How to make a knife sharpener with your own hands

DIY budget knife sharpener

I offer an option for a simple and budget knife sharpener. This sharpener can be assembled almost from scrap materials.

Necessary materials:

The board is 20mm thick and measures 260x70mm.
Electrode with a diameter of 6mm or a rod 5-6mm in diameter.
Rod with a diameter of 8mm and a length of 570mm.
Wooden handle from an old tool. You can carve a wooden handle yourself with a knife.
Two corners with 8.5-9mm holes.
Spring with an internal diameter of 8.5-10mm.
Nut M10. -1 PC
Furniture nut M6 - 3 pieces
M5 screw - 1 piece
M6 bolt for hex key - 4 pcs
Wing nut M6 - 1 piece
Enlarged washer M6 - 1 piece
A small piece of laminate.
Sanding paper of different grits.
Textolite 3-5mm thick.

We make a knife sharpener.

We beat the electrode off the coating, clean it with sandpaper and bend it in the middle. This way we will get a stand for our knife sharpener.

Bent electrode.

We cut out a blank measuring 70x200mm from the board. It is not necessary to adhere to these dimensions, they are given as a guide only.

Drill two holes with a diameter of 6mm. We drill holes not perpendicular to the board, but at approximately an angle of 60-70 degrees. The device stand will be installed in these holes, so the distance between the holes must be selected according to the resulting stand.

Drill two holes for the stand.

We drill 3 holes with a diameter of 8mm to attach the pressure plate. We drill these holes perpendicular to the board.

Drill 3 holes in the board for the mounting plate.

We press 3 M6 furniture nuts into the holes for the pressure plate.

Furniture nuts.

Instead of ordinary nuts, it is better to install furniture ones.

Install the stand into the holes on the board.

Installing a knife sharpener stand.

The stand should be approximately 60-70 degrees.

We cut out a pressure plate from a sheet of textolite and drill 3 holes in it with a diameter of 7-8mm. It is advisable to make holes in the holes for the bolt head.

PCB pressure plate.

This PCB plate can be replaced with a perforated metal plate, which can be purchased at any hardware store. Then the holes in the board will need to be drilled along the holes in the metal plate.

Perforated metal pressure plate.

PCB pressure plate.

It is better to place the holes for the bolts closer to the knife, so the pressure will be stronger.

We make a plate from PCB that will act as a hinge unit. We make two holes in the plate. In the center with a diameter of 6-8mm for an M6 bolt. On the edge there is a hole with a diameter of 9-10 mm for a rod with a diameter of 8 mm. In the outermost hole, it will be necessary to chamfer on both sides so that the rod can move freely in it in different directions, and not just along the axis of the hole.

Textolite plate. Acts as a hinge unit.

Place the plate on the stand of the knife sharpener.

Installation of the hinge unit.

We make a leash from a rod with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 570 mm. On one side of the rod we put on a wooden handle, a spring and a mounting angle.

Corners can be used galvanized steel with a thickness of 1.5-2mm. Corners can be purchased at a hardware store and, if necessary, cut to the desired size.

Assembling the knife sharpener leash.

On the other side of the rod, we put on an M10 nut with a thread cut in its edge and an M5 screw screwed in.

Assembling the knife sharpener leash.

Knife sharpener leash.

We will use sandpaper glued to a rectangular block as a sharpening stone. It is best to make a block from thick glass, as it has ideal, even and smooth edges. We will make a block from a piece of laminate. It is much easier to work with than glass and it already has the necessary grooves.

We take a sheet of laminate and cut strips 25-30mm wide from it.

We cut the laminate into strips.

We glue strips of sanding paper with different grain sizes to the laminate using double-sided tape.

A strip of laminate with sanding paper attached.

Strips of laminate with sanding paper glued on.

All that remains is to secure the block with the sanding paper glued on the leash. The block is secured by clamping it between two corners on a leash. The corners should fit into the grooves on the laminate.

We install the sanding block on the leash.

Knife sharpener leash.

The knife sharpener is ready.

Knife sharpener.

We sharpen the knife.

Advice. At the very beginning of sharpening a knife, it is important to correctly align the sharpening stone relative to the cutting edge of the knife. To do this, you need to take a waterproof marker and sketch the cutting edge of the knife with it. Then we make several movements with the sharpening stone and see how the marker has worn off. For example, the marker is erased only at the very tip of the knife, which means the angle is too large and the hinge in which the leash goes needs to be lowered.

Watch the video: making a knife sharpener with your own hands

Source: https://delairukami.ru/dom/tochilka_dlja_nogei/

How to make a homemade knife sharpening device with your own hands

In households, the use of cutting, sawing and planing tools is often necessary. During operation, they lose their sharpness, and the blade needs to restore its original properties.

Taking your tools to workshops to sharpen them is a reasonable option, but in order not to waste money again, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands.

: How to sharpen circular saws with your own hands

General information about sharpening knives

The goal of any type of knife sharpening is to ensure a sharp blade. And the most important factor that affects long-term and efficient operation is the sharpening angle. The practicality of this parameter is well assessed during the work process.

If you look objectively, you will notice that with a smaller angle, the knife blade results in a sharper one. But with this action, it turns out that the period of improved cutting qualities is not very long, i.e. it becomes dull faster. The sharper the knife blade becomes during the sharpening process, the more quickly it will become dull.

Based on this pattern, we can come to the conclusion that the angle must be selected correctly and the value must be maintained evenly along the entire length of the edge.

It is worth noting that only those types of blades that have a certain degree of hardening can be sharpened. If the steel hardness of the cutting parts exceeds 55 HRC, then it cannot be sharpened with any available tools.

The golden rule for sharpening knives is the constant sharpening angle of the cutting edge throughout its entire length.

To achieve this, you need professionalism, skills and special equipment that will allow you to hold the tool in your hands, maintaining a given angle of inclination of each cutting edge.

Features of using the device

Of course, a simple whetstone is suitable for sharpening a knife or the cutting edge of a plane. But its quality will not be the best. To ensure uniform removal of the metal layer and precision processing, it is necessary to use special sharpening devices.

The advantage of such a product is not only its ease of use, but also factors such as:

The ability to fix the blades, which is quite reliable and does not cause unnecessary stress. a properly designed device does not allow the metal to be damaged during operation.
Possibility of installing the bar at a certain angle. Thanks to this, when the cutting edge moves, the angle value will not change.
Variation in setting different sharpening angles. With this functionality, it is possible to process various tools, even sharpening knives with a stepped structure.

Materials and tools required for the device

To make a simple and quite high-quality device, you need to take care of preparing the following workpieces and tools:

plywood or small laminated chipboard sheet;
steel stud with a diameter of 8 mm (the thread on it must be cut along the entire length);
textolite or ebonite bars (alternatively can be replaced with hard wood - beech, oak, etc.);
aluminum plate (with a thickness of at least 5 mm);
fasteners – bolts, nuts (wing);
neodymium magnet (you can find it on an old computer HDD).

Drawings of a device for sharpening knives with your own hands

After preparation and provision of materials, you can begin the process of assembling the device. First of all, we take plywood to use as a frame, which should rest on the mounting legs at a certain angle in the range from 15 to 20 degrees. After this, the pin we prepared is screwed into the lower part; its length should be approximately 35-40 cm. To make the mounting thread more durable, you can use glue or sealant.

We fasten an aluminum plate in the center of the installed plywood. Before fastening it, it is necessary to make a groove, which in size will correspond to the diameter of the fixing bolts. It is worth noting that we use an aluminum plate as this will help avoid damage to the steel blade of the knife.

After this, we proceed to making a lever that will allow you to secure the emery to the device. To assemble it we use the remaining part of the pin. Then we take two textolite (or wooden) blocks and, by sawing out, we make holders for the lever. The stops should be secured on one side with a wing nut.

It is optimal to provide a spring-loaded block near the handle, which will allow you to quickly change the emery stone.

As the main elements, you can use blanks from homemade bars - we glue sheets of sandpaper to the aluminum plate, and their grain size should be different. Such a device can be quite easily fixed in the lever.

A design feature is the presence of a hinge with a double degree of freedom. Such a device can be easily assembled using the same PCB bars. One of them should be screwed onto the threads of the vertical stud, and used as a horizontal rotary axis and a height adjuster for the lever support (this is necessary for setting the sharpening angle).

The function of the second bar, which has a horizontal hole for the lever, is that it should be screwed to the first.

Thanks to this, it is possible to ensure free vertical movement of the entire lever structure.

The knives are clamped with a plate, or fixed to the surface of a neodymium magnet. When removing the first layer with coarse types of abrasive, the blade must be securely fixed.

If it is necessary to perform fine-tuning, you can install the blade on a magnet and perform the sharpening operation with little effort. The horseshoe of magnets should be recessed at the same level as the table top and set with epoxy glue.

The manufacture of a homemade device for sharpening knives can be considered complete. It is enough to set the desired angle and sharpen the edge slowly and smoothly along the entire length of the blade.

Device for sharpening knives using electric sandpaper

An electric sharpener will not only speed up the work, but also make it possible to obtain high-quality concave edge profiles on the blades, the so-called fuller sharpening. It is impossible to achieve such forms using a linear bar; therefore, these types of devices are not interchangeable, but complementary devices.

It is noteworthy that a person, working on a manual sharpening device, controls the speed and intensity of the processes performed, while the emery wheel has a constantly high rotation speed, which can negatively affect the condition of the knife.

During friction, the metal surface is subject to strong heating, which results in the “tempering” of the hardened steel. The material loses many properties, it becomes less hard, which leads to abrasion and the appearance of torn edges.

Another problem with a “released” knife is the rapid loss of sharpness. In this regard, you need to work carefully with an electric sandpaper, bringing the blade for sharpening to the abrasive for short periods of time and taking frequent breaks to allow the knife to cool.

When working in such modes, it is quite problematic to maintain constant angles, so the tool needs to be securely fixed during such processing.

The design of such a device is quite simple to implement. In the direction of the rotating axis, there are guides on the emery along which carriages with knives move. The angles are maintained mechanically, and the forces are determined directly by the operator.

This type of device is quite easy to make with your own hands - there is no need to perform precise work for processing metal parts. The base material is actually used to make the guides.

On the workbench, near the sharpener, guides are mounted, with the help of which it is possible to change the distance from the knife stops to the abrasive. This distance affects the sharpening angle. The vertical rod must necessarily have up and down free movement regulators that have durable types of fixation of the current positions.

The knife blade should be held horizontally, pressing against the thrust element. The force in contact with the emery must be adjusted directly during operation. The processing needs to be done symmetrically; you just need to change the sides of the knife and sharpen them at the same angles.

The use of this method can only be suitable when processing classic types of knives. Kitchen, hunting, hiking and other types of cutting surfaces of various tools require a slightly different approach.

A common type of design for sharpening knives is the “Jointer”

For such a device, it is necessary to use a specialized sandpaper with an end-type working surface. The guide under the carriage is placed at the bottom so that it is located away from the rotating axis. This is due to the fact that in this part of the abrasive wheel, its work is considered most effective. The guides with cutting elements are moved manually, the clamps are provided by the tool’s own weight.

A drawing of each structural design is shown in the image.

This type of machine was used at the beginning of the last century, and throughout this time the technology of its operation has remained unchanged. The simplicity of this device makes it easy to make for your home workshop. Any components made of metal, plastic, or wood are suitable for this.

By replacing the cutting element on the jointer, you can sharpen the ice ax knives, the main thing is to maintain the correct angle, which should be flatter. Devices for sharpening scissors work on the same principle.

To sharpen a chisel and a plane knife, you can also use an electric sandpaper and locking carriages. But these types of tools are compact and can be sharpened with a mechanical tool.

There are equivalent methods - along the edges and across. In terms of quality, the processing is virtually identical; therefore, it is therefore impossible to primarily single out a specific type of device.

For factory products, blades are supposed to be adjusted transversely.

Using a similar principle, thick plywood is taken from which the frame is made. Any rollers can be used as a guide, preferably more than two. By moving the machine along the surface of the emery, the chisel blade is given an ideal shape.

If serious types of sharpening are not required, simpler devices are also suitable for minor edits.

Attach the bars with the required angles of inclination to the chisel. Place sandpaper and a piece of glass near them. Apply a soap solution to the glass surface.

You will be pleasantly surprised by the effectiveness of such devices.

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For transverse sharpening, it is worth making a simpler device, where the guide element also acts as a support. The blade is attached vertically to the moving part. The only drawback of this is the fixed angle, which is set during the manufacturing process.

But, compared to a knife, the resulting deviations from ideals are not so critical.

This type of device can be used for sharpening plane knives. But due to the wide size of the blades, the process becomes somewhat more complicated. In this regard, you can use an electric sharpener that has an end working surface.

The stops are made of wooden blocks. It is important to provide for the possibility of changing angles. Clamps are provided by the operator, and semicircular sharpening can be performed, which is very indispensable for carpenters.

Naturally, this device is convenient to use for sharpening the edges of chisels. Given the high productivity rate, you will be able to restore tools even with a large number of nicks.

Now you know how you can create a homemade sharpening machine to perform all the necessary operations for sharpening knives at home.

“Device for sharpening various types of knives”

Source: https://pro-instrymenti.ru/vspomogatelnye/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-nozhej-svoimi-rukami/

Sharpening knives: theory and rules, making your own sharpeners for various purposes

Interest in making knife sharpeners with your own hands arises for a reason. The consumer qualities of hand-held cutting tools are enhanced through the use of modern materials and technologies for blade manufacturing and precise factory sharpening.

At the same time, the price of the product increases, but it is becoming increasingly easier to ruin a fairly expensive item with primitive sharpening. Therefore, various household devices for sharpening knives are no longer needed only for convenience.

To understand why a knife sharpener is still needed and how to make it correctly, you will have to start with the ideology and evolution of the knife.

Why do you need a sharpener?

A living relic of our days is the Finnish hunting knife. Not a gangster Finnish knife, sometimes of a bizarre shape, but a Finnish-type hunting knife, on the left in the figure. Traditional hunting knives (center and left) are similar in shape, but the difference between them is very large.

Finnish knife and classic hunting knives

The blade of a Finnish knife is forged from cast iron, which can be smelted right in your yard from swamp ore in a furnace-furnace, without resorting to the blast furnace process, puddling, and other methods of converting cast iron into iron and steel.

The viscosity of crinkly iron is excellent; it is very difficult to break a blade made from it. But the hardness is also low, somewhere around HRS55, the knife becomes dull quite quickly.

Finnish hunters did not care about this: a blade of such hardness can be sharpened (sharpened) by beating on many natural stones, and there were always enough smoothed moraine boulders in Fennoscandia.

They sharpen a knife by beating it in much the same way as beating a scythe, only the whetstone is motionless and the blade is moved. First, they pull it along the whetstone with the butt away from you, then they turn it over and pull it with the butt towards you.

The position of the cutting edge (CR) on the whetstone is always dragging; quick movements: shirk-shirk! During each movement, you need to keep the contact patch of the blade with the touchstone (see below), but the requirements for maintaining the angle of inclination are not so strict.

Learning to sharpen a knife by beating is not very difficult, and with some skill you can create a smoothly running profile on the blade, see below. However, the Finnish knife is, in general, a dead end in the evolution of a cutting tool, surviving in special natural conditions.

A good knife has never been cheap, and in extreme situations, the durability of the blade, combined with the toughness of the blade, became vital factors. Therefore, even in ancient times, they learned to harden knife blades from the surface and cement them: the core remained viscous, not brittle, and a hard, red-hot crust formed on the outside, see next. rice.:

Structure of a knife blade with surface hardening and carburization

It is still possible to sharpen a knife with a cemented blade, but you need a skill that is not given to everyone. And the abrasive is already needed from a special type of stone - lithographic grunstein slate. There is little of it in nature; Grünstein is still considered a strategic raw material.

There is no artificial grenstein and it is not expected.

It’s as easy as shelling pears to ruin a cemented knife with inept beating - a little somewhere the cementation bark will be stripped down to raw metal (this is not visible to the eye), the knife will only have to be thrown away, the blade will immediately become dull and begin to crumble.

Note: if you have an antique scythe whetstone of a slightly greenish color lying around somewhere, do not throw it away, it is a valuable rarity.

Service knives do not require the same durability and toughness as hunting and hiking knives, and they should cost much less. As a result, special steels and powder metallurgy are widely used in the production of utility knives. The blade of an “eternal” kitchen knife is structured like a rodent’s incisor: in longitudinal layers, the hardness of which decreases from the core outward. In any case, you have to sharpen the knife less often, but chipping is definitely ruled out - the blade immediately becomes discolored.

How to sharpen a knife?

Source: https://vopros-remont.ru/obshhie-voprosy/zatochka-nozhej/

Do-it-yourself knife sharpener: simple devices and creating homemade machines

With repeated use of knives, every housewife faces a problem when they begin to become dull and it becomes simply impossible to work with them. In addition, this is unsafe, since the knife can slip while cutting and injure you. To prevent this from happening, knives should be sharpened in a timely manner using a special sharpening device.

You can purchase a knife sharpener at your nearest hardware store or market, where you will be offered various types of devices. You will have to choose yourself. But in order not to make a mistake, you need to know how to correctly evaluate them in terms of convenience and quality of use.

The offered options do not always satisfy consumers, so many make sharpeners with their own hands, using special stones, tools and drawing sketches with dimensions. The photo shows options for homemade knife sharpeners.

Features of knife sharpening

When sharpening knives, the main thing is to make the correct angle of contact between the edges of the blades so that they serve you for a long time and effectively. Therefore, when sharpening knives yourself, it is necessary to maintain the existing angle of the blades.

Each knife blade has its own optimal angles:

from 10 to 15 degrees - for a medical scalpel or straight razor;
from 15 to 20 degrees – for household knives used for cutting bread products, vegetables or fruits;
from 20 to 25 degrees – for multifunctional knives for cutting a variety of products;
from 25 to 30 degrees – for reliable companions of hunters and tourists on long hikes;
from 30 to 40 degrees - for cutting materials that are particularly hard.

To sharpen the correct angle of the blade, you cannot do without special tools, since it is difficult to do this manually.

The design of such devices is not complicated, so it is easy and quick to make it yourself, and detailed instructions for making sharpeners can be borrowed from the Internet.

Types of knife sharpeners

From a large assortment of different types of knife sharpeners, choosing the right option for yourself is quite simple.

The main elements of the sharpening device are a stop for fixing the knife and an abrasive block, which is used as ready-made abrasive materials (stones) or home-made ones. But before you get to work, you need to learn how to properly make a knife sharpener with your own hands.

Types of sharpening stones

There are several types of whetstones:

aquatic. Sharpening stones used in water are less likely to wear out during use.
oil The structure and configuration are similar to aquatic ones, but with a more oily surface.
natural. For their production, only natural raw materials are used with pre-treatment during the production process.
artificial. In this case, the name speaks for itself, i.e. the abrasive material is created artificially.
rubber. They are not as common as the previous ones, and they are also inconvenient during use.

What can you make a sharpener from?

To make a whetstone with your own hands, you can use the simplest method. Take a small rectangular glass plate about 5mm thick. Using double-sided tape, attach strips of coarse and medium-grit sandpaper to it on both sides.

The block is ready for use; if necessary, worn sandpaper can be easily replaced with a new one. This method is the most budget-friendly.

The disadvantages of this device include:

rapid wear of the abrasive and fragility of the product (when fastening the timber you need to be careful that the glass does not crack).
possible overheating of the material during rapid movements during the sharpening process.

You can find the best ideas for knife sharpeners on their respective websites.

Wooden bars

This method of making a tool for sharpening knives is also simple and accessible to everyone. You will need four identical bars: two abrasive and two wooden.

Before starting work, sand the wood blocks with sandpaper so that their surface becomes smooth without burrs. Mark the block according to the required angle of inclination. Apply a whetstone and mark its width on a block of wood.

Make cuts 1.5 cm deep according to the mark and insert abrasives into the grooves. Secure the stones with bolts. A piece of rubber attached to the bottom will give the structure stability.

In addition, you can make an adjustable sharpener with your own hands, but the next article will tell you how to do this.

Photos of DIY knife sharpeners

We also recommend viewing: Help the project, share on social networks

Source: http://sdelatlegko.ru/tochilka-dlya-nozhej-svoimi-rukami/

Devices for sharpening knives: types and drawings, DIY production

Every housewife sooner or later begins to get dull knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or cuts meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. It can fall off the product being cut at any time and cause injury. Therefore, the tool should be periodically sharpened using a special device for sharpening knives.

A wide range of such sharpening devices are offered in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of sharpening stones, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - necessary conditions

For efficient and long-term operation of a knife, the most important factor when sharpening it is the angle between the edges of the blade . During the sharpening process, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

Each blade has its own optimal angle:

for a razor and scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10–15 degrees;
knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15–20 degrees;
multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
hunting and camping knives - at an angle of 25–30 degrees;
knives for cutting hard materials - 30–40 degrees.

Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the desired angle. Holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to ensure the required angle of inclination of the cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the manufacturing itself does not take much time.

DIY knife sharpeners

There are many types of knife sharpenings, from which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

a block of abrasive material;
stop for attaching the knife.

You can use ready-made special stones as a bar or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

There are several types of stones on sale:

Water tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.
Oil stone resembles water stone in structure and shape, but its surface is the most oily.
Natural instruments are made from natural stones that undergo industrial processing.
Artificial stones are made from non-natural components.
Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but they are not very convenient to work with.

To make your own abrasive bar, you can use small rectangular glass plates with a thickness of 4–5 millimeters. Using double-sided tape, you need to stick sandpaper of different grain sizes onto the surface of the plates. The cost of such bars will be quite small, and the sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass block, you must tighten the nuts very carefully , otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used when using it, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, you should avoid rapid movements, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to the loss of the properties of the blade.

Device for sharpening from wooden blocks

It is enough to simply make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

Wooden blocks must be sanded using sandpaper, removing all burrs from them.
Make preliminary markings on the bars depending on the required angle.
Place a sharpening stone on the marked line and mark its width on both sides of the wooden block.
Make cuts according to the markings on the wooden blanks, the depth of which should be about 1.5 centimeters.
The abrasive bars must be inserted into the resulting recesses so that all the grooves coincide.
Secure the sharpening stones with bolts.

to attach a piece of rubber to its lower surface .

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting corners

The basis for this device is a Lansky sharpener, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

Required materials and tools:

metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
standard aluminum corners;
metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
set of nuts and bolts;
a sharpening machine with a vice or a file;
needle file

Instead of a sharpening machine, you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding off sharp corners and cleaning the metal cutting areas.

Stages of making a sharpener:

According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
The holes are drilled and threaded.
Using a file, all sharp corners and edges are rounded. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
The hole for the spoke support is expanded using a needle file.
The holes for the studs are threaded.
The rods are inserted into the outer holes and secured with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
An M8 bolt is screwed into the wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is threaded, which is fixed with the help of nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, you can adjust the sharpening angle.
A thin metal rod in the shape of the letter L, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut are used to assemble a device that will hold the sharpening stone. The outermost holder must have a through hole for the knitting needle.

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This knife sharpening device has a fairly wide range of pressing angle degrees and is most convenient to use.

Massive sharpener with stand

With your own hands, you can imitate a knife sharpening device from Apex, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet. Such a knife is presented in the form of a stand, on which a platform is installed at an angle, and on the side there is a support for the end of the nozzle in the form of a rod. This is a very convenient device with which you can sharpen any cutting tools very efficiently.

Required materials and tools:

a quarter sheet of chipboard;
small wooden block;
metal rod M8 or M6;
magnet with slots for bolts;
a piece of plexiglass 6x12 cm;
10 screws;
3 wing nuts;
2 bolts;
4 rubber feet;
wooden or ceramic clamps;
sandpaper;
drill;
saw.

Stages of work:

Three blanks are cut from a sheet of chipboard. Their dimensions should be: 30x8 cm; 7x8 cm; 37x12 cm.
On a workpiece measuring 30x8 cm, measure 6 centimeters from the edge on the long side and drill a hole.
From a block with a cross-section of 2x4 centimeters, a section 8 centimeters long is sawn off, in which two through holes are drilled perpendicular to each other. The first should be three centimeters from the edge, and the second three centimeters from the first.
A recess one centimeter thick is cut from the edge of the block to the hole.
A slot is drilled along the middle of the plexiglass.
Holes for legs are drilled in the corners of large chipboard workpieces.
A small piece of chipboard is placed perpendicularly four centimeters from the edge of the workpiece and secured with two self-tapping screws.
A medium-sized workpiece is placed on top and also secured with two self-tapping screws.
For the magnet, a shallow depression is drilled at the very edge of the highest point of a medium-sized part.
The magnet is inserted inside and fixed with self-tapping screws.
A piece of plexiglass is placed on the same board. A bolt is inserted through the slot and hole, which is screwed down with a nut at the bottom.
A hole is drilled on the free edge of a large blank for an iron rod.
The rod is fixed using two nuts: a wing nut and a regular one.
A block is screwed onto the rod, into the hole of which a bolt screwed from the outside with a nut is inserted.
A device for clamping a knife is assembled from a cut of a metal rod, two clamps and four nuts with washers.
The legs are screwed to the finished product.

The sharpening angle on such a device is adjusted using a bar and a wing , which fixes the part at the desired height.

Each of the described devices has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing the appropriate option, you need to proceed from your needs and skills in such work that you will need to do with your own hands.

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DIY knife sharpening device - instructions!

Almost every person in life is faced with the question of sharpening knives. After all, any knife, regardless of its quality, sooner or later becomes dull. Therefore, the blade must be carefully maintained.

In stores today you can choose any sharpener from a huge variety.

What types of sharpening stones are there?

In general, there are several main types of such devices. Namely:

Oil-based, on the surface of which there is oil, specifically to save material.

Water, similar to the previous one, but water is used here.

Natural, industrially processed.

Artificial, made from non-natural materials.

Rubber, extremely rare. Completely inconvenient to use.

Nuances in the matter of sharpening

Every knife sharpening has its moments.

For example, Japanese self-sharpening requires special attention from a fairly experienced specialist, since the Japanese type of steel is quite fragile. To sharpen them, manufacturers recommend using different water stones with different grain sizes.

Housewives use store-bought sharpeners for sharpening. When using several knives, their sharpness remains longer.

But this is very important, even though it takes a lot of time and effort.

How to sharpen knives correctly?

For this it is necessary to create special conditions. Thanks to them, the knife will remain sharp for a very long time.

Therefore, it is important to choose the right angle at which you will sharpen your knives. According to the basic rule in this matter, the smaller the angle at which the knife is sharpened, the stronger the cutting edge will be.

It is important not to forget that the next sharpening depends on the maximum sharpness. The sharper the knife, the faster you will have to sharpen it. At the same time, making it “workable” again will be much more difficult.

Why do they sharpen knives?

Source: http://neruds.ru/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-nozhej-svoimi-rukami.html

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening and sharpening, devices, machine and drawings, rules

Why do you need a sharpener?
How to sharpen a knife?
Sharpening profiles
Touchstone
Knife sharpening devices
L.M.
Knife sharpening machine
Not just knives

Interest in how to make a knife sharpener with your own hands arises for a reason.

The consumer qualities of hand-held cutting tools are enhanced through the use of modern materials and technologies for blade manufacturing and precise factory sharpening. At the same time, the price of the product increases, but it is becoming increasingly easier to ruin a fairly expensive item with primitive sharpening. Therefore, various household devices for sharpening knives are no longer needed only for convenience.

To understand why a knife sharpener is still needed and how to make it correctly, you will have to start with the ideology and evolution of the knife.

DIY knife sharpening device

> Knife sharpening

19.08.2019

You can sharpen a dull knife yourself without going to a workshop and wasting money - you just need a grinding stone and a steady hand. The difficulty is that it is not easy for a person without experience to maintain the angle of the blade in relation to the abrasive stone, and without this the knife can be damaged: bent, twisted or dulled even more.

It is more convenient to restore the sharpness of the cutting edge with a device that can be easily made in 2 hours from scrap materials - those leftovers that can be found on the balcony, in the garage or shed. A DIY knife sharpener can be either a primitive system or a complex functional unit.

A knife sharpening device will make your work much easier.

Main types of homemade devices

The main condition for homemade knife blades is not to distort the angle between the edges of the blades specified in production. It is not easy to hold it by hand without a trained hand and skill.

The device fixes the sharpening angle, so sharpening a knife with a special tool is much easier than with a whetstone.

The simplest and most popular sharpeners are listed below, each of which you can make yourself:

Selecting a quality stone. If you have a sharpening stone in the shape of a roof with two slopes, you can easily restore the sharpness of a dull instrument. This “house” is easy to work with: the blade is attached to one roof slope, and its other side is sharpened with an abrasive stone, making horizontal movements. Then the knife is turned over and the second surface of the blade is processed. The convenience and effectiveness of the method is that you do not need to maintain the angle between the blades with your hands; it is fixed by the shape and angle of the bar.
A simple home sharpening device can be made from two wooden triangles. They are placed parallel to each other and connected with wing screws. The sharpening stone is fixed between wooden supports at an angle, which can be changed if desired. The required inclination of the abrasive can be easily set using a protractor or a program on a tablet.
When processing blades on triangles, the knife must be held 100% vertically. If such a design is used for a long time, the ties may weaken and the set degree of the beam will change, and with it the sharpening angle.
Instead of vertical triangles, you can make a reliable horizontal base from wood, plastic or metal. It must have movable mechanisms for fixing the sharpening stones. The idea is that it should be possible to set different angles of inclination of the bars. Abrasive stones are inserted into holes in the base and fastened. The knife “walks” vertically. Such a device must be held by hand so that it does not move on the table or secured with clamps.
You can make a sharpener from a stable block that is attached to a rolling cart with wheels. The knife is sharpened by moving the hand back and forth. The sharpening angle is determined by the height of the block in relation to the working surface. This device is used for working with kitchen knives and only on a flat plane. It happens that the sharpening angle during movement deviates slightly from the specified one. For greater accuracy, the structure should stand still in place.
A more complex device, the manufacture of which will require time and effort, involves not only fixing the beam, but also the ability to adjust its position. The peculiarity of the system is as follows: the knife blade is securely fixed on a horizontal support, the sharpening stone is attached to the guide, and a slotted bar is made on the vertical stand. Thanks to the hole in the vertical support, the guide with a fixed abrasive surface can be moved and the angle of the blade can be adjusted. With this method, maximum accuracy is achieved.

A sharpening (abrasive) bar or stone is a necessary element of any factory or homemade device for sharpening a knife. It is convenient when it has the shape of a rectangle (it should be longer than the blade), it makes it easier to sharpen the tool.

Stones come in different grain sizes: coarse, medium and fine.

It is determined by the number of grains per unit area and is expressed as a number; the smaller it is, the rougher the stone.

To sharpen knives, you will need stones with medium and fine grain.

To sharpen knives, abrasives with a grain size of 200-350 are not used. Such grains can deform the blade. Knives are sharpened on medium-grain whetstones - from 600. After the main processing, the blade is ground and brought to a shine with 1000-1200 grain sandpaper.

A double-sided whetstone, with a rough abrasive surface on one side and a more refined one on the other, is doubly convenient, since it can be used for basic knife sharpening and finishing work.

Stones also differ in the material from which they are made. Natural - from shale and corundum rocks. These stones have a large grain and are quickly ground down because they are moistened with water or oil during operation.

There are diamond and ceramic bars, which are more wear-resistant and will last longer than natural ones.

Making a simple model yourself

All homemade devices for sharpening knives help to accurately maintain a given angle of inclination of the block to the blade, which is important for maintaining the functionality of the tool and obtaining a good cutting edge of the blade.

A machine designed by Lansky is easy to assemble yourself. To do it, you do not need special training or special technical knowledge. You will need a minimum of simple materials that are always at hand. In a store, such a machine costs about 1,500 rubles.

The operating principle of the Lansky machine is that the knife is securely fixed and processed at a given angle using replaceable sharpening attachments made of stone of different grain sizes. The result is a sharp blade edge.

Step-by-step master class

Required consumables:

A metal rod with a diameter of 6 mm, which must be cut into rods of different lengths.
Welding electrode for the manufacture of corner guides. It is completely cleaned of flux and sanded with medium-grain sandpaper.
Carbon stainless steel 3-5mm thick for clamps. Through holes are made in them. Tip: machine oil will make it easier to drill slots in the plates. You can wash off the oil with a concentrated solution of soap residue.
Metal corners measuring 9x9x0.6 cm.
Fasteners: nuts, screws.

Sequencing:

Using a grinding machine with a diamond disc (grinder), the corners are cut, the edges of which are then smoothed with a file and sanded with sandpaper.
Holes are drilled in horizontal and vertical planes.
The bevels of the guide rail are processed.
A stand is made from a bolt and nut. Then they secure it in a clamp or vice so that the entire structure is securely fixed.
Assemble the entire device.
Attach the abrasive and knife.
Testing the device.

Blade sharpening rules

There are several subtleties that are important when sharpening knives:

It is recommended to start processing the blade from the base of the knife, from its bluntest part;
It is recommended to paint the edge of the blade with a marker in any color so that when sharpening it does not protrude beyond the working area;
the sharp edge should be perpendicular to the sharpening stone;
household knives are sharpened at an angle of 20-25º;
The movements must also be correct: sharpening must be smooth and even, without much pressure;
Finally, the blade can be passed several times along a belt rubbed with goyi paste.

Knife sharpening angle diagram.

Device for sharpening from mounting angles

The prototype of a homemade sharpening device made from mounting angles is a drawing of the aforementioned professional Lansky sharpener.

To make such a device you need:

metal plates 4x11cm;
aluminum corners;
metal rods 15cm long;
bolts and nuts;
tap for thread cutting;
metal sharpening machine;
vice or clamps;
small file for fine sanding work.

You can do without a sharpening machine. It will be replaced by a file or any tool that can smooth out the sharp corners of metal structures.

You can make a high-quality knife with your own hands from mounting corners.

Assembly sequence:

On the metal plates, according to the diagram, markings are made on where to drill the grooves.
Threads are cut in the prepared tap holes.
To make the sharpener comfortable, all surfaces of the metal structure are processed with a file: sharp corners are rounded, burrs are filed, edges are smoothed;
Holes are drilled in the corners according to the drawing.
Use a file to expand the space for supporting the rod.
The holes are threaded with a tap.
Nuts with a diameter of 6 mm are used to tighten the rods inserted into the outer grooves.
A 14 cm bolt with a diameter of 8 mm is screwed into the expanded hole of the base. Before this, you need to screw a wing nut onto the bolt, and two nuts onto it. This bolt will be the support pillar of the entire structure.
Bolts are attached to the remaining grooves. With their help the blade will be fixed.
Nuts are screwed onto the rods, the corner is threaded and secured. The sharpening angle will be adjusted by raising or lowering the rods.
A device for fastening an abrasive stone is assembled from a thin L-shaped metal rod, a threaded rod with a diameter of 6 mm, two holders and a wing nut. The outermost holder must have a through hole for the knitting needle.

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This knife sharpening device is quick to assemble, easy to use, and has a wide range of sharpening angle degrees.

Why is the sharpening angle so important?

The cutting wedge angle (the distance between the edges of the blade) is an important characteristic of any knife. It is set during production, depends on what function the cutting tool performs and varies from 55º (machete) to 10º (scalpel).

for chopping and cutting hard materials - splitting bone, chopping bamboo, splitting coconut - you need a durable cutter with an angle between the edges of the blades of 45-55º;
knives for separating meat from bones and cutting fibers with veins are sharpened at an angle of 40º;
for a blade similar in functionality to an ax (it can be used to chop wood, chop meat, cut straw), an angle of 35-40º is typical;
universal knives (hunting or fishing) are sharpened at an angle of 30-35º;
for standard kitchen work (cutting bread, vegetables, cheese), an angle of 25-30º is suitable;
for cutting fillets, the tool is sharpened at an angle of 10-15º;
an angle of 8-12º is provided for the blade of a straight razor and scalpel.

In order for the knife to work correctly and serve for a long time, it is important to sharpen it at the right angle.

DIY knife sharpening device Link to main publication

Source: https://VashNozh.ru/zatochka/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-nozhej-svoimi-rukami

Devices for sharpening knives, design and manufacture

Almost every home craftsman has cutting tools. Over time, the cutting edges lose their former sharpness, and working with such a product becomes unbearable. There are two options for solving this problem: have the tool sharpened and pay a lot of money, or assemble a knife sharpening device yourself and sharpen the products yourself.

Causes of blade dulling

The dulling of the blade can be explained as follows. During cutting, the blade is exposed to tiny abrasive particles, be it fruits or vegetables. The cutting edge of the blade gradually wears off and the knife becomes dull. Another reason is to hold the blade when cutting at a certain angle.

Some areas of the blade are subject to increased stress and increased wear.

Correct sharpening of knives

There are types of knives that are impossible to sharpen yourself due to the textured blades. Also, knives made from ceramics cannot be sharpened. But, as a rule, the quality of the steel in such products is high, and they rarely become dull. There are a variety of knives of low quality, and they have to be sharpened very often. As practice shows, if the steel is of poor quality, then sharpening will solve the problem for a while, and then the blade will become dull again.

To sharpen knives you will need abrasive wheels. If it is not possible to purchase ready-made circles, you can make them yourself using wooden blocks and sandpaper of different grain sizes.

The standard sharpening angle is 20 - 30 degrees. It is quite difficult to maintain the angle during sharpening, and therefore it is necessary to make a simple knife sharpener, in which it is not necessary to maintain the optimal angle. The basic rule in this process is maintaining a precisely specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.

Basic mistakes

As it may seem at first glance, sharpening is simple, but if you delve into the process itself, you will notice a fairly large number of different nuances. Most people make simple mistakes when sharpening knives, which leads to uneven sharpening or damage to the knife. Common mistakes when sharpening:

The cutting edge was not sharpened . As a result, small burrs form on the sides, which temporarily give sharpness to the blade, and after working with the knife for a short time, the blade again becomes dull. To prevent this problem, you should carefully sharpen both edges, and then, as you sharpen, use sandpaper or a wheel of different grits.
Presence of paint, oil, dirt on the tip . The bottom line is that during turning, fat, dirt, oil and other components mix with grinding abrasives and lead to scratches and microchips of the blade. After such sharpening, the blade quickly becomes dull.
Pressure plays an important role . You need to remember one simple rule: sharpness does not depend on the force used, but on the duration of sharpening. Excessively strong pressure leads to chipping of microparticles from the blade and poor sharpening.
Wrong choice of angle . The angle may vary depending on the grade of steel and the purpose of the tool. For home kitchen knives it is 20 - 25 degrees. For other types of blades that will have to withstand heavy loads and work with hard materials, the angle will be 40 degrees.

Source: https://pochini.guru/sovety-mastera/prisposobleniya-dlya-zatochki-nozhey

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, drawings and dimensions

Currently, there are several types: a machine for sharpening knives, a machine for a hairdressing machine, and others. This article talks about how to make a machine for sharpening knives at home: detailed drawings with dimensions, photos and videos (2-3 videos) are presented.

Rules

Often, when sharpening knives at home, household members use abrasive whetstones. However, in order to use them in practice, you need the necessary skills and experience working with them. After all, if the knife is sharpened at the wrong angle, the blade remains dull.

Layout of the block to the blade.

Before actually manufacturing the machine, you need to listen to the advice of sharpeners.

When sharpening a knife, the master performs the following actions:

Defines the angle between the working area of the blade and the block. Moreover, for each model the angles are different;

The knife is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of the block. The grooves that are formed when the razor blade of the knife rubs against the block should be at 90 degrees to the knife line. The angle in such a situation is equal to half the sharpening;

Typically the angle is 25 degrees;

The mechanic begins processing from the beginning of the foot blade;

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the master paints over part of the foot blade with any marker. As a result, the mechanic directly controls the work area.

As a rule, after sharpening the working blade has non-uniform deformations. Therefore, when processing independently, the “point of reference” should not be the sharp part of the knife.

Choosing whetstones for sharpening a knife

The main indicator of a block is its grain size.

The whetstone is the main component that makes the blade thin and sharp. As a result, before choosing a design, you need to select the necessary blocks.

When sharpening knives on their own, household members use these types of whetstones

which have a high grain size. Using such bars, the shape of the leg blade is corrected.

having medium grain size. With the help of such bars, the mechanic removes the grooves that are formed during the initial processing of the knife

whetstone, which is covered with GOM paste. In such a situation, the mechanic polishes the blade.

When processing knives for the kitchen, you can use two types - with medium and high grain. And also in this case it is necessary to use a touchstone.

Base

When making a sharpening machine at home, you can use various parts. In particular, you can use laminated box plywood 12 mm thick, which was previously used to create radio equipment housings.

When constructing a machine at home, a household member performs the following actions:

Selects a base for such an installation, which must weigh at least 5 kg. Otherwise, it will be impossible to sharpen chopping devices and tools on the machine. Therefore, in the manufacture of such equipment, the tenant uses various steel angles measuring 20x20 mm;

Next, 2 parts are cut out of plywood with a jigsaw, which have a trapezoidal shape, the base is 170 by 60 mm, and the height is 230 mm. When cutting, the mechanic makes an allowance of 0.7 mm for sharpening the ends: they end up straight and fit according to the markings;

Installs 3 parts between the inclined walls on the sides - an inclined surface made of plywood with dimensions of 230 x 150 mm.

In such a situation, the trapezoidal sides are located laterally on a rectangular surface.

The result is a base - a wedge. In such a situation, a protrusion of an inclined surface measuring 40 mm is formed in the front part;

Then, along the side wall ends, the mechanic marks 2 lines with a thicknesser. At the same time, it retreats by half the thickness of the plywood;

Next, he drills 3 holes in the boards to connect the parts of the structure with screws;

Drills the ends of the inclined surface and connects the base parts for a while;

At the back of the structure, the mechanic connects the side walls using a 60x60 mm block, which is attached to the end with two screws on both sides; — makes a 10 mm gap in the block.

In such a situation, it retreats 50 mm from the center - 25 mm from the edge. To maintain a vertical position, first drill with a thin drill from 2 edges, and then expand;

Then, at the top and bottom, two threaded fittings are screwed into the gap, and in the fittings - a 10 mm pin, the length of which is 250 mm.

If the threads do not match the studs, the lower fitting is adjusted.

Tool support device

When making a handhold device, the following steps are performed:

Removes the flat inclined part from the base, modifies it and installs a fixation device on it, as well as the clamp of the device used;

Measures 40 mm from the edge in front and, using a garden hacksaw, uses this mark to cut out a groove, the depth of which is 2 mm;

Using a shoemaker's knife, chip off the top 2 veneer layers from the end of the board. The result is a sample into which the mechanic inserts a 2 mm steel plate at the same level as the general surface;

The tool rest consists of 2 steel strips measuring 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. The machine operator connects them along the large end, which has equal edge indentations, and makes 3 through slots of 6 mm.

Using bolts, tighten the planks along the cracks made. In such a situation, the machine operator leaves the bolt heads on the side of the large top plate;

Next, using electric arc welding, the bolt heads are baked and welded to the plate;

Then he removes metal defects of the weld in the form of beads and grinds the plate to give it a smooth surface;

Applies a small striker plate to the edge recess, moves the slots with a drill and secures the support with bolts.

Fixation device

The second important part of the tool rest is the clamping bar. It can be made from 2 parts.

L-shaped plank measuring 150x180 mm, the width of the shelves is 50 mm (top);

A rectangle-shaped strike plate measuring 50x100 mm (bottom).

When making a clamping bar, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Places the bottom bar on the far edge of the top bar;

Makes 2 holes in the center and retreats 25 mm from the edges of the part, connects the parts through the holes with two 8 mm bolts;

Screws in 8 mm bolts on 2 sides. In such a situation, the head of the nearest bolt is located near the top bar;

Welds the bolt heads to the plates and grinds them in advance until roundness is formed;

Yes, the inclined board retreats 40 mm from the edge and draws a line with a thicknesser;

Makes one 8 mm 25 mm gap at the bottom and top edges;

Using markings, he connects the edges of the slots and uses a jigsaw to make a cut with an allowance. Use a file to expand the groove to a width of 8.5 mm;

It fastens the planks using a groove that is in the board; the top bolt is tightened with a nut and thus firmly fastens the plank.

Then tightens connection 2 with nut;

When pressing the bottom bar (in the niche of the base), screw a wing nut onto the second bolt.

Sharpening angle control

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the mechanic performs the following actions:

Throw a large washer onto the pin, which is located in the block of the machine base, and tighten the nut.

The rod does not rotate in the foot; the block for adjusting the sharpening angle is made from a small carbolite block, the dimensions of which are 20x40x80 mm.

15 mm from the block edge, drill a 20 mm end on both sides, widen the gap to 9 mm, then make a thread inside;

He steps back 50 mm from the axis of the new slot and drills another one in the flat part of the workpiece - 90 degrees to the previous one. Such a slot has a diameter of 14 mm. In such a situation, the mechanic strongly flares the hole using a round rasp;

Screws the block onto the stud - sets the desired height of the eye without using fixing screws;

Secures the block on both sides with M10 hex nuts.

Using replaceable blocks and making a carriage

When making a sharpening carriage, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Welds 30 cm M10 threaded rods with a smooth rod whose thickness is 10 mm;

Uses 2 solid bars 50x80 mm and the thickness is 20 mm. In all blocks, in the center and on top, 20 mm is retreated from the edge, and then a gap is made 10 mm wide;

Screws a wing nut onto the rod, then a large washer and 2 bars, then a nut and washer;

Clamps rectangular sharpening stones between the stones or makes several replaceable sharpening stones.

As a timber base, the machine operator uses a rectangular tube from a profile or a piece of cornice, the width of which is 50 mm;

He sands the flat machine part and cleans it of grease, and glues strips of sandpaper with a grain size of up to 1200 grit using Super Moment glue.

The sandpaper should have a fabric base, and on one of the blocks you need to glue a strip of suede to apply polish to the blades.

Simple homemade machine

The most common type of machine design is considered to be 2 pairs of wooden slats, which are fastened together with screws. The machine operator installs a block between such parts.

The main reason for the popularity of using a hand- made homemade machine for sharpening various knives is its stability. During operation, the machine structure does not move in any way on the workbench.

When fixing the block, the mechanic uses support strips that are located between the wooden elements.

However, such a homemade machine has the following disadvantages:

The master positions the blade to the stone manually. When working for a long time, it is difficult to keep track of the sharpening angle;

When making such an installation, it is necessary to use a fixing unit. The machine structure must be stable, so it must be firmly mounted on the workbench;

During the work, the ties loosen and the location of the block changes.

Another advantage of such a scheme is ease of manufacture. This machine design is most often used when sharpening knives for jointers and for the kitchen.

Wood slats can be of different thicknesses. When making a simple sharpening machine yourself, you can use various available components.

When first studying all the nuances of manufacturing, you need to watch thematic videos that describe in detail how to make a machine at home.

Source: https://stanki-info.ru/dlya-zatochki-nozhej-svoimi-rukami.html