How to restore a soldering iron

How to solder a wire without a soldering iron - My site

How to restore a soldering iron

How to solder without a soldering iron if you don’t have this tool at hand, or if the electricity suddenly turns off? There are several ways to connect wires using simple improvised means.

The main components of any soldering are flux and solder. If the latter can still be obtained using an unnecessary old board from any device, then in order to replace the flux with something, you have to use ingenuity and basic knowledge of chemistry.

How to replace a soldering iron

The operating principle of any soldering iron is to heat and constantly maintain the operating temperature of the main component - a metal rod called a tip.

The most common material for making tips is copper, as it has high thermal conductivity, low cost and greatly facilitates the tinning process.

From this we can conclude that for good soldering you need to use a rod or piece of copper wire. There are many “folk” methods of how to solder without a soldering iron. Here are some of the simplest and most effective.

In order to make an improvised soldering iron, you will need two pieces of wire of different diameters - short (10-15 cm, cross-section 3-4 mm) and long (30-40 cm, cross-section 0.5-1 mm). A short piece will be used as a sting.

Its tip must be flattened with a hammer and trimmed with a file to the desired shape. A long piece is wrapped around the tip in the form of a tight spiral and serves to maintain a more or less constant operating temperature.

The end of the spiral should not reach the opposite edge of the tip by 2-3 cm, since it will be necessary to hold the soldering iron being created with pliers. This device should be heated over an open fire or electric stove, and only the area on which the spiral is wound is exposed to temperature.

It will evenly distribute heat along the entire length of the thick wire and will retain it for some time. It should be noted that solder melts at different temperatures, depending on its composition. Soldering may require heating from 180 to 280°C, so thick wire will take longer to heat up, but will work for a fairly long period of time.

To save time, soldering can be done with pre-molten solder, or the solder can be trimmed into shavings with a sharp knife. This will reduce the heat required to melt the material.

If you don’t have copper wire at hand, you can use a regular nail or screwdriver to solder the materials, but they cool very quickly in the air, as a result of which you can only solder for a few seconds, after which heating is required again.

Another very simple method of soldering wires, which can be used even in the field, requires the following materials:

  • a small piece of aluminum foil;
  • rosin or any other flux (options for replacing flux will be discussed below);
  • solder (can be removed from an old non-working device);
  • matches or lighter.

First you need to connect the two wires that need to be soldered in the form of a regular twist. You should take a piece of foil, fold it in half to form a tray, into which you then need to pour flux and small solder shavings in a ratio of 1 to 4.

Then you need to lay the wires on the foil so that the twisted area falls on the backfilled mixture. You can add a little more fluxed solder on top to ensure that the wire is securely soldered. After this, you will need to wrap the foil tightly around the future soldering site and heat it with matches or a lighter. Usually 15-20 seconds are enough to solder the wires to each other.

Flux and its substitutes

Fluxes are substances or mixtures thereof that greatly facilitate the soldering process. They remove the oxide film from the surface of materials, ensure wetting of the metal with solder and improve its spreading. The most common flux is rosin.

It consists of a mixture of organic acids, which, when interacting with oxides, reduce them to metals. In addition to rosin, the following substances can be used as flux:

  • ammonia;
  • borax;
  • orthophosphoric acid;
  • acetylsalicylic acid;
  • glycerol;
  • zinc chloride.

For cases when you urgently need to solder a pair of wires together, but rosin is not available, flux can be bought at a regular pharmacy or taken from a home medicine cabinet, since acetylsalicylic acid, better known as aspirin, is an excellent substitute for rosin.

In addition to aspirin, you can use any other acid as a flux, for example, citric acid. Regular glycerin, which is sold at the pharmacy, or thin soap shavings are also suitable, since they also contain glycerin.

After using such improvised fluxes, the surface of the soldering site should be cleaned of their excess. A baking soda solution is used for this, but some parts, especially electronics, cannot be treated this way. Therefore, in order to avoid further corrosion, re-soldering should be done at the first opportunity using specialized tools.

I also recommend reading:

How to properly tin a soldering iron: useful tips

How to assemble a soldering gun with your own hands

How to solder plastic pipes correctly

How to solder a wire without a soldering iron?

Modern technologies simplify our life: you can even use technology such as soldering wires without a soldering iron. It appeared recently, but has already become indispensable: its use is often easier than working with a real device.

Soldering is one of the types of joining metal parts, applied to unloaded products. Connects non-ferrous metals of small sizes, connection in another way, which is impossible.

Used in electrical engineering to work with low- and medium-current wires.

The soldering method involves connecting metal surfaces by applying a low-melting metal that has a high coefficient of adhesion to the surfaces being connected and good conductivity.

The tool itself - the soldering iron - determines the method of applying the connecting substance. But there are methods that explain how to solder a wire without a soldering iron in extreme conditions where there is no electricity.

Example of soldering wires without a soldering iron

Materials for soldering wires without a soldering iron

The difference between the methods is the shape and temperature of the solder applied. In this case, the shape of the material with which you can solder the wire without a soldering iron becomes decisive. This is solder, which can come in various forms:

  • the familiar composition of rosin, tin or a tin-lead mixture in ingots;
  • the same solder, rolled into thin foil, 0.5-0.7 mm wide;
  • paste, where solder is a mixture made from powders and an acid solution of various metals and rosin;

Source: http://electricdo.ru/kak-pripayat-provod-bez-payalnika.html

10 best soldering stations

How to restore a soldering iron

Place Name Characteristics in the rating
The best contact soldering stations
The best soldering stations with a hair dryer function

Conventional soldering irons have long since faded into the background since modern and functional soldering stations appeared on sale. These are more powerful and easy-to-use devices that, with experience, allow you to easily carry out complex repair work on electronics and other devices.

Soldering stations come in a variety of varieties, differing in power and functionality. Some models are ideal for home use, combining low cost and sufficient power, while others are more useful to professionals.

The rating of the best soldering stations will help you choose your preferred option.

Contact soldering stations resemble a regular soldering iron, but with a temperature control unit. Depending on the power of the device, they are designed to work with tin-lead or lead-free solders. The power of the latter is usually higher, reaching 160 W. But they are also more functional, since thanks to temperature control, they can work with any solder.

5 REXANT 12-0152

Not the most powerful, but quite convenient soldering station with analog temperature control from 100 to 450 degrees, suitable for radio amateurs and home use.

The advantages of the model include the presence of a convenient stand, a thin tip, suitable for performing the smallest jobs. Despite its Chinese origin, the model is assembled well, nothing hangs loose or comes off.

The sting does not heat up instantly, but rather quickly. The device copes well with the task of home amateur soldering.

Among the disadvantages, users point out that it is very difficult to find “original” replacement tips for this model, but you can use similar ones from Svetlozar. Not everyone likes the fact that the station itself is too light, which makes it seem unstable, and the rubber pad on the soldering iron handle sometimes slips.

A simple, inexpensive, but successful model for use at home. Made from high-quality materials, the soldering station is small in size and weight. The ergonomic two-component handle does not heat up during operation, the temperature adjustment is analogue, but smooth, due to which a fairly accurate adjustment of the degree of heating is achieved. Antistatic protection makes work as safe as possible; the thin wedge-shaped tip heats up quickly.

Users are pleased with the ability to smoothly adjust the heating from 150 to 480 degrees, a comfortable stand and handle. Due to its small size, the device takes up very little space, and the analogue controller works great. There are no serious complaints about the quality of the device or its functionality - this is a simple, inexpensive, but good option, one of the best models for occasional home use.

At first glance, this model is not much different even from cheaper soldering stations. But it is made with high quality, is reliable, and, subject to operating conditions, will last a long time. Despite the simplicity of the device, analogue temperature control from 200 to 480 degrees, it is suitable not only for home use, but also for professional purposes. The advantages of the device are excellent quality, fast heating of the tip, convenient smooth temperature control.

The soldering station is compact, lightweight, but at the same time stable due to its wide base. The tip heats up almost instantly, and the user can set the exact temperature. The cord is long and does not create any inconvenience during operation. The quality of materials and workmanship is truly excellent, as confirmed by user reviews. There are no serious complaints about the model, so it can be called one of the best in terms of price and quality ratio.

The Zubr soldering station is compact, functional and has a high heating rate. It is suitable not only for personal use, but also for professional purposes, as it has a wide range of operating temperatures from 50 to 480 degrees, digital adjustment with step accuracy of up to 1 degree.

The ceramic cone-shaped tip heats up quickly and has antistatic protection for safer and more efficient work with electronic components. The power of 60 W is enough for any small work. The current temperature is displayed on the LCD display, and simple controls contribute to maximum convenient operation. The soldering station is well made, convenient and efficient to use.

In everyday life, LUKEY soldering stations are in great demand. Many buyers consider them to be the highest quality and most reliable, and at the same time quite affordable. The devices of the Chinese brand really have good characteristics and perform well in operation.

Lightweight and convenient, the tool is great for soldering small objects, even when working under a microscope. Analogue temperature control from 200 to 480 degrees is simple and reliable.

And the safety of working with electronic parts sensitive to statistics is ensured by the antistatic design of the soldering iron.

The advantages of the model include a ceramic heating element, fast heating, a comfortable handle, and compactness. The device solders perfectly, users have no complaints. The tip may burn out after a while, but replacement ones are quite inexpensive.

Soldering stations with a hair dryer function are ideal for dismantling radio components. They usually contain both a regular soldering iron with a tip and a hot air gun, which makes them more versatile and functional. To regulate the flow of hot air, additional nozzles are often included in the kit. Digital models are considered the best, giving more opportunities for setting various settings.

5 MASTERS 998D

For the home, they usually try to choose budget models. Therefore, I am glad that among them there are quite decent options that are inexpensive and have good quality and functionality. In most respects, the MASTERS soldering station is not far behind more expensive models. High power of the hair dryer (700 W), the ability to smoothly adjust the temperature of the hair dryer and soldering iron, reliable ceramic tip, convenient stands, compact size of the device.

Indeed, at a low cost, this device in capable hands will be an excellent tool for performing even quite complex work. The package includes several different hair dryer attachments. There are no special complaints about the quality of workmanship, materials, assembly, or functionality.

For those who prefer digital models to analog temperature control, we can recommend the modern REXANT soldering station. This is a multifunctional device with LCD display, digital microcontroller temperature, providing accurate and stable heating level.

The device is equipped with a unique cooling system, which significantly increases its service life. The model is suitable even for complex work thanks to the presence of a compressor hair dryer and soldering iron, and a set of additional attachments.

The hair dryer has a brushless motor, which guarantees exceptionally quiet operation.

A convenient feature is the soldering iron sleep mode when there is no movement. I’m also pleased that all cords can be disconnected; they are long enough and soft – making it comfortable to work with. A small minus is that the tip seems too thin to some users, they recommend immediately purchasing additional ones.

The high-quality radio installation tool of the Russian brand is compact, of decent quality and easy to use. The small device meets all safety requirements, consumes a minimum of electricity, but at the same time heats up quickly and performs its function properly. Among the advantages are convenient temperature control of both the soldering iron and hair dryer, and protection against static voltage.

An interesting feature is the energy saving function. It lies in the fact that when you install the soldering iron in the holder, it automatically goes into standby mode. The kit includes several attachments for a hot air gun. This soldering station is suitable for solving everyday problems of any complexity. Reviews about it are very good - good quality of materials and workmanship, comfortable soldering iron handle.

One of the best models for both professionals and experienced amateurs who plan to purchase a high-quality and functional soldering station, but are not ready to spend too much money on its purchase. This device has everything - a powerful hair dryer with a set of nozzles, adjustable temperature, a soldering iron with a thin tip for particularly small work. The controls are analogue, but they are designed for smooth adjustment, so the temperature can be adjusted quite accurately.

Overall, this is a good and reliable soldering station with a hair dryer function for little money. It is suitable for most jobs, quite powerful and convenient. There are some minor shortcomings, but they are compensated by the low cost of the device. For example, the system for attaching hair dryer attachments is not the most thoughtful. In general, users are quite satisfied with the model.

The most powerful, functional and well-made soldering station. It provides everything for convenient and high-quality work. This is a hair dryer with a temperature range from 100 to 480 degrees, a soldering iron with an adjustable temperature from 200 to 480 degrees, and a board preheating station. Digital indication of the actual hot air temperature allows you to eliminate serious errors and work with any materials without fear.

The device is well made; some users consider it the best not only in terms of power, but also ease of use. Reliable stands are provided for the soldering iron and hair dryer; the set includes four nozzles of different diameters for adjusting the air flow. This station is used primarily for work at home, but can also be used for professional purposes.

THIS IS INTERESTING:  How to properly connect a welding machine

Attention! The information presented above is not a purchasing guide. For any advice you should contact specialists!

Source: http://markakachestva.ru/rating-of/4418-luchshie-pajalnye-stancii.html

How to fix a soldering iron at home

How to restore a soldering iron

Have you purchased a soldering iron, but are not satisfied with the quality of its work? Then you will find in this article material on how to repair a soldering iron if you do not want to take it to a workshop, but decide to do it yourself. The video tutorial presented is about a cheap Chinese device in which some parts need to be replaced.

Unusual soldering irons are sold cheaply in a Chinese online store.

What you need to remake a soldering iron

– soldering iron; – thick copper wire; – screwdriver; - drill; - the wire; – wire cutters; – electrical tape; - fork; - flux; – tin;

- metal sponge.

Refinement of the Chinese soldering iron

The first thing we will pay attention to is the ineffective soldering iron tip; we will replace it with a copper wire of the required diameter. Let's take out the old tip and make it out of copper to the same size (thickness and length).

To refine the working end of the sting, the author of the video used a drill. It is enough to have a good file and all work with the tip of the tip will be done just as well.

Next, we’ll replace the worthless Chinese cord with a high-quality one. You should not take risks with a fairly energy-intensive tool, like a soldering iron, to avoid overheating of the wire and insulation.

All that remains is to tin the tip and you can solder with the normal soldering apparatus you have modified.

Notes

Another disease of Chinese soldering irons is severe overheating during operation. It can be eliminated by inserting into the gap one of the wires a diode with an operating voltage of at least 300 volts (it can be mounted in a power plug; the polarity of the connection does not matter). In order for the soldering iron tip to burn less, before work it must be forged in a cold state with a small hammer; in this case, the copper becomes denser and does not burn so quickly.

Many people are guilty of fetishism. Everyone has their own object of adoration. I would venture to guess that for radio amateurs this is most often a soldering iron. So I had one like that until I decided to make an improvement - I put a diode in the break in the wire and a toggle switch to it. Well, everyone knows this rationalization and has been for a long time. Convenient, liked it. But the soldering iron burned out. In just a month. It's clear that it's a coincidence. I repaired it - I fastened (crimped) the ends at the burnout site with a piece of copper plate.

And a month later again. The second plate did not fit in the heating element. A year has passed.

And so, removing a switching power supply from the board of an imported TV, I figured out how to give a second life to a faithful partner - if there is not a sufficient length of whole nichrome wire (and where can I get it with a diameter of 0.08 mm?) to wind the heating element at a voltage of 220V, then this can be made for a lower voltage, for example 110V, from available “scraps” (after all, less nichrome is needed).

Read also: How to connect a power plant to your home

To begin with, I made measurements and calculations. I measured the resistance of an existing whole piece of nichrome - 367 Ohms.

The output voltage of the power supply, took the value of 110V, divided by 367 Ohms and got the required current value - 0.3 A, multiplying it by 110V, I found out the estimated possible power of the soldering iron - 33W. Quite enough.

I placed the existing mandrel with a dielectric (mica) wound on top in the chuck of a hand drill, wound nichrome at one end to a conductor wire, and wound the other on an improvised bobbin, attaching clothespins for weight.

Next came the winding process. The number of attempts is not limited - until you succeed.

It's not ideal, though. The main thing here is that the turns do not touch each other. The second end of the nichrome to the second wire - the conductor. On top of the nichrome there is again a dielectric, of course you need mica, but there wasn’t any - in the photo there is an asbestos cord.

The conductors (wires) are bent in the desired direction, the farthest one is pressed against the asbestos. Contact between conductors and wires must be EXCLUDED. On top is again a dielectric - mica.

Then everything is simple: we pass the wire coming from the plug through the handle of the soldering iron and the casing, and connect its cores by twisting with the conductors in contact with the nichrome, having previously put on the last insulators that were on them before disassembly. We insert everything into the casing.

Handle casing. The tip is inside the heating element mandrel.

Now be sure to “ring” the pins of the power plug relative to the casing and soldering iron tip! THERE SHOULD BE NO CONTACT.

The “running” tests were successful. The fact that you shouldn’t plug this soldering iron into a 220-volt outlet is, of course, clear to everyone. And smooth temperature control, if necessary, is achieved according to this scheme. With best wishes, Babay. Russia, Barnaul.

The article details several ways to update the BIOS on an Asus motherboard.

Read also: Main types of turning tools

Now you can definitely choose the ideal laptop for work or study!

This article describes the benefits of SSD drives for applications and games. There is also a comparison between the advantages of this drive with its outdated counterpart.

The article talks about how to repair a plastic Chinese electric kettle.

Topic: what to do if a soldering iron burns out, how to restore it yourself

Sometimes the soldering iron that you use to solder various circuits, parts, and wires suddenly stops working, it doesn’t heat up. In most cases, it may be a simple break in the wire that powers the electric soldering iron itself. The most vulnerable point of the wire is the area where it is frequently bent.

For a soldering iron (and not only for it) this is the place where the wire enters the soldering iron itself. You just need to disassemble it and ring the wires coming from the plug. If the wire does not ring, then simply cut off a small piece (about 15 cm long) from the entrance to the soldering iron. Call again.

If there is still no contact, then cut the same piece from the plug side. Well, as a last resort, just install a new wire.

But not in all cases, the reason why an electric soldering iron does not work is a break in the wire powering it. Sometimes the heating element itself burns out inside the soldering iron. There are two ways to go here. You can try to rewind the heating coil yourself.

This is a fairly simple task if you have something to rewind and if the soldering iron was designed for a voltage no higher than 36 volts. For a soldering iron supply voltage of 220 volts, rewinding the spiral will be much more difficult.

A thin and long wire must be carefully wound (so that the turns do not have direct contact) around the base of the heater. For a beginner, this is difficult and time-consuming.

You can go another way. Repairing a burnt soldering iron involves replacing the entire heating element.

For example, when the problem of a burnt soldering iron affected me, I went to the Aliexpress website, typed in “soldering iron heater” into the search, and then chose the most suitable option (in terms of size, power and supply voltage I needed).

The cost of this heating element was quite low (when compared with buying a new electric soldering iron). Then I placed an order, paid, delivery took about 2 weeks.

Read also: Products using welding

Installing a new heating element on a burnt-out soldering iron was not difficult. It fit normally into the base of the soldering iron. Except that the old tip was slightly larger in size than the hole that was on the new heater.

I simply took a piece of copper wire of the required length and diameter. One end of it (the one that will be soldered) was ground off at an angle. The heating element is fixed with one short screw on one side of the base of the soldering iron.

The tip itself is fixed with another screw (slightly longer than the first) on the other side of the base.

The outgoing wires from the heating element were twisted with the wires of the power cord. Having previously put on them small pieces of polyvinyl chloride tube, which has heat-resistant properties.

These pieces of tubes act as electrical insulators, which prevent short circuits from occurring at the junction of the wires. Conventional insulation in the form of electrical tape or shrink heat tube will not work, since it will simply collapse when the soldering iron heats up.

You can also use fabric or fiberglass tape. That’s basically all the work involved in repairing a burnt-out soldering iron.

Source: https://morflot.su/kak-pochinit-pajalnik-v-domashnih-uslovijah/

Do-it-yourself soldering iron repair for polypropylene pipes

Nowadays, polymer channels are increasingly used when creating various pipelines. They have many advantages over their metal counterparts. Polymer pipes deserve special attention. The price per 1 meter of these structures is significantly lower than that of metal analogues. Their distinctive feature is convenient installation. Such pipe structures are soldered using a special soldering apparatus.

In this article we will analyze the structure of the mentioned device, list the most popular manufacturers of equipment and tell you how to fix the most typical breakdown yourself. You will also have the opportunity to watch photos and videos on the topic of this material.

Device structure

Most soldering machines have approximately the same design. The differences lie only in the shape and methods of installing special attachments.

Any soldering iron for polypropylene pipes consists of:

  • housings and handles;
  • thermostat;
  • heating element placed in a metal casing;
  • replaceable nozzles coated with Teflon.

In terms of their method of operation, the devices in question are much like a regular iron.

Some experts call these devices that way. The operation of the device is quite simple. The heating element increases the temperature of the stove inside which it is located. From it, heat is transferred to the nozzles. It is these heating elements that help soften the polymer to the desired consistency.

The thermostat allows you to control the heating process. This part is responsible for maintaining the required temperature conditions, preventing overheating of the installed nozzles. If the thermostat is faulty, it will be difficult to operate the device. Heating elements can become very hot. This will negatively affect the duration of their operation. The metal part of the stove will begin to melt over time. As a result, the device will become unsuitable for pipe soldering.

It is important to choose a soldering machine equipped with a high-quality thermostat. In cheap models, this element is unstable. This leads to uneven heating of polypropylene structures. The temperature level may be excessively high or, conversely, low.

Note that for experienced specialists such a defect is not critical. At the same time, beginners will be able to effectively complete the task only with the use of an absolutely working soldering iron. This is due to the fact that professionals intuitively work with the device, and thanks to their skills they will be able to minimize the consequences of using an unstable device.

Based on what was written above, a simple conclusion is drawn - it is better to use high-quality and reliable equipment than to tinker with a poorly functioning soldering iron. In this case, it is advisable to use equipment with a thermostat that allows smooth temperature control.

The soldering result also depends on the quality of the replacement tips. These elements directly affect the quality of the joint created. The key factor in choosing nozzles is the thickness of the Teflon coating.

Please note that most cheap models have a very thin layer. Therefore, it burns out quite quickly. This causes the polypropylene to stick to the nozzle. As a result, the working area of ​​the soldering element is reduced.

This leads to a deterioration in the quality of the formed joints.

Variety of models

There are two types of soldering machines on sale. The first type is equipped with a flat tip. In the second type of device, the soldering element is made in the shape of a cylinder. Each variety has its own characteristics. According to many experts, models with a cylinder-shaped sting are more convenient. Since the soldering element is compact in size, the device can be used even in small spaces.

Each type of device is equipped with its own type of replaceable attachments. For models with a flat tip, the nozzle is installed using a special bolt. The plate has several holes for connecting two or three nozzles.

For models with a cylindrical tip, the heating elements look like clamps. They crimp the cylinder and are secured with several bolts. The replaceable nozzles of the second type of device (unlike the first) do not scroll relative to their axis. This greatly simplifies the soldering process. Because there is no need to tighten the bolts.

You also need to pay attention to the configuration of the nozzles. Most often, a set contains at least three attachments. Some models are equipped with six replaceable heating elements to work with structures of different sections.

Today, the most popular manufacturers of soldering irons for polypropylene structures are the following brands:

  • Ermak;
  • Storm;
  • Quick;
  • Wavin ekoplastik;
  • Kraftool;
  • Lava;
  • Neo.

To choose a tool you need to know which one is better. To do this, just read consumer reviews. Note that it is better to spend a little more money and purchase a quality tool from a well-known brand than to purchase a cheap Chinese device.

Also pay attention to the power of the equipment. As a rule, for devices this figure can be from 800 to 1500 W. Such devices are used for soldering structures with cross-sectional sizes of 15, 20, 32 and 50 millimeters.

If we are talking about joining products with a diameter of up to 63 millimeters, it is better to use equipment with a power of 1700 watts or more. There are also models designed for soldering products with a cross-section of 75, 90 or 110 millimeters.

Typically, the equipment package includes a standard set of additional elements.

As a rule, the list contains:

  • replaceable nozzles;
  • bolts;
  • shipping container;
  • stand;
  • thermal gloves;
  • roulette;
  • level;
  • instructions.

Try to choose a tool that is as complete as possible with everything you need. This will allow you to save money and time. Equipment from well-known manufacturers in most cases comes with all the necessary additional elements. Often soldering irons can be equipped with scissors for cutting pipes.

Typical failure: the soldering machine does not heat up

Let's look at a real case of repair of the RSP-2a-Pm device from the Czech company Wavin ekoplastik. The problem was this: the device was heating up, but did not reach the required temperature. At the same time, during operation, the sound of sparking contacts arose inside the device. The device was used intensively for a year.

The repair of the device began with its disassembly. Next it was necessary to establish the cause of the malfunction. First the control board was checked. Next, the soldering iron was turned on and the voltage indicator at the output of the mentioned circuit was determined.

When performing the test, you do not need to wait until the tip is completely warmed up. A similar procedure would be appropriate when testing electronics. In our example, it was only necessary to determine the cause of the breakdown. After checking the board, it would be necessary to move on to diagnosing the heating element.

The soldering machine in question was switched on. The heating indicators lit up clearly. It was assumed that the problem lies in the heating element circuits. To accurately identify the breakdown, it was necessary to disassemble the protective grille of the heating element.

It was decided to check the thermostat screwed to the heater. The main purpose of this component is additional protection. The operation of the device was completely controlled electronically. The thermostat was installed in order to avoid uncontrollability of the heating element in case of damage to the thyristor.

If the maximum permissible temperature is reached, the bimetallic contacts of the safety device will open and the main heating component will stop operating. In a specific case, the mentioned elements burned. As a result, contact opening began to occur at temperatures below the limit. This was the main reason for the constant underheating of the device.

To eliminate this problem, it was possible to repair the thermostat. But this task is very complex and time-consuming. Replacing the element in question was not feasible due to the lack of spare parts.

As a result, the repairman decided to remove the thermostat from the circuit and connect it directly. To do this, the element was disconnected from the heating element contact. Then a new terminal, purchased in a store, was crimped onto another blue wire. To solve this problem, it is possible to use insulated terminals.

Try to use exclusively heat-resistant cambrics. They must withstand high temperatures.

THIS IS INTERESTING:  Where to repair a welding inverter

The terminals are crimped using special pliers. If worst comes to worst, you can also use pliers. The main thing is that the procedure is performed efficiently and reliably. After its implementation, the cable in the terminal must be motionless.

After completing the procedure for turning off the thermostat, it was necessary to assemble the device. During its implementation, damage to the wire clamp was discovered. To eliminate this damage, a regular plastic clamp was used. After fixing the cables, the excess parts of the plastic were cut off.

Next, the assembly of the device was completed. After this, the device was tested for serviceability. The soldering iron worked like clockwork again. You can use the information from this article when repairing various models of soldering irons.

Watch the video:

Source: https://trubtraid.ru/obsluzhivanie-trub/pajka-trub/remont-payalnika-dlya-polipropilenovyh-trub.html

How to recover deleted videos from Android phone

Smartphones store a large amount of user information. These are not only applications, but also personal photos, videos, and audio recordings. Unfortunately, the memory of even modern devices is sometimes not enough to store impressive amounts of data for a long time. Users have to delete unnecessary files, and most often the choice falls on video. After all, it is videos, clips and films that take up the most space on the drive.

To avoid deleting videos unless absolutely necessary, it is recommended to use MicroSD memory cards and cloud storage like Google Drive or Yandex. Disk. They will allow you to free up space on your phone without deleting files.

After deleting a video on a smartphone running the Android operating system, the need to restore the videos periodically arises. When the free space on a mobile device runs out, a person gets rid of large files without thinking about their value. This is how memorable videos and films disappear and then cannot be found.

Fortunately, there is a way to recover lost video files. But to return the videos, you need to meet 2 prerequisites:

  • was removed not long ago.
  • After deletion, a large number of files of a similar format were not recorded on the smartphone.

Compliance with these conditions most likely guarantees the user the ability to recover data. But why is this happening? Don't the videos disappear from the device after clicking the "Delete" button?

When an Android owner gets rid of a file, a small “imprint” of it remains in memory. Subsequently, it can be used to recover information. But you need to take into account the fact that after overwriting, another file appears in its place. Therefore, if you deleted a recording 2-3 months ago, and then again filmed a large number of videos, it is unlikely that you will be able to return the lost video.

Recovering erased video via Google Virtual Storage

The Android operating system is the brainchild of the American corporation Google. All mobile devices running on this OS have Google services pre-installed. Authorization allows smartphone owners to use the Google Play application store and other useful programs. But in a situation where a person wants to recover deleted videos, we will be interested in Google cloud storage.

Each user who purchases a smartphone on Android OS can log in to their Google account at any time so that all media files are automatically uploaded to the cloud. This feature allows you to forget about the possibility of accidental data loss. To activate this feature, you need:

  1. Open phone settings.
  2. Go to the “Accounts” tab.
  3. Click on “Google” or “Create an account” if one is not displayed in the list.
  4. Open the Google Photos app that comes pre-installed on your smartphone.
  5. In the program settings, activate the autoload function.

Now that all files stored in the device’s memory are synchronized with the Google Photos service, you don’t have to worry about data loss. You can restore the video through the same application, which will allow you to re-download the information to your smartphone. But, if a person has not previously set up synchronization, it will not be possible to return the video this way.

Google Photos makes it possible to view photos and videos on any device, be it a smartphone or a computer. Even if the files were downloaded via a mobile device, the user can open them at any time on a PC using the official website of the service.

How to recover deleted video on Android without a computer

Using the Google service to return lost files is a method that does not always help. The problem with using it is that the smartphone owner must set up synchronization in advance. If this was not done, you will have to turn to other recovery options. Moreover, not all require connection to a computer. You can return files using special applications, but first you need to get root rights.

Obtaining root rights

After deleting a video, a “snapshot” of it remains on the phone, which can be restored. But the operation cannot be performed without obtaining so-called root rights. This is a special mode that does not change the interface, but adds a lot of new features to users.

Usually, gadget-savvy people turn to him to repair mobile devices. But any owner of an Android smartphone also has the right to open access.

True, before obtaining root access, each person must take into account all the risks, namely, become familiar with the pros and cons of this mode.

Advantages Flaws
Full control over your smartphone, including changing factory settings Increased phone vulnerability
Ability to install third-party firmware if the device is not updated to the latest version of Android After receiving root rights, the device will not be accepted for warranty repairs.

Thus, opening root access is both a very useful and at the same time a risky process. But there is no other way to get out of the situation with deleted video files.

To obtain these rights, you need to download a special application. There are a huge number of similar programs on Google Play, but we strongly recommend turning to KingRoot for help. This utility is especially popular among owners of Android smartphones, and has also gained the favor of the public. After downloading the software, there are a few steps left to complete:

  1. Run the program.
  2. Click the “Try To Root” button.
  3. Reboot your smartphone.

After completing these steps, you will be able to change any parameters of your smartphone, including restoring videos using applications, which we will describe in detail below.

If you need to restore a video that was stored on a memory card, it is not necessary to obtain root rights. But some applications do not work without administrative access.

Using the Undeleter app

The name of this program speaks for itself. It is designed specifically for cases when the user needs to recover any information. You can download the application from Google Play, where it is provided absolutely free.

After downloading the software, you need to perform several steps to return the files:

  1. Open the program.
  2. Give permission to work with root rights.
  3. Select the drive to scan (internal memory or MicroSD card).
  4. Specify the file type (select all that belong to the “Video” section).
  5. Click the “Scan” button to start scanning.
  6. Wait for the process to complete and restore the suggested files by clicking on “Recover”.

The most time spent working with the Undeleter application is scanning the drive. Much depends on its capacity. The more internal memory is provided, the longer the operation takes. But after the scanning is completed, you can restore previously lost videos. The picture attached to each clip will help you understand which one you need. True, you cannot play the video itself before restoring it.

Using the GT Recovery application

Another program that is definitely worth considering. Like the previous application, it only works with root rights, but with a high degree of probability GT Recovery will be able to recover lost files. You can download the program via Google Play completely free of charge.

The further process of interaction with the application does not differ from the previously discussed Undeleter.

First, you log into the program, confirm the use of root access, start scanning, and then from the proposed files the user selects those that he wants to restore.

Trash Digger App

This program literally rummages through all the junk on your smartphone to later recover deleted videos. The principle of its operation is no different from the previously discussed applications. Before you start using Trash Digger, you are prompted to accept the license agreement. There is no need to be afraid of it, since the software is still provided for free.

After all formalities have been completed, you can proceed to returning your clips. To do this, you need to run a deep scan. It will detect the maximum possible number of files available for recovery.

The application also has a basic scanning mode. But it is only suitable for returning images.

Using the DiskDigger app

The simplest program on our list, since, unlike the previous ones, it does not require root rights. This means that the user will be able to restore files without any risks. But in this case, the productivity of scanning is seriously questioned. Still, without root, the program will not get into the most hidden corners of the smartphone.

The program is available on most devices running Android OS and can be downloaded for free via Google Play.

Next, you need to open the application and start scanning. Moreover, before starting the process, you cannot select the type of files to detect. Because of this, scanning may take 15-20 minutes.

After the process is completed, you can restore the proposed information. This includes photos, audio and video. Since we are interested in the latter type, we need to open the “Video” tab of the same name. It displays all the videos that can be returned.

Other video recovery programs

Of course, the applications presented above are not the only ones in their field. If you carefully study Google Play, you can find several dozen more similar programs. But we suggest focusing on the following:

  • SUPER BACKUP.

Source: https://tarifkin.ru/mobilnye-sovety/kak-vosstanovit-udalennye-video-na-androide

Principle of operation, main malfunctions and methods of repairing a soldering iron

> Tool > Operating principle, main malfunctions and methods of repairing a soldering iron

Soldering devices of various types are widely used at industrial facilities, in workshops for repairing radio equipment and household appliances, and in domestic conditions. Depending on the operating conditions and purpose, there are many types of soldering equipment.

Electric soldering iron with spiral heating

Applications and types

  1. The AC electric soldering iron with spiral heating of the core operates from a standard power supply network for household equipment at 220V 50-60Hz.
  2. A cordless electric soldering iron is used for desoldering wires and other small-sized elements where high power up to 15 W is not required;
  3. There are varieties of gas soldering irons that are used for strong heating of metal elements and refractory alloys;
  4. To work with low-melting tin during the installation and repair of radio equipment, pistol-type soldering irons with pulsed voltage supply are widely used.

    When you press the trigger, the tip of the soldering iron heats up; after soldering is completed, the trigger is released and the heating element cools down;

  5. Soldering irons with ceramic rods have a long service life and allow you to select the desired temperature mode and power consumption;

Soldering iron with ceramic tips on the rod

  1. Induction soldering irons are widely used. An inductive coil creates a magnetic field on the ferromagnetic tip, which heats the core. When the magnetic properties of the core are lost, heating stops; this is a significant drawback of such models.

An electric soldering iron is used as a hand tool. With its help, solder is melted to a liquid state, which fills the cracks and irregularities of heated metal elements at the joints, for which alloys of low-melting metals are used:

  • tin;
  • lead;
  • zinc;
  • nickel;
  • copper and others.

The melting temperature of solders must be less than the melting temperature of the metal elements being connected.

The industry produces different types of soldering irons. The most commonly used in industry and at the household level are spiral soldering irons, which are worth describing in more detail.

Soldering iron design and operating principle

One of the main elements of a soldering iron is a heating rod on which nichrome wire is wound in a spiral. In order to retain heat longer, the rod is inserted into a steel cylinder, which is insulated with heat-resistant fiberglass, mica or asbestos layer. A winding of nichrome wire is wound onto this dielectric layer. These measures eliminate short circuits between turns.

Blocking generator: operating principle

Depending on the power of the soldering iron, the winding can be multilayer: fiberglass - winding - fiberglass - continuation of the spiral.

The greater the power of the soldering iron, the more turns of the spiral, the thinner the diameter of the wire. For high thermal conductivity of the rod, red copper is used, thus achieving rapid heating and heat transfer to the soldering iron tip.

Schematic diagram of a spiral soldering iron

List of main elements:

  • plug and cord for connecting to the power supply;
  • holder;
  • wooden handle, can be made of heat-resistant plastic;
  • copper rod;
  • dielectric gaskets;
  • heating coil;
  • protective casing of the spiral with fixing rings.

The electrical circuit of the soldering iron is simple and consists of three elements:

  • power supply;
  • plug with wire;
  • wire heating coil.

Electrical circuit of a soldering iron

An electric current passing through a spiral of nichrome wire heats up the winding, and the heat is transferred to the core and soldering iron tip.

Malfunctions and their elimination

The most common fault with soldering irons of this model is an open circuit. If there is a break in a section of the electrical cord, repairing the soldering iron is simple - just replacing the cord or plug. In the event of a break in the nichrome winding, repairs are more complicated, but are possible with your own hands.

Nichrome winding of an electric soldering iron

To determine the break and repair the winding, the easiest way is to use a multimeter, taking into account the winding resistance, which depends on the power and is indicated on the soldering iron body or in the product data sheet.

It is necessary to move apart the fixing rings and remove the protective housing of the soldering iron winding. The protection casing comes in two versions. A metal tube, which fits onto a pin with a winding and rests against the handle, is secured on the tip side with a clamping ring. The second option is when the protective housing consists of two longitudinal halves of a tube with a decreasing diameter at the edges, where the two components are fixed with clamping rings.

When making repairs with their own hands, some amateur craftsmen, after removing the protective casing and the top layer of winding insulation, discover a break, do not bother themselves with the labor-intensive replacement of the wire of the entire winding.

Disconnect the end from the terminal on the power cord, and wind the wire from the outside of the winding until it breaks. Then they make a careful twist at the burnout site, wind the wire, connect it back to the power cord terminal, and attach the outer layer of insulation.

They put on a protective case, plug in the soldering iron and it works properly.

This DIY repair method is possible, but not recommended. The disadvantage of this method is that in the place of twisting the heating of the nichrome wire will be greater than in other parts of the chain. Ultimately, the operation of such a soldering iron will be short-lived. The winding will burn out in the same place. For reliable operation, you will have to rewind the entire coil.

If you need to achieve the same heating power, you need to wind a new coil with the same wire, with the same number of turns in each layer.

Different materials are used to insulate the winding layers:

  • asbestos gaskets;
  • heat-resistant fiberglass;
  • mica tubes or plates.

Asbestos is considered the most practical; the plate can be soaked with water, after which it becomes elastic and takes on any shape that you mold with your own hands. The first layer of spiral is wound onto the dried coating, then the second layer of asbestos and the continuation of the winding, until the end of the wire.

The number of turns in each layer and the thickness of the insulation should be approximately the same. This condition ensures uniform heating. The remaining ends of the winding are connected to the power cord.

Connecting the winding to the power cord

To repair the insulating layer of the winding, mica tubes and plates are used, which have high thermal conductivity and are a reliable dielectric. The disadvantage of this material is its fragility - it is difficult to install, sometimes mica crumbles right in your hands.

With mechanical impacts on the protective housing of the winding, the mica plates may collapse, which will lead to an interturn short circuit in the spiral.

The soldering iron tip is sharpened to a cone for convenient soldering of small elements. During operation, it requires periodic editing with a file.

Electric soldering iron tip shape

When winding a new coil at the calculated power, there is no absolute certainty that the rod will heat the elements that need to be soldered and the solder to a liquid state. It depends on the tip, the new one is larger, and with use it decreases. Solders also have different melting points.

All these factors influence the heating time and temperature to achieve the desired power consumption and temperature parameters. The soldering iron is turned on through a thyristor power regulator. This device allows you to automatically maintain the desired temperature of the rod.

Calculation of required parameters

In order to repair a failed soldering iron, you can change its parameters, taking into account the intended purpose, i.e. what do you use a soldering iron for (soldering a pan or a microcircuit). In this case, special tables are used, where the following values ​​are specified for selection:

  • soldering iron power consumption;
  • supply voltage;
  • resistance of nichrome wire.

Operating principle of a synchronous generator

The required coil resistance for various power and voltage values ​​is pre-calculated and tabulated.

Selecting the resistance of the spiral (nichrome wire) according to the power and voltage of the soldering iron Ohm

Power, wattsVoltage, Volts
12 24 36 127 220
12 12 48,0 108 1344 4033
24 6,0 24,0 54 672 2016
36 4,0 16,0 36 448 1344
42 3,4 13,7 31 384 1152
60 2,4 9,6 22 269 806
75 1,9 7,7 17 215 645
100 1,4 5,7 13 161 484

To rewind a soldering iron with a power of 36 W at a supply voltage of 220V, the table shows that the winding resistance should be 1344 Ohms. Next, you can take the existing wire, attach the Ohmmeter terminal to the end, move the second terminal along the unwound wire until it reads 1334 Ohm. At this mark, cut off the measured section and wind it onto the soldering iron coil.

 Resistance of a meter nichrome wire to its diameter

Diameter, mm1,00,90,80,70,60,50,40,30,20,10,080,07
Ohm/m 1,4 1,7 2,2 2,89 3,93 5,6 8,75 15,7 34,6 137 208 280

You can use the above table. Measure the diameter of the wire with a micrometer and use the table to determine the required length of wire in the coil. So, if the wire diameter is 0.08 mm, the resistance per meter will be 208 Ohms. The required resistance is 1334 Ohm / 208 Ohm = 6.4 m. This results in the length of the wire that should be wound on the coil.

The turns on the winding are laid closely, heating up red-hot, the scale of the nichrome coating forms an insulating interturn layer. When the length of the coil is not enough, an insulating layer, fiberglass, asbestos or mica is applied, and a second layer is wound. Almost every coil consists of several layers , it is very important that it is placed in a protective casing.

about repairs

Operating principle of an asynchronous motor

How to repair a soldering iron and rewind it to 12 Volts is described in the video below.

From the above information it follows that having certain skills, tools, materials and knowledge in electrical engineering, repairing a soldering iron with your own hands is not a big problem.

Source: https://jelectro.ru/instrument/princip-remonta-payalnika.html

How to repair an electric soldering iron - Welding Profi

If you, a fellow hobbyist, have already “outgrown” a soldering iron with a voltage regulator, but have not yet “grown up” in your ambitions to a professional soldering station, then this might be interesting.

The ability to change the supply voltage of a soldering iron designed for 220 V, among other things, allows you to return to operation an already burnt-out one.

And use it in the future, for example, with a switching power supply from an imported TV, which at the output gives exactly half of the network one.

Bringing these two products together results in an intermediate option between a soldering iron with a regulator and a full-fledged soldering station. Any radio amateur can do this. I’ll show you how to do this using the example of changing the supply voltage of a Chinese-made soldering iron, which was not trustworthy for use without modification.

Disassembling the soldering iron

To disassemble the soldering iron, it was necessary to completely unscrew two screws connecting the protective casing to the heating element and holding the tip, and three self-tapping screws securing the working part to the handle. Remove the insulation from the wires and unscrew the connecting twists.

Mica with soldering iron spiral

There is a heating element inside the protective casing. That's what they have to do. It is necessary to change the amount of wound nichrome wire - change the resistance of the heating element.

Now it is 1800 Ohms, 400 Ohms are needed.

Why exactly so much? Currently working with a UPS, the soldering iron has a resistance of 347 Ohms, its power is from 19 to 28 W, there is a desire to make the second one less powerful, so I added Ohms.

Soldering iron rewind

Winding a soldering iron tip

The tip is reinserted into the heater, clamped with screws and into the drill chuck. If you disassemble and unwind excess nichrome while holding the heating element in your hands, then everything will be much more complicated. The tie wire is removed.

The released fiberglass and mica wrappers are removed. In the mica on the side of the tip, there is a slot into which a conductor is inserted, going from the nichrome to the network wire - therefore, the weakened mica wrapper is removed from it rather than unwinding. Mica is a very fragile material. The end of the nichrome wire wound to the conductor is disconnected. Its thickness is just over 4 microns.

Nichrome must be wound onto something round; the ideal option is a spool of thread. He unscrewed it, rewinded it, and so on until the end. There is no need to disconnect the second end of the nichrome wire.

Soldering iron wire resistance

Now you need to wind a length of 400 Ohms, and in centimeters it will be approximately 70 (the total length of nichrome wire 300 cm is 1800 Ohms, hence 400 Ohms will be 66.66 cm).

At a length of 70 cm, a latch (clothespin) is placed and in the hanging position of the coil, slightly guiding with your fingers, winding is carried out at intervals ensuring its termination at the first conductor.

The number of attempts is not limited, the main thing is not to tear the nichrome. At the end of winding, a control resistance measurement is required.

As soon as we manage to wind the required amount of nichrome, we cut the wire with an allowance of 1 - 2 cm and wind it to the conductor. We put on the mica winding, passing the conductor into the slot in it and press it against it (naturally on top of it).

We install a fiberglass winding on top and, compacting it by pressing, wind the binding wire. A heating element designed for power supply voltage of 85 – 106 V is assembled.

Soldering iron assembly

Since the working part was previously attached to the handle with incomprehensibly clumsy and short screws, they had to be replaced. To do this, holes for new screws were deepened in the attachment points on the handle.

Before connecting the power cable with the conductors going to the nichrome heater, a plastic clamp was installed and adjusted on it.

The casing of the heating element ends with a kind of cooling radiator, through holes in it and is attached to the handle. To increase the cooling effect, the gap between it and the handle was increased using metal washers.

Tests

Soldering iron current consumption 190 mA

The UPS with which the soldering iron will work at the output under load gives from 85 to 106 V. Current consumption is 190 mA, this is at the minimum voltage. Power 16 W.

Soldering iron current consumption 240 mA

At maximum voltage, current consumption is 260 mA. Power 26 W. The desired has been received.

Heating rate

Finally, a test for heating duration. Up to 257 degrees in 2 minutes 20 seconds. An excellent result, if you take into account that from a 225 V network it heated up to 250 degrees in 5 and a half minutes.

Table. Dependence of the resistance of the heating element on the power and voltage of the soldering iron

   Electronics repair

Source: https://fgpip.ru/svarka/kak-otremontirovat-elektropayalnik.html

How to repair a soldering iron with your own hands - Metals, equipment, instructions

An electric soldering iron is a hand-held heating device for fixing metal parts using solder - an alloy heated to a liquid state and having a melting point lower than that of the workpieces being fastened.

Design

The operation of electric soldering irons requires knowledge of their designs in order to quickly identify damage and repair the device at any unexpected moment. It consists of:

  • a copper rod wrapped in insulating material and placed in a steel tube;
  • heater;
  • tips for directly connecting metal parts with solder;
  • handle holder;
  • cord with plug.

The copper rod is an effective conductor of heat from the heater (nichrome spiral) to the tip. The spiral is wound onto a steel tube, which is wrapped in mica or fiberglass. Next, the nichrome winding is covered with an insulator (preferably asbestos), which prevents heat loss and short circuits.

Nichrome heating spiral

To reduce heating in the area of ​​connection with the conductors of the power cord, the ends of the spiral are bent in half, and the contact point is supplemented with a crimping aluminum plate. Electrical insulation is ensured by insulating tubes placed at the twisting point.

The rod and heater are placed in the body of the soldering iron, onto which a wooden or thermoplastic handle with an internal channel for the power cord is attached.

Operation

The operating principle of a soldering tool is based on the conversion of electrical energy into thermal energy, which heats the tip through heating the coil and rod. The temperature in the soldering zone reaches 400-4500C. The resulting viscous-liquid mixture penetrates into cavities and irregularities between parts. After cooling, the metals will be securely connected.

Additional Information. The electrical circuit usually contains an AC to DC converter.

Power

The operating power of the soldering iron is selected from 12 to 3000 W and determines its technical capabilities. Soldering of small parts is performed with a 12 W device. This condition must be met, since a powerful soldering iron, due to the size of the tip, will not be able to reach the contact points of tiny radio elements. In addition, the high power of the device causes unacceptable overheating of the circuit parts.

For powerful radio components, thick wires and small elements, 40 and 60 W soldering irons are required. If work is performed on large equipment, then the soldering tool is selected for 100 W or higher. If the power of the device is insufficient, the soldering will be weak and have a large number of voids.

Voltage

To comply with safety precautions, the soldering iron is selected according to the mains voltage from 12 to 220 V (5 values ​​in total). Thus, work in passenger vehicles can be carried out with a soldering tool at 12 V, in trucks - 24, in air - 27, in a damp room with mandatory grounding of electrical equipment - 36 V.

It is not easy to convert a 12 V tool to 220 V - you will have to wind a thin spiral with a large number of layers, which creates certain inconveniences when working with small parts.

Note! If the power of the network and the soldering iron match, you can work from alternating and direct voltage. This possibility is due to the nichrome material of the heater.

Basically, the voltage in soldering tools is 220 V. To prevent electric shock in high humidity or dusty areas, use a tool voltage of no more than 42 V.

Kinds

The most popular types of soldering irons can be classified into two categories: heating features and design types.

According to the heating principle, soldering devices are distinguished:

  • nichrome;
  • ceramic;
  • induction;
  • pulsed.

Nichrome

The most common soldering iron device is with a spiral heater made of nichrome, through which direct mains current or alternating current from the mains and transformer can pass. This tool is affordable and shock-resistant. Suitable for infrequent use.

Ceramic

In this type of soldering iron, the heater is a ceramic rod through which thermal energy from the live contacts passes. Among the advantages noted: long service life with proper operation, fairly fast heating, the presence of a temperature and power control system, compactness.

Disadvantages include: fragility of the ceramic rod, use of only the original tip, high cost, risk of purchasing a nichrome fake.

Induction

The inductor coil, as the main working part of the soldering iron, creates a magnetic field and heats the core. Heat is transferred to the tip, which is maintained at a temperature thanks to the ferromagnetic coating.

Each metal and part requires its own heating, so the tip must be selected individually.

Pulse

The circuit of a pulse soldering iron contains: a frequency converter, a high-frequency transformer and a tip. An electrical impulse occurs with increasing frequency of the mains voltage, which after a short time decreases to the required value.

The tip is connected using clamps (current collectors) to the secondary transformer winding. Thanks to this, when you press and hold the start button, the end part of the tool instantly warms up.

Soldering irons of this type are designed for short-term soldering of parts of various sizes.

According to design differences, soldering devices are divided into:

  • rod - the handle-holder turns into a straight rod with a sting;
  • pistol type - the handle and the metal part are perpendicular to each other;
  • soldering stations are complex devices with a built-in electronic control unit; according to operating technology, they are divided into infrared, hot-air, and digital.

There are models of soldering irons for children's technical modeling - low-power ones with a wooden handle. Compact USB devices operate from a car cigarette lighter, and hammer soldering irons are equipped with a thick tip for large parts. Cordless and gas tools are self-contained devices and are powered by a battery and a gas cartridge, respectively.

Soldering tools can have tips of various configurations (wedge-shaped, cone-shaped, chamfered, needle-shaped), made of copper or additionally nickel-plated. The handle is made of material with low thermal conductivity: wood, ebonite, textolite.

Note! Before work, you must familiarize yourself with the rules for operating and repairing the soldering iron.

terms of Use

Soldering iron repair is unlikely to be required if you follow the necessary operating rules:

  • ensure safety precautions at the workplace in accordance with the product instructions;
  • take into account the value of the mains voltage;
  • in rooms with high humidity, use a 36 V device (no more), first grounding it;
  • The heater and cord must be free from mechanical loads during operation;
  • do not touch the cord with a hot tip;
  • do not overheat the soldering iron coil;
  • select the heating mode using the power regulator.

Important! Correct selection of power parameters does not guarantee the quality of soldering.

Causes of damage

The most common reasons for soldering tool failure are:

  • damage to the plug or cord;
  • network failure;
  • violation of work contacts;
  • heater failure.

How to repair

To prevent sudden damage to the instrument from causing inconvenience, every specialist or radio amateur must confidently wield a soldering iron and be able to repair it, especially since it is not difficult. It is necessary to have a conventional ampere-voltmeter that diagnoses the type of malfunction.

Replacing the heater with a new one

If the heating element loses its functionality, do the following:

  • determine the winding resistance based on the power of the device and the network voltage;
  • select the diameter of the nichrome wire according to the resistance of 1 meter;
  • wind the spiral, laying the turns without gaps, placing a layer of mica between the rows;
  • in order to retain heat and prevent short circuits, the winding is covered with fiberglass, instead of which mica or asbestos can be used; the latter has the advantage of creating the required shape and acquiring strength after drying.

Note! After applying the asbestos insulating layer, you need to wait for it to dry and only then turn on the device to the network.

Replacing the heater with a resistor

Instead of a heating element, you can successfully use a PEV-10 resistor. To repair a soldering iron with your own hands, you will need pliers, a well-sharpened knife, and asbestos thread. To replace the heater, you must:

  • disassemble the soldering tool;
  • remove the used heater;
  • place the resistor in the vacant space;
  • remove 1.5 cm of insulating coating from the power cord, connect the power wires to the resistor through the holder channel; make sure that the laid wires do not touch the housing; insulate the terminals with asbestos thread;
  • assemble the tool and make sure it works.

If the power cord is damaged, it should be replaced. A faulty power cord plug must also be replaced. In this case, the broken fork (usually a solid one) is cut off and a collapsible one is installed instead.

Broken contact of the heater with the power cord can be easily eliminated. To do this, you need to disassemble the soldering iron and restore the connection of the contacts.

If you work with the soldering iron carefully, it will not require repair for a long time. If damage does occur, it is quite simple to fix it: you need to know the circuit diagram of the device (it is elementary), the basic rules of electrical engineering and safety.

Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/kak-otremontirovat-payalnik-svoimi-rukami/

Did you like the article? Share with friends:
Metals and their processing
-- Sideb lion (lipk) -->
How to sharpen a meat grinder knife

Close
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]