How to sharpen ice ax knives

Do ceramic knives require sharpening: how to sharpen blades

They say that knives cannot be given as gifts. A friend gave me a ceramic knife. She said that this was not a gift, but just like that. I couldn’t be happy alone when I received such a knife from my aunt.

I continued our “mini-flash mob”: on occasion, I ran to my sister and grabbed her a sharp ceramic knife. I told her how easily they could cut literally anything!

A week later, my sister called to clarify whether neither I nor my friend had sharpened knives. And is it necessary to sharpen them at all? In order to answer her and know for myself how to properly handle this ceramic product, I decided to study this issue.

Advantages of a ceramic knife

I won’t even talk about how a dull knife irritates a housewife - you know that yourself. This was probably one of the reasons for the popularity of knives made from special materials. Of course, this is not the same clay ceramics that is used to make tableware. Rather, it is the material that dentists work with.

Reference. The basis of ceramic instruments is zirconium dioxide. Hot sintering of zirconium powder produces a super-strong material from which blades are made.

Amazing strength is not their only advantage.

• This blade will not rust or be scratched . Products retain their quality appearance and properties when interacting with different products.
• The smooth surface is easy to clean . Caring for a knife does not cause housewives any problems.
• The weight of the tool is small , but this does not affect its strength.
• Knives are sold sharply sharpened. They retain their sharpness for a long time , making it easy to cut products of any structure and density.

Do ceramic knives need to be sharpened?

Of course, every housewife had sharp blades at home even before a Japanese company began producing them from zirconium alloy in 1985. True, most of them became dull rather quickly and required sharpening.

Zirconium blades stay sharp much longer. This raises questions: will it always be like this or will they also have to be sharpened?

Reference. Tools made of zirconium ceramics do not require sharpening for 1–2 years. However, the blade gradually becomes dull, like other knives.

So, dear housewives, you won’t be able to do without sharpening at all, you’ll have to sharpen it! However, processing a zirconium blade has its own characteristics.

What to sharpen

To make it clear that special handling is a necessity, you need to pay attention to one more quality of the tool. He's fragile! Yes, yes, despite all the strength of the knife, its blade is easy to damage . Therefore, sharpening requires knowledge and skills.

Reference. When processing, you should maintain the existing sharpening of the blade: single-sided or double-sided.

And one more important detail is the degree of inclination of the edge of the blade. Excessive grinding can cause the sharp edge to become brittle.

To a woman

If you have to restore the sharpness of a kitchen tool yourself, you will have to take care of an assistant. In the absence of a man who can be entrusted with an important task, a lady can only entrust sharpening to a sharpener - electric or manual.

Reference . An electric sharpener will ensure high-quality processing of the blade. She herself will determine the desired angle of inclination, quickly and efficiently complete the work.

A woman only needs to insert the knife and turn on the sharpener. It is better to perform actions following the instructions.

Working with a manual model differs only in the need to use physical force. And, of course, it will take more time.

To a man

Attempts to sharpen a tool by hand are best left to men. They can do this using different means.

Probably, we could do without this part of the text: it’s useless to give hints to a “armless” man; he’ll ruin something anyway. And the “handy one” knows everything himself and can give advice. Therefore, we will simply list what can be used to treat a zirconium surface.

Reference . To sharpen a ceramic blade, manufacturers recommend using diamond-coated tools or surfaces.

In addition to mechanical and electric sharpeners, there are several other options suitable for the job:

• electric sandpaper;
• diamond paste;
• diamond block;
• diamond-coated machine.

Get started if you already have similar experience. If not, practice with regular steel blades. Take the ceramic ones to a special workshop. Or buy a sharpener. It can be useful to several families at once, so you can purchase it by paying for the purchase together.

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Source: https://setafi.com/posuda/nuzhno-li-tochit-keramicheskie-nozhi/

Tool for emery and knife sharpening

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Regardless of what guarantee the knife manufacturer gives that they will not require sharpening during use, sooner or later this question will still arise before the user.

It doesn’t matter whether this applies to kitchen utensils or camping accessories, because... A sharp knife is the key to success in fishing and hunting, while traveling and when cooking.

Devices for sharpening knives - types and rules of use, as well as how to make them yourself - this is the topic of today's review by the editors of HomeMyHome.ru.

The simplest device for sharpening a cutting tool is a block, and the device for its use is a clamp for the angle of the surface being sharpened

Types of devices for sharpening knives

Devices for sharpening knives can be classified according to the following indicators:

• by type of abrasive material used - whetstones and sharpening stones;
• by type of drive of abrasive materials - manual machines and devices, as well as those equipped with an electric drive;
• by type of use - for home or professional use.

Whetstones and whetstones

A whetstone (sharpening stone) is an abrasive tool used for sharpening the cutting edges of household appliances and kitchen utensils, carpentry and plumbing tools.

The industry produces bars of different types and with different grain sizes.

The industry produces four types of stones for sharpening knives:

• natural – novaculite and Japanese water stone, which are expensive and difficult to use;
• Diamond – the most popular type of products, differs in variety both in geometric dimensions and grain size. They are characterized by wear resistance and efficiency of use, as well as low cost;
• ceramic - a modern type of sharpening tool, characterized by a combination of the positive qualities of natural and diamond analogues;
• artificial - well-known types of electrocorundum or carbide, they are low in cost, but during use they crumble and are not suitable for finishing cutting edges.

The type of bar used, as well as its size and grain size, is selected by the user independently, in accordance with the need for the quality of the processing performed.

Hand tools

This category includes manual machines for sharpening knives, as well as musat.

Almost everyone knows what musat is, but many don’t even suspect that this is the name of this product. The reason for this is that musat, as a rule, comes with sets of knives offered for sale through trade organizations.

Musat is a rod made of various materials, equipped with a handle and characterized by the roughness of the working surface.

Musats vary in geometric shape and types of materials used in production

The roughness of the drawing is the size of the notch applied to the rod, and it is this that determines the degree of roughness of the cutting surface of the knife after processing. The musat is equipped with a rod that has a certain degree of magnetization, which ensures that metal particles formed during use reach food and kitchen utensils. Musats are classified according to:

• rod shape - round and oval, flat and tetrahedral;
• materials used - ceramics and metal, diamond and mixed designs.

Each type has certain advantages and disadvantages that determine the possibilities of using the device and its purpose.

Using musat, you can easily straighten a knife blade right in the kitchen, almost without interrupting your cooking.

Household manual sharpening machines for sharpening knives vary in their design, but in any of them a whetstone or whetstone acts as the main element. The impact of the abrasive tool on the cutting surface is carried out using the efforts exerted by the user.

The main task performed by a manual machine is to create and maintain an optimal sharpening angle of cutting edges for the entire period of work, which is achieved by rigidly fixing the knife in a given plane.

The industry produces various models of such equipment, differing in size and methods of fastening abrasives and processed knives, as well as the materials used and cost.

Manual machine model “Chefs Choice 415”

Manual knife sharpeners can be used not only as home equipment, they are also successfully used by professionals. The only difference between models for household and professional use is their cost, which depends on the type of abrasive materials that guarantee the quality and speed of sharpening.

Professional and household knife sharpeners equipped with an electric drive

The presence of an electric drive greatly simplifies the process of using knife sharpening devices, this applies to both models for home use and professional use.

Electric sharpening machine using artificial abrasive wheels

Distinctive features of models for various types of use are:

• the value of electrical power - for a professional tool it is greater, and for household models it is less;
• period of use – determines the ability of the machine to operate without stopping (PV-on);
• overall dimensions and method of fastening (installation) on the working surface of a table or other piece of furniture;
• type and sizes of abrasive available for use on a specific model;
• functionality – the ability to sharpen knives of various types (kitchen, cutting mechanisms and devices, scissors, etc.).

Electric sharpener “Chefs Choice” model “CH/220” for universal use

Household electric sharpeners do not take up much space and are very functional, because... their design, as a rule, provides for different fixed sharpening angles for different types of knives and other cutting tools (scissors, screwdrivers, etc.).

The ability to quickly and efficiently sharpen the cutting edges of knives is very important for catering establishments, where the speed and quality of cooking depends on sharpening.

Professional knife sharpening machines are functional devices equipped with high-quality abrasive tools that allow not only rough sharpening, but also fine-tuning the cutting edges of knives for various purposes.

The “Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition” electric sharpener can be used by professionals even in an ordinary apartment.

Professional models, in addition, as a rule, have several operating modes that allow sharpening with different efficiency, necessary for knives made of different metals or ceramics.

How to properly sharpen a knife at home

Everyone knows that a knife must be sharp, and for this it needs to be sharpened, but how to do it correctly is often not known to every user. It should be noted right away that in order to carry out the work correctly it is necessary:

• Know the sharpening angles for each type of knives and other cutting tools.
• Be able to work on a variety of equipment or using available tools.

Sharpening angle of knives for various purposes

For knives used for various purposes, the sharpening angles of the cutting edges are different, which is determined by their purpose and nature of use.

Angles of sharpening, bevels and micro-approaches - on a cross-section of a knife blade

This value is for:

• table knives - 55–60˚, because ready-made dishes are quite soft and cut easily; moreover, with a smaller sharpening angle, there is a possibility of damaging the dishes during eating;
• hunting and folding models – 40−45˚, which is explained by their versatility;
• kitchen knives – 30−35˚;
• used for professional cutting of vegetables - 35˚;
• used for professional cutting and deboning of meat – 25−30˚;
• used for professional fish cutting - 25˚.

Some types of knives are sharpened with different sharpening angles, such as those intended for slicing bread (the angle is 15˚), but this is a narrowly targeted use in which sharpening must be done quite often, because with a decrease in this indicator, the durability of the cutting edges decreases.

Sharpening a kitchen knife using a whetstone

How to sharpen a knife at home with a whetstone

In order to properly sharpen a knife using a whetstone, you must follow several rules for performing the work:

• it is necessary to select the optimal sharpening angle corresponding to the purpose of the knife;
• the blade must be positioned in relation to the plane of the block strictly within the specified sharpening angle parameters for the entire period of work;
• Sharp and jerky movements should not be allowed, they should be smooth and sliding;
• When performing work, the block should be moistened generously with water diluted with soap or detergent.

How to sharpen using musat

The process of sharpening a knife using musat is shown in the following figure.

Sharpening a knife with musat

The work is carried out as follows:

• The musat is installed on a flat surface strictly in a vertical plane;
• the upper part of the device is combined with the sharpened edge of the knife near its handle, after which the knife moves along the rod of the grinder in an arcuate movement directed from top to bottom;
• the movements are repeated several times on both edges of the knife.

I would like to note that experienced users can perform this operation in weight, without rigidly fixing the rod of the device used.

How to properly sharpen a knife on an electric sharpener

When using models equipped with an electric drive, the basic requirements for performing the work to ensure proper sharpening are the same as in the case of using a whetstone or whetstone.

Sharpening cutting edges on a sharpening machine using a device that provides the required sharpening angle

But, besides this, there are additional requirements that can be formulated as follows:

• It is not the abrasive that should be moistened with water, but the surface of the knife being processed, which is explained by the fact that water is not retained on a rapidly rotating wheel;
• the blade must not be allowed to overheat, which can lead to its damage, which occurs when the edges being processed are strongly pressed against the abrasive surface;
• to rigidly fix the sharpening angle, additional devices can be used that are mounted rigidly to the body of the sharpening machine or are in the user’s hands;
• When working on industrial sharpening machines, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment, such as gloves and safety glasses.

Source: https://vi-pole.ru/prisposoba-dlja-nazhdaka-zatochka-nozha.html

How to sharpen a knife with sandpaper

Recently, a large number of disputes and questions have arisen on such a topic as sharpening a knife with sandpaper. Connoisseurs of natural stones consider this some kind of perversion. But as soon as you start an argument with them, ask a few questions about physical processes head-on, in the end it turns out that there are no special differences. There are only solutions to one problem that are different in technology.

But let's look at this issue from the financial side, which is very important in modern realities.

High-quality natural stones have a more than decent price, and for good sharpening you will need a “good” set. Considering that the most modest and small set contains 5-6 stones, the total cost is about 8-10 thousand rubles. And if, by an absurd accident, it turns out to be gold, the pebble will fall and shatter into pieces, which does not happen so rarely. “Mere mortals” have the feeling that you have dropped an expensive porcelain vase that is 200 years old.

Another, not very pleasant, side of the coin is that no one can give you a guarantee that stones even from the same batch have the same characteristics; usually this value is highly averaged. This situation is due precisely to the processes of extraction and sale of natural stones. It turns out to be a kind of roulette. Artificial stones will prevail here at almost the same price.

Sandpaper does not have both of these disadvantages. Just think about how much sandpaper you can take for just the cost of one pebble and achieve exactly the same “mirror” performance over a much longer period of time.

Features of working with sandpaper

One of the main features of working with sandpaper is the method of its application. The skin is mainly used attached to a block. Making such a unit is quite simple. First you need to cut a block of the required size for comfortable sharpening. Then we cut the sandpaper to the size of the block and glue it to it with any available glue. Due to their roughness, both surfaces connect perfectly. No more manipulations are required; after 15 minutes we get to work.

Sharpening a knife with sandpaper.

Another feature of working with sandpaper is its aggressive metal removal at the first stages of use. Due to the peculiar way the abrasive grains are fixed to the substrate, they fly off the sandpaper much faster, as a result of which part of the abrasive becomes clogged with shavings and becomes greasy. Therefore, after 10 minutes of work, a 500 grit sandpaper can already polish the surface.

Table of sandpaper standards: markings and grit

GOST R 52381-2005 (Russia)	Grain size (µm)	Purpose
Coarse-grained
P22	800-1000	Roughing
P24	630-800
P36	500-630
P40	400-500	Rough woodwork
P46	315-400
P60	250-315
P80	200-250	Primary grindingSmoothing the surfaceRemoving small irregularities
P90	160-200
P100	125-160
P120	100-125
P150	80-100	Preparing hard wood for sandingFinal sanding of soft woodSanding old paint for painting
P180	63-80
Fine-grained
P240	50-63	Final sanding of hardwood Sanding between coats
P280	40-50
P400	28-40	Polishing final coatsSanding before paintingWet sanding
P600	20-28
P1000	14-20	Grinding of metal, plastics, ceramicsWet grinding
P1200	10-14	Even finer grinding, polishing Removing gloss, stains, micro-scratches
P1500	7-10
P2000	5-7
P2500	3-5

Device for sharpening knives with sandpaper

Using sandpaper, as already mentioned, without attaching it to some hard surface is very inconvenient. There are many different options for how to make a device for sharpening with sandpaper, but we will look at one of the most convenient and outwardly beautiful manufacturing methods. Using a set of similar units, you can even sharpen razors.

Necessary materials

The main idea of ​​​​manufacturing such a “device” is to attach emery to ceramic tiles. As a result, we will get something like a budget version of a reusable sharpening stone, since it is very easy to change the paper on it.

We will need:

• solvent (acetone is possible);
• spray adhesive;
• sheets of sandpaper of the required grain size;
• a piece of fabric (we use old things);
• rubber “bumpers”;
• smooth ceramic tiles (we select the quantity based on our own needs).

Types of sandpaper.

Sandpaper can easily be found at any automotive or hardware store. The minimum set should consist of sheets with grits of 800, 1000 and 2000.

To assemble the device, you need the longest pieces of abrasive you can find and the smoothest tile that fits the size of the paper.

Preparation and Cleaning

It is advisable to carry out this stage of work indoors; a workshop would be an excellent option. Take a rag, soak it in acetone and wipe the tiles with it. We clean all the dust from it and let the solvent dry on its own.

Remember: do not leave an open bottle of acetone in a closed room and ventilate the room after finishing work.

Attach the sandpaper

The next step, observing safety precautions, is to spray the adhesive. We process the surface of the tile and the back of the paper, then press them tightly against each other.

Try to immediately position the paper based on your preferences: it can be placed clearly in the center, leaving the edges of the tile bare, or it can be moved to one of the sides. After attaching, remove the adhesive remaining on the tile using acetone.

For greater reliability, you can press down the paper with some heavy weight, the main thing is to make sure that it does not stick to it. After two hours of waiting, you can proceed to sharpening.

One of the ways to attach sandpaper for sharpening a knife.

conclusions

Friendly advice: to increase the comfort of use, you can attach rubber strips to each tile along the edges so that you can safely stack them on top of each other, and the “bumper” will also prevent the device from sliding during operation.

If the sandpaper has become unusable, you can easily replace it: tear off the paper from the tile, treat the surface with acetone and a rag, and repeat everything again.

To have a minimal set for sharpening kitchen and household tools on hand, you will need no more than 1000 rubles, and this is with regular use for a whole year.

As mentioned earlier, 800, 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper covers 90% of all sharpening operations and will be the most used. Larger grits can be used to sharpen thin blades, razors and, if desired, obtain a mirror-like result.

A smaller grain size will only be needed in the case of restoring a damaged, completely rusty knife.

Source: https://VashNozh.ru/zatochka/natochit-nozh-nazhdachnoj-bumagoj

Sharpening for ice drill knives - Fishing Season

Even before the onset of the first frosts, many fans of winter and ice fishing, both with impressive experience and those just starting out, are wondering about purchasing a convenient and high-quality ice auger. After all, without this tool, fishing in winter is unthinkable.

What to consider when choosing it:

• Firstly, this is the diameter of the auger, the main part with which the hole is drilled. It all depends on what kind of fish you plan to catch. For medium-sized fish, roach, perch, small pike, an auger with a diameter of 90-100 mm is suitable. For fish such as white bream, bream, large pike and pike perch, we choose an auger of 120 mm or more.
• Secondly, there must be a reliable connecting node (elbow). When purchasing, you should check the possibility of future play in assembled, working condition.
• Thirdly, the direction of rotation of the ice drill, clockwise or counterclockwise. This is a matter of habit or convenience for each person.

Be sure to visually determine the quality of the weld at the junction of the auger with the tubular part of the ice auger, in order to check for poor quality workmanship. Otherwise, the auger with knives may remain in the ice when drilling.

The quality of the paint used to process the instrument is also important. If it peels off quickly, then the adhered snow and icing will complicate the process.

And the most important thing is the quality of the tool’s knives.

When purchasing, it is worth inspecting the working (cutting) part for thermal lines, which indicates non-compliance with maintaining the temperature regime during factory sharpening.

Such steel is already considered unsuitable for use for drilling holes in ice.

Types of Ice Pick Knives

The cutting part is made according to accepted international standards, from steel grades R18, R9, R12, R6M5K5 and hardness from 62 to 72 HRC units.

Special cold hardening gives the knives the desired properties, such as:

• Protection against breakage and deformation;
• Impact resistance;
• Resistance to dampness;
• The ability to periodically sharpen them yourself.

They are divided into several types according to the type of cutting part and are universal in use:

• With two straight edges (requires caution when completing drilling, as “biting” often occurs at the exit);
• With a rounded edge (suitable for wet, sticky ice);
• With a stepped edge (more designed for strong, “dry” ice);
• With serrated edge (for loose and damp ice);
• Triangular in shape with three cutting edges (rarely common type of knives, claimed to be suitable for all types of ice).

Over time, with use, the knives will definitely become dull. Due to the hardness of the ice, sand and small pebbles contained in it. On the spot, while fishing, you can temporarily sharpen them, having with you an ordinary sharpening stone or a needle file. But this must be done thoroughly with a special tool. There are two options: mechanical sharpening on a machine and manually.

Sharpening on a machine

One way is an electric sharpener. Naturally, for this, you must have experience working on it. Otherwise, this method is unacceptable, as you can simply damage the cutting edge. For those who are familiar with this equipment first-hand, let’s consider the main stages.

First of all, there must be a special device (corner stand) for installing the part to be sharpened at a certain angle. This will allow you to remove a minimum amount of metal and avoid distortion of the cutting edge chamfer:

1. Manually, using a file or an abrasive stone, we remove small chips formed during the drilling process. If the chip depth is more than 2 mm, it should be cut into the shape of a tooth and sharpened.
2. We fix the knife, with the long, working side, in a corner stand and set the angle to 30°. Carefully bring it to the desired state.
3. Turn the part over with the short cutting edge. The angle between these two edges should be close to 90°. Due to this, the “biting” factor during drilling will be reduced.
4. During processing, the part should be periodically cooled by immersing it in water or oil.
5. After the main processing, you should polish the knife using a felt wheel and GOI paste. This is required for faster and cleaner drilling. The rotation speed should be about 3000 rpm.
6. First we polish the surface of the knife directed towards the ice.
7. Next, we polish the upper part, with the obligatory approach to the cutting edge. This will improve the cutting angle and increase the service life.
8. Knives prepared in this way can then be very easily sharpened by hand, right during fishing.

How to increase your fish catch?

Over 7 years of active fishing, I have found dozens of ways to improve the bite. Here are the most effective ones:

1. Bite activator . This pheromone additive attracts fish most strongly in cold and warm water. Discussion of the bite activator “Hungry Fish”.
2. Increased gear sensitivity. Read the appropriate manuals for your specific type of gear.
3. Pheromone -based lures .

Sharpening knives by hand

The most common option for sharpening is at home, by hand. There are several varieties of this action:

• On an abrasive stone;
• Using sandpaper;
• Using glass and GOI paste.

Let's consider each type:

Sharpening with an abrasive stone

To do this, you will need the “correct stone”, carborundum, with wide working surfaces. The grain size should be fine or medium, corresponding to the markings of H4-H6 sandpaper.

When purchasing, be sure to check it for potholes on wide surfaces and chips along the edges. The service life of such a stone is enough to process 15-20 sets of blades.

Subsequently, its working plane ceases to be level and it is not possible to sharpen the knives correctly.

Sharpening process:

• We fix the block by placing it on a sheet of rubber , or using double-sided tape to prevent slipping during the process.
• We remove burrs. To do this, place the knife with a wide plane on the stone, and, pressing lightly, make 15-20 circular movements. If there is no severe deformation, this will be immediately visible in the grinding pattern; the finishing process is completed.
• Sharpening. Turning the cutting edge towards the stone, we also make circular movements with gentle and uniform pressure. Upon visual inspection, the marks from the abrasive stone should be located evenly over the entire surface.
• We use paper to test the sharpness of the blade. The knife should cut the paper easily and evenly.

Sharpening with sandpaper

This is almost the same method as described above, since the same abrasive is used, only applied to a paper or textile base. But due to the “wave” feature of sandpaper when moving along the surface, the result will be somewhat worse. Can be used when removing chips.

Glass and GOI paste

These are also a kind of abrasives, only very small ones. It will take a lot of time and patience to sharpen the blades, but the results will be very good.

It is important to remember that knives are placed on ice augers only in pairs, new with new, re-sharpened with the same. When straightening knives on the spot, if you are “lucky enough” to land on sand in the ice, without removing them, we make straightening movements only along the cutting surface, away from you – downwards. But the houses will still have to be re-sharpened.

When sharpening, you can use various types of diamond-coated needle files. You should be careful here, because unlike the methods described above, where the entire working surface is processed at once, the needle file only covers a small area of ​​it.

Accordingly, the straight line of the blade may be disrupted, which can lead to its breakage when drilling a hole.

We looked at the most common methods of sharpening knives for straight-shaped ice drills. It is also worth considering the options for sharpening the so-called “Swedes”, which have a curved cutting part.

Here, too, there are two options: manual and mechanical sharpening:

• For manual processing you need: a small vice, strips of abrasive paper H4 - H6, 3-4 cm wide and a semicircular file. By moving towards yourself, while simultaneously changing the angle of the file, with the “skin” mounted on it, we carefully straighten the cutting part of the knife. Based on the risks from the abrasive, we determine the thoroughness of the processing. Sharpness test, also checked by cutting paper.
• Having at hand a small, manual machine designed for polishing, grinding and milling work, it is very easy and quick to bring the cutting part to perfect condition. Take a burr that follows the shape of the blade or an abrasive mini-disc. The part is clamped in a vice, the part being processed, for a better view of the work done, is painted over with a felt-tip pen and carefully brought to the desired state.

Blitz tips

• The range of ice drills offered on the Russian market is amazingly diverse. And to choose “yours,” you need to be guided by the principles of ease of use (direction of rotation, material of handles), reliability of both its working part (knives), and the entire tool as a whole (connecting elbow, options for attaching knives to the auger).
• An important factor for choosing is the price. If opportunities permit and you purchase a foreign-made ice drill, then you will have a manual “drilling rig” in your hands. The variable angle of attack along the cutting edge will allow you to reach the water through the ice in a matter of minutes. High-alloy steel used for knives allows them not to be sharpened during the fishing season.
• Domestic drills made of titanium are light and convenient, but have flat blades. So, there are always options to choose from, both for novice fishermen who are just yet to try them out and, based on their experience, decide on the purchase of an ice drill that is convenient for them, as well as for experienced winter fishing enthusiasts.

0.00, (ratings: 0) Poachers who caught 317 kg of fish were not punished

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Category: regional news.

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Source: http://srybalki.ru/zatochka-dlya-nozhej-ledoburov.html

Sharpening drill knives

Winter fishing is impossible without a tool such as an ice screw. Gone are those dark times when a fisherman had to wield an ax for a long time and gruelingly in order to form a hole - a window into the world of the under-ice kingdom. Having a special tool will help you save effort and also get the hole you need in terms of size and fishing characteristics.

Its beauty also lies in the fact that it can perform its work under any conditions related to the thickness and condition of the ice in record time. But even this universal tool has certain variations associated with the following parameters:

• ice auger diameter. There is an unspoken rule - the smaller the diameter of the drill, the easier it is to work with;
• tool length. It is of enormous importance in places where the ice thickness reaches 60 cm. For such fishing, it would be wise to choose the longest drill of all those presented and acquire special attachments;
• overall quality. This parameter depends on the country in which the ice auger was produced and with what technologies. The main things from this perspective will be the ability of the materials used to corrode (after all, we are talking about fishing, which means you can’t do without water, even frozen water), the smooth rotation of the handles, as well as the sharpness and reliability of the knife blades. The technical capabilities of drills produced in different countries depend precisely on these characteristics, as well as on the angles and features of the installation of knives, as the main driving force in the drilling procedure.

Opportunities and problems of ice axes

Having made an irrevocable decision for yourself to go winter fishing, you should carefully select the necessary arsenal of tools, and especially think about which drill will be useful in your work. His choice will depend on the following factors:

• what kind of fish are you going for? The logic is simple - if you plan to fish for large fish, then a drill with a slightly larger diameter is needed (simply so that the catch can get to the surface), but if you expect a small perch weighing up to 700 grams, then an ice drill with a diameter of 90 mm will suffice;
• fishing style. If it is known that the fisherman will drill a large number of holes, then it is better to purchase an ice drill of small diameter, without contradicting the first factor;
• company manufacturer. Some prefer brand companies, recognized authorities in the world of manufacturing such instruments, while others are not averse to going with a domestic product. However, the differences do not end only with names. Manufacturers have different approaches to the manufacture of drills, and, consequently, the results are different.

Domestic drills have good technical characteristics, but in their manufacture they use straight knives. This means that the area of ​​problem-free application is limited. They work well in dry ice conditions, but with wet and multi-layer ice they will jam a lot. The situation is corrected with the help of all kinds of pads, but not all fishermen can cope with such difficulties.

Scandinavian manufacturers of ice drills are widely known, of which Sweden especially stands out. These tools have one characteristic feature - the use of spherical knives on installations. Such a drill is rightfully considered a universal one, because it is not afraid of any thickness of ice; it can cope with both wet and dry surfaces.

The disadvantages are not only the significant cost of the tool, but also the difficulty of independently sharpening the knives used. If a domestic drill can be sharpened at home without any problems, then a Swedish drill, as a rule, is sent to a special service.

However, this does not mean that self-repair is impossible; you just need to know a few secrets.

How to sharpen auger knives with straight knives

Although this is much easier than poring over the rounded shapes of the blade, this does not mean that such a procedure should be treated negligently.

It should be borne in mind that it will not be possible to sharpen such knives with a file, due to the increased hardness of the steel or titanium used. Therefore, sharpening of drill knives should be carried out with an abrasive material, preferably fine-grained.

Its shape is not of fundamental importance, the main thing is that it ensures smooth horizontal operation.

The sharpening material should be placed on the table and get to work. First you need to process the non-working surface of the knife blade through several smooth movements on the abrasive material. Next, you should select the required degree of angle at which all further sharpening of the blade will be carried out.

As you know, the angle in the process of sharpening knives is a marginal indicator.

Regarding drills, there is the following trend: if the ratio of sharpening angles is slightly different from 90°, then such a drill will have a longer service life, but its scope of application will be limited to ice with a soft consistency.

If the angle is significantly less than stated, then such a drill will literally bite into the surface of the ice, but due to this it will deteriorate faster. Therefore, the main thing here is moderation in the ratio of sharpening angles.

It is better to look at the correct position of the knife when sharpening in a special photo or video, the clarity of which will prevent you from making a fatal mistake.

For uniform sharpening, it is better to make circular movements. As soon as traces of abrasive appear on the cutting edge, the process can be considered complete. After this, all that remains is to install the knives in the installation and enjoy the results of your labors.

Sharpening spherical knives

Things are not so rosy with these drills. Many fishermen were faced with a situation where, after independent efforts, spherical knives became completely unusable, and they had to acquire new ones.

Considering that the period of trouble-free operation is 1-2 seasons, this is not such a tragedy for all users, even despite the cost.

The problem is aggravated by the fact that this allotted period may be shortened when a working drill encounters sand, then it will have to be sharpened immediately.

Knives for this type of drill are according to the traditional principle. The difference is that sandpaper called zero is used as an abrasive material. Since these are spherical knives, it is necessary to set the appropriate bend to ensure uniform and accurate sharpening. To do this, you can use a stack of soft magazines placed on your lap, or you can use an ordinary glass jar; a one and a half liter jar will be enough.

Sandpaper is placed on it and you can begin the process. In order to understand exactly how sharpening of drill knives will be carried out correctly, you can watch a special video, which shows that the required sharpening angle is achieved by firmly pressing the knife onto the paper and smoothly moving it towards you. In this case, the knife is sharpened only according to the original factory sharpening; the back side of the blade cannot be touched.

The sandpaper must be constantly shifted so that each new movement occurs on an unaffected area of ​​the paper. To achieve an ideal result, it may take up to 15 minutes of painstaking work, after which the drill will cut ice no worse than the one you just purchased. Sharpness is checked using a standard paper cutting test applicable to all types of knives.

Source: https://knife.adstores.ru/article/zatochka-nozhey-bura

Sharpening knives for ice drills at home, the best ways - Website about

Well-sharpened ice drill blades allow you to quickly create holes in the thick ice shell of various bodies of water. However, during operation, the knives gradually become dull and soon they will no longer cut ice well. This is why they need to be sharpened, but there are different options for sharpening, which is why many fishermen have difficulty with this.

Contacting a master is undoubtedly good, but such a service is expensive, so sharpening knives at home is the best way. In this article we will tell you in detail what options there are for sharpening an ice drill.

For any fisherman who prefers winter fishing, an ice auger is considered a source of pride. Sometimes there are even competitions for quickly drilling holes on rivers.

And a young fisherman with an expensive European ice auger does not always win; sometimes an elderly man with a Soviet ice auger can win. The reason lies not only in the correct setting of the blades, you also need to be able to sharpen them correctly.

Many novice fishermen, having purchased an imported ice ax, do not even think about the fact that the blades become dull with use.

• During the drilling process, fine sand and pebbles in the ice leave chips on the blade, so over time the effectiveness of the tool decreases.

Sharpening on a grinding machine

• An easy way of sharpening is considered to be processing on a grinding machine; sharpening an ice ax with your own hands in this case does not take much time.
• To do this, you will definitely need an angular stand for the workpiece; with its help you can securely clamp the blade and sharpen it.
• Try removing 1 millimeter of metal with the machine; if there are still chips on it, you will need to repeat the procedure.

It is advisable to sharpen correctly on the first try.

If you try several times, you will remove a lot of metal, which can cause the blade to break while using the ice drill.

Even if you know how to handle the machine well, this does not mean that burrs will not remain on the blade. Therefore, to complete the processing, you can polish the blade on a grinding stone.

Sharpening a Swedish ice screw

Every fisherman has probably heard about this ice drill; it creates a hole incredibly quickly and cuts the edge of the ice very well. The company that produces these ice screws is Mora; specialists have developed unique knives with a curve and different sharpening angles. Thanks to this feature, holes can be created very quickly.

But there is one drawback: when the knives become dull, many fishermen have a stupor, since the angle of the blade is different and they do not know how to sharpen it.

It’s really difficult to do this, but don’t buy a special device for sharpening an ice ax. It is better to sharpen it manually, in which case the sharpening error will be smaller; we will discuss this method below.

The blade should be firmly clamped in a vice, this will greatly simplify sharpening. Next, take some H6 grit sandpaper and a round file.

1. Cut the sandpaper into strips 3 centimeters wide, then take the strip and wrap the file around the edges, you need to secure it with wire.
2. Sharpening must be done with movements toward you, while maintaining the angle that was assigned to the blade at the factory.

Periodically you will need to change the sandpaper on the file. If you practice the sharpening movements, then next time you can sharpen the blade in 10-15 minutes.

We are sure that the article was useful for you, now you know why you need a grinding machine for sharpening ice axes and how you can sharpen the blade of an ice axle. We wish you success and be careful when sharpening!

Photo of sharpening an ice drill

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Source: https://delta29.ru/snaryazhenie/zatochka-nozhej-dlya-ledobura-v-domashnih-usloviyah-luchshie-sposoby.html