How to solder stainless steel with tin at home

How to solder stainless steel to stainless steel? How to solder with a soldering iron with rosin and tin

How to solder stainless steel to stainless steel using tin and rosin? This is a very labor-intensive process, for which you need to know all the subtleties and tricks of soldering work. If you follow the instructions discussed in this article, you will be able to make a reliable connection of stainless steel products.

Process Features

For work with food containers, you can only use lead-free solders (for example, tin and alloys based on it). Soldering stainless steel products is a complex process that requires some knowledge and skills to perform.

The best solder for working with the mentioned metal is tin. Thanks to this material, it will be possible to make a high-quality connection. However, tin is more often used for soldering when small parts need to be attached or small cracks need to be repaired.

Solder is sold in coils or in the form of bars 2–4 mm thick.

In industry, soldering using tin is rarely used. And at home, to repair household items (for example, a stainless steel kettle), they use a soldering iron or a gas burner, as well as the mentioned solder. In this case, the main thing is to prepare the necessary consumables (consumables). But we should not forget: during soldering work, hot objects and toxic substances will be used, so you must follow safety rules.

Why do you need flux?

This substance will ensure uniform spreading of solder over the surface of the soldering zone and create conditions for high-quality adhesion of the material to the metal coating. Fluxes are currently classified according to the degree of impact on the following varieties:

1. Inactive (neutral), which do not contain acids. In addition, they almost do not conduct electricity.
2. Active (acid) fluxes.
3. Protective (anti-corrosion), the purpose of which is to protect the soldering zone of the finished joint from corrosion and destruction.

If the question arises why flux is needed for soldering, then the answer can be this: this substance is necessary to comply with the technology, since it will definitely be needed during soldering work. However, the method of application of the composition depends on its initial state:

• if the flux is in a solid state, the soldering iron tip must first be dipped into the reagent, and then grab a little solder with it;
• the finished liquid mixture will have to be applied to the soldering area using a brush;
• The surface should be treated with a paste-like substance using a regular stick.

In addition, flux is sometimes sold in special tubes.

Necessary equipment

Before you begin repairing the product, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

• A simple soldering iron (minimum power - 100 W) or a propane torch.
• Organic solvent (for example, white spirit or acetone).
• Tin solder.
• Rosin or phosphoric acid.
• Steel rope.
• Metal brush, file or sandpaper.
• Clean cloth for wiping.

However, before soldering stainless steel to stainless steel and, accordingly, repairing the part, you should purchase protective equipment: polyurethane gloves, goggles and a respirator.

In addition, to connect large products, a more powerful soldering iron may be required, the tip of which must be fireproof: this will not only increase the service life, but also improve the technical parameters of the tool.

Regarding solder, it should also be said that tin bars are suitable for soldering food utensils or other containers, since they contain fewer harmful impurities.

When the materials and tools are prepared, you can begin this operation. To solder stainless steel at home, you need to follow these step-by-step instructions:

1. Use sandpaper or a brush to remove oxide film and other contaminants from the metal surface.
2. Degrease the part to be repaired with solvent.
3. Apply flux - rosin or soldering acid - to the surface to be treated. This step does not need to be performed if a combined tin solder is used, which already contains the mentioned substance. Flux must be applied immediately before soldering, since a film forms on the surface of the stainless steel after about 10 seconds.
4. Heat the soldering area on which the flux is applied with a tinned soldering iron tip.
5. Add solder if necessary, but most likely you won’t be able to cover the entire surface with tin the first time.
6. Reapply flux and heat it again with a soldering iron. Repeat this process until the surface of the metal is covered with an even layer of tin. The main thing is that the solder melts not from the tip of the soldering iron, but from the heat stored in the part. In addition, to make the soldering of stainless steel with tin better, you need to add rosin to the joints, which will remove oxides from the solder.
7. Wash the product from flux residues. To complete this step, you need to prepare a solution consisting of water and detergent and buy metal scrapers. The remains of rosin, according to the masters, can be easily cleaned with cold water, since the substance becomes brittle in it.

Soldering is considered high quality if the result is a uniform surface. But in any case, at the end the coating must be sanded with sandpaper or a file.

How to join stainless steel parts: optimal technique

First you need to equip your workplace. The table must be steel or have a non-flammable surface. The main thing is that it is even. In addition, you need to make high-quality exhaust ventilation. In turn, in order to solder several products into one at home, you need to cover their parts with tin and fix them together. The next step is to heat the parts at the same time so that the hot solder bonds. You will probably have to add tin to the soldering area by placing it on the soldering iron tip.

After this, you need to warm up the entire surface and, if the solder is applied well, you need to place the parts on a flat surface. A stainless steel product assembled from two or more parts must not be moved until the joints have completely hardened. It is better to secure the soldered parts with fastening devices (for example, clamps or a vice).

Soldering with a gas torch: repairing a kettle

First, you need to thoroughly clean the soldering area with sandpaper and remove scale near the damaged area. To solder a stainless steel kettle with a gas burner, you need to follow these instructions:

1. Heat the connection with a flame, smoothly moving the device. The heating will be sufficient when the solder begins to melt upon touching the metal.
2. Apply flux (rosin or phosphoric acid) to the soldering area.
3. Apply tin to the damaged area, while continuing to heat the area with the burner so that the substance melts and fills the entire defective area.
4. Sand the seam with a metal brush.
5. Wipe the sealed area with alcohol to clean its surface from scale and oxides.

During soldering work, you need to monitor the oxygen level. To determine this parameter, you need to look at the flame, the normal shade of which is blue. In an oversaturated composition, the color will be pale, which indicates an excess of oxygen. If you ignore this requirement, there is a high probability that the stainless steel will begin to oxidize.

Advantages of soldering stainless steel with tin

The advantages of this method include the following properties:

• consumables are inexpensive;
• no lengthy preparation of the part is required;
• simple soldering work for small-sized products;
• tin solder reduces the fluidity of stainless steel during soldering;
• good connection quality.

Flaws

In addition to the undeniable advantages, soldering stainless steel with tin solder also has some disadvantages:

• difficulty in sealing seams on inclined and vertical planes caused by the high fluidity of tin;
• insufficient strength of permanent connections for large structures;
• reduction in the permissible temperature range of soldered parts due to the fact that the tin will simply melt if the material is exposed to temperatures above 231.9 °C.

Naturally, without a good soldering iron and flux, you won’t be able to make a reliable connection. However, before soldering stainless steel, you need to consider other points:

1. It is advisable to buy a soldering iron with a tip that does not burn: the service life of such a tool is longer than that of a conventional device. However, it must be constantly descaled and sharpened. In addition, it is recommended to use a soldering iron with constant heating: this will save energy.
2. Soldering stainless steel without flux is a bad idea, since an oxide film will constantly appear.
3. Inexperienced craftsmen should practice a little on unnecessary parts and scraps. You need to remember: a reliable connection is difficult to tear off, and you can check its quality using a screwdriver or an awl.
4. A part treated with a solvent should only be touched with gloves, since a small stain left on the surface can ruin the entire work.
5. Before soldering stainless steel to stainless steel, you need to provide the room with good ventilation. In addition, do not touch heated metal or solder with your hands, or inhale toxic fumes.
6. Containers with substances must be immediately closed with a tight lid after use.
7. The finished part must be cleaned of flux and soldering compound. Food containers are treated with soapy water and boiled to neutralize aggressive acids.

Basic mistakes

If, taking into account the recommendations, it is still not possible to make a high-quality connection, then such a failure may occur due to:

• poor metal stripping and poor degreasing;
• insufficient heating of the stainless steel;
• incorrectly selected solder or flux;
• the fact that the soldered part was subjected to mechanical stress too early, since the product did not have time to harden.

Conclusion

The article discussed how to solder stainless steel to stainless steel. To perform the work described, you need to purchase the necessary equipment and devices. During soldering work, the main thing is to make high-quality seams that will provide the parts with a reliable connection. Additionally, with the information in this article, anyone can repair small stainless steel items themselves using a soldering iron, tin solder, and flux.

Source: https://FB.ru/article/465872/kak-pripayat-nerjaveyku-k-nerjaveyke-kak-payat-payalnikom-s-kanifolyu-i-olovom

Soldering stainless steel at home - Metalworker's Guide

Sometimes brazing stainless steel is preferable to welding. Soldering is used for thin-walled products that are not subject to heavy loads, and in cases where they do not want to experience warping from heating.

It should be taken into account that some types of stainless steel require a certain approach, taking into account their composition and manufacturing technology. For example, cold-worked stainless alloys crack at high temperatures, so their soldering is carried out without loads, after first annealing the metal. There are other subtleties.

Features of alloys

Stainless steel cannot be soldered with aluminum and magnesium alloys. With other metals the process goes well, while the joint itself is characterized by increased strength.

Some stainless steel alloys, especially those containing more than 25% nickel, begin to release carbides at temperatures of +500-700 ℃. These chemical compounds reduce the corrosion resistance of the metal.

And the longer the soldering process at this temperature, the more intense the carbides are released. Therefore, soldering time must be reduced. Soldering at home is carried out with a soldering iron or a gas torch, and a soldering iron is used more often.

Solder selection

There are two factors influencing the choice of solder for stainless steel:

• the conditions under which the connection process is carried out;
• stainless steel composition.

If you have to work under normal conditions (in any room), then it is better to solder with silver solder, which contains a small amount of nickel.

When carrying out the soldering process in a furnace, that is, in the complete absence of humidity, copper, silver-manganese or chromium-nickel solders are used.

It should be noted that silver-based hard solders are the best option for soldering stainless steel parts.

After all, silver is also resistant to corrosion and has the same light color as stainless steel. But it should be noted that pure silver is not used in solders.

Zinc or copper is added to the alloy. The higher the percentage of silver, the higher the quality of the alloy. True, such material will have to be used at higher temperatures. Tin solders are rarely used when high strength is not required.

Table 1. Composition and properties of silver solders

Solder test	components, %	Temperature, °C
Silver	Copper	Zinc	Cadmium	Start of melting	Complete meltdown
PSr-80	80,0	12,4	7,6	—	780	800
PSr-75	75,0	18,6	6,4	—	755	755
PSr-70	70,0	30,0	—	—	770	780
PSr-70	70,0	26,4	3,6	—	745	765
PSr-65	65,0	35,0	—	—	790	810
PSr-65	65,0	20,0	15,0	—	700	720
PSr-60	60,0	24,8	15,2	—	700	720
PSr-50	50,0	50,0	—	—	779	850
PSr-50K	50,0	16,0	16,0	18,0	650	670
PSr-45	45,0	30,0	25,0	—	660	725
PSr-25	25,0	40,0	35,0	—	745	775
PSr-12M	12,0	52,0	36,0	—	780	825
PSr-10	10,0	53,0	37,0	—	815	850

Flux selection

As for flux for soldering stainless steel, the best option here is borax. It can be used in paste or powder form. Borax powder is poured into the soldering zone of two workpieces and heated to a temperature of +850 ℃. This is the so-called light red heat temperature.

Once the flux has melted, solder is added to the area. If you follow the standards, then to work with silver solders, use flux No. 209 or 284 according to GOST, and for solders containing copper and nickel - No. 200 or 201.

Remains of flux after soldering are removed with water (cold or hot) or blown with sand. It is not recommended to use hydrochloric or nitric acid for this. This is a potent material that corrodes the solder layer and the stainless steel itself.

How to solder correctly at home

In order to properly solder two stainless steel workpieces together, you need to properly prepare for the process. To do this, it is better to use orthophosphoric acid or zinc chloride, which is usually called soldering acid, as a flux. A soldering iron needs a power of 100 W. As for solder, it is easier to solder stainless steel with tin at home.

The first stage of the process is to clean the edges of the two stainless steel parts. To do this, use sandpaper or a file with fine notches. Then you need to tinning the prepared edges.

To do this, the planes to be joined are treated with flux, then the solder is heated with a soldering iron, which is applied to the ends of the two workpieces. The solder should remain on the soldering iron tip, and from it should be transferred to the planes that are to be tinned.

If the tin does not stick to the stainless steel, then the procedure must be repeated, preheating the ends of the parts to be connected.

Once tinning has occurred, you can proceed to soldering by adding flux and solder to the joint area. At the end of the process, the acid is washed off with water.

Connection with other metals

The connection of two different metals, for example, the soldering of copper and stainless steel, must be approached from the position of studying their properties. Metals have different melting points, so the soldering process is considered one of the most difficult.

Joining copper and stainless steel at home includes processing the workpieces, tinning the edges and the soldering process itself.

It should be noted that copper and stainless steel can be soldered with a soldering iron or torch. The first tool is low-power, so it cannot work with hard solders.

The soldering iron is also not used for soldering large contact areas due to the length of the process. In addition, the flux will oxidize even before it has time to fully warm up.

A burner is the best option. With its help you can solder not only stainless steel with copper, but also with brass.

By the way, when choosing solder, you need to pay attention to brass rods. It is primarily the most common material for soldering stainless steel and can even be used in a joint without flux.

It should be taken into account that brass is inferior to silver in many respects. But it is cheaper. It should only be used for soldering simple non-critical connections.

The process of soldering copper or brass to stainless steel is no different from others. It is necessary to clean the edges of the two metals, degrease them, and tinning each edge separately.

Next, you need to place two workpieces on the workbench so that there is a gap of no more than 3 mm between them. Flux is applied, heated, and then solder is fed into the soldering zone.

It should melt and spread along the border of the workpieces. As soon as the gap is completely filled, soldering stops. Metals cool naturally. The remaining flux is washed off with water.

Food solders

There are no differences in food soldering technology from standard operations. You cannot use materials and alloys that contain lead, for example, POS (tin-lead). Lead is toxic and there is a trend towards a sharp reduction in its use in soldering operations.

When phosphoric acid is used, the soldering itself must be carried out faster. The thing is that after 10-15 seconds a phosphate film will appear on the surface of the parts being joined.

It will make soldering difficult; you will have to clean the stainless steel again, removing this layer. So it is optimal if the flux is applied right before the operation.

  DIY corrugated stainless steel heat exchanger

Useful tips

Experts who have had the opportunity to solder stainless steel more than once assure that this process is not so complicated. Here are some recommendations from them when using a soldering iron:

• For soldering you need to use a soldering iron with a non-burnable tip;
• The power of the tool varies in the range of 60-100 W, optimally 100. You should not use higher than that, overheating of the workpieces means overheating of the solder, which will begin to boil. Below is also not desirable, because molecular bonds will not form between all the metals that participate in the soldering process;
• It is recommended to clean the tool tip after each operation. Sometimes you have to sharpen it;
• It is better to solder with tin rods or tin-lead rods. The second type is not used for joining food grade stainless steel. Pure tin solder will have to be heated well, at least to the consistency of softened plasticine. In general, the metal must be liquid; it is in this state that it can stick to the steel;
• Phosphoric acid is used as a flux. Rosin, due to its neutrality, is not used for stainless steel;

It is imperative to adhere to safety precautions, especially if soldering is carried out at home. It is necessary to use personal protective equipment, as well as organize ventilation of the room.

As you can see, there are many caveats. But taking them into account, we can talk about the high quality of the final result.

Source: https://ssk2121.com/payka-nerzhaveyuschey-stali-v-domashnih-usloviyah/

Soldering stainless steel at home

Sometimes there is a need to solder a stainless steel product. Before soldering stainless steel at home, you need to familiarize yourself with the technology and the principles of performing the work.

Features of stainless steel soldering

To obtain a permanent connection of parts made of corrosion-resistant steel, filler alloys with lower melting temperatures than those of the base metal being joined are used. The presence of a strong oxide film makes stainless steel more difficult to solder than carbon steel.

To solder directly to stainless steel, it is necessary to use special mixtures with an activation range of 100-375°C to remove surface oxides. These substances are recommended for mechanical connections only.

Due to their corrosive properties they are not recommended for electrical contacts.

If the remaining flux after reflow is not completely removed using warm water with mechanical cleaning, the welds will fail due to potential corrosion during its service life.

Lead filler material is a solder that is made from an alloy of tin and lead, sometimes with other metals. The resulting solder has a lower melting point. Lead is toxic, so more and more craftsmen are trying to use less dangerous substances.

An alternative solution is to use a forming gas consisting of nitrogen and hydrogen. This oxide removal method is used when soldering temperatures may be above 350°C, activating hydrogen and reducing oxides. There is no need to remove any remaining reagent when using this method.

Equipment used

The quality of work depends on the selected materials needed to repair the equipment. The home handyman will need:

1. Sandpaper (coarse).
2. Industrial brush.
3. Flux (soldering paste).
4. Soldering torch (electric soldering iron).
5. Metal rod (filler material).
6. Painting tape.
7. Clean rag.
8. Protective clothing (goggles, gloves, respirator).

Preparation

Thorough cleaning of the surface of the product in the joint area is the key to a strong solder joint. Oil and grease are removed using solvents, and wire brushing or abrasive sanding is used to remove difficult types of contamination.

The rough surface of the abrasive is effective and will improve solder adhesion. It is recommended to carry out repair work immediately after cleaning. If this is not possible, the parts are pre-coated with filler material (tinned). When soldering brass or copper parts, it is necessary to apply a thin layer of tin to the preheated area that connects to the product.

Soldering process

The technological operation consists of joining stainless steel with the help of filler metal, thanks to the adhesion forces between atoms. Parts Connection Guide:

1. Connect the soldering iron and let it heat up.
2. Lightly grind the edges of the metal at the site of the future seam or patch to avoid the appearance of irregularities. The 2 parts should connect without any gaps.
3. Removing sanding dust with a damp cloth.
4. Areas that should not be exposed to solvents are covered with masking tape.
5. Flux is applied to the areas that will accept solder.
6. Place all necessary equipment in the work area. The soldering iron is placed at a safe distance. The solder wire is unwound.
7. Tinning is carried out. A mixture of tin and lead is applied in a thin layer.
8. If it is not possible to coat the product with solder (the mixture rolls off the part), resort to a proven method. A small brush is made from steel wire and tube. Soldering acid is applied immediately before using the brush. Heat the parts with a soldering iron or soldering gun and protect them well with a homemade brush. This procedure is effective because The oxide film is removed without the use of chemical compounds.
9. A thin layer of melted tin is applied.
10. The tin soldering process begins.
11. The soldering iron is held in the joint area, which is filled with filler material.
12. It is difficult to obtain steel at the desired temperature, so you need to carefully monitor the process. Overheated parts become coated with oxides, which reduce the quality of the stainless steel finish.
13. Let it cool.
14. Clean the seams with sandpaper and solvent.

Basic mistakes during soldering

Common mistakes that prevent you from achieving a positive result:

1. Wrong choice of solvents. Aggressive substances are necessary to remove oxide from the prepared surface. Hydrochloric acid based pastes should be avoided as corrosion will make cleaning more difficult.
2. Overheating of the connection point.
3. Dirty soldering iron tip.
4. Non-compliance. The choice of alloy must match the expected service conditions (mechanical load, color matching, food or water contact).
5. Lost time. The paste is removed immediately after work to avoid discoloration and prevent corrosion.
6. The heating temperature does not correspond to melting.
7. Violation of soldered seams. This occurs as a result of movement as the alloy solidifies.
8. Cold rallying. As a result of insufficient heating, cold welds are often characterized by stiffness, roughness and unevenness. This soldering error creates unreliable seams that are susceptible to cracking and failure.

The connection will be strong if you use the appropriate solder and do not skimp on flux.

Precautions

Safety rules for soldering are as follows:

1. Carry out work in a ventilated area.
2. Before soldering, you need to check the condition of the wire to see if there is any damage to the soldering iron body.
3. Do not try to melt the solder with a torch to avoid causing a fire.
4. It is prohibited to operate the burner in close proximity to flammable and flammable materials.
5. Solder containing lead is poisonous, so you need to wear a respirator when working. The soldering iron heats up to 400°C, which may cause burns or fire.
6. Hot metal causes burns, so it should not be brought close to the body.
7. Always return the soldering iron to its stand when not in use.
8. It is worth refusing to use handicraft tools to repair products made of corrosion-resistant steel.
9. The addition of easily burnable components is done last.

Do-it-yourself soldering at home requires experience and compliance with safety measures.

Source: https://electrod.biz/payka/nerzhaveyushhej-stali.html

How to solder stainless steel: technology for brazing stainless steel

Soldering stainless steel is a rather labor-intensive process, but at the same time there are no great difficulties here. Alloys containing up to 25% nickel and chromium are alloyed together quite simply. Moreover, these alloys can create strong bonds with other metals, with the only exceptions being magnesium and aluminum alloys.

But you need to pay attention to the fact that some nickel-plated alloys when heated to a temperature of 500-700 degrees. Carbides can form; their level of release depends on the duration of soldering, so the procedure time must be reduced.

The resulting carbides significantly reduce the corrosion resistance of stainless steel. In order to minimize the precipitation of carbides, titanium is added or additional heat treatment is carried out upon completion of soldering. Under the influence of hot solder (tinol), the cold-hardened stainless material can crack, so soldering occurs after annealing, without using loads during soldering.

The choice of solder for stainless steel depends entirely on the following characteristics: steel composition, soldering conditions. It should be noted that products that are made in corrosive conditions must be soldered using silver tinols, which contain a small amount of nickel in the composition. Copper, silver-manganese, and chromium-nickel solders are used during oven soldering in dry conditions.

is most often used as a flux for processing stainless steel . It is applied to the joint in powder or paste form. When the borax melts, the rest of the metal gradually heats up to a bright red heat (850 degrees). When this temperature is reached, solder is injected into the joint.

Removal of material adhering to the stainless surface upon completion of soldering is done by rinsing the soldered product in water or by sand blowing. Hydrochloric or nitric acid, which can be used in cleaning, are very undesirable at this stage of working with stainless steel, since they, along with the solder, will corrode the base metal.

Soldering stainless steel at home

Perhaps everyone knows that a home handyman is constantly faced with everyday difficulties that he needs to eliminate on his own. But it often happens that you need to do the work associated with processing stainless steel yourself. Therefore, this will require certain skills, abilities and knowledge. You will also need to acquire some materials and tools. Here is a list of everything you need:

• Soldering acid;
• Electric soldering iron 100 Watt;
• Tin solder for joining metals;
• File or sandpaper;
• A tube;
• Metal cable.

Now that you have decided on the soldering tool, you need to know the steps to perform the actions:

• To process stainless steel, you must initially ensure that you have flux and a 100-watt electric soldering iron. You need to know that there is no point in choosing a more powerful soldering iron for processing stainless steel. The flux is ordinary soldering acid. Also, do not forget to always have tin-lead solder on hand.
• When all the necessary tools and materials are ready for soldering, you can begin work. First you need to clean the stainless steel joint: this can be done using sandpaper or a file. Upon completion of cleaning the work areas, it is necessary to apply soldering acid followed by further treatment. If the treatment does not work (the solder does not stick to the surface of the stainless steel), then you need to re-manipulate the soldering acid on a thoroughly heated surface, then perform the treatment again.
• In the case when you made a second attempt, and it was not successful, and the solder lags behind again, then the working surface of the stainless steel needs to be cleaned with a special brush, which you can make your own: you will need a piece of pipe with a cross-section of 5 mm, where you place thin wires pulled from a metal cable . Now, apply acid to the soldering area, and then bring the brush and soldering iron here at the same time. Then start working with two tools. It should be noted that this process is very helpful in removing the oxide film from the surface of stainless steel.
• When the parts have been tinned, begin soldering stainless steel using a soldering iron and flux.

Soldering with a gas torch

The parts are heated using a gas torch or a tin-plated soldering iron tip. When working with the burner, you must ensure that there is not too much oxygen in the flame, because this causes the stainless steel to oxidize. This can be determined by the color of the fire (it should be blue); if the color is pale and the fire is weak, then this indicates an excess of oxygen. To warm up the connection, the burner must be moved smoothly.

By periodically touching the metal with solder, the quality of the temperature achieved is determined. Heating is sufficient when the solder melts not from the flame of the torch, but from touching the metal.

Then solder is immediately applied to the part where the joint needs to be made, while the parts continue to be heated so that the solder, melting, slowly fills the joint completely . If there is not enough liquid solder in some area, it is heated more strongly than other places, and the solder itself flows into it. A clear sign of high-quality soldering is the leakage of excess solder from the joint.

Working with hard solders

Stainless steel soldering works well using flowable, liquid, fluxed solder with a low melting point and high capillary characteristics. This solder is quite elastic and has excellent deoxidation properties, which are very useful when working with stainless steel.

It can also handle brass, copper and some other materials. Soldering with such hard solders is very suitable for stainless steel. Stainless steel does not contain cadmium, and the percentage of silver here is 30%. Processing the material with hard solders gives good results, making it possible to obtain durable and high-quality metal fastening.

HTS528 solder can cope with copper, brass, nickel, bronze, stainless steel, and other metals. Along with other hard solders today, this tinol is the most in demand. The solder looks like a rod treated with red flux. The rod size is about 45 cm , and the weight is 20 g. The melting point is 760 degrees.

How to choose a flux for soldering

Small elements are soldered with adjustable gas-air burners (this method is more suitable for jewelry). Larger parts are best soldered with acetylene. The same applies when choosing a flux for stainless steel, since this metal is very demanding on flux. Flux for stainless steel consists of 10% calcium fluoride, 20% boric acid, 70% borax .

For small stainless steel parts, you can prepare a flux composition that includes 50/50% boric acid and borax. This flux must be diluted in water, then applied to the part; when it dries, the solder will adhere perfectly to the metal surface.

That is, the soldering area is not etched, but only cleaned using sandpaper. Copper does not spread well over the surface of steel, so it is better to use L 63 brass. For better soldering, you can also use silver and brass to make solder from them.

Recommendations from professionals

There are many people who, so to speak, “ate the dog” when working with soldering. And they share personal experience gained in practice, giving useful recommendations:

• It is best to choose a soldering iron with a non-burnable tip.
• An electric soldering iron needs a power of 60-100 watts. The most optimal soldering iron is 100 Watt. A less powerful soldering iron will not be able to heat the metal.
• Phosphoric acid works best as a flux.
• It is advisable to use tin-lead rods as solder. You can also use tin in its pure form. It must be said that it is better to solder utensils with tin, since pure tin does not contain lead.
• When working with soldering, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment.
• Soldering must take place in a well-ventilated and open area.

How to solder copper to stainless steel

Soldering stainless steel is a rather labor-intensive process, but at the same time there are no great difficulties here. Alloys containing up to 25% nickel and chromium are alloyed together quite simply. Moreover, these alloys can create strong bonds with other metals, with the only exceptions being magnesium and aluminum alloys.

But you need to pay attention to the fact that some nickel-plated alloys when heated to a temperature of 500-700 degrees. Carbides can form; their level of release depends on the duration of soldering, so the procedure time must be reduced.

The resulting carbides significantly reduce the corrosion resistance of stainless steel. In order to minimize the precipitation of carbides, titanium is added or additional heat treatment is carried out upon completion of soldering. Under the influence of hot solder (tinol), the cold-hardened stainless material can crack, so soldering occurs after annealing, without using loads during soldering.

The choice of solder for stainless steel depends entirely on the following characteristics: steel composition, soldering conditions. It should be noted that products that are made in corrosive conditions must be soldered using silver tinols, which contain a small amount of nickel in the composition. Copper, silver-manganese, and chromium-nickel solders are used during oven soldering in dry conditions.

is most often used as a flux for processing stainless steel . It is applied to the joint in powder or paste form. When the borax melts, the rest of the metal gradually heats up to a bright red heat (850 degrees). When this temperature is reached, solder is injected into the joint.

Removal of material adhering to the stainless surface upon completion of soldering is done by rinsing the soldered product in water or by sand blowing. Hydrochloric or nitric acid, which can be used in cleaning, are very undesirable at this stage of working with stainless steel, since they, along with the solder, will corrode the base metal.

Flux for soldering stainless steel with tin: how to use it, characteristics, features

Soldering anti-corrosion steel alloys is a rather labor-intensive process. Doing this type of work at home is even more difficult.

In such cases, tin soldering technology is used. Most of its composition is tin, but there are solders containing other metals such as lead.

Tin soldering technology requires adherence to a technical process and special equipment. The working material here is fluxes for stainless steels.

Fluxes are materials that protect metal from oxidation during welding. This article will tell you what types of flux are used for soldering anti-corrosion steel alloys and the technology for flux processing of stainless steel.

general information

Borax is a type of flux used for soldering anti-corrosion steel alloys. A fairly common type, which is produced in the form of powders, pastes or liquids.

When welding yourself, the paste form is more convenient. Powder fluxes require the use of special equipment that supplies particles to the welding zone.

Under the influence of high temperatures, the borax melts, after which it is distributed throughout the metal. Under the influence of molten flux, the surface of the part is heated evenly, and the rate of reaching operating temperatures increases.

This is important when working with stainless steel – a refractory material that takes a long time to heat up. The period of transition to the next stage of processing is determined by the color of the metal surface. When it turns red, solder is introduced into the work.

Flux particles remain on the surface of the part after processing. In order to clean the metal of them, rinsing with water is sufficient. Small parts can be placed under water and shaken slightly.

Sandblasting is also used for cleaning - the technique is complex, labor-intensive, but effective.

Do not wash off flux particles with hydrochloric or nitric acid. Yes, the cleansing will be quick and efficient, but acids can damage metals. They can damage the part and the seam fabric.

Selection methods

There are some criteria for choosing a flux for home welding. Here it is not enough to know the suitable types for stainless steel; you need to take into account the applicability in independent soldering.

For small household soldering, fluxes in the form of a paste or liquid that can be applied to the surface with a brush are suitable. These materials do not require additional equipment. Powder and bulk options are suitable for industrial work.

You also need to familiarize yourself with the composition of the material. After all, if a flux is called “borax”, this does not mean that it is created from pure sodium salt of boric acid. This element takes up about seventy percent of the composition.

In addition to it, it includes boric acid, as well as calcium fluoride. They occupy the remaining thirty percent, but their proportions are not the same. The inclusion of boric acid must exceed the percentage of calcium fluoride.

For small parts that often have to be soldered at home, you can create your own flux. To do this, mix borax and boric acid in a ratio of 50x50. It is not necessary to include calcium fluoride in the mixture.

The prepared components are mixed dry. Only after this is water added. The resulting material is applied to the welding zone of the part.

Stainless steel home soldering technology

Soldering stainless steel alloys at home is rarely used. This is a complex process that requires knowledge of technology and adherence to nuances. However, sometimes such welding is necessary. This requires preparation.

Before you start processing the part, you need to study the technology of soldering stainless steel with submerged arc tin. Find and study educational text, photo, video materials.

This is necessary to avoid mistakes, create a working seam and maintain work safety. This article provides a brief soldering technique, indicating tools and nuances.

Equipment

Any welding job requires special tools. Some of them can be assembled yourself, but for greater safety it is better to use factory-assembled equipment.

• To solder metals, including stainless steel, you need a soldering iron. A model operating at a mains voltage of 220V and a power of 100W or more is suitable.
• For processing before soldering, you will need a brush and flux. For stainless steel, this is borax in paste or liquid form.
• Sandpaper, files or a grinder to clean the welding area.
• Metal solder. To work with stainless steel, tin, pure or with an admixture of lead, is suitable.

You may also need a metal cable and a tube of the same diameter. It is desirable that they are made of steel.

Technology

The technique for tin welding of stainless steel alloys at home and industrially varies. This article is dedicated to home methods.

Any method of metal processing begins with cleaning the working surface. The welding area must be cleaned of rust, dirt, irregularities, and burrs.

This is the basic rule for creating a quality connection. Cleaning is carried out with sandpaper, a grinding machine or a suitable file.

After cleaning the surface, borax is applied. Fluxes in liquid and paste form are applied with a brush in an even, thin layer. This will not only protect the metal from oxidation, but will also increase tinning.

Tinning is the formation of a thin layer of tin or its mixture with lead on the surface of a part. This process is part of the preparation for tin metal welding.

If tinning does not work the first time, the metal is slightly heated and the attempt is repeated again.

It often happens that the second attempt does not bring results. The tin rolls off and does not spread out over the surface in a thin layer. In such cases, a semblance of a simple brush is created from a cable and a tube.

These two parts must be almost equal in diameter so that the cable fits comfortably through the tube. After this, the end of the cable needs to be “ruffled” so that you get something similar to a brush. This tool is used to re-clean the part.

Essentially, a metal brush is used instead of the usual stripping tools. After all, solder often flows off due to insufficient cleaning of the surface, and this brush can sufficiently clean the metal.

After covering the working area with tin, the stainless steel is soldered with submerged arc tin. Solder is applied to the joint with one hand, and the soldering iron is moved with the other. The soldering iron and solder must move evenly so that the connection is formed smoothly and efficiently.

Nuances

Already during the final part of processing you may encounter difficulties. Slow welding speed promotes the formation of carbide compounds in the metal.

They will worsen the reliability of the seam and lead to defects. Therefore, soldering work must be carried out quickly enough, without stops, doubts, or delays.

To increase protection against the formation of carbide compounds in stainless steel, it is worth calcining the metal in a furnace after processing.

How to solder stainless steel with tin at home?

Soldering stainless steel is quite a complex and difficult job. To make a high-quality connection, you need to comply with many conditions - both in the choice of materials and in the soldering modes. It is somewhat easier to solder alloys containing up to 25% Ni or Cr. They can also be soldered to other metals and alloys, with the exception of Al and Mg. DIYers most often use tin solders.

Soldering stainless steel

Solder Types

Solders for stainless steel are divided into two main groups:

Soft ones are the usual compositions based on Pb and Sn grades POS. Sufficient tin content increases ductility and fluidity, allowing it to penetrate into all micro-irregularities of the surface and significantly improving adhesion. In addition, tin is a good deoxidizer, which is especially important when working with stainless alloys. The disadvantage of such soldering compositions is the low strength of the resulting joint.

To obtain stronger solder joints on stainless steel, hard solders are used. They are used both in industrial conditions and in the home workshop. Up to 30% technical silver is added to solid compositions. They are produced in the form of thin rods and are designated by the letters PSR.

Solder HTS – 528

If you need to solder together dissimilar products made from materials such as stainless steel, copper alloys, nickel, cast iron, use the HTS-528 composition. It already contains flux, and the melting point is not less than 750 ° C

Flux preparation

Corrosion-resistant alloys are very sensitive to soldering conditions, so the correct choice of flux for soldering stainless steel is extremely important.

The most widely used flux contains:

• 7 parts technical borax;
• 2 parts boric acid;
• 1 part calcium fluoride.

Making flux at home

For soldering small workpieces, the composition of the flux is simplified - equal parts of borax and boric acid are taken. The mixture is diluted in water and applied to the soldering area. Once it dries, it will provide excellent adhesion to the surface of the alloy.

Before applying flux, it is necessary to thoroughly mechanically treat the soldering area with sandpaper, a wire brush or a needle file.

Advantages of soldering stainless steel with tin

The use of soft tin-based compounds provides the following advantages:

• ease of soldering operations for small objects;
• short preparation;
• availability of soldering materials;
• Sufficient soldering quality for not the most critical parts.

Soldering stainless steel with tin

Soldering with soft tin compounds can be quickly mastered by a home craftsman.

Disadvantages of soldering stainless steel with tin

In addition to the advantages, soldering stainless steel with tin also has disadvantages

• low connection strength;
• lowering the maximum operating temperature of sealed items to the plasticity temperature of tin;
• difficulties during soldering caused by the high fluidity of tin.

Due to its high fluidity, it is difficult to seal seams on vertical and inclined surfaces.

Tin soldering modes

The soldering modes recommended by experienced specialists are as follows:

• Burner temperature: 232-240 °C;
• Soldering iron power 80-120 Watt;
• Warm-up time 5-10 seconds;
• The thickness of the solder bar is 2-4 mm.

It is convenient to control the flame temperature with a pyrometer.

Preparation of equipment and necessary materials

When preparing equipment, it is important to pay attention to the characteristics and design features of the soldering iron. Its power is at least 80-110 watts; weaker devices will not be able to provide sufficient heating of the working area. The sting must be fireproof.

You can work with a soldering iron using soft, low-melting solders - rods made of pure tin or from mixtures like POS. Pure tin will be needed when repairing kitchen utensils and vessels that come into contact with food or drinking water. It does not contain harmful components.

The most suitable flux for such dishes is phosphoric acid.

For hard solders you will have to use a gas torch.

Selection of solder and auxiliary materials

The correct choice of composition allows high-quality soldering of stainless steel parts. Such a connection will be reliable and durable. The most common types of soldering compounds are tin-lead POS grades. For soldering work on stainless steel, experts recommend:

• POS50Kd18 (with the addition of cadmium);
• POS-61;
• POS-40.

Only clean tin should be used to repair items that come into contact with food. Not every flux is suitable for stainless steel.

Solder POS-61 Phosphoric and soldering acids

Commonly used:

• soldering acid;
• orthophosphoric acid ;
• zinc chloride.

It is necessary to apply flux immediately before soldering, so that the oxide film does not have time to re-form.

Interesting: Phosphoric acid is part of Coca-Cola. A good reason to think about whether you should drink it.

Technology of soldering stainless steel with tin

It is very important to carry out the preparatory operations correctly and carefully. Their purpose is to remove oxide film and other contaminants from the surface of the stainless steel that prevent the formation of a strong and durable solder joint.

First, the surface is protected with sandpaper, a wire brush or a file. Next, after removing sawdust and abrasive particles, degreasing is carried out. To do this, take a special degreaser.

It can be successfully replaced by any organic solvent - acetone, white spirit, numbered solvents (646, 657), etc.

Immediately after degreasing, the soldering area is coated with a flux compound. (If flux is included in the solder rod, this step is not performed.)

Now the actual tin soldering begins. First, the soldering area is heated using a soldering iron tip or a gas torch. When soldering with a torch, the oxygen content should be monitored, since if it is in excess, oxidation processes will begin, deteriorating the quality of the connection. When the permissible oxygen concentration is exceeded, the flame acquires a light blue tint.

The principle of soldering stainless steel

The entire soldering area should be heated to the melting temperature of the solder.

Important! The solder should melt not from the tip of a soldering iron or the torch of a gas burner, but from the heat stored in the parts being soldered.

Solder must be supplied to the working area until it begins to appear from the working gaps between the workpieces. This will ensure optimal adhesion.

Soldering stainless steel at home

It often happens that a home handyman needs to repair household utensils and stainless steel dishes. To do this, it is necessary to prepare a certain set of equipment, as well as working and auxiliary materials.

In order to quickly and efficiently repair stainless steel products, you will also need to acquire a certain skill. Therefore, you should not immediately take on the repair of complex or large-sized products.

To get better at “feeling metal and fire,” it’s better to practice on spoons, mugs, or just scraps of stainless steel.

Soldering stainless steel at home

To work, you will need to equip a workplace. The work table must be metal or have a non-flammable coating. Exhaust ventilation must be equipped - both the fumes from the soldering compound and the flux and degreaser are harmful to the respiratory system. The parts to be soldered must be securely fastened with inventory fastening devices - vices, clamps, clamps, spacers.

The work area should not be cluttered; only parts to be soldered may be contained in it.

Containers with working fluids should be tightly closed immediately after use and stored in a cabinet or bedside table.

It is necessary to carefully follow the technology for performing the work. If the processing is carried out poorly and the solder does not stick to the surface of the parts, it is necessary to stop soldering and repeat mechanical processing and degreasing. After degreasing, you can handle parts only with thick gloves - even a small sweat stain left by your fingers can ruin the work.

You can make your own wire brush for stripping. To do this, wires obtained from a piece of metal cable must be tightly inserted into a piece of pipe with a diameter of 5-10 millimeters and a length of about 10 cm.

  DIY stainless steel products

They should protrude from the tube by a few millimeters.

For small soldering areas of stainless steel, and especially in narrow and hard-to-reach places, such a homemade product is much more convenient and effective than purchased brushes with a wooden handle.

This brush can be used to work in close proximity to a soldering iron or burner flame, minimizing the time between stripping and the start of soldering.

Common Mistakes

The most common mistake when soldering stainless steel is

• poor cleaning;
• insufficient defatting;
• insufficient heating of the parts, as a result of which the solder did not penetrate into all the gaps and did not connect them.

It is necessary to periodically clean the soldering iron tip.

Do not solder with compounds containing high lead content or use rosin.

You can check the quality of the connection by trying to pick it with an awl or screwdriver. A reliable connection can only be scratched; it will not be possible to peel off the solder from the stainless steel.

Cleaning stainless steel after soldering

After the soldering has cooled, clean off any remaining soldering compound and flux. Stainless steel food utensils should be washed with warm soapy water and boiled before use.

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DIY flux for soldering stainless steel with tin

Soldering stainless steel is a very labor-intensive process. By following the soldering technology and taking into account all the features, this procedure is greatly simplified.

Stainless steel metals such as nickel and chromium with a metal content of no more than 25% are relatively easy to process. Such materials make it possible to obtain high quality soldered joints even from dissimilar metal parts with the exception of aluminum and magnesium alloys.

The most technologically simple processes include soldering stainless steel with tin.

Features of soldering stainless steel

The use of tin solders is excellent for soldering small items, as well as repairs at home. Without any problems, you can solder a saucepan, bowl, mug or other household items made of stainless steel at home using a regular electric soldering iron and tin.

For particularly critical solder joints, special grade alloys based on phosphorus and nickel are used. In addition, materials from chromium, nickel, and manganese are widely used. This group is well suited for working in gases containing a mixture of boron trifluoride and argon. In this type of soldering, the solder can be copper in its pure form, which is excellent at wetting the metal, followed by a strong connection.

Before soldering stainless steel, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the technological process, as well as the features of different methods of working with metal .

By watching the corresponding video, you can get detailed information about all the features of the working procedure.

Soldering a variety of products made from food and industrial stainless steel has many nuances that you pay attention to when choosing a soldering method, as well as the consumables required for this.

Types of solder and features of choice

You can solder objects made of stainless steel with your own hands using both soft and hard alloys. Solder for soldering light-alloy stainless steel contains lead and tin and is designated POS. Hard alloys consist of refractory metals.

The presence of tin gives the material high fluidity, as well as good ductility when molten. This is especially convenient when soldering stainless steel elements, since the tin-lead material has an excellent deoxidizing effect. Before soldering stainless steel with tin, the video will demonstrate to beginners all the features of this process.

The strongest connections are obtained using hard alloys. Soldering of stainless steel parts can be done with their help at home as well as in industrial conditions. Often, hard alloys contain technical silver . The value of this silver component can reach up to 30% of the total amount of metals in the alloy. Such carbide rods by the brand PSr.~

It is good to solder stainless steel products, copper, as well as brass, nickel, bronze, cast iron and other metals using HTS-528 alloy. Its surface initially has a reddish-colored flux layer, which makes it easy to solder a variety of objects. It should be taken into account that this rod melts at 760 °C.

Advantages and disadvantages of tin soldering

The use of tin materials has its own characteristics during operation. These soft alloys have some advantages that make the soldering process easier:

• ease and speed of repair of small-sized products,
• no lengthy preparatory procedure,
• low price of consumables,
• during processing, the fluidity of stainless steel decreases, which makes work easier,
• high quality connections for many low-impact products.

In addition to the obvious positive qualities, there are also some disadvantages of using tin alloys:

• soldering has low mechanical strength compared to other methods of making permanent connections,
• reduction in the operating temperature of parts due to the presence of tin,
• complications during soldering due to high fluidity.

Technology of work execution

How to solder stainless steel at home? The beginning of the soldering procedure consists of preparing the products. To do this, they are cleaned of dirt and oxide film. Mechanical work is performed with sanding paper or a wheel, or a metal brush.

Before soldering any stainless steel, it is necessary to degrease the area with a solvent, acetone. The next stage consists of applying flux to the area of ​​the object being processed. When using combined type solder, no flux material is used.

  At what temperature does soldering tin melt?

The area to be soldered is heated using an electric soldering iron with a tinned tip or a gas burner. It is necessary to constantly monitor the amount of oxygen in the flame, since its excess will lead to additional oxidation of the metal product. The burning tongue should be bright blue.

By moving the burner smoothly, the entire connected area is heated. To monitor its condition, a solder bar is periodically applied. If it begins to melt, the surface temperature is suitable for processing.

The alloy used is placed in the seam being soldered, gradually filling the joint area with molten metal. To distribute the alloy evenly, you can additionally heat the area. Ensuring good strength of the soldered seam is achieved in the presence of solder, the excess of which will flow out of the joint being processed.

Soldering stainless steel at home is presented in the video, which reveals the features of the process.

To obtain high quality soldering and speed up the process, it is recommended to tin the contact areas in advance. After this, the products are connected by heating until the solder melts.

If re-soldering is necessary, flux is additionally applied and heated using a gas torch or electric soldering iron. This process is carried out until the joint is completely evenly covered with solder.

At the end of the soldering process, the product is cooled and washed well to remove any remaining flux or solder.

soldering of steel sheets can be done using a soldering paste consisting of flux and solder. The processed contact area of ​​one part is covered with this mass, rigidly fixed with another part and heated on both sides.

Before soldering stainless steel at home, take care to follow safety precautions when working with hazardous materials and hot objects. Ensure good ventilation in the area where soldering work is performed and beware of fumes from molten metals.

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