How to determine whether a coin is silver or not

Counterfeits of royal silver coins

Fake royal silver coin

The pursuit of easy profit has always forced people to commit fraud, despite the threat of criminal punishment.

One of the ways to make such money is to counterfeit coins, in particular silver coins from the tsarist period in Russian history.

Fake silver coins or how counterfeiters of imperial times worked

Fake silver coins from Tsarist times

The production of counterfeit money reaches its apogee at turning points for the country. For example, at the end of the 19th – beginning of the 20th centuries. In Russia, the scale of production of counterfeit coins reached such a level and wide distribution that even experts were forced to admit the professionalism of counterfeiters.

In those days, the population used fakes and did not even suspect anything.

In those same years, swindlers became famous for a more filigree method of their criminal craft: they knocked the silver out of coins and left it full of holes.

The law in Russia then allowed the use of silver coins with minor damage.

As a result, the widespread spread of holey money forced the government to remove such copies from circulation.

However, the counterfeiters were not at a loss and began to fill the voids in the coins with tin or lead. It turned out to be almost impossible to immediately distinguish such counterfeits, so holey silver coins returned to circulation.

The counterfeit coins that were produced in Russia at the beginning of the 20th century are, for the most part, primitive fakes. They were produced using cheap equipment, and the scammers did not have professional carving skills. Coins were either cast or minted.

Modern methods of counterfeiting silver coins of Tsarist Russia

Since the mid-20th century in Russia, the production of ancient counterfeit coins began to be carried out using industrial equipment, which allows the production of counterfeit copies in huge quantities, not to mention its sharply increased quality.

Single craftsmen were replaced by skilled workers of large enterprises, who began to use complex innovative technical equipment to produce counterfeits.

Modern counterfeits, for obvious reasons, cannot act as a means of payment. Silver coins in Russia, as well as throughout the world, were replaced by paper bills. Today they are made to profit from gullible or uninformed collectors. The level of production of fakes in Russia has reached the highest level, fraudsters have studied all the technical details, so it can be very difficult to distinguish fakes from originals.

 How to distinguish genuine silver coins from fakes?

If you become the owner of antique silver coins and want to find out whether they are original, be guided by the following signs:

• condition of the collar;
• weight - fakes always weigh less;
• how well the edge is made - poor condition indicates a fake;
• ringing when hitting a hard surface - fakes can be distinguished by their dull sound.

There are other methods that specialists use. For example, they evaluate the clarity of the applied design or conduct spectral analysis, which is recognized as the most reliable method of identifying fakes.

The silver money of Tsarist Russia has a characteristic patina, which gives it a unique charm. This oxidation indicates that this is a genuine specimen.

It is formed only from proper storage of the coin in good conditions. In addition to its decorative function, such a film acts as a protection for the surface, preventing it from further oxidizing.

Fraudsters are well aware of the presence of patina on royal silver coins, so they use special methods to artificially apply a patina. This process is called patination, where the surface is painted to give it a dated appearance.

There is no single patination method, and criminals use different methods.

Some bake a coin in the oven, others burn it with a soldering iron, and still others apply acid or other chemicals to the surface.

Some scammers approach the matter more thoroughly and use time-consuming patination methods. For example, exposing silver coins to sunlight or placing the coin in heated distilled water. All sorts of tricks, of course, will add shine to the specimens, but will not affect the real value in any way.

Methods for determining the authenticity of a silver coin

How to identify fake silver coins by alloy?

Any numismatist who intends to seriously collect silver coins of Russia from the Tsarist period needs to be able to distinguish the authenticity of silver.

The simplest thing you can do is to hold a magnet to the coin. A genuine copy will not be attracted. This method does not provide a complete guarantee, but it will help to distinguish the most primitive fakes.

Silver has excellent thermal conductivity, so hold it in your hand and test the degree of heat. The script will immediately take on the temperature of your hand.

You can also test a silver coin in hot water.

You can lubricate the specimen with sulfur ointment from a pharmacy and leave it for two hours, then wipe off the ointment with a napkin. On the original coin, the application area should turn black. If the surface shade has become reddish or has not changed color at all, this is a fake. The same reaction will occur after rubbing with chalk: if the coin turns black, you have a genuine copy.

There is also a more risky method, when the coin is rubbed with an iodine solution.

The authenticity of the silver will, of course, be determined, but the surface itself will then be extremely difficult to wash. The area of ​​application should take on a black tint, and the higher quality the silver, the blacker the stain that appears.

You can turn the silver coin in your hands and look at it in your palms. Hands should remain clean from the original, and if some traces are observed, the silver contains zinc impurities. Such an alloy is characterized not only by contamination, but also by fragility. In addition, high-quality but darkened silver can be restored to its former shine with the help of special creams, which cannot be done with fake pieces.

Source: http://de.numizmat-online.com/poddelki-carskix-serebryanyx-monet/

Distinctive features of the coin's authenticity

A coin is not only a form of money or a piece of metal, but also a historically valuable object. For rare original specimens, numismatists are willing to pay colossal sums of money, reaching several million dollars.

Collectors who do not have such amounts of money also strive to replenish their collection with unique coins. This is what scammers who have learned to professionally counterfeit metal money take advantage of.

For this reason, all numismatists are wondering how to determine the authenticity of a coin.

Making counterfeits

Before you begin to consider methods for making fake coins, you should know the difference between counterfeit copies and counterfeits. Counterfeit coins are made for further use in monetary circulation.

Counterfeits are created with the aim of defrauding coin collectors of money. Often, scammers offer fakes as remakes, but in reality there is nothing in common between them. For reference: a remake is a coin minted based on the prototype of the original coin for collecting.

In most cases, remakes are minted with original dies.

Sestroretsk ruble - original

In Russia, high-quality production of counterfeit coins began in the seventeenth century. But today, counterfeit production methods have improved significantly, making counterfeit coins very difficult to distinguish from originals. The most common methods of making counterfeits include:

1. Casting: According to this method, the alloy for casting coins is poured into special molds that accurately imitate the obverse and reverse of the original coin. The use of electrolysis copying technology makes it possible to produce high-quality counterfeits.
2. Using a new stamp: for minting counterfeit coins, a new stamp is made that copies the design of the obverse and reverse of the original specimen.
3. Production of a galvanoplastic copy: first, copies of the reverse and obverse of the original are made from plastic or plaster. After this, a conductive layer was applied to the finished plates, and copper was deposited on it using the electrolysis method. The plates imitating the obverse and reverse were adjusted to each other and soldered so that the thickness of the counterfeit coin completely coincided with the thickness of the original coin.
4. Refinement: According to this method, an ordinary genuine coin is taken and, with the help of special technologies, the necessary adjustments are made regarding the date, name of the mint, etc. There is also the practice of restoring images and dates.
5. Copy Coining: In this method, the alloy is cast into a die created by laser cutting tools.

Despite the prevalence of cases of counterfeit coins being sold as originals, copies are also in demand among numismatists.

For example, coins of Tsarist Russia made of silver, gold or base metal are very popular among collectors. The most sought-after royal coins are associated with the period from the eighteenth century to 1916.

For a silver copy of the coin you will have to pay up to three thousand rubles, but a copy made of plain metal will cost a numismatist about 400 rubles.

Remake

How to distinguish a fake from the original?

Distinguishing an original coin from a fake is not as easy as it might seem, but all because copies can be of such high quality that even an expert will not be able to immediately determine the authenticity.

Among numismatists, there are ways to independently identify a counterfeit coin. How to check a coin for authenticity without being a professional:

1. If possible, you should take the coin and evaluate the color of its metal and patina (the layer that forms on the surface of the coin over time as a result of oxidation of the metal). It is worth noting that to give coins the effect of antiquity, craftsmen skillfully fake the patina using methods such as baking, painting, smoking with tobacco smoke, etc. It is not difficult to identify a fake patina. Firstly, it will spread across the metal in the form of round spots. Secondly, the patina will be located only on the surface of the coins, while there will be no patina on scratches and abrasions. Bright spots of patina on silver are also a sign of a fake.
2. In good daylight, the entire surface of the coin should be examined. If you can see other metal showing through the abrasions, then most likely the coin is a low-quality Chinese counterfeit.
3. The shine of the metal also requires special attention. If the coin is excessively shiny, this indicates that it was recently made. The dullness of the coin should also alert the numismatist, since it is typical for counterfeit gold coins that do not contain gold, and the dull coating is created by gilding. A greasy sheen indicates that a coin purporting to be made from a precious metal contains a large amount of zinc.
4. It is recommended to examine the coin with a magnifying glass. A non-uniform metal surface will indicate that the specimen is a fake.
5. When evaluating cast coins, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the cast coin circle. Ideally, it should have clear outlines, but the presence of a blunt edge, residual bubbles and foreign particles on the surface of the metal indicates that the coin is made of a low-quality alloy.
6. The parameters (diameter and thickness) of the purchased copy should be compared with the parameters of the original coin, if one is available. It is also important to compare the mass of the two coins.
7. You should also evaluate the quality of the small images minted on the coin and compare them with those depicted on the standard.
8. If the authenticity of coins made of silver or gold is being assessed, then you should take one copy and throw it on a hard horizontal surface, for example, a table. When it hits the surface, the precious metal will produce a clear, ringing sound.
9. If a coin consists of a certain two-component alloy, then its authenticity can be assessed using the hydrostatic weighing technique. Its essence is to determine the mass of a coin in air and water. The difference in mass in grams, if 2 originals are compared, will be equal to the volume of the coin being valued. However, if there is a third component in the alloy, then this method is not suitable for determining the authenticity of a coin consisting of a three-component metal alloy.

Every numismatist should also know which coins are most often counterfeited:

• hryvnia 1705;
• 1 ruble 1707;
• 1 ruble 1721;
• 1 ruble 1725;
• 20 kopecks 1764;
• 1 ruble 1834;
• coins of the Soviet period and others.

In order not to fall for a scammer, a numismatist should know how many originals and remakes of a particular coin exist in the world. You should also avoid buying collectibles from random people. It is recommended to purchase coins from an experienced numismatist, because only in this case can you protect yourself from buying a fake.

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Source: https://DedPodaril.com/numizmatika/kak-opredelit-podlinnost-monety.html

Brief information about proof coins from different times

Hello, dear readers! In this article we will talk about what a hallmark coin is. Since the time coins have existed, they have had their own chronology and test samples. Ancient minters used one or another alloy on proof coins to achieve the optimal result for mass minting. The test coin was carried to the ruler, whose face was on the obverse.

And woe to the carver if the bishop did not like the portrait. During the period of industrialization, industrial empires, one after another, refused to convert precious gold and silver into banknotes. Consequently, experiments began on how a certain metal or alloy behaves in aggressive environments, and how great its wear resistance is. New technologies are tested on proof coins.

Below is an interesting German 10 euro cent issued in bimetallic form.

Bimetallic 10 euro cents Germany

Features of Proof Coins

What does a "proof coin" mean to a collector? This is a version of a payment mark issued at the mint to approve the design of the obverse and reverse or for experiments in various areas of application of future payment marks.

There are stories of how domestic research institutes in the late fifties received sets of newly minted coins from 1958 to test their performance in vending machines that were preparing for mass production.

But a “test coin” in no way refers to the coin-shaped souvenirs that fill the windows of all kinds of kiosks.

How can you determine whether a proof coin is true or not if you have in your hands something that differs from the standard of that era, the year of which is stamped on an unknown product? Browse through the catalogs of proof coins , of which there are enough issued. They must contain a variant of the calculation symbol being studied. That is, the design of the obverse and reverse (and don’t forget about the edge!) fully corresponds to the catalog description.

USSR coins 20 kopecks 1952 (trial and circulation)

How to distinguish a proof coin from a regular one if it was minted with a stamp pair for mass circulation? Compare the weight with a regular coin. The discrepancy must be outside the permissible deviations. If for the sample we used metal intended for ordinary minting, we carefully study the differences described in the catalog. Thus, test coins from 1958 (for example, 15 kopecks) are characterized by a flat star in the coat of arms, while an ordinary (albeit quite rare) coin has a faceted star.

Proof coins of Tsarist Russia

Two rubles of Peter the Great in silver

Samplers from the era of Peter the Great are known for various denominations from half rubles and kopecks to new-made two-ruble notes. The latter was originally minted from gold, while silver was used for the trial ones. Test two rubles in good preservation go for over two million rubles at auctions. But among Peter’s samples, the record is broken by a nickel of an unapproved sample, dated 1723, which gained almost six and a half million at auction.

Test ruble of Alexander I (version “In military uniform”)

For portrait medal art, the preservation of the test rubles of Alexander the Great was a great success. The circulation samples did not have a portrait of the sovereign, but artists did not stop trying to transfer the emperor’s profile onto coins. A selection of samples will present us with a variant with a long neck, a portrait in a military uniform and a bas-relief in the Roman style. Few original coins survived, so after some time, collectors in power ordered new coinage.

Test ruble with a portrait of Paul the Great

Which of the test coins of Imperial Russia is considered the most expensive ? Auctions often change the coins on the podium. But let’s note the record holder - the test ruble of 1796 SPB-CLF, which is the only original coin with a portrait of Paul the First. It was sold in 2007 for 212 and a half million.

USSR proof coins

When introducing new banknotes, the young Soviet state also minted test coins. Although the technical characteristics of coins from the Tsarist era were taken as samples of circulation copies, experiments with metals and sizes immediately began.

The result was a transformation of the group of junior denominations. Bulky and heavy copper kopecks and nickels became lighter, lighter and smaller when they began to be minted from aluminum bronze in 1926.

Samplers covered in legends were single copies of a 1925 chervonets and a 1927 fifty-kopeck piece, embodied in copper.

Trial 3 kopecks of 1924 and half kopecks of 1925

The thirties do not have a noticeable surge in samplers. Only the Vigilevsky kryvennik (10 kopecks from 1933 with a reverse of future years) and experimental coins made of various metals (mostly two-kopeck coins, dated 1936 and 1937) are heard.

In the second half of the forties, demonstration samples of 1947 gained fame. The stamps of the circulation coins differed from the trial ones in detail, but the only three-kopeck coin has survived.

1947 is an exception, when demonstration copies are known than everyday ones.

Trial 3 kopecks 1953

An amazing collection of proof coins from the fifties. Samples that are quite familiar to the eye, but made of atypical metals, are side by side with coins, the design of which is strikingly different from mass circulation. Coins from 1953 of various designs surprise with their reverse. None of them made it into serial production. But two versions of the obverse served as a model for the 1961-1991 coin series of ruble and penny denominations.

Experimental 15 kopecks USSR

In the late eighties, they became concerned about reducing the cost of issuing everyday coins. Experiments begin with steel blanks clad with more expensive metals. Collectors fervently look for pennies that have clear metal on the edge, free of plating. Of course, these specimens are magnetic, unlike regular coins. A number of innovations appeared in the GKChP coin series; other developments were used in the minting of coins of the Russian Federation.

Chervonets 1925 (copper version)

The most expensive proof coin of the USSR is the 1925 chervonets, made in copper, for which five million mints have been recorded. The copper version of the 1927 fifty-kopeck piece reached two million.

Trial fifty-kopeck coins from 1924 with the letters “QR” (where Q is, of course, “fita”) also sell for over a million at auction. Some denominations from 1947 and coins from an unapproved version of the “50 Years of Soviet Power” set are traded within the same limit.

To these we can safely add a trial ruble in honor of the centenary of Lenin’s birth and a unique trial fifty-kopeck piece from 1929.

Trial fifty dollars 1929

Modern proof coins

The first examples of test coins in modern Russia appeared even before the collapse of the Union. MMD and LMD developed a similar series of coins, starting with one penny. Their design fully corresponds to the ruble and five of 1992. But if on the Leningrad samples the USSR was still listed as the issuer, then MMD products have the familiar eagle on the obverse. Coins carefully avoid public trading, so talking about the specific cost of these samples is extremely imprudent.

1995 Proof Coins

1995 proof coins from 100 to 1000 non-denominated rubles was put on public display The photographs caused great controversy. Many considered them coin-like souvenirs. The status of the samples was confirmed by an official exhibition, where, along with a copy from this line, samples of rubles and kopecks, planned for introduction after the denomination, were exhibited. The dates "1995" and "1998" appear in this series.

The coins look unusual, even the floral ornament is unlike the everyday coins that have filled the cash registers and wallets of citizens since January 1, 1998. Interesting test coins based on bimetallic tens were included in the exposition of another exhibition. Their appearance is reminiscent of a series of collectible coins from Austria and Luxembourg, the central insert of which is niobium, painted in various colors.

However, these beauties have not yet reached mass production.

If we were to collect all the known hallmark coins of the world in one cabinet, we would need a spacious palace. Some of them exist in a single version. You can't get them for a collection.

Others appear with enviable regularity on the numismatic market and are available to collectors with the means. Order a proof coin from our store.

A test coin among the circulation copies looks like the pearl of the collection , so why not get an object for your exhibition that will give it a unique charm.

Source: https://www.Monetnik.ru/obuchenie/numizmatika/probnye-monety/

How to determine the authenticity of a coin?

It is important to remember that to determine the authenticity of coins made of regularly minted precious metals, as well as to identify counterfeits among them, it is enough to know the basic properties of precious metals, technical parameters and design features of genuine coins (specification for the coin or “legend”), as well as to be able to use simple tools: scales, calipers and magnifying glass. You must be aware that a modern coin made of precious metal is a product of rather high complexity.

Firstly, it is a work of art, a small sculpture; it often depicts portraits, figures of people, animals, and various objects with a high degree of similarity to the originals.

Secondly, highly specialized, strictly standardized minting production ensures high-quality design of coin surfaces in compliance with strictly specified technical and geometric parameters, their uniformity for the entire circulation.

The combination of these features creates significant difficulties for counterfeiters, since accurately reproducing the complex relief designs of a genuine coin and ensuring an acceptable level of quality in the technical processing of counterfeits, even using factory equipment, not to mention artisanal conditions, is fraught with great problems. For example, no counterfeits of “proof” quality coins even remotely resembling the original have been recorded in the world. Coins with a complex minting structure make it easier to determine their authenticity.  

Minor bevels of the sharp edges of the edge, small burrs on it and light short scratches on the margins of the obverse and reverse are allowed on coins of ordinary quality of minting (“uncirculated”).

Small burrs are also allowed on the outer edge of the edge of coins made as “proof”. Therefore, by measuring the thickness of a coin with a caliper, you can obtain a value that exceeds the maximum permissible according to technical conditions.

To avoid such distortions, the thickness of the coin should be measured with a micrometer in the area of ​​the inner edge of the edge.

Minting coin production is the “cutting out” of a coin blank from a single sheet of metal with one movement of a special press, and then the embodiment of the intended shapes in this blank using special mechanisms. None of the methods of counterfeiting coins, such as casting, extrusion, etc. does not have even a tenth of the capabilities of modern minted production.

Any deviations from the requirements of the standards, changes in the design details of coins, traces of mechanical impact on them, signs of falsification are easily detected by carefully examining the surfaces of the coin being examined through a magnifying glass with two to four times magnification, measuring its diameter and thickness with a caliper, micrometer and weighing it on a scale. To make this work easier, it is recommended to inspect the suspect coin by comparing it with a reference sample of the genuine coin.

Thus, if the technical parameters of the coin being studied from a precious metal (weight, diameter, thickness) are within the values ​​​​permissible by standards (coincide with the official specification of the coin, publicly announced and usually posted in specialized literature, and now on the Internet), on it there are no traces of mechanical influences on the surface, and in the details of its design there are no deviations from the reference sample, there is no reason to doubt its authenticity.

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Source: https://gold.ru/news/kak-opredelit-podlinnost-monet-iz-dragmetallov.html

How to distinguish silver coins from fakes

articles:

• 1 The difference between original coins and fakes
• 2 How to distinguish a silver coin from a fake?
• 3 How not to buy a copy. Mini-guide for the beginning collector
• 4 Numismatics News The goal of our news section is to increase the interest of numismatists, antiquity collectors, and history buffs in Russian coins from 1700 to the present day in 2018, as a tool for profitable investment in coins made of precious metals platinum, gold, silver, and collecting antiquities
  • 4.1 How to recognize counterfeit coins yourself?
• 5 Copies of coins. How to distinguish a fake?
• 6 Counterfeit coins of Tsarist Russia
• 7 How to determine the authenticity of coins. Simple methods for beginners
• 8 Ways to counterfeit coins
• 9 How to distinguish silver coins
• 10 Ruble 1723 is a fake and how to distinguish a fake from the original - Numismatics. Coins of Russia, USSR and England. Coin prices
• 11 Counterfeit coins, how to distinguish?
• 12 Counterfeit coins, how to determine the authenticity of a coin
• 13 Historical and numismatic value of coins of Tsarist Russia
• 14 How to distinguish a silver coin from a fake, how to cash in small change
• 15 How to determine the authenticity of a coin
• 16 Beware, fake! How to distinguish a fake silver coin from a genuine one? Fake coins - Jokes kz

It is difficult to say when the first counterfeit coins appeared - probably around the same time as their originals. It is quite natural that counterfeit coins differed from original ones in the past in that they were inferior in quality of workmanship and materials. Today we will talk about how to distinguish a fake in our article.

However, if the age of such specimens is measured in centuries, then they are also of interest to collectors, since they themselves are antiques.

Another thing is modern counterfeits of coins that have collectible value and enormous value. They are of no historical value and were specially created for the purpose of profit. That is why it is important to know the signs by which you can distinguish an original from a fake.

How coins are counterfeited

Previously, the most common methods of counterfeiting were the banal dilution of the alloy or the replacement of the precious metal with similar-looking but cheaper analogues.

If we talk about the method of making counterfeit coins, then in the case of gold it was casting, since this metal pours very well. Copper and silver coins were most often counterfeited by copying the stamp.

Naturally, such a method did not provide 100% similarity with the original, so fakes were quickly identified even with ordinary visual analysis. However, modern technologies make it possible to reduce the differences between counterfeit and original coins to a minimum.

Examples of counterfeit coins

Below we present photographs of some counterfeit coins, the differences from the originals are minimal.

Casting method Embossing with a fake stamp
Casting method Hand engraving

What to look for when identifying a fake

Of course, without having at least some experience and precise instruments, one has to, as they say, “by eye” to determine whether a coin is genuine or not. But still, most numismatists advise paying attention to certain parameters and indicators characteristic of certain coins. We will consider them further.

General form

First of all, you need to pay attention to the compliance of the specimen in question with the standard parameters of the original - diameter, weight and thickness. It is also necessary to take a closer look at the general lines of the coin, the clarity of the minting or casting.

If the specimen was made using casting, then the edge may turn out to be blunt , which in most cases indicates a fake. At the same time, additional evidence towards a fake may be the detection of bubbles due to poor-quality casting , which are very difficult to remove even with the help of enhanced polishing.

And, of course, it is worth paying attention to the legend of the coin. If it is fake, then all the images on its surface may not be clear, and the mint mark is often simply not placed.

Metal properties

The main thing that you should pay attention to when analyzing the metal of a coin is its similarity with other similar specimens, preferably of the same age, ideally identical to the analyzed specimen.

In this case, not only the color of the metal itself is compared, but also the patina. This way you can determine whether the coin was restored or cleaned before putting it up for sale.

Next you need to take a closer look at the shine of the metal. If this shine is “greasy”, then either there is a lot of zinc in the alloy, or the coin is amalgamated.

If the luster can be described as matte when viewed with the naked eye, then we can conclude that the coin, for example, is gilded and not made entirely of gold.

Excessive shine may be a sign of recent manufacturing or excessive polishing.

If there are damages and abrasions on the surface of the coin, these should also be examined carefully. In such places, foreign metal may “peek out” if the specimen is fake. And finally, one of the main differences between coins made of such precious metals as silver and gold is the loud and melodious ringing sound when falling on a stone surface .

Additional tips for beginners

Of course, in addition to the methods described above for determining the authenticity of a coin, there are many others. They can only be used by professional collectors who have not only a certain amount of knowledge, but also the necessary equipment for this.

The most accurate result can only be obtained by spectral analysis . But, since most novice collectors do not have the opportunity to carry it out, it is advisable to acquire at least a magnifying glass and a microscope. You should also know exactly what the original should look like, at least according to the reference book.

In any case, be careful and only buy coins from trusted and reputable suppliers.

Source: http://zmakemoney.com/kak-otlichit-serebryanye-monety-ot-poddelok.html

Examination and verification of coins for authenticity

The authenticity of a coin from the times of Tsarist Russia can be established through examination. Examination of a coin is a series of activities aimed at research in order to prove or disprove its numismatic value. As the number of Russian collectors grows, the number of fakes also does not remain the same. To avoid getting into trouble, you need to contact the appropriate service, and also know the obvious characteristics of a fake.

In this article we will talk about professional expertise and provide some tips to help you figure it out on your own.

Return

The concept of counterfeit

What is the difference between counterfeit and counterfeit? The counterfeit coin was made in the same historical period as the original, with the goal of replacing it in payment. It often costs more than the original itself! A counterfeit is a modern copy of a coin.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpHf6RpLlkI

A counterfeit should not be confused with a remake, which is an “official” counterfeit made by the bank. The price for such a copy is appropriate. If you don’t have a rare coin in your collection, it’s better to buy a new one than the copy you need, the authenticity of which you doubt.

Return

Coin examination methods

An elementary way to be sure of an attempt at falsification is to compare the coin with a standard, if one is available. Otherwise, you will have to check the catalog photo and reference descriptions. But this information is not enough to estimate the cost, so this point is followed by others.

• Measurement of physical parameters.

You need to weigh a coin on an electronic scale with an accuracy of up to a milligram, and the resulting value must coincide with the catalog value. The same goes for thickness and diameter - they should be measured to the tenth of a millimeter using a caliper. Deviations of a millimeter cast doubt on the authenticity of the coin.

Banknotes of Ukraine

• Detection of signs of foundry production.

It is not so difficult to distinguish an old coin from a new one made by high-precision casting. A professional can immediately detect some anomalies in the design of the coin. If there is a standard, then when compared they will be confirmed. If not, the accuracy of the examination result is reduced. Signs of a fake coin:

1. Unnatural shine. Especially where it shouldn't be. A pronounced white or yellow color is also a sign of a fake.
2. No signs of wear. If the coin was in circulation, its surface was subject to physical damage. It may have scratches or be bent. There are well-preserved examples, but they will not look like they were just minted.
3. Atypical design of the edge. The edge must be completely identical to the edge of the standard coin. It should have the same number of notches, the same inscriptions or drawings. As a rule, they cannot be faked. But you need to pay attention to whether there is a scar along the edge? If there is, the coin was cast in molds, it is a fake.
4. Checking the clarity of the engraving. To prove the authenticity of a coin, you need to make sure that all the elements are worked out in the same way as on the standard, their drawing is just as clear.
5. The presence of excessive angularity of elements, dots, and depressions is a characteristic feature of cast coins.
6. Study of the texture of coin surfaces. The dullness and shine should be in their proper places; there should be no differences from the standard coin.

Sometimes having a magnifying glass or microscope helps you make an accurate decision. Using a magnifying lens, you can see whether the design elements of the coin under study have been adjusted to match the valuable standard.

• Study of the chemical composition of the alloy.

When assessing the value, it is important to recognize not only the authenticity of the item, but also the metal from which it is made. Is platinum real or fake? The examination involves taking measures that will reveal or refute the authenticity of the coin and the sample of the metal from which it is made.

The most expensive coins of Tsarist Russia

For a coin made of a two-component alloy, hydrostatic weighing is suitable. First, the weight of the coin is measured in air, then in water. The resulting difference in grams is equal to the volume of the coin in cubic centimeters. This way you can determine the sample of the metal.

An examination method such as X-ray spectral analysis may be effective. To carry it out you will need a standard coin. If it matches the coin being examined and the standard, then the authenticity of the specimen is indisputable. The analysis can be carried out using a special unit. This cannot be done at home without harming the coin or yourself.

The volume of impurities in the ligature and the composition of the coin can be determined using a microscope. By magnifying the image 400-600 times, you can recognize not only the metal sample, but also see its corrosion. If it really exists, then the coin is genuine.

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Examination of the authenticity of royal coins

The problem of proving the authenticity of royal coins is the lack of standardization and technology for their production. Differences in coin weight may be noticeable. Appearance may also vary. The angle of the notches on the edge and the angle of inclination of the letters in the inscriptions will be different, even if the coins were minted within one year. This applies to all 18th century coins.

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Is it possible to determine the value of a coin at home?

There are ways to identify artisanal, low-quality fakes in the walls of a house. Some of them jeopardize the physical condition of the coin and do not provide accurate information, especially to a beginner. So it's better to turn to the experts.

1. Whether a coin is made of ordinary steel can be determined using a magnet. If the coin is attracted to it, it is a fake.
2. It is enough to throw a coin on the table and pay attention to the sound that will accompany its fall. If he is deaf, then the coin is not real. The original rings clearly.
3. If you put a coin in nitric acid, it will collapse. If it is a fake, the real coin will remain intact.
4. The shine, uncharacteristic of old coins, reveals a fake that was made quite recently.
5. You need to put the coin on the edge. A fake will immediately fall due to the poor quality of the edge.

Income, expenses and savings

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If the fake is good, then it is not easy to expose it at home, and it is not necessary. Only experts will be able to give an accurate assessment of the coin’s value and confirm its origin.

The appearance of a genuine antique coin is characterized by patina - a coating that forms as a result of oxidation of the top layer of the coin.

It gives a real coin a solid, aesthetic appearance, and is formed as a result of storing the coin in good conditions. Fraudsters often try to fake the patina, but it is easy to distinguish by the unevenness of the coin’s coating. It is located in spots and has sharp color transitions; to notice this, you need to be an attentive and experienced collector.

Source: https://Dengivsetakipahnyt.com/reyting/kak-opredelit-podlinnost-monety.html

How to determine the authenticity of coins. Simple methods for beginners

Due to the increasing interest in numismatics in the world, the number of counterfeit coins is also increasing exponentially. This is especially true for rare, ancient, expensive coins made of precious metals, but rare coin defects are also counterfeited.

Experienced numismatists say that after 2 years of active interest in numismatics, a collector, willy-nilly, begins to distinguish original coins from fakes. What might a novice numismatist need to determine the authenticity of coins and, in general, how to determine for himself whether it is a real rarity or a fake?

Authenticity Tools

It is very advisable for a beginning numismatist to have the following tools in his arsenal:

• A detailed catalog of coins with a full description of the specimens of interest to the collector and their high-quality color photographs. The catalog contains not only a description of the obverse and reverse, but also physical and chemical characteristics, such as the alloy of the coin, its weight, etc.
• Electronic scales are necessary to determine the exact weight of the specimen under study and compare it with the weight indicated in the catalogue. There are known cases when coins made of gold and platinum were sawed in half and part of the precious metal was taken out from the middle. Then the cavity was filled with another metal or alloy and the two parts were connected so that it was simply impossible to notice the manipulations with the naked eye. But electronic scales always showed the difference between the catalog weight and the actual weight.
• A magnifying glass will help you examine all the small details of the specimen being studied, along with its description and photograph in the catalog.
• Spectrometer. Such a device is extremely necessary when working with rare and expensive coins - the most counterfeited ones, by the way. It helps to determine the presence of impurities in the metal, thereby identifying the fake.

Initial assessment of coin authenticity

If you do not have the necessary tools at the time of purchase, and the coin seems very interesting from a collecting point of view, try to determine its authenticity in the following ways:

Sound

If you throw a coin on a flat, hard surface, the original copy will make a ringing, clear sound, while a counterfeit made from counterfeit metal will hit with a dull sound, unusual for coin alloys. By the way, the hydrostatic weighing method allows you to determine the composition of coins made of two-component alloys.

edge

Its edge can tell a lot about a coin, and it’s worth taking a closer look. The presence of suspicious grooves, horizontal seams, often carefully disguised, as well as a smooth, blunt edge indicate the dubious quality of the coin.

Numismatists are often interested in such coin defects as “stamp rotation,” which counterfeiters readily counterfeit.

And if the seller refuses to take a copy out of the capsule so that you can carefully examine the edge, it’s worth considering whether this money is really genuine.

Reverse and obverse

Examine the details of the images on the reverse and obverse - fake copies often have small details missing or blurred, and there may also be small bubbles that are invisible without a magnifying glass.

Color and shine

The shine and color of the metal can also tell a lot about the money. Too bright a shine for a fairly old coin is a sign of excessive polishing. An artificial patina may be present, but only experts can determine its authenticity.

Visible damage

Chips, abrasions, and damage to the edge can tell about the composition of the metal from which the coin is made. Sometimes it is clearly visible that the coin is only coated with noble metal, and there is some inexpensive alloy inside.

Of course, there are such coin defects as “metal mix-ups”, when copper coins, for example, were minted from brass by mistake, but this happened very rarely, possible defects are also recorded and described in catalogs, so always keep reference books at hand.

Bead condition

Pay attention to the condition of the collar. If it is not clearly defined, seems erased or too streamlined, this may be a sign that the coin was not minted, but simply cast.

Finalization of details

Counterfeiters also commit mechanical modifications to parts of the obverse or reverse. This is especially true for coins with many varieties, some of which are rarities. The process usually involves under-engraving, sawing off signs, soldering letters, etc.

Source: https://Coinza.ru/kak-opredelit-podlinnost-monet.html