How to properly harden and swim: instructions for beginners
In order not to get sick in winter, to become physically resilient and to have a cheerful spirit, you need to harden yourself. This process is gradual and requires compliance with basic rules. And after hardening, you can take up winter swimming and dive into an ice hole in the coldest weather.
Hardening brings great benefits. Its mechanism of action is based on irritation of receptors, located in large numbers on the skin, and affecting the entire body. The procedure increases the tone of the dermis and cardiovascular system, reduces arrhythmia. Strengthens the nervous system and gives a boost of energy for the whole day.
Accelerates metabolic processes in the body and promotes weight loss. Hardening activities lead to strengthening of the immune system and improve resistance to viral diseases. The thermoregulation system, whose work is based on maintaining a constant body temperature relative to external environmental conditions, copes faster and better.
But hardening must be done correctly.
Contraindications for hardening and winter swimming
Hardening is a stressful situation for the body. And this procedure is not suitable for everyone. Instead of a positive effect, when the body is strengthened and rejuvenated, irreparable harm is caused. There is an exacerbation of chronic diseases, a cold appears, which can turn into inflammation of the respiratory system.
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There are a number of contraindications for those who should not engage in hardening:
- autoimmune diseases such as vasculitis, lupus erythematosus and others;
- diseases of the genitourinary system and respiratory organs;
- diseases of the cardiovascular system - coronary heart disease, obliterating diseases of the peripheral arteries and heart failure.
Elderly people should approach the procedures with caution. A sharp temperature contrast leads to heart attacks, strokes, and the development of diseases of the nervous or cardiovascular systems.
There is always an alternative to hardening - sports with moderate loads. After all, the main goal is to strengthen the body, and not to harm yourself.
If the body does not tolerate cold well
Hardening with cold water gradually develops the habit of not reacting sharply to cold. However, there are people who have a very difficult and slow time adapting to low temperatures.
This depends on several factors:
- A small layer of fat. The natural protective barrier does not stop the cold. It affects the internal organs and causes severe chills. If there is anemia and hypothyroidism, when the thyroid gland is not active enough.
- Raynaud's phenomenon. It leads to vasospasm in the extremities.
Many diseases are treatable. It is necessary to eliminate the cause so that it does not feel bad after dousing with cold water. Only a healthy body will benefit from hardening and give a good mood.
How to temper yourself correctly
It is important to follow the basic recommendations for dousing with cold water so as not to harm your health and strengthen the body.
Rule No. 1: Start hardening only when the body is healthy
If you have chronic diseases in remission or the body has not fully recovered from a cold or viral disease, you should first wait for a complete recovery and only then begin hardening procedures.
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Examine the body.
A contraindication to cold dousing is the presence of serious damage to the skin. These include purulent inflammation. Exposure to ice water will cause an even larger abscess. People who suffer from high eye pressure experience vasospasm after exposure to cold. This leads to serious complications, including retinal detachment.
For those suffering from high or low blood pressure, you should be careful not to provoke a crisis.
It is advisable to undergo an examination by a doctor before starting hardening and get his recommendations.
Rule #2: Temper up gradually to avoid stress
Not everyone is accustomed to endure being doused with cold water steadfastly and with pleasure. It is important to have a positive attitude towards getting healthy from the very beginning. To maintain a positive mood, start small - with your morning wash.
If you are in the habit of using water at room temperature, then lower it by one degree every day. This will not lead to stress, will give you vigor and motivate you for further more extensive hardening.
Rule No. 3: Maintain regularity and do not take breaks
Hardening is a system. It starts with something small: washing, wiping with a cold towel or dousing your feet. Everyone decides for themselves which method to choose. Gradually the body gets used to the cold. This process must not be disrupted. Once we started, we need to continue.
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Long trips, outdoor recreation or other changes in location should not become an obstacle to the hardening process. If there is a break, you will have to start again.
Winter swimming rules
Winter swimming is a quick dive into icy water or a short swim over a short distance. The body instantly loses heat and not everyone can withstand such an event. They prepare for it thoroughly.
After long-term and daily procedures of small exposure to cold water on the body, it is prepared for even greater cold loads.
To switch to winter swimming:
Start taking a shower. First, cool water - 36°C. Lower the temperature by 1°C every day. After dousing, move actively to increase blood circulation. Rub your body with a dry and warm towel to warm up.
Stay warm. Drink hot tea and warm your feet. Avoid alcoholic drinks.
Go out into the frosty air every day, lightly dressed. Walk for 2-3 minutes at first. Gradually increase the duration to accustom your body to the cold.
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When you feel ready to dive into the hole, follow the rules:
- Warm up well with physical exercises before swimming. Wear shoes when going to the dive site so as not to get hypothermic and not get injured on the ice. Don't dive in head first. It contains cold-sensitive vessels. Spasm and serious health consequences are possible. Only experienced walruses allow themselves to dive headlong.
- After swimming, be sure to dry yourself with a warm towel and do active exercises.
- Then rub your body. The direction of movement is from the limbs to the body. Massage your lower back, stomach and chest clockwise.
- Active actions after diving make the blood circulate faster and the blood vessels dilate.
Good health, vigor and high spirits indicate that the preparation for winter swimming went well. Continue diving into the ice hole, but no more than 3 times a week. Exposure to low temperatures causes stress in the body and requires 1 to 3 days to restore resources.
If the chill from the cold does not go away after diving, then the body needs additional time to get used to the ice water.
It is worth resuming dousing with cold water and holding off on swimming in the ice hole. During the coldest months of winter, take a break to avoid hypothermia and illness. An alternative to diving is running for several kilometers and active sports. Published by econet.ru
*Ekonet.ru articles are intended for informational and educational purposes only and do not replace professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always consult your physician with any questions you may have about a medical condition.
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Source: https://econet.ru/articles/kak-pravilno-zakalyatsya-i-morzhevat-instruktsiya-dlya-novichkov
Products – Tekhmashholding – group of companies, official website
- Stainless steel is widely used in household and industrial applications to create various items due to its significant number of positive qualities. It is an alloy of various materials that give stainless steel resistance to corrosion and aggressive environments. Based on their percentage, it is possible to create different types of material in the alloy. At home, items made from so-called food grade stainless steel, taps and mixers, sinks and sinks in the kitchen, tableware and other things are often used. Therefore, it is often necessary to drill through stainless steel for some purpose. However, you should prepare for the process. That is, study the recommendations of more experienced craftsmen, if the procedure is being performed with your own hands for the first time, and also select suitable drills and lubricants. In addition to experience, you will need a bit of sensitivity and attentiveness. This is far from the only thing a master needs. What helps most when drilling is lubricating fluid, without which the master risks damaging the drills and the material. The lubricant consists of machine oil and sulfur, so it is easily recognized by its viscous form and increased fat content. In addition to choosing the right material, you need to know some features of how to drill a hole in stainless steel.
- a bar of soap is rubbed, and the resulting mass is poured with hot water;
- technical hydrochloric acid is carefully poured into the soap solution;
- when fatty acids float to the surface, pour in cold water;
- wait until they harden and remove the top layer.
- The chemical composition of stainless steel grades helps to increase the ductility of the metal. When drilling such steels, chips stick to the drill, causing the cutting edges to be excluded from the process, and hardening forms on the walls inside the unfinished hole. Such surface hardening makes further processing difficult and changes the physical properties in this place.
- Heat is removed from the drill heated by rotation and cutting along the surface of the metal. Without taking preventive measures, you can end up with a tarnished area around the drilling. In addition to the damaged decorative surface, this reduces corrosion resistance and requires additional technological operations to restore the specified parameters.
Nuances when drilling
What needs to be done is to decide on a tool. What exactly to use depends on the diameter of the holes needed. If up to 12 mm, then at home you can get by with a hand drill. Nothing else will help you drill holes in stainless steel as efficiently as preliminary marking. It is especially effective when making single holes or processing hardened and sheet metal. Axial marks are applied to the workpiece under the drill, and then a small recess is made in the product. Later they are deepened to the required size. A template is another thing that will help save time when drilling, because the contours of the holes are pre-marked on it. Craftsmen have to resort to tricks when the work is done from the edge of the surface. Usually, half-holes are needed here, which are made as follows: a plate of the same material is attached to the workpiece, which is clamped in a vice. After which you can drill out a standard recess, and upon completion of the work, simply remove the attached plate.
Useful drilling techniques
Every master who has gotten his hands on this business has a couple of clever tricks that greatly simplify the drilling process. Many videos and photos on the site will clearly demonstrate what needs to be done and how. First of all, you should pay attention to the plane in which the working surface is located. When you need to drill a hole in a horizontally located object, coolant is poured into a small plug through which the drilling is carried out. If the structure is installed vertically, then a paraffin ball is attached to the site of the future hole. Thanks to this trick, it is possible to quickly complete the work even in the most inconvenient places. Another important nuance that should be remembered when planning to drill stainless steel is to set the drill to minimum speed. To obtain standard holes, a speed of up to 150 revolutions is sufficient. If the speed is too high, the lubricant simply will not have time to cool the drill. What to do with equipment that does not have a speed switch? Press the “Start” button and release after 1-2 seconds. If you work with such short presses, the drill motor will not develop high speed. If you have to drill a lot and often into stainless steel, you should buy a special stand for the drill. Financially, the expenses will be small, and the process will be significantly simplified. You can determine that the drill is dull or the material is overheated by darkening of the chips. Therefore, skilled craftsmen first use small-diameter drills, for example, a four-piece. Then the hole is brought to the desired size, obtaining smooth and neat edges. This is especially important when drilling stainless pipes. In this case, an ideal result can only be achieved using a special stepped cone drill. When it is necessary to make a hole of a large diameter, from about 15 millimeters, a crown hole is used, in other words, a crown.
Use of lubricants
To prevent the procedure from ending in failure, you need to use cooling materials. The thing is that stainless steel has high viscosity. During operation, the load falls simultaneously on the drill and the material, as a result of which overheating of either one or the other may occur. Therefore, it is so important to consider how to cool the tool. When you have to drill a lot, it makes more sense to attach an automatic supply of lubricants to the machine. If drilling is a single and rare case, then the drills are processed immediately before drilling. A mixture of machine oil and sulfur is used as a lubricant. In this case, sulfur can be taken both colloidal and for fumigation, well known as “sulfur color”. If it was purchased in powder form, then the substance is simply mixed with machine oil. When the sulfur is lumpy, it still needs to be ground. An effective cooling lubricant is a mixture of sulfur and fatty acids, which can be obtained at home from ordinary laundry soap. To do this, perform the following steps:
When creating a cooling material, fatty acids and sulfur are taken in a 6:1 ratio. The effort and time spent are justified, because this composition will help drill through even the thickest stainless steel.
Drill selection
Choosing a reliable drill is an important step when preparing for drilling. On sale you can find foreign tools manufactured according to the DIN-338 standard and marked HSS-CO. It makes it clear that the composition contains at least 5% cobalt, as in old Soviet drills. You can recognize a stainless steel product by its obtuse sharpening angle, which makes alignment easier when starting work. Such a tool is easy to obtain in any specialized store at an affordable price.
As for carbide tools, they are suitable for processing stainless surfaces and products made from this material. But problems may arise with its purchase, since such drills are not available in every hardware store, plus they are much more expensive.
When choosing tools, you should purchase only high-strength products. You can look for old cobalt drills, which are still considered the best.
If you fail, then you should stick to products from Ruko, Bosch, Gross, Hilti, which are available in most stores. The price depends on the diameter, for example, a 3 mm tool can be bought for about 100 rubles. The larger the diameter, the higher the price.
It will not be difficult for real craftsmen to adjust the angle of a conventional drill if they have a diamond wheel at home.
oxmetall.ru
Stainless steel drills - which ones are worth taking and which ones not?
How and with what to drill through stainless steel? I think you have asked this question more than once. Of course, such a need does not arise often, but when the question of drilling stainless steel arises, most craftsmen are unprepared.
You cannot take stainless steel with ordinary drills, although this primarily depends on your skill and knowledge in this matter. So let's deal with the problem))
Stainless steel differs from ordinary metal in that it is very viscous and when drilling, the drill instantly heats up. That is why the key to successful drilling in stainless steel is cooling the drill. To do this, you can use either a special coolant for drills, or unscrew it yourself.
There are a lot of options, for example, you can use oil, which you can easily buy at the pharmacy, as an option - castor oil (ordinary castor oil), if you follow the instructions, then you need to drill stainless steel with oleic acid. And of course, you can use regular machine oil.
When drilling a horizontal surface, take some kind of plug or rubber washer, pour oil into it and drill through it. If you need to drill vertically, for example, a stainless steel sheet is fixed vertically, then you can use paraffin, roll it into a ball and stick it on the drilling site. We drill through it.
Next is the number of revolutions. It should be approximately 300-600, up to 1000. With a higher number of revolutions, the drill burns faster and does not have time to cool even with the use of coolant.
When drilling a diameter larger than 6 mm, you need to use the “double” method - this means that first you drill with a small diameter drill, then use a drill of the required diameter. For example, if you need a hole with a diameter of 5 mm, then first use a 2-3 mm drill, then 6 mm.
Well, the main, most important tool is drills. Drills come in different varieties, but in recent years their quality has noticeably deteriorated. If you decide to try to drill stainless steel with ordinary drills made of R6M5 steel, then you are unlikely to be able to make a hole. Although, if the stainless steel sheet is not thick and everything is in order with cooling, then the case may burn out.
For trouble-free drilling of stainless steel, high-strength drills are used. There are also plenty of options. From personal experience, I believe that the best drills for stainless steel are old Soviet metal drills with a quality mark, with the addition of cobalt. The marking of such drills is P6M5K5. They are very strong, after all, in the USSR the quality mark meant a lot.
Until now, in our store they ask for exactly Soviet drills; of course, you won’t find cobalt drills during the day, but you can find standard P6M5 drills of some diameters.
Also, good results were demonstrated by ancient Sovdepov drills made of the now rare P18 steel. Finding such drills, especially with a quality mark, is now simply unrealistic. However, it is still found in stocks. Such drills sell like hot cakes even at a high price.
What to do if you can’t find Soviet drills, but you need to drill stainless steel? There is a way out, but be prepared to spend a lot of money. Special stainless steel drills from the Ruko company are sold in stores; they have proven themselves to be excellent, but they are quite expensive.
For example, a drill with a diameter of 3 mm costs about 100 rubles. Not weak, to be sure. And large diameters already cost several hundred rubles. The drills are cobalt, although the marking is already imported - HSS-Co DIN338 (Co - cobalt). Its composition is similar to R6M5K5 steel, that is, the percentage of cobalt in the steel is also 5.
Well, the “coolest” version of drills is carbide for metal. They differ from Pobedit drills for concrete in that they are sharpened on one side and have a sharper angle. True, finding such drills is even more problematic than Soviet cobalt ones.
As an option, if you have an emery machine with a diamond sharpening wheel at home, you can independently resharpen a regular carbide drill for drilling stainless steel. It's a simple matter if you know how to sharpen drills.
Source: https://pellete.ru/stal/sverlenie-nerzhaveyucshej-stali.html
Drilling stainless steel at home - Metalworker's Guide
Industrial development and high requirements for product certification in international markets lead to the widespread use of high-quality stainless steels. When creating projects, designers prefer welding connections of individual components.
The bolted and rivet connection was not affected by this and is often used in modern structures. Drilling of stainless steel may be necessary to create process holes. The material presented in this article will give general concepts and features of this process with anti-corrosion alloys.
Preparatory work
Preparatory work consists of eliminating some of the negative factors associated with drilling stainless steel. Let's look at what properties make this process difficult:
To avoid the disadvantages described above, before drilling it is necessary to decide how the surface will be cooled and what to do to prevent chips from sticking. Among the effective methods, water is suitable. If the volume of metal being drilled is more than one hole with a diameter of 10 mm in a sheet of 2 mm thickness, then you should consider cooling with oil or a special emulsion.
Attention. Cooling with water when drilling stainless steel occurs during the process itself. Cooling by lowering a hot drill into a jar standing nearby leads to hardening and tempering of the metal and loss of basic properties. Coolant is supplied to the contact point when drilling. To reduce consumption, you can place a rubber ring on the surface, surrounding the contact point.
Drilling modes
The correct choice of drilling mode is the key to obtaining a high-quality hole. The main components are speed, feed and torque.
Cutting speed is a conditional value that determines how quickly a point located on the surface of the tool rotates relative to its center. This means that different drill diameters require different speeds to achieve the same cutting speed.
Example. For steel 08Х13Н with a thickness of 10-15 millimeters, the reference book indicates a cutting speed of 20 m/min. If it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 1 mm, the spindle speed of the drilling machine should be 6366 rpm. If a hole is drilled with a diameter of 10 mm, then the revolutions should not exceed 637 revolutions in 60 seconds.
The feed of a drill into metal means the amount of movement into the depth of the hole being drilled for a certain number of revolutions. That is, this is the sinking speed. Measured in millimeters per revolution. It is important to maintain the recommended values to obtain a high-quality result and reduce the impact of chips on the cutting edges.
The torque transmitted to the drill during the drilling process is an important factor for the drill and the material, determining the choice of steel for the drill and the composition of the coolants. In ordinary words, this is the load on the drill resulting from the resistance of the material to deformations created by the edges of the drill.
The choice of each parameter is determined by the grade of stainless steel, the thickness of the sheet or part, the choice of equipment, the selection of cooling method, drill material, surface roughness and other factors. There are many reference books and regime maps for the main brands. The correct selection and high qualifications of the technologist who draws up the regime maps will allow you to avoid additional processing operations and finishing, reducing production costs.
Stainless steel drills
The variety of drilling equipment today can confuse even experienced professionals.
The most common are cobalt drills. Their name indicates the presence of cobalt in the chemical composition of the alloy. A stainless steel drill is a high-speed steel product.
Increasing the percentage of cobalt increases the red-hotness; the alloy will retain its properties after heating to red-hot temperatures.
These include tool steel R6M5K5, the main material for the manufacture of cutting tools for stainless steel in domestic and foreign markets.
In addition to the material, the design of the drill itself is important. The most expensive and high-quality ones are made using technology when grooves are formed on grinding machines. The absence of deformation stresses makes them stronger and expands drilling parameters. These grooves do not have microscopic burrs and facilitate chip exit, preventing the grooves from sticking. The sharpening angle of the drill should be 135 degrees. This leads to a reduction in load.
Attention. When you go to the store to buy a drill, do not forget that the presence of cobalt in the drill does not affect its color. The drill should not be yellow, as the sellers claim. This is just a publicity stunt of unscrupulous manufacturers.
Drilling technique
Drilling a hole larger than 6 millimeters must be done in two stages. First, a hole with a diameter of up to 5 mm is drilled, and then brought to the required diameter. The absence of internal stresses before drilling will simplify and expand the range of operating parameters. This will extend the life of the drill and avoid overheating of the surface.
Before drilling into stainless steel, find out its grade, thickness, and recommended drilling parameters. Decide on the coolant. If this is not available, you can use vegetable oil (olive or sunflower), lard, or an emulsion of laundry soap in water.
Source: https://ssk2121.com/sverlenie-nerzhaveyki-v-domashnih-usloviyah/
All about Epiphany water: when to collect it, how to drink it correctly and what not to do
The water that was blessed on the feast of the Epiphany is called the “great agiasma.” It is considered a shrine. Believers carefully preserve it and drink it little by little throughout the year. The main thing you need to know about Epiphany water is in the material altapress.ru.
December 19, 2019 in Barnaul. Baptism.
Anna Zaikova.
The water consecrated for the Epiphany is called “Epiphany” or “Epiphany.” In Orthodox churches, water is blessed on Christmas Eve and Epiphany, that is, January 18 and 19.
The “Great Agiasma” is carefully preserved and drunk little by little throughout the year. It is believed that it has special properties: it does not spoil for a long time and helps relieve ailments. However, the church warns that Epiphany water should not be taken as a medicine.
Epiphany water must be drunk with prayer and reverence. You can also sprinkle your apartment with Epiphany water. At the same time, they usually sing a special prayer - the troparion of the Baptism of the Lord.
December 19, 2019 in Barnaul. Baptism.
Anna Zaikova.
How to drink Epiphany water correctly
You can drink holy water on Epiphany and Christmas Eve all day long. And on ordinary days they traditionally drink it little by little: in the morning, on an empty stomach and with prayer.
But fasting is not a prerequisite. The main thing is to take holy water with reverence and prayer. Epiphany water can also be diluted, and it will not lose its properties.
Is it true that swimming in an ice hole at Epiphany washes away sins?
No, according to church canons, swimming in an ice font does not cleanse a person from sins. And it doesn’t affect how many times a person dives or crosses himself.
Swimming in an ice hole at Epiphany is a folk custom, not a church rite. According to Orthodox teaching, only sincere repentance in the sacrament of confession cleanses the soul from sins.
Baptism in Barnaul on January 19, 2019.
Anna Zaikova.
What not to do with Epiphany water
You cannot wash the floor with holy water, take a bath, add it to tea, give it to pets to drink, etc.
In addition, holy water cannot wash away damage and the evil eye, because from the point of view of the church, the evil eye and damage do not exist.
It is important to know that the Orthodox Church has a negative attitude towards occult and magical practices, fortune telling, love spells and other similar practices.
Source: https://altapress.ru/zhizn/story/vse-o-kreshchenskoy-vode-kogda-nabirat-kak-pravilno-pit-i-chto-nelzya-delat-260836
Sharpening a drill for stainless steel – Machine tools, welding, metalworking
It does not require special proof that the drill during operation loses the sharpness of the cutting part, that is, simply put, it becomes dull. A dull drill isn't a problem until it's needed.
Then it suddenly turns out that it is impossible to work with a worn or dull drill. We can only regret that the geometry and size of the drill were not restored in time.
This article will tell you how to sharpen a twist drill and a hard-tipped drill bit for drilling concrete.
You don’t have to worry about sharpening a wood drill; you can work with such a drill for many months and even years without any sharpening. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said about a metal drill, which must be sharp. That is, you can drill metal only with a sharp, well-sharpened drill.
Loss of drill sharpness is characterized by a sharp creak at the beginning of drilling. A drill that is not sharpened in time generates more heat and thus wears out even faster than a sharp one.
You can sharpen a drill on special machines or using devices. Naturally, if possible, it is preferable to do this on special equipment. But in a home workshop, as a rule, there are no such machines, so you have to use a regular electric sharpening machine with a stone.
Main components of a twist drill.
So, let's look at how to sharpen a drill for metal? The type of sharpening depends on the shape that should be given to the back surface of the drill and can be single-plane, two-plane, conical, cylindrical and helical.
The drill is sharpened along the back edges. Both teeth (feathers) of the drill should be sharpened exactly the same. It's not easy to do this manually. It is also not easy to manually maintain the desired shape of the back edge and the desired back angle.
1. Single-plane drill sharpening is characterized by the fact that the back surface of the pen is made in the form of a single plane. The rear angle ranges from 28-30°.
The drill is simply attached to the circle, so that the cutting part runs parallel to the circle and sharpening is carried out without rotating or moving the drill.
With such sharpening, the cutting edges of the drill may become chipped during drilling, which is a disadvantage of this sharpening method. This is the easiest method of manual sharpening, which can be used for a thin drill with a diameter of up to 3 mm.
2. Drills with a diameter of more than 3 mm are preferably sharpened conically. It is difficult to perform such sharpening manually without skills, but it is possible. The drill is taken with the left hand by the working part as close as possible to the fence cone, and with the right hand by the tail.
The drill is pressed against the end of the grinding stone by the cutting edge and the back surface, and is slightly rocked with the right hand, creating a conical surface on the back feather edge. During sharpening, the drill does not come off the stone, hand movements are slow and smooth.
For the second pen everything is repeated in the same way.
Move the drill with its cutting edge to the grinding wheel.
We swing the drill down and then up again.
When sharpening, you should try to maintain the original shape of the factory surface of the rear part as much as possible in order to maintain the desired rear angles. If sharpening is done correctly, then it is quite sufficient for drills with a diameter of up to 10 mm. For diameters above 10 mm, this sharpening can be improved by sharpening the front surface, as shown in the photo:
Front surface point.
What is the point of a point? By reducing the rake angle and increasing the cutting edge angle, chipping resistance increases, which increases drill life. In addition, the width of the transverse edge becomes smaller. The transverse edge does not drill, but scrapes the metal in the central part of the hole. The second picture clearly shows that here it is shortened, which makes drilling easier.
For drills with a selected small clearance angle, you can further sharpen the flank. In this case, the drill rubs less in the drill hole with its back surface. See photo:
Rear surface undercut.
In production conditions, after sharpening, as a rule, finishing is done, which smoothes the surface, removing small nicks. A drill that has been fine-tuned wears out less than a simply sharpened drill. If possible, fine-tuning should be done.
For finishing, you need to use grinding round stones made of green silicon carbide (grade 63C, grit 5-6, hardness M3-SM1) on a bakelite bond, as well as wheels made of CBN LO (grit 6-8) on a bakelite bond.
Below we present to your attention an excellent selection of training videos by watching which you will definitely be able to sharpen your drills.
How to sharpen a tipped pobedite drill bit
A pobedite drill bit can also become dull. A dull drill overheats during operation, drills poorly and makes a loud squealing sound. Of course, you can change the drill by buying a new one, but it’s better to save money and sharpen it yourself.
To do this you will need a sharpening machine (electric sharpener) with a diamond stone and coolant. An ordinary emery stone is not suitable for sharpening a Pobedit drill. Before you start sharpening, make sure that it is possible in principle. To do this, measure the height of the cutting part of the drill.
When the height of the cutting part of the drill, i.e. soldering, is about 10 mm, sharpening is possible.
Don’t forget: the harder the material, the lower the sharpening speed should be. The angular speed (the number of rotations of the stone) when sharpening a pobedit drill should be reduced, regardless of which tool is used for sharpening.
It is recommended to sharpen tipped drills in the same way as simple small-diameter drills, i.e. The back surface should be sharpened flat. In this case, the back surface should be sharpened as shown in the photo, grinding the drill down to the soldering point:
Sharpened drill bit with soldering.
It is advisable to sharpen the front surface. If the soldering has already been ground down to the very drill, then it is simply impossible to do without sharpening, since the soft metal extends to the cutting edge from the front surface. The front surface is simultaneously ground down so that the thickness of the soldering center becomes smaller.
Solder point on the front surface.
When sharpening the drill, try to be precise and carefully ensure that its cutting sides are the same size. If this cannot be achieved, then the offset center of the spine will certainly result in the drill hole being enlarged and uneven.
Regardless of the device on which sharpening is performed, it is necessary to control the ratio of the front and rear angles of the cutting edge in the direction of rotation. Another rule that should be followed in order to properly sharpen a drill for concrete: the harder the material, the greater the sharpening angle.
For victory it is 170 degrees.
During the sharpening process, the drill must not be allowed to heat up, because Cracks may appear and the carbide plates may peel off. In order to prevent this, you should periodically cool the drill with liquid. You can use regular water for cooling.
We invite you to watch a selection of videos on sharpening drills with pobedite tips.
: Sharpening drill bits for hammer drills. Part 2
Source: https://stanki-info.com/zatochka-sverla-pod-nerzhaveyku/
Which tomato seeds should be prepared for sowing and which ones should not, and how to do it correctly
When preparing seeds for sowing, gardeners use various methods, from disinfection to hardening, but this is not always necessary. Which seeds require preparation, and which need to be sown without preliminary manipulation?
Seeds of tomato varieties that you have collected from your own plants, or also received from neighbors, friends, or from gardeners who sell seeds of amateur varieties, must be checked and processed before sowing.
Seeds are of different quality, unfulfilled, unripe, if they were collected from unripe fruits. Fully ripened seeds have a high germination rate.
Harvested seeds could be stored in unsuitable conditions; sometimes they carry infection on the shell or inside the seed, causing pathogens of various diseases.
You can prevent losses and get good seedlings if you pre-sort the seeds, check germination, carry out disinfection and, if necessary, stimulate germination.
Do not carry out all the proposed operations at once, do only the necessary minimum. Even the most viable seeds will not withstand all pre-sowing procedures, and this is not necessary; high-quality seeds will sprout without any tricks. One disinfection or growth stimulation is enough.
Sorted by density and size
You can select the best seeds by appearance; they will be the largest, well-made, without visible defects. It is easy to sort empty seeds in a 3-5% saline solution. Dissolve 30-50 g of table salt in 1 liter of water, immerse the seeds in the solution, stir and let stand for a few minutes. Drain the floating seeds along with the water; they are unsuitable for sowing. Rinse the seeds remaining at the bottom with clean water and dry.
At the same time, separate the seeds into fractions if they differ in size. The largest seeds will give more vigorous shoots. Small seeds may be quite viable, but will be slightly behind in development; it is better to sow them separately.
Determination of seed germination
The germination of tomato seeds lasts for 4-5 years. If you are not sure that the seeds are fresh, then it is worth checking their germination. Take a dozen seeds for testing and place them in a damp cloth for germination. It is best to germinate in a closed container so that the water does not evaporate. According to the rules, germination energy is first determined - the ability of seeds to produce vigorous shoots.
For tomatoes, this indicator is calculated on the 6th day. On the 10th day, germination is determined - the ability of seeds to form full-fledged seedlings. If most of the seeds have sprouted, the entire batch can be used. Of course, germination in the soil will be somewhat less, but in any case you will understand whether the seeds are suitable for sowing.
Seed disinfection
It is advisable to disinfect your own seeds and seeds obtained from other sources that are of suspicious quality. Many plant diseases are transmitted through seeds; disinfection will help reduce infestation and increase plant resistance to disease.
The simplest and most effective way of dry disinfection is to warm the seeds in sunlight for 2-3 days, but in late winter conditions in the middle zone this is difficult. Wet disinfection methods involve soaking tomato seeds in various solutions. Use only one type of treatment for diseases.
The most popular among gardeners is potassium permanganate, or potassium permanganate. This drug acts on a wide range of pathogens, but only works on the surface of the seeds. If the infection is contained within the seed, as happens with viral diseases, then potassium permanganate will not be effective. The tomato is treated with a 1% solution for 30 minutes.
Measuring 1 g of crystals at home is not easy, but there is a convenient way. It is believed that 1 teaspoon (5 ml) without top contains 6 g of potassium permanganate. Pour the crystals into a spoon, remove excess with the flat side of a knife, dissolve in 600 ml of water. Immerse the seeds in the solution so that they do not stick together and are moistened on all sides.
After 30 minutes, rinse the seeds with clean water and dry.
Hydrogen peroxide is available in every home medicine cabinet; a 2-3% solution is also suitable for disinfecting seeds. Heat the solution to a temperature of 38-45°C and immerse the seeds in it for 5-8 minutes, rinse with clean water and dry.
Mustard is used to disinfect seeds in various ways. Immerse the seeds in a 1.5% solution of mustard powder for 6 hours, then rinse thoroughly and spread in a thin layer to dry.
Grind 10 g of powder in 20 ml of warm water, place the pulp in a 2-3 liter container. Place the tomato seeds in a gauze bag and hang them over a layer of mustard at a height of 10-15 cm. Close the container tightly with a lid and leave the seeds over the mustard steam for 30 minutes, and then spread them out in a thin layer for ventilation for 2-3 hours.
Biologically active aloe juice helps resist bacterial diseases and is a good natural stimulant. First, pick the aloe leaves and put them in the refrigerator for 5-7 days, then squeeze out the juice and dilute it with water (1:1). Immerse tomato seeds in the solution for 1 day and then dry.
Heat treatment can eliminate a viral infection if you suspect one. At home, it is not always possible to accurately maintain the temperature, so resort to this method as a last resort. The following procedures are recommended for tomato seeds. First, the seeds are kept for 24 to 38 hours at a temperature of 30-40°C, then 48 hours at 50-55°C, and 24 hours at 78-80°C.
Bubbling seeds
Bubbling is the saturation of seeds with oxygen or air in water; this operation activates the work of enzymes in the seeds, while changes occur in the composition of reserve substances and germination increases. In addition, harmful microorganisms are washed off from the surface of the seeds. For bubbling you will need a container of water, a funnel with a fine sieve and an aquarium compressor.
Connect the funnel to the compressor hose, pour the seeds into it, place it in water at a temperature of 20°C, not reaching the edges, but so that the seeds are in the water. You can simply put the seeds in a gauze bag and immerse them in water. Connect the compressor and blow air through the hose. It is recommended to process tomato seeds for 12-16 hours. Monitor the condition of the seeds; if they begin to hatch earlier, stop processing.
After bubbling, dry the seeds; they can be stored for some time before sowing.
Hardening of seeds
It is recommended to harden heat-loving crops so that they can better adapt to unfavorable growing conditions; this technique is usually recommended for cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, eggplant, and pepper. You can also harden tomato seeds, although modern varieties and hybrids withstand stressful conditions well.
Place the seeds in a damp cloth or immerse in water until they swell. Then maintain an alternating regime for 7-10 days: keep in the snow or in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to 5°C for 18 hours and at 15-18°C for 6 hours.
Then the hardened seeds can be kept in a dry room at a temperature of 8-10°C or sown immediately.
Enrichment of seeds with fertilizers
Solutions of mineral and organic fertilizers, in addition to enriching them with nutrients, increase plant resistance to disease. Make a solution of 10 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium nitrate and 0.2 g of manganese sulfate per 1 liter of water and soak the seeds for 12 hours and then dry.
It is useful to treat the seeds in a solution of humic fertilizers, this stimulates germination.
Dilute 50 ml of liquid fertilizer in 1 liter of water and soak the seeds for 24 hours before sowing. You can use ready-made mixtures of microfertilizers for pre-sowing treatment of seeds or take an infusion of wood ash. Dilute ash (20 g) in 1 liter of water, leave for 1-2 days, strain and place tomato seeds in the infusion for 4-6 hours.
Treatment with growth stimulants
Growers can choose any growth regulator available that is designed for seed treatment. Use the product strictly according to the instructions. For example, the drug Zircon increases germination and survival rate of plants, and increases resistance to disease. Take 0.025 ml of the drug, dilute it in 100 ml of water and soak the seeds for 2-4 hours before sowing.
Which seeds do not need to be processed?
Large breeding and seed companies carefully control the quality of their seeds, including their disinfection. Usually the seeds are treated dry, mixing them with fungicide powder.
Seeds treated with pesticides are covered with bright paint, atypical for this plant - orange, turquoise, green, red. The packages must indicate that the seeds have been processed. Such seeds are called encrusted.
A special film protects seeds from diseases, mechanical damage, and stressful conditions.
The seeds are completely ready for sowing; they cannot be subjected to additional influences.
Sow them only when they are dry, but in moist soil and then water regularly. Plasma seeds can be found on sale; they are processed on special equipment under conditions of a high-frequency plasma discharge under reduced pressure. The method increases seed germination, and seedlings become disease resistant. Such seeds should also not be further processed before sowing.
Pelleting of seeds is a useful procedure that involves enveloping them in a mixture of peat, adhesives and nutrients. Beneficial microorganisms, pesticides, and growth stimulants are added to the mixture.
Usually small seeds (carrots, lettuce and others) are subjected to this treatment, but if you purchased coated tomato seeds, then you do not need to treat them with anything else or soak them before sowing.
Sow them dry in soil abundantly moistened with water, and do not forget to water regularly until shoots appear.
Determine whether the tomato seeds need special preparation, choose a method if necessary, but do not overdo it, unnecessary processing will only do harm. High-quality seeds from a trusted manufacturer usually germinate without problems.
Source: https://www.ogorod.ru/ru/ogorod/tomats/15932/Kakie-semena-tomata-nado-gotovit-k-posevu-a-kakie-net-i-kak-eto-delat-pravilno. htm
