How to sharpen an old razor

Sharper than a razor: how to sharpen knives correctly

Everyone has knives. Regardless of who you are—an experienced nymphomaniac who won’t go out on the street without three blades and a multi-tool, or an inveterate pacifist and non-resistance to violence—you definitely have a knife. If not with you, then at home in the kitchen. Or in the car. Expensive or cheap, warehouse, tourist, hunting, bought from a fashion catalogue, given to a friend “for a penny”, made in the zone or machined at a secret factory from a rocket nozzle - there are countless of them.

Typical “knife in the car just in case”

Three quarters of them are stupid. Sometimes you go with friends to the pampas, you need to cut something, and they’re like: “Oh! I have a knife in my glove compartment!” Something fearful is brought into the light of God, whose wit varies from “dumb as a Siberian felt boot” to “only used to cut up dead mongrels.” And what? They used this to open cans, chop nails on a dare, and pick at bricks. This is how it became. It’s easier for me - I always have a “folding bag” with me, for a quarter of a century now. And it's sharp.

Do you want the same? Learn to sharpen.

Sharpening and editing

First, let's separate these two concepts. Sharpening is the formation of a cutting edge (CR), and editing is needed to bring this edge to working condition. At high magnification, the cutting edge of a knife sharpened on a large block looks, frankly, unimportant and resembles a rock ridge eaten away by erosion.

Editing the paint using a fine abrasive allows you to bring this visual nightmare to a more or less decent state. The knife begins not only to cut, but also to shave (if, of course, you did everything correctly).

About the bars

The oldest and most common way to make a knife sharp is by hand sharpening on abrasive stones. A set of decent whetstones is necessary for any thoughtful knife lover, because it is not only a working tool, but also a reason for pride. For home and family, it is recommended to have two or three bars of different grain sizes, as well as a piece of leather rubbed with GOI paste for removing burrs (more on that another time) and final finishing of the blade.

Professional sharpeners, depending on their qualifications, can use up to a dozen natural stones of different characteristics, but the average person has no need for such delights.

Set of Japanese water stones of various grain sizes

In everyday life you can easily do without such a set. The cutting edge on the blade can be shaped quite successfully using a flat "velvet" file or a piece of sandpaper glued to a piece of wood. In “street” conditions, I even had to sharpen cheap Chinese knives on a concrete curb block, and edit them on river pellets.

Editing the blade on the belt

But this is completely extreme, and if you decide to master the “correct” manual sharpening, then for starters you can buy an inexpensive combined (double-sided) stone, which is now a dime a dozen in Chinese online stores. Their quality is uneven, but it is quite possible to find very decent samples. I don’t recommend using diamond-coated whetstones - they eat up the blade too much, and there’s a high chance of getting damaged.

How to do it manually?

Regardless of whether you decide to master manual sharpening or use small-scale mechanization means, the right thing to do is start with a block of the coarsest grain size and move on to finer ones. It is advisable to hold the knife perpendicular to the block.

The most important thing is to maintain the same angle of inclination of the blade to the surface at all times. Movements when sharpening should be uniform and monotonous. The sharpening stone and the surface on which it rests should not move.

To do this, you can put a piece of sheet rubber on the table, or, failing that, a moistened sheet of paper.

Grinding the first third of the knife edge "G. SakaiFoldingHunter" on a 600 grit water stone (before starting work, a block of natural stone is soaked in water for 15 minutes, and then its surface is lubricated with soapy water)

Don’t forget to periodically check how much metal is being removed from the handle, and don’t press the knife too hard - the pressing force against the block should be small but constant. Moving the knife away from you or towards you is a matter of taste; to save time, I do it in both directions. To begin with, you should practice using a regular board instead of a sharpening stone, and, say, a short ruler instead of a knife. Hands will remember.

Many consider the sharpening process to be a kind of movement meditation; in principle, that’s how it is. The need for constant control and concentration on the task at hand forces you to disconnect from external factors. It turns out to be a kind of zen.

About angles

Holding a knife at the desired angle while sharpening is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. And what is this corner like? For the vast majority of the inexpensive knives mentioned above, the sharpening angle is 20-30 degrees.

There are many ways to “calculate with your hands” the desired tilt of the blade; The simplest one is to fold a sheet of thick paper into a triangle, one fold is 45 degrees, the second is half as much, 22.5.

 We place the resulting pyramid on the block, carefully press the blade against it and remember the tilt and position of the hands.

20-25 degrees is a good angle for a well-worn carbon Opinel

For the same purposes, you can use special wooden corners or several coins glued with superglue. Or simply buy a special clip for the blade, which will prevent the edge from being too “collapsed”.

True, if the steel is completely “plasticine”, they try to increase the angle as much as thirty-five degrees - cutting such a product will be quite lousy, but it will take a long time. Here you can also play with a sheet of paper, but you will have to fold it not in four, but in three - as a result you will get a corner with a working side close to 33 degrees.

For soft steels there is another trick: the angle is maintained around 30 degrees, but one side of the cutting edge is smoothed almost “into a mirror”, and the other is sharpened on a rough, coarse-grained whetstone. This method is popularly called “gypsy”; at the industrial level, it degenerated into the notorious “laser-sharpened knives” (although, of course, there was no smell of laser there).

Small teeth on one side, a smooth surface on the other, and even the top layer of steel is carburized to increase hardness - it cuts well until it gets dull. For cheap domestic stainless steels such as 40X13, 65X13 or the favorite of Chinese manufacturers 420J2, this method works well - try it yourself.

I don’t want to study, I want it straight away!

Japanese masters said: “Out of a hundred students sent to be sharpeners, only one has the ability, and out of a hundred capable ones, only one will become a decent master.”

Well, they are all to hell with this approach! After all, the meat for shish kebab needs to be cut right now!

So, if you are learning Zen in other ways, or you don’t have enough time/patience, or, finally, you suffer from an acute form of upper limb aphedronality, don’t despair. Especially for such cases, there are a lot of simple but effective devices that help keep the cutting tool in very good condition.

Twenty years ago, the pioneer and main manufacturer of such devices was the American company Lansky; its Lansky Sharpening System (LSS) set was a kind of standard on the market. Today, our dear Chinese comrades offer exact copies of the “system” at half or three times the price. The stones, of course, are of a lower grade, but otherwise the thing is quite suitable.

American and Chinese sets - the choice is yours

And here's how they sharpen it:

As you can see, everything is very simple and effective. Anyone can do it. However, more complex sharpening devices are now available, real machines with a bunch of adjustments and replaceable whetstones.

But LSS remains a timeless classic. In our area it was dubbed the “Lansky corner” - and be careful not to confuse it with the “Lansky flyer”. The flyer is also a simple device from the same company and it also helps in maintaining the sharpness of the knife. However, it is not suitable for sharpening, but for editing it is the sweetest thing. “CrockStick” are two pairs of metal-ceramic rods of different grain sizes in a wooden box-stand.

Place a pair of rods at the desired angle, take the knife with your “working hand”, and hold the base of the sharpener with your weak hand. Hold the pre-sharpened blade vertically and move it downwards, as if cutting a piece of sausage - the cermet will quickly bring the edge to a razor sharpness.

The “corner + flyer” pair is an almost ideal option for anyone who doesn’t want to bother with bars. However, there are a lot of “bagels” on the market now, from famous manufacturers to budget Chinese. Choose according to your taste and wallet.

Other knife blades

Manual and mechanical, of various designs - the knife-loving public has come up with a lot of things, but personally I respect only two varieties.

Firstly, the grinder. This is a belt surface grinding machine that allows you to perform a variety of operations - from sharpening a blade to making a knife (and other useful things made of wood and metal) in general.

Making a grinder with your own hands is especially chic; many topics are devoted to this on specialized forums. With proper practice, sharpening a knife with this device is literally a matter of minutes. I don't have a grinder, but I want one. Of course, there is nowhere to put it, but I still want to.

Secondly, musat. In essence, it is a round (less often semicircular or oval) file with a very fine notch. Musats are made of steel (including diamond-coated) and metal-ceramic.

Despite all its primitiveness, it is the musat that is the primary tool for straightening knives in the kitchen. However, it all depends on practice: in the same way, it is necessary to maintain a constant correct angle in relation to the blade. Whether to steer the blade towards yourself or away from you is your own choice. The main thing is to develop the correct movement.

I almost never use other “sharpeners” and don’t see much point in them. It will be interesting - I'll tell you next time.

What if there is nothing at hand?

Plate. An ordinary plate. A favorite topic and one of the favorite knife myths is “the steel on the knife must be soft so that it can be sharpened on a bowl.” The Uzbek pchak, which is cited as an example, is in fact far from an ideal knife, both in design and in steel, but in the Soviet Union it was one of the few national knives that could be purchased without fear of criminal prosecution.

Ay, hit me on the hands, I'm slipping into extraneous topics again

A ceramic plate is not particularly suitable for sharpening; it is more suitable for straightening, but in fact it is a fine-grained abrasive. Average “kill” “Victorinox”, “Keys”, “Okapi” and so on (that is, knives with a short blade length and relatively soft steel) can be brought to a very decent condition in 15-20 minutes. Be sure to make sure that there are no chips or gouges on the bottom that will damage the metal.

Carefully, without unnecessary pressure (so that the blade does not bend), strictly observing the angle, move the edge along the bottom and after a quarter of an hour enjoy the fruits of your labor. During the process, the plate will have to be turned - the pores in it quickly become clogged with metal particles, so that the cutting edge stops grinding.

Let’s say, you won’t be able to bring a knife with such a tool to the point of “cutting along the hair on the fly,” but you can confidently cut a sheet of paper.

No matter how the gentlemen perfectionists wrinkle their noses (who don’t feed them bread, but let them rape every piece of iron with a full set of Japanese water stones from 300 to 20 thousand grit inclusive), it is precisely this status - “cuts paper” - that allows you to classify your knife as sharp.

Also suitable for straightening a soft, dull blade are the side glass of a car door, an oak or beech board, a leather belt (even without special pastes applied) - and you’ll learn a lot more with experience.

Finally, a few tips for those who want to master manual sharpening. If you use natural or artificial stones (I'm not talking about diamond stones and grinders), remember: NEVER SHARPEN DRY. Be sure to wet the work surface. Sharpening stones can be water or oil, be sure to use these liquids according to the instructions.

Start your training not with the most expensive or dullest knife in the house, but with a cheap and moderately dull one. This will make it easier to see mistakes and achieve the desired result. But if you screw it up, it’s no big deal.

And of course, don't lose patience. Ninety percent of sharpening is your skill and knowledge, and the tool only accounts for the remaining ten percent. Everything will work out for you - and may your knife always be sharp.

Source: https://warhead.su/2019/05/20/ostree-britvy-kak-pravilno-tochit-nozhi

Sharpening a straight razor with a stone and straightening it with a belt at home

With active use, the straight razor becomes dull. To restore the sharpness of the device, straightening on the belt is enough, but in some cases you will have to sharpen it on a stone. This process is very different from sharpening other objects, for example, a knife or scissors. Sharpening must be done very carefully, because the quality of the shave depends on it.

How to choose a straight razor belt

It is necessary to distinguish between the process of sharpening and straightening, because in the first case, part of the metal blade is removed, and in the second, burrs and irregularities in the surface of the tip are polished. To maintain the blade in proper condition, you will need a small set of tools. A belt for straightening a straight razor is a must-have accessory for all owners of this tool. There are several options for this product:

• hanging;
• with wooden handles.

The first ones are popular because a person can independently regulate the tension. The best models are those with a width that covers the entire blade, so that the entire blade fits, and it’s better to even have a small margin so that the surface is processed evenly. Options on a solid base are good because the tension will always be the same, this is especially useful for beginners in this matter.

As a rule, after sharpening on a stone, the belt is edited using a special paste. You need to pay attention to product options that have already been pasted directly at the factory. There are offers that have paste on one side and clean skin on the other. Craftsmen prefer to apply it themselves; you can purchase options from different manufacturers.

As a rule, sharpening of a straight razor is carried out at the factory. If desired, the buyer can make adjustments on the belt to bring the blade to the desired sharpness. A whetstone should be used only if the blade has really deteriorated or been damaged. There are different stones for sharpening a straight razor; many manufacturers offer different versions of the material that copes with its task better than others.

At the moment, synthetic versions of stones are more popular. They are well suited for sharpening and have a relatively low price in relation to the quality obtained. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• the product must confidently hold its shape;
• there should not be a lot of suspension released;
• the surface must be fine-grained and uniform;
• the stone should not have agglomerates (dense lumps);
• the bar size 50x150 is considered optimal, but you can also find 70x200, 60x180.

How to sharpen a straight razor

Sharpening a straight razor requires some skill on the part of a person; it is possible that it will not work out right the first time. The blade of the tool is very sensitive: if the direction of movement is incorrect, the angle changes, chips, irregularities, etc. may appear. To get the hang of your hand and learn how to sharpen with a stone correctly, it will take time to adjust the belt, but with each subsequent time it will turn out better.

A straight razor sharpening stone is used in rare cases when serious damage to the blade has occurred. It cannot be done often, but if necessary, you need to follow the following algorithm:

1. Wet the stone with water.
2. Hold the instrument with your index finger and thumb.
3. Press down on the ridge (“spine”) and the tip of the blade at the same time.
4. Move the razor along the stone.
5. At the end of the stone, turn the razor over and press in the same way, but with the other side. Be sure to turn over the ridge (blunt side) so as not to damage the blade.
6. Using the same movement, we move the tool in the other direction.

The process doesn't look very complicated, but it is important to maintain an angle and keep the blade pressed against the block to avoid damaging the surface. Important points to pay attention to:

• the pressing force should be small, but you must constantly maintain contact between the entire plane of the razor and the surface of the stone;
• when moving forward and backward, the pressing force should be the same so that the blade is sharpened evenly;
• To avoid scratching the comb, cover it with electrical tape.

With a belt

It is not entirely correct to say that a belt is used to sharpen a straight razor; it would be more correct to say that it is correct. Often, products have clean leather on one side and, for example, fabric with minimal grain on the other. For every 50 passes on leather, you need to do 15 on fabric. To edit the belt, you need to monitor the tension and the angle of the working surface. The process is carried out as follows:

1. Place the blade flat on the surface.
2. Pull along the ridge part forward.
3. There should be slight pressure to prevent the edge from bending.
4. When you reach the extreme point, repeat the movement in the opposite direction.
5. Do not move too quickly, as this can directly cause damage to the belt and your fingers.

What care does a dangerous blade require between sharpenings?

Such a sophisticated instrument requires special care, which determines its service life. After each use, be sure to rinse the razor with water and dry thoroughly until completely dry. The device should be stored in a dry, ventilated place to allow recovery (metal rest). If you do not use the tool very often, it is recommended to treat the blade with paraffin oil.

The condition of the razor is affected by the frequency of its use, therefore, with daily use, the tool will fail quickly. In such cases, it is recommended to have several spare devices so that you can use them alternately. This will help extend their service life. Under no circumstances should you drop the razor, because even small chips on a thin blade will ruin the quality of the shave; the device will scratch the skin and pull out hair.

Reviews

Vladimir, 38 years old: I always liked it when in films about cowboys they came to the barbershop specifically to shave. For this purpose, I bought myself a “safety guard”, but I didn’t think that it was so sensitive. Incorrect use quickly leads to damage to the blade, so I also bought myself a sharpening belt. I definitely use it once every 2-3 months.

Anton, 40 years old: I use a straight razor depending on my mood, because shaving on my own in front of a mirror is not very convenient. I’ve had it for almost a year now and during all this time I’ve used the belt once (the seller recommended immediately buying it together with it). The sharpening process is not very difficult: you just need to hold it at the right angle.

Vlad, 20 years old: Since childhood, I wanted to buy myself a “danger” when I got a mustache and beard, but getting to know it didn’t go as smoothly as I would have liked. I cut myself many times, shaving took a lot of time, and in the end I was dissatisfied with the result. It turned out that the razor was poorly sharpened. My father showed me how to use the belt and the next time everything turned out much better.

Source: http://hairproblem.ru/385-zatochka-opasnoi-britvy.html

How to sharpen an electric razor: complete instructions - Men's portal

An excellent life hack for all representatives of the stronger sex. This thing called marketing forces us to use certain things in a certain way: chew two chew pads instead of one; apply a full toothbrush of toothpaste, not a pea-sized amount; and buying new razors instead of learning how to sharpen them. Yes, yes, this can also be done.

But today OFFICEPLANKTON will look at a great way to save on shaving and avoid buying new shaving machines. By the way, you can try this method with replaceable cartridges for a razor.

Today in our article we will talk about the representatives of the stronger sex, or more precisely, about what they have to do with their appearance on a daily basis in order to look well-groomed and attractive. Did you guess it? You are right, we will talk about the daily, so boring, shaving procedure. Let's look at how to shave, what to shave with, and even reveal little secrets.

How to sharpen a straight razor

The main item of personal hygiene for many centuries in a row for representatives of the stronger sex has been a razor.

The first special device for hair removal was a straight razor. It’s not without reason that it got its name: if handled improperly, you can easily cut the skin or even damage an artery.

It was often shown in crime films as a tool for committing crimes, and English gentlemen carried it with them as a means of protection. This razor needs to be sharpened before each use.

We bring to your attention some tips when purchasing it.

The blade should be wide, with a rounded head; it is difficult for even a beginner to cut himself with such a blade. And the wider the blade, the easier it is to choose a comfortable shaving angle. When choosing a handle, you should pay attention to the quality of the material. Typically, plastic handles are not durable. And don’t forget to check the mobility of the razor in the handle case.

It should expand 270 degrees. Particular attention should be paid to the manufacturer so as not to run into a Chinese counterfeit. The main feature of a high-quality razor is a uniform, deeply engraved mark on the surface of the blade.

And don’t forget to buy a special shaving kit, which consists of a belt for straightening and sharpening the razor, as well as a shaving brush.

Let's start the procedure:

So we come to the issue of sharpening a straight razor (honing). In factories, as a rule, only the blade is shaped, and editing and sharpening is the work of specially trained people. But you can learn on your own.

The simplest method is sharpening on a water stone. You just need to moisten the stone with water and run the blade along the block. You need to drive away from yourself and towards yourself, changing the blade sides, and moving the blade itself perpendicular to the stone.

You can also sharpen your razor with ceramic sharpening stones. In this case, you can sharpen the razor either wet or dry.

The cheapest and fastest way is to sharpen it with sandpaper. Please note that the sandpaper should ONLY be the finest grit.

Once the razor is sharpened, all that remains is to trim it before shaving.

Why and how to edit a straight razor

If the razor is only sharpened, but not straightened, then during shaving due to the beveled blade and jagged edges, you can seriously cut yourself. Now all that remains is to bring it to perfection with the help of a smooth leather belt. A wider belt is best so that the blade fits completely on the belt.

Next, GOI paste is applied to the leather of the belt, and you can straighten it. The movements for editing are exactly the same as for sharpening the blade. In this case, the belt should be well tensioned and without distortions. Once you have adjusted the razor, you can proceed to one of the favorite men's methods of dealing with stubble.

After shaving, wash the razor with hot water and wipe dry. Beginners should remember that a well-sharpened guard will last 2-3 months.

How to sharpen a disposable razor

As a rule, the blades of a disposable razor very quickly become unusable. Even the highest quality and most expensive razors become dull very quickly. It's all about the cartridges and their design.

You have to throw them away and buy new ones. With the advent of disposable and reusable (with replaceable cassettes) machines, people completely forgot about the sharpening method. Advertising and marketing showed us a new way to solve the problem - you can simply throw away the cartridge and buy a new one. After all, throwing it away and buying a new one is much easier, and not at all troublesome.

However, this solution has a significant drawback - good cassettes are expensive, and it is not always possible to buy it, but you always need to look presentable, and the “presentable” prices in supermarkets for new blades perfectly confirm the unprofitability of this solution to the problem.

Therefore, we suggest not throwing away disposable machines, but simply cleaning and sharpening them)

We sharpen a disposable machine on your jeans.

Sharpening a disposable machine on jeans.

We bring to your attention a trick that will make your razor blade 10 times sharper in just a few minutes.
The method is simple and cheap - we will sharpen it on ordinary jeans. The essence of the method is that during use, small deformations appear on the blades that cling to the skin and bristles. So we will get rid of them.

So let's get started:

1 The blade must be dry.

2 Turn the jeans inside out and lay them out on a flat surface. Place some flat object under them, the width of which should be less than the length of the cutting part in the cassette, since there are protrusions along the edges of the cassette that will not allow you to sharpen the blade.

3 Place the cassette blade on a flat object and move it across the fabric AWAY from yourself with slight pressure. AGAIN - the directions of movements should be the opposite of the movements with which you shave. So we do it 50 times in one direction. Then we turn the razor around and similarly grind the cassette in the other direction. That's it, quick, easy and quite effective.

This way you will not only save money, but also have a clean shave.

By sharpening cassettes in this way, you can significantly extend their service life. In addition, do not forget to use a needle or toothpick to clean the space between the blades, freeing it from accumulated bristles.

If you feel sorry for your favorite jeans and are afraid to take a risk, then you can use a strip of leather of the required width. Please note the method of sharpening and stropping with a leather straight razor belt.

Only sharpen the razor on the back, unpainted side of the skin. Sharpening occurs somewhat faster than on fabric. 20-30 passes in one direction will be enough.

There is no need to sharpen in the opposite direction, as with jeans.

Just in case: some tips on how to shave properly

1 Shaving should not be done hastily. The procedure should take an average of 3-4 minutes. This is necessary so that the foam has time to soften the skin and hairs. And enough time to shave each area of ​​skin carefully step by step.

2 Before you begin, you need to wet your face with warm water. You can also use foam. This will avoid micro-cuts and the blade will glide easily.

3 After washing, pat your face lightly with a towel or do not wipe it at all; it should be damp - not dry. Dry skin is susceptible to foam, and basic irritation can occur.

4 You need to shave slowly, carefully and carefully, with a minimum degree of pressure.

5 Shaving occurs strictly along, and not against, the hair growth.

6 After the procedure, do not forget to wash your face with cold water and apply aftershave balm to your face. They are usually not too expensive and are great for soothing the skin. Well, as a bonus, a pleasant smell is guaranteed.

Source: https://portalman.ru/kak-zatochit-elektrobritvu-polnaya-instrukciya.html

Sharpening and sharpening any knife sharper than a razor: the dullest knife cuts paper like clockwork

How to sharpen any knife to a razor-sharp state - every man must know and do this.

As experienced professionals will agree with me, the most important thing in properly sharpening any knives is to hit and maintain the angle of the cutting edge.

That is, a man, and as a rule, most knives are sharpened by men, must have straight hands, absolutely straight. The hand does not wander or twitch and the keen eye is in place.

How do you sharpen knives?

There are special tools in the form of professional sharpening. These are real machines for sharpening and straightening knives of any type. But as always, everything “tasty and worthwhile” costs a lot of money. What did you want?

The cheapest is, of course, on AliExpress (from 800 rubles and above), but such sharpening machines are also produced in our country. The price ranges from 3 to 30 thousand rubles. They come with a set of sharpening stones.

The simplest knife sharpener is an ordinary stone of various grain sizes.

How to sharpen a kitchen knife like a razor at home?

Sharpening any, even a “tightly killed” knife to a razor, is a matter of a few minutes right at home. After some manipulation, any dull knife will become sharper than a razor and will cut paper like clockwork.

A slightly dull blade can be corrected using a leather belt. A dull one should already be “straightened” on a machine or with the help of sharpening stones. And the outdated “dead” knife must be revived again - the cutting edge must be reapplied.

When sharpening knives, you should have at least several stones of different grain sizes (they should be soaked in water before starting work). And a soap solution (in extreme cases, ordinary water) - it is necessary to lubricate the stone and remove the result of work from the stone.

I repeat, the knife should be held at the same angle when sharpening. Move the blade back and forth, starting slowly, and then quickly as you get used to it.

To avoid damaging the stone and making a hole in the middle, sharpen along its entire length. Check for burrs - you need to ensure that first there are burrs on one side, and then on the other.

So with every stone.

What stone and what grit should you start sharpening knives with?

It’s up to you to decide what stone to start sharpening with and what grit size, since it’s individual. Depends on the softness and hardness of the steel, and on the height of the cutting edge.

Mild steel (such as Japanese knives) is sharpened 400-1000-3000 (measured according to the Japanese system - grit). For European knives with harder steel - 400-800-1500 grit.

The final touch is sharpening with Goi paste.

Useful and interesting: A way to avoid getting lost in the forest and get to your place, knowing just one number - 100% accurate.

I found a video on YouTube where our colleague in his favorite pastime (fishing), fisherman Romario Agro, in his video shows the principle of sharpening and straightening knives. Spend your precious time watching this useful video:

He himself says that this is not a panacea - it should not be taken as a lesson from a professional, but it certainly won’t hurt to listen, let alone take a look.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFmLA3pet7k

I believe that every man should know and be able to sharpen a knife! are welcome.

Source: https://ryba-lka.ru/zatochka-i-pravka-lyubogo-nozha-ostree-britvy-v-domashnix-usloviyax/