How to harden a spring at home

Hardening a spring at home

Almost every home craftsman knows that it is possible to make a spring from almost any wire and successfully use it in everyday life. Basically, there are no problems with making the part yourself. However, sometimes situations arise in which it is necessary to either make a spring of non-standard dimensions, or give it increased strength and elasticity.

To do this, you should resort to heat treatment operations. It is quite possible to harden a spring at home. It goes without saying that a homemade part should not be used in particularly critical devices operating under increased load. For such purposes, it is recommended to use factory-made springs.

But for home use in a device operating in a lightweight mode, the technology in question is quite suitable.

Required tools and materials

In order to make and harden a wire spring with your own hands, you need:

• Steel wire. The diameter is selected based on the necessary characteristics of the future product.
• Ordinary gas burner.
• Metalworking tools: pliers, hammer, etc.
• Vise.
• Stove. This may be, if available, a special one or an ordinary household one.

Additional devices that are selected individually in accordance with the size and stiffness of the spring can facilitate the process of winding the spiral.

If the use and hardening is intended to be made from wire with a diameter of less than 2 millimeters, then it may not be preheated. It will bend without any problems without this operation. However, before starting winding, it is recommended to straighten it along its entire length and completely level it.

When using wire with a diameter of more than 2 millimeters, it should be burned before starting work. Without this operation, aligning and winding it will be problematic.

Features of the operation

• The right foundation is the key to success. In factory conditions, an alloy of non-ferrous metals (65G, 60HFA, 60S2A, 70SZA, Br. B2), alloy or carbon steel is used for production. During home production, the optimal base will be an old spring of the required diameter.
• A special furnace is best suited for annealing. If this is not available, brick or metal will do.
• For cooling after heating, it is recommended to use transformer oil. If it is not available, a spindle will do.

Sequencing

1. Before tempering the spring wire, you should check the base material and make sure that the wire used is carbon steel.

2. The annealing procedure, as mentioned earlier, can add plasticity. This will make the process of alignment and winding onto the mandrel easier. You can use a special oven or any suitable oven for this.

In everyday life, it is possible to harden in the most suitable structure (metal or brick). To do this, a regular fire is lit and then the future spring is placed in the coal. After heating the workpiece red-hot, the wire must be removed and allowed to cool naturally.

The cooled wire will be much softer and you can work with it comfortably.

3. The softened wire should be completely aligned and begin winding onto a mandrel of a suitable diameter. During the procedure, you need to control the tight arrangement of the turns to each other. To make it easier, you can use a screwdriver.

4. To impart the required elasticity, hardening will be required. Thanks to this heat treatment, the part is harder and more durable. Hardening springs involves heating them to a temperature of 830 to 870 degrees. To do this, you can use a gas burner. Earlier we talked about hardening metal at home.

It is unlikely that you will find a suitable thermometer at home that can accurately determine the temperature of a part. Therefore, you can navigate by the color of the metal. When the required temperature is reached, the workpiece will turn light red. We recommend watching a video with a detailed description of the heating temperature. After this, the spring is placed in a cooling medium (oil).

5. Afterwards, the hardened spring must be kept in a compressed state. This requires from 20 to 40 hours.

6. Finally, process and adjust to the required dimensions.

Correct implementation of such hardening will allow you to successfully use the spring in home mechanisms.

Hardening - spring

Springs are hardened in oil, regardless of what steel, alloy or carbon, they are made of. After hardening, the springs are tempered.

To obtain a uniform structure and equal hardness along the entire length of the spring, tempering should certainly be carried out in saltpeter baths or in shaft furnaces with artificial air mixing.

Very often, springs released in chamber furnaces broke during operation due to unequal hardness at different points. [1]

The springs are hardened in oil. [2]

Springs are hardened in oil after heating them to a temperature of 850 - 860°C and holding at this temperature for 15 - 20 minutes. The duration of the vacation is 30 - 40 minutes. [3]

Springs made from these steels are hardened in water or oil. [4]

When hardening springs made of 3X13 wire using the described device, warping defects were completely eliminated. [5]

Source: https://MyTooling.ru/instrumenty/zakalka-pruzhiny-v-domashnih-uslovijah

How to bend a spring at home

Everything is clear with circumcision, tell me how to bend it later? I heard that they heat it with a burner and bend it with a pipe. Can anyone tell me more details?

20

Yes ush, and then for these 4000 thousand, buy normal ammonia, otherwise there’s no point, if you don’t mind the stock ammo and don’t have a lot of dough, cut it, so as not to be critical, tie it up, where to go.
no need to bend the coil, it’s somehow doubtful

You heat it with a cutter, then bend it with ordinary pliers and let it cool in the open air and there will be no problem with it, but there is one caveat - the shorter the spring, the stiffer it should be, otherwise breakdown is inevitable. By the way, at our market we have a set of springs -50 from 4000 rubles.

A friend of mine a long time ago heated it with a gas cutter and cooled it in oil, and nothing broke, as many here write, I myself have been riding on cut springs for 2 years and I haven’t bent anything and nothing is breaking)

plusadin, collective farmers detected, did not bend anything.
8 tyr for a set of springs -30 = fuck you, I bought an angle grinder ten times cheaper for my use forever

There is no need to bend, you need to buy rubber spacers for the springs, the shelf in them is slanted, just for the coil of the spring. www.alexdcar.narod.ru/2126/foto/prostav/03.jpg

There’s no way you can bend it, only at the factory, where they can harden it back later. In general, cutting springs is a UG from the very beginning.

you need to cut the spring a couple of turns, but they say that if you don’t bend it, it might break off, you need to saw it off in order to do the opposite, get rid of the UG

Why this collective farm at all?

On the contrary, we need to get rid of the collective farm

cut springs are basically shit!
) and you also want to bend

There are many different shortened springs sold for viburnum, are there really no suitable ones?! o_0 and in extreme cases you can make it to order!

If you heat a spring, then its current is thrown into the trash later, but are they like a barrel on the Volga?

not on the Volga but on Kalina

If you heat a spring, then its current is thrown into the trash later, but are they like a barrel on the Volga?

Local heating will not spoil the spring, especially since you can wrap a wet cloth

tried) - they spoiled it
for viburnum, there are already understated ones

Damn, how did the depravity manifest itself?

it became very soft, if for example I put 3 in the back on my -50 sawn ones, then the car sags by 1-1.5 cm, then it immediately went out onto the beam)

Source: https://moreremonta.info/strojka/kak-sognut-pruzhinu-v-domashnih-uslovijah/

Hardening springs at home - Machine tools, welding, metalworking

Springs are elastic structural elements that serve to accumulate or dissipate mechanical energy. They surround us on all sides - under the keys of the computer keyboard, in the car suspension and in the lifting mechanism of the sofa. The most common are coil compression springs. There are several ways to make them.

How to make a spring

Coil compression springs

Elastic elements can have different spatial forms. Historically, the first springs mastered by man were leaf springs. You can still see them today - these are springs on heavy-duty trucks. With the development of technology, people have learned to make more compact coil springs that work in compression. In addition to them, spatial elastic elements are also used.

Coil springs

Design Features

During operation, such springs take a load along their axis. In the initial position, there are gaps between their turns.

The applied external force deforms the spring, its length decreases until the coils touch. From this moment on, the spring is an absolutely rigid body.

As the external force decreases, the shape of the product begins to return to its original shape until it is completely restored when the load disappears.

The main characteristics describing the geometry of the part are:

• The diameter of the rod from which the spring is wound.
• Number of turns.
• Winding step.
• External diameter of the part.

The external shape may differ from cylindrical and represent one of the figures of rotation: cone, barrel (ellipsoid) and others

The winding pitch can be constant or variable. The winding direction is clockwise and counterclockwise.

Spring device

The cross-section of the turns can be round, flat, square, etc.

The ends of the turns are ground down to a flat shape.

Operating area

Cylindrical coil springs of constant outer diameter and constant pitch are used more widely than others. They are used in areas such as

• Mechanical engineering.
• Instrumentation.
• Vehicles.
• Mining industry.
• Appliances .

and in other industries.

Use of springs in everyday life

The following properties are required for the work to function effectively:

• high strength;
• plastic;
• elasticity;
• wear resistance.

To ensure the design values ​​of these parameters, it is necessary to correctly select the material, accurately calculate the dimensions, develop and follow the manufacturing technology.

State standards determine the requirements for the manufacture of springs. According to permissible deviations, they belong to one of the accuracy groups:

• less than 5%;
• less than 10%;
• less than 20%.

Schematic representation of a spring

Strict requirements are imposed on the accuracy of geometry and surface cleanliness.

Products with scratches and other external defects that reduce the resource of the product and its service life do not meet the standard

Material requirements

The strength parameters and fault tolerance of a product are largely determined by the material from which it was decided to be made. Metallurgists distinguish special spring steels in the classification of steels.

They have a specific crystal structure, determined both by the chemical composition and the heat treatment of the products.

Highly alloyed alloys of increased purity and high metallurgical quality provide high elasticity and ductility, and are able to retain their physical and mechanical properties after repeated deformations.

Spring alloys 60S2A, 50HFA and stainless steel 12Х18Н10Т have gained popularity among mechanism designers.

Features of the technology

The technological process for manufacturing elastic elements depends on the technical requirements for the design. Making a spring is not as easy as an ordinary part, which should not have special elastic properties. This requires special equipment and equipment.

Winding of springs with a round coil section is carried out using the following methods:

• Cold. Suitable for small and medium sizes (wire diameter up to 8 mm).
• Hot. For large diameters.

Spring coiling technology

After winding, the elastic elements are subjected to various types of heat treatment. During this process, the product acquires the specified properties.

Cold coiling technology without hardening

First you need to do preparatory operations. Before a workpiece is wound from wire, it is subjected to a patenting procedure. It consists in heating the material to the plasticity temperature. This operation prepares the wire for the upcoming change in shape.

During the winding operation the following parameters must be maintained:

• External diameter of the product (for some parts the internal diameter is standardized).
• Number of turns.
• Winding pitch.
• The total length of the part, taking into account subsequent operations.
• Compliance with the geometry of the end turns.

Cold coiling without tempering

Next, the end turns are ground down to a flat state. This must be done to ensure high-quality support for other structural parts, to prevent their destruction and the spring from slipping out.

The next stage of the technological process is heat treatment. Cold coiling of springs involves only tempering at low temperatures. It allows you to increase elasticity and relieve mechanical stresses that arise during winding.

It is extremely important to strictly adhere to the design heat treatment schedule, carefully controlling temperature and holding time.

After heat treatment, it is necessary to carry out test and control operations.

Further, if necessary, protective coatings can be applied to prevent corrosion. If they were applied by galvanic method, the products are reheated to reduce the hydrogen content in the surface layer.

Cold coiling technology with quenching and tempering

The first stages of the technology coincide with the previous process. Changes begin at the heat treatment stage. It is carried out in several stages:

• Hardening. The workpiece is heated to a given temperature and held for 2 to 3 hours. Next, it is subjected to rapid cooling by immersing it in a container with mineral oil or saline solution. During the hardening stage, the workpieces must be in a horizontal position. This will avoid deformation
• Vacation. The workpiece is heated to 200-300° and kept for several hours to relieve internal stresses and improve elastic properties.

Further measuring and control operations are also carried out. The workpieces that have passed the inspection are sent for sandblasting to remove scale. If necessary, shot blasting should also be done to increase the strength of the surface layer of the metal.

The process is completed by applying a protective coating.

Hot coiling technology with quenching and tempering

Before winding, the workpiece is heated to plasticity temperature using one of the following methods

• muffle furnace;
• gas-burner;
• high frequency heating.

Next, the workpiece is supplied to the coiling equipment. The geometry is adjusted and flat ends are formed.

Heat treatment includes hardening and low-temperature tempering.

Heat treatment schedules are constructed based on the properties of the material and the dimensions of the workpiece.

Operating mode of the quenching and tempering furnace line

Next comes the control and measuring stage. Manufacturing is completed by applying anti-corrosion protection.

Equipment and fixtures used

To make an elastic element, specialized equipment is required. These are winding machines. You can make a part on a regular lathe, but it will require additional equipment with special equipment. Medium and large series are produced on semi-automatic machines that operate with minimal operator intervention. You can also make a spring from wire by hand. This will also require special equipment.

At the next stage of machining, the ends are ground on face grinding machines. For single production or small series, this can be done with a grinding wheel.

Heat treatment is carried out using mandrels that prevent product deformation in specialized furnaces for hardening and tempering. Both operations can be done in a universal oven.

Equipment and fixtures used

For quality control, load installations and measuring systems are used. In case of single production, measurements can be made with a universal tool.

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Source: https://stanki-info.com/zakalka-pruzhin-v-domashnih-usloviyah/

How to properly harden metal: methodology, recommendations, heat treatment at home and at the stake

The need to harden steel can arise at any time. There are a large number of different tools sold on the market that may not have been hardened during manufacture or, on the contrary, were overdone with the temperature during heat treatment. For example, you can recall the well-known drill bits. If the steel is not properly hardened, it will bend. If the steel is too hardened, the drill will most likely begin to crumble.

A similar description applies to any steel materials. Naturally, it won’t be possible to check metal in a store. In this case, there is only one option left, we are talking about hardening steel at home.

Checking metal for quality at home

The first step after purchasing a metal item is to check its quality. This can be done using a simple soldering iron. The end of the soldering iron is passed over the metal to identify defects when developing the tool.

If the soldering iron sticks to the surface, it means the steel is not hardened, and with frequent use the tool will become deformed. If, on the contrary, the tip of the soldering iron passes smoothly over the steel and almost bounces off it, then the metal is too hardened.

In this case, you need to heat treat the steel tool to increase its strength.

Hardening technique

On the Internet you can find a large number of methods and videos of hardening metal objects, but most of them require special equipment, but there are ways that help improve the quality of steel using improvised means.

First you need to determine what steel hardening is. The main process is divided into two parts, or more precisely, heating the metal to a high temperature and subsequent cooling.

The process looks simple only at first glance, but you have to take into account the structure and characteristics of the metal . If you start heating the steel without analyzing it, the material will most likely deform.

Deformation occurs especially often with low-carbon steel, so if the structure of the metal is unknown, it is better not to use heat treatment.

Hardening of steel is justified only in some cases.

1. The need to increase the strength of the tool . For example, it could be an ordinary kitchen utensil, a chisel or a chisel.
2. Increasing the ductility of the metal also requires heat treatment to further simplify the work during hot forging.

You can also order steel hardening services from specialists, especially since the cost is reasonable. For 1 kg of metal of a large structure, blacksmiths usually charge no more than 100–150 rubles. If you harden small parts, the prices are about 6–20 rubles. This will not guarantee the quality of the instruments, which is why many try to use heat treatment at home in order to independently monitor the process.

The first thing you need to remember when heating steel is some rules. Steel can be damaged if the temperature of the metal is raised above normal.

In this case, the tool may acquire a black or blue tint , which in the end cannot even be sanded off with sandpaper.

In order for such a defect to not occur, the metal must have a sufficient amount of carbon in its structure, and one must not overdo it with increasing temperature. Typically, steel is considered hot if a red tint appears.

For heat treatment of steel tools, a cutter, blowtorch, electric or gas stove may be suitable. In some cases, metal can be heated over a fire . In fact, there is no difference in where it is better to heat a metal product. Simply in the open air, when heated by a fire, there may not be enough heat energy to achieve the required temperature. Therefore, it is important to clarify the melting and hardening temperature of the material in advance.

It is also necessary to decide on the coolant during heat treatment. Any container with water is suitable for this, the main thing is that the tool fits completely. If steel consumables are being hardened, then a simple cut bottle can be used. In the case of heat treatment of an ax, crowbar and other similar tools, you need to choose a container with a large volume. In some cases, even a bathtub may be suitable, especially since there is no risk of its deformation.

The cooler is selected not only taking into account the size of the steel object, but also the method of heat treatment. Sometimes only a certain area needs to be hardened , in which case only jet cooling can be used.

More precisely, plain water is poured onto the material in drops into the area that requires hardening. This method is especially often used when heat treating a drill bit for a drill or on nails to improve the quality of the tip.

The hardening technique can be divided into several levels.

The following cooling levels are distinguished:

• sharp;
• one-time;
• gradual.

For single cooling, a simple container of water is most often used. If two-stage cooling is used, then two different means are used in the process.

This, in turn, increases not only the quality, but also the release of steel material. First of all, the steel is immersed in plain water, and then transferred to machine or mineral oil for further cooling .

The process is quite dangerous, because you need to cool the product in water to prevent the oil from igniting.

Hardening steel over an open fire

How to harden metal at home over an open fire? The question is quite common, and there are many methods. Heat treating over an open fire may not be as effective, but it reduces the risk of fire , especially when using oil while cooling the steel material.

The first thing you need to do is prepare your tools. You need to take steel material that will undergo heat treatment, forging tongs or an analogue tool and two containers. Water should be poured into one container, and machine or diesel oil should be added to another container.

After this, you should make a fire, using a large amount of coal. Unlike most methods of heating metal, here the material must be placed directly on the coals and it is desirable that they be white, because they are the ones that produce the highest temperature.

The fire that will envelop the steel must be crimson in color. If a white fire appears, then we can assume that the steel material has begun to burn .

In this case, it is impossible to save it, so it is better not to bring the hardening to this stage of melting.

You should also not allow black or blue spots to appear on the metal product. A blue color indicates that the steel has softened too much and has begun to deform, so it is worth checking the shade of the material from time to time. Complete deformation of the metal occurs when the object turns white.

After the steel material has heated up, you need to remove it from the fire and lower it into the oily liquid. The metal should be dipped several times at intervals of three seconds, gradually increasing this time.

The main thing is to do everything without haste, but you can’t hesitate either, because you can dip steel only if the material has the appropriate heat shade . After this, the metal product is placed in plain water, but you should be extremely careful here, as the remaining drops of oil may simply burst into flames.

If the procedure is carried out taking into account all the recommendations, the metal product can simply be left in water until it cools completely.

It is also important to remember that, unlike conventional tools, elongated objects, such as drills or nails, cannot be lowered into water sideways , since the lower part may simply flatten due to high temperature and sudden contact with water. Such elongated objects are lowered vertically into the water, with the end that has a larger diameter.

Hardening steel at home on a stove or fire is only suitable in cases where a simple type of material is used. When hardening non-ferrous metal, the temperature required is too high, which is 600–900 degrees. This result can be achieved using blast furnaces, but not at home.

Conclusion

The use of metal heat treatment can improve the quality of tools or consumables. When hardening steel at home, it is important to remember the basic recommendations so as not to deform the material.

Source: https://stanok.guru/metalloobrabotka/termoobrabotka-metalla/kak-pravilno-v-domashnih-usloviyah-zakalyat-metall.html

How to make a spring with your own hands - How to make a spring from wire at home

alexxlab | 08/12/2019 | 0 | Questions and answers

How to make a wire spring at home

Most often, the question of how to make a spring yourself, using improvised means, does not arise. However, there are situations when a spring of the required diameter is not at hand. It is in such cases that the need arises to make this element with your own hands.

Making a small spring is quite possible

Of course, springs for critical mechanisms operating under intensive conditions are best manufactured in production conditions, where it is possible not only to select correctly, but also to comply with all the parameters of the technological process. If you need a non-standard spring for use in a mechanism that will be operated in a gentle mode, then you can make it at home.

What you need

To make your own spring, prepare the following supplies and equipment:

• steel wire, the diameter of which should correspond to the cross-sectional size of the turns of your future spring product;
• a regular gas burner;
• a tool that every locksmith workshop must have;
• bench vice;
• a stove, which can also be used as a heating device for household purposes.

It is easier to wind a spiral using devices, the design of which depends on the size and stiffness of the spring

The wire, if its diameter does not exceed 2 mm, does not need to be subjected to preliminary heat treatment, since it is easy to bend without it. Before winding such wire onto a mandrel of the required diameter, it must be unbent and carefully aligned along the entire length of the winding.

When choosing the diameter of the mandrel, you should take into account the size of the spring that you are going to make at home. To compensate for the elastic deformation of the wire, the diameter of the mandrel is chosen slightly smaller than the required size of the internal cross-section of the future product.

Coil spring winding device

If the diameter of the wire from which you are going to make a spring with your own hands is more than 2 mm, it must first be annealed, since without such a procedure it will be difficult to align it and wind it onto the mandrel.

Step-by-step instruction

Step 1

The first thing you need to do if you are going to make a spring with your own hands is to select the material for such a product. The optimal material in this case is another spring (the main thing is that the diameter of the wire from which it is made matches the cross-section of the coils of the spring that you need to make).

By selecting material from an old spring, you will be sure that the wire is made of hardened high carbon steel

Step 2

Annealing the wire for the spring, as mentioned above, will allow you to make it more flexible, and you can easily align it and wind it on the mandrel. To perform this procedure, it is best to use a special stove, but if you do not have one at your disposal, then you can use any other device that heats wood.

In such a stove you need to light birch wood and, when it burns down to coals, put a spring in it, the wire from which you are going to use. After the spring is red-hot, the coals must be moved to the side and the heated product allowed to cool along with the stove. After cooling, the wire will become much more flexible, and you can easily work with it at home.

Step 3

The wire that has become soft should be carefully aligned and begin to be wound onto a mandrel of the required diameter. When performing this procedure, it is important to ensure that the turns are located close to each other. If you have never winded springs before, you can first watch a training video, which is easy to find on the Internet.

You can use a screwdriver to wind a small spring.

Step 4

In order for your new spring to have the required elasticity, it must be hardened. Heat treatment such as hardening will make the material harder and more durable. To perform hardening, the finished spring must be heated to a temperature of 830–870°, for which you can use a gas burner.

You can determine that the required hardening temperature has been reached by the color of the hot spring: it should turn light red. To accurately determine this color, also rely on the video.

After heating to the required temperature, the spring must be cooled in transformer or spindle oil.

Heated steel colors

Step 5

After hardening, the spring should be kept in a compressed state for 20–40 hours, and then its ends should be processed on a sharpening machine to make a product of the required size.

After completing all the above procedures, you can begin to use the spring you made with your own hands for its intended purpose.

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Source: https://stankotec.ru/raznoe/kak-sdelat-pruzhinu-svoimi-rukami-kak-sdelat-pruzhinu-iz-provoloki-v-domashnix-usloviyax.html

5 tips on how to properly wash your car at home

Washing a car is not just wiping the hood with a damp cloth , it is a special process that only a true car enthusiast will understand.

If you don’t have time for a car wash or just want to clean up your car yourself, then knowing a few nuances will help you do everything at the highest level.

General Tips

There is no need to wash the car immediately after turning off the engine . It is important to give it a little time to cool completely, and only then start washing.

This must always be observed, as a sudden change in temperature will have a negative effect on the paintwork.

As practice has shown, it will become damaged, and the owner will have to spend additional money on restoring the coating.

In winter, you should not wash your car at temperatures below -10 degrees.

In this case, only cold water is used. There are several reasons for this:

• a sharp change in temperature will have a negative effect on the paint;
• you may encounter the problem of damage to the varnish surface;
• water will get into various cracks and gaps and freeze there.

In summer, the water should be a little warm to avoid strong changes.

How to wash the interior of a car?

And today in specialized stores you can choose a huge number of interior cleaning products.

You shouldn’t neglect them as they will help deal with dried and stubborn stains of dirt.

In addition, in order for a textile surface to last as long as possible, it needs proper care. Cleaning products will provide this.

How to quickly and correctly wash the interior?

After purchasing the appropriate cleaning products , you will need to acquire a few more clean rags, interior cleaners, brushes and a vacuum cleaner.

First, you need to empty the car of everything unnecessary and superfluous, remove all things from the glove compartment.

Then remove the covers and undershirts, if present , remove the floor mats, and move the front seats back a little. It is quite convenient to clean up large debris with your hands, and for small debris you can use a vacuum cleaner.

After this, take an interior cleaner and apply it to the surface of the upholstery.

Important! The cleaner should not contain alcohol - it can erase the paint, the leather covering will become oak, which will lead to cracks.

How to wash glass?

There is nothing easier than washing glass . But, as practice has shown, this is the most difficult thing. Success depends on the product chosen and the quality of the rags.

Many modern products help get rid of greasy shine, stubborn stains, oil, and insects. And the glass will stop shining very much.

The cleaner is applied to the glass , then the surface is wiped with a dry cloth. It is advisable to get a couple of special glass rags that will prevent streaks from occurring.

What products may be needed when cleaning the body?

To quickly wash the body, you will need a special car shampoo, as well as a suede-based rag.

It absorbs excess water well. If there are bitumen stains on the surface of the body, then a special product is used to help remove them. Stains are dangerous for the paint layer because they corrode it.

Source: https://dixnews.ru/5-sovetov-kak-pravilno-myt-mashinu-v-domashnih-uslovijah/

Fabric roller blinds: how to wash them without removing them at home, what you can use to clean them

It is recommended to wash fabric roller blinds regularly; dust flying from an open window and household dirt accumulate on them. But fabric roller blinds need to be handled very carefully, since careless handling can ruin them.

Can roller blinds be washed?

Roller blinds for windows can be made from natural and artificial materials. Most often when creating them they use:

• linen, cotton and satin;
• polyester;
• polyvinyl chloride and fiberglass.

Roller blinds made from pure natural materials are rarely found. Typically, linen and cotton are blended with polyester to enhance the durability and reflective properties of curtains. The top of the fabric is coated with a special impregnation with an antistatic and dirt-repellent effect.

Roller curtains must be washed very carefully, without damaging the special impregnation or deforming the fabric.

You can wash fabric roller blinds at home; if you follow the rules, the products can safely withstand contact with water and mild detergents. But curtains are very sensitive to excessive wetness and mechanical stress; they can easily become deformed. Therefore, they cannot be washed in an automatic machine; if soiled, they can be washed by hand or gentle wet cleaning.

How to clean roller blinds

Most window roller blinds have a special impregnation that does not allow dirt to penetrate deep into the fabric fibers. All the dirt remains in the top layer of the curtains, and it is this layer that must be carefully cleaned when cleaning so as not to damage the impregnation itself.

It is not customary to wash roller blinds using strong alkaline and acidic agents. Liquids with a neutral composition are best suited:

• dishwashing detergents - AOC, Fairy and others;
• liquid soap;
• laundry soap solution.

It is best to wash roller curtains with soapy water. Important! Roller blinds can be washed with powder, but you need to make sure that the particles are completely dissolved in water. If small granules remain in the fabric fibers, then when exposed to sunlight they will lead to the appearance of burnt areas on the fabric.

How to wash roller blinds at home

For window fabric roller blinds, 3 cleaning methods are used - dry processing, wet washing and hand washing in a basin. Which method to choose depends on the degree of soiling of the curtains.

How to clean roller blinds without removing them

Removing roller blinds from a window can be difficult, so it is best to clean them without dismantling them. If you wash your roller blinds regularly and avoid heavy contamination, you won’t have to wash them in a basin for the first couple of years after purchase.

Dry vacuuming

If the fabric curtain looks clean and you need to treat it preventatively, you don’t even need to use water. Dry processing is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• roller blinds are unrolled to their full length and straightened so that there are no wrinkles;
• put on a vacuum cleaner an attachment designed for cleaning smooth surfaces and furniture;
• The device is turned on at the lowest power and carried out for several minutes. Preventive dry cleaning allows you to wash roller curtains as rarely as possible

If the roller blind has only managed to collect a little dust, cleaning it with a vacuum cleaner will bring good results. It is recommended to carry it out once every 2-3 months, in which case you will have to wash the roller blinds much less often.

Source: https://poleznii-site.ru/dom/byt/kak-postirat-rulonnye-shtory-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html

How to properly harden metal at home with your own hands: heat a drill and other iron in oil

05Dec

articles

The thermal metalworking process seems complex. But it can be done even at home, albeit with additional preparation. Before you start, it’s better to read our article on how to properly harden a part or drill or shaft yourself at home in oil.

Introduction

There is a characteristic of steel - hereditary and acquired grain size. The grain size can be smaller or larger, and it also changes under the influence of high temperatures. How quickly depends on the amount of impurities. It is impossible to say unambiguously which crystal lattice and which compounds are better.

In some cases, strength depends on this, in others ductility. This indicator must be changed depending on what kind of processing is to be done. If sheet steel or a profile is planned to be cut, then a procedure should be carried out that leads to grain coarsening.

And if the work is to be done with high-carbon steel, then workpieces with a fine-grained structure are better processed.

Changing the grain size is quite difficult. In this case, hereditary propensity must be taken into account. This does not mean that the alloy will in any case have large grains, but with the same heating of two bars with different heredity, one will produce growth of compounds faster than the other. Therefore, the factor is very important when selecting heating. So not everyone can only selectively harden metal at home; you should know the chemical composition.

The alloy has many impurities. Among them:

• Ferrite. This is the fundamental element that is most abundant. It carries the basic properties, other substances only increase or decrease them.
• Perlite. Increases hardness and tensile and compressive strength.
• Cementite. Chemical formula – iron with carbon. And although element “C” increases the strength characteristics, if you use pure FeC, you may be surprised at its fragility.
• Graphite. High-carbon Damascus steels are obtained by saturation with this impurity at the time of processing by forging.
• Austenite. Formed at a moment of very high heat. At the same time, plasticity increases, and magnetic properties disappear.

If the carbon content is from 0% to 2.18%, then we are dealing with steel - low carbon (up to 0.8%) or carbon. And if it is more than 2.18%, then we have durable cast iron. We conclude: the characteristics depend on two reasons:

• amount of impurities;
• degree of thermal treatment.

And if you can’t change the first one yourself, then the second one certainly can.

Technological nuances: how to properly harden metal

The procedure itself includes three steps - heating, holding and cooling. Depending on what result you want to get and what material you are working on, you choose different parameters: limit, duration, and cooling methods. Here is a table with several steel grades:

Brand	Temperature in degrees	Cooling medium
y9, y9a, y10, y10a	from 770 to 800	water
85khf, x12	from 800 to 840	oil
hwt	from 830 to 830
9xs	from 860 to 870
xv5	from 900 to 1000
9x5vf	from 1000 to 1050
p9, p18	from 1230 to 1300	saltpeter

There are two main purposes of heat treatment:

• increasing strength - this is necessary for knives, axes, drills and other tools used to process hard surfaces;
• increasing the plasticity of the product. For example, before forging or bending - it is used not in everyday life, but in a small private business.

When carrying out the heating technology, you should monitor the color of the workpiece. It should be deep red with an orange or yellowish tint depending on the type. There should be no black or other colored spots on the surface.

When carrying out the heating technology, you should monitor the color of the workpiece. It should be deep red with an orange or yellowish tint depending on the type. There should be no black or other colored spots on the surface.

How to properly harden metal and iron if there is no special kiln for firing? Use a blowtorch or make a regular fire - its temperature and burning time are high enough to do work that does not exceed domestic needs.

Cooling can be carried out in various ways. If you urgently need to reduce the heat in one area of ​​the product, you can use a directed stream of cold water. Water, and therefore rapid, cooling is necessary for alloy and carbon steels. After heating, you should take the element with tongs (if it is a small knife, an ax) and place it in a previously prepared container with liquid. When leaving, cool gradually - first with water and then with oil.

And the third option is gradual cooling in the fresh air. This is also an effective method when you need to leave a slight plasticity effect. Let's watch a video on this topic:

Heat treatment: how best to harden iron at home

This is a heating process followed by further cooling to change properties. We place a regular alloy in the furnace, and take out a hardened one, which is less susceptible to external deformations. What is it for? During primary processing, for example during stamping, cutting or casting, internal stresses appear inside the alloy, which have a very negative effect on the strength characteristics and increase brittleness. There are four types of heat treatment:

• Annealing. Necessary for the formation of ferrite and pearlite. It consists of heating in a furnace to 680-740 degrees, when the recrystallization threshold has already passed. As a result, old molecular bonds break down and new ones form. Then follows some exposure at a temperature of 400-500, at the end - cooling, slow, together with the heating element and simply open doors.
• Normalization is similar to the procedure for relieving internal stress, but heating is higher and cooling is much faster.
• Hardening. The main process that occurs is a change in grain size, which leads to the desired results. Cooling is very rapid, often in water or oil.
• Vacation. It comes in several modes. Let's talk about it separately.

Checking hardness after hardening metal at home

The word familiar to everyone in everyday life is a precise term and is applied mainly to solid products. To check, a ball or cone made of tool steel is pressed into the surface, and then a calculation is made using formulas depending on how deep the mark is left and what force was applied. There is another option - a Rockwell device, but using it at home or in an apartment is almost impossible.

The unit of hardness measurement is HRC. To compare values:

• kitchen knife, strong, expensive - from 55 to 63;
• small gears in cars - from 52 to 58;
• tips, drill tools, drills - from 60 and above.

Do-it-yourself hardening and tempering of metal in oil at home

For hardening carbon and alloy steels, it is best to use an oil liquid. The reasons are as follows:

• there are no bubbles on the surface of the workpiece;
• flow stimulates more active heat transfer;
• so as not to change the container in order to get two stages of cooling.

There is a special device - a pyrometer - it resembles a thermometer, but measurements are carried out without direct contact. It is expensive, so it is not worth buying for homework. Let's look at the color table and how to determine the temperature from it:

Color name	Temperature in degrees Celsius
Dazzling white	1250-1300
Light yellow	1150-1250
Dark yellow	1050-1150
Orange	900-1050
Light red	830-900
Light cherry red	800-830
Cherry red	770-800
Dark cherry red	730-770
Dark red	650-730
Brown-red	580-650
Dark brown	530-580

Vacation

Treatment is required in order to remove stresses generated during primary processing. There are three degrees:

• low - for knives, medical instruments, scissors, blades;
• medium - for axes, saws, discs for sawing wood;
• high - for parts needed in mechanical engineering.

There is also a color table to determine tarnish:

Color name	Temperature in degrees Celsius
Grey	325
Light blue	310
Bright blue	295
Violet	285
Purple red	275
Red-brown	265
Brown-yellow	255
Straw yellow	240
Light yellow	225
Light straw	200

The choice of mode should be made according to the data:

Type of vacation	Temperature in degrees Celsius	Phase composition	Application
Short	120-250	Temper martensite	Measuring tools, cold forming dies
Average	350-500	Troostitis leave	Springs, leaf springs, hot forming stamping tools
High	500-650	Sorbitol release	Shafts, cams, worm gears, gears

How to harden steel at home: features of the process

Recommendations for proper hardening:

• heating - slow and gradual;
• the formation of dark spots on the surface indicates rapid overheating;
• wait for a rich scarlet color;
• The tempering mode must correspond to the degree of hardening.

The last tip can be followed if you look at the table:

hardening in degrees Celsius	vacation
1200	390
380
1100	370
360
1050	350
340
980	330
320
930	310
300
870	290
810	280
270
760	260
250
700	240
230
650	220
210
600	200

Source: http://rocta.ru/info/kak-pravilno-samomu-zakalit-metall-i-stal-v-domashnih-usloviyah/

How to make a spring at home – How to make a spring from wire at home

Most often, the question of how to make a spring yourself, using improvised means, does not arise. However, there are situations when a spring of the required diameter is not at hand. It is in such cases that the need arises to make this element with your own hands.

Making a small spring is quite possible

Of course, springs for critical mechanisms operating under intensive conditions are best manufactured in production conditions, where it is possible not only to select correctly, but also to comply with all the parameters of the technological process. If you need a non-standard spring for use in a mechanism that will be operated in a gentle mode, then you can make it at home.

How to harden a spring at home video?

» Other »

Question for experts: there are 2 new springs from the MR-512 air gun, one sat down after 20 shots and began to spit, the second also, maybe something can be done with them so that they don’t sit down so quickly.

Best regards, ahmadinid

Best answers

Most likely the steel is worthless,
65G for example is hardened at a temperature of 700-800 and then tempered... without knowing the brand and characteristics of the spring it’s hard to say

nakalit do malinogogo cveta i okunut v techniceskoe maslo or otrabotku.

They must be released, then stretched to a certain length, and then hardened again.
See [link blocked by decision of the project administration]. But I'm afraid you just have bad steel springs. It should be 65G steel, but the hacks made a spring from an ordinary structural one.

Steel 65G is used in the most irresponsible products. All spring wires with a diameter of up to 6 millimeters have a hardened surface and their winding technology consists of winding onto a cylindrical mandrel, after which they are tempered.

However, it is worth considering that coiling occurs when the wire is tensioned and after the load is removed the spring unfolds, i.e. the diameter increases. Therefore, before manufacturing the spring, the diameter of the mandrel is calculated.

In handicraft conditions, you can contrive to make a spring from a wire of a small diameter, but you need to know for sure that this is a spring wire. You can’t do anything with your springs.

Well, it’s a bit difficult here because you need a temperature so that it doesn’t become too brittle and so that it doesn’t become soft. You can try to dig a hole the size of a bucket, light a fire there, bury your spring in the smoldering coals and blow, let it lie for 20 minutes until it turns red immediately into the water.

If it is very fragile, it needs to be heated again but at a lower temperature and allowed to cool slowly. This is how I hardened a piece of steel, first it became too brittle and then I reheated it, but too much and let it cool very slowly and it became soft again.

So it’s a little difficult here without special equipment.

answer

This video will help you figure it out

Answers from experts

heat evenly until the color is neither white nor yellow, preferably slightly reddish and in oil. Essentially in working size. or look for a familiar thermostat with a furnace. or (if a rifle) put the bricks at an angle in a type of oven and heat them with blowtorches or a gas burner (not propane, the temperature is low) about three for that length. or attach a powerful welding machine to the ends of the spring on the “crocodiles” - it gets hot and it splashes into the oil. the dimensions of the spring are very specifically stated (((

Steel grade 65G or 60S2 is required.

Hello! Maybe it’s all about the grade of steel? If the steel is not very good, it won’t do any good. Heat treatment of springs is a very tricky undertaking even in production conditions. How did you determine that spring steel is suitable?

Good luck!

Not everyone became red-hot.
Not all steels (even hot ones) are suitable for making springs. And the spring is not always steel. It could be nickel silver, manganin, a whole family of bronzes... First you need to calculate the spring and select the material. And then think about how to heat it up.

We are obviously talking about banal manganese steel. No answer yet... We wait

Source: https://dom-voprosov.ru/prochee/kak-zakalit-pruzhinu-v-domashnih-usloviyah-video

How to harden a spring with your own hands

Most often, the question of how to make a spring yourself, using improvised means, does not arise. However, there are situations when a spring of the required diameter is not at hand. It is in such cases that the need arises to make this element with your own hands.

Making a small spring is quite possible

Of course, springs for critical mechanisms operating under intensive conditions are best manufactured in production conditions, where it is possible not only to select correctly, but also to comply with all the parameters of the technological process. If you need a non-standard spring for use in a mechanism that will be operated in a gentle mode, then you can make it at home.

How to harden a spring | Do it yourself

Heat treatment of springs involves heating steel to a certain temperature, holding it at that temperature and further cooling to cause the desired metamorphosis of the properties of the metal. One of the types of heat treatment of springs is their hardening.

Instructions

1. Winding and hardening of springs is carried out with one heating to a temperature of 900 ° C in a special furnace. The heating duration can vary from 10 to 30 minutes and depends on the diameter of the spring blank rod.

2. When producing small series, springs are wound from heated rods on a screw-cutting lathe equipped with a special device for winding. The wound spring is fed into a quenching drum, the rotation speed of which is set taking into account the time required to harden the spring, which is determined by the diameter of the rod.

3. If, from the point of view of special technology, it is not possible to harden the spring with one heating, then after winding it is heated a second time for hardening. In the mass production of springs, heating and hardening operations can be mechanized by installing a hardening tank and conveyor next to the furnace.

4. Water is used as a quenching medium at a temperature of about 40°C, as well as transformer oil at a temperature not exceeding 60°C.

5. In order to improve the mechanical properties and eliminate internal stresses, after hardening, the springs are tempered in a conveyor furnace. The interval between hardening and tempering should not exceed four hours. Vacation is carried out at a temperature in the range of 480-520oC. The springs are cooled in water, the temperature of which does not exceed 100°C, as well as in air indoors.

6. The residual deformation of the spring after quenching and annealing is removed after cooling the metal with a single compression until the coils come into contact with a holding time of several seconds.

Tip 2: How to harden steel

Hardening of steel as a type of heat treatment is a complex process and involves internal metamorphoses of the steel structure, invisible to the naked eye. But at the same time, hardened parts acquire absolutely visible properties: increased strength, sharpness, and less susceptibility to wear.

It is known that a positively hardened knife blade or the tip of an awl can successfully replace a glass cutter, and a tool bought in a store sometimes also requires “rework.” It is amazing that with such a large scale of changes occurring in steel , hardening under non-professional conditions is absolutely acceptable.

And the thesis of all (not only home) hardening methods is to heat the steel to a certain temperature and then rapidly cool it. There are 2 methods in particular available.

You will need

• * part for hardening;
• * container with any machine oil corresponding to the size of the part;
• * container with cold water corresponding to the size of the part;
• * ticks;
• * sealing wax;
• * fire (stove, gas burner)

Tip 3: How to harden metal

Manufacturers of cutting, chopping and other metal tools repeatedly make mistakes in the hardening of metal. Often, an ax blade may be unsatisfactorily hardened or overheated. It is virtually impossible to check the hardening quality of a tool at the time of purchase. It is very inconvenient to use a tool at work that creases or breaks. Therefore, you can try to harden the metal yourself.

You will need

• Fire, blacksmith's tongs, two containers, machine oil, water

Tip 4: How to wind a spring

Springs are used in a wide variety of fields - from jewelry and furniture production to the manufacture of transport springs. You can learn how to wind springs yourself.

Tip 5: How to calculate a spring

The representation of the spring calculation hides a large number of parameters, such as the diameter of the rod, its material properties and its processing. Therefore, a complete calculation of a spring is a very difficult operation, performed with the support of special computer programs. The main parameters include spring stiffness, maximum compression (extension) force, maximum deformation, height of the spring in the compressed and free state, and spring pitch.

You will need

• dynamometer, ruler, scales.