How to sharpen a knife using a water stone
In the recently released film Chef on Wheels, the main character, chef Karl Kasper, teaches his son that a knife belongs to the cook, not the kitchen. Those who cook a lot and often know what he’s talking about: a good knife makes a cook’s life easy and enjoyable, but a bad one can easily ruin any dish, and it’s much easier to cut yourself with a dull knife than with a sharp one.
For me, a “good knife” means a “Japanese knife”: a Santoku knife has served me faithfully for many years. Of course, if you want your knife to serve you for a long time, you need to take care of it, including sharpening it often. And the best tool for sharpening any knife is a water stone.
water stone
Actually, such a stone is called water because before sharpening it is immersed in water. Water, filling the pores of the stone (depending on the grain size, stones are used for various purposes - repairing damage, straightening the cutting edge, sharpening, polishing), serves as a lubricant during the sharpening process.
The grain size of water stone is indicated on a numerical scale. Following the Japanese school of sharpening, stones ranging from #120 to #200 grit are used to shape a cutting edge from scratch, or to repair damage. After these stones and just before you start sharpening, you can use a #600 - #800 stone, but this is not necessary.
Now they sell paired stones with different grain sizes. The #1000 plus #3000 combination is the most versatile set for home sharpening.
For initial processing of the cutting edge, use a #1000-grit stone, and for final sharpening, use a #3000-grit stone.
For further polishing of the cutting edge, #5000 - #8000 stones are used, however, this sharpening stage cannot be called necessary when preparing a kitchen knife. There are also stones with a grain size of #15000 - #30000 (the size of one particle is less than 0.5 micrometers), but let's leave them to the Japanese masters.
How to sharpen?
Submerge the water stones in water and leave them there for about 15 minutes or until they stop producing bubbles. Place the stone on the stand, fix it on the table (if the table surface slips, place a damp cloth).
Before sharpening, the water stone must be soaked in water.
Start sharpening with a coarser stone and, holding the knife with both hands at a fixed angle, drag the plane along the surface of the stone, which forms the cutting edge.
Periodically moisten the stone with water (don’t be alarmed by the “dirt” appearing on its surface - this is an emulsion of abrasive and water that acts as a lubricant when sharpening) and watch the cutting edge: if the burr has stopped forming, and the risks from the previous, rougher stone have been removed , which means it’s time to switch to a smaller stone, or finish sharpening.
It is better to see once than to hear (or, in our case, read) a hundred times, so I have prepared this short video from which you will learn how to sharpen a knife using a water stone.
This is my first experience in video production, so don't judge too harshly.
Questions and answers
What stones do you need to sharpen a kitchen knife?
At home, it is enough to have #1000 and #3000 stones for everyday sharpening. You may also need a rougher stone in case you damage the cutting edge.
To repair damage to the blade, I use a #280 grit stone, which is not used for regular sharpening.
How often should you sharpen your knife?
There is no single correct answer here, it all depends on how often and intensively you use it. As soon as you feel that the wonderful cut of the knife that inspired you immediately after buying it has disappeared somewhere, then you need to sharpen it.
What, besides water stones, is needed for sharpening?
If your knife has a polish or damascus edge, you'll like the idea of covering the blade with painter's tape, leaving just the cutting edge exposed to avoid scratching them. An angle holder may also be helpful to maintain the desired angle as you sharpen.
How to determine the sharpening angle?
There is a universal way: place the knife with the cutting edge on a flat surface and tilt until the plane forming the cutting edge lies completely on the supporting plane. It is enough to try several times, and you will feel this moment; then you just need to maintain the resulting angle. This requires experience, so at first you may find the sharpening angle holder (see above) useful.
What about musat and other sharpening methods?
Musat is usually used for easy editing during work, and its use is justified only for European knives, the hardness of which is lower than that of Japanese ones. Disc and electric sharpeners can be used, but the quality of sharpening cannot be compared with water stones. Thus, sharpening on water stones is preferable to any other type of sharpening, regardless of the type of knife and its manufacturer.
With a sharp knife, it is better to use boards made of wood or plastic
How to keep a knife sharp?
The knife will inevitably become dull during use, but how quickly this happens depends on how exactly you use it. If you want the sharpness of the knife to last as long as possible, do not chop bones with the knife and try not to cut too hard foods (for example, frozen meat). Use a wooden or plastic board - glass boards dull knife blades very much.
I thank Samura specialists for useful advice during the writing of this article.
Source: https://arborio.ru/kak-zatochit-nozh-s-pomoshhyu-vodnogo-kamnya/
How to choose whetstones for sharpening knives
At all times, the main quality of a knife that was most valued was how long it could remain sharp without additional sharpening. But the world does not stand still and is constantly evolving, so humanity has already come a long way from using flat stones to sharpen the first, primitive knives, to today's variety on the market.
Today, the market segment of whetstones for sharpening knives has the maximum variety. The materials, shape and other parameters of the bars make it easy and simple to select a device for proper sharpening. However, this process has its own nuances that require detailed analysis.
Types of whetstones for sharpening knives
Although there is a wide choice of bars, they can be divided into categories according to the material from which they are made. The picture looks like this:
Diamond stones
Diamond stones are considered one of the most popular options. They are inexpensive, practical, and it will not be difficult to find a diamond stone of the required size or grit parameters. If a person has never sharpened a knife with a whetstone before, then a diamond whetstone will suit him because of its ease of use.
However, one should take into account the fact that it is quite easy to ruin the edge of a knife with such a block, but this happens solely due to inexperience. After the blade has been sharpened with a diamond stone, it is also a good idea to further sharpen the knife with a stone of another material to make the blade even sharper.
In addition, diamond bars have a long service life and wear out over a fairly long period of time.
Ceramic stones
Ceramic stone is no less popular type of stone than diamond stone. One of the undeniable advantages of ceramic stone is its wear resistance. The sharpening surface is almost impossible to rub off due to the special properties of the material from which the stone is made. The material for production is ceramic powder, which allows it to be so wear-resistant.
However, experts note one drawback. Although a ceramic whetstone sharpens a knife delicately and efficiently even after years, the process itself takes a fairly long time. In order to sharpen a knife perfectly, you will need a lot of time spent at the whetstone.
A ceramic whetstone is also used to further sharpen a blade to perfect sharpness after sharpening with a whetstone made of another material.
Natural stones - Japanese water stone
Natural whetstones are considered the most expensive among the presented types, and their use for sharpening knives has its own subtleties. Among the bars of natural origin, Japanese water stone stands out especially. Before you start sharpening the blade with a Japanese stone, you should first soak it in water. During the sharpening itself, the stone will also require constant lubrication.
Despite the fact that the quality of sharpening when using whetstones of natural origin is consistently at the highest level that sharpening whetstones can offer, the whetstones themselves have a fairly short service life because they are easily erased.
Natural whetstones require professionalism when sharpening, so if a person is just starting to learn the art of sharpening a knife, it is better for him to consider other options.
Artificial stones - abrasive bars
Artificial sharpening stones are made from carbides or corundum. Among other types of sharpening stones, they are distinguished by their low cost and availability. It is impossible to sharpen a knife with such a stone to an ideal state of sharpening, but it does its job at a sufficient level. This type of sharpening stone also wears out quite quickly.
Knowledge about the materials from which knife sharpening stones are made is, in any case, not enough to make an informed choice. There are other parameters to consider that should guide your selection.
Grain and everything connected with it
In such a matter as sharpening knives, there is a pattern according to which the larger the grain size of the stone, the more it will remove metal from the cutting edge of the knife. Large grits will also leave visible marks on the edge of the knife during the sharpening process.
In general, alternating stones with larger and smaller grits will allow you to sharpen your knife in a more balanced and aesthetic way.
After initially sharpening the blade with a higher grit stone, a lighter grit stone should be used to remove marks and create a smoother edge surface.
Recommendations for sharpening
High-quality sharpening of a knife with a whetstone is an entire art. For this reason, working with a block will require some preliminary preparation. First of all, it is necessary that the surface for sharpening is flat. You can check how flat it is by soaking the block in water and then placing it on a sheet of paper on a flat surface. If roughness is visible on the print, then you need to level the working surface by rubbing one block against another.
The knife to be sharpened should be positioned with the cutting edge facing away from you and moved forward along the working surface. It is important that the knife remains in the same position relative to the block; this feature is the key to successful sharpening. The angle at which the knife should be positioned should be from 15 to 45 degrees. This variability will allow you to achieve the best results. In any case, you need to practice and see how the chosen angle affects sharpening.
For primary sharpening, a stone with a large grain is used. If the blade is as dull as possible, this will give the blade a shape that will later be refined by using a fine-grained whetstone. The key to sharpening knives is practice.
Source: https://tochilka.pro/articles/kak-vybrat-bruski-dlya-zatochki-nozhej/
Sharpening stone for knives: types and their characteristics, rules for sharpening the blade
For a long time, people have been sharpening cutting and piercing tools using natural materials. After this, emery stones with a rough surface of artificial origin, which are mounted on an axis, became popular. Such sharpeners made it possible to quickly and easily sharpen a large number of blades without much effort. The next stage is technological sharpeners with ceramic discs and an electric drive.
These types of devices greatly simplify the work, but they have one obvious drawback. Even at average speeds, significant heating occurs due to the friction of the abrasive structure on the metal surface. If you gape even slightly and press the knife blade harder, the metal alloy will “release.” That is, the blade will become soft and dull faster.
That’s why experienced specialists try not to use mechanical-type sandpaper, but prefer sharpening stones. And modern industry has brought back into use the familiar stones for sharpening blades, only they are made using a special technology.
Sharpening stones are very convenient and easy to use. They can be used even by a person who does not have any knowledge or experience in this field. However, for each material you should use a special sharpening stone.
Now on the market there are many varieties of this type of product, which differ in quality, price, and ease of use.
Novaculite (Arkansas stone)
The birthplace of this material is Arkansas (USA). That's why it got that name. Arkansas stone contains pointed quartz crystals, which are pressed under natural conditions. They are the ones who remove a thin metal layer when sharpening with incredible accuracy.
This type of material is extracted from deposits of which there are not so many. This process is very expensive , which affects the final price of Arkansas stone sharpeners. When working with novoculite, the surface of the material must be moistened with oil or a similar composition.
Japanese water stone
The origin of this natural stone is clear from the name itself. These sharpening stones are softer than Arkansas sharpening stones. They also have a higher sharpening quality, however, they wear out faster . Therefore, this variety has to be constantly brought back to its original state by grinding the surface with sandpaper of greater hardness.
They are used in a slightly moistened state, because only under this condition does a grinding layer form on the surface of the material. Experienced professionals prefer to use this tool, and its price can reach several thousand dollars.
With the development of technology, sharpening stones for knives began to be made in industrial settings. This made it possible to reduce their price, however, their quality level is still not as high as that of natural materials. The only exceptions are artificial stones of the water type.
Artificial bars consist of two materials that are carefully mixed and bonded through high temperatures and pressure. The working particles are crystals of silicon carbite , which have sharp corners, grains of chromium oxide and corundum. These stones are much stronger than steel, and upon contact with a knife, they cut off a thin layer of metal.
Diamond whetstones
Of course, these are not some rectangular diamonds. To grind metal, microcrystals are used that are grown under artificial conditions. And yet the price for such products remains very high. Diamond chips come in poly- and monocrystalline forms. The types differ from each other in the number of working edges.
There are two types of diamond whetstones, which differ in the way the crystals are bonded:
- Galvanic bond . The crystals are glued directly to the surface using a special nickel alloy base. In fact, the crystals are located in a very thin layer on the bar. One of the advantages of this solution is its highest efficiency. You can sharpen the blade in just a few movements. The working surface is also very durable and highly resistant. As for the disadvantages, it should be noted that wear is irreversible.
- Soft ligament . This type of whetstone is produced using the method of ordinary stones for sharpening knives. The only difference is that they use diamond crystals, not corundum.
At first glance, it may seem that even a non-professional can cope with this work. However, practice is much more important than knowledge. A cook with extensive experience can create a sharp razor from a dull knife using an ordinary brick, and a sloppy craftsman will be able to ruin a dagger even with the help of the most expensive and high-quality timber.
- To begin with, the sharpener must be properly prepared. The surface that will be used for work must be smooth and flat. This is easy to check - wet the timber and place it on a sheet of paper on a flat surface. The imprint will allow you to evaluate the level of evenness of the stone. You can smooth out defects using a similar stone by simply rubbing them against each other.
- The surface where the sharpener will be located during operation should not be slippery. Some types of timber are equipped with a special pedestal.
- The knife should be held with the working surface facing you. Using straight-line lunges, we intensively carry out across the edge of the sandpaper. You should not make any longitudinal and/or circular movements.
- The sharpening angle can vary from fifteen to forty-five degrees. The smaller the angle, the sharper the blade.
- Sharpening a knife should be done from the largest grain to the smallest. First you need to come up with a certain shape for the edge, then change the timber and bring the material to ideal condition.
Source: https://tokar.guru/instrumenty/tochilnyy-kamen-dlya-nozhey-opisanie-raznovidnosti-pravila-zatochki.html
Diamond whetstones: how to choose, how to sharpen?
- How do you sharpen your knives?
- I have diamond bars!
- Ah, you probably don’t know that they are not suitable for every knife.
(From a conversation with a blacksmith)
Quickly correct the sharpening of a knife while hunting or fishing, or sharpen the cutting edge on a newly made or completely ruined knife - with the help of a diamond stone you can do this easily and simply. Only two conditions
- You have chosen the right diamond stone for your tasks.
- And he mastered the basic techniques of straightening and sharpening on diamonds.
Let's talk about this. The article will not contain any complex terms and concepts, for example, “deposition of diamond abrasive powder on the steel surface of a bar using an epoxy compound” or “holding diamonds using electrolytically deposited nickel”)). No, I'm not talking about that today.
The purpose of this material is to teach you how to choose a diamond stone to suit your needs and use it if necessary.
And to make our conversation easier, watch the comic video that we specially filmed for this purpose. Yes, this video is about diamond bars.
VIDEO: Diamond bars. The main thing is not to get carried away))
Well, now let's continue. What is a “diamond block”? Typically, this is a plastic or aluminum base on which two metal plates are fixed, on which abrasive diamond grains are planted and held using chemical methods.
Rice. 1 Structure of a double-sided diamond whetstone for sharpening and dressing knives
The great advantage of diamond whetstones is that even a “seasoned” whetstone that has seen dozens of knives remains absolutely flat. “What other advantages do these bars have?” you ask.
Please:
Diamond bars: advantages
- Diamond abrasive grains have sharper edges compared to other abrasives and do not change their shape during operation.
- Diamond stones are not brittle; they will not break under impact, like natural or artificial sharpening stones.
- Sharpening with diamond stones does not require special oil - just lightly moisten it with water.
- The diamond block will not become clogged when sharpening with particles of the knife being processed. To clean the bar, just rinse it in water and wipe dry with a rag or fiber.
- Diamond whetstones grind down steel very quickly. This allows you to preserve the working surface (length) of the bar for a longer time compared to ceramics or natural abrasives.
But don’t rush to run to the store or surf the Internet to buy a diamond stone. These bars have two disadvantages that may be important to you:
Diamond bars: disadvantages
- Effective grinding of knife steel during sharpening on diamond stones can lead to irreparable damage to the blade in inept hands.
- And the second drawback is the “price”. Yes, diamond stones are somewhat expensive compared to natural abrasives, since the technology for producing good (read branded) diamond stones is quite expensive. And prices usually start at 800 rubles (11/02/2016). Have you seen it cheaper? Avoid this block! After 5-10 sharpenings it will be bald - you’ll have to throw it away, but you don’t want that, do you?
We’ll fix your hands now)) – more on that below. And the second drawback, “price,” is more problematic to correct. Everything is in your hands here. Sorry for the pun.
Diamond bars: designation and marking
But first, let's learn how to choose a diamond stone. Have you seen their designation? Look: 2500/2000, 2000/1600, 1600/1250, 1250/1000, 1000/80, 800/630, 630/500, 500/400, 400/351, 315/250, 250/200, 200/160, 160/125, 125/100, 100/80, 80/63, 63/50, 50/40, 40/28, 28/20, 20/14, 14/10, 10/7, 7/5, 5/ 3, 1/0.
Confused? Nothing complicated really. These designations are adopted according to GOST 9206-81 (diamonds) and are divided into:
- 12345 — Diamond bars for repair work associated with intensive metal removal, namely, restoration and change in the shape and profile of the blade and cutting edge.
- 12345 — Diamond bars for removing traces of roughing operations, grinding and basic sharpening work, namely obtaining the specified parameters of the blade and cutting edge.
- 12345 — Diamond bars for removing grinding from the blade surface, finishing sharpening and finishing of cutting tools.
- 12345 — Diamond stones for straightening cutting edges and polishing surfaces.
Now fine? And the marking is deciphered as follows, for example, “125/100” means that on this side of the bar there are diamond grains of at least 100, maximum 125 microns.
Usually, the manufacturer puts a mark on the bars (on both sides), which indicates its grain size. Like this:
Rice. 2 Diamond stone marking
Considering that we are talking about double-sided diamond bars, you understand that one side is intended for rougher sharpening operations, the other for straightening and polishing the cutting edge.
"Cool! One diamond block for two operations! - you exclaim.
Yes, that’s right, “two in one”. As a rule, the greenish side of the bar is rougher, and the brown side is thinner. If there is no marking, you can feel it tactilely with your fingernail, or take a magnifying glass and feel it visually.
Universal diamond stone
Now, listen to the advice of experienced people. A diamond block with one side marked “100/80” and the other “50/40” covers 99% of sharpening operations. Believe me, this bar will be enough!
Do you have little experience in sharpening operations or is there no need to sharpen the cutting edge before planing the hair? Buy this particular block! He will always be with you. Put it in your backpack when going “out into nature”, take it with you when hunting and fishing – a universal diamond whetstone will give sharpness to your knife while cutting up a wild boar carcass, a rich catch, or when slicing food in the kitchen.
Do you make your own knives? Or is sharpening knives your hobby? Use our “Abrasives Table” to select diamond or other stones to suit your needs.
Rice. 3 The table of abrasives will help you navigate when choosing a sharpening material to suit your needs
Download it in high resolution from this link.
How to sharpen with diamond stones?
We have more or less figured out the choice of diamond stone. If anything, write to me by email. I'll help you with advice. Let’s start “editing our hands,” namely, competent sharpening on diamond stones. The rules here are simple and strict. I'll list everything at once:
-
- Before sharpening, wet the diamond stone with water. You can put a drop of detergent on the bar, for example, Fairy (not advertising).
- During the sharpening process, after every 15-20 movements, wash off the resulting emulsion from the block under running water and continue.
- Tired? Decided to have a smoke break? Place the block in a bowl of water for a while.
- When you sharpen a knife, do not hold the block in your hands. It is better to place it on a wooden plank with a slight stop so that the block does not slide on it.
- It is allowed to hold the block in your hand when editing a knife in field conditions. But watch your fingers! Even if your knife becomes dull, it will still be able to cause severe cuts to your fingers.
- When sharpening, try to use the entire surface of the block, rather than sharpening the knife along one edge or in the middle of the block. In this case, the diamond layer on the block will be ground down evenly.
- There is no need to press hard on the knife during the sharpening process - this is perhaps the most important rule! With strong pressure, you will break out abrasive crystals from the surface of the stone, which is not very good. And you can simply ruin an expensive diamond block.
- The last rule is most relevant for a new (newly acquired) diamond stone, which you first have to “break in” or grind in.
- Remember that a new diamond stone will initially remove steel more aggressively, but will begin to lose that aggressiveness with each knife sharpened. This is normal. After sharpening 5-10 knives, the diamond bar will reach its intended condition and will serve and delight you for many years.
Now let's start practicing. I won’t talk about how to initially mark the cutting edge on a newly made knife. A lot has been written about this on various knife forms. And there are special devices. But if you have come to this, then most likely you already understand sharpening with diamond and other stones.
And if you are just learning the basics, then a video on how to correct the sharpening of a knife on a diamond whetstone will be useful for you. Look:
VIDEO: Dressing a knife on a diamond stone
Where to buy double-sided diamond stones?
Source: http://knifehacker.ru/almaznye-bruski-kak-vybrat-kak-tochit/
Water stones for sharpening knives
If you have decided to master high-quality sharpening of knives on Japanese water stones, we can only congratulate you and give you a few simple tips that will help you quickly master this exciting activity. Let's start with the words of our master, who uses water stones every day to quickly and effectively sharpen a wide variety of blades.
Vladimir Sokolovich, sharpening master at the Basselard chain of stores:
“Japanese water stones, if you have at least basic skills, are not difficult to master. The main thing is not to forget to take care of them in a timely manner. When handled correctly, they combine high efficiency and excellent cutting edge quality as a result."
Any knife will benefit from sharpening on a good Japanese stone. Regardless of the origin and quality of the steel. For the needs of the average user, the best choice would be synthetic water stones from companies such as King, Naniwa, Suehiro, Kasumi. It is better that the stone is truly Japanese and has a clear Made in Japan marking.
You can learn basic sharpening skills in the wonderful book by Sergei Mitin, and for those who are already theoretically savvy, we will only remind you that success in sharpening is built on the leisurely practice of simple correct movements. Take your time and be in a good mood: 2-3 half-hour classes, and everything will start to work out. In any case, you can count on informational and moral support by calling our stores from our experienced employees, who are always ready to help.
How to choose a water stone for sharpening a knife
Depending on financial capabilities and intended purpose, a set of water stones can be selected in three main options:
- To maintain high sharpness of already sharpened knives;
- Basic set for sharpening and straightening knives with an undamaged cutting edge;
- A complete set for shaping/repairing, finishing sharpening and polishing/dressing cutting edges.
Let's consider each option in more detail.
Water stones to keep knives sharp
In the first case , you should choose one or a pair of fine-grained stones marked in the range #5000 - #8000 . Such stones wear out little, almost do not remove blade material, and produce a mirror-like cutting edge.
It is hardly worth saving on such a stone, since all the shortcomings of the abrasive material are especially clearly manifested at the final stage of sharpening. Naniwa Superstone series stones will be excellent. They provide a very delicate processing of the cutting edge.
The service life of knives can be extended several times if you regularly sharpen them on fine-grained high-quality stones.
Set of water stones for sharpening and straightening blades
For those who are going to sharpen already dull knives themselves, we can recommend a basic set of stones:
- #1000 grit stone
- #3000 grit stone
- #6000 grit stone.
grit stone is used for initial fine sharpening when the cutting edge is not severely damaged, or when traces of coarser abrasives need to be removed. Stone #1000 can be called basic, because... on it you can already achieve a minimum sufficient sharpness of the knife. This stone is used frequently and wears out at an average speed.
stone is used to begin polishing the cutting edge . If you want to buy only one stone “to try”, then you should take #3000. This stone will make your knife very sharp, but over time you will understand that this sharpness is not enough.
A reasonable completion of the basic set would be #6000 abrasive, which is related to the finishing stones from the previous paragraph.
A set of water stones for a comprehensive approach to knife sharpening
For those who have decided to seriously equip themselves with a small sharpening workshop, the basic set from point 2, supplemented by finishing stones from point 1 and rough “grinding” stones #120 - #600, is necessary.
If you intend to sharpen knives and repair/shape the cutting edge after severe jams and chips, then it is important to have good stones for removing large amounts of metal.
The grinding operation for European-type knives made of not particularly hard steels can be speeded up and made cheaper by replacing rough water stones with diamond ones - more durable and aggressive. For Japanese knives with hard-hardened blades and small sharpening angles, only delicate water stones can be used.
If you want to immediately build aerobatics potential into your set of stones, you should get the #10000 stone. You can even shave straight razors with an abrasive of this grain size.
What size to choose a water stone and how to care for it
The issue of area and thickness of the stones is also important. It is generally accepted that geometrically large stones belong to the “professional” series. This is partly true, because. With regular use, water stones wear out quickly and they must have a significant margin of thickness. By the way, any water stones, due to their susceptibility to wear, require periodic editing using a special device.
Caring for water stones actually consists of properly straightening them into a flat state, chamfering them along the edges to avoid chipping along the edges, washing them, drying them after work, and storing them carefully.
It is also important to have the correct equipment for the workplace - a sufficient area of the table, sufficient lighting, a good base for the stone if it is sold without a stand, and a container for soaking the stones of adequate size.
For home use, you should select the size of the stones depending on how often you will sharpen knives and what sizes of knives are present in your set. The area of the sharpening stones should be commensurate with the size of the blades.
So, if the largest knife in your set has a blade length of 20-26 cm, then stones of size 210x70 mm are logical for sharpening. In turn, for knives no larger than 15 cm, stones 170x50mm as stone are sufficient. The most commonly used stones should be purchased thicker. For example, an excellent option for a long-lasting stone is Naniwa IE-1400.
Finishing stones are rarely thick because... less subject to wear and tear and quite expensive.
What else is worth saying about Japanese water stones? There are a lot of good things, but this is exactly what follows: if you have never been able to quickly sharpen a knife to razor sharpness, water stones are the shortest path to success. If your knife is difficult to sharpen and the steel is too hard, take a water sharpener, it will sharpen everything. If your knife literally becomes dull just by looking at it, buy a modest water gun and everything will change for the better.
Vladimir Sokolovich, sharpening master at the Basselard chain of stores
Source: https://www.knife.ru/reviews/spravka/vodnye-kamni-dlya-zatochki-nozhey/
Stones for sharpening knives: diamond, abrasive, Japanese water, Russian samples, which ones to choose
A knife accompanies a person from early childhood to old age. Each of us knows that most often it is a dull blade that cuts the hand. To do this, the blade just needs to slide off the surface.
In order to avoid this, and also to make the cutting process quick and comfortable, knives are sharpened. But there are many different devices and methods for sharpening knives; it is worth considering them in more detail.
Sharpening: principle and options
Sharpening a blade is the process of removing an edge with an abrasive along the entire length of the blade at a certain angle. The sharpening angle depends on the hardness of the steel and the tasks facing the blade. So for household kitchen and hunting knives the sharpening angle is 3035 degrees, a hunting knife with resistance to dullness is sharpened at 4045.
Blades that require special blade sharpness stand somewhat apart, usually chef knives or knives for professional food processing, in this case the sharpening angle is from 25 degrees.
Separately, it is worth considering the sharpening angles of razors and surgical instruments, since they require blade sharpness. For a straight razor, the sharpening angle is 1415, for a surgical instrument from 12 to 25 degrees.
Knives are sharpened by two methods: manually using abrasive bars or special devices and mechanically using a sharpening machine with a rotating abrasive wheel.
The first option requires skill, but at the same time it is easier to learn and accessible to everyone. Abrasive stones of various types are used for sharpening, the most common are:
- Arkansas, known as novaculitis;
- Japanese water stones;
- diamond bars;
- ceramics.
Each type of stone has its own advantages and disadvantages. These stones will be discussed separately below. To quickly sharpen kitchen knives, sharpeners with fixed or variable fastening of abrasive planes are often used, sharpening in which is carried out by moving the blade between sharpening surfaces.
Mechanical sharpening on a machine is much simpler, less time-consuming, but requires constant temperature control and compliance with safety regulations.
Important! When sharpening on a machine with electrocorundum abrasive, you need to control the temperature of the blade metal; if the blade steel overheats, it can change its physical properties.
Main types of whetstone
In the course of human evolution, materials of natural origin suitable for sharpening knives were identified, although at the beginning of civilization, even ordinary sandstone was trusted to sharpen blades.
Now information on metal processing has been structured and stones with the best abrasive properties have been selected.
Methods for working with them have been invented and developed. In addition, synthetic materials are widely used and often have better properties than their natural counterparts.
Arkansas stones
Novacula is a sharpening stone for a razor. It is a dense siliceous rock made from uniform quartz crystals. Extraction is carried out in quarries; bars made of Arkansas stone have several degrees of grain size, have excellent abrasive ability, but at the same time, due to their dense structure, they require the use of oil when sharpening.
Dry sharpening will clog the pores of the stone with dust and metal, causing the stone to fail. The main disadvantage of these bars is the price and unevenness of production when the blade is sharpened incorrectly.
Japanese water stones
A natural stone originally from Japan, it has a high sharpening ability, but at the same time it is quite difficult to use. Sharpening knives on it is almost a ritual. Unlike novaculite, this abrasive is softer.
Sharpening is done using water. The process itself is quite complicated and takes time. Stones with a grain size from 600 to 30,000 grit are produced in the Japanese JIS classification, while at the same time, 10,000 grit is quite enough for super-finishing the blade.
Therefore, 30,000 is already an excessive grain size for blades for domestic use. Before work, the block itself must be soaked in a container of water, after it has been soaked, it must be removed and a mud mass must be created on its surface using Naguro, the second abrasive stone in the water stone set.
Sharpening is done using this suspension. The abrasive surface wears out quickly and unevenly, for this reason it requires periodic restoration with the help of special bars.
Synthetic stones
Diamond whetstones for sharpening, synthetic materials - electrocorundum, chromium oxide or diamond chips on a silicate or ceramic binder. These stones have a uniform structure, different (depending on the bar) grain size and good performance characteristics.
The cost of such stones is usually low, and the bars themselves are available. Sharpening can be done either “dry”, which is not recommended, or using water or oil.
Ceramics
These materials are used for final finishing of the blade, finishing or super-finishing. The grain size of these materials is small, but at the same time they are quite cheap and will allow you to smooth out scratches from a peeling abrasive or straighten a serrated knife.
The use of liquid is mandatory, since the pores in fired ceramics become clogged very quickly and the surface becomes smooth.
Sharpening stones of various shapes are widespread, from standard whetstones, which are best worked with on a stable plane, to rod sharpening stones, with which the blade can be adjusted on the fly.
One thing remains the same, no matter what kind of bar or what kind of metal, but for high-quality sharpening, a lubricant must be used: water or oil.
Sharpening rules
First you need to prepare all the necessary materials. A sharpening stone, a container of water and a paper towel or a regular sheet of paper. A piece of rag will also come in handy.
You immediately need to decide on the sharpening angle. For example, 35 degrees is the most optimal angle for a kitchen knife or 40 for a sharp hunting knife.
Inspect the stone; if there is a trough or significant wear on it, it should be leveled, otherwise the sharpening will be uneven.
Leveling the stone is done with another stone; some types of stones, such as Japanese stones, come with special ridge stones to restore the surface.
The block is placed on a flat, stable surface; a table is perfect. To minimize slipping, fabric or rubber is placed under it. You can fix it on the table in another convenient way. The surface of the bar is wetted with water or machine oil.
The position of the blade is adjusted using available means, for example, by placing a paper clip on the back of the blade or placing a coin. If the owner of the knife has strong nerves and a sharp eye, then simply holding the knife in the desired position is enough.
The knife is placed at an angle of 40-45 degrees to the center line of the blade, sharpening is done by forward movements of the blade away from you. For high quality sharpening, it is worth doing it in two steps.
First time on a coarse grinding stone. Then, on finishing, fine-grained. During sharpening, it is necessary to periodically wet the surface of the stone. The check after sharpening is carried out visually, by examining the edges of the blade against the light; the sharp part of the blade is uniform along the entire length and should not give glare.
You can also cut a sheet of paper by weight. A sharpened knife cuts smoothly, without snagging or tearing off the paper. The sheet cut is even, without shaggyness or tears. If the edge of the paper is torn, the knife must be fine-tuned again.
Conclusion
There are many stones, but each of them has its own characteristics, and, like a knife, is chosen according to your hand. Synthetic stones are inexpensive to use. They are inexpensive and widely distributed.
But at the same time, you can achieve a soft sharpening only by using natural stone, which has its own characteristics. Japanese water stones are good in terms of quality. But their price is very high.
In addition, sharpening with such bars is long and inconvenient. In addition, it requires mood and skill. The same should be expected from Arkansas.
Hence the conclusion that each stone is suitable only for its owner; if you sharpen a hunting knife in nature or touch up a kitchen knife during a break between TV series and reading a newspaper, then it is better to take synthetics.
It will forgive small mistakes, and the quality of sharpening does not play a role here. But to sharpen a hunting or combat knife before going out into nature for a long time, it is worth using natural stones.
After sharpening, the knife is sharp, with edges and shape close to ideal. If you give a knife a lot of time and warmth, it will definitely not let you down at the right time.
Source: https://WarBook.club/oruzhie/holodnoe/kamni-dlya-zatochki/
Tips for sharpening a knife with a stone
How to sharpen with a whetstone to get a high-quality result? You need to know which block is best to choose and at what angle to hold the knife.
Stone selection
For sharpening with a stone to be successful, you need to pay attention to:
- Size . The length of the tool should exceed the length of the blade by about one and a half to two times. As a last resort - equal to the length of the knife;
- Surface . Carefully inspect the surface of the tool - it should be flat and without chips;
- Functionality . You can purchase a medium-hard universal tool. But it’s better to buy a stone with two types of grain size at once.
The length of the bar should be 1.5–2 times the length of the blade, but the width is not so important.
Selecting the angle of inclination
To achieve the desired result, you need to choose the correct sharpening angle. It depends on the type of knife:
- 25° - for professional chefs and fillets;
- 10°–20° — for Japanese knives;
- 30°–45° — for hunting blades;
- 30° - for kitchen knives.
The smaller the sharpening angle, the sharper the blade will be.
5 steps to sharpen a knife with a stone
| Description of actions |
| Step 1. Preparing the stone . Before sharpening knives with a whetstone, it must be prepared. To do this, rinse the instrument in water or vegetable oil. |
| Step 2: Installing the support . Place a wooden cutting board or other object on the table that can act as a support for the block. For convenience, you can build a small holder from a wooden block and several nails, as shown in the photo. |
| Step 3. Fixation and start working . Place the kitchen knife at the desired angle. Remember that the same slope must be maintained throughout the entire work. Make sure that the top of the handle is in contact with the bottom of the block. Move along the path indicated in the photo. You shouldn’t put too much pressure on the blade, but you also don’t need to just iron it. |
| Step 4. Main work . Move both sides of the blades alternately until peculiar “burrs” appear on it. This is a signal that the excess metal has worn out, and there is no point in grinding it further. During the sharpening process, metal dust will appear on the surface, which will need to be washed with water from time to time. |
| Step 5. Finishing. Turn the block over to the side with the finer grain. Sand the blade using the same movements. |
This is what the “burrs” on knives look like when enlarged
All you have to do is test the sharpness of the blade by cutting a piece of paper or a tomato with it.
Source: https://coollifehack.ru/kak-horosho-zatochit-nozh-kamnem/
Principles for choosing stones for sharpening knives
One of the main tools that any housewife uses in the kitchen is a knife. It is used for various purposes, but in most cases it is used for cutting food. However, the cutting edge gradually becomes dull. This process is accelerated if you have to cut hard materials. To restore the sharpness of the cutting edge, you need to use stones to sharpen knives.
Sharpening principles and options
Tool turning is the process of removing a layer of metal from a cutting edge with an abrasive material. At the same time, unevenness, nicks, chips, and burrs disappear. To bring the blade to normal condition, a special sharpening stone is used. It is made from abrasive particles that can vary in size. Because of this, there are several types of abrasive devices, some of which are suitable for rough processing, others for finishing.
In addition to choosing a sharpening device, you need to choose a sharpening angle. It all depends on how the blade is used. For example, a classic kitchen knife needs to be sharpened at angles of 30 to 35 degrees. Hunting tool - from 40 to 45 degrees.
We must not forget that there are knives that do not need to be sharpened. These are special blades that have a hard metal layer on the blade. Thanks to it, the self-sharpening process occurs.
Types of whetstone
Before you start sharpening, you need to choose a sharpener. Types of emery:
- Ceramic bars. They are devices for finishing blades. This is due to small grains of abrasive material. When turning, you must use water. If there is no liquid, the pores on the ceramic will become clogged, causing the surface to quickly become smooth. On the market you can find many devices made in Russia.
- Diamond stones. A popular option for sharpening stones that are used at home. This is due to the fact that there are many manufacturers of these devices, their prices are low, and their quality is high. Beginners are recommended to use these tools to learn how to sharpen blades. However, after processing with a diamond stone, you need to go over the cutting edge with ceramics.
- Arkansas bars. Special devices for sharpening razors. Consists of homogeneous quartz crystals. Oil must be used during turning. If you don't add it, your pores will become clogged with metal powder.
- Japanese water stones. These are bars that stand out for their high quality of processing. To achieve a better effect, you need to learn how to use this device. Natural stone from Japan differs from the previous one in being more soft.
- Synthetic materials. The most popular version of whetstones for sharpening blades, which can be bought in stores. Made from corundum or carbides.
Knowing the characteristics of different materials, you can protect yourself from damage to the cutting edge.
Sharpening household tools
Having chosen a stone for sharpening knives, you need to learn how to set the sharpening angle of the blade, familiarize yourself with the procedure step by step, and the features of the technological process.
Angle Definition
Choosing a whetstone for sharpening knives is not as difficult as setting the required angle. It is chosen depending on the purpose for which the cutting edge will be used. Classic sharpening angles:
- Razors, surgical instruments, blades - up to 10 degrees.
- Fillet knives for cutting vegetables -10–20 degrees.
- Professional chef's knives - 20–25 degrees.
- Universal tools - 25-35 degrees.
- Blades for hunting, heavy work - 30–40 degrees.
Do not forget to lubricate the sharpening stone with oil or moisten it with water. Tables of exact turning angles can be found on the Internet.
Types of thin sections
Sharpening stones can be double-sided or single-sided. The second option is more convenient. It is advisable to use several devices according to the grain size, so that it is possible to correct both gross and minor damage to the blades.
Step by step procedure
To get a good effect, you need to do the work correctly. Step-by-step instruction:
- Diamond stones for sharpening knives must be prepared before sharpening. Check the abrasive surface for unevenness. It should be smooth.
- Place the stone so that the sanding side faces up.
- Take the knife blade with the cutting edge facing away from you. Perform straight movements. Moisten the stone with water when carrying out work.
It is forbidden to make movements in a circle or move the blade longitudinally. This can damage the cutting edge.
Knives are used in any kitchen; they are used by hunters, fishermen and travelers.
To keep this versatile tool in working condition, you need to sharpen the cutting edge. To do this, you need to choose a block of abrasive material. Sharpening kitchen knives on water stones and sharpening systems
Principles for choosing stones for sharpening knives Link to main publication
Source: https://metalloy.ru/obrabotka/zatochka/kamni-dlya-nozhej
Knife sharpening stones
Sharpening stones are best suited for restoring the cutting edge of knives. Today it is possible to choose a sharpening stone from a huge assortment. They are made from both natural and artificial materials.
The difference between types is usually the different degrees of grain. To determine which whetstone is best to choose, you need to remember several principles of sharpening blades.
Stones with coarse grains are suitable for primary sharpening, while stones with fine grains are suitable for finishing and straightening the cutting edge.
CBN bars
CBN can be considered as an analogue of diamond models. This stone is based on a super-hard material – boron nitride. This material is practically not inferior in properties to diamond. These sharpening stones are highly durable and long lasting. They are suitable for sharpening knives made of steels of various grades and chemical compositions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tZy4hnx8AE
For professional sharpening, two whetstones are often used: diamond for rough sharpening, and CBN for fine-tuning the cutting edge. This is due to the fact that boron nitride crystals are much smaller than diamond chips.
If you need to choose a whetstone for sharpening a hunting knife or other high-quality tool, it is better to purchase a high-quality CBN stone than a cheap analogue. Due to minimal wear, it will last for many years. It does not require special care, does not leave scratches on the metal and allows you to achieve a mirror-like surface of the blade.
Sharpening and straightening with Japanese water stones
(narrated by Andrey Kozlovsky)
The main difference between Japanese water stones and their European and Russian counterparts is the “softness” of sharpening, which is determined by the ratio of the pore volume to the volume of the bond and the abrasive grains themselves. Japanese water stones are designed to be handmade and used exclusively with water.
Due to their great softness, the bars grind off quickly, constantly exposing new abrasive grains, and on the surface of the bar, the worn grains, together with water, form a suspension, which in no case should be removed.
Usually a small Nagura stone is supplied with Japanese stones (especially fine-grained ones) to create a pre-suspension.
Japanese water stones
Japanese water stone with Naguro
Since water stones (especially coarse-grained ones) are subject to rapid wear, their surface must be periodically restored.
There are special dressing stones for this.
Black - for coarse grains, light blue for fine grains.
Japanese water stones, depending on the size of the abrasive, can have values from 80 to 10,000 or more (I have heard of 12,000, 15,000 and 30,000).
I personally believe that the use of stones over 8,000 does not make sense and they can be used in exceptional cases when the user clearly understands why he needs it.
So, stones with a grain size from 80 to 400 are used for roughing operations - repair work associated with large metal removal, such as restoring the geometry of the blade, repairing chips, etc.
To remove traces of roughing operations and preliminary sharpening, stones with a grain size from 600 to 1200-2000 are required.
Stones with a grit of 3000 to 5000 are used for fine sharpening and finishing.
Starting from 6000 and above, this is already finishing and super-finishing.
You should always strive for the next stone to be approximately twice the size of the previous one (i.e. 100-220-400-800, etc.).
If the knife is slightly dull, then to straighten it, as the American master Murray Carter advises, you can use two stones: #1000 and #6000.
If there is severe wear and repairs are necessary, then you need to start with #100-#120, then #180-#220 and then 400-700-1000-3000-5000–8000.
The more stones you use, the easier the work will be and the better the result. Typically, most of the time is spent on initial operations. During finishing operations, strength as such is not required; you need to increase your attention and, if you are tired, it is better to rest.
Before use, all water stones must be soaked in clean water for a period of 10 minutes (for coarse-grained stones) to half an hour (for fine-grained stones). Time is controlled by air bubbles that are released from the stone.
It is better to have separate containers for each type of stone so that particles of larger abrasive do not fall on smaller ones.
Then the stone is removed and placed on a holder (of which there are a lot - from special rubber ones to just a damp towel, and some use a vice with rubber jaws). On fine-grained stones, before working, you need to create a layer of suspension using the Naguro auxiliary stone. The stone is now ready for use.
To set a certain angle, you can place a coin or two under the blade, or rely on your steadiness of hands, setting and maintaining the angle intuitively, or use a special device for setting the sharpening angle, which, when put on the butt of the knife, sets a certain sharpening angle, usually 15 degrees.
Well, then we begin sharpening, holding the knife at an angle of 45 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the block. Over time, you will be able to do without any devices for setting angles. And here it is also important, as they say, “to catch the tempo.” But this comes with experience.
During sharpening, the amount of suspension will increase all the time. There is no need to wash it off, you just need to make sure that it remains damp by shaking the water off your fingers or using a special sprayer.
You can check the sharpness of the knife by cutting a sheet of newspaper while holding it. If you manage to “shred” the leaf and the blade doesn’t stick anywhere and the noodles easily fly off the blade, everything is fine. But first you need to look at the illuminated cutting edge - a sharp blade does not produce glare along its length.
If you have sharpened the knife well, you can try to check its geometry - how well the knife cuts. Grab some chefs or Gyuto and start cutting apples in halves and quarters with them. You will immediately feel the difference. And if you can sharpen almost any knife sharply, then make it cut
According to this test, I have two knives as winners - one made by Murray Carter, the second by Gennady Prokopenkov. Carter is a little better. Try it yourself.
Here's a photo of my sharpening workplace:
Japanese craftsmen recommend using synthetic water stones up to #5000-#6000 for sharpening and straightening, and finishing with Japanese natural water stones.
The term “grain” does not apply to natural Japanese water stones. You can only say, “this stone is approximately #5000-#6000,” but that will only be approximately true.
Therefore, when buying a natural stone, you need to very clearly describe your tasks to the seller (what knives you are going to sharpen, what operations to perform with them, what cutting technique you know and what stones you already have). And the seller will try to choose a stone that suits YOU. Considering the fairly high cost of natural stones, there is a certain element of risk here.
At the same time, unsurpassed results in sharpening and polishing are achieved using natural stones. They are also different.
Firstly, there are rough stones (arato, mostly sandstones), medium stones (nakado - quartz trachytes, tuffs, andesites) and fine stones (awasedo - siliceous shales and clays).
As I already noted, finishing stones are mainly used (since better results can be achieved with them), while arato and nakado do an excellent job with synthetic stones, and they are much cheaper.
It is necessary to inspect the stone very carefully for the presence of cracks (which is almost impossible when purchasing through online stores). Usually the side surfaces of the stone are coated with a special Urushi varnish, but European (Finnish) waterproof varnishes can also be used.
I had an Atogoyama Asagi stone with a small longitudinal crack, which I did not immediately notice, and when immersed in water for the second time, it fell apart into two parts. It's good that the stone was large and I was able to align both pieces, getting two working stones.
But now I am very attentive to the slightest cracks and make sure that the sides are always covered with varnish.
The best stones are mined in the mountains near the city of Kyoto.
Here in the picture are the Tsukuba, Asagi and Suita stones
The names of the stones are quite confusing. As a rule, there is the name of the mine and the stratum (layer) from which the stones were extracted (Nakayama, Oohira, Oozuki, Shinden, etc.), and various poetic fantasies and comparisons.
Thus, the name Suita can be associated with the concept of “honeycomb” (Su - in Japanese); indeed, under high magnification under a microscope, the surface of the stone resembles a honeycomb.
Uguisu in Japanese is called a nightingale, and the name of the stone comes from the color of the stone matching the color of the nightingale, Asagi - yellowish-gray or gray-blue - here it’s just a color match.
On finishing stones (except Suita ) it is necessary to create a suspension before work. For this purpose, special nagura stones are used (everything is the same as with synthetic stones, but here the nagura stones are natural).
Finishing stones with nagura:
There are different schools and techniques for working on natural water stones.
Thus, the famous Japanese master Iwasaki san (he is famous for his razors) recommends using successively different nagura when sharpening on one finishing stone - first the coarser Botan , then the medium Tenjou or Mejiro and finally Koma .
The very last final polishing is done on a clean stone without any slurry.
On the other hand, Iwasaki san's student and one of the best masters in Japan, Iizuka Tokifusa (Shigefusa), does not use nagura at all (he most often uses Suita stones). In general, it takes more than one year to comprehend all the subtleties of polishing. But you should try to sharpen on Japanese natural stones.
It may also be noted that many of the names of both stones and nagura are not commonly used throughout Japan.
It seems to me that the result of working on natural stone is superior to that of synthetic stone due to their different nature.
In synthetics, the sizes of abrasive particles are clearly defined and they do not change during the work process, while in natural stones the particles in suspension are constantly crushed, and even the suspension is set by different degrees
Nobody knows for sure, but the result is there.
In addition to sharpening stones, there are so-called “Fingerstones”.
These are small stones of various types and properties used to polish the actual knife blade in order to highlight the most interesting and beautiful areas (kasumi, hamon on Honyaki knives, just the structure of the steel). These stones have their own names: Uchigomori (Hazuya), Nakayama (Chizuya), Hakka, etc.
Sometimes they are specially crushed again, glued onto the fingers and polished.
Source: http://www.cookingknife.ru/maintenance/zatochka_kamni.shtml
Grit of stone for sharpening knives: marking, grit
> Knife sharpening
19.08.2019
Sharpening stones are multifunctional tools; they are needed for repairing, straightening and sharpening devices that have a cutting edge.
They cope excellently with such tasks as sharpening, since the force and intensity of manual processing are selected independently, unlike electric machines, which operate at high speeds and, due to a small mistake, can ruin the entire product.
Another advantage of the bars will be their modest dimensions, thanks to which any tourist, fisherman or hunter can have them with them.
But it’s worth noting right away that even amateur sharpening on stones is far from simple. Those who have never used such abrasives may encounter certain difficulties at the very beginning of their journey - choosing a “tool”. The most frequently asked question that can be heard from a beginner is: what grit size of stone is needed for sharpening knives. Let's try to fully cover this topic, putting everything into detail.
Classifications of whetstones
The first sharpening stones were used by humans in ancient times. For example, to restore the cutting properties of their scythes, peasants used special bars called whetstones.
The sharpening stone acquired a more or less modern appearance during the Soviet era, when special markings began to be applied to it. This was forced by adjusting all manufactured products to general standards.
The bars of that time had the following data:
- manufacturer's mark;
- product type;
- dimensions;
- grain;
- material of manufacture;
- technical properties;
- accuracy class;
- GOST standard.
According to their type of origin, sharpening stones are divided into 2 groups:
- natural;
- artificial.
Natural
They are the oldest sharpening tools. There are a huge number of minerals with similar characteristics. They are mined all over the world.
Natural stone for sharpening knives.
Some of the most popular species are Japanese waterstones and Arkansas.
Synthetic
A worthy, modern replacement for natural abrasives. Technological progress and the industrial revolution, which imposed new high demands on sharpening, gave impetus to the development and creation of synthetic materials. Their undoubted advantage is that the factory can independently set their hardness, grain size and size, adjusting everything to GOST. They are made from heavy-duty compounds that are joined by heat treatment. Such stones are divided into 3 types:
- aquatic;
- diamond;
- ceramic.
Synthetic stone for sharpening knives.
Grit of sharpening stones
The very first question, the answer to which will help you choose the right stone for knives, concerns the grain size, it is also called grit. The aggressiveness of the impact on the metal directly depends on the value of this parameter.
Large grains leave deep chips and gouges on the surface, which is unacceptable. An ideal job is considered to be a smooth, sharp, mirror-like cutting edge without any defects.
That is why large grains are used only for working with workpieces, that is, processing a newly forged blade, or for restoration. Fine grains are responsible for grinding and final polishing.
True, working with this stone takes an order of magnitude longer, but the result is worth it. Medium grain sharpens if the blade is slightly dull.
In your kit, it is advisable to have a minimum, if you sharpen infrequently or are just learning, three double-sided stones: with very fine grain, medium and coarse. It is worth working, moving from large to small.
Water stones for sharpening knives of various grain sizes.
Grit and Roughness Table
This table contains all the necessary information that will help you understand the different types of stones: markings, grain size, roughness and purpose.
| Class | Average grain size, microns. | Grit | Russia | Purpose | ||
| Japan (water workers) | USA | Germany | GOST 9206-81 (diamonds) | |||
| 14 | 0,025 | — | — | 0,1/0 | Editing and polishing, super finish | |
| 14 | 0,05 | — | — | |||
| 13 | 0,07 | 200,000 | — | |||
| 13 | 0,1 | — | — | |||
| 12 | 0,15 | 100,000 | — | 0,3/0 | ||
| 12 | 0,25 | 60,000 | 100,000 | |||
| 11 | 0,49 | 30,000 | 60,000 | 1/0,5 | ||
| 10 | 0,74 | 20,000 | 20,000 | |||
| 10 | 0,91 | 16,000 | 16,000 | |||
| 9 | 1 | 15,000 | 14,000 | 1/0 | ||
| 9 | 1,5 | 10,000 | 10,000 | 2/1 | ||
| 9 | 2 | 8,000 | — | F 1500 | ||
| 8 | 3 | 5,000 | 8,000 | F 1200 | 3/2 | |
| 7 | 5 | 3,000 | 4,500 | — | 5/3 | |
| 7 | 5,3 | — | — | — | 7/5 | |
| 7 | 7 | — | — | — | ||
| 7 | 8,5 | 1,800 | P 2500 | — | 10/7 | |
| 6 | 10 | 1,500 | — | F 600 | Removing grinding marks, fine sharpening and finishing | |
| 6 | 15 | 1,000 | P 1200 | — | 20/14 | |
| 6 | 18 | 800 | P 1000 | F 400 | ||
| 5 | 20 | — | — | — | ||
| 5 | 26 | 600 | P 600 | — | 28/20 | |
| 4 | 30 | 500 | P500 | F 320 | 40/28 | Removing traces of roughing operations, grinding |
| 4 | 35 | 400 | P 400 | — | ||
| 4 | 46 | 320 | P 320 | F 240 | 60/40 | |
| 3 | 53 | 280 | P 280 | F 230 | ||
| 3 | 68 | 240 | P 220 | F 180 | 80/63 | |
| 3 | 82 | — | P 180 | F 150 | ||
| 2 | 100 | — | P 150 | — | 125/100 | Roughing operations, intensive metal removal |
| 2 | 136 | 120 | — | — | — | |
| 1 | 260 | — | P 60 | F 60 | — |
Grit of stone for sharpening knives: markings, grit Link to main publication
Source: https://VashNozh.ru/zatochka/zernistost-kamnya-dlya-zatochki
