How to make wire desoldering

How to connect wires in a junction box

No electrical wiring diagram can do without some kind of connections, branching wires or cables. There is a special box for this purpose. It is located under the ceiling and is a round or square box made of polymer material.

In this material we will tell you how to make connections correctly, demonstrate diagrams, photos and video instructions.

Why use a junction box

Wiring connection in the junction box

There are cases when, when installing electrical wiring, they neglect the installation of such distributors, considering that this is just a waste of time, since the box must first be installed, then the connections to it must be made, which will lead to additional difficulties. It’s easier to simply twist, insulate and simply plaster the wall. But here you need to think a little ahead, since in this case important points are missed:

• No free access to wires. For example, if the socket in your room does not work or the light has gone out, and after checking it turns out that the problem is a lack of voltage. How to check? Completely remove the trim? Tearing off wallpaper and plaster to get to the twist? This will ruin your renovation.
• If you want to install an additional outlet. It is not always convenient to connect it by laying wires from a previously installed outlet. Thanks to the distribution box, you can easily make new connections.
• The regulatory document PUE states that “places of connections and branches must be accessible for inspection and repair,” therefore the installation of such a distributor cannot be neglected.
• The absence of such distributors is contrary to fire safety standards.

As you can see, the distribution box plays an important role. But installing it is just the beginning. All that remains is to connect all the wires in it. What's the best way to do this? Let's look at some ways.

Types of connections

Types of wire connections

What is the task when connecting wires? Ensure good contact between the cores so that the chain does not break and there is no risk of a short circuit. In order to ensure this, you can act in several ways:

1. Twisting.
2. Crimping.
3. Welding.
4. Soldering with a soldering iron.
5. Use of screw terminals.
6. Bolted connections.
7. Self-clamping terminals.

These are time-tested methods that you can use to ensure reliable contact. Let's take a closer look at each of them. You will learn how to properly connect wires using any of these options.

Twist

Twisting wires

Such twists in the distribution box are officially prohibited. The seventh edition of the regulatory document PUE, chapter 2, paragraph 2.1/21 lists all types of permissible connections, but there is no twisting in them.

And this is not surprising, since such a contact is sensitive to pulse current and has a high transition resistance. Over time, the contact will deteriorate and simply burn out.

Due to the fact that the contact area is small, heating occurs under heavy loads and the contact is weakened even more.

It is not recommended to use this type of connection, although some craftsmen still use it. If you choose twisting, all responsibility falls on you.

This option is chosen because of its simplicity. It is enough just to strip 10–20 mm of insulation and twist the wires together using pliers. This is what our fathers and great-grandfathers did. But such a connection is often unreliable, especially if an aluminum core is used.

Crimping with a connecting sleeve

Cross-sectional crimping of copper wires

A fairly reliable method that will require the purchase of a connecting sleeve. You need to select it based on the diameter of the bundle being connected. Depending on the wires you connect, the material of the sleeve itself is selected.

For copper wires the sleeve must be copper, for aluminum wires - aluminum. To ensure a reliable connection, the sleeve is crimped with a special tool called press pliers.

This technology is quite effective and is included, along with other methods, in regulatory documents.

Crimping connection of aluminum wires

To connect this way you need:

1. Remove the insulation, taking into account the length of your sleeve.
2. Twist the wires into a bundle and insert them into the sleeve.
3. Compress the sleeve using press pliers.
4. Insulate the twisting area with heat shrink or insulating tape.

It is not recommended to use pliers in such work, since the connection will not be reliable enough. It is much better to buy press pliers or borrow them from good neighbors.

Welding

Welding wires

This method can be called the most reliable and safe, because the wires are connected using fusion and become one. Due to the fact that the welding will not oxidize, such contact will not weaken over time. But to carry out such work you will need skills in working with welding equipment.

In addition to skills, you must prepare:

• 24 volt welding machine with a power of more than 1 kW;
• welding gloves for skin protection;
• welding glasses or mask;
• sandpaper for stripping wires;
• stationery knife for removing insulation;
• carbon electrode;
• flux, thanks to which the melt will be protected from exposure to air.

Welding copper to aluminum

After all the tools and materials are ready, all that remains is to do the welding, which will not be difficult. The work can be divided into several steps:

1. Remove 60–80 mm of insulation and clean them using sandpaper. The veins should shine.
2. Connect the wires using the twisting method, twisting one onto the other so that the ends are level with each other. It is recommended to make the length at least 50 mm.
3. Pour flux into the recess of your electrode.
4. Place the ground of the device on the bare wire, turn on the welding machine and press the electrode to the top of the twist.
5. Hold the electrode until a ball called a contact point forms. This usually takes 1–3 seconds.
6. All that remains is to clear the point of flux and insulate the welding site with heat-shrinkable tubing or electrical tape.

This type of connection will last a long time. In some old Khrushchev buildings, such welding lasted 50 years and consistently performed its function.

Soldering with a soldering iron

Soldering twists with a soldering iron

The method is very similar to welding, only in this case the wires are connected using solder. For these works you will need a soldering iron. To work you will need:

• soldering iron;
• fine sandpaper;
• rosin (flux);
• brush for applying rosin;
• tin-lead solder.

The operating procedure is the same as for welding:

1. Removing insulation and cleaning with sandpaper.
2. Twisting.
3. Application of flux.
4. Direct soldering. The soldering iron melts the solder, which should flow into the twist itself, reliably connecting the wires to each other.

Soldered wiring in the junction box with a soldering iron

Often copper wires are soldered using this method, but if you purchase special solder for soldering aluminum, you can also solder copper from aluminum.

Soldering is quite reliable, but is not recommended in areas where there may be strong heat. Moreover, under mechanical stress, the connection may weaken.

Using screw terminals

Connection of copper and aluminum wires

This method is fast, simple and effective. And most importantly, such clamps can combine dissimilar metals. For example, if you need to connect aluminum and copper conductors, which in itself, as you know, is contraindicated. These clamps are very simple and compact, and their cost may pleasantly surprise you.

Terminal blocks

To connect wires with clamps you only need to complete 2 steps:

1. Remove 5 mm of insulation.
2. Insert into the clamps and tighten the screw.

Melted terminal block contacts

That's all, as you can see, everything is very simple and fast. It is only important to control the force with which you clamp. If you tighten the screw too tightly, you may damage the wires. You need to be especially careful when working with aluminum wires.

Crimp lugs

The only disadvantage of a screw connection is that when working with a multi-core cable, it must be crimped with a special nozzle to ensure normal contact and integrity of the wire.

Bolted connections

Bolted connection

This connection is quite reliable, but cumbersome. It is not suitable for modern distribution boxes due to its dimensions, but for large old-style boxes it is just right. This method can be used to connect both homogeneous and dissimilar metals. The work is carried out as follows:

1. A steel washer is placed on the bolt.
2. The insulation is removed from the conductors and they are formed into a ring.
3. The first ring is put on the bolt.
4. Then comes another steel washer, which is placed on the bolt after the first.
5. The second connecting wire is put on top.
6. This entire “sandwich” is clamped with a nut.
7. In the end, everything needs to be insulated.

It is this design that makes the contact bulky. If you need to connect several pairs of wires, then this option will not be the best.

Self-clamping terminals

This method can be called the most modern, popular and easy to use. All you need is to buy special terminals at the store. Inside these terminals there is a special paste that prevents metals from oxidizing. Thanks to this, various metals can be inserted into such joints.

The work is as follows:

1. 10 mm of insulation is removed from each wire.
2. The lever, which is located on the clip, rises up.
3. The conductors are inserted into the connector.
4. The lever lowers to its original position.

If your clamps do not have levers, they must be inserted until the terminal snaps into place.

Connecting wires with a terminal block without levers

We have looked at the most reliable methods by which you can combine wires in a junction box. This is a very important stage of electrical installation work, since 70% of errors during the work consist precisely in incorrect connection of conductors.

But if you, even without experience in such work, use the methods given in this article, you can easily do everything in accordance with the requirements of the regulations. But which of these methods to choose depends on your capabilities and desires.

This video shows how to connect wires in a junction box:

You will learn everything about sleeving wires or crimping lugs from the material provided in this video:

Scheme

Box diagram

Switch and socket block diagram

Connection

Junction box connection diagram

Connecting sockets

Switch connection diagram

Junction box

Connecting wires

Wire connection diagram in the box

Source: https://kakpravilnosdelat.ru/kak-soedinit-provoda-v-raspredelitelnoy-korobke/

Methods for connecting wires to each other

First of all, you must understand that different types of connections may be used in different conditions. And their choice depends on the specific task at hand.

For example, it is much more convenient to connect small-section wires up to 2.5 mm2 in a compact junction box with terminal blocks or clamps. But if we are talking about a groove or a cable channel, then the sleeves come first.

Let's consider the three most simple and at the same time reliable types of connections.

Let's start with the connection type PPE. It stands for:

It looks like a simple cap. Comes in different colors.

The cores are inserted into this cap and twisted together.

How to do it correctly, first twist the wires and then put on a cap or twist them directly with the PPE itself, is discussed in detail in the article “PPE cap for twisting wires.”

As a result, thanks to PPE, you get a good old twist, only immediately protected and insulated.

On top of that, it has a spring-loaded contact that prevents it from coming loose.

In addition, this process can be slightly automated by using an attachment for PPE for a screwdriver. This is also discussed in the above article.

The next type is Wago terminal blocks. They also come in different sizes, and for different numbers of connected wires - two, three, five, eight.

They can connect both monocores and stranded wires together.
Moreover, this can be implemented both in different types of Vago, and in just one.

For stranded ones, the clamp must have a latch-flag, which, when open, easily allows you to insert the wire and clamp it inside after latching.

According to the manufacturer, these terminal blocks in home wiring can easily withstand loads of up to 24A (lights, sockets).

There are some compact specimens also available for 32A-41A.

Here are the most popular types of Wago clamps, their markings, characteristics and what cross-section they are designed for:

There is also an industrial series for cable cross-sections up to 95mm2. Their terminals are really large, but the principle of operation is almost the same as that of small ones.

When you measure the load on such terminals, with a current value of more than 200A, and at the same time you see that nothing is burning or heating, many doubts about Wago products disappear.

If you have original Vago clamps, and not a Chinese counterfeit, and the line is protected by a circuit breaker with a correctly selected setting, then this type of connection can rightfully be called the simplest, most modern and convenient to install.

Violate any of the above conditions and the result will be quite natural.

Therefore, there is no need to install wago at 24A and at the same time protect such wiring with a 25A automatic. In this case, the contact will burn out if overloaded.

Always choose the right terminal blocks for your car.

There is also a fairly old type of connection, such as terminal blocks. ZVI – insulated screw clamp.

In appearance, this is a very simple screw connection of wires to each other. Again, it comes in different sections and different shapes.

Here are their technical characteristics (current, cross-section, dimensions, screw torque):

However, ZVI has a number of significant disadvantages, due to which it cannot be called the most successful and reliable connection.

Basically, you can only connect two wires to each other in this way. Unless, of course, you specifically choose large pads and shove several wires there. What to do is not recommended.

This screw connection works well for monocores, but not for stranded flexible wires.

For flexible wires, you will have to press them with NShVI lugs and incur additional costs.

You can find videos online where, as an experiment, transition resistances on different types of connections are measured with a microohmmeter.

But we should not forget that this experiment refers to “fresh contacts.” Try making the same measurements after a year or two of intensive use. The results will be completely different.

Often a situation arises when it is necessary to connect a copper conductor to an aluminum one. Since the chemical properties of copper and aluminum are different, direct contact between them, with access to oxygen, leads to oxidation. Often even copper contacts on circuit breakers are susceptible to this phenomenon.

An oxide film forms, resistance increases, and heating occurs. Here we recommend using 3 options to avoid this:

• bolt + nut with steel washers

They remove direct contact between aluminum and copper. The connection occurs through steel.

• special Wago terminal blocks with paste

The contacts are separated from each other in separate cells, plus the paste prevents the access of air and prevents the oxidation process from developing.

• use of copper-aluminum adapter sleeves GMA

The third simple way to connect conductors is crimping with sleeves.

GML sleeves are most often used for joining copper wires. Deciphered as:

For connecting pure aluminum - GA (aluminum sleeve):

To switch from copper to aluminum, special adapters GAM:

What is the crimping method? Everything is quite simple. Take two conductors and strip them to the required distance.

After this, on each side of the sleeve, the conductors are inserted inside, and the whole thing is crimped with press pliers.

Despite its obvious simplicity, there are several rules and nuances in this procedure, if not followed, you can easily ruin a seemingly reliable contact. Read about these mistakes and rules on how to avoid them in the articles “5 Rules of Crimping” and “Crimping Insulated Tips, Sleeves and Terminals”.

To work with conductors of large sections 35mm2-240mm2, a hydraulic press is used.

Up to cross-sections of 35mm2, you can also use a mechanical one with a large span of handles.

The sleeve must be crimped two to four times, depending on the cross-section of the wire and the length of the tube.

The most important thing in this work is to choose the correct sleeve size.

And in this way you can connect several conductors at one point at the same time. In this case, only one sleeve will be used.

The main thing is to completely fill its internal space. If you are crimping three conductors at the same time, and you still have voids inside, then you need to “fill” this free space with additional pieces of the same wire, or with conductors of a smaller cross-section.

Only after this can you press.

After crimping, such a connection must be insulated. The most convenient way to do this is with a heat-shrinkable tube HERE.  

There are tubes with an adhesive base. When heated, this glue flows out and ensures the tightness of the connection.

Insulation using a thermal tube is also a fairly simple process. In the absence of a gas burner or hair dryer, even a lighter is sufficient for small sections.

Sleeve crimping is one of the most versatile and reliable connections, especially when it is necessary to extend the cable, including the input cable.

In this case, the insulation turns out to be almost equivalent to the main one, when also using the outer tube HERE as a casing.
Of course, you won’t use either PPE or Wago for these purposes, but GML cartridges are just the thing! At the same time, everything comes out compact and can be easily reduced, either in a groove or in a cable channel.

In addition to all the above connection methods, there are two more types that experienced electricians rightfully consider the most reliable.

• electric welding

• soldering wires

However, this type of docking cannot be classified as simple. It requires special equipment, which even 90% of electricians often do not have available.

And even with its help it is not always possible to connect an aluminum monocore wire with a flexible copper stranded one. In addition, you are forever tied to an outlet or extension cord.

What if there is no voltage or generator nearby? More details

At the same time, on the contrary, 90% of electrical installers have elementary press pliers. It is not necessary to purchase the most expensive and sophisticated ones for this.

For example, batteries. It’s convenient, of course, just walk and press a button.

The Chinese counterparts also cope well with their task of crimping. Moreover, the entire process takes no more than 1 minute.

Source: https://domikelectrica.ru/sposoby-soedineniya-provodov-mezhdu-soboj/

How can you connect the wires in a junction box?

The connection of wires affects the safety and reliability of electrical wiring. It is performed in different ways, using connecting devices and devices, depending on the characteristics of the wires.

Why use a junction box?

A distribution (otherwise a junction box, a branching box) is a type of installation box in which wire switching and electrical connections are made. It can be round, rectangular, square in shape, plastic, steel, fiberglass, aluminum in material.

The device is a container, the purpose of which, in any method of connecting wires in a distribution box, is to hide the branch of the electrical network. In addition, it allows you to effectively redistribute the load on networks and prevent short circuits in them.

There are many ways to connect wires in a junction box. The simplest one - twisting - was previously a priority. Today it is considered dangerous and unreliable. It was replaced by special connecting devices, devices designed for the various characteristics of the cables being connected.

Methods for connecting conductors

Correctly connecting the wires to each other means ensuring the reliability and safety of the electrical network. There are numerous types of wire connections. You can use long-used ones - twisting, soldering, bolting. It’s easier and faster to get the job done by using a cable connector - a special device that allows you to reliably connect cables of different diameters, single- and multi-core, from various materials,

Using Terminal Blocks

Blocks for connecting wires are a type of electrical installation products. They are called terminal blocks, terminals, terminal blocks, terminal blocks, KB, terminal clamps, terminal connectors. Contains 2 metal contacts or more. The latter have nodes in which cables are secured and are placed inside a dielectric housing, often sealed (filled with gel).

There are many types of terminal connectors. They are distinguished:

• by installation method: screw, detachable, push, barrier, pass-through;
• single-, double- and multi-row;
• for one-, two-, three-row and multi-tier cables;
• angular and straight;
• for single- and multi-core, flexible conductors;
• according to the method of wire clamping: screw, spring, knife, end.

Source: https://odinelectric.ru/wiring/wires/kak-soedinit-provoda-v-raspredelitelnoj-korobke

Soldering twisted wires in a junction box

When I need to connect copper wires in a junction box, I twist and solder them. However, at the moment there is a lot of debate about reliability: some claim that the soldered connection is the most reliable, while others criticize soldering and recommend spring terminal blocks. It is worth noting that the supporters of the soldering iron are experienced, Soviet-trained electricians.

Today we will not find out which is better - in my opinion, an objective assessment of the quality of connections will be a comparative test at extreme currents, perhaps in the future we will conduct a similar test. But now let's talk about how to twist wires in junction boxes and actually solder them.

I would like to note: despite the fact that the process is simple and easy to master, it must be performed with care and accuracy. After all, all fires, as a rule, are caused by poor contact in one place or another.

Tool

To perform all operations we need the following tool:

Soldering iron 100-150 W with a copper tip. Ordinary, without frills in the form of a fireproof sting and other things. The sting can be straight or curved.

We will also need side cutters (nippers), pliers (pliers) and a construction knife. When working with thick twists, where, for example, 4 mm² cores will be present, additional pliers will be needed.

An optional tool includes pliers for stripping insulation: you can do without them, but with this tool things go faster.

Solder selection

Choosing the right solder for soldering twists is the most crucial moment. The final result depends on the solder. In the process of using different brands of solder, I tried to identify a pattern between the quality of soldering and the percentage of tin. However, such a relationship could not be found.

The only thing that can be said with complete confidence is that the solder must have flux inside. This is not surprising: the soldering method does not require the application of flux to the twists, but flux is necessary.

It is most convenient to use solder in a wire 1mm or so thick. It is sold in spools or plastic tubes.

By and large, you will have to choose solder by trial and error; I don’t see any other method. Well, here are a few examples of solders from several manufacturers:

This solder is well suited for soldering twists. And it’s better not to take the one below - it solders thin strands of 2 wires 1.5 mm² well, but it will only ruin thicker strands.

Here's another pretty good REXANT solder:

When choosing solder for the first time, the best option would be to buy a small tube for testing. Well, remember which of the purchased brands soldered well and which ones poorly. Actually, this is such a simple science.

In addition to solder, it is good to have a cleaner on hand - regular alcohol. Many copper strands, even new ones, are covered with layers of oxides or other deposits that make soldering difficult.

A good cleaner option is TAGS flux - it perfectly cleans the surface of copper conductors and in addition helps the soldering process.

Twisting wires

So, all wires are stripped of the general insulation that protects the entire cable. For each individual core, the twist length plus a small margin is taken - the base of the twist must be twisted with insulated cores. In general, you should try to put extra centimeters of wires in the box just in case.

Tip: always try to put more wires in the junction box, even taking into account the twists already made. Perhaps sometime in the future new lines will be added here or some repairs will be made. It would be good practice to consider the repairability of the boxes, even if you are confident in the reliability and quality of your work.

For the twists themselves, the cores are stripped to 10 centimeters - after twisting, the excess will be bitten off with side cutters. The final twist length of bare wires must be at least 4 cm. If installation is carried out in spacious junction boxes, the length of the twists can be increased to 7-8 cm. The main thing is that the twists fit into the box without bending.

But I got ahead of myself a little: before twisting the exposed wires, you need to wipe them thoroughly with a cloth soaked in alcohol or TAGS flux. After processing, the surface of the copper should have a uniform yellow color without dark areas - only then can twisting be done. If the veins are covered with too thick oxide, then before wiping they can be treated with fine sandpaper.

When soft, stranded conductors are present among the wires being twisted, they should be cleaned of oxides with special care.

Twisting is done with pliers so that a few centimeters of insulation also become part of the twist. You should tighten it with sufficient force, but you must not overdo it and not break any of the wires. Here it is recommended to first practice on test twists and “feel” the material.

When twisting a large number of wires or when the cross-section of the wires is large (4 mm² for example), the base of the twist must be held with additional pliers.

When the twists are twisted, they need to be shortened with side cutters to the length we need. Shorter than 4 cm is not recommended.

The junction box is twisted, you can start soldering.

Soldering

While the soldering iron is heating up, you need to “apply” solder to the twists. To do this, solder wire is wound onto each twist in increments of 1-3 mm. The winding pitch depends on the total thickness of all twisted wires and is found experimentally. The solder should be wound tightly so that it fits as tightly as possible to the copper surface.

If the twist contains stranded conductors, then more solder should be wound than usual. Stranded wires require much more tin - you need to take into account the number of flexible conductors in the total volume.

Using a heated soldering iron, touch the edge of the twist and wait until the solder melts. When melting the solder, we move the soldering iron to the base - the solder should melt before the soldering iron reaches its melting point. Key point: the soldering iron heats the metal, and the metal in turn melts the solder. By the way: it is not necessary to move the soldering iron from the edge to the base of the twist; you can do the opposite - from the base to the edge.

The solder should fill all the voids between the conductors and solder all the twists. Visually - the solder should be visible from all contacts of the cores with each other. Small strands are completely covered with solder, while larger ones are covered with solder where the cores touch each other.

Molten solder will definitely drip down, so you need to take all necessary measures to protect both yourself and the surrounding area.

If there are doubts that the solder has filled all hard-to-reach places, then soldering can be repeated again. To do this, you need to wipe the soldering area well with alcohol or TAGS, wind the solder and repeat everything. In such situations, the quality of the solder immediately becomes evident: the “crappy” solder will never be able to solder the second time.

After soldering, the strands are ready for insulation; they can be “wrapped” with electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing. Since we did not use soldering acid or other aggressive fluxes, there is no need to wash the soldering areas. When laying them in place, you should avoid bending the soldered areas.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2J-6t4Rfb0

In conclusion, I would like to say that soldering connections in boxes is a fairly simple matter. However, you will have to practice a little first and perhaps try several different solders.

Source: https://yserogo.ru/remont/payka-raspredkorobok.html

Correct connection of electrical wires: do-it-yourself soldering

There is wiring in every house. And the correct connection of wires is part of the safety of the electrical network and its trouble-free operation.

Installation of electrical wiring in an apartment or cottage involves connecting the wires of distribution boxes and switchboards. The safety of the electrical network and its trouble-free operation depend on how correctly and efficiently all connections are made.

Correct connection of electrical wires

 
Methods for connecting electrical wires

Electricians use the following methods for connecting wires:

• twisted;
• soldering;
• using terminal blocks;
• crimping;
• with bolts;
• plastic PPE;
• “Wago” – spring terminals;
• "nuts" made of plastic.

The choice depends:

• from the material of the wire (cable) cores;
• on the operating conditions of the electrical network (external or internal wiring, hidden or laid openly);
• from the cross-section of the connected conductors;
• on the number of cores in one connection.

The connection of the distribution box wires must be made in such a way as to ensure reliable contact and avoid heating the wires. Here is an overview of the above methods for connecting current-carrying conductors.

 
Features of using terminal blocks to connect electrical wires

 
The terminal block consists of a plastic housing, a brass or copper bushing with threads and screws located on both sides.

This device allows you to:

• save on electrical equipment: the terminal block is cheaper than other connectors;
• connect the wires securely;
• connect cores of dissimilar metals (copper with aluminum);
• reduce installation time.

Disadvantages of terminal connectors:

• unsuitability for connecting more than two conductors;
• difficulties when connecting aluminum conductors: if the screw is over-tightened, the metal may break;
• unsuitable for use with multi-core wires.

The connection of electrical wires in the terminal block is carried out as follows.

The outer insulation is partially removed from the cables and the cores are exposed. The length of the bare conductor depends on the size of the terminal.

The length of the wire section without insulation is checked, for which you need to unscrew the terminal screw and insert the core completely into the hole. The excess is cut off with side cutters.

To improve contact, the copper wire is tinned. The connected cores are inserted into the terminals one by one and clamped with screws in several stages.

The reliability of the connection is checked.

Tip: in order to remove the insulation without damaging the core, it is recommended to use a special tool. If this is not available, only the surface layer of insulation is cut in a circle with a sharp knife, after which the wire should be bent along the cut line. After breaking, the insulation is removed with a light movement of pliers.

 
We use spring terminals to connect electrical wires

The connection of conductors with spring terminals is carried out using springs that press the contact plate to the metal of the core. The mechanism is driven by a special lever.

Wago type terminal connector

The Wago technology has a number of advantages over other installation methods:

• allows you to connect aluminum wires with copper;
• can be used to connect more than two wires;
• allow you to switch wires in small junction boxes;
• installation is carried out efficiently and in the shortest possible time;
• conductor cores are not damaged;
• After installation, it is possible to check the continuity of the circuit using a device probe or indicator through a hole in the housing.

In order to connect the wires using Wago terminals, it is necessary to remove the insulation so that the exposed wires are not visible, then insert the wires into the connector sockets and press the levers until they stop.

Note: Wago spring terminals are available in reusable and disposable versions. The latter, if it is necessary to repair the connection, are cut off, after which new connectors are installed.

Connecting conductors using PPE caps

The PPE cap is screwed onto the connection clockwise

The abbreviation PPE means “connecting insulating clamps”. The connector is designed as a spring located in a plastic housing. The spring securely holds the wires together, which creates reliable contact. Advantages of this method:

• the ability to mark wires using colored caps: the “phase” conductors connect red PPE, “zero” – blue or white, “ground” – yellow or green;
• fire protection: connector bodies are made of non-flammable plastic.

Important: connecting copper and aluminum wires using PPE is not allowed.

Crimping with sleeves

Connecting conductor cores with sleeves

The method consists of putting a metal tube (sleeve) on the cores freed from insulation, which is crimped with press pliers. As a result, the conductors are tightly connected to each other. The connection point is isolated.

Important: connections of aluminum and copper conductors may only be made using sleeves specially designed for this purpose.

Welding or soldering technology allows you to obtain a reliable connection of wires

The disadvantage of this method is the inability to monitor the integrity of the network after installation and isolation, as well as the non-repairability of such a connection. Additionally, a DIY soldering torch is dangerous to use.

An alternative to soldering wires is to weld them. The process involves the use of a welding machine.

 
Wire welding technology

When connecting copper wires this way, it is recommended that you try out a DIY copper wire soldering transformer before you begin. It is important to know that copper is smelted at a temperature of 1080 °C, but above 300 °C this metal becomes brittle.

In the absence of a special soldering device, use a conventional inverter welding machine. The step-by-step process of welding wires is as follows.

Up to 10 cm of insulation is removed from the ends of the wires.
The cores of the connected wires are tightly twisted together. The result should be twists approximately 5 cm long.

The ground cable of the inverter apparatus is connected to the twist closer to its beginning.
The current adjustment knob is set in the position from 30 to 90 A (at a voltage of 12 - 36 V): the value is selected depending on the cross-section of the wire and their number.

The carbon electrode of the welding machine briefly (no more than 2 s) touches the twist so that an arc is formed. As a result, a welded monolithic joint is formed at the tip of the twist. After complete cooling, the connection is insulated with heat shrink tubing or adhesive tape.

At the ends of the cores connected by welding, a monolithic alloy is formed

Connecting electrical wires by soldering

Soldering copper wires is an old, proven method that allows you to obtain a reliable electrical connection. The technology allows the installation of monolithic and stranded wires of various sections. There can be several conductors in one connection.

The work is performed using the following technology.

The insulation is removed from the ends of the connected conductors using a special device (approximately 5 cm).
The strands are tightly twisted together manually or using pliers (depending on the number of strands and their sections).

The twist is treated with flux or rosin.
This is necessary to improve the quality of soldering. On an open fire (using a gas burner or a gasoline blowtorch), a cup soldering iron (futorka) is heated red-hot. The cup of the futor is filled to the brim with tin-lead solder grade POS 30, POS 40 or POS 61.

The solder is heated to the point of fluidity.
The twist is briefly (up to 1 second) completely dipped into the futor cup, as a result of which the solder should completely cover the exposed wires.

After natural cooling, the twist is insulated with PVC adhesive tape or a plastic cap.
Important: soldering of wires should be done with safety glasses and tarpaulin gloves. During work, fire safety rules must be observed.

Soldering copper wires is performed as shown in the video.

Connecting wires with simple twisting

Wire connection diagrams in a distribution box for low-power electrical networks can be implemented by simple twisting without the use of additional fixing means. In this case, it is important that the twisting step is as small as possible, and its length is at least 20 mm. Only cores made of homogeneous metals are connected in this way: copper - with copper, aluminum - with aluminum.

It is not allowed to use this installation method in damp rooms and in wooden houses.

After twisting, the wire connection should look as shown in the photo

Walnut clamp

For connecting wires with a cross-section of 4 square meters. mm and it is more convenient to use a “walnut” clamp. It consists of a pair of specially shaped plates that are pressed together with screws at the corners. Advantages of the method:

• ease of connection;
• the ability to connect copper conductors with aluminum ones;
• comparative cheapness of materials.

Important: the “walnut” clamp is not used in distribution boxes (dimensions do not allow). To ensure reliable contact, the screws must be tightened from time to time.

Using a bolted connection to connect electrical wires
To connect large cross-section wires, as well as to install grounding elements in an electrical panel, a bolted connection is used. The ends of the wires, freed from insulation, are screwed onto the bolt threads in a clockwise direction. The connection is pressed with a washer with an engraver and a nut, after which the bolt is isolated.

In conclusion, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the training video (master class with expert comments).

 published econet.ru  

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the experts and readers of our project here.

Source: https://econet.ru/articles/185364-pravilnoe-soedinenie-elektricheskih-provodov-payka-svoimi-rukami

Soldering wires in a junction box: copper wires, twist, tool and solder

Without exception, all electrical wiring diagrams provide for branching and connecting cables and wires. To do this, it is necessary to additionally install a distribution box, which is made of metal or polymer materials. However, installing the structure is not enough; it is important to know the technology for soldering twisted wires in the junction box.

What are distribution boxes for?

Wire junction box

The need to use junction boxes should not be in doubt. To make sure of this, you should read the warnings of experts:

• Neglecting the installation of the structure is a violation of the rules set out in regulatory documents.
• Compliance with fire safety. Thanks to the RK, the likelihood of short circuits and fire is significantly reduced, due to the tightness of the structure.
• Installing the device will take a lot of time, but in the future it will be much easier to upgrade, maintain, repair and extend wires. For example, if you need to install an additional socket or switch, the necessary wires can be removed from the junction box.

In general, installation of a distribution box is required. The installation technology is simple; difficulties may arise when connecting the wires.

General switching rules

The implementation of the soldering method is reminiscent of welding work, only an ordinary soldering iron is used, and not an inverter apparatus with electrodes. Before twisting, the cores must be tinned. To do this, heat up the soldering iron, immerse it in rosin and pass it over the areas stripped of insulation several times until a reddish tint appears.

To ensure quality work, you must first check the soldering iron tip. It is important that it is clean. If the surface is uneven and dirt has accumulated on it, it will be impossible to make high-quality solder. Contaminants are removed with a file, then its end is tinned again.

Advantages of soldering compared to other connection methods

Tool for removing insulation from wires - stripper

There are several ways to connect wires in a junction box, however, only soldering and welding differ in minimum contact resistance and monolithic connection. Anyone can solder wires at home. Welding requires experience and a special welding machine.

To carry out the work you will need the following set of tools:

• flux;
• a knife designed to remove insulating material;
• solder;
• side cutters;
• soldering iron;
• pliers or pliers;
• sandpaper.

You cannot begin work without first preparing all the necessary tools and consumables.

Soldering wires

Stripping the insulation from the wire

Tinning and soldering of cables in the distribution box is carried out in several stages.

1. Removing the insulating layer.
2. Stripping the wires until the characteristic shine of the metal appears.
3. Maintenance.
4. Twisting.
5. Soldering.
6. Isolation.

Before you start connecting the current-carrying wires, you need to analyze what length is required. The wires are cut so that when soldering the ends are located outside the junction box. Upon completion of the work, they are laid in any desired way.

Soldering wires in the junction box is prohibited. The stock in this case is also inappropriate.

To remove the insulating layer, a special tool is used - a stripper or a sharp knife. When working with a sharp knife, the movements should resemble whittling a pencil. It is forbidden to cut the insulating layer with pliers or side cutters; you cannot make circular cuts. Transverse damage will cause a break in the near future.

For a wire intended for soldering, stripping ranges from 1.5-3 cm. The number of turns is at least 2.

Main types of solder wire connections

Before soldering, the wires are thoroughly cleaned and tinned so that oxides do not appear on the surface of the conductors, which interfere with normal conductivity and increase resistance. Already tinned conductors are twisted using pliers or pliers.

Soldering twisted copper wires in a box has a similar algorithm. The twist must be tight, but not tight, otherwise the ends of the conductive wires may simply break off.

Finally, the twisted wires are soldered with a soldering iron so that the solder is covered with an even layer on all sides. The quality of the work depends entirely on how well the ends were stripped.

Selecting the power of the soldering iron

To perform high-quality work, you need to use fairly powerful soldering irons, at least 65 W. This is especially important when working with copper wires, since copper is a good conductor of heat, therefore, it removes heat from the soldering area. If the power of the device is insufficient, this can lead to “cold soldering” - the solder covers the soldered area unevenly, and the strength will be low.

The device should optimally heat the area for 1 minute and no more, the surface of the solder at the end of the work should be smooth and have a uniform shine.

Solder type

There is a wide variety of solders, the main ones are listed in the table.

Solder grade	Compound (%)	Tensile strength (kg/mm)	Melting temperature	Application
POS-30	Lead – 70 Tin – 30	3,2	266	For soldering and tinning of parts made of steel, copper and their alloys
POS-40	Lead – 60 Tin – 40	3,8	238	For soldering and tinning of contacts and parts in radio equipment made of galvanized steel
POS-90	Lead – 10 Tin – 90	4,9	220	For soldering and tinning of medical instruments and metal utensils
POS-61M	Copper – 2 Lead – 37 Tin – 61	4,5	192	For soldering and tinning of printed conductors and copper wires
POS-61 (tertiary)	Lead – 39 Tin – 61	4,3	190	For tinning and soldering of live parts made of bronze, brass and copper with sealed seams
POSV-33	Bismuth – 33.3 Lead – 33.3 Tin – 33.3	–	130	For soldering parts made of constantan, brass and copper with a sealed seam
POSV-50 (Alloy Rose)	Bismuth – 50 Lead – 25 Tin – 50	–	94	For processing parts that are susceptible to overheating
Alloy d Arce	Bismuth – 45.3 Lead – 45.1 Tin – 6.9	–	79	For the production of fuses, tinning and soldering of parts susceptible to overheating
Wood's alloy	Cadmium – 12.5 Bismuth – 50 Lead – 25 Tin – 12.5	–	68,5	An important feature is that it is toxic. Designed for the manufacture of fuses, tinning and soldering of parts susceptible to thermal effects

The last three grades have a low melting point and low alloy strength.

Protecting the soldering area from oxidation

Flux is used to protect the soldering area from oxidation by oxygen. When working with copper, the following are most often used:

• Rosin, it contains only pine rosin.
• LTI-120 includes triethanolamine (1-2%), aniline hydrochloride (3-7%), ethyl alcohol (66-73%), rosin (20-25%).
• The composition of alcohol rosin includes ethyl alcohol (60-70%) and rosin (30-40%).

The simplest, most budget-friendly and at the same time widespread version of flux is ordinary rosin. The only difficulty that may arise when working with a substance is its solid state of aggregation.

Soldering and tinning technology

When starting to solder or tinning wires, it is important to place the wires horizontally so that the soldering iron tip touches all sides without obstruction. Some “experts” recommend placing conductive wires vertically, but this should not be done, since drops of solder may begin to spread.

Before tinning, the wires are heated with a soldering iron and, at the same time, they touch the heating area with a piece of rosin until it begins to melt. If liquid flux is used, it is applied first before heating begins. After tinning, the wires are twisted.

Soldering technology is slightly different because it requires a larger amount of solder. Flux is applied to the conductive wires and heated with a soldering iron until the molten drop is evenly distributed. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated.

Soldering with a torch and crucible

Wire soldering device

If there is a large scope of work ahead, it is advisable to use crucibles, which are a hollow metal cylinder equipped with a handle for filling with molten solder. This device can be heated with a gas burner or used as an attachment for a powerful soldering iron.

The container holds a small amount of molten solder; while it hardens, a person has time to make several twists.

Precautionary measures

Caution should be exercised during work as molten solder can cause severe burns if it comes in contact with the skin. All brands of solder contain lead, the vapors of which are toxic to humans. To prevent poisoning, you need to wear a respirator when working.

When soldering wires, it is prohibited to use acid-containing active fluxes, since they require complete removal after completion of the work. Flux residues have a destructive effect on all materials; soldering acid and zinc chloride are especially aggressive for copper.

In general, the work should not cause difficulties, the main thing is to familiarize yourself with the execution technology in advance, prepare all the consumables and tools.

Source: https://StrojDvor.ru/elektrosnabzhenie/kak-i-chem-spayat-provoda-v-raspredelitelnoj-korobke/

Connecting wires in a junction box: soldering, twisting, welding, etc.

Electrical wiring in the room must be safe and convenient to use. If you strictly follow this rule, then each energy consumer (chandelier, TV, computer, refrigerator) must have its own protection device against short circuits or overheating of the wiring. You can run a separate cable from the personal circuit breaker for each outlet and switch. Two more criteria oppose this: rationality and economy.

General rules for switching electrical cables in distribution boxes

Of course, all requirements for energy supply are set out in the PUE.

This is an electrician's reference book. Moreover, there are fines for violating the Electrical Installation Rules. However, in practice, all these strictures apply only to institutions and organizations. In private households, responsibility ends with the wire coming out of the meter (electricity meter). The rest is up to the homeowner. To prevent an incorrect connection from leading to a fire or electric shock, you must follow simple rules:

• The connection of wires in the junction box is made during a complete power outage. Even if the electrician is wearing dielectric gloves and is familiar with safety rules, accidental contact of the phase wire with structural elements of the building or grounding is possible.
• The type of connection must be the same for each line within the same box. This will protect your line from loosening under load.
• Physical contact of conductors made of different materials (copper with aluminum) is not allowed. When electric current flows, active electrocorrosion occurs. Metals are coated with an oxide film, which impairs contact. The result is sparking, overheating, and complete burnout of the contact connection. If such a need arises, it is necessary to tin the wires using solder. After twisting, the connection must be soldered for at least 50% of the length. The rest of the strand will not corrode because no current flows through it under load.
• It is necessary to exclude the possibility of exposed conductors leaving the box. Even if the cable is completely laid in the wall.
• When connecting without contact devices, that is, using soldering, twisting or welding, an insulating cap must be placed on the exposed conductor. The insulator must be firmly fixed; non-combustible materials are used in its manufacture.
• The ends of the wires inside the box must have at least a 200% margin along the length of the connecting ends. In the event of a break or burnout, it will be possible to re-install without laying a new wire.

In addition, inexperienced electricians often make mistakes and break off wires when stripping the insulation. If the wire is inserted into the box under tension, reconnection will be impossible.

Methods for connecting conductors in a box

There is no single possible method. When choosing a way to connect wires in a junction box, an electrician weighs all factors: from the cost of materials to the expected load.

• Terminals. There is an opinion that this method is the most reliable, but this is a false statement. Most often, terminals are used on boxes with ready-made contact pads.

This connection of wires in the box allows you to disconnect one of the lines at any time (for example, for repairs) without causing damage to the entire power system. There are two ways to connect, directly to the block (by making a ring from a wire core), or using a terminal. With the ring everything is simple, you just need to ensure that the wire is laid in such a way that when tightening the threaded connection, the contact does not loosen.

But with terminals everything is more complicated. It is irrational to crimp a single-core wire: you can mechanically damage the conductor, and the core will break off at any moment. And when laid in a box, a single-core cable with terminals takes up a lot of space, and it is difficult to separate different phases at a sufficient distance.

An excellent result is obtained when crimping a multi-core soft cable; the contact terminal fits comfortably. But stationary installation of multi-core cable is nonsense.

Bottom line: Terminal blocks in the distribution box are convenient, but it is better to make the connection directly to the conductor under the screw, without using crimp terminals.

There are modern boxes with quick-installation contact blocks. This solution is really convenient, but is designed for light load.

Thus, the use of contact blocks is justified only if it is necessary to periodically disconnect one of the lines. And even then, sooner or later the conductor will break off.

• For standard wiring in an apartment (or household), the classics are still more suitable:

Welding wires in a junction box has been used since time immemorial. Anyone who repaired their Khrushchev or Brezhnev cars probably noticed a drop of solidified melt at the end of the aluminum strands in the boxes.

Today, the use of aluminum wiring is prohibited by the PUE, and the welding connection method is still popular. The point is this: after carefully twisting the stripped wires, the contact of the welding machine is briefly applied to the end point.

Usually this is a compact device of low power. It is used by almost all professional electricians. Works on the principle of a spot welding spotter. It will not be possible to light an arc, but the metal at the point of application melts properly. The figure shows the simplest circuit that can be assembled at home.

The connection quality is more than sufficient. In addition to the total twist length (40–50 mm), the ball at the end forms a point with minimal resistance. An additional plus is that this twist will not unwind even when moving the wires inside the box.

If a welding machine is not available, we limit ourselves to ordinary twisting. Of course, we make the connection not with our fingers, but with the help of pliers. All ends of the conductor must be stripped (but not reduced in cross-section), the length of the bare part before twisting begins is at least 70 mm.

Twisting is done after the wires are finally secured in the box. If the cable moves, the connection may become weak. The result is sparking, overheating, and contact breakage. It will be good if there is no fire.

• As an option, after twisting, the wires are soldered in the junction box.

Important! There is a widespread opinion among amateurs: under load, the twist will heat up and the solder will melt. Firstly: a load capable of heating a conductor to the melting temperature of solder is unrealistic at home. Of course, provided that the circuit breakers are in working order. Secondly: heating during twisting occurs due to loose contact, and this can be solved by soldering.

The reliability is not much worse than with welding. In this case, there is no need to purchase (do it yourself) a welding machine, a fairly powerful soldering iron, or even a hair dryer.

Tip: Use the most powerful soldering tool possible. It is better to expose the contacts to high temperatures for a short time than to heat the contacts slowly and for a long time with a weak heater.

During heating, monitor the condition of the insulation. If it starts to melt, take a break until it cools completely. Immediately after soldering, do not move the wire; allow both the solder and the insulation to cool.

Use refractory solders; these alloys have higher strength characteristics.

• Crimping. From the point of view of electrical conductivity, the quality of contact is no better than that of conventional twisting. But the strength of the connection increases significantly. If it is not possible to weld or solder the twist, crimp it using a special sleeve.

You can get by with pliers, but a special tool is still more reliable. There are bushings for parallel splicing of wires, and there are for fixing twists. There is no fundamental difference. If there are two or three conductors, parallel crimping is suitable. For larger quantities - crimping after twisting.

In fact, the methods discussed above are a modernization of the good old twisting. You should not be skeptical about the issue. Due to poor contact in the junction box, many fires occurred and damage to household appliances was caused. Therefore, when repairing electrical wiring in your home, use technical means to improve contact in the twist to the maximum.

Modern methods of connecting wiring in a box

The so-called quick fix pads. These products are widely offered in online stores and building materials markets.

Indeed, such devices make installation quick and convenient. The appearance of the connection is also pleasant. Therefore, such “electric clips” are loved by electricians who perform custom work.

However, this method has serious drawbacks. Let's make a reservation right away: the manufacturer does not promise high connection power: the characteristics are on the case. For an LED lamp, connecting a computer or TV - just right. But a refrigerator, electric stove, boiler cannot be connected through such a distribution box.

The contact area in such “quick releases” is small; the pad is connected to the conductor tangentially. With a light load, the current does not heat the surface too much. And when a serious consumer is connected, sparking, heating, and burning out of the connection will begin.

Conclusion

With all the variety of ways to connect wires in a box, traditional twisting remains the most reliable. Welding or soldering significantly improves contact.

No serious equipment is required; all work can be completed with basic electrical engineering skills.

Source: https://ProFazu.ru/provodka/montazh/soedinenie-provodov-v-raspredelitelnoj-korobke.html

Types of connection of electrical wires in a junction box

In a field such as electricity, all work must be carried out strictly, accurately and without a single mistake. Some people want to figure out such work on their own, not trusting third parties to carry out a responsible mission. Today we will talk about how to properly connect wires in a junction box. The work must be done efficiently, because not only the performance of electrical appliances in the house, but also the fire safety of the premises depends on it.

About the distribution box

In an apartment or house, wires from the electrical panel are routed to different rooms. There are usually several connection points: switch, sockets, and so on. In order for all the wires to be collected in one place, distribution boxes were created. They carry wiring from sockets, switches and are connected in a hollow housing.

So that during repairs you do not have to look for where the wires are hidden in the walls, electrical wiring is laid on the basis of special rules prescribed in the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules).

The main recommendation is that all connections are made in the junction box.

Distribution boxes are classified according to the type of fastening. So, there are boxes for external installation and internal installation. For the second option, you need to prepare a hole in the wall into which the box will be inserted. As a result, the box lid is located flush with the wall. Often the cover is hidden with wallpaper or plastic during repairs. As a last resort, an outer box is used, which is attached directly to the wall.

There are round or rectangular junction boxes. In any case, there will be at least 4 exits. Each outlet has a fitting or thread to which a corrugated tube is attached. This is done to quickly replace the wire. The old wire is pulled out and new wiring is laid. It is not recommended to lay the cable in a groove on the wall. If the electrical wiring burns out, you will have to dig into the wall and disturb the finish in order to carry out repair work.

Connecting the wires in the box

There are several ways in which conductor connections can be made in junction boxes. Note that there are simple and complex methods, however, if executed correctly, all options will ensure the reliability of the electrical wiring.

Method number 1. Twisting method

It is believed that the twisting method is used by amateurs. At the same time, this is one of the most reliable and proven options. PUE do not recommend using twisting, since the contact between the wires is unreliable. As a result, the conductors may overheat, putting the room at risk of fire. However, twisting can be used as a temporary measure, for example, when testing an assembled circuit.

Source: https://www.bazaznaniyst.ru/sem-sposobov-soedineniya-provodov/

Connecting electrical wires - reliable methods

First, let's define what a distribution box is? This is a hollow device made of polymer, round, rectangular and square in shape with a lid and special cable entries. Used to connect conductors together.

Today, a variety of conductor connections are made. This diversity depends on various factors:

• wire section;
• core material (CU, AL);
• number of conductors;
• operating conditions (temperature, climate).

Knowing all these factors, connections are selected in such a way as to comply with certain electrical and fire safety requirements. In addition, you need to consider in which places such boxes with conductor connections will be used:

• dry rooms;
• wet areas;
• especially raw.

Connecting electrical wires in a junction box

To determine which connection method to choose under certain conditions, you need to refer to the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules). According to paragraph 2.1.21, from PUE -7 of the main document on electrical installation, all end connections of wires and cables must be carried out by means of:

• crimping with sleeves;
• clamps (using a bolt, screw);
• welding;
• adhesions.

Connecting wires using crimping sleeves

Connecting wires using a sleeve followed by crimping is the most reliable method and has good electrical contact.

How to connect wires:

• strip the insulation from electrical wires of a certain length;

• take a sleeve of the appropriate length and diameter;

• insert bare wires into the sleeve;
• crimp (press) the sleeve in two or three places with a special power tool (press pliers);

• Apply insulating material (heat-shrink tubing) to the sleeve.

If you don't have heat shrink tubing, you can use insulating tape.

You must take into account that the sleeves are selected in such a way that the diameter of the twisted wires matches the inner diameter of the sleeve. You should not use a sleeve that is not the right size.

How to connect wires using clamps - nut or bolt type

The most common way to connect wires is with a Walnut clamp. This clamp received this name because of its external resemblance to a nut. They are produced in different sizes for connecting both thin and thick wires.

The inside of the “Nut” consists of two main and one intermediate metal plates. There are 4 screws along the edges of the plates. The plates themselves are placed in an insulated carbolite housing, consisting of two parts.

The design feature of Oreshok is that aluminum and copper wires can be connected into one circuit using an intermediate plate.

A bolted connection is also used to connect wires. For a certain cross-section of wires, the size of the bolt is selected. For example, for a wire cross-section of 1.5 - 4 mm², a bolt with a diameter of 6 mm is suitable, for a cross-section of 6 - 10 mm², a bolt diameter of 8 mm, 16 - 35 mm², a diameter of 10 mm.

To connect aluminum to copper using a bolt, a washer is also used - a gasket.

After carefully compressing the wires using a nut, this connection is isolated.

Advantages:

• low cost;
• good insulation for "Nut"
• It is possible to connect aluminum conductors with copper conductors.

Flaws:

• loosening of the threaded connection in the “Oreshok”;
• plenty of insulation for bolted connections;
• The connection dimensions are suitable for large junction boxes.

Connecting wires using welding

One of the best ways to connect wires in a box is welding. How is this all done?

To begin with, the insulation is removed from the ends of the wires. Then the wires are twisted together. The ends are ready for welding.

Welding of wires is carried out with a special welding machine with a voltage of 12 - 36 V. The welding current is regulated depending on the cross-section and number of wires, from 70 to 120 A and the power of the device is sufficiently 500 - 600 W. The work can also be carried out using an inverter welding machine.

For welding I use special graphite electrodes for aluminum and graphite-copper electrodes for copper. The work is carried out in special glasses to protect the eyes from the electric arc.

One cable of the welding machine with a clamp or pliers is connected to the twist, and the second to the electrode holder (holders). The electrode is brought to the tip of the twist and when touched, contact occurs and an arc appears, with the help of which copper or aluminum wires are melted so that a droplet appears. This is enough to make the most reliable contact.

The only drawback of this connection is that when disconnecting the wires, if necessary, you will have to bite off the tip of the twist (welding site).

Soldering wires with solder

An equally wonderful option for connecting wires and ensuring good contact is using ordinary soldering. To use this method, you will need a little soldering skill using an electric soldering iron.

It is best to take a soldering iron with a power of 80 W or 100 W - this is what you need. With this soldering iron you can quickly heat the place (twist) where you will apply the molten solder.

For soldering, POS-30, POS-40 solder is best suited. For such solder you will need rosin or SKF flux (alcohol-rosin flux), which is applied to the soldering area before heating.

In addition to the material listed above, specialists use a so-called solder tube for soldering, which contains rosin inside. This tube is sold in almost every electrical goods store.

It is highly recommended not to use soldering acid. After soldering, its trace remains on the twist and over time the acid will only corrode the twist, which will lead to dire consequences.

And so, to solder wires you will need inexpensive material and an electric soldering iron. This connection by soldering is a more affordable and simpler method.

Connecting wires with terminals

One way or another, connecting wires using twists will eventually disappear into summer. And their place will be taken by those materials and devices that will meet the requirements of modernity and a more professional approach.

Today, terminals are increasingly being used to connect wires. One of the nice features of the terminals is the quick connection of wires of different metals, which avoids direct contact between metals.

Existing terminal requirements:

• information about permissible voltage;
• information about the cross-section of the core;
• increased heat resistance;
• reliable fixation of the wire core;
• corrosion resistance.

The terminals are: knife, spring and screw.

Knife terminals are mainly used for grounding or grounding. They are convenient because you don’t need a power tool, you can quickly connect and disconnect the contact, which saves time.

Spring terminals have become very popular. Such terminals include products from WAGO. Using WAGO terminals you will receive: simple and quick installation, reliable connection of conductors.

Screw terminals (terminal blocks) are housing cells, each of which contains a metal tube with screws.

Installation work with this type of terminal is not difficult; you just need a screwdriver to tighten or unscrew the screw that presses the exposed wire core inside the tube.

Connecting electrical wires outdoors

What to do if there is such a need to connect wires on the street, in the open air?

Street connections are made in different ways: using a “nut”, bolted connection, twisting. For some time, such connections perform well, but then oxidation of the wire cores, weakening of the bolted connection, and rust occur. The problem begins.

You need to understand that such a connection will be negatively affected by precipitation, summer heat, and frost. To minimize this impact and make a good connection, you first need to prepare a set of materials:

• IP65 junction box;
• sleeves for crimping;
• conductive paste;
• Heat-shrinkable adhesive tube.

Lead the cable or wire into the junction box. Place the sleeves on the bare wires using conductive paste and crimp them.

If you have one aluminum wire and the other copper, then use copper-aluminum sleeves.

Next, take adhesive heat-shrinkable tubes prepared in advance and cut to the required size and put them on the sleeves.

By exposing the tubes to high temperature, we casing the sleeves. To apply high temperature to the tubes, use a gas burner, a blowtorch or a professional electric hair dryer.

After the thermopipes have cooled, carefully place the finished connections in the box and close the box tightly with the lid.

This connection will provide you with high reliability for many, many years.

Conclusion

In this article you looked at all types of correct connection of wires that do not exist today. Choose the type of connection that is suitable for your operating conditions.

You may not be able to perform some types of installation work due to lack of skills, tools, or you doubt the correctness of your actions. Then resort to hiring a specialist who, due to his experience, will do everything right.

Don’t forget that proper installation of electrical wiring is the key to your electrical and fire safety.

Source: https://electromc.ru/soedinenie-elektricheskix-provodov/