How to sharpen a drill

Drill sharpening device

The efficiency and accuracy of the work are determined by the condition of the tools used. This is true for drilling and a specialized tool - a drill. Its functionality is determined by sharpening. Due to friction, the tip is subject to heat and wear. Therefore, to maintain functionality, it is necessary to periodically restore the geometry. For this, a drill sharpening device is used. Below are their options and features.

Principles of sharpening drills

These works are carried out in accordance with the rules and using appropriate equipment. However, experienced professionals are able to restore sharpness on sharpening machines by holding the tool manually. Such work requires a lot of experience, otherwise the drill can easily be damaged.

There are a number of sharpening rules:

• The tip should be sanded for up to 2-3 seconds per approach. This is due to the “releasing” of the metal, which consists of a loss of hardness due to loss of hardening, with longer exposure due to heating. Evidence of this process is the presence of temperature discoloration on the edge.
• During mechanical sharpening, the edge should be directed towards the rotation of the sandpaper.
• The basic principles of sharpening are determined by the size and configuration of the tool. Thus, drills with a diameter of up to 4 mm should be held motionless during each approach. For spiral versions, only the back surface is sharpened.
• The sharpening angle is determined by the type of target material. Sometimes one fixture is re-sharpened depending on the target materials.

The frequency of sharpening is determined by the type of drill. Thus, specialized models for wood, including feather ones, are not sharpened at home. In addition, they slowly become dull. This is also true for carbide tools. Pobedite options designed for concrete cannot be restored at all. Thus, twist drills for metal are most often sharpened.

The latter are distinguished by a small edge, which intensively heats up from friction due to the small dispersion area. Overheating leads to dullness. Signs of this include creaking, rapid heating of the device without moving deeper, waste in the form of sawdust rather than curled shavings.

Using a dull drill leads to loss of efficiency and accelerated tool wear.

Tools

For sharpening, two types of devices are used: universal-purpose attachments or stops and highly specialized devices.

The simplest devices include a hand holder. This tool only serves to hold an object in a specific position. Sharpening control is carried out visually. For this, an arbitrary reference point is used. Therefore, experience is required to operate this device. Its advantages include simplicity, compactness, and low cost. The main disadvantages are low processing accuracy and increased requirements for the skills of the performer.

The stop for an electric sharpener is a universal device used for fixing tools and is not specifically designed for a drill. Many models have tilt angle adjustment and are equipped with a marking scale.

This determines better accuracy of work than with a manual holder, however, in this case, the skills of the performer are of great importance. In addition, there are more advanced and universal options with additional height adjustment and designed for mounting the part on a workbench instead of the emery body.

Such stops are compatible with any electric sharpeners and allow you to process cutters, chisels, knives, screwdrivers, etc.

Semi-professional guides for different drills are more advanced tools compared to those discussed above. They provide reliable fixation of all linear parameters with setting values ​​according to markings and high-precision control of sharpening (up to microns). Installing the device in the gutter prevents it from moving or turning.

Linear movement is assumed, controlled by a limit stop or a performer, and the movement of the edge along an arc. These devices provide good sharpening quality. However, professional skills are required, since correct processing requires taking into account the type of drill. Due to the lack of automation, guides are classified as professional devices.

However, there are also semi-automatic versions of guides equipped with a sharpening unit. They eliminate the need to install a stop on the workbench and change discs.

It should be noted that all the devices discussed above are designed for standard electric sharpeners. In view of this, you must first install the emery disc.

Electric sharpening machines are designed for restoring twist drills. That is, these are highly specialized devices. Their main advantage is considered to be ease of use, eliminating the need for special skills and experience of the user. This is due to the automation of the device. The performer only needs to place the drill in the hole, taking into account its diameter. This also eliminates the possibility of errors, ensuring accuracy.

However, for most variants of these devices there are no settings. Because of this, they are more relevant for domestic use. Some models are equipped with an attachment for scissors and knives. There are professional options that allow operator control of sharpening. In the models under consideration, the drill is mounted in an individual cartridge instead of a common holder.

They are equipped with settings for the sharpening angle, material removal depth, and edge processing method.

Another simple option for everyday use is represented by attachments for sharpening drills. The drill attachment for sharpening drills includes a casing with sandpaper inside.

In industrial conditions, with intensive use of drilling machines, it is necessary to constantly restore their working elements. For this purpose, there are racks presented by professional stands with sharpening devices for various options. They are versatile and highly productive, but very expensive.

Regardless of the type of device used to sharpen the drill, accuracy control is carried out using a template. It allows you to determine the accuracy of the angles of the cutting part.

Homemade devices

There is an extensive list of sharpening devices for the above types. In addition, in order to save money, some users create simple homemade options. There are also homemade templates for checking the sharpening of drills.

The simplest sharpening devices are bushings.

These tools, with an internal diameter corresponding to the transverse size of the tip, are rigidly mounted on the base at a specific angle. Full fixation of the drill is necessary due to the fact that minimal fluctuations of 1-2° lead to a significant decrease in sharpening accuracy.

Homemade products are often equipped with devices for securely holding the drill. In the simplest case, they are represented by bars with holes corresponding to the size of the target tips. A more complex option is a holder of aluminum or copper tubes.

Also an important element in the design of a homemade sharpening device is the tool rest. It acts as a stop for the workpiece and ensures its reliable fixation and precise movement relative to the sandpaper.

The simplest sharpenings for drills are represented by triangular bars with a certain angle, in the base of which holes are made for devices corresponding to their diameter. Such homemade tools were quite popular several decades ago in the absence of an extensive list of branded equipment on the market.

There are devices to ensure the correct sharpening angle of the nut. First of all, select a nut, the diameter of which is determined by the target diameter of the drill. Using pre-made markings, two cuts are cut using a caliper. A smaller one is welded to the first nut, placing a washer inside the larger diameter nut. A bolt is screwed into a small nut. To sharpen, the tool is placed in the cut and clamped with a bolt.

Home machines

It is possible to create a more complex device for sharpening drills with your own hands, represented by a machine. There are drawings of different designs. Once you understand the operating principle of such a mechanism, it is clear how to make your own design.

A serial device is suitable as a basis for creating a machine for sharpening drills with your own hands. When equipping it with additional elements, a number of rules are taken into account.

• Firstly, the axes of the tool rest and the circle must coincide. In this case, they must be located in different horizontal planes, and the axis of the tool rest must be located below the axis of the emery.
• Secondly, it is necessary to firmly fix all structural elements.
• Thirdly, they provide manual and semi-automatic modes for the machine.
• Fourthly, they provide the tool rest with the ability to place the object at any angle.

To create machines, publicly available materials and components are used. The tools used are a welding machine and a grinder.

Structural elements are made of sheet metal.

If you are creating a machine from scratch, you should select a motor. For a mini machine, for parts with a diameter of up to 20 mm, an electric motor with a power of 0.5-0.8 kW is sufficient. In addition, old low-speed engines are also suitable. High speeds are only relevant for carbide models, which are rarely sharpened. For conventional options, on the contrary, they can cause overheating.

To create a swing stop that provides semi-automatic operation, a loop connection is used. By selecting the bracket, tube and bolt, it is necessary to ensure that there are no backlashes. This way you can make a stand with two degrees of freedom.

To adjust the sharpening angle, the platform used to fix the tool is rotated. The oscillating rest provides articulation.

The tool rest is secured to the body using a metal “cheek”. The guide with a pre-made triangular groove on the support plate is mounted with a screw connection.

It is important to choose the right grinding wheel. Sodium carbide jigs are very common and are suitable for machining high-speed steel, which is used for the production of a large part of drills. They are designated by the marking 64C and green in color. The grain size for these wheels ranges from 8 to 16 N. They are prone to heating, so there is a long continuous interaction with the device. In addition, the tool regularly has to be treated with a soda solution.

Thanks to the ability to rotate 90° on the machines, it is possible to sharpen drills using different methods. The location of the support plate (its upper surface) above the axis of the circle ensures good processing of the rear surface. By fixing the oscillating plate, the machine is adapted to sharpening carbide models.

The part is placed in a groove with free longitudinal movement, but a constant sharpening angle, with the edge parallel to the guide plate. Upon completion of the position adjustment, the feed is carried out to the emery. Processing is carried out from top to bottom.

To create tools for sharpening drills with your own hands, there are drawings both in general and individual structural units.

It is required to ensure complete fixation of the tool relative to its own axis. With minimal rotation, you will have to redo the sharpening.

Upon completion of the work, check the geometry of the device after it has cooled, taking into account that differences in the length of the edges between each other up to tenths of a mm are acceptable. This is especially true for small diameter devices. However, for machine tools this is not necessary due to high accuracy.

The different lengths of the edges with symmetry and correct angles are explained by the shifted center of sharpening relative to the axis of the device. Such a tool will not fit well into the hole and create runout, which can lead to tool breakage.

After sharpening, you may end up with asymmetrical edges if the alignment is correct. One of them will interact with the surface, resulting in a decrease in efficiency. This will also entail intense heating of the device, leading to the release of the material. Therefore, the resulting hole will be wider than the diameter of the drill.

Source: https://stankiexpert.ru/tehnologicheskaya-osnastka/prisposobleniya/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-sverl.html

Homemade tools for sharpening drills

A drill is perhaps one of the most common devices for mechanical processing of materials, both in everyday life and in production, which allows you to quickly and accurately make a hole in a surface with a wide variety of structures.

Whether it's a hand hammer, an electric drill, or a large radial drill press, they all use a drill bit as the cutting tool.

It is a hardened carbide metal rod of various diameters, with a shank and a working part in the form of two or more cutting edges, which, when rotated, remove material.

Drill angle: individual approach to each material

Depending on the type of surface, requirements for processing quality and a number of other conditions, the shape of the drill can have a very different appearance. The most common option is when its working part consists of two cutting edges twisted together in a spiral, forming a cone at the end of the drill, the height of which determines the sharpening angle of the drill. Its value depends on the hardness of the material being processed and can have its own values ​​for each material:

• carbon steels, alloys of cast iron and hard bronze - from 116º to 118º;
• products made of brass, soft bronze and copper – from 120º to 130º;
• aluminum and wooden surfaces – 140º;
• polymers and plastics – from 90º to 100º.

Conditions for a long and active drill life

If we exclude the thoughtless (or hopeless) option of using a drill without pobedit tips for working on concrete or stone (when the tool fails literally in a minute), then the cutting edges become dull most actively when drilling hard metals.

The service life of the drill in this case depends on the hardness of the surface being machined, as well as the rotation speed, feed force and the presence of cooling of the cutting tool. It is extremely easy to determine when the cutting qualities of a drill are deteriorating by the characteristic sharp whistle and the need for more pressure on the drill.

As a result, the drill heats up very quickly, drilling time increases significantly with a simultaneous decrease in the quality of the resulting hole, and the drill must be replaced to continue normal operation.

Since drills are considered consumables and have a relatively low cost in small sizes, many simply throw them away and replace them with new ones.

However, this approach can only be justified if the volume of work is small, the price of the part is low, and the proximity of a hardware store is close. It is much more economical and faster to sharpen a metal drill with your own hands.

There are a lot of devices for carrying out this operation, and, as a rule, the price of such equipment directly depends on the speed, versatility and quality of processing of the cutting tool.

The correct sharpening form is the key to effective work.

As a result of processing, the cutting edge of the drill is given a certain geometry, a priority for a particular diameter of the drill and the structure of the surface being processed. To obtain the required shape, accordingly, different methods of sharpening the cutting edge are used. There are single-plane, conical, two-plane, screw and cylindrical types of sharpening.

At home, the first two methods are most often used as the simplest, and drills with a diameter of up to three millimeters are sharpened in one plane, ensuring a thirty-degree slope of the rear corner.

The disadvantage in this case is the high probability of destruction of the working part of the edge due to its thinning, therefore, for drills of larger diameter, sharpening in the form of a cone is usually used, forming an angle at their tip in the range of 118-120º.

Ways to achieve the desired sharpening quality

In principle, if you have certain skills, sharpening can be done without an auxiliary tool. The main thing is to maintain the required processing angle, as well as the equal length of the working surface of the cutting edges and their symmetrical inclination relative to the drill axis.

However, achieving this in practice is not so easy; a very small error in any of the listed indicators is enough, and your drill will not work properly. The use of special devices simplifies the process, but you must agree that it is not advisable to purchase an expensive machine to put a pair of metal drills in order.

In addition, a homemade device for sharpening drills will help you cope with this task, albeit with less comfort, but also not bad.

With all the variety of design options, the operating principle of all devices of this type is based on the formation of a rigid template or guide along which the tool to be sharpened is fed to the emery wheel in a certain plane.

A nut, a screw, a direction - that’s all the device

Perhaps one of the fastest and most affordable options is to make a device for sharpening drills from a nut. Its six faces form an angle of 120º on adjacent planes and can serve as an excellent template for setting the desired sharpening angle of the cutting edge of the drill.

The procedure for making such a device is quite simple and does not take much time. The nut, flat side up, is clamped in a vice and, using an angle grinder (grinder), longitudinal cuts are made along the line connecting the opposing corners of the hexagon.

On one side of the hardware you can make six recesses (according to the number of vertices), thus forming three guides.

The size of the nut, as well as the width and depth of the guide sample, are selected based on the diameter of the drill being sharpened. After this, the entire outer surface of this simple device is carefully processed with sandpaper or a file to remove burrs.

That's all, the simplest device for sharpening drills with your own hands is ready. Now the drill that requires sharpening is placed inside the guide (between two opposing corners) so that the edge being processed slightly protrudes beyond the top of the hexagon.

The device is clamped in a vice, tightly fixing the drill in the groove of the nut with the tip up, and using the same grinder, carefully grind off the protruding cutting edge, using the side surfaces of the hardware as a guide, forming a sharpening angle of 120º.

If necessary, the drill in the groove can be secured with a clamp, and instead of an angle grinder, a sharpening machine with an emery wheel is used.

There is never too much hardware: modernization of a nut device

This design can be somewhat improved by making deeper (depending on the diameter of the drill being sharpened) V-shaped cuts in the opposing vertices and welding a smaller nut on the same side of the device. In this case, the drill can be fixed with a clamping screw screwed into a nut welded on top.

As a result, there is no need to use a vice and clamp (the main thing is not to pinch the screw so as not to bend the drill). Such a device allows you to successfully sharpen drills of even small diameters (up to three millimeters), when it is almost impossible to maintain and control the sharpening angle without special tools.

Wooden guides for sharpening drills

Now let's look at how to make a device for sharpening drills from blocks or thick plywood. The structure consists of a wooden guide rigidly attached to the base.

The base part of the device is made of a flat rectangular board (thick plywood) on one side of which a rectangular cutout is made to provide access to the side surface of the emery wheel.

Then an overlay is prepared from plywood in the form of a right triangle or trapezoid with a side slope at the base of 60º (from the top - 30º), which guarantees a sharpening angle of 120º. The dimensions of the guide should ensure free placement of the drill being sharpened along it, both in length and height.

The finished overlay is attached to the far edge of the base board using self-tapping screws at an acute angle towards the emery wheel. Sharpening drills for metal with a device of this type requires its clear fixation along the outer (wide) surface of the abrasive.

Each cutting edge is formed separately by smoothly rolling the drill towards the rotation of the circle, then the same procedure is repeated for the second side, achieving perfect balance. With frequent use, wear may occur on the wheel, and you will have to either move the device along the sandpaper or replace the abrasive.

This method is good because it makes it easy to obtain the required inclination of the cutting edge by quickly replacing the upper guide with the required size.

Another option for processing drills, actively practiced at home, is a wooden vertical stand with hollow metal bushings of various diameters, which are placed in a block at the angle required for sharpening. As a result of machining, a cone is formed on the back of the cutting edges, but without the correct clearance angle.

Professional solutions: excellent results for little money

All homemade devices provide an acceptable, but, alas, imperfect result. Even without taking into account the high probability of error when making sharpening devices yourself, there are still a number of parameters, non-compliance with which leads to rapid failure of drills. That is why large manufacturers are developing complex devices and even machines to bring cutting tools into working condition.

One of these mechanisms is a device for sharpening drills, drill grinde, which makes it possible to restore the sharpness of spiral drills for metal with a diameter of three to nineteen millimeters.

The device easily copes with the task of forming a cutting edge of any inclination, while having a scale with standard sharpening angles (98, 118, 136 and 176 degrees, as well as for countersinks). Ideal sharpening quality is guaranteed by precise positioning of the drill thanks to the clamping screws.

The heel (rear corner of the cutting surface) is formed due to a small axial inclination, which sets the arc movement of the drill during processing.

Source: https://FB.ru/article/61710/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-sverl-kak-zatochit-sverlo

Do-it-yourself drill sharpening machine - how to make a device

When drilling holes in parts made of metal, the tool used is subject to active wear, which leads to intense heating of the drills and, as a consequence, to their failure.

To avoid this, it is necessary to regularly restore their geometric parameters, and a special device for sharpening drills helps to do this as accurately and efficiently as possible.

This simple device, which you can make yourself, allows you to quickly and efficiently sharpen dull drills and not spend money on purchasing new ones.

Sharpening a drill on a homemade device

A device designed for sharpening drills is especially relevant in cases where these tools often have to be used on metal, as a result of which they quickly wear out and require regular restoration.

When processing wood, the drill used for these purposes practically does not wear out and, accordingly, requires minimal attention to the parameters of its sharpening.

For drills, the cutting part of which is equipped with carbide inserts, such a device is also not particularly significant, since they are practically not subject to regrinding and are used by craftsmen until they are completely worn out or broken.

Many experienced specialists do not use sharpening devices at all, completely relying on their experience and eye. However, as practice shows, in such cases it is better to use devices that allow you to mechanize this process. This will ensure maximum accuracy and the required quality of the result.

Metalworking machines are required for the manufacture of high-precision fixtures

The modern market offers many devices for sharpening drills that allow you to quickly, efficiently and accurately restore the geometry of the cutting tool, even if you have no experience in performing such procedures. Meanwhile, you can not spend money on purchasing such devices, but make a simple machine for sharpening drills with your own hands.

Manufacturing options

Whatever device or machine is used to sharpen a drill for metal, its quality must be controlled. For this, a special template is used, which can also be serial or made by hand.

This template is necessary primarily to control the accuracy of the angles of the cutting part, which are formed during the process of sharpening the drill. The tools used to work with different materials differ from each other, including the magnitude of such angles.

You can find out the exact values ​​of the latter from the reference table.

Table 1. Drill sharpening angles

Working with different materials and knowing the angles of the cutting part of drills for such materials, you can make several templates at once and use them to control the correct sharpening of the same drill, which in this case acts as a universal tool.

As the simplest device for sharpening drills, you can use a sleeve with an internal diameter corresponding to the transverse size of the drill, rigidly fixed to a reliable base at a certain angle.

When selecting a sleeve for such a device, you must ensure that the diameter of its internal hole strictly corresponds to the transverse size of the drill being sharpened.

The tool being processed should not be allowed to dangle in such a hole, since even a 1–2° deviation of its axis from the required value can seriously reduce the quality and accuracy of the sharpening performed.

Drill sharpening device

It is better to immediately equip a homemade device for sharpening drills with a holder made of copper or aluminum tubes, the internal diameters of which correspond to the standard sizes of the drills you most often use.

You can do it simpler and supplement such a device used for sharpening drills with a wooden block. Holes must be drilled in the block corresponding to the sizes of tools of various diameters.

The most important design element of such a device is the tool rest, which simultaneously solves several important problems:

• ensures correct fixation of the drill and its precise movement in relation to the surface of the grinding wheel;
• acts as a reliable support for the tool being processed.

Diagram of the simplest device made from a wooden block

A similar device based on an oak block with holes of different diameters was used by our grandfathers, who used it to sharpen drills with high quality and precision. The main task that a homemade machine or device used for sharpening drills must solve is to correctly orient the cutting part of the drill being processed in relation to the working surface of the grinding wheel.

To make a homemade machine for sharpening drills, you can use various designs of such devices. The corresponding drawings are easy to find on the Internet. Moreover, if you understand the operating principle of such a device, then you can make your own sharpening machine according to your own design.

Quite a serious device that provides good sharpening accuracy

Drawings of fixture parts

Promopore Promopore platform Movable platform Drill fastening and thrust screw Rotary platform Bolts, nuts, pins and washers

There is an important rule that must be observed when working with such a device: during its use, the drill being sharpened should not rotate around its axis. If the tool rotates even at a small angle, sharpening will have to be done again.

After sharpening the drill, it should be allowed to cool. Then you need to check its restored geometric parameters using a template. It must be borne in mind that the cutting edges of the tool may differ from each other in length by no more than tenths of a millimeter. It is especially important to comply with this requirement for drills with a small diameter.

Among the mistakes made when sharpening drills using such a device, two of the most typical ones stand out.

1. The length of the cutting edges, even with their symmetry and correctly selected angles, is not the same; accordingly, the drilling center is shifted relative to the tool axis. A drill that was sharpened with such an error will create a strong runout during the drilling process, and it will be quite difficult to get it into the center of the future hole on the surface of the workpiece. A tool sharpened in this way is highly likely to break during further use.
2. When the drill is accurately centered, the angles at which its cutting edges are located are asymmetrical. Since this causes only one cutting edge to work, drilling will occur slowly, while the tip of the tool will actively heat up. This will lead to the tempering of the metal from which the drill is made, and the hole created will be broken (will have a diameter greater than the transverse size of the tool itself).

How to make a machine for sharpening twist drills

As a basis for the manufacture of a sharpening machine for spiral-type drills, you can use any serial sharpening unit that can operate without runout and withstand significant loads. When equipping such a machine with additional devices, the following requirements must be met.

• The axis of the tool rest must coincide with the axis of rotation of the grinding wheel, and it can be located with it in the same horizontal plane or be higher than it.
• All elements of the structure being created must be securely fixed to ensure the safety of sharpening work.
• The design of the device must allow sharpening of drills both manually and semi-automatically.
• The device of the tool rest should allow the drill shank to be positioned at any angle.

Assembly for sharpening drills

The manufacture of this device for sharpening drills does not require complex technical devices and scarce materials, which will have to be purchased additionally. All components can be found in almost any home workshop or garage. As equipment and tools with which such components will be modified before assembling the device, you can use a regular grinder and a welding machine.

Since the stop of such a device must be oscillating, which is necessary for sharpening drills in a semi-automatic mode, a loop connection should be used to fix it. When selecting a tube, bracket and bolt for the fastening unit, you should keep in mind that there should be no play in the device. The homemade product of the proposed design has two degrees of freedom.

Fixture details

The platform of such a device, on which the drill being processed is fixed, has the ability to rotate along a vertical axis, making it possible to change the sharpening angle of the tool. In addition, the tool rest, resting on a horizontal axis, can make oscillatory movements, which ensures correct articulation during sharpening.

To manufacture the structural elements of such a device, sheet metal of various thicknesses is used, namely:

• support plate – 4 mm;
• drill guide plate – 5 mm;
• other structural elements - 3 mm.

The tool rest, on the top of which the support plate is installed, must be securely fixed to the body of the sharpening machine. For this, an additional metal “cheek” is used, connected to the device bracket.

The guide plate, on the surface of which it is necessary to make a triangular groove designed to accommodate the tool being processed, is fixed on the support plate using a screw connection.

Plate guide groove

The design and design features of the drill sharpening device in question allow it to rotate at an angle of up to 90°. Thanks to this ability, you can sharpen drills using this device using almost any of the methods used today.

The drill, sharpened using such a device, fits into the guide groove and can move freely in it in the longitudinal direction. In this case, the sharpening angle of the tool does not change.

Installing the drill into the guide groove of the plate

Since the upper surface of the support plate is located slightly above the axis of rotation of the grinding wheel, when using such a device, the optimal sharpening shape of the back surface of the drill is achieved.

The process of sharpening drills using such a device is as follows.

• The tool is positioned in the guide groove of the fixture so that its cutting edge is parallel to the edge of the guide plate.
• After adjusting the position, the drill is slowly fed to the working surface of the rotating grinding wheel.

The process of working with such a device is well demonstrated in a video that is easy to find on the Internet.

Despite the simplicity of the design, such a device ensures high accuracy of sharpening, for quality control of which you don’t even need to use a template. If you fix the swing plate of this device at a fixed angle, it can also be used for sharpening drills equipped with carbide inserts.

Several recommendations for choosing sanding wheels

In order to successfully sharpen metal drills, most of which are made of high-speed steel, it is necessary to use a sufficiently hard sharpening wheel. For this purpose, you can use an abrasive tool made of silicon carbide.

Such wheels, which can be identified by their green color and marking 64C, should have a grain size in the range of 8H - 16H. When using discs made of this material, you must keep in mind that they become very hot during operation, so you should not allow the drill to be sharpened to be in prolonged contact with the abrasive tool.

To prevent overheating of the drill when sharpening it on such a disk, the tool must be regularly cooled using an aqueous solution of soda.

When sharpening drills using a grinding wheel, it is very important to ensure that the working surface of the abrasive tool runs over the drill being processed, that is, moves from top to bottom, and not vice versa.

Source: https://derevyannie-doma.com/materialy/stanok-dlya-zatochki-sverl-svoimi-rukami-kak-sdelat-ustroystvo.html

DIY drill sharpening device - Metals, equipment, instructions

It is quite simple to make a device for sharpening drills with your own hands; the conditions for success will be knowledge of the rules for sharpening a cutting tool, as well as the ability to work with hand tools and technical savvy.

Features of drill sharpening

The basic rules for ensuring high-quality sharpening are:

• in one pass it is necessary to remove a small layer of metal;
• during the work process, the drill is repeatedly cooled in an aqueous or water-soda solution;
• the rotation speed of the sanding wheel should be as low as possible;
• the drill should not overheat during sharpening;
• During the work process, the drill is directed against the movement of the abrasive wheel.

The volume and nature of the work performed depend on the type of wear on the cutting tool. Depreciation can be classified by:

• back surface;
• jumpers;
• corners;
• chamfer;
• front surface.

Depending on the type of sharpening of the drill, its technical characteristics, as well as its purpose, the following types of processing are recommended, such as:

Type of sharpening Diameter Purpose and characteristics of sharpening angle

Single normal – “N”	up to 12.0 mm	For universal use. Angle – in accordance with the material being processed.
Single with jumper point – “NP”	up to 12.0 mm	For processing steel castings. Angle – 115-120°.
Single with a point of the jumper and ribbon - “NPL”	over 12.0 mm	For steel and steel castings as well as cast iron. Angle – 115-120°.
Double with a pointed jumper - “DP”	over 12.0 mm	For steel and cast iron with unskimmed crust. Sharpening is performed at two angles: 116-118° and 70-75°.
Double with a point of the jumper and ribbon - “DPL”	over 12.0 mm	For universal use. Angle – in accordance with the material being processed.
According to Zhirov's method	over 12.0 mm	Used when processing fragile materials. The main sharpening angle is 118*, additional sharpening angles are 70° and 55°.

The sharpening angles for twist drills used in processing various materials must be clarified before using them, because... they vary from 85 to 135*, which is due to their viscosity.

How to make a machine with your own hands

To sharpen twist drills, any sharpening machine (unit) can be used, powered by an electrical network of 380/220 Volts, equipped with an emery wheel and equipped with a special device that ensures the fixation of the drill being sharpened at a certain angle to the axis of rotation of the abrasive element of the device.

Basic requirements for special devices that ensure high-quality performance of work:

1. The axis of the device must coincide with the axis of rotation of the abrasive wheel. It can be in the same horizontal plane with it or be slightly higher than it.
2. The equipment and fixtures used must be securely fastened.
3. The design of the device should make it possible to sharpen the drill at different angles, depending on the user’s needs.

To make one of the options for such devices you will need:

• Hand tools, angle grinder (“grinder”), welding machine.
• Sheet steel 3.0 - 4.0 mm thick, as well as small diameter steel tube available.

Sheet steel

Work on the manufacture of the machine is carried out in the following sequence:

• The sharpening machine used (No. 5 in the diagram) is firmly fixed to the selected surface.
• A platform is made from strip steel (No. 1 in the diagram), on which the drill will be fixed (No. 3 in the diagram).
• The shape of the site can be arbitrary, the only condition is that a groove is made at the location of the drill using a grinder.
• Holes are drilled on the platform (No. 6 in the diagram), which serve to secure the mounting plate (No. 2 in the diagram), as well as holes that provide connection of the device to the grinding machine (not indicated in the diagram).
• The shape and size of the mounting plate can be arbitrary.
• The attachment point to the base of the grinding unit is made from a metal tube and strip steel. The presence of a tube allows the device to move in a vertical plane - it becomes possible to change the sharpening angle of the drill.
• The attachment point for the sharpening device to the body of the sharpening machine depends on the type and design of the sanding wheel protection unit (No. 4 in the diagram), as well as the presence of a stop (platform) of the specific sanding unit.
• If desired, the fastening unit can be equipped with additional elements that provide oscillatory movement of the device in the horizontal plane, which will ensure the required articulation during the work process.
• After all the elements of the device are assembled, it is attached to the stop (casing) of the sharpening machine and the functionality of the manufactured device is checked.

Device for sharpening drills at home

The quality and accuracy of drilling depends on the sharpness of the working tool. In addition, unlike a table knife, the drill must be sharpened correctly. Experienced mechanics can straighten the cutting edge on a regular sharpening machine by simply holding the drill in their hands (at least according to them). But this method requires skill and many years of experience. Even if you have a steady hand and an excellent eye, without understanding the process, you will simply ruin the instrument.

A few basic rules for sharpening (using the example of twist drills for metal):

For a better perception of the material, let’s remember the structure of the drill.

• Do not press the tip against the sandpaper for more than 2-3 seconds at a time. The metal heats up and the so-called “tempering” occurs, that is, deprivation of hardening. Accordingly, the necessary hardness of the metal is lost. The first sign is the presence of temperature discoloration on the edge.
• For drills with a diameter of up to 4 mm: each time the sandpaper plane touches the drill, the drill is held in one position: rotation around its axis is not allowed. For larger diameters, the sharpening geometry is slightly different.
• On twist drills, only the back surface of the cutting part is sharpened.
• The cutting edge should be directed towards the rotation of the sharpener (for mechanical sharpening).
• The main angle (2φ in the illustration) depends on the type of material being processed.

Which drills should I sharpen and how often?

Feather and other special wood drills cannot be repaired at home, and they do not become dull so quickly. Pobedite tips for concrete cannot be sharpened in principle. The most popular tool remains - twist drills for metal. Of course, they are also used for processing wood (plastic, rubber and even stone), but this is not relevant to the topic.

Twist drill. The cutting edge is small in size, so during operation it quickly heats up due to friction (there is no dissipation area). The main reason for dullness is overheating. When used correctly, wear does not occur as intensely. Characteristic signs of a blunt drill:

• A creaking sound is heard during operation.
• Instead of curled shavings, sawdust comes out of the hole.
• Instant heating of the tool without moving deeper.

Important: Do not use a dull drill; wear from overheating will only progress.

So, it's time to sharpen the tool. You don't want to ruin the drill and want to mechanize the process.

Mini sharpening machines are at your service:

All devices are divided into two types: attachments or stops for universal tools, and independent devices of narrow specialization. Let's look at the most popular of them, from simple to complex:

Hand holder

This is just the device for those who have a steady hand and a diamond eye. In fact, it only allows you to hold the drill in a given position without fear of injuring your fingers. Angle control is visual, according to the position of the “wings” relative to any landmark. There are few advantages: instant readiness for work, compactness and price. The disadvantages are obvious: manual control of the process does not add accuracy.

Stop for electric sharpener

In fact, this element is not a special device for drills. It simply allows you to fix the tool at a certain angle. The accuracy will be higher than in the previous version. Most stops allow you to set the angle of inclination, and even have a marking scale. And yet you have to rely on firmness of hands.

There are also more advanced stands: with replaceable elements and adjustment of not only the angle, but also the height. The devices are mounted not on the emery body, but on the workbench: which makes them more versatile.

In fact, such a stop can be adapted to any electric sharpener. An additional bonus is that with the help of such a stand you can sharpen knives, cutters, screwdrivers, chisels, etc.

Semi-professional guides for all types of drills

This is a fairly advanced tool that allows you to control sharpening characteristics with micron precision. All linear parameters are securely fixed, the values ​​are set according to the markings. The drill is mounted in the groove, accidental displacement or rotation around its axis is excluded.

For sharpening, the possibility of both linear movement and movement of the edge along the arc path is provided (for conical sharpening of large diameter drills). Linear movement (along the axis) can be controlled by a master, or a limit stop can be installed.

From the point of view of processing quality, the device has practically no shortcomings. But for proper sharpening, the operator must know the parameters of the drill. That is, there is no automation: therefore the tool belongs to the professional category.

As a development of the line - a guide with its own sharpening unit. There is no need to install a stop on the workbench and change discs. In fact, you have a semi-automatic tabletop sharpening machine.

Important note: All listed devices are designed to work with standard electric sharpeners. Therefore, before starting to process drills, it is advisable to install a special emery disc.

Electric sharpening machines

They are specialized power tools for performing a single task: sharpening twist drills.

Even a person who is far from technology can use the machine (although why does he need sharp drills?). The operator only needs to determine the diameter of the drill and immerse it in the appropriate hole. It is convenient to work, errors are practically excluded. However, all drills are sharpened with the same comb. The price to pay for ease of use is the lack of flexibility in settings. For home use - the best choice: especially if there is an additional attachment for sharpening knives and scissors.

There are versions for masters. The drill is installed taking into account the sharpening parameters, the process can be controlled by the operator.

The sharpening angle, the method of edge processing (linear or conical), and the depth of metal removal are selected. The drill is not located in a common holder, but in an individual cartridge.

Industrial sharpening equipment for a metalworking shop

During intensive use of drilling machines, a separate post is required to restore the functionality of the tool. Professional stands for sharpening drills of any diameter save time and effort, but the cost of such equipment is too high for home use.

The information obtained will help you choose a sharpening device without extra financial costs. In addition, there are replaceable attachments for hand-held power tools (for example, a drill). But this is a topic for another article.

Source: https://instrumentiks.ru/sovety/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-sverl

DIY drill sharpener – Machine tools, welding, metalworking

Drills must be of high quality and well sharpened by a professional craftsman. In the old days, drill sharpening was done by hand.

Today, special devices for sharpening drills have appeared, and their design is very simple.

Why is sharpening needed?

If the drill becomes dull, it is very difficult, and sometimes impossible, for them to drill through the surface. It is also worth noting that for different types of surfaces, drills must have a certain sharpening angle, for example, for a plastic surface the angle will be 30 degrees, for hardened steel this angle will be 130 degrees.

In cases where a perfectly drilled hole is not required, the sharpening angle can be 90 degrees.

How to properly sharpen a drill

You can sharpen the drill yourself using abrasive discs. During sharpening, the drill must be held by the working surface. You need to hold the tail of the drill with your other hand.

From the side, the drill must be pressed against the abrasive disc. Then it is advisable to turn it with extreme care, as a result the cutting edge will take the required angle and structure.

Sharpening the drill must be done on each side separately. It is also necessary to ensure that the tip of the drill is located exactly in the center when sharpening the cutting part. This must be done correctly, as an error in sharpening can cause the drill to skewer to the side.

Sharpening a drill with your own hands is not the best way, since it can lead to a number of inaccuracies, for example, the cutting edges may not be correct in relation to the axis of the tool.

Sharpening device

The device is designed for sharpening blind or through drills made of cast iron and steel. This device is made taking into account the types of sharpening, as well as its size. It is easy to change the sharpening angle on the machine.

There are two types of devices that will help sharpen a drill: a household and an industrial machine. In the first case, the sharpening device takes up little space and fits perfectly into the home, but such a machine can only sharpen small drills.

Industrial machines that are made to sharpen drills with large diameters have great power. The industrial machine has a clamp and a sharpening wheel.

With this device, drill sharpening occurs under the supervision of an operator who can easily control the process. Such devices are designed for long-term operation.

How to make a machine for sharpening drills with your own hands

We will need the following materials: an abrasive disc, a switch, a motor with good power, a stand, wires, an axle and a plug. Also, for the safe use of the machine, it must have a housing, outside of which it is necessary to place an axis with an abrasive wheel for operation.

You first need to decide on the installation location of the machine, since it will be connected to an outlet.

Also, our device should be placed on a table, preferably made of metal, where the engine will need to be placed, and marks should be placed for making holes for the bolts.

An abrasive disc is placed on the motor shaft. To secure it to the shaft, you must first put on the washer, then the disk, and then the washer again. After this, you should install the fastening nut on the pre-prepared thread on the shaft.

The motor from a washing machine is perfect for our device. The power of its motor will be sufficient for the process of sharpening drills. Wires can also be taken from improvised equipment.

You need to connect the wires to the starter, which should have three open contacts. The winding must be capable of connecting phase lines using two starters connected in series.

The off button should be connected to NC, and the start button will be connected to NO, and it should also be in parallel connection with two NO contacts of the starter.

When you press the power button, voltage will be applied to the winding and as a result the circuits should close. When the button is released, the voltage supplied to the starter should not be removed. When disconnected, the engine must stop.

The engine itself is a safe device, but to protect its mechanisms from dust it is necessary to make a frame that will protect it from environmental influences.

To make it, you can use a metal box or make a protective screen out of glass. It is also worth installing a casing that covers the end of the disk by a third. It will protect the worker if the abrasive disc cracks.

Photo of sharpening drills with your own hands

Source: https://stanki-info.com/tochilka-dlya-sverl-svoimi-rukami/

Do-it-yourself metal drill sharpening

The quality and accuracy of drilling work and metalworking largely depend on the condition of the cutting working element - the drill. A drill that does not have a sufficient degree of strength, is dull or incorrectly sharpened, will not allow you to make the necessary holes quickly, efficiently and safely. This is especially important when working with metal: a dull drill will definitely not cope with hard material, and will even damage the tool and the workpiece.

Quite stupid

Any drill, including one for metal, wears out during use. The time of its full operation is determined only by the degree of its active use and the volume of drilling performed. There are several signs that a drill is unusable and needs to be sharpened immediately:

1. The drill slowly and unevenly plunges into the material of the workpiece.
2. During operation, the drill quickly and strongly heats up - excessive friction and “chewing” the metal instead of cutting it causes a significant release of thermal energy.
3. The drilling being performed is accompanied by a strong and extremely disgusting squealing-creaking sound.
4. Finished holes have jagged edges and a rough, textured interior.

In general, work performed with a blunt cutting tool is simply ineffective: for a modest result, significant physical and time effort is required. Excessive friction and heat will wear out an already dull drill even faster.

Let's sharpen it ourselves!

Many people, consciously or unconsciously, “finish” a drill until it is completely unusable in order to throw it away and buy a new one. More often than not, this does not even come from a reluctance to get involved with sharpening, but from a lack of knowledge of how exactly to perform it in everyday conditions. However, the sharpening process does not require anything supernatural and can be done using standard tools available in almost any home workshop.

Metal-cutting drills for metal have a spiral (screw) shape, the top of such drills is always pointed. Standard metal-cutting drills have a point angle of 120°; for steel, the angle is 140°.

Drill sharpening is a complex of sequential sharpening of two main cutting edges, two auxiliary edges and a jumper.

Of course, there is usually no point in purchasing special sharpening equipment for home workshops; to sharpen the most commonly used drills in everyday life, up to 12 mm in diameter, you can get by with the following:

• sharpening machine with emery wheel;
• an electric drill, into the chuck of which a drill is inserted and sharpened with abrasive;
• Sander.

It is quite possible to use other similar tools, as long as they provide sufficient rotation speed.

Advice: before starting work, you should prepare safety glasses and gloves to ensure the safety of sharpening metal tools at high speed - sparks and metal dust flying in all directions can seriously damage both your eyesight and your skin. Any convenient container with water will be needed to cool the drill, which is very hot from friction against the grinding wheel; overheating will lead to the fragility of the tool and its final failure in the very near future.

The sharpening option using a machine contains the following sequence of actions:

You should correctly decide on the type of sharpening of the cutting edges, depending on the desired shape of the back surface of the drill:

• single-plane (the back of the pen has one plane);
• two-plane (respectively, two planes);
• conical (the back is a circular cone);
• cylindrical (the back surface is a cylinder of constant or variable curvature);
• screw (spiral back surface).

1. Sharpening should always start from the back surface. It is necessary to continue sharpening in several approaches, tightly pressing the surface to be processed against the grinding wheel and clearly maintaining the required angle, until the back surface acquires the required shape.
2. To sharpen the cutting part, the tool is pressed at an angle of 120°; to obtain the desired angle between the jumper and the cutting surfaces, the drill must be rotated around its axis.
3. The line of the jumper, which plays a serious role for the quality of the tool, when sharpening it should be positioned strictly perpendicular to the axis of the drill - this is not as easy as it might seem at first glance, and accurate sharpening of the jumper requires some experience.
4. You can try to correct the rounded shape of the ribbon by grinding off the length of the drill by 1-2 cm. If this measure does not help, the drill is considered unusable and must be replaced with a new one.

A properly sharpened drill must comply with the following rules:

• it must be symmetrical about its axis;
• its arms should be straight and equal in size - their different sizes when drilling will take the tool to the side and give a hole of a larger diameter;
• the cutting edge should be higher than the back surface;
• The angles of the arms at the top of the drill should be equal;
• the angle between the jumper and the line connecting the opposite vertices of the cutting edges should be 45°;
• the jumper must be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the drill.

Advice: when sharpening any drill by any method, you should strictly adhere to the factory configuration of the cutting edges and jumpers and not try to fantasically reshape them to your own imaginary pattern.

A correctly sharpened drill is a guarantee of neat and high-quality holes, safe work and safety of the tool, as well as an indicator of the professionalism of the craftsman performing them.

Source: https://proinstrumentinfo.ru/zatochka-sverla-po-metallu-svoimi-rukami/

Drawings of a device for sharpening drills with your own hands

If you constantly deal with sharpening hard workpieces, the surface of the drill will very quickly become unusable. It will become dull, become very hot and eventually lose its former strength. All this is a consequence of “letting go” of the metal. That is why such a tool needs periodic sharpening using special devices .

How to make homemade devices for sharpening drills, what templates exist for this and what you need to prepare for work, you will learn from our article.

• Features of sharpening drills
• How to properly make a tool for sharpening drills with your own hands: training video
• Features of sharpening on a simple device
• Using an emery wheel in a homemade sharpening tool

Features of sharpening drills

Drills are inexpensive devices, especially if we talk about those that are widely used for household needs. However, if possible, then after they become dull, it is better to sharpen the tools than to buy new ones.

There are factory-made devices designed for sharpening, but buying them will cost you a lot, and this will not make up for the savings from not purchasing new tools. That is why many craftsmen assemble sharpening machines .

It is worth noting that dulling concerns metal drills, since wood tools are practically not susceptible to this, except when used at high speeds with resinous workpieces. Also, pobedit tips for stone or concrete cannot be sharpened

But many people sharpen metal drills using all the additional devices with their own hands, but the accuracy of such work is far from always ideal, so it is advisable to use at least a minimum of mechanics.

Perhaps it is useful for everyone to know how to properly sharpen a drill for metal.

How to properly make a tool for sharpening drills with your own hands: training video

To make such a device yourself, you will need a control tool (template). No matter how the drill is sharpened, the accuracy is checked with a special template.

Simple ferrous metal drills have an edge angle of 115 to 120 degrees. If the metal is different, then the sharpening angles will also be different:

• for carbide bronze, steel or cast iron it is also from 115 to 120 degrees;
• for soft bronze or brass alloys - from 125 to 135, respectively;
• for red copper 125 degrees;
• for aluminum and soft aluminum alloys, granite, ceramics and wood – 135 degrees;
• for magnesium and its alloys – 85 degrees;
• for plastic, textolite and silumin - from 90 to 100 degrees.

You can prepare several templates depending on the listed values ​​and, in accordance with them, sharpen them yourself. The same drill can be used for different types of workpieces; you just need to change the angles of the top of the workbench.

A simple but very convenient pulling device consists of bushings of different sizes that are attached to the base. You can make them yourself, based on special drawings. Remember that the tool should not be loose in the sleeve, and the quality of drilling may deteriorate even if the error is only one degree.

You can make a large clip based on aluminum or copper tubes, depending on the standard parameters of the drills, or you can take a block of soft material and make many holes in it. It is very important to place a convenient support in the sharpener, thanks to which you can move the sharpening device at the desired angle and hold the stop.

The listed sharpening devices have been manufactured for many decades in a row and are still in demand. To assemble a sharpening machine with your own hands, you can take an oak block instead of a corner.

The simplest sharpening machine can be assembled by simply installing a workbench or table opposite the side of the emery. Even such a simple device ensures high quality and accuracy of work.

Features of sharpening on a simple device

On the Internet you can find ready-made drawings of devices for sharpening drills, or sketch them yourself, but to do this you need to understand the principle of working with a drill.

During operation, it is strictly forbidden to allow the drill to move around its axis. If it turns at least a millimeter, it will be damaged, and you will have to grind off a small distance to re-process it.

After finishing work, the drill should cool down , also take measurements with templates. The edges must be perfectly symmetrical down to tenths of a millimeter. This is especially important if the drill has a minimum diameter.

Sharpening may be accompanied by the following errors:

• the angles will be regular and symmetrical, but the length of the cutting edges will not. In this case, the drilling center will shift relative to the axis, as a result of which beats appear. At the very beginning of work, it will be difficult to hit the markings, and the drill itself may break;
• When the angles of the cutting edge are asymmetrical to each other, the alignment is accurate. When creating holes, only one cutting part works, the work occurs very slowly and the tip heats up quickly. There may be “releasing” of the hardened metal due to heating, the hole may be broken, and the diameter will exceed the diameter of the drill.

to assemble a sharpening machine for twist drills for metal with your own hands using available materials

For the basis of the device, you can take any sharpening machine that is capable of working properly, there is no axis runout, and it maintains speed under load.

The task looks like this:

• the tool rest must stand strictly horizontally on the same axis with the rotation of the emery;
• the design must be safe, reliable and durable;
• it should be possible to sharpen both manually and semi-automatically;
• the shape of the tool rest should facilitate the free lowering of the drill shank to the desired angle.

No specific parts are required to make this device; every home craftsman has almost everything he needs. The workpieces are processed with a grinder , welding or sharpening .

For semi-automatic mode, a swing stop is assumed, so you need to make a loop connection. Accurately select the holes of the bolt, bracket and tube there are no backlashes

The platform must move along a vertical axis so that you can change the sharpening angle of the drill. This axis can be fixed, and the tool rest should swing, while resting on the horizontal axis, which, when sharpening, provides the necessary articulation.

The base plate is made of metal 4 mm thick, and the main parts of the structure should have a thickness of 3 mm respectively. This ensures its high strength. The tool rest is rigidly connected to the emery body. It cannot be attached to the protective casing, so screw the bracket using the metal “cheek”.

Then we screw the guide plate itself for drills with a thickness of 5 mm to the support plate. A triangular groove is sawn into it to secure the drill during processing .

The design has a rotation angle of 90 degrees, which allows sharpening using different methods . Starting from the Leontiev method and ending with pressing at a certain angle and creating an acute angle of the edge due to the curvature of the sandpaper.

During processing, the drill will not only stand firmly in the groove , it can also be fed along the groove to the abrasive, and the sharpening angle will not deviate. Due to the partial excess of the plane of the support plate above the axis of movement of the disk, it is possible to achieve the desired shape of sharpening the back of the edge.

Before performing work, the drill should be pressed against the plate and the cutting edge should be aligned parallel to it. The adjustment is now complete and you can bring the tool to the sandpaper. Sharpening must be done slowly and carefully, carefully monitoring the angle.

Thanks to this homemade tool, high sharpening accuracy and there is virtually no need for a template. True, it will take time to install the machine and adjust the angle, but then you can easily quickly sharpen the drills in the required quantity.

But if you need to sharpen a drill equipped with a carbide attachment, you can attach a swinging plate to a fixed angle. To do this, place several washers under the axle nut.

Using an emery wheel in a homemade sharpening tool

For universal sharpening work, white wheels based on electrocorundum are mainly used. They are used for sharpening shovels, axes, knives and metal workpieces.

For the purpose of processing carbide drills or high-speed metals, you need to take abrasive green wheels based on silicon carbide marked 64C. But for household needs, a wheel grit of 25N is sufficient.

Sharpening drills requires a finer fraction in the range from 8H to 16H . Remember that silicon carbide-based abrasives get very hot during operation, so the drill cannot be kept in contact with such abrasive for a long time. Let the metal cool down after 2-3 approaches and cool it in soda water.

The quality of the edge depends on the direction of rotation of the abrasive . Its working surface must run over the cut (go from top to bottom).

The peripheral surface of the emery must be smooth during processing. It can be adjusted with a CBN-based nozzle. If the disk has a small diameter, it is permissible to use pliers in which the CBN cutter will be held.

So, we looked at how at home you can assemble and use devices of varying complexity for sharpening drills and more. You can choose the appropriate option depending on your household needs.

Homemade machine for sharpening drills

Source: https://instrument.guru/osnastka/chertezhi-prisposobleniya-dlya-zatochki-sverl-svoimi-rukami.html

Do-it-yourself metal drill sharpening device

You can easily make a device for sharpening a drill for metal with your own hands. This will require a little time and a few basic elements for the future design.

Photo of the device

Devices used for sharpening drills for metal, wood, plastic and other materials are divided into two types:

1. Specialized. They can only sharpen one specific type of cutting tool;
2. Universal. With their help, all kinds of cutters, drills for metal, wood, etc. can be sharpened.

If we are talking about making a device with our own hands, craftsmen usually try to make a universal model. The device is easy to use and effective for sharpening drills of small and medium diameter. Ideal for household purposes.

Elements of the device

Device

To make a sharpening device, you will need some elements and tools:

• Stand;
• Toggle switches for turning the sharpener on/off;
• Disc for grinder;
• Electric motor;
• Electrical cable to connect the device to the network;
• Plugs;
• Case material.

All the components of your drill sharpening machine will be located inside the body. This way you can increase your own safety when working with sharpening equipment.

When assembling the structure, leave the pulley from the electric motor accessible, since the sharpening disc is placed on it. It is advisable to first select a stationary location for the machine, since it should be fixed on a workbench or desktop.

The process of assembling the sharpening device itself is as follows.

1. Install the electric motor in a pre-selected location.
2. On the table where the device for turning metal drills will be located, mark the fasteners.
3. Using an electric drill, make holes according to the markings for the mounting bolts.
4. Secure the electric motor with metal clamps in its rightful place.
5. Fix the casing, which will act as protection.
6. Install a grinding disc on the electric motor pulley.
7. The engine itself should have an extended pulley, as this will be more convenient when operating the sharpening device. Don't forget to put a washer on the pulley before installing the circle.
8. If the diameter of the pulley and the circle do not match, you can use an adapter sleeve. A threaded hole is drilled on the side of the bushing, onto which an auxiliary fastening bolt is then mounted.
9. There is no need to choose an engine that is too powerful. High speeds will only harm your metal drills. Most craftsmen adapt an engine removed from old washing machines to a grinding unit.
10. After completing the assembly, connect the toggle switches, connect the motor and all electrics via cable to the outlet.

Assistive devices

If you managed to assemble with your own hands a fairly useful sharpening device for various drills for metal, wood or plastic, we advise you not to stop there.

There are several additional elements that, by equipping the sharpening device with, you will significantly expand its functionality and increase your level of comfort when working on drills.

• Test template. To determine the correct angles when sharpening a drill, you will need a special table or template. The template will always be at hand. With its help, you will determine how correctly the sharpening angles are made, what is the duration of the working edges, and what are the angles between the bridges and the working edges. Templates are made from thin, soft metal on the base of a new drill before its first use;
• Guides. A kind of small attachments made from metal strips. They are bolted to the body of the sharpening device. When working, you will need to place the drill on these guides, gradually bringing the tool to be sharpened to the abrasive stone;
• Goniometers. The easiest option is to take a regular metal protractor, cut off part of the device and attach it to a stand. Cut off the part of the protractor where the scale is more than 30 degrees. This is due to the fact that drills are not sharpened at a smaller angle.

Multitasking device

If you make such a device, the accuracy and convenience of sharpening metal drills will increase significantly. At the same time, assembling the structure is quite simple. To make the mechanism, arm yourself with the following components:

• Roller slides;
• Guides;
• Shaft;
• Protractor;
• Drill chuck.

1. It is recommended to make the guide wide and attach a protractor to it.
2. The role of the rotary axis will be a bolt, which is inserted into a pre-calibrated hole.
3. On the rotating part there is a guide and a movable metal plate.
4. An axis and tube are mounted on the surface of the plate.
5. One end of the axle is used to install the drill chuck, and the other is used under the handle.
6. The thrust plate will move due to the threaded axis.
7. At the bottom of the plate there is a limiter. It performs two functions at the same time - it fixes the mechanism in the required position and indicates the desired angle.

The device operation process looks like this:

• The cutting drill is installed in the chuck;
• The plate is fixed in the required position to create a sharpening angle;
• The device rotates along the longitudinal axis with a handle;
• The angle is marked;
• The cutter is turned 90 degrees, after which the second half of the metal drill is processed with your own hands.

Operating rules

Since we are talking about working on a homemade drill sharpening device, you must follow some rules here. They will protect you from injury and also allow you to sharpen the drills correctly.

1. When sharpening drills, make sure that the hangers are the same. This will ensure that the drill fits neatly and evenly into the device and, after sharpening, will be able to drill holes efficiently.
2. Before starting the machine, make sure that the sharpening disc is firmly secured to the electric motor pulley.
3. The first stage of drill sharpening is performed with a coarse abrasive sharpening disc. When burrs begin to appear on the metal drill, change the sharpening disc to a more delicate one to complete the sharpening.
4. When sharpening with your own hands, strictly adhere to the specified angle.
5. The rotation of the grinding wheel must be carried out strictly in the direction along the blade. If you move in the opposite direction, you will not be able to complete the job properly.
6. Make sure that the drill does not overheat while sharpening. Stop periodically and let the metal drill cool down. But under no circumstances should you cool it by immersing it in cold water, as this will cause the metal to lose its strength.

Watch visual videos about assembling sharpening devices. Be sure to take into account the diameter of the cutters that you will sharpen on the machine, so that the assembled mechanism will ensure high-quality and efficient processing of products.

Source: https://steelfactoryrus.com/zatochka-sverla-po-metallu-svoimi-rukami-prisposoblenie/