How to sharpen a straight razor correctly
Every man can sharpen razor blades on his own if you use simple techniques. This will extend the life of the machine, and the procedure itself will not take much time.
What is important to know
The main accessory for men's daily grooming that requires attention is machines. Mainly used - disposable, T-shaped or reusable with replaceable cassettes.
It happens that the blade becomes dull or the replacement cassettes run out. You have to shave with unsuitable material, which results in severe skin irritation, abrasions on the face, and the hair is shaved poorly.
Home techniques will quickly restore the original appearance of the sharp material, extend the shelf life, help save money and help out in any situation.
Methods and step-by-step guide
Specialists, barbers and men who practice self-care for the machine use several methods.
Sharpener RazorPit and cheaper analogue Zattoch
The Danish company RazorPit has developed a sharpener for sharpening blades. This method is proven and has proven itself among users. There is also a budget analogue of the Ukrainian company Zattoch on the market.
An oblong leather plate on an adhesive tape, the surface of which is treated with diamond chips and is itself sharpened.
Using the RazorPit (Zattoch), the blades are sharpened as follows:
- A few drops of shaving gel are applied to the surface of the device.
- Then the razor moves in the opposite direction.
- 25–30 movements are recommended.
One procedure per month is enough to turn the machine into a reliable shaving tool. The video shows how to sharpen 3 different blades with a Zattoch sharpener.
Denim
You can sharpen a razor at home on jeans. Denim fabric on the reverse side is dense and rough, copes well with a dull blade.
- The jeans are turned inside out.
- You need to place a hard thing made of cardboard or wood under your jeans. A ruler, a block, or a sleeve from plastic bags will do.
- The razor moves across the fabric in the opposite direction to a classic shave, without damaging the jeans.
- 30–50 times is enough.
As the machine is used, the procedure is carried out regularly until the material is completely thinned.
Leather belt
You can also sharpen your razor at home using a leather belt. The procedure is similar to the method with denim. A strong belt is selected from thick leather, turned inside out and 25–30 movements are made in the opposite direction. No less convenient and affordable way.
Pyramid
Some sources claim that the pyramid for sharpening a blade was invented by the Czech engineer K. Drobal. It can be bought or made from improvised materials. Cut a square from chipboard or cardboard, and the edges are parallel to each other (the size is indicated in the pictures below). Secure them with tape or glue in the shape of a pyramid. Further, according to the instructions:
- place the pyramid on a hard, flat surface;
- the design is oriented with its edges to the cardinal directions;
- place the blade inside the pyramid on a cardboard pedestal at 1/3 of the height, in the direction from south to north (or vice versa);
- keep the cassette in this condition for a week.
The surface of the blades must not touch anything!
Sharpening with a stone
Not everyone can succeed in sharpening shaving blades with a stone the first time; it also all depends on the material. For the procedure, synthetic stones without lumps with a uniform surface are used.
The procedure goes like this:
- The stone is wetted with water.
- The razor carefully moves along the stone in the opposite direction.
- 25–30 movements are enough.
- When sharpening a straight razor, carefully hold the blade with your thumb and forefinger. You should sharpen first on one side, then turn it over and sharpen on the other side.
Sharpening with sandpaper
Sharpening with sandpaper is a simple and straightforward method. Sandpaper with a grit of more than 2000, water and a flat surface are suitable for this.
Features of sharpening a disposable razor
If you find yourself in a place where your razor is inaccessible, then disposable razors come to the rescue. Therefore, sometimes you shouldn’t throw away the machine right away. You can rinse it thoroughly with water, then use one of the already known methods, and the machine will serve you well.
Source: https://crast.ru/instrumenty/kak-pravilno-tochit-opasnuju-britvu
How to shave a straight razor
Just a few decades ago, the straight razor we call straight razor was the only tool for removing facial hair. Progress does not stand still, and safe machines have recently been invented, in favor of which many have chosen. But even today, straight razors have not become exhibits in museums. People continue to use them; moreover, in the last couple of years, straight razors have experienced another surge in popularity.
However, buying a straight razor is only half the battle; it is also important to take proper care of it - trim and sharpen. Of course, the quality of the shave depends on the quality of the razor itself. Our online store offers only original straight razors from leading brands. But straightening a razor is the prerogative of its owner.
First of all, you need to remember once and for all that sharpening and straightening a straight razor are not the same thing. In the first case, it is necessary to remove part of the iron blade with a special stone for sharpening a straight razor. Straightening a straight razor involves removing small burrs, irregularities and surface grinding from the blade; a special belt is used for this.
The smoother and sharper the surface of the razor, the better and safer your shave will be. Therefore, if you become the owner of such a truly masculine tool as a straight razor, you cannot do without editing. In our article we will tell you how to shave a straight razor correctly.
Straight razor trim: choose the right belt
To maintain a straight razor in perfect condition, you will need a small set of tools. An essential accessory for the owner of a straight razor is a special belt. There are two options for making such belts:
- equipped with a wooden handle;
- hanging.
Suspended ones are especially popular, since in this case you can independently adjust the degree of belt tension. It is important that the width of the belt is greater than the length of the razor blade. Even equality of these quantities is undesirable. If you use a belt that is not wide enough, the blade will not be cut evenly.
A belt with a wooden handle is recommended for use by beginners, as its tension does not change. If you use such a belt, you will be able to avoid stupid mistakes and gradually switch to suspended analogues.
Full straightening of a straight razor on a belt is impossible without the use of a special abrasive paste. Modern belt manufacturers produce products with applied paste. If you are a beginner, then you should pay attention to this offer. As your skills develop, you will be able to apply the paste correctly yourself.
In our catalog you can buy a belt for straightening a straight razor.
Straightening a straight razor will require some skill on your part. Move into the background all the skills and knowledge that you gained in the process of sharpening kitchen knives, they will only hinder you here. Straightening a straight razor is a unique process that requires full concentration and precise movements.
First of all, you need to remember that you will not become a master of straight razor straightening the first time. It will take hours of practice before you can confidently say that you can get a straight razor blade close to perfect. But each time you will do better.
The blade of a straight razor is made of high carbon steel. This is a very hard material. But the cutting edge itself is very thin, so the blade is sensitive to all your movements. If you start the movement incorrectly or change the angle during the editing process, this will lead to the appearance of unevenness and chips. The whole process step by step is as follows.
1. Place the blade flat on the belt.2. Pull the razor towards you and away from you with smooth movements with the comb part forward.3. The pressure should not be too strong and static to avoid deformation of the cutting edge.
Yes, these are really all the manipulations for straightening a straight razor. It looks very simple, all you have to do is try it and evaluate it.
People who don't know how to shave a straight razor often make mistakes. After reading this section, you will be able to quickly achieve perfection in this difficult art.
Don't start from the end!
You should not pick up a straight razor and immediately try to straighten and sharpen it using all kinds of abrasive materials that are in your home. At the first stage, you need to assess the condition of the cutting edge.
This determines the amount of work required to bring the blade back to normal condition. Evaluate the geometry of the tool. To do this, place the razor on an equal horizontal plane. Place the razor blade and pad on the surface and assess their condition.
If the razor does not have serious damage to the working parts, then you can start editing.
Unilateral approach
A belt for straightening straight razors, as a rule, consists of a leather surface and a fabric part with a minimal cross-section. Both sides are important in the stropping process. Even among experienced straight razor owners, there are people who only handle the blade with the fabric or leather side of the belt. This is mistake. The ideal ratio is 15:50. To 15 wires on a fabric surface, add 50 on a leather surface each time.
Slow and steady
Under no circumstances make sudden or fast movements. Straight razors love smooth, confident movements. Otherwise, your edit process may end with a damaged blade, damaged belt, and cuts on your hands.
Tighten the belt
If the straightening belt is relaxed, its surface will become wavy, which is extremely undesirable. This causes the edge to bend. Then you will have to re-sharpen the razor using coarser abrasives and move on to editing again. It is easy to understand that the belt is tight enough. You will hear a characteristic sound during the editing process.
Dirt
Beginners do not always monitor the condition of the belt. It must be dry and perfectly cleaned. Remember that the slightest particle of sand can affect the condition of the blade. The same rule applies to the razor itself. Before editing, check its cleanliness.
Short movement on the blade
When you shave a straight razor, make sure that your hand does not engage the blade in any way. This happens when you bring the razor to the extreme point of the belt and turn it over. To start moving in the opposite direction, turn the razor over the comb part, and not over the cutting edge. Otherwise, you may damage the blade and belt.
Do not lift the razor!
Guide the straight razor flat on the belt only, and do not lift up either the comb or the cutting edge. In the first case, the blade may become deformed, and in the second, you won't get any benefit to the razor's sharpness.
Neither more nor less
The number of strokes on the belt ranges from 3 to 50. Anything less is too little to make the blade sharper. Don't try in vain, the razor won't get any sharper. With a large number of cycles, your hands get tired, you begin to act sloppy, which can lead to unpleasant consequences for the cutting edge.
Consequences of mistakes when straightening a straight razor
If you ignore the editing instructions and other people's mistakes, this may result in trouble for you. Remember that a dull straight razor is much more likely to cause cuts than a sharp razor. If you encounter such a problem, re-edit the blade until you achieve a positive result.
Using the belt incorrectly can lead to damage to your tools: not only the belt, but also the razor. All movements must be neat and precise. Only edit your straight razor when you are not in a rush and there are no distractions.
Straight razor straightening. Useful tips
After we have figured out the question of how to edit a straight razor, it is worth paying attention to the little things that will help extend the life of the blade and make it as sharp as possible.
1. Before or after? Many owners of such tools argue about how best to shave a straight razor: before shaving or after. It seems very convenient to edit immediately after shaving. If necessary, you can use a ready-made tool. But it’s still better to do the editing before shaving. The fact is that over time the blade loses its sharpness. Try both methods and see.
2. Which belt material is better? The modern market is ready to offer many belts for straightening straight razors, but which one will be optimal? Experts recommend purchasing belts made of horse leather. It is the smoothest and rules better. Cowhide is also suitable for straightening, but does not work as well as horsehide. When it comes to belts made from synthetic materials, you cannot deny them.
But to find the right one, you will have to spend a lot of time and money. 3. Does the selected belt work? It is difficult for a beginner to determine whether a particular belt is suitable for straightening a straight razor or not. There are no tricks here, you will have to turn to practice. Dull the razor and test different belts with several rounds of strokes. If the razor becomes sharper, then the belt is working.
Pay attention to the editing technique. Perhaps you are acting incorrectly. 4. Before each use of the belt, wipe it with a dry palm. This is a kind of preparation for work. This way, you remove invisible dust particles from it that can affect the quality of the edit. The belt is also lubricated by your sebum and works better. 5.
Do not store the belt in a twisted state! This can lead to wrinkles that are very difficult to remove. In turn, wrinkles on the belt negatively affect the quality of the edit. The best choice for storing your belt is a closet. 6. If you use a hanging strap, install a secure hook.
If the belt breaks, you can cut the belt, your hands, or drop the blade (impacts are unacceptable, as they lead to chips and permanent loss of the tool).
These tips will help you maintain the true quality of your straight razor and enjoy using it.
To keep your straight razor sharp
Do not forget that between sharpening and edits, you need to treat your straight razor with care. This is a very sensitive instrument that can be damaged by careless touch. Never drop the razor, as this will cause chips.
Store it in a dry place out of the reach of children. Use the tool only for its intended purpose, no matter how attractive it may seem to you to test the sharpness of the cutting edge on something foreign.
If you follow these rules between slashes, your razor will stay sharp for a long time and will serve you for decades.
Source: http://pobrey.ru/kak-pravit-opasnuyu-britvu/
How to sharpen a straight razor at home?
Straight razors have been used for centuries. Previously, these cutting products looked quite primitive. Since the 18th century, they have improved their design, which is familiar to modern consumers. At that time, according to experts, the “danger”, as it is also called, was the only and extremely effective shaving tool. In the 20th century, safety razors and electric razors appeared, and therefore “fears” faded into the background.
However, they have not disappeared completely and are used today by many classic connoisseurs. Judging by numerous reviews, “fears” have recently returned from hairdressing practice, where they especially took root, into the sphere of household use. It has become fashionable to shave with them. Many brutal men choose this option.
This explains why many are interested in how to sharpen a straight razor at home? You will learn how to do this from this article.
What is the essence of the procedure?
During frequent use, the guard may become dull. There are times when it falls on a hard surface and becomes bent. As a result, you will have to edit its cutting edge.
This process does not involve sharpening it, but only aligning the metal edges and eliminating minor defects. If they are significant, then you will have to use sharpening stones.
For those who do not know how often to sharpen a straight razor, experts recommend doing this every time before use.
About aiming straps
Before sharpening a straight razor on a belt, you should acquire the appropriate tool. Specialized stores sell hanging belts and those with wooden handles. In addition, these products can have different widths. It is chosen taking into account the length of the blade. This is necessary for uniform treatment of the entire surface of the “danger”.
Belts are also available in leather and fabric. There is no abrasive composition for these products. Some samples are coated with a special coating at the factory. Such belts are no longer intended for aiming, but for sharpening. Such products are used in cases where conventional editing does not bring results.
Preparing the belt
You need to work on a clean and smooth leather (no paste) or fabric belt with minimal grain. If stains are found on the surface, they should be cleaned. All other defects are sanded down. Before you begin, carefully rub the surface with your palm to make it perfectly smooth.
About storage rules
Pasted belts should be stored separately from clean belts. It is undesirable for abrasive to come into contact with a clean blade or for pastes with different grain sizes to be mixed. In addition, these products can become deformed and therefore cannot be twisted or folded.
Otherwise, wrinkles and folds will form on their surface, which will be impossible to eliminate in the future. Belts should also be protected from dust. Special covers are provided precisely for this purpose.
Judging by numerous consumer reviews, straightening belts should not be kept in a room with high humidity levels.
How to straighten a cutting edge?
The procedure for straightening a straight razor using a belt is as follows:
- Take the “caution” by the “shin” and hold it with your fingers on the back side.
- The belt is securely fastened and kept taut. It should be parallel to the floor.
- The cutting part is laid flat and pulled along the belt with a “comb”. Do not press too hard, otherwise the blade will bend and the end of the razor edge will not contact the belt.
- When you reach the very edge, carefully turn the “danger” over. This needs to be done from the butt side. If you flip over the point, you will simply cut the belt or bend the edge. As a result, your razor will be ruined. There is no need to stop the tool at the edges. If you need to rotate the blade, tear it off the surface, and then start touching the belt again while wiring.
- To sharpen the razor, you will have to perform an average of 30 passes. Subsequent editing is not advisable, since the quality of the cut will remain the same.
If you are not satisfied with the achieved sharpness, use a special paste. With it, editing on the belt is limited to ten passes. It also happens that the quality of the cutting edge after processing on a paste coating leaves much to be desired. In this case, you will have to use stones. How to sharpen a straight razor on a stone? More on this below.
Stone selection
Before sharpening a straight razor at home, you need to purchase a stone with a uniform fine-grained surface of 4000/8000. There should be no dense lumps in the product. Preference should be given to those stones that retain their shape and do not release a suspension.
According to experts, blade razors are delivered to the shelves with a ready-made factory sharpening. The owner only needs to regularly edit it, namely grind it away from burrs and correct minor irregularities. Belts are quite suitable for this procedure.
If you need to remove part of the metal from the canvas, then sharpening stones are needed for this purpose.
How are stones checked?
In addition to the question of how to sharpen a straight razor, many beginners are interested in what tool will be needed in a particular case. Experts recommend doing this with a stone.
To have an idea of how to sharpen a straight razor, you should familiarize yourself with its geometric parameters. To do this, the “safety guard” is placed on a flat surface along with the butt and the inlet. Next, these places are checked for gaps.
If the razor does not fit tightly to the surface, then you will have to use a coarse abrasive.
Progress
If you don't know how to properly sharpen a straight razor, here's what you need to do. First of all, wet the stone with water. Next, the edge of the blade and the ridge of the “guard” are pressed against the block using the index finger and thumb.
To prevent the comb from being scratched, experts recommend sealing it with insulating tape. Do not press too hard. The main thing is that the plane of the cutting product is in constant contact with the surface of the sharpening stone and at a constant angle.
Only in this way will it be possible to sharpen the razor evenly.
Approaching the edge, the product is turned over to the other side through the ridge. Next, the other side performs a passage in the opposite direction. The procedure is repeated until the desired effect is achieved.
What do the experts advise?
Judging by the reviews, the question of how to sharpen a straight razor is not the only one that interests many modern consumers. Often beginners do not know how to properly use and store the “danger”. According to experts, the metal of the razor is susceptible to oxidation and corrosion.
Therefore, after use, the product must be washed in a soapy solution and wiped dry with a cloth. If you become the owner of a used razor, then you should wipe it with a soft cloth, which has been previously moistened with alcohol. Sudden temperature changes are not advisable for “dangers”. Products cannot be disinfected using boiling water and acids. It is best to store the razor in a dry, well-ventilated area.
If you are not going to use the “danger” in the near future, then treat it with paraffin or oil. The service life of a razor directly depends on its storage conditions and careful handling of the product. It is important to prevent the razor from falling onto hard surfaces or from allowing the cutting edge to come into contact with other objects. Otherwise, defects will appear on the blade, which will negatively affect the quality of the shave.
A straight razor should only be used for its intended purpose.
Finally
For those who are interested in how to sharpen a straight razor, but do not feel confident in their abilities, it is better to take the cutting product to a specialized workshop. The fact is that sharpening with stones is quite effective, but at the same time a complex procedure. If, despite your lack of experience, you intend to manage it on your own, then it’s better for you, just in case, to acquire not one bar, but several at once.
Source: https://kareliyanews.ru/kak-tochit-opasnuyu-britvu-v-domashnix-usloviyax/
8 rules for shaving with a straight razor
Author Oksana Knopa Date May 12, 2016
Shaving is carried out in different ways - with disposable razors, electric razors, straight razors, etc. It is with this last tool that you can achieve maximum quality and smooth skin that is impossible to achieve with other methods. But working with it is not easy and, as its name implies, dangerous. In some countries, hairdressers need a special certificate to use this tool.
The straight razor is a classic of the stylist genre
Conditions for a good shave - good sharpening
The basis of a good close shave is a sharp razor. It must be made of durable metal and not have bends or deformations. It is important to maintain its maximum sharpness. If it is not sharpened too well, it will become difficult for the master to work with it. To obtain a high-quality result, you will have to hold it at a very acute angle to the skin.
This leads to discomfort and irritation in the client. It also increases the likelihood of scratches. Therefore, entrust regular sharpening of your razor to a professional. He will not only sharpen it sharply and evenly, but also at the right angle.
Razor sharpness: you can change the blades, but it’s better to sharpen them correctly
To understand whether your tool is well sharpened or whether it has become dull during operation, you need to know a few rules.
- The sharpness of the razor cannot be checked visually;
- The hair cutting test is popular. The razor is fixed on the table with the blade facing up. Hair falls smoothly and softly onto it from above, perpendicular to the blade. If it only touched the blade, but broke into two parts, then the sharpening was done correctly;
- Experienced craftsmen can check the sharpness with their finger, but this method is not recommended for beginners, since cuts cannot be avoided.
You need to shave a straight razor using a belt using a special paste. At the same time, you need to hold it at a certain angle to the belt. This is a rather complex and specific process. But every master should learn it, since straightening a straight razor with a large flow of clients must be done quite often.
WATCH VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS
How to hold the instrument correctly
There are two correct ways to hold a straight razor. Sometimes there are more of them, but the rest are only a variety or derivative of the main ones.
- Basic method. We hold the tool in the right hand (or left hand for left-handers). The blade faces down, the handle faces up. The thumb rests on the bottom of the razor, to the left of the cutting edge, closer to the heel. The little finger rests on the unsharpened edge, at the end of the razor, behind the junction with the case. The remaining fingers are on the unsharpened edge;
- Second method. We take the instrument in our dominant hand. The blade is turned up, the handle is turned down. The little finger is under the tail, behind the screw securing it to the case. The thumb is on the inside of the unsharpened edge with notches, all other fingers are on the outside.
The second method is considered more convenient. But each master must choose it individually.
Inclination of bristles
All hair on the body grows at a certain angle to the surface of the skin. This angle is approximately equal for identical hairs growing on the same part of the body. This is an important fact to consider when shaving. In particular, when moving the razor, when tilting it and when pulling the skin.
Tensioning the belt leather
To shave properly with a straight razor, you need to know how to properly stretch the skin. It must be tightened every time the tool moves in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade. Place your finger 1.5 - 2 cm from the cutting edge and move it by pressing on the skin. Use the index finger of your non-dominant hand (i.e. the hand that is not holding the razor).
Tool angle: even if you have Solingen, the rules are the same for everyone
The instrument moves with the head forward, in short movements, strictly on the stretched area of the skin. To keep the skin smooth and the quality of work high, hold the razor at an angle to the surface of the skin of 30 - 40 degrees. If the angle turns out to be even sharper, so much the better. Movements are smooth and frequent.
This shaving will take place with maximum comfort for the client and convenience for the master. This reduces the likelihood of scratches and injuries.
Correct shaving technique with a straight razor: instructions for men
You need to use a straight razor according to specific instructions. The face is processed in several stages, which must be followed. This will allow you to get the best result combined with speed of work and comfort for the client.
The instrument must be sterilized after use on a previous client and placed in a separate box. Before using it again, it must be treated with an antiseptic. Some craftsmen use antiseptic repeatedly during the work process.
Before shaving
The beard or stubble is lathered with a shaving brush. The technician pours a glass of warm or hot water and places the razor there for a few seconds (the working surface of the tool). This is done so that it warms up and the manipulations do not cause discomfort, goosebumps or a desire to shudder in the client. All this interferes with the process.
It only takes a few seconds for the instrument to reach a comfortable temperature.
Shaving the right side
When learning to shave with a straight razor, it always starts on the right side of the client's face. Some masters start with the left, as it is more convenient for them.
- The first movement is directed from the temple down, parallel to the cheekbone;
- The second movement is along the angle of the lower jaw;
- The third is above the second, from the center of the cheek down towards the chin;
- Fourth - from the chin up to the lip;
- Fifth – three movements along the mustache area above the upper lip;
- The sixth is on the side of the lip, starts slightly to the right of the corner of the lips, moves towards the zone of the fifth movement;
- Seventh - from the chin to the corner of the lower jaw along the edge of the face;
- The eighth, ninth and tenth are three movements along the neck from top to bottom.
During the entire process, the facial skin should stretch.
Shaving the left side
The technique of shaving with a straight razor involves a different way of working with the left side of the face. This is due to the fact that for most craftsmen their own hands greatly obscure their view.
- The first movement is from the temple down, as on the right;
- The second movement - on the cheek - is similar to the third on the right;
- Third - three short movements above the upper lip;
- Fourth - from the place to the right of the corner of the lips to the mustache area and from the same place down to the chin;
- Fifth - a series of movements along the line of the lower jaw, from its angle to the chin;
- Sixth – Along the chin to the lip, from bottom to top;
- Seventh, eighth, ninth, tenth - a series of movements from the chin and jaw line down to the neck.
No matter how sharply you manage to sharpen a straight razor, after such a shave along the hair growth there will still be remnants of stubble. To eliminate them, shaving again is carried out against the growth.
Second phase
Starts on the right. The first movement is along the neck, closer to the ear, from bottom to top. The second is along the angle of the lower jaw to the temple. Third - from the jaw up. Fourth - from the jaw to the ear. Fifth - from the jaw to the chin. Next, the chin itself and the area on the side of it, towards the mustache line, are shaved. After this, shave the area under the lower lip and neck again, moving from bottom to top, i.e., against hair growth.
On the left, you also start from the neck. Then, in three movements from bottom to top, shave your cheek. The fifth movement starts from the corner of the lips down the chin, the sixth - from the same area up to the nose. Then the area under the lower lip and neck is shaved.
After the procedure
Wipe off any foam from the skin with a towel. Now wash your face with cool water. When skin is prone to irritation, use a warm compress with a damp towel for a few minutes.
Close shaving is a whole complex of events, be prepared for them
Now apply any aftershave care that suits your skin type.
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Source: https://volosyki.ru/tools-and-resources/mashin/8-pravil-britya-opasnoj-britvoj/