How to make your own lead sinker

How to cast a lead sinker

How to make your own lead sinker

Do-it-yourself fishing sinkers are created from lead using casting; for this you do not need to have blacksmithing skills or spend a lot of money. All you need for the job are materials for casting molds and lead. The main thing is to follow safety precautions when casting; you need to protect your respiratory tract, because lead is not excreted from the body and has a detrimental effect on humans.

Disposable weight form

To make a primitive disposable form, we will need thick paper, cardboard, any utensils and sand will do.

Step-by-step production:

  • roll the prepared paper into a cone and cut off the sharp end, thread wire or rings into the hole for fastening;
  • Place a paper bag in the center of the dish and fill it with sand around it.

Molten lead is poured into the resulting mold. When casting fishing weights, the paper will burn, but by this time the lead will have already hardened. The resulting result remains to be cleaned, after which the sinker can be used immediately.

Reusable form for sinkers

Making sinkers at home does not require much effort, but not everyone can afford a metal mold for casting, so we will use sealant.

This option is good because the sealant mold is made quite easily and quickly and allows you to cast many different sinkers for fishing:

  1. We fill the box with sealant, while trying to prevent the formation of bubbles.
  2. Before immersing in the box, the sinker must be treated with wax.
  3. Using a wire, lower the sinker into the solution without touching the walls. You need to wait for the sealant to completely harden without removing the weight.
  4. After the solution has completely hardened, you need to cut a hole and remove the weight. The form is ready, you can start making new weights.
  5. Pour molten lead into the resulting mold. When using pure lead, a sealant mold can withstand about 10 castings; using a printing alloy will increase the service life of the mold several times.

“I cast the sinkers from a printing alloy, it has a melting point of about 100 degrees - this is significantly lower than ordinary lead. In addition to the main hole in the sealant, I made one small hole for air, this improved the quality of production,” writes an experienced person who makes fishing sinkers with his own hands.

Plaster molds for weights

There are no difficulties in making such forms and castings of sinkers. Everyone has the materials needed for this in their home, and if they are not available, they can be purchased at any time at affordable prices and made into fishing weights.

Let's start making molds and casting weights:

  1. Diluted gypsum powder is poured into the square formwork.
  2. The sinker blank, attached to a wire, is installed in the center of the container in the not yet hardened plaster. We make holes in different parts of the workpiece.
  3. Before pouring the top layer, be sure to coat the bottom layer with the sinker with liquid soap - this will prevent the workpieces from sticking together.
  4. After applying the top layer, lightly tap the workpiece to distribute the solution evenly.
  5. The gypsum has frozen, you can disassemble the formwork and open the workpiece.
  6. Make holes in the upper part: one for sinker castings, the other for oxygen supply. The workpiece is ready for use.
  7. Next, we proceed similarly to the options described above: insert the wire into the workpiece and pour molten lead into the hole made.

Before fishing using the resulting sinkers, it is necessary to finalize them, make line clamps, drill holes and clean the connecting points. After processing, you will have excellent sinkers in your hands that you can take fishing.

By casting lead weights, you will not waste your money on tackle that you can make yourself. After the first work, the question of how to make a sinker for fishing will be resolved independently.

Source: https://orybalke.com/samodelki/gruzila-rybalki-svoimi-rukami.html

How to make weights for fishing? — Fishing selections

How to make your own lead sinker

Like different types of baits, sinkers of a certain weight and shape can also be made at home. Of course, not all fishermen are mechanics or millers, and not everyone has the opportunity to make metal forms, so plaster or sealant can be used as the mold material. Or contact a familiar craftsman at a local factory for a metal mold.

If the transaction is successful, within a day or two you will receive the necessary molds for casting. But first you need to take care of determining the exact diameter of the future spherical weights and inform the master about it in order to ultimately get weights of the required weight.

If you are not good at mathematical calculations, you can find tables online showing the correspondence between the diameter and weight of a lead ball. It is also worth remembering that balls made of lead and, for example, Wood's alloy with the same dimensions will have different weights, since lead has a higher density.

Form for sealant weights

You can make a mold for making sinkers or spinning baits yourself without much difficulty, using plaster or silicone sealant, as well as a ready-made sample.

For example, it is easy and also very unusual to make a mold from a sealant like “Hermesil” and the like.

The main factor when choosing a sealant is its ability not to change physical properties when exposed to high temperatures.

The upper permissible temperature limits for most common sealants range from 150 to 180°C.

In this regard, the use of pure lead for casting sinkers is not very appropriate, since its melting point reaches 350°C. But you can take some alloys, namely printing alloy, Wood or Rose alloys. Their melting point ranges from 60-110°, and therefore, when using such alloys, the silicone mold will serve you for a long time and the sinker castings will be of high quality.

If lead is used as the material for the sinkers, the manufactured casting mold will withstand approximately 8-10 castings. It is also worth noting that each time the lead sinker will move further and further away from the original ideal due to the gradual burnout of the mold and sealant.

Silicone sealant can be purchased at specialized stores selling building materials or at auto stores.

Although such a mold for casting at first glance may seem completely unreliable, in fact it can withstand quite high temperatures, and thanks to its properties it will allow you to make a sinker or bait of almost any shape.

Making a mold for casting weights

Making a mold is not that difficult. First, we take a small box and completely fill it with high-quality sealant. When filling, be careful not to form bubbles.

Next, the original weight needs to be lubricated with a solution of wax or paraffin in gasoline. After drying, the sinker on a thin wire is completely lowered into the sealant, but it should not touch the walls of the box itself.

The weight sample should remain in this position until the sealant hardens. Due to the characteristics of the sealant, this process can last a couple of days or drag on for 5-6 days. Do not remove the weight until complete polymerization.

After the substance has hardened, we cut a small hole through which we extract a sample of the sinker. The elastic form is ready, which means you can try to make your own weight from lead or its alloy.

The metal is poured through the same hole that you made earlier to remove the original sample weight. Thanks to its unique physical properties, the silicone mold allows you to easily remove homemade sinkers or baits, after which it returns to its original form and is ready for use again.

Aluminum mold for casting weights (video)

Ivanov Vitaly Leonidovich, 2019.

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DIY sinkers

How to make your own lead sinker

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Making homemade weights is not only useful, but also a very simple procedure. Weights are needed mainly by bottom fishers and spinning fishermen for rigs with retractable mounting. Even a novice angler can master this technique. The main thing is to have lead, create a fire source and find suitable utensils. In this article we will learn how to make fishing sinkers, where to get lead and what fire sources are best.

Where can I get lead?

Do-it-yourself fishing sinkers are poured from any lead that you have on hand. The easiest way to obtain lead is to go to a tire shop and buy used balance weights. Such lead will cost much less than if you buy sheet lead.

You can buy the required number of kilograms and get a large number of weights from them for various purposes. The only thing to consider is the steel pieces molded into the middle of some of the weights. It is advisable to remove them during melting. But you usually don’t come across many such sinkers.

The weights can be melted all together without sorting them by density.

The second way to extract lead is from old batteries. It is better to find points where they accept old batteries and buy them at a reasonable price. This is a more complicated method, since you will have to disassemble the batteries to remove the lead.

The third way to get lead out of cable braids. It is made of sheet lead with a thickness of 1, 1.5 and 2 mm. If you know any electricians, ask if they can get this braid. From such lead you can not only cast weights, but also cut strips for feeder feeders.

The most expensive way is to buy lead. It is sold in sheets and ingots. Better, of course, is sheet metal, but its size is very large. In such cases, fishermen unite and buy one sheet together.

You can also make weights with your own hands from old weights, which almost every angler probably has.

One thing is certain: absolutely any lead is suitable for casting sinkers with your own hands. It doesn't matter if it has impurities, or how dense or soft it is. Our task is weights for bottom fishing.

We pour out a sinker for a donkey with a rubber shock absorber

Let's first look at how to make fishing weights for elastic bands. We will perform this procedure outside. We will need a fire or a gas burner with a spray can. In the first case, it takes more time to melt lead, but there is no need for equipment or extra costs.

Melting lead with a gas torch takes just a few minutes, but requires a can of gas.

We also need a tablespoon, a lead tin and a little patience. We will dump the load in the ground. We find a damp piece of land and press a hole with a spoon to make a boat like this. Next, take a stick and insert it into one of the ends of the resulting form. Then we wait for the lead to melt.

After it becomes liquid, pour it into the resulting recess. We wait until it cools down a little, after which we take out the stick. The result will be a load weighing about 300-350 grams. It will lie well on the bottom and is easy to cast over long distances. We inserted a stick to create a hole in the weight.

You can pour several pieces at once if you can get a fire source with a high temperature.

Many fishermen ask the question: “How to make fishing sinkers for elastic bands of light weight, so that they stick well to the bottom and are not carried away by the current. Making such weights is quite simple. You need to take 3-4 pieces of wire 10 cm long and bend them into staples. Then place it in the recess. After pouring you will get a spider like this. After casting, the weight will lie in one place, and these pieces of wire will hold it. The weight of the cargo in this case may not exceed 150 grams.

Pour out the cone weights

Donkers and spinning fishermen often use hand-made conical weights. The former are used because they fly far and accurately, while spinners use them in spaced rigs. Making these weights yourself is very easy. You don't even need forms. We will need hard paper, with which we will make cones in the form of small bags.

We also need thin and stiff wire. From it we will make eyelets through which the weights will be attached to the main fishing line.

We will pour the sinkers with our own hands in exactly the same way as last time. Instead of a gas burner, you can use a portable one with two burners. It will be possible to pour in two containers to make the process faster. In this case, place the jars on the stove at intervals of 5 minutes. The lead has melted in one, pour it straight into the molds. After this operation, the lead should melt in the second container.

We insert wire staples into the paper molds so that the eye sticks out from the top of the cone. We immerse the molds in the ground so that they take a vertical position. We select the size of the molds experimentally. We estimate by eye what kind of weight we need.

As a standard, you can take a 35 gram weight and look at it. It will be enough to pour out the first batch of sinkers for fishing with your own hands. We will use the resulting weights as samples when we make molds for the next batches.

The pouring process is identical to the previous one. You can use an unnecessary metal mug as a container for lead. It is convenient to take it by the handle and pour lead from it. To avoid burning your fingers, it is better to wear gloves on your palms. After pouring, you should wait a little and remove the weights from the molds. We just tear off the paper without sparing, since initially the molds are disposable.

Pour out flat sinkers for donks

In bottom fishing, flat weights are often used. As a rule, they have an oval shape. Such sinkers lie well on the bottom even when fishing in strong currents. How to make such sinkers for fishing? To do this, cut out an oval piece 4 cm long and 2 cm wide from elastic 3 mm thick. You can also make heavier weights. For this we will use larger workpieces

Next, we make 7-8 dents in the ground, as in the previous case, when we poured out a large sinker for the elastic band. We will be making two types of weights. One type is sliding, and the second is with an eye. To pour the sliding weights, cut thin wire into pieces that are 1 cm longer than the length of the recesses. Insert the wire into these recesses.

To obtain weights with eyes, we will do exactly the same as when pouring cone weights. Only the ear this time will peek out from the recess. If necessary, you can drill holes on the edge of the sinkers

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Carefully pour the molten lead into containers and wait about 5 minutes. After this, you can carefully collect them with a spoon.

Pour fishing weights into molds

To obtain calibrated weights of various shapes and weights, metal molds of various types are used.

Let's look at how to cast weights in a metal mold of this type:

The form consists of two halves. After pouring, you should get sinkers weighing 130 grams with swivels.

In addition to lead, we will need two clamps for clamping forms, swivels and files with cutters for removing roughness from the resulting weights. Before casting the weights, lubricate all molds with machine lubricant so that the weights can be easily removed after pouring.

First, we insert the swivels into the four sinker molds.

Then we press the halves together with clamps.

Next, set to heat the lead in a suitable container. This mold has large enough sprues, so there won't be any problems with casting. That part of the lead that remains near the sprues is collected and used in the next pour.

Place the mold on a flat surface. When the lead melts, we begin to pour:

We clamp the container in which the lead is melted with pliers, and begin to carefully pour the lead into the holes.

After pouring, wait a few minutes and disassemble the mold. The result should be ribbed weights like this:

It needs to be slightly processed with a file. Remove the section from the sprue side. Large growths can be bitten off with nippers, after which the area can be treated with a file. As a result, you can make a very large number of sinkers.

They can be used in feeder fishing to break through the bottom. Such heavy sinkers are useful for bottom fishers when fishing in strong currents. They fly far and hold the bottom well.

conclusions

We looked at the simplest ways to cast sinkers. You can make weights even if you don't have molds. If you have metal molds, you can cast weights to order, making money on it. The main thing in this process is to find lead and a well-ventilated place. Remember that casting lead indoors is harmful.

There are also ways to cast weights in plaster and wooden forms. But for this you also need to make forms, which only complicates the task. And the period of their use is not very long. It is important to understand that weights are consumables. Therefore, you should not spend a lot of time on this process, trying to get products of perfectly correct shapes.

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Source: https://ribalka-vsem.ru/index/gruzila_svoimi_rukami/0-938

Casting sinkers at home - Metals, equipment, instructions

Today I will tell you how to make fishing weights with your own hands from lead, and not waste money. Any jig spinner should ideally have a gentleman's set in order to feel confident on any body of water, even in the most unexpected fishing conditions.

This set of weights requires the presence of a large number of weights, ranging from 1.5 g to 35 g, and sometimes more, with an interval of 2-4 g.

For example, when we go jig fishing , we always take with us a set of ordinary eared fish weighing, respectively, 1.5 g, 4 g, 6 g, 9 g, 12 g, 15 g, 18 g, 20 g, 22 g, 25 g, 28 g, 32 g, 35 g.

Of course, such a large amount of shot and buckshot is quite burdensome to carry around all day, especially since the load of each weight must be backed up in case of snags. But this, in a sense, store assortment allows us to select bait for absolutely any fishing conditions.

Unfortunately, the fishing industry lags far behind the potential needs of the market, and you will not find such a selection, especially eared fish, anywhere.

The way out of this current situation is quite simple - you need to cast and make weights for fishing yourself.

This kills two birds with one stone - on the one hand, you save time by not running around stores looking for the weight you need, and on the other hand, you stop being afraid of losing them on cliffs.

How to make a lead weight

How to make weights for fishing with your own hands from lead, because according to statistics, out of 100 fishermen, only 1 is a jack of all trades or a high-class mechanic who is able to make molds for casting on his own.

We should not forget that in our country the hardest currency, oddly enough, is liquid, and if you are able to explain to a mechanic, who is easy to meet at the entrance of any factory, what you need and what he needs, then this problem is completely solved in just a few days.

The only thing is that in order to obtain forms for each weight, it is necessary to inform the mechanic of the exact diameters of the future ears. For convenience, we provide below a table of correspondence between diameters and weights in the shape of a ball.

This table is compiled specifically for lead, taking into account its density, so if you want to cast, for example, a Wood or Rose alloy with a lower density, obtained in the same form it will be similar in diameter, but lighter in weight. And if you put tungsten fragments of electrodes into the mold before casting, you can get a very heavy and compact one.

How to make molds for casting a weight

Molds for casting sinkers with your own hands are also quite easy to make from plaster or silicone sealant. A very original and at the same time simple solution is to make a mold for casting from silicone sealant such as “Germesil” or any similar one.

The criterion for choosing a sealant is the ability to withstand high temperatures without changing the properties of the material. Most household sealants have an upper temperature limit of about 150-180°C.

This forces us to use not lead (melting point about 350°C) for casting sinkers, but special alloys with a lower melting point. First of all, we are talking about Wood, Rose and typographic alloys (melting point from 60 to 110 ° C).

When using these particular alloys, the silicone mold will serve for a very long time without deteriorating the quality of the castings.

In the case of lead, a mold made from household sealant can withstand up to 10 castings, and the quality of each subsequent load becomes worse due to the gradual burnout of the sealant over the entire area of ​​​​contact of the molten lead with the mold.

Currently, silicone sealant is easy to buy in auto stores or stores selling building materials. This silicone mold, despite its amazing elasticity and seeming unreliability, can easily withstand high temperatures and a large number of castings.

In addition, silicone sealant gives the angler an amazing opportunity to almost perfectly replicate any, even the most complex, shape of a sinker or spinning bait.

Form for weights

The shape of the weights itself is very simple to make. A small box is taken, which is then filled to the brim with silicone sealant. During filling, you need to ensure that there are no bubbles in the sealant.

Next, the weight or bait that you are going to repeat is lubricated with a solution of wax or paraffin in gasoline, dried and lowered on a wire into a box with sealant so that it is completely immersed in the sealant, but does not touch the walls of the box.

Therefore, you should not remove the sample from the mold until complete polymerization occurs.

This moment can be easily controlled by periodically carefully feeling the shape. When fully cured, the sealant should resemble the consistency of a well-inflated soccer ball. Next, a small sprue hole is carefully cut from the top, through which the sample is removed due to the elasticity of the sealant.

After this, the silicone mold is separated from the box and becomes completely ready for multiple castings. Pouring lead into this form and removing a finished hand-made weight or bait occurs through the same sprue hole.

At the moment of removing the finished sample, the mold stretches each time and, as it were, “spits out” it, after which it instantly takes on its original form and is again ready for more and more castings. The advantages of a mold made from silicone sealant are obvious: it is very cheap, extremely simple and at the same time quite reliable.

In addition to the ball-shaped ear molds, we highly recommend that you make several lentil-type molds for casting. Outwardly, it somewhat resembles a plum pit flattened on the sides. The lentil is lighter than the spherical eared fish, but due to its shape it slips much more easily through the closed mouth of the fish, significantly improving hooking.

The most important use of lentils is when catching pike perch with its bulldog grip. Here are some simple tips on how you can make weights for fishing with your own hands and at no financial cost to you.

Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/otlivka-gruzil-v-domashnih-usloviyah/

Everything about making molds for casting fishing weights yourself

Avid fishermen know that you can save money wisely on your hobby. For example, you can make your own molds for casting fishing weights and not spend money on purchased ones.  

When fishing, sinkers are consumables along with fishing line and hooks. When catching large fish, the fishing line often breaks, and the rod may even break. It’s expensive to buy a new weight every time, because in stores their cost directly depends on the weight. The costs become even more noticeable if multiple gears are involved.  

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade fishing weights

The abundance of homemade gear suggests that making it at home has many advantages: 

  • Saving money. The shape can be made from a variety of things, and the material for the sinker is much cheaper than the pre-made ones sold in stores.
  • The casting process takes a little time.
  • You can make gear in bulk or individually, it all depends on the patience of the fisherman and the casting method.

The disadvantages of homemade products include: 

  • the need to polish finished products;
  • wasting time preparing forms and materials;
  • lower manufacturing accuracy.

Product Configurations

For now, let’s omit the division into factory-made and home-made, let’s look at professionally made gear. First of all, such forms can be divided into marine and freshwater.

Sinkers for sea fishing are, as a rule, larger, which is reflected in the size of the forms.

Matrices for filling can also be stamped or milled. Molten aluminum is poured into the stamped matrix. This is a cheap process because the required shapes are produced by the hundreds on an assembly line. The manufacturer decides which weights are popular and based on this he orders casting dies and then simply clones the molds. Milled products are more expensive.

Sinkers are made in almost any shape:

  • diamond-shaped specimens;
  • spherical;
  • spoon-shaped;
  • teardrop-shaped, etc.

The shape of the sinker is determined by the type of fishing and the reservoir where fishing is planned.  

Which ones are needed for a fishing rod?

To answer this question, you need to decide on the type of catch you expect and what kind of fishing rods you will use. 

For float

This type of fishing does not require a lot of weight. You just need to immerse the fishing line to the desired depth in relatively calm water. This task is accomplished by one or more pellets attached to a fishing line.

Experienced fishermen advise attaching several pellets by cutting them and inserting the fishing line into the cut. In this case, the smallest one should be closer to the hook. The distance between the pellets should be from 5 to 7 cm.  

There is no consensus on what the size of a single pellet should be. Typically, balls with a diameter of 3 to 7 mm are placed.  

For spinning

The presence of a sinker is not necessary for this fishing method. If the bait is heavy, casting is carried out without it. If the weight of the bait is small, more advanced products are required. Shape and weight become categorically important, since casting distance depends on them.   

  1. Spoon-shaped weight. You can easily make it yourself by pouring molten lead into a hole in the ground.
  2. Rhombus. Such products are produced in factories. The average weight of a lead diamond is 30 g, although some specimens reach up to 75 g. They are designed for casting at an average distance.
  3. Ball. A mathematically ideal shape is not ideal for fishing. Such sinkers are not recommended for use on fast rivers, since the current can roll them along the bottom.
  4. Spindle-shaped weights. Good for long casts.

For the donkey

For this kind of donk fishing, weights are cast from gart or lead.

There are several nuances: 

  • For fishing on a flat coastal area, you need a heavy weight.
  • If you plan to fish on a pond, lake or calm river, you need to take a sinker that is not too heavy.
  • For fishing on muddy or rocky bottoms, it is better to use a round, conical or pear-shaped weight.
  • On a sandy bottom and in strong currents, a flat sinker will help out.
  • If there is a lot of debris at the bottom, choose a weighting agent like a vanka-stand. It has a floating top, and the weight occupies a vertical position, supporting the hooks with bait above the bottom.

Where can I get raw materials for casting at home?

The raw materials for the mold can be:

  • gypsum;
  • potato;
  • cardboard;
  • paper;
  • sand.

The following may be useful in production:

  • ballpoint pen caps;
  • plasticine;
  • wires;
  • pieces of plastic;
  • talc;
  • wire and other small things.

Shot is the most popular source of raw material for casting. It can be purchased at a hunting store. If you are a hunter, then you can take already shot shot found in the carcass of your prey.  

You can ask for lead at car repair shops and tire shops. A lot of it usually accumulates there, and workers are ready to give away raw materials for free or for a nominal fee. Any scrap metal will do, quality doesn’t matter.  

Where can I take a cast?

Lead is very easy to melt at 327.5 degrees. An ordinary burner does the job, and many people melt metal right in the kitchen.

This method is dangerous. Lead vapors poison the body and there is a risk of fire. If you do decide to work in the kitchen, be sure to open the windows or turn on the hood.  

Melting lead over a fire looks preferable. This way there is no risk of poisoning, and there will be no unpleasant odor in the room. The disadvantage of this method is the length of the process. It takes a long time to maintain the flame; a lot of wood is wasted. Under no circumstances should you melt in the rain, as water getting into the liquid metal will cause splashes.  

The best, but also the most expensive way is to work with an electric crucible. It can quickly and safely melt a large amount of metal, and do it at home, in the garage or on the street.   

Safety precautions

When casting sinkers over an open fire, fire safety requirements must be observed. Keep water nearby to extinguish potential fires. NEVER pour it into a container with lead.  

The room should be well ventilated, ideally have a hood. The melting process should not be left unattended, but you need to choose thick clothing. Long sleeves and gloves are required to protect your hands from burns if lead is splashed.

Make sure that there are no flammable substances or flammable objects near the stove, fire or electric crucible. This especially applies to clothing. In addition, it is very difficult to remove the chemical smell of lead from it.  

Step-by-step instructions on how to make it yourself

If you follow safety precautions and have a basic understanding of physics, the process of creating a matrix and casting a sinker is not difficult.

You need to prepare the necessary tools, materials and clothing in advance so as not to be distracted from melting later.

Manufacturing of matrices

There are many materials for matrices. The use of some does not require special skills (plaster molds), others (potato molds) require using your imagination.  

Plaster

The method allows you to make a disposable mold for a simple weighting agent. You will need:  

  • gypsum;
  • planks;
  • screws or small nails;
  • candle;
  • finished sample sinker;
  • wire.

The process is divided into several stages: 

  1. Make a composite box from planks, fastening them with bolts or nails.
  2. Thin the plaster so that there are no bubbles in it.
  3. Pour some plaster into the box and let it harden.
  4. Dip a sample of the weighting agent halfway into the partially hardened plaster. Drill a hole on the side of the workpiece through which liquid metal will flow. To prevent the hole from sticking together, place a cylinder of suitable dimensions in it, for example, the body of a fountain pen.
  5. Spread vegetable oil over the hardened plaster so that later it is easy to separate one half of the mold from the other.
  6. Place the other half of the box and pour plaster into it until it completely covers the sample.
  7. When the plaster has hardened, carefully disassemble the box and remove the sample and the filler cylinder.
  8. Clean the mold and coat the inside with a layer of soot (soot from a burning candle).
  9. Attach the sinker loops along with the eyes. Assemble the shape and secure it with wire.
  10. The matrix should dry on its own for 1-2 days. Can be dried in the oven.
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Potato

It is difficult to say who and how was the first to come up with this exotic method, but it works. You will need:

  • large potato;
  • knife;
  • rosin;
  • cargo sample.

In general terms the procedure looks like this: 

  1. In an unpeeled large potato, a casting cavity is cut out to fit the size of the future product.
  2. A sample of the sinker is melted to such a state that a crust forms when it comes into contact with the potatoes.
  3. When the crust has cooled, additionally coat it with rosin so that the layer is 1-2 mm.

The first pour will need to be done very carefully, but then the mold will dry out more and more, and the process will go well. 

From sealant

Silicone is highly versatile. The qualities of the material make it possible not only to create protective coatings or implants from it, but also to make good matrices for casting.  

List of materials: 

  • heat-resistant sealant (GERMENT works well);
  • talc;
  • planks;
  • screwdriver;
  • soft brush;
  • weighting material sample.

Mode of production: 

  1. Make wooden formwork.
  2. Mix talc and sealant in a 1:1 ratio. The consistency should be like plasticine.
  3. Lubricate the inside of the formwork with talcum powder.
  4. Place the finished mass in the formwork so that it touches the walls, but only occupies half the volume of the box.
  5. Level the mass inside the formwork.
  6. Take the model of the future sinker and press it halfway into the mass.
  7. Using a screwdriver, make a groove for pouring lead.
  8. Using a stick dipped in talcum powder, make blind holes in the mass so that you can then adjust the two parts of the mold.
  9. Place the formwork in the refrigerator for several hours to harden.
  10. Mix the sealant with the talcum powder again and make the other half of the mold.
  11. Remove the formwork from the refrigerator and use a brush to apply a layer of talc, which will serve as a separator.
  12. Add the fresh mass to the formwork and compact it thoroughly.
  13. Dry the product for 2 hours, then remove the formwork.

From cardboard

The material can be ordinary thick paper.

This simplest method allows you to make a workpiece quickly, but it will require processing with a file. 

Source: https://klevyj.com/spinning/ostalnoe/formy-dlya-litya-rybolovnyh-gruzil.html

How to pour a lead sinker

Making homemade weights is not only useful, but also a very simple procedure. Weights are needed mainly by bottom fishers and spinning fishermen for rigs with retractable mounting. Even a novice angler can master this technique. The main thing is to have lead, create a fire source and find suitable utensils. In this article we will learn how to make fishing sinkers, where to get lead and what fire sources are best.

Production and use of casting molds for fishing weights

Most anglers, when equipping their fishing rods, are faced with the need to load the bait. Both bottom fishers and spinners have to weigh down their rigs or artificial fish so that they quickly reach the bottom or fly far. Sometimes during a fishing trip you can leave your entire arsenal of fishing weights in a catchable but snagged area of ​​the reservoir.

Some amateurs do not have the financial means to constantly replenish lead supplies, while other fishermen find it difficult to get to specialized stores. In such cases, molds for casting sinkers will come to the rescue. Due to the low melting point of lead and its availability, the necessary cargo can be cast directly on the shore of the reservoir.

What types of weights are there?

  • Molds for casting from different materials
  • Sinker casting process

Molds for casting from different materials

Fishermen make lead sinkers with equal success with their own hands, using factory-made or homemade molds. Basically, most designs differ in the material of manufacture. The most commonly used materials are plaster, wood, aluminum or steel.• Disposable molds can even be made from thick paper. Many novice anglers know how to make a lead sinker for bottom fishing using a tablespoon.

It is enough to pour molten lead into the concave part of a tablespoon to get a neat workpiece. All that remains is to make a hole, and the weight can be installed on the bottom. • The simplest form for casting sinkers can be made from a piece of wooden slats 5-10 mm thick. Using a hacksaw and a knife, you need to make two halves of the future shape in the form of an oval or diamond.

Now all that remains is to place both halves on a flat wooden or metal surface and secure them with clamps or simple stands. In the case of a sliding load, it is necessary to place a steel wire with a thickness of 0.8-1.0 mm inside. You can fill in lead.• Fishermen are often faced with the problem of how to make a mold for lead sinkers according to an existing sample.

For example, every spinner should have a popular type of jig head called “Cheburashka”. And it’s not difficult to make an eared sinker based on a store sample if you make a plaster mold. To pour the creamy solution, you can use 2 ordinary matchboxes. First, one box is filled with the dough-like mass, after which up to half of the “Cheburashka” is immersed in plaster.

Recommendation! The wire ears of the sinker should be located on the surface of the plaster.• As soon as the material dries, a similar operation should be done with the second part of the mold. When the plaster dries in it, all that remains is to combine the two halves, make a hole for pouring and a side hole for air to escape. In opposite corners of the matchboxes, through holes are made for wire pins or a nail.

After such fixation, the halves will not move, maintaining an even spherical figure.• The most durable forms for sinkers are made of aluminum or steel. But you won’t be able to make it well on your own. The help of experienced millers and mechanics will be required. Let's look at the technology for making a steel mold for your favorite Cheburashka.1. First of all, you will need 2 metal bars with a thickness of 20-25 mm.

The width and length depend on the size of the future load and the number of simultaneously cast products. The joining surfaces must be made even and smooth.2. Hemispheres can be made using special spherical burrs. After this, it is important to accurately align both halves, for which you can use ball bearings.

3. Next, holes are made on a drilling machine for the pins, “bleeders” and filler necks. Inside one of the halves it is necessary to make recesses for the wire ears.

Sinker casting process

When a mold for casting sinkers finally appeared, questions related to pouring lead appeared. The ease of making a weight depends to some extent on the quality of the mold. But if you know some of the nuances of working with lead, then everything will work out with both a homemade and a Chinese form, as well as with a product from the Spinmag company. Before you start heating lead, you need to perform several preparatory steps.

If there are wire elements, it is necessary to cut the required section, bend it and carefully place it in the mold. The internal surfaces of the mold into which the molten lead will fall must be lubricated. Then it will be easier to remove the cooled sinker. Tested in practice! The best lubricant is lard. It is enough to rub a piece of sandpaper over all the depressions to make it easier for the finished product to come out of the mold.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=MSZqlmBZzjY

All that remains is to assemble the structure and secure it with special clamps, bolts or pins.• You can melt lead in any tin can. Using pliers, you can make a narrowed part (beak) to obtain a thin stream of melt. To make it convenient to place a kind of ladle on the fire and remove it from it, it is better to make a bend in the side at the top of the jar.• Many fishermen use battery lead.

Melting it at home is dangerous and harmful. Therefore, it is first necessary to make the first melt on the street, pouring a clean fraction, for example, into a spoon. And you can work with pure lead in the kitchen by first turning on the hood. You can also immediately use weights removed from fishing nets.• If a fisherman has few forms, but wants to make many weights with different weights, then you can experiment a little by adding tin to lead.

These two metals melt well and mix with each other. And the resulting sinkers will be lighter than those made from pure lead.• When the metal melts in the ladle, you need to wait a little longer for the temperature of the melt to increase. Then the metal will not harden during the casting process.• It is important to pour hot lead evenly, without stopping. Otherwise, air gaps and unevenness may form inside.

Attention! You can disassemble the mold only after it has completely cooled. This primarily applies to metal structures.• Lead is a soft material. Therefore, flash and burrs can be cut off with a regular knife. Excess metal, which inevitably forms in the filler holes, is removed with wire cutters. A fine file will give the surface a smooth appearance.

Many anglers note that brand new sinkers work worse than tarnished similar models. Therefore, home-made products can first be treated in vinegar (24 hours). Then lower the sinkers into a saturated solution of potassium permanganate for a day.

Today, fishermen can purchase ready-made forms in specialized stores or make them with their own hands. Using these devices correctly, you can get a rich arsenal of fishing sinkers and heads.

Source: https://catcher.fish/ekspertnyi-tsentr/lab/izgotovlenie-i-primenenie-litejny-h-form-dlya-ry-bolovny-h-gruzil/

Homemade sinkers. How to cast a lead sinker How to make a sinker at home

In today's difficult economic conditions, it is worth thinking about making your own gear and its accessories at home. Moreover, some of the necessary fishing equipment is very easy to make. Let's look at the process of making fishing sinkers.

To prepare for the manufacture of lead sinkers, we will need:

First, we will have to make a mold for casting lead weights .

Making a mold for casting lead weights

nothing complicated in making a mold for casting sinkers and even a child can make it.
Now in detail and one by one about how to make a mold for filling sinkers. 1. Take the first plastic cup and cut it as shown in the photo.

2. Cut off the second cup. 3. Cut out the bottom with a heated knife or scalpel. 4. The cut part of the second cup with the bottom cut out should fit into the first cup as in the photo. 5. This is how the sinker for front-loaded spinners will be placed. 6. To lay the sinker, we will have to make a slot in the wall of the cup with a gap for the thickness of the wire lead of the sinker. 7. This is what it should look like. 8. Take gypsum powder and dilute it with water.

Fill the first glass halfway with gypsum solution. All operations with plaster should be done quickly. Unlike cement, it sets quickly. 9. To add rigidity to the structure, we lay a mesh to seal the seams between the plasterboard slabs. 10. Fill the mesh with plaster up to the edge of the cup. 11. We wait until the solution begins to set and then place a sinker in the center so that it is immersed in the gypsum solution to half its thickness. 12.

We wait for it to dry completely, this takes about 30 minutes. 13. Using a knife or scalpel, we make holes around the perimeter for proper alignment of the finished halves of the mold (you can use a drill and a drill bit). 14. Take liquid soap and apply it to the first part of the mold. This must be done to prevent the parts of the form from sticking together. Liquid soap can be replaced with any lubricant. 15. Insert the cut cup with a slot for the leash in the same way as in the photo. 16.

We secure it with tape or tape. 17. Fill it up to half the height with gypsum solution. 18. Don’t forget to lay the mesh for rigidity. 19. Fill to the end. 20. Wait for the second half of the mold to dry completely for 30 minutes and separate both parts. 21. It will look like this. 22. Cut and remove the cups from the plaster parts of the mold for casting the sinkers. 23. Using a scalpel or knife, carefully pry up the sinker and pull it out. 24.

This should be the exact shape of the first half of the sinker.
25. This is what both parts of the sinker . But it’s too early to consider them ready. Our form still lacks a channel for pouring lead and a channel for air outlet (for communication with the atmosphere); it is needed to prevent the formation of pores and cavities. The last channel must be of very small diameter, otherwise it will be filled with a large amount of lead.

There is no need to rush to make these two channels. It is better to do them in a day, the plaster will be even stronger after this time. 26. On another form you can see these channels. 27. This is what the filler hole should look like from the outside when both parts of the mold are aligned. 28. Channels can be easily made with a scalpel or drilled with a drill. 29. We are finalizing the first part of the form for laying the leash with an eye. 30. Check the fit of the parts. 31.

We make notches at the ends to secure the parts with an elastic band.
This will make the process of casting the sinker easier. 32. Now our form is ready and we can proceed to casting the sinkers.

Casting a lead sinker into a homemade plaster mold

Casting sinkers into a plaster mold is very simple and quick. 1. Take a mold that contains a wire leash with an eye and pour in molten lead. In the photo, the form is in the hands, this should not be done. 2. Lead is poured until it fills the entire cavity. 3. After cooling, disassemble the mold. 4. We take out the sinker. 5.

We process the sinker with side cutters and a needle file (file).
The process of making the sinker is complete. In one hour you can make a large number of sinkers of various shapes and different weights. It all depends on how many molds you have made and how much lead you have. This will save your fishing expenses.

You can take lead for making sinkers from old batteries or from the sheath of old electrical cables.

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Today I will tell you how to make fishing weights with your own hands from lead, and not waste money.

Any jig spinner should ideally have a gentleman's set in order to feel confident on any body of water, even in the most unexpected fishing conditions. This set of weights requires the presence of a large number of weights, ranging from 1.5 g to 35 g, and sometimes more, with an interval of 2-4 g.

For example, when we go on a trip, we always take with us a set of ordinary ears with weights of 1.5 g, 4 g, 6 g, 9 g, 12 g, 15 g, 18 g, 20 g, 22 g, 25 g, 28 g, respectively. 32 g, 35 g.

Of course, such a large amount of shot and buckshot is quite burdensome to carry around all day, especially since the load of each weight must be backed up in case of snags. But this, in a sense, store assortment allows us to select bait for absolutely any fishing conditions.

Unfortunately, the fishing industry lags far behind the potential needs of the market, and you will not find such a selection, especially eared fish, anywhere. The way out of this current situation is quite simple - you need to cast and make weights for fishing yourself. This kills two birds with one stone - on the one hand, you save time by not running around stores looking for the weight you need, and on the other hand, you stop being afraid of losing them on cliffs.

How to make a lead weight

How to make weights for fishing with your own hands from lead, because according to statistics, out of 100 fishermen, only 1 is a jack of all trades or a high-class mechanic who is able to make molds for casting on his own.

We should not forget that in our country the hardest currency, oddly enough, is liquid, and if you are able to explain to a mechanic, who is easy to meet at the entrance of any factory, what you need and what he needs, then this problem is completely solved in just a few days.

The only thing is that in order to obtain forms for each weight, it is necessary to inform the mechanic of the exact diameters of the future ears. For convenience, we provide below a table of correspondence between diameters and weights in the shape of a ball.

This table is compiled specifically for lead, taking into account its density, so if you want to cast, for example, a Wood or Rose alloy with a lower density, obtained in the same form it will be similar in diameter, but lighter in weight. And if you put tungsten fragments of electrodes into the mold before casting, you can get a very heavy and compact one.

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How to make molds for casting a weight

Molds for casting sinkers with your own hands are also quite easy to make from plaster or silicone sealant. A very original and at the same time simple solution is to make a mold for casting from silicone sealant such as “Germesil” or any similar one. The criterion for choosing a sealant is the ability to withstand high temperatures without changing the properties of the material.

Most household sealants have an upper temperature limit of about 150-180°C. This forces us to use not lead (melting point about 350°C) for casting sinkers, but special alloys with a lower melting point. First of all, we are talking about Wood, Rose and typographic alloys (melting point from 60 to 110 ° C).

When using these particular alloys, the silicone mold will serve for a very long time without deteriorating the quality of the castings.

In the case of lead, a mold made from household sealant can withstand up to 10 castings, and the quality of each subsequent load becomes worse due to the gradual burnout of the sealant over the entire area of ​​​​contact of the molten lead with the mold.

Currently, silicone sealant is easy to buy in auto stores or stores selling building materials. This silicone mold, despite its amazing elasticity and seeming unreliability, can easily withstand high temperatures and a large number of castings.

In addition, silicone sealant gives the angler an amazing opportunity to almost perfectly replicate any, even the most complex, shape of a sinker or spinning bait.

Form for weights

The shape of the weights itself is very simple to make. A small box is taken, which is then filled to the brim with silicone sealant. During filling, you need to ensure that there are no bubbles in the sealant.

Next, the weight or bait that you are going to repeat is lubricated with a solution of wax or paraffin in gasoline, dried and lowered on a wire into a box with sealant so that it is completely immersed in the sealant, but does not touch the walls of the box. In such a suspended state, a sample of the future fishing weight or bait should be kept until the sealant has completely hardened.

The polymerization process of silicone sealant throughout the entire volume of the mold is not uniform, and complete hardening of the silicone mold can take five to six days. Therefore, you should not remove the sample from the mold until complete polymerization occurs.

This moment can be easily controlled by periodically carefully feeling the shape. When fully cured, the sealant should resemble the consistency of a well-inflated soccer ball. Next, a small sprue hole is carefully cut from the top, through which the sample is removed due to the elasticity of the sealant. After this, the silicone mold is separated from the box and becomes completely ready for multiple castings.

Pouring lead into this form and removing a finished hand-made weight or bait occurs through the same sprue hole. At the moment of removing the finished sample, the mold stretches each time and, as it were, “spits out” it, after which it instantly takes on its original form and is again ready for more and more castings. The advantages of a mold made from silicone sealant are obvious: it is very cheap, extremely simple and at the same time quite reliable.

In addition to the ball-shaped ear molds, we highly recommend that you make several lentil-type molds for casting. Outwardly, it somewhat resembles a plum pit flattened on the sides. The lentil is lighter than the spherical eared fish, but due to its shape it slips much more easily through the closed mouth of the fish, significantly improving hooking. The most important use of lentils is when catching pike perch with its bulldog grip.

Here are some simple tips on how you can make weights for fishing with your own hands and at no financial cost to you.

Buy at good discounts for personal use and as a gift to friends and acquaintances.

Buy quality products at affordable prices at. Give gifts to yourself and your loved ones!

Source: https://vklyakse.ru/samodelnye-gruzila-kak-otlit-gruzilo-iz-svinca-kak-sdelat-gruzilo.html

Homemade sinkers

  • What you will need
  • Mold making
  • Casting
  • on this topic

You can make a lead sinker for fishing with your own hands, absolutely without any tools, devices, or even the use of electrical energy. Although there are many methods, they differ only in the means available, the principle is the same in all cases - lead casting. Let's look at a couple of the simplest methods for making handicraft sinkers for donks and feeders.

What you will need

First of all, you need raw materials - crushed lead. It can be purchased at the market, at a recycling collection point, obtained from friends, or removed from an old battery. Usually it is a thin plate that is easily broken by hand and cut with metal scissors.

Next you need a container where the metal will melt. Utensils made of any metal will do, even a can. The melting point of lead is about 3300 C, which is significantly lower than for aluminum and steel.

You will also need a source of thermal energy that can quickly melt the metal: a miniature gas burner, any stove, an open fire, a stove. The main thing is to adhere to safety precautions.

Important! It is not recommended to melt metal in a residential building or building (garage, workshop) without exhaust hood or ventilation. This poses a risk of lead vapor poisoning.

To attach it, you need to make a hole in the sinker or insert a wire or swivel. The hole is drilled with a thin drill or made during casting.

The simplest form (matrix) is an unnecessary metal spoon.

Depending on the geometry of the sinker, the matrix for its production can be made at home or ordered once from a milling machine at the factory.

Disposable – made of silicone, sealant, wood

Sinker for fishing

The matrix can be any object that can withstand the melting temperature of lead, even one made of silicone, butyl, sealant or liquid nails:

  • A sample sinker is placed in a container filled with the listed material, but does not touch the walls, and is left until it hardens.
  • The frozen matrix is ​​removed from the container, and sample weights are removed from it.
  • A small hole is made to supply air next to where the metal is poured.

This form can be used up to 7–8 times - liquid lead melts the sealant/silicone with each pour and changes the geometry of the matrix.

Attention! Simple dies that allow you to cast a lead sinker can be cut from a piece of wood and a potato (with a knife, cutter, engraver). They can also be used multiple times.

Any available container is used as formwork - a plastic container, a wooden box. Diluted plaster is placed in the formwork, greased with fat, cream, and warm wax. Tap the container to release all air bubbles.

As soon as the plaster begins to set, lead sample weights, lubricated with soap, wax or oil, are lowered into it. The fat will prevent the metal from sticking to the plaster.

Then several guides are inserted to make closing the mold easier and more accurately - matches, toothpicks.

If necessary, insert fastening elements along with product samples.

After the bottom layer has hardened, it and the sinker are greased and covered with a fresh plaster solution.

Upon completion, the form is removed from the formwork and opened

Holes for pouring liquid metal and supplying oxygen are made by inserting wire during casting or made with improvised means. Before pouring the metal, both parts of the mold are held together using a clamp.

On a note! Similar forms are made from clay.

Sand, earth, salt. These materials are suitable if the sinker needs to be made cone-shaped.

  1. A cone is rolled out of paper and reinforced - wrapped with thin wire.
  2. Sifted dry sand, table salt, and dry ground ground into dust are collected in a glass or other container.
  3. A wire, swivel, other fastener or knitting needle (something similar) is placed in the mold to make a hole, and the mold itself is placed in a glass with sand.

Casting takes less time than preparing for it. Ground lead must be heated to the melting point and poured into a mold with a fastener (or it is inserted into the molten metal).

Before casting, the molds are secured with clamps for reliability.

To create a hole, a match or knitting needle is inserted into the liquid metal. After cooling and removing the sinker, it is finished and cleaned using a file, needle file, or sandpaper. The missing holes are drilled in it and slots are made with a metal saw or burr.

***

You can cast fishing sinkers from lead of various configurations at home without any special equipment or tools. This requires lead and a little time.

Source: https://intellifishing.ru/snasti/samodelnye-gruzila

DIY fishing sinkers

To ensure that the gear is cast a considerable distance from the shore, as well as to ensure its reliable immersion and fixation at the bottom of the reservoir, almost every fishing gear is equipped with a sinker. Despite the fact that in exceptional cases any metal object of suitable weight can be used for this purpose, a properly made sinker will allow you to catch fish as efficiently as possible.

What should the sinker be like?

A high-quality sinker must meet the following parameters:

  • be heavy - for the manufacture of parts, as a rule, lead is used, which has the highest possible density from the materials available to the fisherman;
  • have a streamlined shape with a perfectly smooth surface - when casting the tackle, aerodynamic forces act on the sinker. The rougher the surface of the sinker, the more rectangular its shape, the shorter the flight of the tackle will be when casting, and when retrieving fish or removing the tackle from the water for checking, more effort will be required;
  • have a reliable fastening for the fishing line;
  • do not stand out against the background of the bottom, so as not to scare away cautious fish;
  • made from inexpensive materials.

To put these conditions into practice, it is enough to stock up on the required amount of lead and metal or ceramic utensils for melting this metal.

Casting a simple sinker in a spoon

The easiest way to make a lead sinker for bottom tackle is to cast it in an aluminum spoon. You will need the following materials and tools:

  • lead - you can use old unnecessary weights or plates from an acid battery;
  • aluminum spoon;
  • container for melting lead - the melting temperature of lead is +327 degrees Celsius, so this operation can be carried out even in aluminum containers. A steel or ceramic container will also work for this purpose;
  • steel tongs.

The production of the sinker is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. A container for melting metal is installed on the burner or fire;
  2. Crushed lead is placed in the container;
  3. When the lead melts, pour molten lead into the spoon, fixing it in a strictly horizontal position.

Once the metal has cooled, it can be easily separated from the aluminum surface of the spoon and used as a sinker.

How to cast a sinker in a spoon

Cone sinker made from paper mold

The advantage of the method of pouring a fishing sinker using a paper form is the ability to experiment with the geometry of this product. The most common option - pouring it into a matchbox - is not recommended because it results in a sinker with very poor aerodynamic qualities.

While an aluminum spoon for making lead weights can be reused many times, molten lead poured into a paper mold will make it unsuitable for reuse.

To make a cone-shaped lead sinker you will need:

  • thick paper;
  • lead;
  • melting container;
  • burner;
  • container with sand.

Making a cone sinker:

  1. A cone of the required shape is made from thick paper;
  2. The top of the cone at its thinnest part is cut off;
  3. Instead of a cut piece of paper, a steel wire is installed in the cone, which is wound in a ring on the outside, and the piece of wire installed in the cone has a “whisker”;
  4. A recess is made in a container with sand into which a paper cone with a wire fastening is installed. Installation is carried out with the narrow part of the cone facing down. If necessary, sand is added to the container, which should completely cover the cone from the outside. In this case, sand should not be allowed to get inside the paper funnel;
  5. The melting container is heated on a burner or fire, then pieces of lead are added. When the metal is melted, it is poured into a paper mold. After the lead has cooled, the sinker can be used for its intended purpose.

Shape for a cone sinker

Casting sinkers in a cement mold

If it is necessary to produce a large number of lead products, then a reusable product is needed as a casting mold. Cement molds have excellent characteristics, which allow you to cast fishing sinkers of any configuration.

Making such a device will take some time, so this option is not suitable for urgent production of a sinker.

To create the form you will need:

  • cement grade M400 or M500;
  • metal tape 30-40 mm wide;
  • workpiece;
  • container for solution;
  • metal knitting needle;
  • scotch;
  • electric drill and a set of twist drills.

Mold making process:

  1. A circle is made from a metal strip, the diameter slightly exceeding the length of the workpiece;
  2. To prevent the ribbon from “unraveling,” the circle is secured with tape;
  3. The resulting ring is tightly closed with tape on one side;
  4. In two places exactly in the middle of the ring, opposite each other, 2 holes with a diameter of 4-5 mm are drilled to install the knitting needle;
  5. A knitting needle is inserted into one hole from the outside, a workpiece is put on it, then the knitting needle is threaded into the opposite hole;
  6. Cement in the amount of 200 g is poured into the container for the solution, water is added and a solution of a creamy consistency is made;
  7. The solution is poured into a container made of metal tape, exactly halfway. Then you need to wait 24 hours for the solution to harden;
  8. A thin layer of motor oil is applied to the hardened cement surface. For proper distribution of the lubricant, wait 30 minutes;
  9. The cement mortar is mixed again and poured until the mold is completely filled. Let the form harden for 3 days;
  10. When the cement mortar is completely dry, the form is carefully disassembled. First, the knitting needle is removed from the frozen solution, then the tape is removed and the tape is unraveled;
  11. The resulting concrete puck with the blank inside is carefully split in the middle.

When the mold is divided into 2 halves, the sinker blank is removed, and a sprue is made to fill the void formed in its place. To do this, the two halves of the mold are again connected so that the original shape of the sinker is formed inside.

Exactly in the middle, using a concrete drill, a hole is made to the void inside the form. The drill used is 6 mm in diameter. To facilitate the flow of molten lead into the mold, a small hole is drilled with a larger diameter drill until a funnel is formed.

After completing this operation, the mold will be completely ready for repeated casting of sinkers.

The process of casting sinkers in a concrete mold is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. The concrete form is placed in sand, which is preheated in a ceramic or metal container. The sprue must remain outside, and sand must be completely prevented from getting into the mold;
  2. Lead is melted and poured in a thin stream into the sprue;
  3. After the mold and lead have cooled, it must be removed from the sand and carefully disassembled. Thus, you can get professional-quality sinkers for bottom fishing at home.

Processing of freshly cast sinkers

Once the sinkers are cast, they must be properly processed. If the lead weight was cast in an aluminum spoon, then a hole must be drilled in the metal to attach the fishing line.

The hole is drilled in the narrow part of the sinker using an electric drill and a 2 mm twist drill. It is imperative to chamfer the hole with a drill of a larger diameter, otherwise the sharp edges of the metal will lead to rapid abrasion of the fishing line and breakage of the sinker.

Freshly cast sinkers must be slightly shaded so that the shine from the smooth lead surface in the water does not scare away wary fish. For this purpose, a concentrated aqueous solution of potassium permanganate is used, in which the part must be kept for several hours.

If, after casting, sagging has formed on the surface of the product, they must be removed using a velvet file.

When working with lead, you must remember the rules for safe handling of heavy metals. It is strictly forbidden to breathe lead vapors, as well as to use kitchen utensils for their intended purpose after contact with this metal.

How to make a sinker for fishing is described in detail in this article, and if you strictly follow all the recommendations, you can get a very high-quality product with excellent aerodynamic properties at home

Source: https://handf.mirtesen.ru/comments/42927330357/page

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