How to solder electronics

How to solder correctly with a soldering iron and rosin

Knowledge of how to solder correctly is needed not only by radio amateurs and electrical installation specialists. Every home handyman has to deal with the need for soldering when repairing electrical appliances.

Preparing the soldering iron for use

Before soldering with a soldering iron, you should properly prepare it for work. In everyday life, an electric soldering iron with a copper tip is most often used, which, during storage and use, gradually becomes covered with a layer of oxide and is subject to mechanical damage. To obtain a solder joint of good quality, the soldering iron is prepared for use in the following sequence:

1. Using a finely cut file, clean the working part of the tip to a length of 1 cm from the edge. After cleaning, the tool should acquire a reddish color, characteristic of copper, and a metallic luster. During stripping, the tip is given a wedge-shaped, beveled, cone-shaped shape in order to solder what the master needs.
2. Plug in the soldering iron and heat it to operating temperature.
3. The tip must be tinned and covered with a thin layer of tin - the same solder used to solder the connected conductors. To do this, the tip of the tool is immersed in rosin, and then a piece of solder is passed along it. You should not use a solder rod with rosin inside for tinning a soldering iron. To distribute the solder evenly, rub the working edges against a metal surface.

During operation, the half-plate will burn and wear off, so the soldering iron will have to be cleaned and tinned several times during the soldering process. You can clean the tip with a piece of sandpaper.

If the master uses a tool with a nickel-plated, non-burnable rod, it will have to be cleaned with a special sponge or damp cloth. They tin such a sting in molten rosin, running a piece of solder over it.

Soldering can only be learned on the job, but before that it is advisable to become familiar with the basic operations.

Fluxing or tinning

The traditional and most affordable flux is rosin. If desired, you can solder with a solid substance or its alcohol solution (SKF, Rosin-gel, etc.), as well as TAGS flux.

The legs of radio components or chips are covered with half-milk at the factory. But to get rid of oxides, you can tin them again before installation, lubricating them with liquid flux and covering them with an even layer of molten solder.

Before processing with flux or tinning, copper wire is cleaned with fine emery cloth. This removes the oxide layer or enamel insulation. Liquid flux is applied with a brush, and then the soldering area is heated with a soldering iron and covered with a thin layer of tin. Tinning in solid rosin is done as follows:

• melt a piece of the substance on a stand and heat the conductor in it;
• feed the solder rod and distribute the molten metal evenly over the wire.

Correctly soldering massive copper, bronze or steel parts should be done using active fluxes that contain acids (F-34A, Glycerin-hydrazine, etc.). They will help create an even layer of poluda and firmly connect parts of large objects. Tin is applied to large surfaces with a soldering iron, spreading solder evenly over them. After working with active flux, acid residues should be neutralized with an alkaline solution (for example, soda).

Preheating and temperature selection

It is difficult for beginners to determine at what temperature the tool can start working. The degree of heating should be selected depending on the type of material:

• soldering microcircuits requires heating no higher than +250°C, otherwise the parts may be damaged;
• large individual radio components can withstand heating up to +300°C;
• Tinning and joining of copper wire can occur at +400°C or slightly lower;
• massive parts can be heated at the maximum power of the soldering iron (about +400°C).

Many models of instruments have a thermostat, and it is easy to determine the degree of heating. But in the absence of a sensor, it is worth keeping in mind that a household soldering iron can be heated to a maximum of +350 +400°C. You can start working with the tool if the rosin and solder melt within 1-2 seconds. Most POS grade solders have a melting point of about +250°C.

Even an experienced craftsman will not be able to solder correctly with a soldering iron that is not heated enough. With low heat, the solder structure becomes spongy or granular after solidification. Soldering does not have sufficient strength and does not ensure good contact between the parts, and such work is considered a defect.

Working with solder

When heated sufficiently, the molten solder should become flowable. For small jobs, you can take a drop of alloy on the tip of the tool and transfer it to the parts to be joined. But it is more convenient to use thin wire (rod) of different sections. Often inside the wire there is a layer of rosin, which helps to solder correctly with a soldering iron without distraction from the process.

With this method, a hot tool heats the surface of the connected conductors or parts. The end of the solder rod is brought to the tip and pushed a little (1-3 mm) under it. The metal instantly melts, after which the remainder of the rod is removed, and the solder is heated with a soldering iron until it acquires a bright shine.

When working with radio components, you need to take into account that heating is dangerous for them. All operations are performed within 1-2 seconds.

When soldering connections of single-core wires of large cross-section, you can use a thick rod. When the tool is heated sufficiently, it also melts quickly, but you can distribute it over the surfaces to be soldered more slowly, trying to fill all the grooves of the twist.

Source: https://odinelectric.ru/knowledgebase/kak-pravilno-payat-payalnikom

Notes from a master. Part 3. Soldering matters - android.mobile-review.com

Hello!

We continue to learn about self-repair at home, without going to the service center.

Today we will talk about the basics of soldering work.

Workplace

When carrying out soldering work, ensure good ventilation and lighting. Also, make your workplace at a comfortable height. It is much more convenient for me when the table on which I perform soldering work is located slightly lower than a regular desk. This way your shoulders get less tired.

I strongly recommend getting a pad for the table on which you will solder. This will protect the table surface from damage from the soldering iron. In my opinion, a thick silicone mat is an excellent option. It is not afraid of high temperatures, and at the same time parts do not slip on it.

You can buy it at any household supermarket.

Safety precautions

Equip your workplace with a reliable holder for your soldering iron, which you won’t be able to accidentally move with your hand or pull off the wire. Keep all flammable materials away from the soldering iron.

It’s great if the soldering iron, lying in its place, is protected from the possibility of touching it (pets love to smell or touch them, and believe me, it won’t be very pleasant to run around the house after a screaming cat or dog whose nose or paw is swollen from getting to know the surface such an interesting subject). The same is true for young children.

Tools and materials

What do we need for soldering? To begin with, of course, a soldering iron with replaceable tips (ideally a soldering station). As I already wrote in the previous article, to start your repair work it is best to use a low-power soldering iron (25W), this way you will minimize the risk of overheating and therefore damaging the elements on the board.

The main consumables you will need for soldering are solder and flux.

Solder

Solder is a material used to connect various elements by soldering.

An alloy of tin with various materials is most often used as solder in electronics repair.

There are solders with different melting points. If you do not plan to solder aluminum pans, the most popular type of solder is suitable for you - POS-61 , which consists of 61% tin and 39% lead. Its melting point is 190 C.

POS-61 is my main type of solder. It comes in various forms, ranging from thick rods, ingots, and ending with thin, hollow tubes, the insides of which are filled with flux (rosin). Thus, we get a convenient “2 in 1” material, the use of which greatly simplifies our life. Thanks to this design, there is no need to break away from the soldering process and dip the soldering iron tip into the rosin.

But it is not always possible to use POS-61. In the process of repairing electronics, it often becomes necessary to solder elements that are sensitive to overheating, which must be soldered at a low temperature. In this case, I use Rose alloy (POSV-50) as solder. It consists of three elements, tin – 25%, lead – 25%, bismuth – 50%.

A special feature of this alloy is its very low melting point, only 94C (below the boiling point of water). In this case, you don’t have to worry about possible overheating of the circuit. However, it is important to understand that you should not solder elements with Rose alloy that are exposed to high temperatures during operation.

In addition to POS-61 and POSV-50, there are quite a large number of solders for various soldering conditions, but I am only talking about my own experience and home use, so I will limit myself to these two types that I use.

Fluxes

Flux is an active substance with the help of which soldered surfaces are cleaned of oxides, and better spreading of solder and its contact with the surface is ensured.

Here, a novice master will find freedom, and at the same time, the agony of choice.

All fluxes can be divided into two large categories: 1 - aggressive, 2 - non-aggressive. Aggressive ones are usually made on the basis of various acids that actively act on surfaces, so after use they must be washed off with Flux-off. Non-aggressive ones, as a rule, have well-known rosin.

The easiest way is to buy flux at any radio parts store. I most often use LTI-120.

But you can also make both types of flux yourself at home. The first, easiest way is to pour crushed rosin in a 50/50 ratio with alcohol and shake. As the alcohol evaporates, the flux will thicken. Just add alcohol to get it back to the right consistency. Important: add alcohol to the rosin to the desired consistency, and not to the master until it is in perfect condition.

Source: http://android.mobile-review.com/articles/48428/

What and how to solder microcircuits

Modern radio-electronic devices cannot be imagined without microcircuits - complex parts into which, in fact, dozens, or even hundreds of simple, elementary components are integrated.

Microchips make devices light and compact. You have to pay for this with the convenience and ease of installation and the rather high price of the parts. The price of a microcircuit does not play an important role in determining the overall price of the product in which it is used.

If such a part is damaged during installation, when replacing it with a new one, the cost may increase significantly. It is not difficult to solder a thick wire, a large resistor or a capacitor, all you need is basic soldering skills.

The microcircuit must be soldered in a completely different way.

To avoid annoying misunderstandings, when soldering microcircuits it is necessary to use certain tools and follow certain rules based on extensive experience and knowledge.

Soldering equipment

To solder microcircuits, you can use various soldering equipment, ranging from the simplest soldering iron to complex devices and soldering stations using infrared radiation.

A soldering iron for soldering microcircuits should be low-power, preferably designed for a supply voltage of 12 V. The tip of such a soldering iron should be sharply sharpened to a cone and well tinned.

To desolder microcircuits, a vacuum desoldering pump can be used - a tool that allows you to remove solder from the legs on the board one by one. This tool is similar to a syringe in which the piston is spring-loaded upward. Before starting work, it is pressed into the body and fixed, and when necessary, it is released by pressing a button and rises under the action of a spring, collecting solder from the contact.

A hot-air station is considered a more advanced equipment, which allows both dismantling of microcircuits and soldering with hot air. This station has in its arsenal a hairdryer with adjustable air flow temperature.

A piece of equipment such as a heat table is very popular when soldering microcircuits. It heats the board from below, while installation or dismantling is carried out from above. Optionally, the heating table can be equipped with top heating.

On an industrial scale, soldering of microcircuits is carried out by special machines using infrared radiation. In this case, the circuit is preheated, soldered directly, and the contacts of the legs are cooled step by step.

At home

Soldering microcircuits at home may be required to repair complex household appliances and computer motherboards.

As a rule, to solder the legs of the microcircuit, use a soldering iron or soldering gun.

Working with a soldering iron is carried out using regular solder or solder paste.

Recently, lead-free solder with a higher melting point has become increasingly used for soldering. This is necessary to reduce the harmful effects of lead on the body.

What equipment will be required?

To solder microcircuits, in addition to the soldering equipment itself, you will need some other equipment.

If the microcircuit is new and made in a BGA package, then the solder is already applied to the legs in the form of small balls. Hence the name - Ball Grid Array, which means an array of balls. These enclosures are designed for surface mounting. This means that the part is installed on the board, and each leg is soldered to the contact pads with a quick, precise action.

If the microcircuit has already been used in another device and is used as used spare parts, it is necessary to perform a reballing. Reballing is the process of restoring the solder balls on the legs. Sometimes it is also used in the case of a blade - loss of contact of the legs with the contact patches.

To carry out reballing, you will need a stencil - a plate of refractory material with holes located in accordance with the location of the microcircuit pins. There are ready-made universal stencils for several of the most common types of microcircuits.

Solder paste and flux

For proper soldering of microcircuits, certain conditions must be met. If the work is carried out with a soldering iron, then its tip should be well tinned.

For this, flux is used - a substance that dissolves the oxide film and protects the tip from oxidation before being coated with solder during soldering of the microcircuit.

The most common flux is pine rosin in a solid, crystalline form. But to solder a microcircuit, such a flux is not suitable. Its legs and contact spots are treated with liquid flux. You can make it yourself by dissolving rosin in alcohol or acid, or you can buy it ready-made.

In this case, it is more convenient to use solder in the form of filler wire. Sometimes it may contain powdered rosin flux inside. You can purchase a ready-made soldering kit for soldering microcircuits, which includes rosin, liquid flux with a brush, and several types of solder.

When reballing, solder paste is used, which is a base of viscous material that contains tiny balls of solder and flux. This paste is applied in a thin layer to the legs of the microcircuit from the back of the stencil. After this, the paste is heated with a hairdryer or infrared soldering iron until the solder and rosin melt. After hardening, they form balls on the legs of the microcircuit.

Work order

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all tools, materials and devices so that they are at hand.

When installing or dismantling, the board can be placed on a thermal table. If a soldering gun is used for dismantling, then to prevent its impact on other components, you need to isolate them. This can be done by installing plates made of refractory material, for example, strips cut from old circuit boards that have become unusable.

When using a desoldering pump for dismantling, the process is more accurate, but takes longer. The desoldering pump “charges” as it cleans each leg. As it fills with pieces of solidified solder, it needs to be cleaned.

There are several soldering rules that must be followed:

• Soldering the microcircuits on the board must be done quickly so as not to overheat the sensitive part;
• You can hold each leg with tweezers during soldering to provide additional heat removal from the body;
• When installing using a hair dryer or infrared soldering iron, you must monitor the temperature of the part so that it does not rise above 240-280 °C.

Electronic parts are very sensitive to static electricity. Therefore, when assembling, it is better to use an antistatic mat that is placed under the board.

Why dry chips?

Chips are microcircuits housed in BGA packages. The name, apparently, came from an abbreviation that meant “Numerical Integrated Processor”.

Based on experience, professionals have a strong opinion that during storage, transportation, and shipment, chips absorb moisture and during soldering, it increases in volume and destroys the part.

The effect of moisture on the chip can be seen if the latter is heated. Blisters and bubbles will form on its surface long before the temperature rises to a value sufficient to melt the solder. One can only imagine what is happening inside the part.

To avoid the undesirable consequences of moisture in the chip body, when installing boards, the chips are dried before soldering. This procedure helps remove moisture from the case.

Drying rules

Drying of chips must be carried out observing temperature conditions and duration. New chips that were purchased in a store, from a warehouse, or sent by mail are recommended to be dried for at least 24 hours at a temperature of 125 °C. For this you can use special drying ovens. You can dry the chip by placing it on a hot plate.

The drying temperature must be controlled to prevent overheating and failure of the part.

If the chips were dried and stored under normal room conditions before installation, it is enough to dry them for 8-10 hours.

Considering the cost of the parts, it is obviously better to dry them in order to proceed with installation with confidence, than to try to solder an undried chip. Troubles can result not only in wasted money, but also in lost time.

Source: https://svaring.com/soldering/platy/kak-payat-mikroshemy

Solder without a soldering iron: principle of operation and tinning, making paste with your own hands, repairing headphones

Cold soldering is a valuable skill. There are many situations where being able to repair or modify electronics can really save your day. But most people don't carry a soldering iron, and even if you do have a soldering iron, you may not have access to electricity. How to solder without a soldering iron?

So today I'm going to show you how to solder using objects and tools you have around (and some solder).

Using the tinning method when soldering

How to properly solder with a soldering iron with acid

A quick way to solder wires is tinning. To do this, you can use an ordinary nail or a piece of copper wire, the end of which must be flattened with a hammer. Soldering is done as follows:

1. The ends of the wires, stripped of insulation, are twisted.
2. Flux is applied to the twist.
3. Solder is converted into powder using a file or needle file.
4. The flux on the twist is generously sprinkled with lead-tin chips.
5. A metal rod (nail, copper wire, etc.) is heated over an open fire. A gas burner or a blowtorch can be used for this.
6. The hot core is passed along the twisted wires until a tinned connection surface is obtained.

Using a homemade sting

To save money, many craftsmen decide to create a homemade tip. The operating principle of the soldering iron is quite simple:

1. There is a heating element that receives power from the power supply.
2. Heat is transferred to the sting, which has a pointed shape.
3. When the tip comes into contact with the material being processed, it heats up and becomes plastic.

You can make a homemade design as follows:

1. A piece of copper wire is required, which has a diameter of about 0.5 cm. A conductor can be used as a tip, one end of which is sharpened at an angle of 45 degrees. A small piece of fabric that is temperature resistant is also required.
2. One end of the cable is insulated. It will be used as a handle. Fiberglass is often used as an insulating material. Fixation is carried out using heat-resistant glue.

Homemade sting

Soldering without a soldering iron can be carried out using a fire source, for example, a gas stove. Using fire, the tip is heated, after which you need to touch the solder or rosin. Due to the use of a special material, the tip will become tinned and the tip can be used as a soldering iron.

Features of soldering in the groove

Soldering iron repair

Connecting both single-core and multi-core cables with a cross-section of 3 mm2 without soldering equipment is possible in an original way:

• twist the stripped ends of the wires;
• a piece of foil is bent so as to form an elongated bath;
• a twist is placed in it;
• Flux is applied to the stripped wires and tin powder is added;
• the foil is heated with an open flame from a lighter or other flame source;
• during heating, the twist is rotated around its axis;
• upon completion of soldering, the remaining foil is removed;
• the soldered twist is wrapped in shrink film and heated until a dense layer of insulation is obtained.

Hot Iron

A metal object is heated on an open flame, for example a gas burner, or simply in a fire. A thick paperclip or nail will do. The size is selected based on the thickness of the material being soldered. The improvised tip is red-hot, then pressed against the prepared soldering area.

Solder must be placed in the work area in advance . It will not be possible to solder it efficiently in one go, so the procedure should be repeated many times.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKZBAqnGoZ4

This video demonstrates a simple method of soldering wires using a regular candle.

Sun and magnifying glass

By concentrating the sun's rays with a magnifying glass, you can create a point with a temperature of up to 600 degrees. This is quite enough to melt the solder, provided several conditions are met. Firstly, the magnifying glass must be fixed , since an unstable point of concentration of solar energy will not create the required temperature. Secondly, this value (600 degrees) is only theoretical.

When heating a material with good thermal conductivity (in our case, copper wire), the heat will instantly dissipate. However, a magnifying glass with a diameter of 8-15 cm is quite suitable for extreme soldering. Of course, provided there is sun and a cloudless sky. The greatest effect is achieved at noon.

Short circuit

This method is used when connecting single-core electrical wiring to improve contact in the twist. It is based on the spot welding method. You can use a regular car battery.

Therefore, the cables that supply voltage must be of large cross-section. Care must be taken when working.

Wires are suitable for “lighting”, which motorists use to revive a dead battery. To solder a wire without a soldering iron using a battery, you need to briefly touch the terminals to the twist at a distance of 1-2 cm. The contact time should be no more than 1 second.

Otherwise, you can damage the battery and melt the soldered wire. The joint is pre-treated with flux, and a piece of solder is placed on it.

Soldering dishes or containers

Over time, metal utensils can rust. There is no need to rush to throw away a leaky pan; it should be sealed.

Soldering station - operating principle and types

How to do this without a soldering iron? There is a simple way to do this. For the sting you will need a piece of metal strip 30-40 mm wide and no more than 1 mm thick. This is something that can be used instead of a soldering iron. You also need to prepare a piece of lead-tin alloy, flux and a blowtorch or gas torch. The work is carried out in several stages:

1. The metal strip is cut so that it is convenient to hold it with your hand. This side of the strip is wrapped with heat-resistant material.
2. The second end is cut in the shape of the letter V. It is sharpened with a file.
3. The pan is turned upside down. Some material with a metal plate is placed under it so that the metal fits tightly from below to the hole in the bottom.
4. Use sandpaper to clean the surface around the hole.
5. Solder is cut into pieces ø 3-5 mm.
6. Flux is applied to the cleaned surface.
7. Then pieces of solder are placed around the hole.
8. The working end of the strip is heated over an open fire.
9. A homemade soldering iron is used to tin the repaired area of ​​the bottom of the pan.
10. After cooling, the solder is polished with emery.

Note! To solder dishes and various containers for preparing food, you need to use a food alloy, which consists of 90% tin. This metal is absolutely harmless to human health.

Tinning without a soldering iron

To improve the contact of wires and increase the quality of soldering, preliminary application of solder to the places of the elements to be connected is used. This technology is called tinning and can also be carried out without using a soldering iron. To do this, you need a small container, which can be used as any metal lid from a jar.

The wires are prepared and the insulation is removed from the ends that are subject to tinning. Rosin and tin-lead solder are placed in the container. Next you will need to heat the contents over a fire. The bare and stripped ends of the wire are dipped into boiling rosin, and then into a mass of tin for a few seconds. After removing the wires, you must immediately remove excess solder using a soft rag so that the procedure leaves a thin, uniform layer.

If the purpose of tinning is not wiring, but the repair of dishes or other non-steel surfaces, then the container will not be suitable. The work is carried out directly on the part. To do this, solder with rosin is planed onto the processing site and subjected to heating from the bottom. Afterwards, the contents are ground, and the excess is removed with a rag. To obtain a high-quality result, it is recommended to treat the surface with a special acid. Now the tinned parts are ready for soldering.

Solder paste for soldering without a soldering iron

Solder paste includes flux and solder. This is very convenient when soldering without a soldering iron. There is no need to tinker with these two components separately. It is enough to apply the paste once to the junction of the wires and then heat it to the melting temperature of the solder.

Solder paste consists of metal powder, flux, and fixative (an adhesive substance to hold the alloy in a liquid state within the soldering area). The paste contains tin and lead powder with the addition of silver. The proportions of the composition vary depending on the purpose of the product.

Soldering with a lighter

When heated, the flux instantly evaporates, the solder firmly and tightly covers the entire twist of wires. The result is high quality soldering. The applied composition allows you to do without soldering irons and soldering stations.

For food soldering, it is recommended to use the following brands of pastes: POS 63, POM 3 and others. Paste soldering is used to work with microcircuits, where instead of soldering irons, thin metal rods are used, heated by external heat sources.

Source: https://instanko.ru/drugoe/kak-pripayat-bez-payalnika.html

How to use a soldering iron correctly: how to solder boards, contacts and LEDs with wires

Soldering is one of the most effective and simplest ways to connect metal materials, wires and parts. Although soldering work is considered simple, you will need certain knowledge and skills. The most common type of soldering is work done with a soldering iron. To know how to properly solder with a soldering iron with rosin or other types of fluxes, you need to delve a little deeper into the topic.

There are different types of soldering irons that differ in power.

• Electric soldering irons are the most common and operate on electricity.
• Gas - they work using a gas burner.
• Thermal air - use air flow.
• Induction soldering irons - their work is based on heating the tip with a magnetic field.

One of the varieties of this tool is also a soldering iron for rhinestones. It is considered one of the most common elements when working with thermal rhinestones. The technology for using this product is very simple - put the rhinestone on the fabric and apply a soldering iron on top, the glue penetrates the fabric and securely holds them together.

In everyday life, electric soldering irons are most often used, having different powers for different types of work. For soldering electronic components, soldering irons with a power of up to 40 W are used; if the parts have a wall thickness of no more than 1 millimeter, then the device has a power of 80 to 100 W. For thicker-walled parts, soldering irons with a power of over 100 W are used.

Solders and Fluxes

Before you begin soldering work, you need to select solders and fluxes. For electrical soldering, there are different types of solder, which can be soft or hard.

Soft ones include tin-lead alloys, which have a low melting point and are not particularly strong. It is not recommended to use them if the soldering temperature exceeds 100 degrees Celsius. Refractory alloys include silver and copper alloys.

They are perfect for those connections where there will only be a static load on the material, since such alloys are very fragile.

Fluxes are responsible for how the metal will be soldered and how strong the connection will be. Its task is to remove the metal oxide film. The following fluxes are used: various mixtures of rosin and acid. Rosin mixtures are commonly used when soldering electronics, while acid is used to join small wires and small contacts.

Security measures

Organize your workplace; it should be bright and ventilated, as the soldering process produces gases that are harmful to health. It is also recommended to wear glasses to protect your eyes from splashes of molten metal or flux.

Tinning the tip

The tip is a cylindrical rod made of copper. Its shape can be changed depending on the type of work. For example, it can be flattened into the shape of a screwdriver tip. This type of sharpening is used when soldering massive parts. You can also grind off a pyramid-shaped tip; it should be used when soldering small parts.

Tinning is used at the preparatory stage and involves covering the tip with a thin layer of solder for better contact with the surface to be connected. This operation will protect the tip from rapid wear and corrosion.

Soldering conductors

To know how to solder a wire to a contact, you just need to practice a little. Before proceeding directly to soldering, you should thoroughly warm up the soldering tool; when you use it for the first time, the soldering iron begins to smoke - this burns out the lubricant used in its production. It needs to be allowed to cool, then turned on again.

Next, the first thing you need to do is clean the insulation; it can be easily removed with wire cutters in one movement. Insulation in the form of enamel, paint or fabric wrapping must first be burned. Then go over the wires with sandpaper or resort to a chemical method - put the wire on an aspirin tablet and heat it with a soldering iron.

The next step is to apply a little flux to the wire you are going to solder, then use a soldering iron to begin tinning. Immediately after this, you need to connect the two ends of the wire, carefully heat the contact point until the solder melts and quickly remove the soldering iron so as not to overheat the parts.

Modern electronic devices do not have wires. The connection is made by soldering the contact surface. For such types of work, use a low-power soldering iron with a power of 10-12 W. Before use, you can make several copper tips with branches for it. They will allow you to use the tool when working with LEDs and various radio elements.

Working with the board

Before soldering the wire to the board , you need to perform certain actions:

• Insert the part into the previously prepared place.
• Bring the heated soldering iron along with the solder to the soldering area.
• Apply a thin layer of solder to the contacts of the board and the pins of the part.
• Quickly remove the soldering tool.

The heated soldering iron tip should be in contact with the board and contacts at the same time. We remove it only when the soldering area is covered with a thin layer of solder. Excess solder can be removed with copper wire; you just need to bring it to the soldering site.

Induction soldering

This type of soldering is widely used in industry and allows you to connect various conductive metals, such as copper, steel, aluminum, hard alloys, etc. During the operation, non-contact heating occurs due to the formation of eddy currents. To protect parts from oxidation, induction soldering is carried out using fluxes or in a vacuum.

Common mistakes

Typical mistakes made by beginners:

1. Don't get lost
2. Overheat
3. Chemical destruction
4. Solder rolling

Failure to solder occurs due to the fact that the soldering iron was not warmed up enough , or the materials being soldered were too refractory, and the soldering iron had too little power.

Overheating is the exact opposite of unsoldering. The main reasons for overheating: using a soldering tool that is too powerful, or leaving it on the soldering area for too long.

Solder rolling occurs due to the fact that the surface of the materials being joined was poorly cleaned. The oxidizing layer on their surface does not allow the solder to spread well, which leads to poor contact of the components being soldered.

Chemical destruction appears at the soldering site due to incorrectly selected flux, and if washing is not carried out after soldering. This leads to corrosion and gradual destruction of the soldering area.

Proper care

A high-quality soldering iron is not a cheap tool, and like any other tool, it requires careful care. Basic rules for caring for it:

• It is not recommended to turn on the soldering iron with the tip removed, as this leads to overheating of the element and significantly reduces the service life of the tool
• Before first use, you need to coat the tip with high-quality flux and tin it.
• After completing the work, you need to thoroughly clean the tip and tin it, this will help to quickly warm up the tool the next time you use it.
• During soldering, you need to periodically apply solder to the tip of the soldering agent, so its tip will last you longer.

Source: https://220v.guru/fizicheskie-ponyatiya-i-pribory/payalniki/kak-pravilno-payat-payalnikom-vidy-payalnyh-rabot.html

Soldering iron for microcircuits: the best models, varieties for phones, instructions for use for radio components and other electronics

The manufacture of various amateur devices, as well as simple repair work to replace radio components on various printed circuit boards, is inevitably associated with the soldering process. At the same time, you need to understand that a soldering iron for microcircuits has certain differences from conventional devices of this type. Using an unsuitable device may cause electronic failure and damage to the board. Therefore, you need to carefully consider his choice.

Design

Soldering irons for microcircuits have a number of differences:

• The tip of the soldering iron is called the tip. This is the main working part. From it, or more precisely from its shape and size, it is determined for what specific purposes this or that device serves.
• Another factor by which you can recognize this type of soldering tool is the size of the device itself. Small jobs require a soldering iron that is compact, lightweight, and easy to control. Standard devices are too crude for this.
• The power of a soldering iron for soldering microcircuits is also quite low. This is to ensure that the tip does not reach too high a temperature. This may harm circuit components.

Soldering iron design

Characteristics

Technical characteristics that you should pay attention to when choosing a tool:

• Power. In the case of soldering irons for circuits, the power value should not exceed 10 W. This parameter affects the performance and safety of electrical elements. This approach is used when installing a circuit. If elements are being removed from the board and their safety is not important, then a high power value will facilitate the process.

Important! Powerful devices can only be used by experienced radio amateurs who are able to perform work accurately and quickly without causing overheating of the elements.

Devices of various power

• The voltage required to operate. High voltage from the network, equal to 220 V, can also damage parts. For this reason, the soldering iron is connected through a step-down transformer, which, depending on the model, produces either 12 or 36 V. When choosing a product, it is best to take a kit that already includes a transformer or power supply, so as not to purchase it separately.
• The thickness of the tip also plays an important role. For conventional instruments it is about 5 mm. For micro-soldering tools, a value of up to 3 mm is considered normal. Replacement tips are most often sold separately, but there are kits that also include them.

Various soldering iron attachments

• The presence of a thermostat allows you to choose a comfortable temperature regime for each type of installation. This reduces the risk of element damage and also makes the work process more convenient and efficient. Typically, more expensive models are equipped with a thermostat.

Heaters of various types

User manual

There are often nuances in work that need to be corrected. The main points will be discussed below.

Soldering chips

When operating microcircuits and chips, it is necessary, first of all, to exclude the possibility of overheating of the chip. To do this, you need to touch each of its contacts for no more than three seconds. After this, the contact must be cooled and only then can the soldering process be carried out again.

Before soldering, the chip contacts are prepared and processed by applying a thin layer of solder to them, which will improve contact with the surface. Flux is applied to the legs of the element and a tip with solder is passed over them. If the procedure is carried out correctly, the contact will be shiny and smooth, without various accumulations of solder.

Various types of microcircuits

Pin chips

If the chip has leads in the form of pins, then the process of soldering it into the board occurs as follows:

1. The microcircuit is installed in special holes in the surface of the board.
2. On the opposite (back) side, flux is applied to the pin contacts.
3. Each pin is soldered on the same reverse side.
4. Remains of flux are removed.

Pin chip

Soic chips

Chips of this type are soldered slightly differently. This method is most often called "solder wave". Its essence is that molten solder in a liquid state fills the space between the metallized part of the board and the contacts of the part. This creates a drop that is capable of conducting electrical impulses.

The solder wave method is performed in the following few steps:

1. Tin and moisten with flux all surfaces that will provide contact.
2. Place the microcircuit on the surface of the board so that all the legs are aligned with the metallized tracks.
3. To begin with, you need to solder only one corner contact.
4. Next, the second contact is soldered, located diagonally in relation to the first. In this case, you need to make sure that all other contacts remain on their metal tracks.
5. Next, flux is applied to all soldered and free ends of the microcircuit.
6. Next, using the tip, the solder is evenly distributed over the contacts.
7. If solder bridges form between the contacts, you must remove them, as the jumpers will interfere with the operation of the components. Removal occurs using a special metal braid. To do this, place it on top of the jumper and pass it with the tip of a soldering iron. In this case, the solder is absorbed into the braid.

Important! When performing soldering using the “wave solder” method, there must be a sufficient amount of flux at the places where soldering is carried out directly to ensure wetting of the surfaces.

Source: https://rusenergetics.ru/ustroistvo/payalnik-dlya-mikroskhem

Soldering iron for soldering microcircuits

Soldering is an integral part of IC equipment repair and creation. This is a rather complex process that requires special equipment, since it involves working with fairly small parts.

A soldering iron for microcircuits is noticeably different from the one needed for soldering wires. Its dimensions are noticeably smaller than large models for ordinary operations, and the tip also has a fine sharpening.

There may be options with special types of sharpening, which are designed primarily for desoldering.

An electric soldering iron for microcircuits is a necessary tool for a repairman and radio equipment enthusiast. Models can be in different price segments with different characteristics. In any case, it will be a hand tool that will allow you to apply a thin layer of solder and heat the parts to solder and desolder them from the circuit. Many varieties are narrow-profile and intended for one type of work.

Soldering microcircuits with a soldering iron

Features of soldering irons for microcircuits

One of the main features of such models is the shape of the tip. The tip is the main working tool. Depending on its shape and other features, you can understand exactly how the device will work and for what purposes it is intended. The shape is not the only parameter that makes an electronics soldering iron stand out from the rest.

Size becomes another factor that sets this type of device apart from the rest. A small soldering iron for microcircuits allows you to carry out basic operations for working with them, while large standard models are quite crude for such work. This also affects the power of the product.

For each type of work, the power must be appropriate so that it is enough to melt the contacts, but so that the soldering iron does not burn out anything.

Types of soldering irons for electronics

The main difference that helps separate electronics soldering irons into types is the type of heating element they use. Recently, production technology has made it possible to produce many varieties that differ from each other in characteristics.

Nichrome

The main heating element in such soldering irons is nichrome wire. The material conducts electrical impulses well, which allows the tip to be heated to the desired temperature quickly enough. Simple models have a spiral that is wound around a body that does not conduct electricity. To prevent the wire from losing heat, it is placed in insulators. Such models are most often used in household non-professional use.

Nichrome soldering iron

Flaws:

• A soldering iron for radio components with a nichrome heating element takes a long time to heat up;
• The spiral quickly burns out and has to be replaced.

Source: https://svarkaipayka.ru/oborudovanie/payalniki/dlya-payki-mikroshem.html

Soldering: what is solder, how to solder correctly, components for soldering

Neatly assembled green and brown circuit boards with colorful components look quite intriguing to electronics students and many new to the electronics world. They are usually eager to create an electronic project without knowing the basics.

 They often forget that to create an electronic circuit, you first need to learn how to solder, because the circuit will only work flawlessly if the solder connections are made perfectly.

 Learning how to solder properly should be the first step for all electronics newbies, and we'll learn how to do it here, but before that, let's understand a little about solder wire.

What is solder

The most obvious question that often comes to people's minds is what elements make up solder or solder wire. Solder is basically a 60:40 alloy of tin and lead with a dry flux sealed in its core. This ratio is considered the best in terms of quality. Low quality types may have varying ratios of tin content on the underside.

The correct melting temperature of the solder wire (about 250 degrees Celsius) is the hallmark of good quality solder. Standard quality is also determined by its gloss, low flux content and high conductivity.

It is used in printed circuit boards to secure inserted component leads with copper traces so that they are electrically connected.

When the solder wire and hot soldering iron tip touch together at the junction of the component wire and PCB trace, the solder wire instantly melts to “cement” the connection firmly and permanently.

The smoke produced during soldering is due to the burning of flux inside the solder wire core. Flux acts as a catalyst to remove impurities and improve the solder joint. This connection is ideally a very good conductor of electricity and is non-corrosive.

Education

With the help of the below guidelines, you can clearly understand how to solder:

• Buy a good quality (the more expensive the better) 25-watt soldering iron and soldering wire. Also purchase a general purpose PCB and a few passive components such as resistors and capacitors.
• When connecting a soldering iron to the soldering iron tip, it may take approximately 100 seconds for the soldering iron tip to reach the optimal temperature (250 degrees Celsius, which is the melting point of solder). Meanwhile, bend the leads of the resistors about 2 mm from the ends of its body.

• Since this is a learning procedure, first insert only one resistor into the holes of the common PCB, which exactly matches the length of the bent resistor.

• Hold the board with the inserted wires facing up or toward you. Lift the soldering iron with your right hand, and hold the soldering wire with the fingertips of your left hand so that about 7 cm of it protrudes from the finger handle.

• Now bring the hot tip of the soldering iron and the soldering wire to the base of the wire and the copper guide and make them touch the connection at the same time.

• The soldering wire will begin to melt immediately; keep pressing the wire until you find enough liquid to make a perfect connection. Smoothly lift the tip and wire away from the joint and allow the joint to harden.
• Insert and solder the remaining components in the same way.

The initial results may seem a little unprofessional, but through a gradual process, learning how to solder and practice, you will be able to master the technique and complete the procedure without errors.

Source: https://meanders.ru/osnovy-obuchenija-pajke.shtml

What is needed for soldering boards

One of the most reliable methods of connecting wires is soldering. This is a process in which the space between two conductors is filled with molten solder. In this case, the melting temperature of the solder must be lower than the melting temperature of the metals being joined. At home, soldering is most often used with a soldering iron - a small device powered by electricity. For normal operation, the power of the soldering iron must be at least 80-100 W.

What you need for soldering with a soldering iron

In addition to the soldering iron itself, you will need solders, rosin or fluxes; it is advisable to have a stand. While working, you may need a small file and small pliers.

Most often you have to solder copper wires, for example, on headphones, when repairing household appliances, etc.

Rosin and fluxes

To get a good connection between the wires, it is necessary to clean them of contaminants, including oxide film. While mono-cores can still be cleaned manually, multi-core conductors cannot be cleaned properly. They are usually treated with rosin or flux - active substances that dissolve contaminants, including oxide film.

Both rosin and fluxes work well, but fluxes are easier to use - you can dip a brush into the solution and quickly process the wires. You need to put a conductor in rosin, then heat it with a soldering iron so that the molten substance envelops the entire surface of the metal. The disadvantage of using fluxes is that if they remain on the wires (and they do), they gradually corrode the adjacent sheath. To prevent this from happening, all soldering areas must be treated - the remaining flux must be washed off with alcohol.

Solders and fluxes for soldering copper wires with a soldering iron

Rosin is considered a universal remedy, and fluxes can be selected depending on the metal you are going to solder. In the case of wires, this is copper or aluminum. For copper and aluminum wires, use LTI-120 flux or borax.

A homemade flux made from rosin and denatured alcohol (1 to 5) works very well, and it’s also easy to make with your own hands. Add rosin to the alcohol (preferably dust or very small pieces of it) and shake until dissolved.

Then this composition can be used to treat conductors and strands before soldering.

Solders for soldering copper wires with a soldering iron use POS 60, POS 50 or POS 40 - tin-lead. For aluminum, zinc-based compounds are more suitable. The most common are TsO-12 and P250A (made of tin and zinc), grade A (zinc and tin with the addition of copper), TsA-15 (zinc with aluminum).

Convenient to use solder with rosin

It is very convenient to use solders that contain rosin (POS 61). In this case, there is no need to pre-treat each conductor in rosin separately. But for high-quality soldering, you must have a powerful soldering iron - 80-100 W, which can quickly heat the soldering area to the required temperatures.

Auxiliary materials

In order to properly solder wires with a soldering iron, you also need:

Stand. It may be completely made of metal or have metal holders for a soldering iron attached to a wooden/plastic stand. It is also convenient if you have a small metal box for rosin.

It’s more convenient to solder with a soldering iron with a homemade or factory-made stand - not very important

This is how you need to sharpen the soldering iron tip

Pliers - to hold the wires

Alcohol may be required to wash off the flux, and electrical tape or heat-shrinkable tubes of various diameters for insulation. These are all the materials and tools without which soldering wires with a soldering iron is impossible.

Soldering process with an electric soldering iron

The entire technology of soldering wires with a soldering iron can be divided into several successive stages. All of them are repeated in a certain sequence:

• Training of conductors. When soldering wires, they are freed from insulation. After this, the oxide film is removed from them mechanically. You can use a small piece of fine-grit sandpaper. The metal should shine and be light.
• Tinning. Heat the soldering iron to the melting temperature of the rosin (it begins to actively melt when touched). Take a conductor, bring it to a piece of rosin, heat it with a soldering iron so that the entire stripped part of the wire is immersed in rosin. Then take a drop of solder onto the soldering iron tip and spread it over the treated part of the conductor. The solder spreads quickly, covering the wire with a thin layer. To make it distributed faster and more evenly, the wire is turned slightly. After tinning, copper conductors lose their redness and become silvery. This is how all wires that need to be soldered are processed.

That's all. In the same way, you can solder two or more wires, you can solder a wire to some contact pad (for example, when soldering headphones, you can solder the wire to a plug or to a pad on a headphone), etc.

After you have finished soldering the wires with a soldering iron and they have cooled down, the connection must be insulated. You can wrap electrical tape, put it on, and then heat up the heat shrink tube. When it comes to electrical wiring, it is usually recommended to first screw on a few turns of electrical tape, and then put a heat-shrinkable tube on top, which is heated.

Differences in technology when using flux

If active flux is used rather than rosin, the tinning process changes. The cleaned conductor is lubricated with the compound, and then heated with a soldering iron with a small amount of solder. Further everything is as described.

Soldering twists with flux - faster and easier

There are also differences when soldering twists with flux. In this case, you can not tin each wire, but twist it, then treat it with flux and immediately start soldering. The conductors don’t even need to be cleaned—the active compounds corrode the oxide film. But instead, you will have to wipe the soldering areas with alcohol to wash away the remnants of chemically aggressive substances.

Features of soldering stranded wires

The soldering technology described above is suitable for monocores. If the wire is multi-core, there are nuances: before tinning, the wires are untwisted so that everything can be dipped in rosin. When applying solder, you need to make sure that each wire is covered with a thin layer of solder. After cooling, the wires are twisted into one bundle again, then you can solder with a soldering iron as described above - dipping the tip into solder, heating the soldering area and applying tin.

When tinning, multi-core wires must be “fluffed”

Is it possible to solder copper wire to aluminum

Aluminum cannot be combined directly with other chemically active metals. Since copper is a chemically active material, copper and aluminum are not joined or soldered. The point is too different thermal conductivity and different current conductivity.

When current passes, aluminum heats up more and expands more. Copper heats up and expands much less.

Constant expansion/constriction to varying degrees leads to the fact that even the best contact is broken, a non-conducting film is formed, and everything stops working. That's why copper and aluminum are not soldered.

If there is such a need to connect copper and aluminum conductors, make a bolted connection. Take a bolt with a suitable nut and three washers. At the ends of the connected wires, rings are formed according to the size of the bolt. Take a bolt, put on one washer, then a conductor, another washer - the next conductor, a third washer on top and secure everything with a nut.

Source: https://MyTooling.ru/instrumenty/chto-nuzhno-dlja-pajki-plat

How to properly solder wires with a soldering iron, soldering video - Repair220

Soldering is widely used in the installation of various electrical circuits as a means of ensuring reliable electrical contact between the necessary parts. Wires, electrical components (light bulbs, resistors, capacitors, etc.), various electronic components (transistors, microcircuits, etc.) are subject to soldering. Let's try to figure it out in our article with a video on how to solder correctly.

The power of the soldering iron is selected in accordance with the size of the surfaces to be soldered. Power from 5 to 20 is suitable for soldering microcircuits and components that cannot be heated too much. A soldering iron with a power of up to 40-50 watts can be used for soldering wires, terminals, etc., i.e. for performing the most common electrical work. Soldering irons with a power of more than 50 watts are used to join metal surfaces larger than a few millimeters in size.

Before you start using the new soldering iron, you should prepare it for use. To do this, even before heating it, the soldering iron tip is cleaned to a metallic shine, thereby removing the oxide film from its surface. This must be done for high-quality servicing of the working surface of the tip. For this purpose, the soldering iron is heated, for which it is enough to plug in the electric soldering iron. A non-electric soldering iron is heated over an open flame.

During the heating process, it is necessary to dip the end of the tip into rosin or some other flux, after which you should touch a piece of solder (an alloy of tin and lead). A well-tinned tip has a tip that is evenly coated with solder and has a characteristically shiny, silvery appearance. Soldering should be done with a soldering iron heated to the temperature required for each type of soldering.

When soldering metal parts, it heats up more, and when soldering wires and electrical components, it heats up less.

The process of soldering wires generally includes the following chain of actions:

• prepare the soldered surfaces for soldering (remove the oxide film by mechanical cleaning or treatment with flux - rosin, soldering acid, etc.),
• touch the tip of a preheated soldering iron to rosin and solder so that the required amount is on the tip of the tip;
• Place the surfaces to be soldered against each other and touch this place with the soldering iron tip.

After heating the soldering area for a short time, the solder gets onto these surfaces. After wetting the soldering area with solder, the tip is removed from it and the solder is allowed to cool and harden.

It is important to keep the wire motionless, otherwise the soldering will be unreliable and fragile. To ensure soldering quality, it is recommended to remove any remaining flux from the soldering area.

If you use rosin, this can be done with an alcohol solvent using a brush. This operation will prevent further oxidation of the soldering area.

How to solder microcircuits correctly

Technologically, the process of soldering microcircuits is generally similar to that described above, but has its own characteristics. They are that:

• microcircuits do not allow overheating during the soldering process;
• Contact pads of microcircuits are, as a rule, small in size and their soldering does not allow excess tin in the soldering area.

These features are taken into account by the correct choice and high-quality preparation of the soldering iron. It is recommended to use a tool with a controlled and adjustable tip heating temperature. Correct selection of its value in specific conditions prevents overheating of microcircuits and the formation of intercontact parasitic solder bridges. Such jumpers can be microscopic in size and create unnecessary electrical contacts between the circuits of the mounted device.

We sincerely hope that our article with video helped you learn how to solder correctly.

How to solder copper wires correctly

Source: https://remont220.ru/stati/187-kak-pravilno-payat-payalnikom-provoda-video-payki/