpaper, then degrease it and the mesh with alcohol. Heat the soldering iron to such a temperature that it easily melts the plastic, place the mesh on the tank and fuse it into the plastic. Do not press hard or hold the soldering iron in one place for more than 2-3 seconds, so as not to push or deform the fuel tank.

This is especially important where the fuel pump or float is located. It is not necessary to completely recess the mesh into the plastic; it is enough that both materials are connected. Clean and degrease the patch, place it on the tank and start heating it. It is necessary to fuse it with plastic and metal mesh. Do not press hard, do not hold the soldering iron in one place for more than 3-5 seconds, so as not to push through the plastic.

When the patch has completely cooled, the plastic tank will stop leaking.

Aluminum tank repair

To repair the tank you will need:

aluminum solder HTS-2000;
gas-burner;
hard metal brush;
alcohol.

Clean the damaged area of the tank from dirt and degrease with alcohol. When the alcohol dries, heat the metal surface using a gas torch. The burner flame should be small and bright blue. Move the flame constantly to heat the entire area being repaired. When the solder starts to melt, pour it over the entire repair area.

Continue to heat the repair area so that the solder does not cool down and carefully scrub the metal of the fuel tank with a brush (instead of a brush you can use a nail over 200 mm long, but you will have to scrub for at least 5 minutes). This will remove the oxide layer and the solder will bond to the aluminum. Make sure the solder completely covers the repair area and there are no cracks or holes left anywhere.

When it cools down, the tank is ready for use.

Installing a tank on a car

Plug all the holes in the tank and connect it to the pump. Pump air under a pressure of 1.5 atmospheres and coat the entire surface of the tank with soap solution. If no air comes out anywhere, you have successfully sealed the fuel tank. Place the tank on the car, connect all the hoses, install the fuel pump and fuel level sensor float. Tighten all clamps. The car is ready for use. Now you have learned how to repair a gas tank and can repair your car yourself.

Source: https://rem-serv.com/payka-benzobaka-olovom/