How to disassemble a magnet

How to disassemble the magnet from the speaker?

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Question for experts: how to remove a round magnet from a speaker?)

Best regards, Boris

Best answers

wrap a hammer around the hammer so that it’s not too hard, but not too soft, and slowly knock it down; it’s glued on with glue; I removed about a dozen of them when I was a kid!

heat it on a gas stove and suddenly it will come off easily

I usually don't ask such questions. I take it and shoot it. Try it with a comfortable screwdriver, carefully.

The magnet is attached with rivets and/or glue. Depending on how important the result is, choose: 1. hammer (Bang and a miracle happened:))

2. Poking around with a strong screwdriver, trying to tear it off (you will swear, the first method is better :)))

The only reliable way is to heat it with a gas burner (NOT TO RED!). Each plate separately. After heating, knife and hammer. Separates easily. Wear welder's leather gloves on your hands; -)

answer

This video will help you figure it out

Answers from experts

Try to cut grooves with a file, and then try to break it along these grooves.
Good luck

I quote an expert: “Actually, everyone saws them.

Buy yourself a diamond blade with a diameter of 124 and a thickness of 0.3. These are sold for 200 rubles in power tool stores.

Put it on any engine, about 1500-2000 revolutions, so that you don’t have to cool it, make a device out of pieces of wood to nail the engine, and so that there is a stop for the magnet and drink for yourself. Just don’t think about pouring water to cool it.

Otherwise, magnetic dust will not be carried away from the gap, and the disk will get stuck. A 10 mm thick magnet is sawed at a speed of 2-2.5 mm in 5 minutes. The effort is small. You can pick it up with your hand. So that the disc does not wear out too much. "

I tried to saw, break, crumble, but I realized that it became a magnet only after taking shape.
Because hard magnetic ferrites are ceramics, they are very brittle and prone to breaking when impacted or bent.

remove the nets, they are removable

Why did you throw speakers around in the forest?

Source: https://dom-voprosov.ru/prochee/kak-razobrat-magnit-ot-dinamika

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Acoustics are an integral part of any sound reproduction system. It is she who is responsible for converting the electrical signal into air vibrations, that is, sound itself. The design of the modern dynamic driver was developed at the end of the 19th century, and since then it has only been improved to ensure high fidelity.

There are several types of speakers, of those used in caraudio, the most common is diffuser. Such emitters are designed as follows: a cylindrical magnet, with a hole inside which a coil wound with copper or aluminum wire on a frame, usually made of Kapton, is located and moves.

The coil is fixed to the diffuser, and the diffuser is suspended and centered in the basket using a washer and hanger.

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How to remove a magnet from a speaker with your own hands without breaking it

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You can also view more detailed information about the portal and contact the administration. Daily audience of the Prose portal. Each column contains two numbers: the number of views and the number of visitors. The portal operates under the auspices of the Russian Writers Union. Gravity and magnet from the speaker Danilov Vladimir.

This one is just thinking out loud.

The second is about a gradual decrease to zero in the center - this seems more realistic to me, but it also doesn’t suit me and here’s why - let’s imagine that we are in the center - the gravitational forces from the external mass are compensated, but they have not disappeared and if the substance inside is granular, then it will be stretched by these forces. As an analogue of the behavior of gravitational forces, I propose to consider the behavior of magnetic forces of attraction from a circular magnet. Everyone can check this for themselves - just disassemble the old speaker with a magnet in the form of a ring.

What can you see if you study the behavior of magnetic forces of attraction? A metal object, such as a nail, will be attracted when approached from all sides, as in the case of the attraction of masses from gravitational forces.

In the center, the same nail is not attracted anywhere, as in the assumption about the behavior of the gravel. If you place not one, but several nails in the center, they will immediately crumble and be attracted to the inner edge of the magnet. That is, the assumption about the behavior of the bulk substance is confirmed.

This fourth point is very interesting and raises great doubts about how the behavior of gravitational forces is interpreted by geophysics. Let us call this spherical plane the sphere of equilibrium.

If the behavior of grav. This can be explained in another way. And so on until equilibrium is established. There are two such places - on the sphere and in the center. The maximum density of the planet's substance is formed precisely on, and on both sides of, this sphere of equilibrium. Inside, in the center, of the planet there will be a substance with the lowest possible density and specific gravity for such enormous pressure. Temperature convection inside the equilibrium sphere will be directed towards the center of the planet, and outside - towards the outer surface.

That's it. Does anyone have any thoughts? There are 3 reviews written for this work, the last one is displayed here, the rest are in the full list.

Neodymium magnets in technology

Source: https://all-audio.pro/c12/datashiti/kak-razobrat-magnit-ot-dinamika.php

Where to get a neodymium magnet at home

Neodymium magnets have powerful attraction and stable magnetic field. They have high resistance to demagnetization and retain their properties for a long time.

The scope of application of neodymium magnets is quite wide, so having such an item always at hand will be very useful. It turns out that they are contained in headphones, stepper motors and other devices. To get a neodymium magnet at home, just disassemble the device using a regular screwdriver.

Headphones

Small neodymium beckons are easy to spot in old headphones. Any models will do. The disassembly procedure takes no more than 2-3 minutes, and you will have a real magnet in your hands. Depending on the type of headphones, the size, shape and strength of the magnet may vary.

Hard drive for computer

Used data storage hard drives contain more powerful neodymium magnets. To disassemble the device, it is best to use older models released for PC. In modern devices, magnets are not very powerful, but they also have all the characteristics and properties.

The magnetic plate in appearance resembles a horseshoe measuring 3-4 mm, so disassembling the device should be done very carefully. The alloy is brittle and is firmly connected with an adhesive base to a steel platform. Because of this feature of the fastening, to disassemble the hard drive you will need to arm yourself not only with a screwdriver, but also with risks and another heavy object such as a hammer or chisel.

How to get it:

1. One end of the plate must be firmly secured in a vice, and a strong but gentle blow must be applied to the opposite end.
2. Pry the end of the magnet with a chisel and remove it from the device.
3. If the neodymium is glued, it will be possible to slightly heat the plate. However, you cannot increase the temperature too much, otherwise the magnet will lose its basic properties.

The CD/DVD drive is disassembled in a similar way.

Furniture latches

A powerful magnet is easy to detect in furniture fittings. Neodymium is often used inside the latches to hold the doors in place. Such magnets do not have very high power, so they are suitable only for certain purposes.

Engines and generators

The most popular device that can be used to extract neodymium is a stepper motor. It can be found inside any office equipment that has broken down.

Usually in motors the magnet is located among the rotor elements. The magnetic ring is placed on a rod and sandwiched between plastic wheels. To remove the part, a vice and a screwdriver are suitable, which you need to carefully knock out the axle.

It is important to remember that the alloy is brittle and breaks easily. That is why during operation it is necessary to firmly clamp only one upper gear. If the magnetic ring is secured with glue, you will need to heat the part with a hairdryer or lightly tap it with the back of a screwdriver.

Neodymium rings are not found in older model engines, which previously used a conventional ferromagnet. It is also quite powerful and can be used for a variety of purposes.

Conclusion

• Neodymium magnet is found in various electrical appliances and devices that are easy to disassemble with a screwdriver and a vice.
• To remove the magnet, you must act carefully and carefully so as not to damage the fragile alloy.
• At home, it is easy to obtain neodymium, which has all the basic properties and characteristics.
• The most suitable devices for obtaining a neodymium magnet are failed stepper motors, speakers, drives, and even furniture latches.

When using materials from thebestvideo.ru, a link to the source is required.

Source: https://thebestvideo.ru/fun/poleznosti/neodimovyj-magnit/

How to remove a magnet from clothes

Clothes magnets are installed in almost every store; they do not allow you to bring in clothes without paying for them. But sometimes, due to inattention, the cashier may not notice the tag or forget about it and not remove it. Often several magnets are hung on an item. Having discovered a find at home, the question immediately arises of what to do and how best to proceed.

What to do if store consultants forgot to remove a magnet from clothes

You should not throw away the receipt immediately after purchase; it may still be useful. In this case, the best option would be to go to the store where the item was purchased, show the cash receipt and ask to remove the tag. The consultant, having examined the receipt and made sure that the purchase has been paid for, will remove the magnet on the clothing in a couple of seconds with a magnet to remove the protection from the item.

If the receipt has not been saved, or there is no opportunity to go to the store in the near future, do not be upset - you can remove the protection at home.

Before you remove the store tag, you should figure out which one is exactly on your purchase.

Inexpensive and small items are often labeled with sticker tags that can be peeled off without any problems or effort; they are not even removed in stores.

There may be a radio tag, they are most often small in size and without a surprise inside - you can remove them at home without difficulty, the purchased item will not be damaged in any way.

If your purchase includes a magnetic-acoustic device, then problems may arise - such tags are larger in size and stronger, and in this case you cannot do without the help of foreign objects. You should be careful with these clips, because... they may contain a capsule of paint that can ruin the item.

Quickly remove the magnet from clothes after purchase

If you haven't made it to the store, try the following:

1. You can remove a magnetic tag from clothing using a strong magnetic device and a knife. A knife with a thin blade is inserted under the top clip, and a magnetic device is applied on top. Despite the fact that the device is quite strong, the tag is removed after just a few seconds - the upper part is simply demagnetized and remains on the magnet, and the lower part is removed without effort.
2. You can remove a magnet from clothes at home using cold. The purchased item must be placed in the freezer for an hour. After the magnet freezes, an elastic band is pulled under the upper clip (the clip is turned in different directions until the elastic rests all the way). After this, the store tag needs to be split with a hammer or other object.
3. The pliers will help you disassemble the top clip and remove everything inside. The method is quite complex and requires care. It will be easier to do this with two people, one disassembles the clip, and the second holds the clips and does not allow them to connect.
4. To remove a magnet from clothing, you will need a file. The tag rod is simply sawn into 2 parts. This method is quite dangerous; often the tags contain paint, which will be problematic to wash off.

The listed methods work, but are not entirely safe for the fabric - in these ways it can be accidentally cut or wiped. Magnets for removing protection from clothing are often tightly attached - if a girl wants to remove the tag, she may not be able to do anything.

How to remove magnets from clothes without damage

A few more ways:

1. One of the best options is to purchase a magnet for removing clips from clothes. Magnets for clothing stores can be purchased online. They cost around 2000 rubles. You should be more careful, because... Not all tags are demagnetized by every device.
2. When you can’t go to the store where you bought the item, you can try going to any other one - every department has magnets for removing sewing from clothes. But it’s not a fact that they will be able to help with the problem. Employees have every right to refuse. If you have friends or relatives who work as a consultant, you can ask them to remove the tag at work - if this does not contradict the store rules, they are unlikely to refuse help.
3. It is worth trying to demagnetize the tag using the intercom on the door. Often the keys on intercoms are strong and can help with the problem. One of the sides of the clip is brought close to the key on the intercom - if it is strong enough, the tag will be removed.
4. Rubber bands can help remove the protection. The elastic is pushed under the top clip until it stops. As soon as the elastic is in place, the clips turn in different directions. This may take a lot of time and effort, but the clips will move away from each other and then it will be possible to remove the clips.

How to remove a magnet using a lighter and a screwdriver

How to remove clips from an item - use a lighter and a screwdriver (separately or together):

1. Use a lighter to melt the clips. Once it becomes possible to remove the spring from the inside of the protection, the lighter will no longer be needed. Now the main thing is to disassemble the magnet. First of all, you need to remove the spring that creates pressure, after which the container with paint, if any, is removed. Then, using any narrow object, the magnet is picked up and pulled out; a screwdriver can also work.
2. Using a screwdriver, pry the tag off from below, then you need to press hard on the handle of the tool and try to lift the magnet up. The other side of the tag must be kept down. Here it will take a lot of effort to lift 1 of the sides of the magnet. It is important to do everything quickly and sharply.

If the protection ends up on your shoes, you can remove it using the same methods. The easiest way is to use a magnet - this way the purchase will definitely not be spoiled.

It is possible to remove the clips at home, but it will require patience, effort and accuracy. If you do something wrong, then the thing will be damaged - then it will be a shame for the money spent.



Source: https://uborka-v-dome.ru/odezhda/kak-snyat-magnit-s-odezhdy.html

How to remove a magnet from a speaker

An acquaintance gave me two broken speakers as unnecessary, and I just need a large magnet for one homemade project. In this issue, we will test two methods and find out which is more effective. The problem is that the magnet is held in place with very strong glue. Our task is to separate the magnet from the glue, let's start with the first method and a small magnet. We will need acetone and any container.

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How to remove a magnet from a speaker

I'll try to remove the magnet from the speaker. Speaker with a diameter of mm, released in Novosibirsk. The magnet must be powerful enough. I need magnets to place small tools on it. The magnet is attached to the wall and the tool will always be in sight. I only advise you to place magnets away from vices and other places where a lot of metal dust and shavings are generated when working with an angle grinder.

Dust will be attracted to the magnets. I once heard that a magnet can be peeled off from its base—a metal plate—by heating. Heating the surface softens the glue and the magnet is released. If you try to knock out the magnet, parts of it may remain on the plate. Therefore, this method is undesirable. I unscrew the fasteners and remove the aluminum cover. There is a copper blank at the bottom of the structure.

It can be seen that they have already tried to unscrew the magnet - the edges on the bolts that hold the bottom plate are torn off. I turn the speaker over and start using a torch to heat the surface of the top metal plate. When heated, the magnet may lose its properties, so the temperature must be adjusted. Using circular movements of the burner, I heat the surface of the plate. I periodically touch it with my hand to check the temperature.

After heating, I begin to beat off the metal plate with a chisel and hammer. You must work carefully because the surface is hot. After several blows, the plate begins to come off, and there is a smell of glue in the room. The edges of the copper ingot are in the way. You have to hit it several times with a hammer. After which the magnet with the top plate leaves the installation site.

The plate comes off easily and I have almost a whole magnet left in my hands. The method turned out to work quite well. The metal must be heated to 70 degrees for it to start burning your hand. The glue becomes soft and the metal plate can be separated. After this, warm it up a little more and you can start working with a chisel.

There is no other way to remove the magnet without damaging it. The magnet will either crack or partially remain on the flange-shaped metal plate. From the plate I will make a faceplate for the lathe. To do this, the plate must be sharpened.

The part is mounted to the faceplate and clamped with a bolt, and the faceplate is inserted into the lathe chuck. Previously, I had already obtained magnets with a diameter of mm from car speakers. The diameter of this magnet is mm. It is strong enough to attach a variety of tools to it, including a metal hammer. The item in the workshop is very useful. Do-it-yourself house foundation drainage. DIY heat gun. DIY metal detector: an original idea. Homemade generator: we get electricity from heat energy.

Source: https://moreremonta.info/strojka/kak-snjat-magnit-s-kolonki/

Where to get neodymium magnets for free: list of equipment

Where can I get neodymium magnets for free?

Neodymium magnets have a powerful magnetic field, so they can be used for a wide variety of purposes. These magnets are especially in demand among craftsmen who assemble wind generators, stop meters and find other, very effective uses for neodymium magnets.

The only thing that stops such people is the price, because the cost of neodymium magnets varies from several hundred rubles to several tens of thousands. Therefore, many of them are wondering where to get neodymium magnets for free, and from what equipment and equipment they can be removed.

This article from the construction magazine samastroyka.ru will talk about where you can find neodymium magnets, and in which equipment there are the most of them.

Where to get free neodymium magnets

A considerable amount of neodymium magnets are found in old PC hard drives. Therefore, if you have an unnecessary computer hard drive at home, do not rush to throw it away. These suspensions have neodymium magnets in hard drives.

You can also find them in furniture latches. In terms of power, such magnets cannot compete with neodymium magnets from hard drives, but, nevertheless, they will definitely be useful for making homemade products somewhere.

In addition, neodymium magnets can be obtained from the following list of equipment, devices, and tools:

1. From mobile phones, players (cameras, headphones and other places);
2. Unnecessary old hard drives from a computer;
3. From disk drives and stepper motors, headphones and more;
4. From broken scanners and printers;
5. From some tools and motors.

It should be understood that in many of the above products you will not be able to find powerful neodymium magnets, for example those used to stop the meter.

Therefore, in some cases, you need to look for them in other places.

More powerful neodymium magnets are found in oil filters, magnetic separators and some other products. In this case, you should carefully disassemble and remove such a magnet, since due to heating, it can easily ignite.

Neodymium magnets from speakers

You can also remove neodymium magnets from amplification speakers, as well as other similar equipment. Recently, manufacturers of various equipment are increasingly resorting to the use of neodymium magnets.

You can also find them in some parts for cars, as well as in children's toys (usually motors).

In general, there are a lot of equipment and things from which you can get free neodymium magnets. The main thing is to take a closer look at how this or that product is designed, and whether a magnetic field is needed for its operation. If yes, then perhaps it is in it that there is a neodymium magnet.

Source: https://samastroyka.ru/gde-besplatno-dostat-neodimovye-magnity.html

How to disassemble a magnet

How to remove a magnet from clothes

It often happens that, while shopping in a store, inattentive sales workers forget to remove the magnetic tags from some items.

In the future, they are only discovered at home, sometimes even a few days after purchase, and getting rid of such magnets turns out to be not so easy, but there are still ways.

I recommend using the tips presented below on how to remove magnets from clothes only in accordance with the law, without using them to commit illegal acts in supermarkets.

How to remove a magnet from clothes

First, I’ll tell you how to remove a magnet from clothing legally. This option is the least hassle if you still have the receipt and the store is nearby. You just need to return there with the receipt and the unopened item, contact the seller who has the necessary device and the magnet will be removed.

Otherwise, if the receipt was lost, or the purchases were made in another city, you will need accuracy, intelligence and straight hands that grow where necessary. Magnetic tags have a very clever design that reliably protects retail outlets from people who think that certain goods are in the wrong place.

If in a supermarket, this can be done at home. Different people offer different options. What works for one person will not necessarily work as well for another, so you do everything at your own peril and risk. Only you are responsible for the consequences of your actions.

When suddenly people have a question about how to remove a magnet from clothes, the force method seems to be the most obvious and fastest. Just take the thing and, swinging it well, hit it against a wall or any other hard surface, for example in the form of the head of a seller who forgot to remove the tag, if he were nearby at that moment. Naturally, this is not so civilized and cultural, but it gives an excellent idea of ​​the principle of operation of such mechanisms (I’m talking about magnets).

Thanks to this operation, you can find out that the manufacturers of magnetic tags took into account the likelihood of such a development of events and to protect against brute force, the magnetic beeper contains persistent dyes. Therefore, if you deliberately violate the integrity of the structure, the paint from the damaged tag will get onto the item, as a result of which irreparable damage may be caused to its appearance.

How to remove a magnet from clothes: carefully and skillfully

However, by approaching the problem more intelligently, you can discover absolutely safe, completely effective methods if you understand its structure. They have an intricate design with slight differences, but the principle is approximately the same everywhere.

These are nozzles with an iron rod, sometimes capsules with a coloring liquid, which, even if washed well, still glows in the ultraviolet for several days, a device for fixing the rod, springs, balls or plates, cones for them and all this disgrace is packed in a black or light case all kinds of shapes and sizes (up to 10 cm on the larger side).

Most tips on how to remove a magnet from clothing using heavy or sharp cutting objects carry some risk of damaging the product. There is no point in pulling the pin, as you will only block it even more tightly.

Of course, if by chance you have a box of tools lying around somewhere, then you can look for wire cutters there and try to pick out the body of the tag with them; for simplicity, you can first saw it off from different sides with a hacksaw for iron, or even “better”, burn holes in the body with a lighter or some metal thing heated over a fire. If you are in a store, then use the above methods only as a last resort.

The only normal and safe option is to use a strong magnet. You need to attach it to the protruding part of the beeper and it will easily come off. The spring in the housing creates additional pressure, so if this does not work, turn the magnet the other way or apply another one. Although, in my opinion, it’s easier to find a common language with the cashier at the nearest store. Choose for yourself, the most popular methods for removing a magnet from a thing have been described here.

Here's another original way to get rid of an unnecessary tag:

And finally, the original way is to melt a magnet.

What is a magnetic tag

This is a magnetic-acoustic anti-theft sensor in the form of a plastic clip.

It is equipped with:

• metal rod for clothes;
• balls and two different cones;
• protective spring for fixation;
• capsule with indelible paint.

When you try to open it, it closes even more or fails altogether. However, many ways have been found to remove the magnet safely.

The most common proven methods

You need to act extremely carefully, then it is possible to successfully remove the clips at home without special pullers.

Advice! Before removing the clip, it is recommended to place the item in the freezer so that the paint in the capsule hardens - there will be less risk of staining the clothes.

Methods without and with a magnet:

1. Scrunchy. The accessory is placed between the fabric and the convex part of the magnet, which rotates, and is pushed until the elastic hooks tightly and the rod is free - then you can begin to move both parts in different directions until they are completely open.
2. Lighter or candle. With the help of fire, the convex part is melted, after which the internal contents of the clip are removed and opened.
3. Wire cutters. The convex part of the magnet is cut off with a tool, then the protective mechanism is removed and the remains of the clip are removed.
4. Hacksaw for metal. A saw works on the same principle as wire cutters: they separate the head and disassemble the mechanism. For safety, keep the latch with the convex side up.
5. Round or square magnet. It is purchased in a specialized store. A magnet is applied to the rounded part and the clip opens easily. If you were unable to demagnetize the tag on your clothing the first time, you need to turn the magnet over to the other pole or take a more powerful one.
6. Screwdriver with drill. Drill out the middle until the needle comes away from the plastic. Then carefully disassemble.

Advice! A suitable magnet can be removed from a used hard drive (you will need up to 4 of them).

Any of these methods is effective, but the last one, with a magnet, is considered the safest. Forgotten clips on new clothes are a fairly common problem; fortunately, craftsmen have invented at least 5 methods to easily remove a magnetic lock without damaging your new clothes.

Many, traveling by train past various depots, warehouse buildings, workshops and other outbuildings that usually precede and accompany a large city, paid attention to the scrap metal collection site, where a large electromagnet usually works in order to lift and move parts, made from magnetic materials, such as plain black scrap metal. This mechanism first appeared in the 20th century, and significantly facilitated the work of workers preparing scrap metal for melting and sorting it. How does a scrap metal magnet work and how powerful is it?

How does an electromagnet work?

A special lifting electromagnet, or load gripper, is the most important part of a special magnetic crane. A magnet consists of a core and a winding. A ferromagnetic alloy is used as the core, and copper or aluminum wire is used as the winding.

When current passes through the winding, a strong magnetic field arises, which ceases to operate when the circuit is opened.

It must be said that when turned off, the electromagnet does not attract iron at all, as a permanent magnet does, otherwise it would be impossible to turn off this device.

Functions of an electromagnet

The load gripper lifts and carries steel, cast iron products, as well as other objects made of ferrous metals. Let us remember that these include all metals and alloys, the main component of which is iron. In addition, cobalt and nickel are “magnetic”. The temperature of these alloys should not exceed 500 C, since in this case the magnetic properties disappear or are significantly reduced. Therefore, magnets are not used in metallurgical shops.

The operating cycle of an electromagnet installed on a special crane or boom with a connected power cable consists of the following stages:

• Placing the core above the load;

• Metal to magnet contact;

• Lifting and moving to the right place;

• Transferring the magnet to its original position.

It is extremely important to observe safety precautions when working, since a strong magnetic field is contraindicated for people with metal implants and pacemakers. Yes, even a simple mechanical watch in the area of ​​influence of a magnet can deteriorate.

Interestingly, the magnet has a variable load capacity. This can be easily verified by experimenting with a conventional permanent magnet: the lifting force, the most important characteristic of an electromagnet, depends on the shape and composition of the product, as well as the area of ​​contact with the magnet, since the force decreases very quickly with distance. Thus, a flat and solid piece of rail attracts much better than a round pipe, despite the fact that it is much heavier.

Scope of use of magnet for scrap metal

The strength of such an electromagnet - up to several tens of tons - determines the scope of use: loading and unloading of ferrous scrap metal, rolled metal, bundles of pipes, fittings at metal depots, ports, production shops, finished product warehouses of metallurgical plants. The cranes can be used wherever there is the possibility of dry operating conditions, as well as the possibility of supplying a powerful power cable of 5-6 kilowatts, in terms of three-phase alternating current of 380 V.

Such electromagnets can be used in a special waterproof design to supply large metal structures for underwater construction, for example, for the construction of bridge supports, for raising sunken river and sea vessels in shallow water, which mainly lie on rocky soil. If a ship sinks into bottom sediments, the resulting “suction” force can be so strong that the magnet can come off even from a flat surface.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to use an electromagnet to find chipped and silver coins, which lie in abundance on the seabed.

Round electromagnet with built-in generator for scrap metal

Domestic samples of electromagnets

In Russia, one of the leaders in the production of electromagnetic lifting equipment is the Lipetsk Magnetic Plate Plant, as well as the domestic corporation Dr Vernikov Magnetics Group. For example, a special deep-field electromagnet MW – 230S is popular.

With a round magnet size of 2.3 m in diameter (the maximum size for immersion in a carriage), it provides a lift of up to 2 tons.

According to the manufacturer, this electromagnet has a special energy saving scheme, as well as control insurance for the lifted load using backup batteries.

The remaining electromagnets installed on powerful gantry cranes of various varieties are currently mainly manufactured in China.

Source: https://mega.windows81.ru/kak-razobrat-magnit/

How to disassemble a water meter and demagnetize it - A question of law

The constant increase in utility tariffs creates problems for the family budget of many Russians. Reasonable savings in energy consumption do not always allow for the desired reduction in payments. Recently, neodymium magnets have become widespread, used to slow down the operation of individual metering devices.

But the use of these technical means is illegal and leaves consequences that are easily identified during verification. Let's consider possible ways to demagnetize water meters after exposure to a neodymium magnet.

Using neodymium magnet

Neodymium magnets have been widely used in recent years as a means of stopping or slowing down the operation of a meter. The production of these products is established by numerous companies offering these products to clients.

The magnet is selected depending on the brand of the installed meter, but it is impossible to guarantee the effectiveness of the result, since the developers of metering devices use all kinds of methods of protection against unauthorized influence.

In most cases, the use of a neodymium magnet reduces the flow rate of the water meter by up to 70%, which provides decent savings on payments.

How to determine magnetization

The occurrence of residual magnetization is typical for corresponding materials that have been exposed to a magnetic field for a long time. The degree of magnetization is checked using a special device - a Teslameter.

Having identified traces of residual magnetization in a water meter, representatives of utility services can make claims against residents, pointing to evidence confirming falsification of the device readings through the use of a magnet.

However, although state standards regulating quality criteria regarding the degree of residual magnetization are not provided, excessive attention from utility workers to the condition of the meter is undesirable, therefore, a consumer who has turned to this not entirely legal method of saving is recommended to eliminate the remaining traces of impact on the water meter.

Methods for demagnetizing a water meter

To eliminate the magnetization of water meters, the consumer can use the following methods:

Source: https://voprospopravu.ru/kak-razobrat-vodjanoj-schetchik-i-razmagnitit.html

We take apart what is unnecessary and create what is needed: how to make a very beautiful mirror from an old chandelier

Friends, I have a very cool project that I can share with you right now. I'm still euphoric because I ended up with incredible home decor that I made with my own hands. A beautiful mirror was created from an ordinary chandelier. You will learn right now how I managed such a transformation.

List of required materials and tools

In order to make an incredibly beautiful mirror from an old chandelier with your own hands, you must first prepare the following tools and materials:

• old chandelier;
• wire cutters;
• jewelry pliers;
• wood;
• blade;
• plywood sheet;
• round mirror (its diameter should be from 15 to 20 centimeters);
• leather gloves;
• dye;
• hot glue;
• picture hanging kit;
• sandpaper;
• wood burning tool.

Precautionary measures

Before we get started, let's talk about safety. Some colored glass lampshades can be made from colored plastic. Until you know for sure, wear protective gloves while working.

You also need to take precautions when working around or with lead found in stained glass. To determine whether your lamp has a lead tip or copper tape and solder, you need to carefully pry off the outer tip and remove it from the glass. If you see copper, then you can act boldly without fear of lead.

If you don't find the copper tape, stop and don't continue. There's a good chance your stained glass lampshade was made with lead. I do not recommend working with lead if you are inexperienced in this matter.

Dismantling the chandelier

Now let's start disassembling:

1. Take your wire cutters and carefully cut them into the edge of the glass. Try working your wire cutters parallel rather than perpendicular first. This way the glass will not break.
2. Once you have a section, bend it away from the glass.
3. Avoid using glass as a lever as this may break the glass.
4. From time to time you can hear the crunching of glass. Most likely, you touched the edge of the glass with the wire cutters. Proceed carefully.

Make sure you use good leather gloves to protect yourself.

This process may take you some time, so be patient. Stained glass lamps are made to last, so disassembling them will not be easy.

Using a wood burning tool

I worked from the outside when disassembling the lampshade and this is probably the best way. Before starting with the white glass center section, I had to remove the metal ring that held the bulb and cord in place.

1. Use wire cutters and cut into the center hole.
2. Grab the cut piece with a pair of wire cutters and twist the metal piece as if you were opening a tin can.
3. Be patient and keep working on small sections.
4. To disassemble the final section, use a special wood burning tool.
5. Continue working until you have separated all the sections from each other.

Cleaning glass parts

Before you move on to the next part of the project, you'll need to sand down the edges of your pieces.

1. While wearing gloves, use a razor blade to scrape away any remaining copper tape, solder, or other sticky material from the face and edges of the parts.
2. Apply a little glass cleaner. Clean the glass. If necessary, use the blade again.
3. Finally, use sandpaper to lightly sand the edges of the glass. This will remove any remaining dirt or green patina that may be present in the copper.

Mirror decoration

Let's move on to the most interesting part, the design of the mirror.

1. Lay out some white paper. The paper should be larger than the mirror.
2. Reassemble all your pieces in the same order they were previously in.
3. Find something to use as your center circle. A yogurt jar worked for my model.
4. Align everything the way you want.
5. I made sure that the points of the white and dark blue pieces were aligned and that there was space between the white pieces.

Making a sketch

Now that the pieces are arranged in the order you would like your mirror design to appear, trace the outer edge with a pencil.

1. Transfer each piece to another piece of paper in the exact order because no two pieces of glass are the same.
2. Mark the top of your sample.
3. Trace the center circle.

For my mirror, I outlined only the dark blue glass and then arced the pieces together.

Making the mirror base

Cut out the traced design and then place the design on a sheet of plywood. Be sure to transfer the designation for the top onto the plywood. Stick to the pattern to ensure the build process is successful.

1. Cut your template onto the plywood using a jigsaw with a blade of at least 15 teeth every two and a half centimeters for a smoother finish.
2. Use a special sponge to sand the edges to avoid any rough edges.
3. Transfer this top mark to the back of the plywood.
4. Cover the board with several coats of paint.

Build process

Once the paint is dry, it's time to assemble the mirror. Find the mark you made for the top of the design and place it in the same place as the glass you transferred after tracing the outline.

1. Take the paper template and line it up on top of the plywood so that all the edges line up.
2. Make an indent below the mirror using a pen.
3. Place the yogurt jar in the center of the plywood where you made the indentations.
4. Assemble your template, now we are just doing a dry fit.
5. Finish by attaching a mirror in the center.

Hot glue takes a long time to dry - 24 hours and 72 hours to fully cure.

I placed my design in the sun so that everything would dry much faster. Once the glue has completely cured, you can attach the structure to the mirror in order to hang pictures.

And now you can find a place for your incredible decor, which you were able to make yourself. My mirror turned out even better than I expected. I am very pleased with my work.

Source: https://www.nastroy.net/post/nenuzhnoe-razbiraem-a-nuzhnoe-sozdaem-kak-sdelat-ochen-krasivoe-zerkalo-iz-staroj-lyustry

How to remove a magnet without breaking it

I'll try to remove the magnet from the speaker.
Speaker with a diameter of 350 mm, released in 1980 in Novosibirsk. The magnet must be powerful enough. I need magnets to place small tools on it. The magnet is attached to the wall and the tool will always be in sight.

I only advise you to place magnets away from vices and other places where a lot of metal dust and shavings are generated when working with an angle grinder.
Dust will be attracted to the magnets. I once heard that a magnet can be peeled off from its base—a metal plate—by heating. Heating the surface softens the glue and the magnet is released. If you try to knock out the magnet, parts of it may remain on the plate. Therefore, this method is undesirable.

Removing the magnet from the dynamic head

I unscrew the fasteners and remove the aluminum cover.

There is a copper blank at the bottom of the structure. It can be seen that they have already tried to unscrew the magnet - the edges on the bolts that hold the bottom plate are torn off.

I turn the speaker over and start using a torch to heat the surface of the top metal plate.

Important!
When heated, the magnet may lose its properties, so the temperature must be adjusted. Using circular movements of the burner, I heat the surface of the plate. I periodically touch it with my hand to check the temperature. After heating, I begin to beat off the metal plate with a chisel and hammer.

You must work carefully because the surface is hot. After several blows, the plate begins to come off, and there is a smell of glue in the room.

The edges of the copper ingot are in the way. You have to hit it several times with a hammer. After which the magnet with the top plate leaves the installation site. The plate comes off easily and I have almost a whole magnet left in my hands.

The method turned out to work quite well. The metal must be heated to 70 degrees for it to start burning your hand. The glue becomes soft and the metal plate can be separated. After this, warm it up a little more and you can start working with a chisel.

There is no other way to remove the magnet without damaging it.
The magnet will either crack or partially remain on the flange-shaped metal plate. From the plate I will make a faceplate for the lathe. To do this, the plate must be sharpened. The part is mounted to the faceplate and clamped with a bolt, and the faceplate is inserted into the lathe chuck.

Previously, I had already obtained magnets with a diameter of 120 mm from car speakers.
The diameter of this magnet is 135 mm. It is strong enough to attach a variety of tools to it, including a metal hammer. The item in the workshop is very useful. Tip: it is better to secure the magnet on the wall so that it does not fall from the weight of the tools.

How to disassemble an iron magnet 2400w

Despite the apparent simplicity of the iron, not all owners are able to disassemble it.
It's all about the numerous fasteners hidden under the decorative trim. In order not to break anything when disassembling the iron, you need to be calm and resourceful. By completely disassembling the iron, it becomes possible to eliminate many simple problems. Let's look at the sequence of disassembling a modern iron using the VES 1616 model as an example. The iron should be cold and without water.

There is a “tricky” screw at the end of the iron, to unscrew it you will need a flat-head screwdriver with a slot in the middle. Such a slot can be made in a regular screwdriver using a file or grinder.

The following screws are hidden under the water supply buttons. The buttons can be easily removed by pressing on them at the front. The back of the button lifts up so you can remove it from the iron body.

Now you need to unscrew the top two screws and remove the top element.

Next, unscrew 3 more screws and remove the lever that regulates the water supply.

Now we remove the back cover, where the “tricky” screw has already been removed, and unscrew the 2 screws at the top of the iron.

Using a screwdriver, pry up the upper part of the handle and halve it.

Next, we pry up the heating regulator and remove the regulator and the lower part of the handle.

Now you can see 3 screws that secure the “aqua housing” to the platform. We unscrew them, disconnect the tube through which water is supplied to the “sole” and remove the housing for containing the water.

It remains to unscrew 3 more screws and perform the final dismantling of the element.

Now, using a vacuum cleaner with a narrow nozzle, we clean everything from accumulated dust.

After this, some problems with the iron are eliminated.
And then, armed with a tester, you can “ring” the heating element, wiring, conduct a visual inspection, etc. It is convenient to put all fasteners and small parts of the iron in a box.

Assembling the iron is done slowly in the reverse order.

Although the iron is not the most expensive household appliance, if it breaks, you don’t have to immediately run for a new one. First, let's try to repair it ourselves. Do-it-yourself iron repair - this is where you can start your career as a home electrician. A simple scheme, a minimum of elements.

Types of irons and their design

If we talk about electric irons, there are three types:

Normal, no steaming. Lately they have been unpopular, but they are the most inexpensive and compact and can be purchased as a “hiking” option. For trips, business trips, etc.

Iron without steam and with steam

Steam station or iron with steam generator

The most common are irons with steamers; it is its repair that we will consider further. First, you should familiarize yourself with its device. This will make repairing the iron yourself easier. Knowing the composition of the device and the purpose of its parts, we can name possible causes of problems.

In general terms, each iron consists of a body, a handle, a thermostat and a soleplate with holes through which steam is supplied to the ironing area. To maintain the steaming mode, a water container is built into the iron body, and there are also intensity regulators for the steaming mode.

General structure of an iron with a steamer

Steaming system design

Modern electric irons of this type have several steaming modes. To understand how everything works, you need to consider how it all works. After all, repairing an iron with your own hands is often necessary not because the iron does not heat up, but because there is no steam. And here it is important to understand what exactly is the matter.

Modern models have three steaming modes, which have individual buttons. Each button activates its own pump, which, depending on the settings, supplies the required amount of water. There are such modes and pumps:

• Soft (normal) steaming with steam intensity regulator. You set the regulator to the desired position (usually 4-5 modes) and steam is supplied continuously (until the water runs out) at certain intervals.
• Steam boost. A sharp one-time release of steam that occurs when you press the corresponding button.
• Drip irrigation. From a small nozzle located at the front of the handle, pressing a button sprays a small amount of water.

Source: https://MyTooling.ru/instrumenty/kak-razobrat-utjug-magnit-2400w

The intercom key has become demagnetized and does not work: what should I do?

An intercom system is one of the modern security support systems for various types of facilities where there is a need to restrict access. Due to their simplicity and efficiency, such devices have found wide practical application in apartment buildings. They are installed on entrance doors in order to restrict entry into the building only to those people who have the appropriate intercom key or know the code that is entered through the dialer.

The door is opened by a special lock, which is controlled by an electromechanical system that is activated if the correct code is entered or the appropriate identifier is used. Quite often it happens that the intercom reader does not recognize the key, as a result of which the door does not open. What to do in such situations will be described below.

The principle of operation of the intercom key

The intercom key is a special device, the basis of which is an independent memory in which an identifier key is registered, which is read by the corresponding call block module. An identifier is a unique code that is a sequence of zeros and ones.

When you apply the key to the contact pad of the intercom, the process of reading the identifier and comparing it with those identifiers that are registered in the electronic memory of the device occurs. If the key used is registered to one of the apartments or is a universal master key, then the electromechanical lock is activated and the doors open.

If the key to the intercom does not work, then the lock will not open and it will be impossible to get into the house.

Today there are several types of intercom keys. The most common include Touchmemory - these are contact devices, the job of which is to transfer data about the recorded identifier to the identifier reading module at the moment of contact.

Touchmemory intercom key (contact)

Another type is based on the use of the Proximity contactless system, with which you can remotely open the intercom lock. The key of this system is made in the form of a card or a special key fob. These types of devices are less common, but have the highest level of security.

Contactless intercom key

Based on the principle of operation, keys are divided into the following devices:

1. Resistive. These devices are built around a resistor of a certain value. The disadvantage of such systems is that the keys of all residents of the house have the same resistor value. As a result, such devices can be easily duplicated and the intercom lock can be opened.
2. Reed keys. This device operates on the principle of a reed switch pair.

   Inside the intercom reading unit there is a bulb with a contact mechanism that turns on if it is acted upon by the magnetic key used to open the door.

3. Optical. Such devices operate on the principle of an LED-photodiode pair.

   To open the door, the key must be brought to special holes through which it is read to open the door.

The main reasons for broken keys

If the key to the intercom does not open, and the reader system does not react to it in any way, then most likely it is out of order. Let's look at the probable causes of the breakdown and find out whether it can be repaired at home with your own hands.

The simplest case when the key does not work may be due to the fact that the company that services the access systems in your area changed the codes, but did not have time to warn all residents. Since many identifiers from different apartments are registered in the intercom, when some codes are changed, some of the keys stop working.

Another reason for damage is associated with the use of Proxy keys, which contain a special chip with an antenna. There are cases when the chip and antenna break off, then it will not be possible to open the door. It is impossible to restore the device at home yourself.

The next reason is also related to Proxy keys. The fact is that some of the models use a temporary filter that tracks duplicate keys and writes invalid codes into them. In this case, after a certain time, such a duplicate may stop working.

Touchmemory keys can be damaged due to mechanical factors or static voltage, which can cause the device's memory to work incorrectly or not work at all.

What to do if the key is demagnetized or simply does not work?

If a resistive switch does not work due to a resistor failure, then it is not possible to repair it at home. You should order new ones that will work with the intercom reading module.

In the case when the intercom key stopped working due to the fact that it was blocked by a filter or mechanically damaged, it is impossible to repair it yourself. In this case, the problem can only be solved by making a new copy from a working intercom key.

If Touchmemory is broken, it can be restored by rewriting the identifier. This can only be implemented if the key template is rewritable. If a non-rewritable device fails, only new keys need to be made.

"Note!

When the key to an intercom with a reed switch mechanism has become demagnetized, it should also be replaced with a new one. It is impossible to eliminate demagnetization on your own.”

If we summarize the information presented above, we can conclude that it is impossible to repair the intercom key with your own hands. To do this, you should contact specialized companies to make a copy or rewrite the identifier, if possible.

If the key to the intercom does not open, but you need to get into the house, then in addition to making a new key, there are three more ways to open the door.

1. Use the code that is entered from the dialer and ensures that the intercom lock is activated.
2. If the code is forgotten, you can open the door with the intercom using special master codes. Each of the intercoms supports special codes, the sequential introduction of which will open the lock. The list of these master codes is individual for each specific intercom model.
3. Reprogram the intercom. This procedure can only be used if you know the administrator or intercom installer password. Using these codes will allow you to enter the setup and configuration mode of the electronic unit, as a result of which the device can be reprogrammed for other entry codes and open the door.
4. Use a universal key. The easiest way to open the door when the intercom does not respond is to use special universal keys. All intercoms are equipped with such master keys. They are also available in those organizations that service these types of systems and installers who specialize in installing intercoms.

How to disassemble the door trim on a Ford Focus 2 yourself

19.01.2020

Ford introduced the compact small midsize Focus model in 1998. The first generation of front-wheel drive budget city cars entered the market in three body styles: sedan, station wagon, and hatchback.

Over twenty years of production, the Focus line has undergone seven updates, but the second generation pre-styling is most popular among CIS drivers. Most often, owners are interested in how to remove the door trim of a Ford Focus 2 in order to carry out tuning and update the interior.

Let's look at this issue in more detail for all generations of cars.

Why remove the trim from the doors of a Ford Focus

In addition to the tuning option, you will need to remove the driver's or passenger door trim in the following cases:

1. Repair, reinstallation of central locking elements.
2. Damage to the window lowering mechanism, window lifter, opening handle, lock cylinder.
3. The interior is equipped with speakers, acoustic columns, and control gadgets that fit into the door panel.
4. Work related to sound insulation of the interior, laying vibration insulation, checking the internal pockets of the part for corrosion, anti-corrosion treatment.

A plastic door card is installed as standard on the first and second generation Focus. The material becomes brittle when exposed to low temperatures, so careless dismantling can break the panel.

It is recommended to carry out all work on reinstalling the cladding at an air temperature of at least plus 15 degrees.

Tools and Supplies

Complete dismantling of the door card takes up to 20 minutes. Disassembling the casing does not require special tools; a standard motorist kit is sufficient. For work you will need:

• Torx key 20-25;
• screwdrivers: with narrow and wide flat blades;
• head at 8;
• wooden wedge or plastic ruler.

Before any work related to reinstalling the casing, it is necessary to remove the negative terminal from the battery.

The trim is installed on plastic pistons; during the work, some clips will be broken, so it is recommended to purchase sets of fasteners for Ford in advance. The cost of an original set of 25 pistons is about 150 rubles.

About the differences in the process of removing the trim from Ford Focus 1, 2 and 3

Regardless of the year of manufacture, the dismantling algorithm does not change. Each generation of Focus has received an updated body. Depending on this, door cards have original shapes and are made of different materials. The cladding in the pre-restyling and restyling versions has different places for installing pistons and screws; there are differences in the shape of protective linings and plugs.

For all models, the shape of the clips and the material used to make them remain the same. The standard retainer has the shape of a double-sided pressure piston with a double skirt. The base of the clip is installed in the trim, and fixation cells are located on the door.

Step-by-step instructions for FordFocus 1

The first generation of Focus hatchbacks, sedans and station wagons was produced from 1998 to 2005. In 2001, a planned restyling took place. The update did not affect the shape of the casing and the mounting locations of the pistons. The cladding has been modified since the first generation and installed on the restyled version in the standard places for screws and pistons. Disassembling the front door of Ford Focus 1 step by step:

1. Use a thin screwdriver to pry the plate off the handle.
2. Unscrew the two screws and remove the handle.
3. Remove the cover near the locking lever socket, unscrew the screw, and remove the locking handle socket.
4. Disconnect the locking plug and pull out the latch locking socket.
5. Loosen the clamps, pull out the glass fastening channel, and pull out the glass.
6. Unfasten 7 clips around the perimeter of the cladding: three on the outside of the panel, two on the inside, two at the bottom of the panel.
7. Gently pull the casing towards you and up, gradually unfastening the pistons.

Source: https://infokuzov.ru/remont/snyat-obshivku-ff-2

Disassembling the iron

Let's start, probably, with the promised Soviet iron. Let’s say right away that they have little in common with steam engines. Let's list the parts that make up the iron with the quality mark in the form of a star inscribed in the pentagon:

1. Back cover.
2. Temperature regulator.
3. Power cable.
4. Sole.
5. The handle is often integral with the body.

Inside is a power supply block, a heating element for the soles, a thermostat and a thermal fuse. In the UL-84 model, which we see in the photo, in the back of the sole there is a quick access cover to the heating element. You see the lid with the iron upside down. Admire the power contacts of the heating element.

In the background you can see a gentleman's kit for opening household appliances. Let me explain. In the green case there are many tips along with the typical TORX, you can notice the incredible shape of the head. The set was purchased in Moscow at a cost of about 800 - 1000 rubles. Adapter included.

Today bits are much cheaper due to dealer competition.

The heads do not fit the reversible screwdriver, which we will see here. Through the adapter, the cap fits into the cap onto the internal magnet. In the gray case you can see 6 sockets for standard screwdriver heads. The cost of pleasure with a pen is hundreds of rubles, no more than 400.

Why do we spend so much time mulling over the instrument? Every iron disassembly video begins with complaints about non-standard screw heads. Meanwhile, every man just needs to get a gentleman’s kit that allows him to spin up a spaceship. Moreover, readers probably purchased a drive with replaceable heads.

Buy a set of custom attachments!

Pressure bar and contacts

Having removed the back cover (photo number 2), we see: there are clearly no power bolts. It is seen:

• clamping plate with two screws;
• contacts going to the relay, one turn is broken by a bimetallic plate, adjustable with a mode knob.

It is clear that the input must be sought from the temperature regulator. Carefully pry the handle from the sides with two screwdrivers, it will fly out with a terrible crack. The regulator was held in place by two steel spring clips that clung to a groove. Nothing criminal. Look at the photo, it looks scary, it has been working for almost half a century. Will Philips, Vitek, Tefal, Braun, Bosch give such a guarantee? Draw your own conclusions. You see two power bolts, let’s unscrew them immediately!

Opening the cover of the temperature regulator

To remove the sole, we will disassemble the contact block shown in the second photo. In the last image we see an adjustable bimetallic plate. To protect against incorrect fitting of the regulator during assembly, the asymmetry of the hole shape is noted. Disassembly is complete. The power of the device is 1 kW, the winding resistance should be 50 Ohms. Will be performed at any position of the thermostat as long as the contacts are closed.

Of course, if necessary, we will adjust the bimetallic plate. Pliers plus skilled hands are used. By bending the metal, we change the temperature at which the relay operates. Disconnect the heating element by disassembling the contacts in photo number 2. Check the short circuit resistance of the relay. Great - clean the contacts, sand them.

Disassemble imported steam iron

We avoid saying that disassembling a Tefal iron is easy; here are typical techniques.

1. The first screw was chosen by the nose, the second - in the area of ​​the steam boost buttons, the sprinkler (sometimes under the steam control knob). The screws are placed on the back. Sometimes you can find it under the back cover.
2. The nose screw is sometimes replaced by teeth. In the area of ​​the steam boost and sprinkler buttons, you need to find and unscrew the bolt. The rear screw is often visible to the naked eye, shown in the fifth photo.

The screw needs to be unscrewed

The device of a modern iron

Modern irons are three-tiered, typical composition:

1. The handle is integral with the tank.
2. A housing that protects the tank from a hot base.
3. The sole has a boiler and holes that release steam.

The assemblies are structurally unified. It is often not possible to disassemble in parts without breaking. The handle is glued to the tank, the body is a single piece made of plastic, the method of welding the boiler and the sole is generally difficult to identify.

Under the body there is a compartment for electronic components. Thermostat, represented by a bimetallic plate. A thermal fuse is visible nearby; it is usually molded through heat-resistant fabric onto the wall of the tank, or close to the heating element.

Accordingly, the element setting can be, for example, 140 degrees or higher. Determined by the implementation circuit for overheating protection and the model of the iron.

You can recognize a thermal fuse by its mounting bracket and by the eloquent inscriptions on the body indicating the permissible current (optional) and response temperature.

Replace the thermal fuse with the same one. To disassemble the Braun Freestyle corded iron, you will need to push the cord with electronic filling back. According to the tips given above, first remove the rear screws, then the bow.

Finally, remove the sprayer located in the area of ​​the steam boost buttons. The cord and the electronic part are held in place by plastic teeth. The handle, tank, sole are practically one whole. However, in the bow we will notice a couple of power screws.

Act according to the circumstances.

The design, we believe, has become the basis of cordless irons. Power contacts are made detachable. You can remove and put the sole with the tank and the handle in place whenever you want. No disassembly.

Although any wireless irons operate in cycles: n seconds tyrannize the stand, m seconds iron the clothes, there are no timers inside (signal LEDs are on). Operates controlled by a bimetallic plate.

A green light bulb is included in the sole circuit, and a second upper position contact for the red one is created. Follow the traffic lights. Green means it’s possible. Red? It's time to put the iron on and get some strength.

Models have been created with a built-in battery, of course, they weigh more. Not everyone can call quality a virtue. But battery life lasts longer. As for regular expensive cordless irons, the cycle is something like 24 – 5. The ironing time is five times longer than the resting time. Disassembling a cordless iron is no more difficult than a wired one.

Source: https://moy-instrument.ru/masteru/kak-razobrat-utyug-magnit-2400w.html