How to sharpen electric razor blades

How to sharpen an electric razor: complete instructions - Men's portal

An excellent life hack for all representatives of the stronger sex. This thing called marketing forces us to use certain things in a certain way: chew two chew pads instead of one; apply a full toothbrush of toothpaste, not a pea-sized amount; and buying new razors instead of learning how to sharpen them. Yes, yes, this can also be done.

But today OFFICEPLANKTON will look at a great way to save on shaving and avoid buying new shaving machines. By the way, you can try this method with replaceable cartridges for a razor.

Today in our article we will talk about the representatives of the stronger sex, or more precisely, about what they have to do with their appearance on a daily basis in order to look well-groomed and attractive. Did you guess it? You are right, we will talk about the daily, so boring, shaving procedure. Let's look at how to shave, what to shave with, and even reveal little secrets.

How to sharpen a straight razor

The main item of personal hygiene for many centuries in a row for representatives of the stronger sex has been a razor.

The first special device for hair removal was a straight razor. It’s not without reason that it got its name: if handled improperly, you can easily cut the skin or even damage an artery.

It was often shown in crime films as a tool for committing crimes, and English gentlemen carried it with them as a means of protection. This razor needs to be sharpened before each use.

We bring to your attention some tips when purchasing it.

The blade should be wide, with a rounded head; it is difficult for even a beginner to cut himself with such a blade. And the wider the blade, the easier it is to choose a comfortable shaving angle. When choosing a handle, you should pay attention to the quality of the material. Typically, plastic handles are not durable. And don’t forget to check the mobility of the razor in the handle case.

It should expand 270 degrees. Particular attention should be paid to the manufacturer so as not to run into a Chinese counterfeit. The main feature of a high-quality razor is a uniform, deeply engraved mark on the surface of the blade.

And don’t forget to buy a special shaving kit, which consists of a belt for straightening and sharpening the razor, as well as a shaving brush.

Let's start the procedure:

So we come to the issue of sharpening a straight razor (honing). In factories, as a rule, only the blade is shaped, and editing and sharpening is the work of specially trained people. But you can learn on your own.

The simplest method is sharpening on a water stone. You just need to moisten the stone with water and run the blade along the block. You need to drive away from yourself and towards yourself, changing the blade sides, and moving the blade itself perpendicular to the stone.

You can also sharpen your razor with ceramic sharpening stones. In this case, you can sharpen the razor either wet or dry.

The cheapest and fastest way is to sharpen it with sandpaper. Please note that the sandpaper should ONLY be the finest grit.

Once the razor is sharpened, all that remains is to trim it before shaving.

Why and how to edit a straight razor

If the razor is only sharpened, but not straightened, then during shaving due to the beveled blade and jagged edges, you can seriously cut yourself. Now all that remains is to bring it to perfection with the help of a smooth leather belt. A wider belt is best so that the blade fits completely on the belt.

Next, GOI paste is applied to the leather of the belt, and you can straighten it. The movements for editing are exactly the same as for sharpening the blade. In this case, the belt should be well tensioned and without distortions. Once you have adjusted the razor, you can proceed to one of the favorite men's methods of dealing with stubble.

After shaving, wash the razor with hot water and wipe dry. Beginners should remember that a well-sharpened guard will last 2-3 months.

How to sharpen a disposable razor

As a rule, the blades of a disposable razor very quickly become unusable. Even the highest quality and most expensive razors become dull very quickly. It's all about the cartridges and their design.

You have to throw them away and buy new ones. With the advent of disposable and reusable (with replaceable cassettes) machines, people completely forgot about the sharpening method. Advertising and marketing showed us a new way to solve the problem - you can simply throw away the cartridge and buy a new one. After all, throwing it away and buying a new one is much easier, and not at all troublesome.

However, this solution has a significant drawback - good cassettes are expensive, and it is not always possible to buy it, but you always need to look presentable, and the “presentable” prices in supermarkets for new blades perfectly confirm the unprofitability of this solution to the problem.

Therefore, we suggest not throwing away disposable machines, but simply cleaning and sharpening them)

We sharpen a disposable machine on your jeans.

Sharpening a disposable machine on jeans.

We bring to your attention a trick that will make your razor blade 10 times sharper in just a few minutes.
The method is simple and cheap - we will sharpen it on ordinary jeans. The essence of the method is that during use, small deformations appear on the blades that cling to the skin and bristles. So we will get rid of them.

So let's get started:

1 The blade must be dry.

2 Turn the jeans inside out and lay them out on a flat surface. Place some flat object under them, the width of which should be less than the length of the cutting part in the cassette, since there are protrusions along the edges of the cassette that will not allow you to sharpen the blade.

3 Place the cassette blade on a flat object and move it across the fabric AWAY from yourself with slight pressure. AGAIN - the directions of movements should be the opposite of the movements with which you shave. So we do it 50 times in one direction. Then we turn the razor around and similarly grind the cassette in the other direction. That's it, quick, easy and quite effective.

This way you will not only save money, but also have a clean shave.

By sharpening cassettes in this way, you can significantly extend their service life. In addition, do not forget to use a needle or toothpick to clean the space between the blades, freeing it from accumulated bristles.

If you feel sorry for your favorite jeans and are afraid to take a risk, then you can use a strip of leather of the required width. Please note the method of sharpening and stropping with a leather straight razor belt.

Only sharpen the razor on the back, unpainted side of the skin. Sharpening occurs somewhat faster than on fabric. 20-30 passes in one direction will be enough.

There is no need to sharpen in the opposite direction, as with jeans.

Just in case: some tips on how to shave properly

1 Shaving should not be done hastily. The procedure should take an average of 3-4 minutes. This is necessary so that the foam has time to soften the skin and hairs. And enough time to shave each area of ​​skin carefully step by step.

2 Before you begin, you need to wet your face with warm water. You can also use foam. This will avoid micro-cuts and the blade will glide easily.

3 After washing, pat your face lightly with a towel or do not wipe it at all; it should be damp - not dry. Dry skin is susceptible to foam, and basic irritation can occur.

4 You need to shave slowly, carefully and carefully, with a minimum degree of pressure.

5 Shaving occurs strictly along, and not against, the hair growth.

6 After the procedure, do not forget to wash your face with cold water and apply aftershave balm to your face. They are usually not too expensive and are great for soothing the skin. Well, as a bonus, a pleasant smell is guaranteed.


3 best methods for sharpening electric razor knives

The problem of skin irritation after using an electric razor is familiar to many men. It usually occurs after a certain time of using an electrical appliance and is accompanied by discomfort during the shaving process.

The reason for this phenomenon is not the quality of the razor or the characteristics of the skin. It’s just that the knives of the device tend to lose their original sharpness over time, even if the manufacturer positions them as self-sharpening.

But you shouldn’t rush to buy new ones or contact sharpening specialists. You can do everything yourself.

Sandpaper method

One of the most affordable ways to solve the problem involves using regular sandpaper. To do this you will need:

  • a sheet of sandpaper 1200 microns;
  • a sheet of sandpaper 2500 microns.

In both cases, a square fragment measuring 100 by 100 mm is suitable. It is advisable that the base of the sheet is not soft.

The algorithm of actions is simple. To begin with, you need to remove the shaving head housing with the safety blades from the device and remove the rotating knives. After this, they should be laid out on a piece of sandpaper with a coarser grain.

Next, having aligned the knives with the shafts of the electric razor, you need to turn on the device for about 20 seconds. This will ensure a rough sharpening of the blades. In this case, there is no need to press the razor to make the knives fit more tightly to the sandpaper.

The force created by the weight of the device itself will be sufficient.

After this, you can proceed to the fine sharpening procedure by performing similar steps for 15 seconds using 1200 micron sandpaper. At the end of the procedure, the knives must be cleaned with a soft cloth and the razor must be reassembled.

 Method using GOI paste

An equally accessible and effective way to restore the sharpness of blades is to use GOI paste. This abrasive material is used for grinding and polishing a wide range of materials, including metal. The algorithm of actions can be divided into 3 stages:

  1. Preparatory. At this stage, a sharpening solution is prepared based on GOI paste. To do this, you need to stir a small amount of paste in butter. For better mixing, you can add a few drops of solvent. The result should be a mixture that resembles jelly in consistency. The amount of solution should cover the bottom of the container used for mixing by several millimeters.
  2. Direct sharpening. Unlike the first method, there is no need to disassemble the electric razor and take out the knives. Simply immerse the electrical appliance in the prepared mixture and turn it on for 2-3 minutes.
  3. Final. At this stage, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the blades from any remaining solution using a napkin.

Method using glass and a screwdriver

An alternative to the first two methods is sharpening knives on glass. In principle, the method is identical to the version with sandpaper. But given the hardness of the glass, for high-quality sharpening, the knives are rotated using a screwdriver. A prerequisite for this is to use the tool in reverse rotation mode and at low speeds. Otherwise, the blades will become even duller.

To reliably transfer rotation from the screwdriver to the knife, it is recommended to use a triangular bit. The time for high-quality sharpening of one element is 4-5 minutes with light pressure.

Thus, using any of the described methods for sharpening electric razor knives, you can save a significant amount of money compared to purchasing new cutting elements or contacting specialized workshops. As a result, the shaving process will be pleasant and economical.


How to sharpen an electric razor – Beauty Magnet

Not every man likes to visit hairdressers. Therefore, it is not surprising that some wives have purchased hair clippers and groom their husbands and sons themselves. Over time, any blade becomes dull. But what about a clipper whose blades have become dull? How to sharpen them? It's worth considering some practical tips together.

Knowing some secrets, you can easily cope with sharpening such a tool yourself. For these purposes, various devices can be used. Today we should take a closer look at the use of some of these tools:

  • professional sharpening kit;
  • kitchen whetstone;
  • lathe;
  • sandpaper;
  • Sander.

Now you need to learn how to use a special device.

Using a professional kit

This set helps to sharpen knives correctly and quickly. At the same time, the master does not require any special knowledge. Just a few secrets of success - and the quality of work will not be inferior to the quality of sharpening from a specialist.

What does such a kit consist of? As a rule, it includes the following components:

  • machine;
  • a case for it;
  • aluminum disk;
  • cleaning composition;
  • lubricant;
  • brush;
  • laser;
  • magnet.

At first glance, such a task may seem difficult. It is necessary to consider the use of such items step by step.

  1. Disassemble the cutting attachment. If you've never done this before, take pictures of each stage of disassembly. This will help you tighten the bolts in the correct sequence when assembling the product. To remove the knives, you will need a regular screwdriver. Place all the small parts that you remove during the process in some kind of box so as not to lose it.
  2. Prepare the aluminum disk for work. First, you need to wipe it to remove dust particles. Then you should apply a special oil to it, which is included in the sharpening kit. Abrasive powder is directly involved in sharpening. It should also be distributed over the surface of the washer.
  3. Attach the knives and laser pointer. During operation, these parts must be securely fastened. The blade is attached using a magnetic clip, and the sharpening device itself is located on the casing. After preparing for the process, the device must be turned on, indicating the appropriate disk rotation speed.
  4. Sharpen your tool. To do this, the knives must be pressed tightly with the cutting part against the rotating aluminum disk. It is important that the blades are directed against the movement of the disc, and not in the same direction. While sharpening, smoothly move the device from the center of the disc to the edges.

    Important! Take your time during this work. It will take at least 1.5–2 minutes to sharpen each knife. If this is your first time doing this, spend more time on it, but do not make sudden movements. Carelessness can lead to damage to the cutting edge.

  5. Demagnetize the knives and prepare them for attaching them to the machine. The special solution that comes with the kit is designed exactly for these purposes. Rinse the blade in this liquid. You can pour a small amount of warm water into a container and add a few drops of cleaning agent. Rinse the blades to remove small fragments of abrasive particles. For better cleaning of knives after sharpening, you can clean them with a brush. After this you can wipe them. It is very important that the moisture is completely removed before you put the knives back into the appliance.
  6. Assemble the machine. The cutting device must be assembled in the same sequence. First, the knives are connected, and then they are placed in their grooves. Once all the bolts are firmly tightened, the tool is ready for further use.

Before starting sharpening, the machine should be carefully disassembled. Having disconnected the knife block, you can freely begin sharpening.

To obtain a high-quality result, it is important to choose the correct sharpening angle of the cutting blade. Try to strictly follow the one intended by the manufacturer. This way, the quality of the cutting tool will not be lost, and sharpening will take less time, as if the original angle had been broken.

How to use a lathe correctly

If you have such equipment at your disposal, sharpening is greatly simplified. You don't need to spend a lot of time and effort on this process.

To sharpen unusual knives from a machine, you will need an aluminum disc and abrasive powder. Some masters do not use powder, but a ready-made paste. Use a special magnet and secure the knives to the work surface. Turn on the machine. Sharpen with extreme caution.

After the procedure, remove any remaining paste, rinse the knives and dry them. Once secured to the machine, the device can be used further.

Using sandpaper

Find out how to wear shoes here.


How to sharpen electric razor blades

With the help of a knife we ​​cook food, cut food and do other housework. Therefore, it is very important that the knife blade always remains sharp.

Theoretically, there is nothing difficult in sharpening knives, but in practice it turns out that not everyone can sharpen a blade well.

To have an idea of ​​what to sharpen knives with and how to do it correctly, we recommend reading our article.

Before you start sharpening a knife, you need to find out what material it is made of. There are several types of knives:

  • Carbon steel knives are the most affordable, made from an alloy of iron and carbon, easy to sharpen and remain sharp for a long time. Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that the knife blade oxidizes from interaction with food or an acidic environment, due to this, rust and stains appear on the knife, and food acquires a metallic taste. Over time, after plaque forms on the blade, oxidation stops.
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  • Low carbon stainless steel knives are made from an alloy of iron, chromium, carbon and in some cases nickel or molybdenum. Stainless steel knives are inferior in hardness to carbon steel, so they quickly become dull and require regular sharpening. The advantages include corrosion resistance.
  • Knives made of high-carbon stainless steel are a higher class of knives, with a higher carbon content and additions of cobalt or vanadium. Due to the higher quality alloy, this type of knives does not require frequent sharpening and is not subject to corrosion.
  • Damascus steel knives are mainly made as edged weapons, but there are also kitchen options. A Damascus steel knife is a multi-layer blade made from different high-quality alloys. The disadvantages include the high cost of knives.
  • Ceramic knives have gained popularity because of their sharpness and ability not to become dull for a long time. But in addition to their advantages, ceramic knives have a significant disadvantage, which is their fragility when dropped from a height and poor resistance to fracture.
  • Touchstone (sharpening stone)

    Sharpening stones are available with different numbers of abrasive grains per square millimeter. Therefore, for rough sharpening and finishing grinding, you need to use bars with a minimum and maximum abrasive content.

    In foreign-made whetstones, information about the number of abrasive grains is on their labeling.

    You have to choose domestically produced sharpening stones “by eye” or ask the seller which whetstone to use for initial sharpening and which for final sharpening.

    Mechanical sharpeners are mainly used for sharpening kitchen knives. Although the sharpening process is quick, the quality leaves much to be desired. For this reason, for hunting and sporting knives, it is recommended to use other sharpening methods.

    Modern models of electric sharpeners allow you to achieve high quality sharpening due to the built-in function of automatically determining the angle of the blade.

    The electric sharpener is perfect for both household use and for sharpening knives in catering establishments.

    The range of electric sharpeners is presented in a wide range, so the price may vary, but if you want your knives to always remain sharp, then buy more “advanced” and expensive models.

    Musat - designed to maintain the sharpness of the knife edge. In shape, the musat resembles a round file with a handle. Musats are included in knife sets, and many owners often confuse them with a tool for fully sharpening a blade. Please note that with the help of musat you can maintain the sharpness of a sharpened knife, but if the knife has become completely dull, you will not be able to sharpen it with musat.

    This sharpener is used for sharpening small and medium-sized knives. The design of the sharpener allows you to sharpen the blade at the angle you choose.

    The Lansky sharpener consists of a rod with a removable touchstone and two corners connected to each other. The corners simultaneously serve as a vice for the knife and a scale for selecting the sharpening angle.

    The sharpener kit also includes sharpening stones of different grits with ANSI markings.

    Sharpening machines are used mainly in production for high-precision sharpening of rotating shaft blades. In addition to high-precision machines, there are electrically driven abrasive wheels and rotating discs for grinding.

    Sharpening knives on such machines should only be done by an experienced craftsman, because due to the speed of rotation of the circle or disk and the high heating temperature, with any unsuccessful movement, the knife blade will become unusable.

    Sharpening a knife with a whetstone

    Sharpening a blade made with a sharpening stone is considered to be of the highest quality, provided, of course, that it was carried out by an experienced craftsman. To sharpen a knife on a whetstone, do the following:

    1. Place a low abrasive grit sandstone on a stationary surface. If the block is small, it can be clamped in a vice.
  • Holding the knife at an angle of 20-25 degrees relative to the surface of the block, begin moving the knife along the whetstone with the cutting edge forward.
  • Move the blade along the block so that during movement it touches the surface of the whetstone along its entire length.
  • As you move, try to maintain the same blade angle.
  • After making 2-3 movements, turn the knife over and repeat the sharpening process on the other side of the blade.
  • Thus, alternating sides, sharpen the knife until an edge (burr) appears along the edge of the blade.
  • Swap the coarse whetstone for a grinding stone.
  • Sand the knife blade until the edge disappears.
  • Test the sharpness of the knife by cutting a hemp rope folded several times, or try cutting a sheet of paper.
  • How to sharpen a knife using a sharpening stone, see also in the video:

    Hunting knives are made of hard steel, so their initial sharpening requires sharpening stones with a low content of abrasive grains.

    1. Clamp the knife in a sharpener vice.
    2. Place a sharpening stone with a low content of abrasive grains on the rod.
    3. Select the angle of the block (for hunting knives it is usually from 20 to 30 degrees).
    4. Insert the rod into the desired hole.
    5. Lubricate the whetstone with the special oil included in the sharpener kit.
    6. Start moving the block along the knife blade, from the base to the tip.
    7. Flip the sharpener over and repeat the process on the other side of the knife.
    8. Once the edge is formed, change the stone and do the final sanding.
    9. Since hunting knives are mostly made with a double-sided blade, after finishing sharpening on one side, change the position of the knife in the vice and begin the sharpening process on the other side.
    10. Once you've finished sharpening, polish the knife blade with felt.

    How to sharpen knives in a Lansky sharpener, watch the video:

    Sharpening of scissors must be done on a special sharpening machine. Sharpening blades using improvised materials (sandpaper, the edge of a glass, etc.) can temporarily improve the sharpness of scissors, but not for long. If you do not have the opportunity to have your scissors sharpened by a professional, you can try to sharpen them yourself on an abrasive stone. When sharpening you need to follow a few simple rules:

    • The sharpening stone should be fine-grained.
    • The blade is sharpened over the entire surface of the edge at the same time.
    • The angle of the blade should match the factory edge.
    • The movement of the blade along the stone should be from the screw to the tip.
    • Scissors need to be sharpened disassembled.

    When sharpening scissors, do not rush; patience will be your ally in this matter.

    You can also watch the video on how to quickly sharpen scissors:

    Sharpening the blade of a plane and a chisel are practically no different from each other. Therefore, the sharpening process described below applies to both tools:

    1. Place the chisel on the whetstone at an angle of 30-40 degrees.
    2. Holding the chisel with your hand, use the fingers of your free hand to press the bevel onto the whetstone.
    3. Start running the chisel over the whetstone until a burr forms on the smooth side of the chisel.
    4. Change the whetstone to a fine-grained one and do the final grinding of the chisel.
    5. Check the sharpness of the chisel blade by removing shavings from the corner of the block.

    In addition to manual sharpening, the chisel can be sharpened on a machine with a rotating abrasive disk:

    1. Turn on the machine and let the disc reach full speed.
    2. Holding the chisel with both hands, place its bevel against the sharpening wheel.
    3. Be sure to maintain the angle of the chisel, otherwise you will damage the blade of the tool.
    4. Do not press the chisel with great force and do not hold it on the blade for too long, this will lead to overheating of the metal and destruction of the blade.
    5. While sharpening, wet the blade with water.
    6. The final grinding of the chisel blade is best done by hand, using a fine-grained stone or sandpaper.

    Do not forget that when sharpening products on a machine, a lot of sparks and small particles are generated that can get into your eyes, so be sure to wear safety glasses. To avoid damaging your hands on the rotating disk, wear gloves.

    You can also learn how to sharpen tools from the video:

    Tips for quickly sharpening a blade using improvised tools

    You can quickly sharpen a knife on a hike or on a picnic using an ordinary cobblestone. Use any stone lying on the ground instead of a whetstone and run the knife blade along its surface. You won't achieve razor sharpness, but you will return the knife to working condition.

    It is quite possible to sharpen two knives at once, without sharpening stones or tools. To do this, you need to take a knife in both hands and begin to sharpen the blade of one knife on the blade of the other. After 5-10 minutes of this work, the knives will become sharper than before.

    The knife blade can be slightly sharpened on the rough edge of glass or ceramic objects. For example, on the bottom of a glass or the edge of a tile. The main thing is that the surface is rough.

    A leather belt is more suitable for finishing and giving the knife blade a razor sharpness than for rough sharpening. But if there is nothing at hand except a belt, then you can try to sharpen the knife on it. To do this, you need to tighten the belt and start moving the blade along it; you may not achieve strong sharpness, but you will polish the knife to a shine.

    By learning to sharpen knives and tools yourself, you will acquire a skill that will be useful to you throughout your life!

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    How to sharpen Philips electric razor blades


    An electric razor is no longer a new product, and those males who prefer this device to conventional razors are aware of its advantages. Electric shavers require neither water nor special shaving products, making them more mobile, which is especially valuable when traveling. When shaving with an electric razor, the skin is less irritated and the possibility of cuts is eliminated. Those devices that have a self-cleaning function are considered almost ideal.

    Reference. This sharpening method is suitable for those razors that cannot be sharpened using GOI paste, for example, for the Era - 100 electric razor.

    Method using GOI paste

    GOI paste appeared almost a hundred years ago, and all this time it has been successfully used for polishing metals, including steel, ceramics, stone and some other surfaces. The popularity of this polishing product is explained not only by the excellent results after use, but also by its affordable cost. GOI paste is available in 4 types:

    GOI paste cannot be applied directly to a metal surface; you can use a soft cloth for this or pre-dilute the paste with any solvent.

    1. Using any container, the paste is diluted with vegetable oil.
    2. Add available solvent.
    3. The knife block of the electrical appliance is immersed in the solution.
    4. Turn on the electric razor for the period that it usually takes to shave.
    5. After all manipulations, wipe the knives.

    After this treatment, the razor blades will be like new.

    Sharpening method using glass and a screwdriver

    Important! To sharpen blades in this way, it is necessary to use reverse - clockwise movement will only dull the knives even more.

    The blade, previously removed from the razor, must be placed on the glass and sharpened using a triangular nozzle and reverse reverse. The screwdriver should operate at low speeds, the whole process will not take more than 5 minutes.

    Using one of the above methods, if you have certain skills and patience, you can sharpen the razor blades yourself, which will extend their service life for a long time. The results of sharpening carried out at home, subject to all rules and recommendations, may not be inferior to the results after professional processing. Practice shows that when sharpening blades using GOI paste, they will work flawlessly for at least a year.


    How to sharpen electric razor knives at home

    An electric razor has long been a device used by men who value their time and mobility. When traveling or on a business trip, this device has long been helping representatives of the stronger sex look neat and tidy. An easy-to-use electric razor does not irritate the skin and does not leave cuts; shaving does not require water or expensive cosmetics.

    How to sharpen your favorite razor?

    But with frequent use of an electric razor, even with self-sharpening blades, over time, the knives may require extraordinary sharpening. Any man can cope with this problem on his own, without resorting to the services of professional sharpeners. The methods to help solve the problem are quite simple. Using the recommendations, you can significantly increase the service life of the blades and avoid purchasing a new electrical appliance.

    razor blades

    How to sharpen metal knives for a dull electric razor yourself?

    Using methods for sharpening razor knives and using your own strength, you can be sure that the actions were carried out correctly and the device will last for many years. Among the common recommendations, there are ways to sharpen blades with tools available in every man’s arsenal.


    Procedure for using fine-grit sandpaper for sanding metals from 1200 to 2500 microns:

    • Remove the blades from the device body.
    • Place the knives down on the sanding paper.
    • Insert the cardan or shaft. Pressing the blades against the surface of the paper, turn on the device for 10-15 seconds.
    • Using sandpaper with a finer grit of 2500 microns, repeat the action.
    • Use a fluffy brush to remove metal dust from the knives and collect the razor.

    Attention! For optimal results, it is recommended to use sandpaper on a dry surface, without a soft base.

    The simplest and most effective way to sharpen razor blades is to use GOI paste, created to restore damaged surfaces of various textures, from steel to plastic. The chemical product, which contains fine-grained chromium oxide powder, is characterized as a productive grinding and polishing composition. It is not recommended to use pure paste for sharpening razor knives.

    Paste GOI

    • Place a small amount of paste in a shallow, flat-bottomed bowl.
    • To soften, add oil (technical or vegetable).
    • Pour in a little solvent (gasoline, kerosene, alcohol) and stir with a wooden spatula. The composition should be jelly-like and cover the surface of the dish by several millimeters.
    • Lower the razor into the paste so that the blades are completely immersed in the paste.
    • Turn on the device and let it work for 1-2 minutes.
    • Carefully remove the compound from the knives with a soft flannel cloth.

    Important! For the procedure, it is better to use paste No. 3, intended for sharpening and polishing metal.

    How to sharpen an electric razor with your own hands using glass?

    The most popular way to sharpen razor blades is to use an electric drill or a screwdriver with a reverse motor. For this sharpening method you will need a tool and glass measuring 10*10 cm:

    Triangular bat

    • Remove the knives from the device.
    • Place on glass so that the knives rest against the surface.
    • Install a triangular bit into the drill.
    • Start the electric drill using reverse motion at low engine speeds. When the drill is operated clockwise, razor knives may become unusable.
    • Sharpening should take no more than five minutes.
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    Important! To protect your eyes, it is advisable to use a protective mask or goggles.

    By resorting to self-sharpening according to these recommendations, you can periodically, as required, extend the service life of the device for a long time.


    Electric razor: which one to choose, how to use, what are the advantages over the machine, types, reviews

    Nature has decreed that in a man’s life, removing facial hair is a regular and sometimes daily process that requires an investment of time and effort. Dangerous blades and shaving machines have been replaced by a compact device that makes life easier for the stronger half of humanity. This is an electric razor that helps remove unwanted hair in almost any conditions, for example, while driving in a car.

    You don’t even need an outlet, because most modern models run on batteries. Manufacturers of electric shavers guarantee a clean shave and safety to use. Such devices are indispensable on long trips - in the absence of a mirror, water and other necessary things. Statistics say that a third of men on the planet use electric razors.

    Therefore, the problem of choosing the optimal model, taking into account individual characteristics, is so relevant.

    How does an electric razor work?

    An electric razor is an electromechanical device powered by a household network or batteries..

    The engine of the device drives a knife unit equipped with special blades, which, depending on the type of razor, rotate in a circle or perform oscillatory movements and cut hairs from the skin. All elements are hidden in an ergonomic case that is comfortable to hold in your hand.

    Using an electric razor is quite easy, but it will take some time to acquire the skill to properly guide the device over the skin to get the perfect result.

    The electric razor was invented and patented by the American military man Jacob Schick back in 1923. The need to get rid of stubble in harsh army conditions led him to the idea of ​​​​creating a device with movable knives for dry shaving.

    The most difficult thing was to design a compact electric motor, since at that time the smallest electric motors were the size of a modern TV. However, the inventor coped with this difficult task and in 1925, having mortgaged his house, he opened the world's first production of electric razors.

    His products began to be actively sold within two years.

    Both the conventional razor and the electric razor have their followers who discuss the advantages and disadvantages of these devices and advise choosing one of them.

    An electric razor is much safer to use than a machine, but the latter shave cleaner

    Types of electric shavers

    All models of electric razors available for sale are divided according to the principle of operation into two types - foil and rotary . The question of choosing between them often worries buyers. Men on forums discuss which system works better, faster and is worth the money.


    In a mesh-type device, movable blades in the form of plates are located behind a fine-mesh metal mesh, which reliably protects the skin from cuts and damage. The blades make vibrating movements in a given rhythm and cut off hairs that fall into the mesh holes. Some models have several such grids, which helps to quickly achieve an ideal result.

    Some models may have five foils at once for the closest shave

    The foil electric razor consists of the following parts:

    • plastic housings;
    • lids with metal mesh;
    • a movable blade shaped like a plate;
    • electric motor;
    • charger (wires for connecting to the network or battery).

    Foil razors often come with useful attachments that allow you to give the desired shape to your scalp hair, beard and mustache. For men with a beard, this type of razor is more suitable. The possibility of wet shaving with special products helps to effectively care for the skin of the cheeks and chin. In general, foil electric shavers are more often recommended for men with sensitive facial skin, and for those who do not shave very often.


    During Soviet times, only rotary electric razors were sold in our country. However, since then technology has come a long way and now these models have been significantly improved and are very popular.

    A rotary razor consists of several disc-shaped blades that are attached to a special head and move in a circular motion. The blades are separated from the skin by a fixed upper part, equipped with holes for hair penetration. The hairs get inside and are cut off at the very root.

    In expensive models, the blades are self-sharpening, which increases the service life of the device. Typically, such a razor has three shaving heads arranged in the shape of a triangle, but now many manufacturers are increasing their number, achieving high-quality shaving.

    A special system of independent fastening of the heads allows them to slightly change their position and perfectly follow the contours of the face (the so-called floating heads).

    Most often, a rotary razor has from 3 to 5 shaving heads

    The rotary razor consists of the following elements:

    • plastic housings;
    • rotary (disc) blades;
    • external mesh discs;
    • electric drive;
    • charger (wires for connecting to the network or battery).

    A trimmer attachment may be included with the rotary device. New models provide the possibility of wet shaving. Rotary models provide a quick and high-quality shave and are recommended for those men who want to be clean shaven every day and spend a minimum of time on it.

    Pros and cons of various types of devices

    The advantages of both types of devices, acquired thanks to modern technologies, include the following:

    • new models of foil and rotary razors have wet and dry shaving functions;
    • The ability to operate the razor on a battery, which is indispensable when traveling, is supported in both types of devices, and there is high-speed charging (in 5–15 minutes);
    • The kit may include useful additional attachments (trimmer and others).

    As for the advantages and disadvantages of the design and principles of operation, rotary razors are ahead of mesh razors in terms of shaving cleanliness, but this does not prevent the latter from remaining popular, and manufacturers from improving both types of devices.

    Both rotary and foil shaver have their pros and cons.

    Which electric razor to choose

    When choosing an electric razor, you need to take into account not only the features of its design, but also many other nuances.

    Skin type and sensitivity

    For dry and sensitive facial skin, wet shaving using special cosmetics - gel or foam - is more suitable. In this case, it is better to choose a razor with the ability to wet hair removal.

    This feature is most often found in mesh-type devices, but many rotary shavers now support it. It is very convenient that such a device can be washed under running water after use.

    Wet shaving will make any skin type more hydrated and clean.

    Previously, the function was only available on foil models, but now more and more rotary shavers also support wet shaving.

    To reduce skin irritation, some devices have a useful cooling function - Cool-Tech, but this increases the cost of the razor. A docking station for cleaning blades is also useful: it makes it possible to disinfect blades and destroy bacteria, thereby reducing the likelihood of skin inflammation at the site of microcuts.

    A mesh electric shaver causes less damage to the skin, so if you have sensitive skin prone to irritation and allergies, it is better to choose modern mesh-type models. It is good if the mesh is made of titanium alloy, since this metal does not cause irritation, unlike nickel. And after shaving, you should definitely use special soothing products.

    Stubble hardness and age

    For hard stubble, which is often found in mature and elderly men, rotary models with several shaving heads are more suitable.

    In addition, it is important that the number of razor motor revolutions per minute is high - a more powerful model (up to 14 thousand revolutions per minute) will cope better with hard stubble. Among the expensive mesh devices, you can also find a powerful razor that can get rid of thick and tough vegetation.

    If the stubble is very rough, then it is first recommended to steam the skin of the face and treat the hairs with special softening agents that are commercially available.

    It should be noted that there is an opinion prevailing on forums that dangerous blades work best with hard bristles. However, modern electric shavers will also help solve this problem. You just need to find the right model.

    In adolescence, the stubble is still soft, the skin is tender, and the first razor should be as safe as possible, that is, not injure the skin. In addition, young men may experience acne and rashes on their faces. It is recommended to give preference to foil electric shavers with additional features that make shaving easier.

    To avoid leaving unshaven areas on your face and to minimize the likelihood of skin cuts, it is advisable to purchase an electric razor with a system for following the contours of the face. If you have soft stubble, all models with floating blades are suitable, that is, the shaving parts should follow the contours of the face as accurately as possible and make it possible to shave all hard-to-reach corners.

    Such devices will not damage the skin and will delicately deal with unwanted vegetation.

    Battery operation

    Men who often have to shave on the road or in business travel hotels choose devices that can be powered by a battery. At the same time, the battery capacity, on which the battery life depends, and the charging speed are important factors influencing the choice of a specific electric razor model. Manufacturers are trying to satisfy consumers in this matter and new models feature increasingly advanced batteries.

    There are currently three types of batteries on the market:

    • nickel-cadmium - the cheapest; Their main drawback is the need to completely discharge the device before charging, but they take several hours to charge. Most often, such a razor is connected to the mains for the whole night, but you cannot leave it constantly on the charger - this will lead to rapid wear of the battery;
    • nickel-metal hydride - also have a low cost, but they charge in less than an hour, and the time of use of the charged device will be from 40 to 80 minutes. Unlike nickel-cadmium ones, they do not deteriorate from constant connection to a charger and have a quick charging function (3-8 minutes), which is enough for one shaving session;
    • Lithium-ion batteries are the most advanced and expensive. They are fully charged in an hour, and work offline for about 90 minutes. The line of these devices includes high-capacity batteries, which make it possible to use a once-charged razor for a month.

    A device recharged from a regular power cord will be more convenient to use on trips than one charged on a special induction stand, because it will add additional volume and weight to a travel suitcase. A convenient option on some models is a removable additional battery, which is useful in situations where there is no access to an electrical outlet. Charge level indication is a modern feature that makes it possible to recharge the battery in time.

    The charger in the form of a power cord will save space in your travel bag or suitcase

    Which brand to prefer

    Most buyers are interested in reviews and ratings before purchasing a product. An electric razor is not a cheap purchase, so you should carefully study the models available for sale in an affordable price category.

    But it must be remembered that all people are individual and their preferences often depend on personal characteristics, and not on the razor. Therefore, reviews for the same model may be contradictory.

    However, many consumers note that cheap, little-known brands often have a shorter service life, and the shaving quality leaves much to be desired.


    How to sharpen electric razor blades at home

    An electric razor is no longer a new product, and those males who prefer this device to conventional razors know its advantages. Electric shavers require neither water nor special shaving products, making them more mobile, which is especially valuable when traveling. When shaving with an electric razor, the skin is less irritated and the possibility of cuts is eliminated. Those devices that have a self-cleaning function are considered almost ideal.

    Razor blades may require sharpening during use. Nowadays devices with self-sharpening blades are produced, but even they, although later, fail. To solve this problem, it is not necessary to contact a specialist or purchase new blades. You can sharpen your razor blades yourself. By choosing one of the sharpening methods and strictly following the instructions, you can extend the life of the blades by at least another year, thereby saving on the purchase of new ones.

    Ways to sharpen a razor at home

    Electric shavers are either rotary or mesh. Regardless of the type of device, stainless steel knives are coated with a layer of titanium or ceramic to avoid allergies. Of course, if you have doubts about the possibility of sharpening knives yourself, it is better to contact a specialist, or you can use one of the “folk” ways to solve the problem.

    Sandpaper method

    To sharpen the blades, you will need sandpaper with a grit of 1200 and 2500. To sharpen the knives, you need to remove them. First, the knives need to be sanded with 1200 grit sandpaper.

    To do this, you need to place them on paper, insert the shaft or cardan of the razor, press and turn on for 10 seconds. Next, the same thing needs to be done using 2500-grit sandpaper. After these manipulations, you need to clean everything and reassemble it in the reverse order.

    For greater efficiency, it is better to take sandpaper without a soft backing.

    Reference. This sharpening method is suitable for those razors that cannot be sharpened using GOI paste, for example, for the Era-100 electric razor.

    Method using GOI paste

    GOI paste appeared almost a hundred years ago, and all this time it has been successfully used for polishing metals, including steel, ceramics, stone and some other surfaces. The popularity of this polishing product is explained not only by the excellent results after use, but also by its affordable cost. GOI paste is available in 4 types:

    • for rough polishing;
    • to give the surface a matte finish;
    • for finishing and adding gloss.

    GOI paste cannot be applied directly to a metal surface; you can use a soft cloth for this or pre-dilute the paste with any solvent.

    Sharpening stages:

    1. Using any container, the paste is diluted with vegetable oil.
    2. Add available solvent.
    3. The knife block of the electrical appliance is immersed in the solution.
    4. Turn on the electric razor for the period that it usually takes to shave.
    5. After all manipulations, wipe the knives.

    After this treatment, the razor blades will be like new.

    Important! If the blades have recently been changed, then before starting use it is necessary to grind them with GOI paste.

    Sharpening method using glass and a screwdriver

    To sharpen knives in this way, you need ordinary glass and a screwdriver or drill with reverse.

    Important! To sharpen blades in this way, it is necessary to use reverse reverse - clockwise movement will only dull the knives even more.

    The blade, previously removed from the razor, must be placed on the glass and sharpened using a triangular nozzle and reverse reverse. The screwdriver should operate at low speeds, the whole process will not take more than 5 minutes.

    Let's sum it up

    Using one of the above methods, if you have certain skills and patience, you can sharpen the razor blades yourself, which will extend their service life for a long time. The results of sharpening carried out at home, subject to all rules and recommendations, may not be inferior to the results after professional processing. Practice shows that when sharpening blades using GOI paste, they will work flawlessly for at least a year.

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    How to choose the right stone

    The whetstone, which is intended for sharpening a knife, can be of the following varieties:

    • Japanese water stones.
    • Of natural origin.
    • Diamond.
    • Ceramic.
    THIS IS INTERESTING:  How to sharpen a knife to razor sharpness

    When you have more experience in the sharpening process, you can purchase a Japanese water or diamond bar, which are more expensive. For beginners, the most suitable stone is a ceramic one. You can purchase them at any hardware store. They are affordable, long lasting and durable. The disadvantages of such an item is that they wear unevenly.

    You can find a good stone using the following tips:

    • The shape and width of the stone does not play a special role, but the length should be 2 times greater than the knife blade.
    • When purchasing, you must make sure that there are no chips or irregularities.
    • A beginner can purchase a universal stone that will have medium hardness. You can choose several stones of different grain sizes or one double-sided one.
    • The highest quality stones are Soviet-made. If you can get your hands on one, you're lucky.

    Instructions for sharpening a kitchen knife at home

    Sharpening a kitchen knife is done with the purpose of removing such an amount of metal from the blade that, in the absence of which, the object will become sharp again. The process usually starts with a large stone and ends with small grains.

    When sharpening, it is necessary to take into account the following principles:

    • While the blade is sliding along the beam, it is necessary to choose the optimal angle and maintain it along the entire length of the blade.
    • Do not press too hard while moving.
    • The bars are moistened with water before and after the process.

    Initially, it is recommended to train on a knife that you won’t mind throwing away if it gets damaged. The sharpening instructions consist of seven main points:

    • Apply water to the stone, and then go over it with a sponge and detergent.
    • After this, you need to sit down at the work surface and place a sharpening stone on a wooden object. You can put some material under it. The main thing is that the stone should not slide on the surface.
    • Next, you need to select and fix the angle for sharpening. It is worth remembering the following: the smaller the angle, the sharper the blade will be, and with a larger angle it will remain sharp for a longer period of time.


    How to sharpen a knife to razor sharpness at home - instructions with video

    In principle, this formulation of the question is not entirely correct. If we are talking about the “razor sharpness” of a knife, then we should probably talk about the direct finishing of the blade. after sharpening at home. And this is the second stage of bringing the knife into working condition. Its specifics are worth considering in more detail.

    All knives have differences: in the shape of the blade, in its material (there are products, for example, made of ceramics), grade of steel (the best steel for a knife), sharpening angle, and the like. But there are several general rules, following which you can really make the cutting part unusually sharp.

    This work can only be done manually. Using various technical means in the form of various “sharpeners” and electric sandpaper will not give the desired result. This is more suitable for the initial sharpening of a knife, when you just need a sharp tool and not a razor.

    What you need to polish a knife blade

    • Bars with different grain sizes. The minimum is 2, although experienced craftsmen use at least 3 for high-quality sharpening.
    • Leather. Moreover, it is natural, not a substitute, and quite thick. For example, from an officer’s sword belt or other belt.
    • Paste GOI.
    • Vaseline (technical).

    Sharpening on a whetstone

    During the initial processing of the blade on an abrasive with large grains, the direction of translational movement is back and forth. But if the final finishing of the cutting part is carried out, then the technique changes. The blade moves only forward, with a sharp edge. During the “reverse stroke” it should not touch the abrasive.


    Produced sequentially:

    On a fine-grained block

    The position of the knife is selected so that its sharp edge is always perpendicular to the motion vector. Sharpening at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the block, diagonally, is pointless.

    The picture shows how we are usually used to holding the blade. This is a wrong position.

    An option is to do the finishing on fine-grained sandpaper or even wet brick. There is advice that the blade should be moistened with water before processing. You can try, but it’s not certain that it will help, since the grade of steel plays a role.

    On the skin

    In this case, the position of the blade changes. It is fed forward not by the cutting edge, but by the butt. Moreover, this is done no more than 3 times on one side, after which the position of the blade changes.

    To give it the proper sharpness, the leather is pre-treated with GOI. If this product (which is often the case) is a solid substance, then a mixture is prepared on its basis. Powdered GOI is added to the Vaseline and stirred constantly. Then this mixture (or a purchased paste) is rubbed onto the skin.

    These are, perhaps, all the tricks that can simply bring a sharpened blade to a state of “razor sharpness.” The difficulty is not in any special technology, but in the need to be extremely careful and maintain the sharpening angle unchanged. This is precisely what prevents many from bringing the knife to perfection.

    The author does not claim that this method is the only correct one, since every good owner has his own “professional secrets”. But the fact that the result of such sharpening will be excellent is guaranteed.


    Sharper than a razor: how to sharpen knives correctly

    Everyone has knives. Regardless of who you are—an experienced nymphomaniac who won’t go out on the street without three blades and a multi-tool, or an inveterate pacifist and non-resistance to violence—you definitely have a knife. If not with you, then at home in the kitchen. Or in the car. Expensive or cheap, warehouse, tourist, hunting, bought from a fashion catalogue, given to a friend “for a penny”, made in the zone or machined at a secret factory from a rocket nozzle - there are countless of them.

    Typical “knife in the car just in case”

    Three quarters of them are stupid. Sometimes you go with friends to the pampas, you need to cut something, and they’re like: “Oh! I have a knife in my glove compartment!” Something fearful is brought into the light of God, whose wit varies from “dumb as a Siberian felt boot” to “only used to cut up dead mongrels.” And what? They used this to open cans, chop nails on a dare, and pick at bricks. This is how it became. It’s easier for me - I always have a “folding bag” with me, for a quarter of a century now. And it's sharp.

    Do you want the same? Learn to sharpen.

    Sharpening and editing

    First, let's separate these two concepts. Sharpening is the formation of a cutting edge (CR), and editing is needed to bring this edge to working condition. At high magnification, the cutting edge of a knife sharpened on a large block looks, frankly, unimportant and resembles a rock ridge eaten away by erosion.

    Editing the paint using a fine abrasive allows you to bring this visual nightmare to a more or less decent state. The knife begins not only to cut, but also to shave (if, of course, you did everything correctly).

    About the bars

    The oldest and most common way to make a knife sharp is by hand sharpening on abrasive stones. A set of decent whetstones is necessary for any thoughtful knife lover, because it is not only a working tool, but also a reason for pride. For home and family, it is recommended to have two or three bars of different grain sizes, as well as a piece of leather rubbed with GOI paste for removing burrs (more on that another time) and final finishing of the blade.

    Professional sharpeners, depending on their qualifications, can use up to a dozen natural stones of different characteristics, but the average person has no need for such delights.

    Set of Japanese water stones of various grain sizes

    In everyday life you can easily do without such a set. The cutting edge on the blade can be shaped quite successfully using a flat "velvet" file or a piece of sandpaper glued to a piece of wood. In “street” conditions, I even had to sharpen cheap Chinese knives on a concrete curb block, and edit them on river pellets.

    Editing the blade on the belt

    But this is completely extreme, and if you decide to master the “correct” manual sharpening, then for starters you can buy an inexpensive combined (double-sided) stone, which is now a dime a dozen in Chinese online stores. Their quality is uneven, but it is quite possible to find very decent samples. I don’t recommend using diamond-coated whetstones - they eat up the blade too much, and there’s a high chance of getting damaged.

    How to do it manually?

    Regardless of whether you decide to master manual sharpening or use small-scale mechanization means, the right thing to do is start with a block of the coarsest grain size and move on to finer ones. It is advisable to hold the knife perpendicular to the block.

    The most important thing is to maintain the same angle of inclination of the blade to the surface at all times. Movements when sharpening should be uniform and monotonous. The sharpening stone and the surface on which it rests should not move.

    To do this, you can put a piece of sheet rubber on the table, or, failing that, a moistened sheet of paper.

    Grinding the first third of the knife edge "G. SakaiFoldingHunter" on a 600 grit water stone (before starting work, a block of natural stone is soaked in water for 15 minutes, and then its surface is lubricated with soapy water)

    Don’t forget to periodically check how much metal is being removed from the handle, and don’t press the knife too hard - the pressing force against the block should be small but constant. Moving the knife away from you or towards you is a matter of taste; to save time, I do it in both directions. To begin with, you should practice using a regular board instead of a sharpening stone, and, say, a short ruler instead of a knife. Hands will remember.

    Many consider the sharpening process to be a kind of movement meditation; in principle, that’s how it is. The need for constant control and concentration on the task at hand forces you to disconnect from external factors. It turns out to be a kind of zen.

    About angles

    Holding a knife at the desired angle while sharpening is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. And what is this corner like? For the vast majority of the inexpensive knives mentioned above, the sharpening angle is 20-30 degrees.

    There are many ways to “calculate with your hands” the desired tilt of the blade; The simplest one is to fold a sheet of thick paper into a triangle, one fold is 45 degrees, the second is half as much, 22.5.

     We place the resulting pyramid on the block, carefully press the blade against it and remember the tilt and position of the hands.

    20-25 degrees is a good angle for a well-worn carbon Opinel

    For the same purposes, you can use special wooden corners or several coins glued with superglue. Or simply buy a special clip for the blade, which will prevent the edge from being too “collapsed”.

    True, if the steel is completely “plasticine”, they try to increase the angle as much as thirty-five degrees - cutting such a product will be quite lousy, but it will take a long time. Here you can also play with a sheet of paper, but you will have to fold it not in four, but in three - as a result you will get a corner with a working side close to 33 degrees.

    For soft steels there is another trick: the angle is maintained around 30 degrees, but one side of the cutting edge is smoothed almost “into a mirror”, and the other is sharpened on a rough, coarse-grained whetstone. This method is popularly called “gypsy”; at the industrial level, it degenerated into the notorious “laser-sharpened knives” (although, of course, there was no smell of laser there).

    Small teeth on one side, a smooth surface on the other, and even the top layer of steel is carburized to increase hardness - it cuts well until it gets dull. For cheap domestic stainless steels such as 40X13, 65X13 or the favorite of Chinese manufacturers 420J2, this method works well - try it yourself.

    I don’t want to study, I want it straight away!

    Japanese masters said: “Out of a hundred students sent to be sharpeners, only one has the ability, and out of a hundred capable ones, only one will become a decent master.”

    Well, they are all to hell with this approach! After all, the meat for shish kebab needs to be cut right now!

    So, if you are learning Zen in other ways, or you don’t have enough time/patience, or, finally, you suffer from an acute form of upper limb aphedronality, don’t despair. Especially for such cases, there are a lot of simple but effective devices that help keep the cutting tool in very good condition.

    Twenty years ago, the pioneer and main manufacturer of such devices was the American company Lansky; its Lansky Sharpening System (LSS) set was a kind of standard on the market. Today, our dear Chinese comrades offer exact copies of the “system” at half or three times the price. The stones, of course, are of a lower grade, but otherwise the thing is quite suitable.

    American and Chinese sets - the choice is yours

    And here's how they sharpen it:

    As you can see, everything is very simple and effective. Anyone can do it. However, more complex sharpening devices are now available, real machines with a bunch of adjustments and replaceable whetstones.

    But LSS remains a timeless classic. In our area it was dubbed the “Lansky corner” - and be careful not to confuse it with the “Lansky flyer”. The flyer is also a simple device from the same company and it also helps in maintaining the sharpness of the knife. However, it is not suitable for sharpening, but for editing it is the sweetest thing. “CrockStick” are two pairs of metal-ceramic rods of different grain sizes in a wooden box-stand.

    Place a pair of rods at the desired angle, take the knife with your “working hand”, and hold the base of the sharpener with your weak hand. Hold the pre-sharpened blade vertically and move it downwards, as if cutting a piece of sausage - the cermet will quickly bring the edge to a razor sharpness.

    The “corner + flyer” pair is an almost ideal option for anyone who doesn’t want to bother with bars. However, there are a lot of “bagels” on the market now, from famous manufacturers to budget Chinese. Choose according to your taste and wallet.

    Other knife blades

    Manual and mechanical, of various designs - the knife-loving public has come up with a lot of things, but personally I respect only two varieties.

    Firstly, the grinder. This is a belt surface grinding machine that allows you to perform a variety of operations - from sharpening a blade to making a knife (and other useful things made of wood and metal) in general.

    Making a grinder with your own hands is especially chic; many topics are devoted to this on specialized forums. With proper practice, sharpening a knife with this device is literally a matter of minutes. I don't have a grinder, but I want one. Of course, there is nowhere to put it, but I still want to.

    Secondly, musat. In essence, it is a round (less often semicircular or oval) file with a very fine notch. Musats are made of steel (including diamond-coated) and metal-ceramic.

    Despite all its primitiveness, it is the musat that is the primary tool for straightening knives in the kitchen. However, it all depends on practice: in the same way, it is necessary to maintain a constant correct angle in relation to the blade. Whether to steer the blade towards yourself or away from you is your own choice. The main thing is to develop the correct movement.

    I almost never use other “sharpeners” and don’t see much point in them. It will be interesting - I'll tell you next time.

    What if there is nothing at hand?

    Plate. An ordinary plate. A favorite topic and one of the favorite knife myths is “the steel on the knife must be soft so that it can be sharpened on a bowl.” The Uzbek pchak, which is cited as an example, is in fact far from an ideal knife, both in design and in steel, but in the Soviet Union it was one of the few national knives that could be purchased without fear of criminal prosecution.

    Ay, hit me on the hands, I'm slipping into extraneous topics again

    A ceramic plate is not particularly suitable for sharpening; it is more suitable for straightening, but in fact it is a fine-grained abrasive. Average “kill” “Victorinox”, “Keys”, “Okapi” and so on (that is, knives with a short blade length and relatively soft steel) can be brought to a very decent condition in 15-20 minutes. Be sure to make sure that there are no chips or gouges on the bottom that will damage the metal.

    Carefully, without unnecessary pressure (so that the blade does not bend), strictly observing the angle, move the edge along the bottom and after a quarter of an hour enjoy the fruits of your labor. During the process, the plate will have to be turned - the pores in it quickly become clogged with metal particles, so that the cutting edge stops grinding.

    Let’s say, you won’t be able to bring a knife with such a tool to the point of “cutting along the hair on the fly,” but you can confidently cut a sheet of paper.

    No matter how the gentlemen perfectionists wrinkle their noses (who don’t feed them bread, but let them rape every piece of iron with a full set of Japanese water stones from 300 to 20 thousand grit inclusive), it is precisely this status - “cuts paper” - that allows you to classify your knife as sharp.

    Also suitable for straightening a soft, dull blade are the side glass of a car door, an oak or beech board, a leather belt (even without special pastes applied) - and you’ll learn a lot more with experience.

    Finally, a few tips for those who want to master manual sharpening. If you use natural or artificial stones (I'm not talking about diamond stones and grinders), remember: NEVER SHARPEN DRY. Be sure to wet the work surface. Sharpening stones can be water or oil, be sure to use these liquids according to the instructions.

    Start your training not with the most expensive or dullest knife in the house, but with a cheap and moderately dull one. This will make it easier to see mistakes and achieve the desired result. But if you screw it up, it’s no big deal.

    And of course, don't lose patience. Ninety percent of sharpening is your skill and knowledge, and the tool only accounts for the remaining ten percent. Everything will work out for you - and may your knife always be sharp.


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