How to make a drill sharpener

Do-it-yourself drill sharpening: suitable tools and recommendations for doing the job, video

Metal drills are always hardened, but the products may become dull over time. Naturally, this is not a reason to throw them away. If you wish, you can sharpen the drill yourself using professional equipment or homemade devices.

Main types of sharpening

Experienced craftsmen know that sharpening a drill for metal varies depending on the diameter and specific application .

• Single-plane sharpening is designed for drills with a maximum diameter of 3 mm. During the work process, it is possible that the edges may “paint”, so you need to be very careful. To properly sharpen the product, it should be applied to the circle and moved parallel to the surface.
• The conical procedure is intended for larger metal cutting tools. In this case, the tool must be held with both hands, performing sequential sharpening.
• Finishing is carried out after finishing sharpening. Thanks to this procedure, it is possible to polish the cutting edge and eliminate even the smallest nicks.

Types of sharpening machines

To sharpen a drill with your own hands correctly, you need to use the appropriate machines. Such devices are divided into 2 groups .

• Industrial equipment has significant power. It can be used to sharpen drills with a diameter of 20 mm or more. These machines are installed at large enterprises, and sharpening is carried out in semi-automatic or fully automatic mode.
• Household machines are designed for use at home. They are also used in small production. Such equipment is characterized by mobility, average power and compact size.

Recommendations for choosing a household machine

If you are interested in the question of how to sharpen a drill for metal, then be sure to purchase the appropriate machine. An inexpensive model with average power is suitable for home use. It will allow you to sharpen small drills for metal.

Naturally, when purchasing, you need to pay attention to the noise level , as well as the design of the model. The best option would be a simple machine, because choosing the necessary parts for it will not be difficult.

It is necessary to buy such devices only in specialized places, since a technical passport is included in the kit. Moreover, you will be given a warranty card.

Using machines at home

As mentioned earlier, it is advisable to use household machines at home. With their help, it is possible to sharpen various types of drills. It is important to remember that for some varieties you will have to purchase the appropriate circles.

To sharpen a drill yourself, you should give preference to a machine equipped with a universal chuck. It allows you to clamp elements of various diameters.

Often included are:

• CBN circles;
• keys;
• collets;
• spare parts;
• lamp for the work area.

The most popular equipment is from Drill Doctor and GS. Similar products are designed for sharpening drills with a diameter of 2–13 mm and 14–34 mm. Unfortunately, this equipment does not allow sharpening very thin drills. For this purpose you will have to purchase a special machine.

All equipment designed for sharpening drills at home has a number of advantages:

• possibility of working from the mains;
• high performance;
• ease of use;
• functionality;
• sharpening accuracy;
• affordable price;
• compact dimensions;
• light weight;
• convenient control system, thanks to which you can adjust the intensity of sharpening and its speed.

Homemade sharpening devices

If you do not have the appropriate machine, you can sharpen it using other devices. We are talking about an electric drill or homemade equipment created according to a drawing . It's best to give preference to the second option, otherwise you may ruin a lot of drills before you master proper sharpening.

You can even create a suitable device with your own hands from wood. So, a beam with holes corresponding to the diameter of the drills is fixed on a horizontal surface. The holes mentioned above are made at a slight angle to obtain the required sharpening angle.

Some craftsmen prefer an electric drill equipped with appropriate attachments. Naturally, the range of such elements is small , which complicates sharpening with your own hands. As a rule, a stone and a leash are included with the nozzles. If you plan to sharpen drill bits using a specific drill, you should immediately shorten the driver.

If you wish, you can make a similar attachment for a drill yourself, following the recommendations given in the corresponding video. Such devices must be equipped with fasteners for fixing the drill.

Features of the sharpening process

If this is your first time deciding to sharpen a part with your own hands, do the work in strict sequence .

1. The back surface is treated first. So, press the drill tightly and constantly make sure that the sharpening angle remains the same. As a result of processing, the tip of the drill will resemble a regular cone.
2. Next comes the turn of the cutting part.
3. The last stage involves finishing the back surface. In this case, you must make sure that the size of the jumper is no more than 0.4 mm. Naturally, for a large metal drill, this parameter should be slightly larger.

If something doesn't work out right the first time, don't despair. It's best to start practicing with tools that you're unlikely to need. The main thing is to learn how to apply pressure correctly and maintain the angle. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the side parts of the drill, and not the tip, are responsible for drilling. Accordingly, the edges must be sharpened.

It is important to remember that the sharpening process produces small particles . Due to heating, they fly away in the form of sparks. It is for this reason that safety precautions must be followed. We are talking about using safety glasses and gloves. Also, when sharpening, you should make sure that the drill is securely fixed. Otherwise, it may accidentally fall out of your hands.

Recommendations for using the machine

If you decide to use an appropriate machine for sharpening, be sure to prepare your work area. In particular, we are talking about good lighting. You should also wear protective gloves and goggles .

• First of all, you should decide on the required sharpening angle.
• It is important to position yourself so that the grinding wheel is on the right.
• Alignment must be performed. To do this, take the working surface with your thumb and forefinger, and the second hand holds the tail edge.
• The metal drill must be rotated so that the cutting edge is parallel.
• An important point is the elimination of nicks.
• All movements should be performed in a certain sequence. So, the left hand is moved down to the left, and the right hand is moved clockwise.

To properly sharpen a drill with your own hands, you need to use a suitable device . This can be a household or industrial machine, as well as an electric drill with a special attachment. If you haven't tried sharpening a drill before, check out the corresponding video first.

Source: https://stanok.guru/metalloobrabotka/sverlenie-otverstiy/prisposobleniya-dlya-zatochki-sverl-svoimi-rukami-iz-metalla.html

Useful accessories for a screwdriver

A screwdriver is a device necessary not only in everyday life, but also in specialized areas of life. In itself, it is indispensable, but nowadays special devices for a screwdriver have been invented that make its work more efficient and productive. This makes it possible to create a universal tool, using it for unusual tasks in the future.

Magnetic attachment

When using a screwdriver, you often have to hold the screws so that they do not fall off the bit, thus risking the safety of your fingers. If handled carelessly, you can get, if not serious, then unpleasant injury.

The magnetic attachment makes it possible to hold the screws in place even with rough handling. Ideal for vertical drilling.

Stripping and twisting - 2 in 1

In order to connect wire strands, you must first clear them of insulation. After this you need to twist them. This is all a slow process that sometimes takes forever. But the original nozzle will cope with this work in the shortest period of time. This equipment is ideal for cleaning and twisting wires.

Chamfering

This tool is similar in external design to a pencil sharpener. It is used for chamfering rods and other rolled metal with a round cross-section. This will help with damaged threads or straighten the end of a cut bolt.

This device is extremely useful for cutting plastic and thin layers of metal. It is divided into two working areas and has a convenient handle that can be rearranged.

Drill sharpener

This device allows you to quickly and reliably sharpen drills at the correct angle without the risk of damaging them. It consists of a guide conductor and an abrasive, which rotates and sharpens. A reliable device that will be useful to any man.

Installation of rivets

A screwdriver with such an attachment can easily turn into a high-quality rivet tool. You won’t have to spend extra money on additional devices and allocate extra space for them. The tool does an excellent job and is highly popular.

Important! Each of the devices presented above can be easily purchased in specialized stores or in the Aliexpress online store.

Source: https://technosovet.ru/dlya-remonta/shurupovert/poleznye-prisposobleniya

Homemade tools for sharpening drills

A drill is perhaps one of the most common devices for mechanical processing of materials, both in everyday life and in production, which allows you to quickly and accurately make a hole in a surface with a wide variety of structures.

Whether it's a hand hammer, an electric drill, or a large radial drill press, they all use a drill bit as the cutting tool.

It is a hardened carbide metal rod of various diameters, with a shank and a working part in the form of two or more cutting edges, which, when rotated, remove material.

Drill angle: individual approach to each material

Depending on the type of surface, requirements for processing quality and a number of other conditions, the shape of the drill can have a very different appearance. The most common option is when its working part consists of two cutting edges twisted together in a spiral, forming a cone at the end of the drill, the height of which determines the sharpening angle of the drill. Its value depends on the hardness of the material being processed and can have its own values ​​for each material:

• carbon steels, alloys of cast iron and hard bronze - from 116º to 118º;
• products made of brass, soft bronze and copper – from 120º to 130º;
• aluminum and wooden surfaces – 140º;
• polymers and plastics – from 90º to 100º.

Conditions for a long and active drill life

If we exclude the thoughtless (or hopeless) option of using a drill without pobedit tips for working on concrete or stone (when the tool fails literally in a minute), then the cutting edges become dull most actively when drilling hard metals.

The service life of the drill in this case depends on the hardness of the surface being machined, as well as the rotation speed, feed force and the presence of cooling of the cutting tool. It is extremely easy to determine when the cutting qualities of a drill are deteriorating by the characteristic sharp whistle and the need for more pressure on the drill.

As a result, the drill heats up very quickly, drilling time increases significantly with a simultaneous decrease in the quality of the resulting hole, and the drill must be replaced to continue normal operation.

It’s better to lose an hour and then drill in five minutes

Since drills are considered consumables and have a relatively low cost in small sizes, many simply throw them away and replace them with new ones.

However, this approach can only be justified if the volume of work is small, the price of the part is low, and the proximity of a hardware store is close. It is much more economical and faster to sharpen a metal drill with your own hands.

There are a lot of devices for carrying out this operation, and, as a rule, the price of such equipment directly depends on the speed, versatility and quality of processing of the cutting tool.

The correct sharpening form is the key to effective work.

As a result of processing, the cutting edge of the drill is given a certain geometry, a priority for a particular diameter of the drill and the structure of the surface being processed. To obtain the required shape, accordingly, different methods of sharpening the cutting edge are used. There are single-plane, conical, two-plane, screw and cylindrical types of sharpening.

At home, the first two methods are most often used as the simplest, and drills with a diameter of up to three millimeters are sharpened in one plane, ensuring a thirty-degree slope of the rear corner.

The disadvantage in this case is the high probability of destruction of the working part of the edge due to its thinning, therefore, for drills of larger diameter, sharpening in the form of a cone is usually used, forming an angle at their tip in the range of 118-120º.

Ways to achieve the desired sharpening quality

In principle, if you have certain skills, sharpening can be done without an auxiliary tool. The main thing is to maintain the required processing angle, as well as the equal length of the working surface of the cutting edges and their symmetrical inclination relative to the drill axis.

However, achieving this in practice is not so easy; a very small error in any of the listed indicators is enough, and your drill will not work properly. The use of special devices simplifies the process, but you must agree that it is not advisable to purchase an expensive machine to put a pair of metal drills in order.

In addition, a homemade device for sharpening drills will help you cope with this task, albeit with less comfort, but also not bad.

With all the variety of design options, the operating principle of all devices of this type is based on the formation of a rigid template or guide along which the tool to be sharpened is fed to the emery wheel in a certain plane.

A nut, a screw, a direction - that’s all the device

Perhaps one of the fastest and most affordable options is to make a device for sharpening drills from a nut. Its six faces form an angle of 120º on adjacent planes and can serve as an excellent template for setting the desired sharpening angle of the cutting edge of the drill.

The procedure for making such a device is quite simple and does not take much time. The nut, flat side up, is clamped in a vice and, using an angle grinder (grinder), longitudinal cuts are made along the line connecting the opposing corners of the hexagon.

On one side of the hardware you can make six recesses (according to the number of vertices), thus forming three guides.

The size of the nut, as well as the width and depth of the guide sample, are selected based on the diameter of the drill being sharpened. After this, the entire outer surface of this simple device is carefully processed with sandpaper or a file to remove burrs.

That's all, the simplest device for sharpening drills with your own hands is ready. Now the drill that requires sharpening is placed inside the guide (between two opposing corners) so that the edge being processed slightly protrudes beyond the top of the hexagon.

The device is clamped in a vice, tightly fixing the drill in the groove of the nut with the tip up, and using the same grinder, carefully grind off the protruding cutting edge, using the side surfaces of the hardware as a guide, forming a sharpening angle of 120º.

If necessary, the drill in the groove can be secured with a clamp, and instead of an angle grinder, a sharpening machine with an emery wheel is used.

There is never too much hardware: modernization of a nut device

This design can be somewhat improved by making deeper (depending on the diameter of the drill being sharpened) V-shaped cuts in the opposing vertices and welding a smaller nut on the same side of the device. In this case, the drill can be fixed with a clamping screw screwed into a nut welded on top.

As a result, there is no need to use a vice and clamp (the main thing is not to pinch the screw so as not to bend the drill). Such a device allows you to successfully sharpen drills of even small diameters (up to three millimeters), when it is almost impossible to maintain and control the sharpening angle without special tools.

Wooden guides for sharpening drills

Now let's look at how to make a device for sharpening drills from blocks or thick plywood. The structure consists of a wooden guide rigidly attached to the base.

The base part of the device is made of a flat rectangular board (thick plywood) on one side of which a rectangular cutout is made to provide access to the side surface of the emery wheel.

Then an overlay is prepared from plywood in the form of a right triangle or trapezoid with a side slope at the base of 60º (from the top - 30º), which guarantees a sharpening angle of 120º. The dimensions of the guide should ensure free placement of the drill being sharpened along it, both in length and height.

The finished overlay is attached to the far edge of the base board using self-tapping screws at an acute angle towards the emery wheel. Sharpening drills for metal with a device of this type requires its clear fixation along the outer (wide) surface of the abrasive.

Each cutting edge is formed separately by smoothly rolling the drill towards the rotation of the circle, then the same procedure is repeated for the second side, achieving perfect balance. With frequent use, wear may occur on the wheel, and you will have to either move the device along the sandpaper or replace the abrasive.

This method is good because it makes it easy to obtain the required inclination of the cutting edge by quickly replacing the upper guide with the required size.

Using guide bushings for sharpening

Another option for processing drills, actively practiced at home, is a wooden vertical stand with hollow metal bushings of various diameters, which are placed in a block at the angle required for sharpening. As a result of machining, a cone is formed on the back of the cutting edges, but without the correct clearance angle.

Professional solutions: excellent results for little money

All homemade devices provide an acceptable, but, alas, imperfect result. Even without taking into account the high probability of error when making sharpening devices yourself, there are still a number of parameters, non-compliance with which leads to rapid failure of drills. That is why large manufacturers are developing complex devices and even machines to bring cutting tools into working condition.

One of these mechanisms is a device for sharpening drills, drill grinde, which makes it possible to restore the sharpness of spiral drills for metal with a diameter of three to nineteen millimeters.

The device easily copes with the task of forming a cutting edge of any inclination, while having a scale with standard sharpening angles (98, 118, 136 and 176 degrees, as well as for countersinks). Ideal sharpening quality is guaranteed by precise positioning of the drill thanks to the clamping screws.

The heel (rear corner of the cutting surface) is formed due to a small axial inclination, which sets the arc movement of the drill during processing.

Source: https://autogear.ru/article/617/10/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-sverl-kak-zatochit-sverlo/

How to make a device for sharpening drills with your own hands?

When working with workpieces, the working plane of the drill quickly wears out. A dull drill becomes very hot and loses its durability. The tool needs to be sharpened from time to time.

The modern market offers a lot of devices for sharpening drills that allow you to quickly, at the proper level and clearly restore the geometry of the cutting device, even if you do not have the skill to perform similar operations.

Meanwhile, you can avoid spending money on purchasing such devices, but make the simplest mechanism for sharpening drills with your own hands.

• Rules for sharpening different drills
• Features of working with the machine and materials
• How to make a machine for sharpening drills with your own hands?
• Some tips for selecting sanding wheels

Rules for sharpening different drills

Metal drills can be sharpened in specialized sharpening discs, manually or on a machine. Before starting work, carefully study the devices. If there is significant damage to the plane, it is necessary to start sharpening with the harshest abrasive. If the mechanism is slightly dull, use a finishing disc.

When sharpening a metal drill manually with your own hands, you must follow the instructions:

• hold the shank with one hand, and correct the active end with the other;
• treat the cutting edge of the metal with the side of the disk;
• First, one side is sharpened, after which the device is carefully turned over and the second is sharpened.

During processing, it is important to maintain the original shape of the drill and the direction of the cutting ends. You should ensure that the end of the edge does not move from the middle, otherwise during operation the mechanism will move to the side.

If after sharpening the angle of the cutting ends is not the same, the work of the drill will be of poor quality. This is determined using a template made with your own hands, or by eye: the shape of the edge should be a cone.

In order to eliminate simple errors, it is preferable to edit using special instruments.

Features of working with the machine and materials

No matter what device or machine the drill is sharpened for metal, its quality must be controlled. For this purpose, a special template is used, which, in addition, can be mass-produced or made with one’s own hands.

This sample is needed , first of all, to control the correctness of the angles of the cutting part that are created during sharpening the drill.

The tools used to work with different materials differ from each other, including the values ​​of such angles.

Working with various materials and knowing the angles of the cutting part for such materials, you can make a number of templates at once and use them to control the sharpening accuracy of the same drill, which acts as a multi-purpose tool. Making a device for sharpening drills with your own hands, after studying the drawings, is quite simple.

How to make a machine for sharpening drills with your own hands?

As a basis for the production of a homemade device for sharpening spiral-type drills, you can use any serial sharpening apparatus that can operate without runout and withstand significant overloads. When equipping such a machine with additional devices, the following conditions must be met:

1. The line of the tool rest must converge with the axis of rotation of the grinding wheel, and it can be placed in the same plane with it or be larger than it.
2. All components of the home-made installation being created must be securely secured to ensure the safety of sharpening work.
3. The design of its device must allow the possibility of sharpening drills both manually and automatically.
4. The tool rest must be positioned to position the drill shank in front of each corner.

When producing your own sharpening device, you do not require complex devices and scarce materials, which must be manufactured and purchased in addition. All components can be found in virtually any household workshop or garage. As equipment and devices with which such components will be modified before assembling the device, you can use an ordinary grinder and a welding machine.

Since the stop of a homemade device must be swinging, which is required for sharpening metal drills in automatic mode, a loop connection must be used to fix it. When choosing a tube, holder and bolt for fastening , you must keep in mind that there should be no play in the machine.

The platform of its device, in which a drill is fixed, which can rotate along a vertical axis, provides the opportunity to change the angle of sharpening the tool. In addition, the tool rest, based on a straight axis, can perform oscillatory movements, which guarantees correct articulation during sharpening.

To produce the structural components of such a device, sheet metal of different thicknesses and a drawing are independently used, namely:

• support plate 4 millimeters;
• guide plate for drill 5 mm;
• other components of the structure are 3 millimeters.

The device arm, in the upper part of which the main plate is installed, should be securely secured to the machine body. For this purpose, an auxiliary iron part is used, connected to the device bracket.

Guide plate , in the plane of which a triangular groove should be made, designed to accommodate the tool being processed, is fixed in the main plate with the support of a screw-shaped connection.

A drill, sharpened independently using such a device, is placed in a guide groove and can move freely in it in the longitudinal direction. In this case, the sharpening angle of the tool does not change.

Some tips for selecting sanding wheels

To do this, in order to successfully sharpen metal, most of which is made from high-speed steel, you should use a fairly strong grinding wheel. In this capacity, it is allowed to use an abrasive tool made of silicon carbide. Such circles should have a grain size in the 8H – 16H spectrum.

When using discs made of this material , you should keep in mind that they get very hot during operation, so you should not allow the device to be sharpened to be in long contact with the tool.

In order to prevent overheating of the material when sharpening on a disk, the tool should be constantly cooled using a solution of soda and water.

Drill sharpening

Source: https://remontoni.guru/instrumenty-i-oborudovanie/kak-sdelat-prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-sverl-svoimi-rukami.html

A tool for sharpening drills should be in the arsenal of any home craftsman.

When working with hard workpieces, the working surface of the drill wears out quickly. A dull drill becomes very hot and loses strength. This occurs due to the “releasing” of the metal. The tool must be sharpened periodically. However, this applies not only to drills.

Drills are inexpensive devices. In any case, those models that are used in the household. However, it is wasteful to buy a new tip every time it becomes dull.

There are factory-made sharpening devices, but this violates the concept of economical use of home tools.

Wood drills practically do not become dull, except that the tool can be “driven” at high speeds into a resinous workpiece. Pobedit tips for concrete and stone cannot be sharpened. All that remains is to sharpen the drill for metal. Many experienced locksmiths carry out this procedure with their own hands, without any equipment.

However, the accuracy of the work leaves much to be desired, and not every home craftsman has such a professionally developed eye. In any case, minimal mechanization is necessary.

How to make a homemade device for sharpening drills?

First of all, you need to acquire a means of control. No matter how you sharpen the drill, you need a template to check the accuracy of the work.

Conventional drills for working with ferrous metals have an edge angle of 115-120 degrees. If you have to work with different materials, check out the table of angles:

Processed material	sharpening angle
Steel, cast iron, carbide bronze	115-120
Brass alloys, soft bronze	125-135
Red copper	125
Aluminum and soft alloys based on it	135
Ceramics, granite	135
Wood of any species	135
Magnesium and alloys based on it	85
Silumin	90-100
Plastic, textolite	90-100

Knowing these values, you can prepare several templates and, in accordance with them, sharpen yourself. In this case, you can use the same drill for different workpieces, you just need to change the angle of the top of the working area.

The simplest, but very effective sharpening device is bushings of different diameters, mounted on some kind of base.
Schematic drawing of the device in the illustration:

It is best to make a whole clip of copper or aluminum tubes, to fit standard drill sizes. Or drill a sufficient number of holes in a block of soft material. The main thing is to install a comfortable tool rest on your sharpener, which will allow you to move the sharpening device at the right angle and serve as a reliable support.

Our grandfathers used this method. Only an oak block was used as a material for the manufacture of a sharpening machine - an angle.

In principle, it was enough to place a table or workbench opposite the side surface of the emery - and the sharpening machine was ready. At the same time, the quality and accuracy of processing was at a high level.

There are different drawings of sharpening devices.

You can use a ready-made one, or develop it yourself. The main thing is to understand the principle of working with a drill.

If the tool turns even a millimeter, it will be damaged and you will have to grind off some distance for reprocessing.

After finishing sharpening, let the drill cool and take measurements using a template. Both edges must be symmetrical to within tenths of a millimeter. This is especially important for small diameter drills.

The diagram shows typical mistakes in self-sharpening:

1. The angles are chosen correctly and symmetrically - and the lengths of the cutting edges are not the same. The drilling center is offset relative to the drill axis. When working with such a tool, beats will occur; when you start drilling, it will be impossible to accurately hit the markings. The drill is highly likely to break;
2. Centering is accurate, cutting edge angles are asymmetrical. When creating a hole, only one cutting working part will work. Drilling will be slower and the tip will quickly overheat. It is possible for the hardened metal to “release” from heating. In addition, the hole will be broken, and its diameter will be larger than the diameter of the drill.

The basis is a household sharpening machine with a proud inscription “made in Germany”, which has all the signs of a product from the Middle Kingdom. However, it works properly, there is no axle runout, and it maintains speed under load.

The technical specifications are as follows:

• the tool rest must be strictly on the same horizontal line (or above it) with the axis of rotation of the emery;
• the design is durable and reliable, ensuring work safety;
• It should be possible to sharpen both manually and semi-automatically - using a device;
• The shape of the tool rest allows you to freely lower the drill shank to the required angle.

No scarce parts are required to manufacture the device. All the materials were actually lying underfoot in the barn. The processing of the workpieces was carried out with a grinder, the same modernized sharpener, and welding.

Since the emphasis was supposed to be made swinging (for semi-automatic mode), a loop connection was made. The holes of the tube, bracket and bolt are precisely selected to ensure there are no backlashes. The resulting device has two degrees of freedom.

The platform can be rotated along the vertical axis - changing the sharpening angle of the drill. This axis is fixed. The tool rest can also swing based on a horizontal axis, ensuring proper articulation during sharpening. This degree of freedom is not fixed.

For the base plate, metal with a thickness of 4 mm was chosen, the remaining structural elements were 3 mm thick. The strength is more than sufficient. The tool rest is rigidly connected to the emery body. Of course, attaching it to the protective casing is unacceptable, so we screw the bracket using an additional metal “cheek”.

The actual guide plate for drills is screwed to the tool rest (more precisely, to the support plate). The plate is 5 mm thick and has a triangular groove cut into it for fixing the drill during processing.

The rotation angle of the structure is 90 degrees. This will ensure sharpening in any way, from the Leontiev method - to pressing at one angle with the development of an acute angle of the edge due to the curvature of the sandpaper.

The drill bit being processed is not only firmly held in the groove - it can be freely fed to the abrasive along the groove, without the slightest deviation of the sharpening angle.

Due to the slight excess of the plane of the base plate above the axis of rotation of the disk, the optimal shape of sharpening the back of the working edge is achieved.

Before starting work, press the drill against the plate and align the cutting edge parallel to the plate. This completes the adjustment and you can move the tool to the sandpaper. Sharpening a drill requires certain skills; do everything slowly, carefully pay attention to the sharpening angle.

The accuracy of the work is the highest; a template is actually not required. It takes some time to install the device and adjust the angle, but you can quickly sharpen a couple of dozen drills without spending any effort.

If you need to sharpen a drill with a carbide attachment, the swinging plate can be fixed at a fixed angle. To do this, you just need to place a couple of washers under the axle nut.

A few words about the emery wheel

Typically, for universal tasks, a white corundum wheel is used in a home sharpener. It sharpens knives, axes and shovels very well. It can be used to quickly process metal workpieces.

When sharpening carbide drills (and high-speed metal also requires a harder disc), a green abrasive wheel made of silicon carbide is used.
Such circles are marked 64C. The grit size for household work is usually 25H.

When sharpening drills, a finer fraction is required; it is better to work in the range 8H - 16H. It must be remembered that silicon carbide sandpapers become very hot during operation. Therefore, you cannot keep the drill in contact with the abrasive for a long time. After 2-3 approaches, let the metal cool. It is best to cool it with water and soda.

The peripheral surface of the emery, as the main processing surface, must be perfectly flat. You can straighten it with a CBN nozzle. For discs of small diameter, it is quite possible to get by with pliers that hold the CBN cutter.

Source: https://obinstrumente.ru/ruchnoj-instrument/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-sverl.html

Do-it-yourself drill sharpening: suitable tools and recommendations for doing the job, video - SibNovStroy

Metal drills are always hardened, but the products may become dull over time. Naturally, this is not a reason to throw them away. If you wish, you can sharpen the drill yourself using professional equipment or homemade devices.

Do-it-yourself drill sharpening device - Metalworker's Handbook

If you constantly deal with sharpening hard workpieces, the surface of the drill will very quickly become unusable.

It will become dull, become very hot and eventually lose its former strength. All this is a consequence of “letting go” of the metal.

That is why such a tool needs periodic sharpening using special devices .

How to make homemade devices for sharpening drills, what templates exist for this and what you need to prepare for work, you will learn from our article.

• Features of sharpening drills
• How to properly make a tool for sharpening drills with your own hands: training video
• Features of sharpening on a simple device
• Using an emery wheel in a homemade sharpening tool

Features of sharpening drills

Drills are inexpensive devices, especially if we talk about those that are widely used for household needs. However, if possible, then after they become dull, it is better to sharpen the tools than to buy new ones.

There are factory-made devices designed for sharpening, but buying them will cost you a lot, and this will not make up for the savings from not purchasing new tools. That is why many craftsmen assemble sharpening machines .

It is worth noting that dulling concerns metal drills, since wood tools are practically not susceptible to this, except when used at high speeds with resinous workpieces. Also, pobedit tips for stone or concrete cannot be sharpened

But many people sharpen metal drills using all the additional devices with their own hands, but the accuracy of such work is far from always ideal, so it is advisable to use at least a minimum of mechanics.

Perhaps it is useful for everyone to know how to properly sharpen a drill for metal.

How to properly make a tool for sharpening drills with your own hands: training video

To make such a device yourself, you will need a control tool (template). No matter how the drill is sharpened, the accuracy is checked with a special template.

Simple ferrous metal drills have an edge angle of 115 to 120 degrees. If the metal is different, then the sharpening angles will also be different:

• for carbide bronze, steel or cast iron it is also from 115 to 120 degrees;
• for soft bronze or brass alloys - from 125 to 135, respectively;
• for red copper 125 degrees;
• for aluminum and soft aluminum alloys, granite, ceramics and wood – 135 degrees;
• for magnesium and its alloys – 85 degrees;
• for plastic, textolite and silumin - from 90 to 100 degrees.

You can prepare several templates depending on the listed values ​​and, in accordance with them, sharpen them yourself. The same drill can be used for different types of workpieces; you just need to change the angles of the top of the workbench.

A simple but very convenient pulling device consists of bushings of different sizes that are attached to the base. You can make them yourself, based on special drawings. Remember that the tool should not be loose in the sleeve, and the quality of drilling may deteriorate even if the error is only one degree.

You can make a large clip based on aluminum or copper tubes, depending on the standard parameters of the drills, or you can take a block of soft material and make many holes in it. It is very important to place a convenient support in the sharpener, thanks to which you can move the sharpening device at the desired angle and hold the stop.

The listed sharpening devices have been manufactured for many decades in a row and are still in demand. To assemble a sharpening machine with your own hands, you can take an oak block instead of a corner.

The simplest sharpening machine can be assembled by simply installing a workbench or table opposite the side of the emery. Even such a simple device ensures high quality and accuracy of work.

Features of sharpening on a simple device

On the Internet you can find ready-made drawings of devices for sharpening drills, or sketch them yourself, but to do this you need to understand the principle of working with a drill.

During operation, it is strictly forbidden to allow the drill to move around its axis. If it turns at least a millimeter, it will be damaged, and you will have to grind off a small distance to re-process it.

After finishing work, the drill should cool down , also take measurements with templates. The edges must be perfectly symmetrical down to tenths of a millimeter. This is especially important if the drill has a minimum diameter.

Sharpening may be accompanied by the following errors:

• the angles will be regular and symmetrical, but the length of the cutting edges will not. In this case, the drilling center will shift relative to the axis, as a result of which beats appear. At the very beginning of work, it will be difficult to hit the markings, and the drill itself may break;
• When the angles of the cutting edge are asymmetrical to each other, the alignment is accurate. When creating holes, only one cutting part works, the work occurs very slowly and the tip heats up quickly. There may be “releasing” of the hardened metal due to heating, the hole may be broken, and the diameter will exceed the diameter of the drill.

to assemble a sharpening machine for twist drills for metal with your own hands using available materials

For the basis of the device, you can take any sharpening machine that is capable of working properly, there is no axis runout, and it maintains speed under load.

The task looks like this:

• the tool rest must stand strictly horizontally on the same axis with the rotation of the emery;
• the design must be safe, reliable and durable;
• it should be possible to sharpen both manually and semi-automatically;
• the shape of the tool rest should facilitate the free lowering of the drill shank to the desired angle.

No specific parts are required to make this device; every home craftsman has almost everything he needs. The workpieces are processed with a grinder , welding or sharpening .

For semi-automatic mode, a swing stop is assumed, so you need to make a loop connection. Accurately select the holes of the bolt, bracket and tube there are no backlashes

The platform must move along a vertical axis so that you can change the sharpening angle of the drill. This axis can be fixed, and the tool rest should swing, while resting on the horizontal axis, which, when sharpening, provides the necessary articulation.

The base plate is made of metal 4 mm thick, and the main parts of the structure should have a thickness of 3 mm respectively.

This ensures its high strength. The tool rest is rigidly connected to the emery body.

It cannot be attached to the protective casing, so screw the bracket using the metal “cheek”.

Then we screw the guide plate itself for drills with a thickness of 5 mm to the support plate. A triangular groove is sawn into it to secure the drill during processing .

The design has a rotation angle of 90 degrees, which allows sharpening using different methods . Starting from the Leontiev method and ending with pressing at a certain angle and creating an acute angle of the edge due to the curvature of the sandpaper.

During processing, the drill will not only stand firmly in the groove , it can also be fed along the groove to the abrasive, and the sharpening angle will not deviate. Due to the partial excess of the plane of the support plate above the axis of movement of the disk, it is possible to achieve the desired shape of sharpening the back of the edge.

Before performing work, the drill should be pressed against the plate and the cutting edge should be aligned parallel to it. The adjustment is now complete and you can bring the tool to the sandpaper. Sharpening must be done slowly and carefully, carefully monitoring the angle.

Thanks to this homemade tool, high sharpening accuracy and there is virtually no need for a template. True, it will take time to install the machine and adjust the angle, but then you can easily quickly sharpen the drills in the required quantity.

But if you need to sharpen a drill equipped with a carbide attachment, you can attach a swinging plate to a fixed angle. To do this, place several washers under the axle nut.

Using an emery wheel in a homemade sharpening tool

For universal sharpening work, white wheels based on electrocorundum are mainly used. They are used for sharpening shovels, axes, knives and metal workpieces.

For the purpose of processing carbide drills or high-speed metals, you need to take abrasive green wheels based on silicon carbide marked 64C. But for household needs, a wheel grit of 25N is sufficient.

Sharpening drills requires a finer fraction in the range from 8H to 16H . Remember that silicon carbide-based abrasives get very hot during operation, so the drill cannot be kept in contact with such abrasive for a long time. Let the metal cool down after 2-3 approaches and cool it in soda water.

The peripheral surface of the emery must be smooth during processing. It can be adjusted with a CBN-based nozzle. If the disk has a small diameter, it is permissible to use pliers in which the CBN cutter will be held.

So, we looked at how at home you can assemble and use devices of varying complexity for sharpening drills and more. You can choose the appropriate option depending on your household needs.

Homemade machine for sharpening drills

Source: https://ssk2121.com/ustroystvo-dlya-zatochki-sverl-svoimi-rukami/

A device for sharpening drills with your own hands

Translated by alexlevchenko for mozgochiny.ru

I admit, sharpening a tool has always caused me quiet horror. You need to think not only about the rotating sharpening stone, which is a source of potential danger, but also maintain the sharpening angle. I think the article will be useful for beginning brainiacs, and I kindly ask experienced comrades to supplement the information below or tell us about your method of maintaining the sharpening angle.

Materials

Tools

• Protractor;
• Malka (device) is a carpentry and metalworking tool for marking and measuring angles, drawing parallel lines. Consists of two parts, fastened together with a clamping screw. The thicker part (block - base) is pressed against the workpiece, and markings are made along the thin part (ruler). Sometimes a scale for measuring angles is applied between the two parts of the fish. Large fry can be used for construction work;
• Drill with wood drill;
• Screwdriver.

Step 1: 59 degrees

Draw two straight lines on paper at an angle of 59 degrees. The goal is to sharpen the drill at this angle.

Step 2: Mark the corner on the block

Using a crowbar, transfer the 59 degree angle to the wooden block. I used hardwood as a blank. The thickness of the bar is 15 mm. The guide will be a screw with a fine thread pitch for a slotted screwdriver, so the through hole should be slightly smaller in diameter than the diameter of the screw so that it is screwed tightly into the block. Drilling into wood with a drill is easier when you start drilling at an angle. We determine by eye the place where it is most convenient to place the screw.

Step 3: Screw in and check the angle

We screw the screw into the block. You should determine in advance the maximum diameter of the drill that will be sharpened. For this craft, the drill diameter will be greater than 15 mm. Therefore, you should choose a screw of sufficient length so that it passes through the block and protrudes half of the largest diameter of the drill being sharpened.

If the angle at which the screw exits the block does not match the reference line, drill another hole and try again.

Step 4: Use a reference

Turn the screw a few turns so that the end of the thread is above the center of the drill.

Once you have sharpened one side (using the threads of the screw as marks), turn the drill bit halfway and look at the marks on the screw. Repeat the operation for the other side of the drill.

Step 5: Sharpening

As for sharpening drills, the website provides a detailed article on How to sharpen a drill - manual/non-standard/special sharpening of drills. In addition to the material presented in it, I suggest watching the video of the English-speaking Kulibin.

Thank you for your attention)

(Az Source)

Source: http://mozgochiny.ru/minifix/prisposoba-dlya-zatochki-sverl-svoimi-rukami/

Device for sharpening drills: how to make it yourself, instructions and useful tips

When drilling various holes in parts made of metal, the tool used is subject to severe wear, which leads to intense heating of the drills and, as a result, to their failure.

In order to eliminate this, their geometric characteristics should be constantly renewed, which a special device for sharpening drills can help to do with high quality.

This well-known household thing, which you can do yourself, makes it possible to quickly and efficiently sharpen dull drills and not spend money on getting new tools.

Fixture drawings

A sharpening device is considered especially important in cases where devices often need to be worked on metal , as a result of which they quickly wear out and require constant renewal.

When processing wood, the drill used hardly wears out, and therefore requires the least attention to the parameters of its own sharpening.

For tools whose cutting part is equipped with carbide inserts, such a device is also not particularly important, since they are almost never subject to regrinding and are used by specialists until they are completely worn out or broken.

Many experienced experts use sharpening devices; drawings are needed to create them. As practice shows, it is more correct to use devices that allow mechanization of the process. This guarantees maximum reliability and the required quality of the result.

On the modern market there are a large number of devices for sharpening various drills, allowing you to quickly, high-quality and accurately restore the geometry of the cutting device, even if you do not have the skill to perform such operations. Meanwhile, you can not spend money on obtaining such devices, but make a simple sharpening machine with your own hands, using a drill and other devices.

Options

No matter what machine the drill is sharpened on, its quality should be controlled . For this, a template is used, which can also be serial or made with your own hands.

This option is needed primarily to control the correct angle of the cutting part, which is formed when sharpening the drill. Devices used to work with various materials differ in angle sizes.

A table of sharpening angles for metal drills will help you find out clear data.

Working with different materials and knowing the angles of the cutting part of the drills, you can make a number of templates at once and use them to control the sharpening accuracy in order to sharpen a spiral drill for wood, concrete, and metal.

Simple model

As a simple sharpening device, you can use a sleeve with a diameter corresponding to the size of the drill, attached to a safe base at a certain angle.

When choosing a sleeve for such a device, you should ensure that the diameter of its internal hole exactly corresponds to the transverse size of the drill being sharpened.

The mechanism being finished should not be allowed to wobble in such a hole, since even a 1-2° difference in its axis from the required value can seriously reduce the quality and reliability of the sharpening performed.

Source: https://101sovet.guru/instrument/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-sverl

Making tools for sharpening drills with your own hands

The modern market is saturated with many types of different equipment designed for sharpening drilling tools. When using it, you do not need to have any special skills or training. For example, such devices include industrial devices riss 8100v, which have a high cost. To save money, you can make a tool for sharpening a metal drill with your own hands.

Specifics of device operation

Electric drills and screwdrivers are often used in households for drilling various materials such as wood, concrete, metal and ceramics. Many users of such equipment have repeatedly encountered a problem that causes the working part of the drilling tool to become dull during operation.

When working with metal, intense heating of the cutting part of the drill may occur, which exposes it to rapid wear and further unsuitability for use. To avoid this, it is necessary to periodically check the geometric standards of the cutting part and, if possible, sharpen it to the required parameters. Twist drills are usually used for drilling metals. Additional checking of the tool before performing work extends its service life.

When working with wood, the cutting part is practically resistant to wear, and concrete drills are equipped with hard pobedit plates, which do not need sharpening and are used until they are completely worn out.

Drill sharpening tools

Both on an industrial device and on a home-made drill sharpening device, it is recommended to use a specialized template necessary to comply with the requirements for the tool. Using a template makes it possible to set the required angle of the cutting part of the drill, which ensures high accuracy during operation. During drilling work, it is necessary to individually select the sharpening angle of the tool, depending on the materials used.

Source: https://pochini.guru/sovety-mastera/prisposoblenie-dlya-zatochki-svyorl

Homemade drill sharpening tool

One of the main parameters of a twist drill is the tip angle, which for durable metals (steel, cast iron, hard bronze, titanium, etc.) is approximately 120 degrees. Deviation of this angle more or less from the nominal value makes it difficult for the drill to operate effectively.

In the first case, productivity drops and the tool overheats; in the second, the drill may simply break, unable to withstand the excessive load. In order to comply with the sharpening parameters without special devices, you must have high qualifications and experience as a tool sharpener.

Well, it will be almost impossible for a non-specialist, especially in domestic conditions, to do this.

But, having some tools and simple materials, you can make a not very complicated, but reliable device for sharpening the corner at the tip of a twist drill for hard metal.

What you might need to work on the device

To do this you will need the following tools:

• calipers;
• marker;
• metal vice;
• Bulgarian;
• pliers;
• welding machine;
• sharpening machine with an emery wheel.

Materials you need to have on hand for work:

• regular hex nut;
• castle nut;
• bolt of the same size and thread as the nuts;
• twist drill that requires sharpening.

Manufacturing process

The peculiarity of a hex nut is that any two adjacent faces meet at an angle of 120 degrees. The apex angle of a twist drill for working on hard metals is approximately the same size. This random coincidence can be used to make a tool for sharpening a twist drill.

To do this, using a caliper and a marker on the nut, mark the cutting lines to create a triangular slot, symmetrical with respect to the diagonal connecting two opposite corners of the nut. The drill will be placed longitudinally into it before the sharpening process.

To cut out the intended triangular groove in the nut, it is clamped in a vice and, using a grinder, cuts are made along pre-drawn lines. You can use pliers to remove sawed off pieces of the nut.

Next, take a castle nut and weld it with its base to the first nut on the side of the cut groove. Moreover, it is necessary to maintain their absolute alignment, because when small-diameter drills are sharpened, the bolt, having passed through the castle nut, will begin to screw into the lower nut in order to firmly clamp the drill in its groove.

Now we screw the corresponding bolt into the castle nut, which will securely press the drill placed in the sharpening groove on the sandpaper of the sharpening machine.

All that remains is to sharpen the drill on an emery wheel, using the edges of the lower nut as a template.

To do this, we simply grind the protruding part of the drill flush with the edges of the nut, which even a first-year vocational school student can easily cope with.

After sharpening is completed, the bolt is loosened, the drill is removed from the homemade device and can be used for its intended purpose.

Additions and improvements

During the welding process of nuts, liquid metal may splash onto the threads of castle and regular nuts.
To eliminate this nuisance, it is necessary to screw a bolt into them and thereby protect the thread. Since it will not be possible to cover all the diameters of drills with one device, at least two template clamps will be required: one for small drills, the other for large products. Accordingly, in the first case the nuts will be small in size, and in the second - large.

Watch the video

Source: https://coollifehack.ru/samodelnyj-instrument-dlja-zatochki-sverla/

Recommendations for sharpening drills with your own hands and making a device for this

During the processing of hard products, drills are subject to rapid wear. The blunt working element heats up significantly and loses its strength characteristics. This happens due to the “releasing” of the metal alloy. The tool needs to be sharpened from time to time. However, this point concerns not only drilling devices.

• How to make your own drill sharpener
• Errors
• Recommendations

Drills are fairly cheap products. At least the variations used at home. One way or another, it is at least unwise to purchase a new nozzle immediately after it becomes dull.

There are also factory-made sharpening products, but this violates the concept of appropriate use of a home tool.

Drills designed for wood processing almost never become dull. The product can only be “driven” in a resinous structure and at high speeds. Pobedit tips, necessary for processing stone and concrete, are usually not sharpened. All that remains is to sharpen the tools for metal. Some experienced locksmiths do this work with their own hands, without resorting to the use of additional tools.

But in this case, the accuracy and quality of work may be questionable. And not every home craftsman has a good eye.

Helpful advice: do not try to sharpen drills with sandpaper or a file - there is absolutely no point in doing so. For this purpose you need to use an electric sharpener.

How to make your own drill sharpener

First you need to make a template that will allow you to control the accuracy of processing.

Ordinary drills designed for working with ferrous metal are characterized by an edge angle of 115 to 120 degrees. If you constantly work with various materials, then you should familiarize yourself with the following information:

• textolite and plastic - from 90 to 100 degrees;
• any wood - 135;
• granite and ceramics - 135;
• cast iron, carbide bronze and steel - from 115 to 120;
• soft bronze and brass-based alloys - from 125 to 135;
• aluminum alloys - 135.

Based on this data, you can make several useful templates that will help you sharpen the drill with the highest quality and precision.

The simplest sharpening option is different bushings, which are attached to a reliable and strong base.

It is recommended to make a clip from aluminum and copper tubes, matching them to the most common drill diameters. You can also drill several holes in a block of non-solid material. The most important thing is to place a comfortable tool rest on the sharpener, which serves as a support and allows you to move the sharpening device at the required angle.

This method was actively used by our grandfathers. And for the material of the corner (sharpening machine), they used strong oak timber.

In fact, it’s enough to place a workbench or table on the side of the emery - and the device for sharpening drills with your own hands is ready. At the same time, the level of accuracy and quality of sharpening will be extremely high.

There are many drawings for making the design of sharpening devices. You can resort to ready-made options or make them yourself. The most important thing is to understand the processing principle.

When processing, you should not allow the drill to rotate around its own axis. If the tool is turned even a millimeter, it will be damaged and you will be forced to grind off a certain length for additional processing.

Errors

The most common mistakes in self-sharpening drills include the following:

1. The corners are made symmetrically and correctly, but the lengths of the edges for cutting differ from each other. In this case, the center of drilling is uneven relative to the axis of the tool. While using this tool, beats will occur. At the beginning of work, it will be extremely difficult to get into the applied markings. In this case, the working element will most likely simply break.
2. The alignment is accurate, but the cutting edge has asymmetrical angles. It follows from this that when drilling a hole, only one working surface will work. That is, the processing procedure will proceed very slowly, and the working part may overheat and break. In addition, the hole will be broken, that is, its size will be larger than the size of the drill used.

In order to make a device for sharpening drills yourself, you should adhere to the following rules:

• the tool rest should be located on the same plane with the axis of the emery;
• the design must have a high level of reliability and strength;
• the machine must be absolutely safe to operate;
• the installation must have the function of both manual and semi-automated sharpening;
• the handpiece should have a convenient shape.

All the tools to create such a device can be found even at home or in the garage. They should be processed with a grinder, welding and a sharpener.

Source: https://tokar.guru/instrumenty/sverla/prisposoblenie-dlya-samostoyatelnoy-zatochki-sverl.html