How to sharpen a drill bit for a wood router

Do-it-yourself wood cutter from a drill - Metalworker's Guide

The drill has long been used not only for drilling holes in various materials. This tool has found its application not only in the field of construction, but also in the field of designing and assembling furniture.

To do this, special types of attachments are installed on the tool, which are called wood cutters. Wood cutters for drills allow you to carry out different types of processing of wood materials.

To do the job correctly, you will need to choose the right nozzle.

A wood cutter for a drill is somewhat reminiscent of a drill, however, instead of a cutting edge there are teeth of various designs. The ability to perform certain technological operations depends on the shape of the teeth. To secure the attachment in the tool chuck, the cutter has a cylindrical shank.

Set of wood cutters

The working part of the nozzles is sharpened using high-precision equipment, and specialized grades of steel are used for their manufacture. Their service life depends on the quality of the steel used for the production of nozzles. Milling attachments for drills come in the following types:

  • Mounted, the dimensions of the mounting holes of such products are 32 mm, and they are intended to perform relevant tasks on stationary milling machines
  • End mills are also called finger cutters, and their seating area can range in size from 8 to 12 mm. Such products are suitable not only for stationary milling machines, but also for hand drills

Types of wood cutters

! For hand tools, it is important to use exclusively end mills. Using these products you can process not only wood materials, but also drywall.

Milling cutters are produced according to their intended purpose, depending on the types of wood materials that are planned to be processed with them. Some of the most reliable and wear-resistant products are those designed for processing plywood.

Their main advantage is plates made of hard alloys, which has a positive effect on the service life of the products.

Depending on what operation is planned to be performed on the wood material, cutters are divided into appropriate types (moulding, disk, seam, fillet, etc.).

How to use a drill with a cutter correctly

Before you pick up the tool and attach the attachment to its chuck, you should understand that this can only be done for rough work. To achieve perfect finishing of the material, you will need to use a milling machine.

To use a wood cutter on a drill, you need to understand the peculiarities of performing these actions.

The principle of operation of the nozzles is similar to drilling, only in this case the material is processed, obtaining various types of holes and shapes in it.

To process wood with such an attachment at home, you need to resort to building a milling machine with your own hands from a drill.

! Special brackets are produced in the form of a frame for securing the drill, which allow the use of hand tools for working with cutters.

Drill with a special bracket for working with a milling cutter

Not many home craftsmen know which drill is suitable for milling.

To obtain high accuracy of cut shapes in wood, the tool must have a speed control function and a large power reserve.

A drill as a milling tool is not the best solution, as the following negative factors contribute to this:

  • Negative impact on the tool gearbox
  • Rapid heating of the tool, which shortens its service life
  • Probability of misalignment in relation to the workpiece being processed
  • Unreliable fixation in the tool chuck

Despite all these disadvantages, hand tools continue to be used to cut wood. When performing work, you must comply with the following rules:

  • Don't rush to do the work
  • Act carefully
  • Securely fix the workpiece
  • Pause periodically to allow the instrument to cool down.

! If you plan to work with a wood cutter for a long time, then for such purposes it would be a good idea to purchase a special attachment made of carbide materials. As soon as the nozzle is securely fixed in the key chuck of the tool, you can begin to perform the appropriate actions.

Choosing wood cutters for a drill

When choosing nozzles, their parameters are important. Nozzles come not only of different types, but also differ in the types of materials that they plan to process. Some of the main criteria for choosing milling attachments include:

  1. Product size, which depends on the technological task
  2. The shape of the cutting knives, on which the final result depends
  3. Sharpening angle
  4. Production material, which affects not only the capabilities of the nozzle, but also their service life
  5. Purpose. The attachments can be used to process not only wood materials, but also metals, plastics and various types of natural stone.

Processing wood with a milling cutter on a drill

When choosing a product, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer, but if you plan to use the attachments in question on drills, then it is advisable to buy cutters from inexpensive products.

Do-it-yourself vertical milling cutter

It is quite difficult to operate a drill with such an attachment installed in its chuck, and it is almost impossible to obtain a clean result.

If you don’t have a milling machine at hand, but you need to use a milling attachment to do rough work, then a regular drill will do.

To do this, it is recommended to fix it in a vertical position and securely fasten it.

! To be able to regulate the rotation speed of the tool chuck, it is recommended to use a voltage regulator.

Homemade milling machine

In order to rough-process wood, you will need an appropriate set of wood cutters, as well as a homemade machine from a drill, which you can make with your own hands.

Manufacturing the installation does not require any skills or knowledge, and in each individual case the design may differ.

The main rule of such an installation is to securely secure the tool.

To make a homemade milling machine from a drill with your own hands, you will need to perform the following steps:

  1. A table is being made, which requires wood. The amount of wood required to make a table depends on the size of the future device
  2. Creating a platform with a limiter. The drill will be fixed in this area and moved using the appropriate guides. To make the platform, you can use chipboard and steel tubes
  3. Installing the tool on the platform. To secure the tool, you need to use steel plates and threaded connectors in the form of bolts and nuts
  4. Making a handle that moves the tool vertically up and down

Homemade machine for milling wood

The drill milling machine is ready for work. You can install the appropriate cutters in the chuck and begin testing it. Do not forget that the work must be carried out with extreme caution, since the slightest wrong movement can cause the tool to be torn out from the installation structure.

If the device you built yourself passes the first test, then you can make a control panel for it to make it easier to operate.

Such a tool has one significant advantage - it can be used for both milling and drilling. The drill can be removed at any time and used outside the structure.

Do not forget about the negative impact on the drill when working with attachments, which greatly reduces the service life of the tool.

Source: https://ssk2121.com/freza-po-derevu-iz-sverla-svoimi-rukami/

Do-it-yourself wood cutter from a drill - Machine tools, welding, metalworking

All photos from the article

The main purpose of a drill when working with wood is to drill holes. However, this tool is much more functional than many people think. To expand its functionality, special wood attachments are used, which, in fact, is the subject of this article.

Electric drill with attachment

Next, we will look at what drill attachments exist for woodworking and for what purposes they are used.

Types of nozzles

Not everyone knows that with the help of attachments, in addition to drilling holes with a drill, you can perform many other operations, such as:

However, it should be said right away that attachments are not a complete replacement for special equipment. The quality of operations performed with their help is inferior to individual instruments. However, in some cases they can significantly simplify wood processing with your own hands.

Below we will take a closer look at all types of attachments for performing the above work.

Drill Drum Attachment for Sanding Wood

Sanding and polishing

There are many types of attachments for grinding and polishing wooden surfaces, the main ones are listed below:

Type of transaction Types of nozzles
Grinding Nozzles of this type are a rod with a grinding material attached to it, which can be used as:
  • Sandpaper;
  • Special brushes;
  • Rigid fabric such as felt.

According to the type of design and shape, grinding heads are of the following types:

  • Disc discs - made by analogy with discs intended for conventional grinding machines, the only thing is that instead of threads they have a pin for fixing in the chuck.
  • Cup - they are a cup with a brush. They are usually used for removing old paint from wood and other rough treatments.
  • Drum type - they are a cylinder with sandpaper attached to the walls. Such heads can be used to process the surface inside the holes, as well as the end of the boards.
  • Petal – a large number of sandpaper petals are attached to the rod of this tool. With the help of such attachments, radius grinding of wood with a drill can be performed, as well as processing of parts with complex surfaces.
Polishing Polishing attachments resemble the heads described above, the only difference is that the filler is made of soft materials, which means they provide a finer surface finish. Most often, these products take the form of a disk made of soft material on which foam rubber, felt, felt or other soft filler is fixed. Based on the degree of softness, polishing tips are divided into the following types:
  • Hard;
  • Average;
  • Soft;
  • Super soft.

In addition, they can vary in shape and size, which allows you to choose the most optimal tip for polishing a particular type of surface. For example, conical and thin cylindrical nozzles can be used to polish holes.

Felt tips for polishing

The choice of nozzle in this case depends on the operation being performed. For example, if you need to sand a surface in a hard-to-reach place, an excellent option is a sanding attachment on a drill for petal-type wood. If you need to clean the surface from paint or renew it, you should give preference to cup attachments.

Feather drills

Making large diameter holes

To make large diameter holes, several types of nozzles are used:

  • Feather drills - thanks to the flat cutting part and special sharpening, they allow you to make holes in wood, chipboard, plywood and OSB with a diameter of up to 60 mm. It should be noted that feather drills are available not only for wood, but also for metal.

Attachment with a set of wood crowns

  • Wood drill bit – allows you to drill holes in wood with a diameter of up to 100 mm.
  • Forstner drill – has a centering tip. Using such a drill, you can make blind holes, for example, for installing hinges in furniture making.

In the photo - Forstner drills

Advice! When making holes in chipboard and other similar materials, do not press the drill too hard, as this can lead to chips and cracks.

It must be said that there are special devices on sale that allow you to change the drilling angle. Their purpose is to provide ease of drilling in hard-to-reach places.

Cylindrical wood cutter for drill

Milling

With the help of special tips, the drill can even be used for milling wooden parts.

There are different types of cutters (cutters):

  • Cylindrical;
  • Face;
  • End;
  • Disk;
  • Shaped, etc.

The choice of cutter depends on the type of operation being performed. For example, if it is necessary to make grooves in a part, use disc cutters for wood drilling. To make complex cuts, it is better to use shaped cutters.

It should also be noted that cutters differ in the shape of the teeth, which are:

  • Pointed;
  • Backed.

The good thing about backed teeth is that, if necessary, they can be resharpened, while pointed teeth cannot be restored.

Wood cutting attachment

cutting

The attachment on a drill for cutting wood is a rather complex mechanism that works on the principle of a jigsaw. It can be used to cut wood up to 20 mm thick, as well as plywood and chipboard.

In addition, the attachment can be used to cut plastic and even steel. Thus, this device will be useful to every home craftsman, unless, of course, there are special tools for cutting a particular material.

However, it should be noted that the price of such a nozzle is quite high, which is explained by the complexity of its mechanism.

Advice! Before making an internal cut with a jigsaw attachment, you need to drill a hole with a diameter equal to the width of the file.

Nozzles for screwing in self-tapping screws

Screwing in self-tapping screws

The nozzle for screwing in self-tapping screws is the simplest type of tip. However, it should be noted that it can only be used with those types of drills that have a speed reduction option.

These products are usually sold in sets containing heads of several diameters. This allows you to work with self-tapping screws and screws of different sizes.

Here, perhaps, are all the most common types of nozzles. It must be said that there are also less popular tips, for example, flexible drills on cables, which allow you to make holes in hard-to-reach places, as well as angle attachments, which allow you to turn a drill into an angle grinder. True, they can be found on sale much less often.

Drill with angle attachment

Basic rules for working with a drill and attachments

When using an electric drill, like any other power tools, the operating instructions and safety regulations must be strictly followed.

Below are the main ones:

  • Before processing, the workpiece must be securely secured.
  • The nozzle must be securely fixed in the cartridge. If there is play, it is prohibited to work with it.
  • When working with a drill, it must be held with both hands, especially for powerful models.
  • The pressure should not be excessive.
  • It is forbidden to turn on the reverse mode until the drill has stopped completely.
  • When working, you must use personal protective equipment - gloves and goggles.
  • After completing the work, do not touch the drill or other tip for some time, as you may get burned.

Note! You should not try to make a nozzle or adapter yourself. The fact is that electric drills operate at high speeds, as a result of which a poor-quality or unbalanced attachment can cause injury.

Observing these simple injuries will make the work safe, which is the most important thing when performing any construction operations.

Conclusion

Thanks to the large number of woodworking attachments available, the drill is one of the most functional tools. It especially makes sense to use all kinds of tips in cases where the need to process wooden parts arises only from time to time. Of course, for frequent and especially professional work, it is necessary to purchase separate tools.

You can get some additional information on the topic discussed above from the video in this article.

Source: https://stanki-info.com/freza-po-derevu-iz-sverla-svoimi-rukami/

How to make a wood cutter from a drill

A wood cutter made by yourself will be useful for modelers, carpenters, and finishers. A standard tool in stores often does not have the required configuration, so craftsmen modify it to suit their own needs or make it from scratch from cylindrical blanks.

Table of correspondence between cutter diameter and rotation speed for the material being processed.

Preparatory work

For homemade cutters, there are restrictions on the materials in which selections and grooves will be created with this tool. To process the workpiece, sufficient ductility is required; mild steel will subsequently be able to cut wood, but will quickly become dull when processing harder materials.

The blanks are scraps of rods and reinforcement, the ribbed surface of which is removed on a lathe. The technology looks like this:

Diagram of a homemade wood cutter.

  • exactly half of the required length of the cylindrical workpiece is cut off;
  • at the transition from the cut part to the saved part, a smooth transition is created for convenient creation of the profile at the next stage;
  • a quarter is removed from the treated area (the transition is also smooth);
  • at the last stage it is necessary to give the working surface of the tool a rectangular shape, for which the lower part is cut off (the recommended thickness of the workpiece is 2-5 mm).

The cutter is suitable for woodworking when the internal angle coincides with the center of rotation of the tool. To give your woodworking tool the required profile with your own hands, just follow the diagram:

  • sharpening the cutting edge - experts recommend an angle of 7-10 degrees, since an excessively sharp edge does not hold an edge well and has low cutting properties;
  • giving the desired configuration - the profile is made with diamond needle files or cutting discs for angle grinders for metal;
  • To give the working part of the cutter a complex profile, bending or flattening the working part of the tool is used.

A thin wood cutter has a low service life, which can be increased slightly by rounding the corner opposite the sharpened edge.

A special feature of the homemade tool is its multi-pass operation. The strip of the required profile is made several times, since with one pass the cutter may not be able to cope with the entire volume of wood being removed.

Cone modifications of cutting tools

The best cutters are considered to be cone-shaped cutters made of hardened steel.

For cutters with a cone configuration in industrial production, workpieces of complex spatial shape are used. They are difficult to do at home. The cone cutter is used in the production of 3D reliefs (finishing) and furniture grooves. Home craftsmen use drills, which are given the required configuration.

The cutter gives the wood original shapes by passing the tool several times over the surface of the workpiece. Wood is a soft material, so additional strengthening of the metal structure is not required.

The cone cutter removes the excess layer of end elements and is used in cutting modes with medium and high speeds. The drill is cut closer to the shank (1/2-1/4 of the length), each cutting edge is ground down to 1/12-1/3 of the diameter. With greater removal of metal from the surfaces of the spiral profile, the body of the tool is exposed, and the cutting edges disappear. A conical tool loses its cutting properties; making a spiral at home is very difficult.

Source: https://MyTooling.ru/instrumenty/kak-iz-sverla-sdelat-frezu-po-derevu

How to sharpen a wood router

Cutting tools sooner or later become dull. If it is disposable, then there is only one way out - to the landfill.

But the cutting edge of expensive devices can most often be restored.

in this article we will tell you how to give them a “second youth”.

Different cutting tools require a differentiated approach when sharpening. Today we will talk about restoring chisels, planes, wood cutters and metal drills.

Sharpening chisels and planes

Getting a chisel or plane knife into working condition is not that difficult. The procedure for sharpening them consists of only two stages.

When working on sharpening a tool, you will need a regular sharpening machine. A chisel or plane knife for soft wood is sharpened at an angle of 250°. For hard rocks – 350°.

When sharpening, you must constantly maintain a given angle, which is not so easy.

The task can be simplified by special devices for sharpening chisels, allowing you to work in the range from 25 to 35°. To avoid overheating, periodically cool the instrument in water.

You should not immediately grind off the edge of the iron until the cutting part appears.

When bringing its thickness to half a millimeter with a square, check that the axis is perpendicular to the cutting edge.

Final sharpening is best done by hand or on a low-speed water-cooled sharpener, bringing the tool to the required cutting edge sharpness.

When sharpening a round chisel with an outer edge, the tool moves along the block from edge to edge along the entire length of the stone, describing a “figure eight”.

The burr on the inside of the groove, which is necessarily formed during sharpening, is removed using a shaped sharpening stone.

The final sharpening of the cutting edge is done with sandpaper of varying degrees of grain.

Link on topic: Sharpening and finishing of tools with sandpaper (sandpaper)

Sharpening wood cutters

To sharpen shaped end mills, it is not necessary to have special tools.

It is enough to have a diamond block placed on the edge of a table or workbench.

The cutter is sharpened by running its front surface along the block, previously cleaned of resin residues, dirt and dust using a solvent.

If there is a guide bearing, it must be removed before sharpening. An attempt to save a couple of minutes will result, if not in its deformation, but quite possibly in a damaged cutter.

During the sharpening process, the block is slightly moistened with water, and after finishing the work it is wiped dry. As the front surface grinds down, the edge of the cutter will become sharper and its diameter will decrease slightly.

When sharpening a tool, you should use whetstones of different grain sizes, depending on the desired end result and the cleanliness of the surface being processed.

When sharpening incisors, to maintain symmetry, multiple movements are made with equal pressure.

If you have a sharpening machine with a low rotation speed, then installing an appropriate abrasive wheel can reduce manual labor to nothing.

Sharpening a drill for metal

Over time, drills become dull and many people simply throw them away and buy new ones.

However, you can almost always give a drill a “second chance” and extend its service life.

To do this, it is enough to process the dull surface on a grinding wheel.

Before starting work, stock up on a container of water into which the drill will be dipped from time to time to avoid overheating.

Sharpening is carried out sequentially and begins with processing the back surface, gently but firmly pressed against the surface of the grinding wheel until the correct cone is formed.

After this, its cutting part is sharpened and the final finishing of the rear surface is carried out. During sharpening, you must constantly monitor the jumper on the tip of the drill.

For drills with a diameter of 8 mm or less, it should not exceed a size of 0.4 mm. For large samples, the size of the jumper varies from 1-1.5 mm.

Keep in mind that it is not the tip that does the drilling, but the side blades of the drill!

Electric sharpener

Structurally, electric sharpeners are extremely simple.

They consist of an asynchronous motor, grinding wheels and housings.

Shifting the conversation to the plane of choosing a specific manufacturer and model, it should be noted that if you are planning to buy a device for personal purposes, then the brand is not decisive.

Such equipment is connected to the network for a short time and has a fairly large resource. The price of a sharpener directly depends on its diameter.

The larger it is, the more expensive the device. When inspecting the electric sharpener before purchasing, try moving the shaft.

If it not only rotates, but also “walks,” discard it and choose further.

Of course, it is best to plug the sharpener into the network, but not every store will accommodate you in this matter.

Electric sharpeners or sharpening machines are divided into three groups:

  1. High-speed sharpeners equipped with replaceable holders for various types of tools.
  2. Highly specialized machines designed for a specific tool (for example, drills).
  3. Low speed water cooled machines.

If high-speed sharpeners spin up to 3000 rpm, then such machines rotate at a maximum of 150 rpm and can sharpen any cutting tool.

Low speed and water cooling are ideal conditions for a quality cutting edge.

Source: https://steelfactoryrus.com/kak-zatochit-frezu-po-derevu/

Forstner drill: what are they, how to use and how to sharpen these drills

A Forstner drill, like many other tools of similar purpose, is used to create precise and neat holes in various materials. The choice of such tools, which differ in both design and cost, should depend on the material in which the hole should be made, as well as on the requirements for the geometric parameters of the latter.

Cutting cup-type furniture hinges using a Forstner drill

Wood drill. How to choose?

A drill is a cutting tool with a rotary cutting movement and an axial feeding movement. The task of a drill is to create holes in a continuous layer of material. In addition, drills are used for drilling, that is, enlarging existing holes, as well as drilling, that is, creating non-through recesses.

Wood is a fairly soft material. It is loose and can be easily processed with various tools with cutting edges. A high-quality drill should not have any defects, including chips, scratches, dents and other integrity problems.

Also, do not forget that the color of the drill is one of the most important performance characteristics of the tool, because it makes it possible to determine the finishing method of the drill, designed to strengthen the tool.

  • If the drill is black, it means it has been treated with superheated steam to increase strength.
  • The golden yellow drill bit has been treated to relieve metal stress
  • The bright gold drill bit has been treated with titanium nitride, which is used to increase service life
  • The gray steel drill is untreated.

Today, almost all drills come with a set of drills, but they are often modifications of the same type of drill and have different diameters. For this reason, you need to independently purchase different types of drills that will help you accomplish various tasks.

Product cost

If we talk about how much a Forstner drill costs, first of all you should decide for what purpose it is needed. In the case when it is necessary to change the socket in a private house, of course, you can limit yourself to a cheaper analogue.

If a specialist needs it for his professional activities, inexpensive drills can play a cruel joke, for example, the drill will fail when working with expensive materials, as a result of which the reputation of both the master himself and the company from which he provides services will suffer.

The conclusions are obvious. If you intend to use it permanently, or at least frequently, you should purchase a drill whose manufacturer has proven itself and can provide a full guarantee for its product.

Again, if there is a possibility that drills will be needed in a wide variety of diameters, such a set will not be cheap. In this case, you should reconsider your choice towards affordable products, the only thing is that such a set should include a large number of units with a wide variety of modifications.

It is equally important when purchasing to carefully examine the purchased product for defects, especially this recommendation applies to those packages in which it is not possible to see the product.

In a good way, such products should immediately be swept aside into the background, since all conscientious manufacturers have long made it a rule to supply their products to the market exclusively with visual access.

If you purchase such a drill, despite recommendations to the contrary, there is a high probability of causing defects in the material, which are very difficult and often even impossible to correct.

Twist drill

Spiral wood drills are designed for drilling holes in wood of different diameters. Size grid from 3 to 52 mm. There is a point at the end of the drill that makes it easier to start drilling. Large drills (from 10 mm) are equipped with a hexagonal shank, which allows the drill not to rotate during the drilling process. This drill has a chip outlet.

During operation, you need to monitor the number of revolutions:

  • with a drill diameter of up to 14 mm, you need to set no more than 1800 rpm for soft woods and about 750 rpm for hard woods
  • with a diameter from 16 mm to 25 mm, the number of revolutions is up to 1500 for soft grades and 500 revolutions for hard grades
  • with a diameter from 30 mm to 52 mm, it is worth setting 500 rpm for hard varieties and 250 rpm for soft varieties.

If you follow the recommended number of revolutions, you can increase the service life of the drill.

Drill lengths range from 80 mm to 600 mm. As the diameter increases, the length of the drill also increases. A tool with a diameter of 10 mm can reach a length of 450 mm. These drills are suitable for creating holes in logs and thick workpieces.

Who is Forstner?

In the first half of the 19th century, a boy was born, whose name is on the lips of our contemporaries. Having reached adulthood, Benjamin Forstner began to wander around his native America in search of himself. When the young man got married, he decided to devote himself to one occupation in order to support his family.

The inquisitive guy mastered the weapons trade. This became the impetus for his inquisitive mind. Thanks to his resourcefulness, in 1974 the man managed to patent his unique invention - an unusual drill.

Benjamin Forstner, inventor of the drill

He repeatedly presented this find to the public at various specialized events, such as exhibitions and symposiums. And people appreciated it. So much so that they began to produce these drills in considerable quantities.

And our inventor, having taken care of all the legal issues in advance, received royalties from these entrepreneurs as a discoverer. As a result, Benjamin made a considerable fortune.

And he would still be making money to this day if he had not passed away, because such attachments are still in great demand. Yes, now they are slightly modified, but the principle of operation remains unchanged. What is the reason for their popularity, and what, exactly, are they needed for? Find answers in our article.

Feather drill for wood

These drills have a diameter from 10 mm to 55 mm. They are often used to work with fiberboard, chipboard and not very thick boards, because they do not have a chip outlet like a twist drill. As a result, creating a deep hole is extremely inconvenient. There is a centering point. The shank has a hexagonal shape for a tighter clamping in the chuck. This drill bit is ideal for cutting into a door lock.

In addition, the advantage of feather drills is their low cost. Screw drills are much more expensive.

The work must be done at the following speeds:

  • for holes from 10 to 25 mm – 1500 rpm for hard wood, 2000 rpm for soft wood
  • for holes over 30mm – 1000 rpm for hard wood, 1500 for soft wood.

The length of the drill reaches 15cm. if there is a need to make a deeper hole, it is worth buying an extension that will help make a hole of 400-450 mm.

Purpose

The Forstner drill bit was designed for making blind, flat-bottomed holes in soft and hard wood. Currently, it is also used to work with MDF, chipboard, fiberboard and their modifications.

Blind recesses with a flat bottom are most often drilled for the installation of various furniture fittings (door hinges, locks, eccentric and threaded ties). In production, material is saved, the minimum permissible thickness is used, and through holes for furniture are not practiced.

You need a sufficient hole depth for mounting fittings and smooth and neat edges. A Forstner wood drill bit creates a perfect hole with a flat bottom. In this case, only 1–2 mm may remain before the drill comes out. Conventional screw drills, sharpened to a cone, cannot ensure planeness, and feather and crown drills cannot ensure the cleanliness and accuracy of the side surfaces.

Ballerina drill for wood

It is a circular adjustable drill with cutters. This drill will help create a large diameter hole in solid wood, plywood, and chipboard.

The center twist drill is used to pre-drill into the workpiece, and the extendable sharp cutters are used to cut a groove around the circumference. You will not be able to make a deep hole with such a drill, because the horizontal bar on which the incisors are located creates an obstacle.

If it is necessary to make not a through hole, but a recess, then the wood cut at the edges will have to be selected either using a hand chisel or a milling cutter.

The cutters have carbide pads. They can be inserted at different widths if necessary. With this drill you can create a hole from 30 to 120 mm in diameter.

When purchasing such a drill, you should immediately stock up on an additional centering drill so that if it breaks, you can quickly replace it.

Price

Different companies are vying with each other to offer their products. The most common search on the Internet is forstner drill for door hinges. These are produced by different companies, their size is 3.5 cm, and the price of a Forstner drill of this modification starts from two hundred rubles and kopecks.

You will find such prices at Matrix. They produce semi-professional modifications, so this product will not cost that much. The most budget option is amateur attachments. If you plan to purchase something of better quality, then pay attention to “Bosch”.

Source: https://instanko.ru/osnastka/sverlo-forstnera.html

Lewis drill. Wood cutting spiral

The Lewis drill is designed to produce deep, small-diameter holes in wood of various species with any degree of humidity. The screw-shaped cutting edge of the drill begins with a sharp tip, with the help of which preliminary centering of the future hole is performed. And the spiral itself removes chips from the working area.

Design

The Lewis drill is included in the basic tool kit of a professional carpenter, being lightweight, it does not load the motor of an electric drill, and allows you to make blind and through holes in hard-to-reach places: corners of beams, places where wooden parts are overlapped, etc.

The twist drill consists of the following sections:

  1. A shank that has a hexagonal profile and is designed to fix the drill in the chuck of a drill or drilling machine.
  2. The main working part, which is a spiral tape of a constant cross-section and a relatively small angle of inclination. For the Lewis spiral, it is selected in such a way as to ensure reliable removal of chips from the drilling zone.
  3. Centering, ending with a tip with a conical thread, which allows reducing the axial load during the operation. For a tool of relatively low rigidity (and a twist drill is just that), high axial loads become the main cause of failure.

Due to the complexity of the Lewis drill profile along its length, such equipment is almost never manufactured in a welded version. The material is high-speed steel grades 10Р6М5, Р6М3 and the like, according to GOST 19265-74.

A special feature of the Lewis spiral is its single-thread nature, which provides the drill with the ability to spontaneously retract into the cavity of the resulting hole. At the same time, the direction of the drill improves, and as the hole deepens, the edge is trimmed to obtain a smooth generatrix.

How does a Lewis drill work?

At the initial moment of drilling, a conical tip is pressed into the material, which, when rotated, is embedded deeper. Then the main, spiral part of the drill rests on it.

Unlike other designs of wood drills, the tool in question initially has only one working edge, and then drilling occurs with a spiral cutting part.

By increasing the total length of the cutting edge, this helps to reduce the total axial force on the drill, but increases the risk of jamming and “driving” of the drill from the center.

The first problem is solved as follows. Firstly, it is preferable to install a Lewis drill on low-speed, more powerful drills. Secondly, such spiral-like drills are inappropriate to use for making holes in hardwood, since the resulting chips contribute to jamming the waste in a rather long groove. Typically, the number of revolutions is chosen inversely proportional to the diameter of the resulting hole.

To solve the second problem, a twist drill can be used as a reamer, and the preliminary pass, with the exception of particularly deep holes, can be performed using a regular drill. From operating experience it is known that direct production of holes using a Lewis drill is advisable for diameters not exceeding 1530 mm. In other cases, feather drills are used, and twist drills are used only on the last pass, when it is necessary to increase the smoothness of the side walls.

The moisture content of the wood does not matter when using such a drill, nor does the direction of the wood grain.

Features of use

Among the advantages of Lewis drills it should be noted:

  1. Smooth increase in work load as the tool deepens into the material.
  2. High quality of the inner surface of the hole, since the burrs formed during drilling are completely cut off by the side cutting edge and are immediately removed outward by the auger generatrix of the drill.
  3. The wide helical flute ensures reliable removal of chips, regardless of their quantity.
  4. The hexagonal tip on the shank ensures reliable retention of the drill in the chuck.

High quality and productivity, especially noticeable when producing holes of significant depth, do not cancel out some of the limitations of twist drills:

  1. When a Lewis drill jams, which is possible when working with hard wood, it stops almost instantly and is accompanied by a sharp kickback. This could result in injury to the worker.
  2. Since the cutting forces during such drilling are high, the quality of the material is decisive for the durability of the auger drill. Therefore, it is worth purchasing tools from well-known manufacturers who indicate the steel grade (the grade is usually not indicated on Chinese-made drills).
  3. A twist drill has increased fragility, since during hardening it is usually calcined over the entire cross-section. With relatively low rigidity, this can cause destruction of the working part.
  4. The cost of Lewis drills is higher than regular ones, with the same diameters of the resulting holes.
  5. Low-power drills (less than 1000 W) may not be able to turn a drill of this design when started. It is also important that the drill has a reverse function.

How to sharpen a Lewis drill?

With a sharp increase in load during drilling, as well as deterioration in the quality of the resulting hole, Lewis drills must be sharpened. It is performed in the following sequence:

  • When single-plane sharpening, the back angle of the drill is given a value of 2832º using a file, and they try to maintain this value along the entire length of the screw part. When using a grinding wheel, the drill must not be moved. This sharpening is used for small diameter twist drills;
  • When conical sharpening, which should be done for drills with a diameter of more than 68 mm, the tool is placed at the side of the grinding tool. Hold the tip with your right hand, and the screw part of the drill with your left hand, and as close as possible to the cone. By rocking the tool at an angle of approximately 45º and pressing it against the end, they try to recreate the previous value of the taper when moving from the threaded part to the screw part;
  • If it was not possible to maintain the required parameters, the Lewis drill can be sharpened. For this purpose, the rake angle is reduced and the width of the cutting band is increased. True, the drill cannot be used with the same efficiency for drilling viscous wood with high humidity;
  • At the final stage, the drill is fine-tuned, which consists of removing all identified marks and nicks, after which the conical thread on the tip is restored.

Working with Lewis drills must be done with some experience, since this tool design is very sensitive to the torques that load the drill.

Source: https://proinstrumentinfo.ru/sverlo-spiral-levisa-po-derevu-zatochka/

Sharpening cutters: for metal, wood with your own hands, types, application

Sharpening of different shapes of cutters is carried out using specialized equipment. This is a circular cutting tool, although its configuration can vary. The grooves and teeth located around the circumference come in different sizes, and when they rotate, the material is processed.

Types of cutters

There are several types of cutting tools. These include: cylindrical, end, disk, end and groove.

By type of purpose:

  • angular;
  • shaped;
  • keyed;
  • to provide T-type grooves.

On the surface:

  • plastic;
  • tree;
  • metal;
  • glass;
  • others.

Sharpening is difficult, since the length of the cutting base is large. Therefore, specialized tools are used. And in some cases, grinding is carried out manually, but the worker performing this work must have experience. An employee who does not have the skills may allow defects and defects to appear on the teeth: cracks, burrs or cavities, due to which the tool will need to be ground again, and this will lead to a reduction in size.

Milling cutter material

The following materials are used for the manufacture of technological equipment:

  • hard alloys;
  • high-speed steel;
  • metal alloys of increased hardness;
  • metal ceramics;
  • diamonds.

For direct cutting of metal, the edges of the cutting tool are made of:

  • cardan wire;
  • diamonds;
  • hard alloy compounds;
  • ceramic coating.

The difference in technological equipment is determined by its appearance.

Cutter tooth geometry

Productivity depends on proper sharpening of the teeth. Work surface configurations are used to solve even the most complex problems.

The design of a spiral cutter is carried out with a large and small inclination of the teeth at a given angle. The purpose of this type of tool is to carry out roughing and finishing operations, including variable steps.

The rake angle is the angle formed between the flat end and the flute edge of a standard cutter.

Angle value:

  • small no more than 35;
  • large 35 and above.

An excellent option for initial and finishing machining is the tooth angle of 38. Rectangular tools have the maximum value.

A tool with a variable pitch is in demand; the pitch of the spiral is measured along the length.

Application area

There are various types of tools to perform technological operations. Which cutter to use in this or that case, for this you need to take into account what material needs to be processed.

Common types include:

  1. Disk. Elements for cutting material are located on one or both sides at the same time. Used for cutting grooves, sampling, trimming and chamfering.
  2. End Designed for turning stepped and flat bases.
  3. Cylindrical. Available with helical and straight teeth.
  4. Angular. Used for cutting chip flutes in technological equipment.
  5. End. They are used for making ledges, contour recesses and grooves.
  6. Shaped. Designed for processing shaped surfaces.
  7. Worm-shaped. Processing is carried out using the rolling method - touching the workpiece with a tool at one point.

Wood cutters

The following tools are used for processing wooden structures:

  1. End. Outwardly they resemble a drill, but the conical part is missing.
  2. Edges. Used for cutting edges and various recess configurations. Tools for manual milling are structurally equipped with a bearing to regulate the depth of processing.
  3. Grooved. Used for cutting grooves.
  4. Copying. Arrangement of the milling head in the form of an arc.

Cutters for plastic

When processing plastic products, the following tools are used:

  1. End For processing large bases.
  2. Shaped. Used for cutting complex profiles.
  3. End. Used to produce pockets or grooves.
  4. For engraving. With its help, you can apply patterns or logos to the base.

Glass cutters

Diamond cutters are used to prepare glass products. Designed for creating edges and contours using manual or automatic equipment.

Methods for sharpening cutters

Sharpening cutters is difficult, since it is necessary to process curved and long surfaces. It is also necessary to ensure that the abrasive moves with precision along the edge.

Using the machine

The sharpening technology is carried out in stages:

  1. Fastening the cutter in a given position.
  2. Bring the surface to be treated to the abrasive wheel until there is no sparking.
  3. Removing a metal layer with a thickness of 25 to 50 microns.
  4. Sharpen each tooth separately. The work begins by positioning it in the groove formed by the tooth, and the needle should touch the surface of the instrument.
  5. Turn on the sharpening machine and, sequentially retracting the cutter, perform the operation.

To perform the work efficiently, each edge of the cutting base should be sharpened equally, that is, the movements should be uniform.

Using sharpening wheels

The choice of wheels depends on the material from which the tools are made. What kind of circles are there:

  1. Normal electrocorundum and white electrocorundum. Provides optimal sharpening of tools for metal or wood.
  2. Elborovye. Using wheels of this material you can sharpen high-speed steel products.
  3. Green and diamond silicon carbide are used for sharpening carbide products

Source: https://VseOChpu.ru/zatochka-frez/

Forstner drill (mill) for wood: types, rules of choice, sharpening

A Forstner drill, like many other tools of similar purpose, is used to create precise and neat holes in various materials. The choice of such tools, which differ in both design and cost, should depend on the material in which the hole should be made, as well as on the requirements for the geometric parameters of the latter.

Cutting cup-type furniture hinges using a Forstner drill

What are Forstner drills?

Forstner drills differ from other types of drills in two significant advantages.

Firstly, these drills, due to their design features, allow you to obtain a very clean cut. A special cutting rim cuts into the material being processed and cuts the fibers of its structure before the working blades do. It is thanks to this that it is possible to almost completely avoid the formation of chips along the edges of the hole being formed, and to make it with perfectly smooth inner walls and a flat bottom.

Secondly, maintaining the exact direction of movement of Forstner drills during the drilling process is ensured by a special rim, rather than a central point, which is typical for other types of drills.

This quality of the tool, which is used primarily as a wood drill, is especially important in cases where it is necessary to drill overlapping holes or form holes on the end elements of the product, as well as those located at an angle to the fibers that make up the internal structure of the material being processed.

Thus, using Forstner drills, it is possible to obtain high-quality holes even in cases where their location, as well as the internal structure of the material being processed, does not allow the precise direction of feed of any other type of drilling tools.

Making blind holes with a Forstner drill

How to distinguish original products

Not all drills named after Forstner and offered on the modern market have a design patented more than 120 years ago. Meanwhile, most of them work on a similar principle, the essence of which is as follows:

  • The wood fibers located along the edges of the hole being formed are cut by the outer rim of the tool.
  • The radial cutting edges of the internal cutters simultaneously remove material from the center of the hole being formed and guide chips upward, acting like small planes.

There are two main features that allow you to distinguish a real Forstner wood drill from a non-original one. These signs are:

  1. the presence of a small diameter hole in the central part of the instrument;
  2. the presence in the design of the drill of an external cutting rim, which is interrupted by the main cutting blades in only two places (it should be borne in mind that the main cutting blades on the original tool are sharpened only by hand).

Forstner drill: 1 – original; 2 – for machine sharpening; 3 – with carbide cutters; 4 – with teeth

True Forstner cutters are today manufactured by only one company - Connecticut Valley Manufacturing, whose production facilities are located in the USA. Unlike aftermarket tools that are made by casting, a true Forstner cutter is machined from a single piece of carbon steel.

Due to the significant thickness of the cutting edges, real Forstner drills overheat less when drilling and, accordingly, have higher durability. The cost of real Forstner drills is quite high, which is fully justified by both their long service life and the fact that they can be used to process at higher speeds, while the holes created are highly accurate and accurate.

The small diameter hole in the design of Forstner drills makes them more convenient for processing workpieces of small thickness. Meanwhile, getting the central part of this tool into the crosshairs of the markings is problematic, so you have to focus on the outer diameter of the drill, which makes drilling somewhat difficult.

Tool options with a device for limiting drilling depth

A non-original tool can be distinguished from real Forstner drills by the following features:

  • elongated central tip;
  • the presence of cutouts in the rim located at the back of the internal blades (such cutouts allow machine sharpening of the tool, which significantly reduces its cost compared to original drills, the geometry of the cutting edges of which is adjusted only by hand).

These differences explain the fact that a non-original tool costs much less than real Forstner drills.

There is another category of non-original Forstner drills on the modern market, the cutting part of which is equipped with carbide inserts. Due to the peculiarities of their design, such wood drills do not overheat and have a long service life, and their cost is comparable to the price of the original tool.

Meanwhile, they also have one big drawback: their cutting plates, soldered onto the cutting part, occupy a significantly smaller part of the circumference than a solid rim.

Due to this design flaw, the drill begins to vibrate intensely during processing and jumps off the surface being processed when drilling is performed at an angle or from the very edge of the workpiece.

Forstner drill with brazed cutters

Another non-original tool, also called a Forstner drill, is distinguished by the fact that its cutting rim has teeth resembling the cutting elements of a saw. Due to the fact that the contact area of ​​such teeth with the material being processed is significantly smaller than that of a solid rim, a tool of this type does not overheat during processing, which is especially important when drilling large-diameter holes.

That is why wood drills designed to produce holes with a diameter of more than 25 mm are made with just such teeth on the cutting rim. Like drills with carbide inserts, a tool with teeth on the cutting rim does not perform very well when drilling holes located at an angle or at the very edge of the workpiece: in such cases, it can simply jump off the processing zone.

Serrated Drill

Forstner drill material

Most often, drills named after Forstner are made of high-speed steel (HSS), which is not only affordable, but also has good performance characteristics. Ordinary steel, if it overheats, becomes much softer, and the cutting edges of the tool, if it is made of such material, quickly lose their sharpness. This does not happen with high-speed steel, which is highly resistant to overheating.

To reduce the heating intensity of the cutting part of the tool, some modern manufacturers apply a special coating based on titanium nitride. You can apply more pressure to a drill with this coating during processing without worrying about it overheating.

What drill speed to prefer?

When performing processing with Forstner drills, you should adhere to the following recommendations for choosing their rotation speed.

  • For larger diameter drills, to prevent them from overheating, a lower rotation speed should be set.
  • The packaging of any Forstner drills indicates the maximum rotation speed, which must not be exceeded under any circumstances.
  • Even when drilling with such drills at a low speed, you will not deteriorate the quality of the hole being formed, but will only slightly reduce processing productivity.

To understand at what optimal frequency a Forstner drill of a certain diameter should rotate, you can use special reference tables.

Drilling modes in various materials

Tool selection

The answer to the question of whether inexpensive non-original tools should be preferred over expensive Forstner drills depends on what technological problems you are going to solve. If you use wood drills quite often, and the quality of the hole being formed is especially important to you, it is better to purchase original products.

A good alternative to the original Forstner drills is the tool produced under the Convaico brand. The drill of this brand, which allows you to obtain precise and neat holes, is available in a fairly large range of diameters: 6–76 mm in increments of 1.6 mm.

The purchase of such an inexpensive set is quite justified for periodic work in the home workshop related to the processing of soft wood

To perform relatively infrequent work on drilling wood products, you can purchase a set of 6-7 non-original drills of the most common diameters. The cost of such a set, which will allow you to solve various woodworking tasks, will approximately correspond to the price of one drill produced under the Convaico brand.

If you need to drill large diameter holes in wood, it is better to purchase a drill bit with a toothed rim.

Sharpening rules

To perform high-quality sharpening of Forstner drills, you can use the following recommendations:

  • For drills of this type, you should never sharpen the rim, the working part of which must be located strictly in one plane, and this is simply impossible to achieve by hand sharpening.
  • Particular attention should be paid to sharpening the internal incisors, for which you can use a fine-grained whetstone, a file with the finest notch, or a belt-type sharpener. Only the front edge of each cutter is sharpened, after which the burrs are removed from their reverse side, for which a fine-grained stone can be used.
  • The geometric parameters of internal incisors can be easily restored using a belt sharpener. However, you should not remove too much metal, especially in the area near the rim.

The outer cutting edge is sharpened only from the inside so that the size of the rim does not change

To fine-tune cutting edges, it is better to use fine-grained whetstones rather than files.

And in conclusion, we suggest watching a short video that shows the process of sharpening a Forstner drill with carbide cutters on a machine.

Source: http://met-all.org/oborudovanie/prochee/freza-sverlo-forstnera-derevu-zatochka.html

How to make a homemade wood cutter from a drill

Working with various materials requires the use of high-quality cutting tools. Most of the required types have standard parameters and are freely sold in stores, but some samples have specific sizes or shapes. They are not produced or are extremely rare. To a greater extent, the question concerns cutters that have many profile options, varieties or types of design.

Finding the right type can take too much time, so sometimes there are no other options other than making a cutter at home.

How to make a cutter

Milling cutter is a general name for a wide group of cutting tools. There are two main types:

There are many types of cutter designs used to perform different technological operations:

  • Whole.
  • Composite (prefabricated).
  • End.
  • End face.
  • Shaped.
  • With replaceable plates and others.

The production of cutting tools is a high-tech process that is demanding on the quality of the material. For example, the production of end mills consists of several stages:

  • Turning of a workpiece (shaping).
  • Milling teeth.
  • Processing of cutting edges (sharpening and backfilling).
  • Heat treatment of the material (hardening, tempering, other operations resulting in a high-quality metal structure).

To manufacture other varieties, similar or other operations are performed, determined by the type and design of the tool. Homemade cutters are only modifications of ready-made samples.

Attention! The manufacturing technology of cutting tools is complex and requires the use of precise equipment. At home, production “from scratch” is impossible; only processing of the finished tool, changing its shape or size is available.

The need to use one type or another, to obtain a certain profile or size of the cutting organ, forces you to decide the issue yourself. Let's look at how to make a cutter with your own hands at home.

Homemade wood cutters

Making a wood cutter with your own hands is possible if you have the appropriate workpiece and a machine where it will be installed. At home, an electric drill or a hand-held milling machine is usually used. The most affordable option is to change the shape of a regular metal drill, but other methods can also be used.

Let's look at how to make a wood cutter from a drill. Depending on the purpose of the tool, you will need a workpiece (metal drill) of a certain size. If you plan to manufacture a shaped cutter, then the diameter of the workpiece must be equal to the maximum diameter of the final product. Manufacturing consists of two stages:

  • Giving a profile.
  • Creating a shank.

Both operations require the use of industrial equipment. In any case, a lathe will be required to make the shank. The hand router collet is designed for a diameter of 8 mm (there are options for 6 and 7 mm). Therefore, for large drill diameters, the shank should be prepared before creating the profile.

This will eliminate beating, which is dangerous when processing wood. The easiest way to create a profile is by grinding. First you need to make a template, according to which you need to constantly check the status of the profile.

To work, you will need a grinding machine (emery), a grinder or a cutting wheel mounted in the chuck of an electric drill.

To create replacement plates for the milling head, either ready-made samples are used, which are given the desired shape, or blanks made of high-quality metal. The profile is created by grinding on a machine at hand.

The final operation is backing. This is the process of setting a specific cutting edge angle to ensure that the back of the edge does not contact the workpiece.

Important! Backing is a rather labor-intensive process, but necessary; it is the only thing that gives the cutter the ability to work normally.

DIY metal cutter

Making cutters for metal at home is limited to regrinding existing tools, changing the profile or diameter of the cutting part. More active intervention will require the use of industrial equipment, as it will be necessary to perform complex procedures:

  • Tempering of metal (a procedure reverse to hardening).
  • Machining, including shaping, sharpening, backing).
  • Hardening the cutter.

It is almost impossible to carry out these actions efficiently at home. In addition, work of this kind requires considerable professional training and experience, which not everyone has. Therefore, they are limited to only available procedures that involve minor intervention in the original state of the workpiece.

Making cutting tools at home requires the necessary equipment and suitable workpieces. In addition, you must have skills and experience, otherwise you can end up with a very dangerous product that can ruin the surface being processed and harm the craftsman himself. It is not recommended for an untrained person to carry out such work; it is better to seek help from a specialist.

Source: http://pro-instrument.com/ruchnoj/freza-svoimi-rukami.html

Wood crown – what is it, what is it used for, comparison with a ballerina, selection rules

The ring cutting method is used in cases where it is necessary to obtain a hole of a certain size in some material. A ring attachment that fits onto a drill, or a wood bit, is a device used by craftsmen for drilling in wood.

What is a wood crown?

A spray-coated attachment for processing plywood, chipboard, plastic, metal - a well-known device called a crown for drilling wood and other materials. It looks like a bowl with teeth located along the edge of the rim.

It is put on a special drill chuck and rotates thanks to the power tool. The depth of the hole can vary, from a few millimeters to several centimeters.

The number of teeth on it depends on the diameter of the cutter: the larger the wood crown, the greater the number of teeth on it. A typical set of ring nozzle is equipped with the following elements:

  • head with cutting teeth;
  • shank;
  • central drill.

Why do you need a wood crown?

A ring attachment for a drill, with which you can easily drill a hole of any diameter, is widely used in repair work.

A well-sharpened professional wood crown for socket boxes allows you to get neat recesses in walls, drywall, and wooden structures of the required size.

A clean cut with a smooth inner surface without chips or burrs can be made using this attachment. There is no need to center the surface before drilling; sawing occurs quickly and quietly.

Is it possible to drill into metal with a wood crown?

A core drill does an excellent job of its main task - drilling holes. Experts confirm that it can be used to process not only wood.

A crown for holes in wood, made of special grades of coated steel, is capable of processing more durable materials. With its help it is easy and simple to make a hole in non-ferrous metals of any hardness.

When planning to work with complex materials, you should choose a drill with HCS markings; such a crown for hard wood and metal can easily cope with any task.

What is better: a wood crown or a ballerina?

Disputes continue in the furniture-making community about which tool to give preference to: a hole cutter or a ballerina jig. This wood core drill cuts a hole thanks to two sharply sharpened plates. By adjusting the distance between them, you can get a recess of any size.

The main difference between the devices is that the crowns have a fixed size, and with the help of a ballerina you can drill a hole of any diameter. There is no definite answer which is better, it all depends on the specific type of work.

When carving wood, a ballerina is best, and it is more convenient to drill holes in ceramics with a coated crown.

How to choose a crown for wood?

Crowns designed for working with wood are easy to distinguish from others. They are painted black and made from metal alloys. A set of wood crowns looks like a device consisting of several cutting blades that can be replaced.

Unlike a fixed cutter, such a tool does not always produce a high-quality cut. The harder the surface that needs to be drilled, the lower the drill speed should be.

A wood inlaid crown differs in performance, which depends on several parameters:

  • cutter material;
  • tooth sharpening forms;
  • number of teeth.

Wood crown sizes

The standard size of the socket box is 6.8 cm. Any set of ring cutters has a suitable attachment.

In addition to this, many craftsmen use large-diameter wood crowns to drill a variety of technological and decorative holes.

The size of the shank depends on the size of the device itself; for holes less than 65 mm in diameter it is recommended to use a shank of about 19 mm, for large recesses - from 3 cm. The following sizes of crowns are considered the most popular:

  • 20 mm;
  • 65 mm;
  • 100 mm;
  • 110 mm;
  • 120 mm;
  • 127 mm;
  • 130 mm;
  • 150 mm.

Ready-made sets of ring drills are reliable and safe. The TOP of the best models of adjustable crowns for wood is as follows.

  1. The drilling set “Bison 29554-H15_z01” consists of 15 items, the diameter of the bits varies from 1.9 to 12.7 mm. The centering drill is made of durable HSS steel. The set copes with different types of materials - wood, plastic, chipboard, plasterboard.
  2. “MATRIX 70472” – bimetallic wood crowns made of carbon steel, in a convenient case for storage and carrying. The set is completed with two holders and a centering drill, the maximum diameter of the bit is 2.8 mm.
  3. “Bosch 2609255634” - the model is compatible with any type of drill. The diameter of the holes that can be drilled using drills is from 46 to 81 mm. The wood bit provides a drilling depth of up to 3.1 cm, the weight of the set is only 500 g.

DIY wood crown

Any craftsman may encounter a situation where a drill of a suitable diameter is not at hand. For work that does not require high precision and accuracy, you can make a wood crown for a rosette yourself in a couple of hours. The list of materials is minimal: a metal pipe of the required diameter, a “fist” from a door hinge, a drill, a screw, a rectangular steel plate.

  1. In the “fist”, using a vice, you need to drill a hole corresponding to the diameter of the drill.
  2. On the side of the “fist”, at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge, another threaded hole should be made, intended for a fixing screw.
  3. Using a grinder, you need to make cuts along the edge of the pipe that imitate teeth.
  4. Weld a plate on the back of the pipe, in the center of which make a hole for the drill.
  5. To assemble the structure, a drill is inserted into the “fist” and secured with a screw. The lower part of the drill is placed in the crown, and the upper part is placed in the tool chuck (drill or screwdriver).

How to use wood crowns?

A core drill has the shape of a cylinder, one edge of which is made in the form of sharp teeth, and the other has a tip. A wood bit for a drill is essentially an attachment that can complement any hand tool.

The cutter must be installed in a special glass and secured with a nut. The drill, which is located in the very center of the crown, is designed to determine the exact location of the center of the hole and obtain a perfect cut.

If you follow the operating rules, any tools, including core drills, will last a long time.

How to sharpen a wood crown?

With active use, drills can become worn down and require sharpening. You can restore the sharpness of a wood drill bit yourself, but this will require certain skills. Maintaining the sharpening angle is an important point, without which it will not be possible to properly restore the functionality of the drill. Core drills for wood are made of soft metals, and they can be restored using hand tools and tools, for this the following are used:

  1. Grinder with a special grinding disc.
  2. Hand drill with sandpaper disc.
  3. Sharpener or emery machine.

Source: https://womanadvice.ru/koronka-po-derevu-chto-eto-takoe-dlya-chego-ispolzuetsya-sravnenie-s-balerinkoy-pravila-vybora

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