How to etch a pattern on metal

Artistic metal etching

• 1 Development and drawing
• 2 Metal etching

Agree, metal products (knives, blades, amulets) look much more beautiful if they are decorated with patterns and ornaments.

But how to apply a pattern to a metal surface? Engraving? This method is also possible, but there are several more. One of them is called artistic electrochemical etching of metal .
In this article you will learn how to decorate a knife blade.

Below is the entire process from drawing a sketch to the process of etching metal at home.

Development and drawing

Sketch

A subject drawing, a floral ornament, a logo or just a phrase - this is just a small list of design ideas that will be beautifully imprinted on the blade. Choose what pattern you want to see on the blade and start creating a sketch. You can draw it yourself or ask a professional.

Then you need to transfer the design to the blade. To do this, we place the blade in the scanner, transfer the image to the CorelDraw program, where we outline the contours of the blade. Next, apply a suitable ornament. The result should be duplicated in a mirror image and sent for printing.

Blade varnishing and pattern transfer

The blade must be varnished in advance. You can use matte varnish for plastic replica models. The varnish needs to be diluted with a nitro thinner to dry faster, and applied with an airbrush (you can also use a brush). The varnish is used because it retains its plasticity throughout the day and does not crumble under the scrubber.

We cut out the sketch to make it easier to fit to the blade, “black out” the reverse side with a pencil, and attach it to the blade with masking tape. Afterwards we draw the ornament with a thin pen. The result is a drawing on the varnish.

Scratching a drawing

We scratch the pattern on the surface of the varnish using scrubbers with different sharpenings. It is important that the metal of the scrubber is not harder than the metal of the blade, otherwise there will be scratches.

Features of the drawing

Interesting: Pendant “Salamander”

In our example, a “field” is etched (this is the most difficult option, since it is more difficult to scratch the design), although a more accessible option is also possible, when only the contours of the design are etched.

Metal etching

You can use a variable transformer, for example, from a toy railroad.
It will be an adapter for a mini-drill, which is indispensable for delicate work. The maximum voltage is 12V, which is more than enough. Heat shrink casing serves as insulation. Flannel: Copper/brass plate – approximately 100\7 mm.

We begin electrochemical etching of metal by placing the fabric on a plate and soaking it all in a saline solution (do not skimp on salt). Then we start etching - with quick touches, you shouldn’t hold it for long, because... the varnish may overheat.

Result

The described method of etching metal at home is good because it is easier to control the process, unlike etching in a “entire” vessel. You just need to go over the drawing several times (we recommend that you practice on rough blanks first so as not to spoil the blade). When the drawing is finished, turn off the unit and wipe the blade with solvent. Actually, this is the method of artistic metal etching.

Source: https://all-he.ru/publ/svoimi_rukami/nozhi/khudozhestvennoe_travlenie_metalla/38-1-0-290

Do-it-yourself metal engraving at home - instructions and video

It makes no sense to talk about applying inscriptions on metal using special paints or varnishes. By the way, this is also one of the methods of engraving on metals. But how long will such drawings, symbols, and icons last on the sample? They will be washed off quite quickly with any of the solvents, although due to banal abrasion their service life will be short. There are more efficient metal engraving technologies, which we will talk about.

But are they all suitable for independent performance, and even at home? When you just read about them, everything is clear and easy. But practical implementation is another matter.

Laser engraving

This method is considered the most effective, as it allows you to apply a pattern (drawing) of any complexity to metal, “writing” the finest lines and smallest icons on it. But taking into account the fact that engraving samples using this method will require expensive equipment, it is acceptable only for those who have decided to make this craft their business, that is, to put production on stream.

It is unlikely that anyone will want to shell out a tidy sum just to put memorable inscriptions on a couple of teaspoons or on the blade of a hunting knife. The services of professionals in any workshop will cost less.

Mechanical engraving

The accessories are much simpler here - you only have to purchase a set of required cutters and the engraver itself. A drill is often used for these purposes (anyone who has ever visited a dentist knows what this is). Another option is to apply images using incisors.

The quality of the inscriptions will be high, but only if you have not just knowledge in this area, but also extensive practical experience. This work requires a “sharp eye” and a steady hand.

How many of us can boast of our skills? It turns out that quite a lot of time will pass from what was conceived to actually executed, which is necessary to acquire skills.

Who is happy with this prospect? In addition, you also need to be able to sharpen cutters (stiches) correctly if the work is carried out with their help.

Let's consider the technique of electro/chemical etching for the purpose of applying inscriptions. It belongs to the simplest category, and anyone who has chromed metal parts at home will get the gist of it right away.

Engraving method 1

What you will need:

• Glass container (according to the size of the workpiece being processed). Naturally, not a bottle with a narrow neck, but a jar, glass or bath.

Source: https://ismith.ru/metalworking/gravirovka-na-metalle-v-domashnix-usloviyax/

Do-it-yourself etching of a design on metal - Metalist's Handbook

Etching is a method of reproducing designs, ornaments, inscriptions, etc. using chemical means. on the surface of metal objects.

Etching is done in two ways : you can cover all the lines and surfaces of the drawing with a substance that is affected by the mordant.

Or, on the contrary, you can protect all spaces from the action of acids, leaving the lines and surfaces of the drawing free.

If you then cover the entire surface with acid, then in the first case the pattern will turn out to be slightly embossed, in the second case the pattern will appear in-depth.

No matter how simple the etching operation may seem at first glance, beginners often fail, especially when etching thin and complex designs.

Surface cleaning

Before applying the protective coating, the surface to be treated should be thoroughly cleaned of any thin deposits of rust, grease and other dirt. Fat adhering to the surface can be removed by washing in alcohol or gasoline, calcining or, finally, boiling in a solution of soda or sodium hydroxide.

The object, cleaned of dirt and grease, is immersed in a 10% solution of sulfuric acid and left in it until the dark coating of rust disappears.

After this, the surface to be treated can be polished if the shape of the object allows and its purpose does not contradict this operation. But such pre-polishing is not necessary.

The cleaned surface should not be touched with bare fingers, as there is always a greater or lesser amount of fatty substance on them, and the mordant has no effect on fat.

When the surface to be etched has been cleaned enough to have a fresh metallic sheen, begin applying the protective coating.

Protective covering

A good coating can be prepared as follows: melt 1 part asphalt and 2 parts mastic, mix the mixture and add 2 parts white wax to it.

Once cooled, this composition is formed into balls and cones, which are first wrapped in a cloth made of thin dense linen, and on top in dry taffeta.

The composition is applied to the surface as follows: the object to be treated is heated and, gently pressing on the surface, the mass wrapped in taffeta is passed over it evenly; in this case, the composition melts and seeps through the rag, covering the rubbed surface with a thin layer.

When this coating has hardened, it is covered with a thin layer of white lead, finely ground and dissolved in a solution of gum arabic.

Transferring a drawing

Then, using blue paper, the required design or inscription is transferred to a white surface. All places that need to be etched are scraped to the surface of the metal. With a thin and sharp engraving needle you can reproduce even the finest shading of a design.

If you want to etch a simple figure or inscription, then the protective coating can be diluted with some liquid, for example turpentine, to the consistency of thick oil paint. Using this coating, you can reproduce the desired design by hand with a needle or even a steel pen.

When applying a protective coating, you must ensure that the metal surface is completely dry, otherwise the coating will not adhere well in some places, and the acid can then penetrate the metal and etch areas that should remain untouched.

Mordant recipe

as a mordant for copper, brass, bronze and silver items : 3 parts of a saturated aqueous solution of copper nitrate and 1 part of a saturated vinegar solution of ammonia.

For iron and steel, the following mixture is recommended: 400 parts of water, 2-3 drops of nitric acid, 15 parts of calome (mercury dichloride) and 1 part of tartaric acid.

Etching

The object to be etched is lowered into a glazed clay cuvette (bath), into which the appropriate solvent is poured.

If the surface to be treated is flat, then you can set it in a horizontal position, sculpt a finger-thick rim of wax around the edges, and pour the appropriate acid into the resulting flat cuvette.

When the etching is considered complete, the object is rinsed in clean water, and the protective coating is removed by heating or washed off with turpentine.

If a certain amount of etching remains in the recesses, then over time it will corrode the metal surface in places deeper than required. To avoid this, place the washed item in lime water for a few minutes, which neutralizes the remaining acid.

Source: https://ssk2121.com/travlenie-risunka-na-metalle-svoimi-rukami/

Etching a design on metal

It makes no sense to talk about applying inscriptions on metal using special paints or varnishes. By the way, this is also one of the methods of engraving on metals. But how long will such drawings, symbols, and icons last on the sample? They will be washed off quite quickly with any of the solvents, although due to banal abrasion their service life will be short. There are more efficient metal engraving technologies, which we will talk about.

But are they all suitable for independent performance, and even at home? When you just read about them, everything is clear and easy. But practical implementation is another matter.

The most popular methods of metal etching

To create an unusual pattern on a metal surface, you do not need to use high-tech equipment. Metal etching allows you to create any pattern on the surface being processed without serious effort or the purchase of expensive equipment.

The essence of the method

To make a design on metal, you must use a corrosive compound (mordant). In order not to damage areas of the surface on which there will be no decorative image, a special protective coating is applied to them.

After preparing the part, it is immersed in a container filled with electrolytic liquid. The metal workpiece is exposed to an aggressive environment. Gradually, the acid eats away at the metal. It is important to understand that the longer the workpiece is in the mordant, the greater the layer of metal it will etch. There are two etching techniques: galvanic and artistic. They can be used both at work and at home.

Galvanic metal etching

It is considered the safest method. The galvanic method of etching involves the use of electrolytic solutions based on copper, iron, zinc sulfate and ammonia. No caustic acids are used, which emit harmful fumes during etching.

To carry out galvanic treatment, it is necessary to prepare certain equipment:

1. Large capacity for immersing parts (bath).
2. 5 volt DC supply. It is most convenient to use a power supply for this.
3. Separate cathode. It must be made of the same metal as the workpiece.
4. Wire hangers.
5. Two rods on which will secure the workpiece with the cathode and supply voltage.

After current is applied, the metal begins to be transferred from the workpiece to the cathode.

Artistic metal etching

The artistic method of metal etching is used by various craftsmen who work with metal products. It is used to decorate hunting knives, various weapons, equipment parts and much more. In addition to using various chemical liquids, you can try using glossy paper, tape or varnish.

Metal etching methods

There are several basic methods of artistic processing of metals, which are used in production and at home.

Chemical

Chemical etching of metal products involves the use of various acids. To create a drawing, you do not need to buy expensive equipment or assemble complex structures. Sulfuric, hydrochloric-phosphoric or nitric acid are used. Various materials can be effectively etched in a sulfuric acid solution.

When using a chemical method for decorative processing of metal products, it is necessary to use safety glasses and a respirator. Acids emit caustic fumes that can harm the human body.

Electrochemical

In this method of metal processing, an electrolyte solution is used. During the etching process, current is passed through it. Thus, the work proceeds faster than with chemical processing, and no harmful fumes are released.

Ion plasma

This method does not use acids or other chemical compounds. The metal is processed using ionized plasma, which is supplied to it in separate beams.

Etching a metal product

Metal etching methods may vary depending on the material being processed. For example, non-ferrous metals or steel and iron are processed differently.

Pickling of non-ferrous metals

Mordants are selected depending on the type of metal, its physical and mechanical properties. For example, copper-based alloys and pure copper are most effectively treated with sulfuric, nitric, hydrochloric or phosphoric acids. Chromium-based compounds can be used as a catalyst to accelerate the reaction.

To etch aluminum, it is necessary to use alkaline solutions. The same goes for molybdenum.

Before etching non-ferrous metals, they need to be prepared. To do this, it is necessary to remove the oxide film from the surface of the material. You also need to remove scale.

Titanium is interesting in the processing process. Initially, it must be coated with an alkaline solution and only then acids must be used. The second should be powerful concentrates.

PCB etching

Circuit boards for electrical appliances are made of textolite. On one side of the board there is a layer of copper foil. You can etch the paths through which the current will pass using copper sulfate, nitric acid, ferric chloride, and dilute sulfuric acid.

Steel pickling

Often, scale or oxide film is removed from steel using etching methods. It is important to initially degrease the steel surface so that there are no oil smudges or grease stains left on it. They can ruin the appearance of the material after etching. Also, special attention should be paid to mordants.

Mordants used for steel

The most popular composition used by home craftsmen is nitric acid. It is often mixed with hydrochloric acid to achieve the best effect. This mixture is dangerous and must be handled with care. To work with hard steels, you need to use a mixture of acetic and nitric acid.

Etching process for other materials

Etching is often used to create designs on glass. For this purpose, the vapors released by hydrofluoric acid are used. At the same time, protect areas that do not need to be treated with wax or paraffin.

Carrying out work at home

Etching on metal at home is considered popular among do-it-yourselfers. You can create any design with your own hands and transfer it to a metal surface.

Metal surface preparation

The main surface treatment can begin only after preparing the workpiece:

1. Foreign inclusions, rust, scale, and dirt are removed from the metal surface.
2. The metal product is wiped with a rag and degreased with a solvent.

The last stage of processing is polishing. If you can’t bring the surface to a mirror state, you need to clean it with sandpaper in one direction.

Getting a color drawing

To apply a design to the surface of a product at home, you can use one of three proven methods.

Nail polish

It is difficult to draw small details with this cosmetic composition due to its thickness. Varnish painting skills are required as it is difficult to fix failed parts.

Primer or bitumen varnish

For this method, you can use primer compositions GF 021, XB 062. Bitumen varnish is also suitable. The entire product is coated with the selected composition. The contours of the image are transferred with a brush. Using a needle or awl, the places from which the metal layer needs to be removed are cleaned.

Glossy paper

Such paper can be purchased in the stationery department of stores. Additionally you need an iron and a printer:

1. First of all, the printer prints the image in full size.
2. The design is placed on a metal surface with the glossy side and drawn 3-5 times with a hot iron.

After heat treatment, the paper is washed off with water.

Pickling safety precautions

When carrying out metal etching at home, you must follow safety regulations. In this way you can protect your body from the possible negative effects of chemicals. Rules and recommendations:

1. Work should be carried out in a room with good ventilation.
2. You can't pour water into acid. You can pour acid into water.
3. If the galvanic method is used for etching, the processing equipment must be checked for breakage and uninsulated areas.
4. To avoid burns, you must use a respirator, protective gloves and goggles.
5. A fire extinguisher must be present in the workshop.

If acid gets on the skin, the affected area must be washed with a soda solution.
Alkalis are washed off with diluted vinegar. How to apply a design to a knife.
Metal etching at home. The simplest and cheapest method is Metal etching, which is used in production and at home. This process allows you to create a variety of designs on metal and glass surfaces. However, when working with acids and alkalis, special attention must be paid to the safety of the body.

Source: https://metalloy.ru/obrabotka/gravirovka/travlenie-metalla

Source: https://homius.ru/nanesenie-i-travlenie-uzora-na-stalnom-nozhe.html

How to make an inscription on metal with your own hands? Electrochemical engraving - Homo habilis. Magazine for skilled people

How to make an inscription on metal with your own hands? Electrochemical engraving - Homo habilis. Magazine for skilled people

How to make an inscription on metal with your own hands? Electrochemical engraving - Homo habilis. Magazine for skilled people

How to make an inscription on metal with your own hands? Electrochemical engraving - Homo habilis. Magazine for skilled people

:  5 / 5

Elvert Barnes, flickr.com CC BY

Lettering on metal is a great way to make a unique gift or mark a valuable item. There are not many ways to make a clear and indelible inscription or design. One of them is electrochemical engraving

There are several ways to apply inscriptions or drawings to metal:

• paint applied by hand or stencil . The easiest way available to everyone. The main disadvantage is that even after complete drying, the paint can be easily removed with a solvent or mechanically. Therefore, only a temporary inscription can be applied with paint.
• mechanical engraving . Engraving requires an engraver and a suitable cutter. The main disadvantage is that working as an engraver requires sufficient skill and a steady hand. It is difficult for a beginner to draw a clear, even line even according to the markings. You can take it to an engraver’s workshop, it’s not very expensive. But they are unlikely to bother with anything more complicated than standard inscriptions, and it’s much more pleasant to do it yourself
• laser engraving . Allows you to apply any drawings and inscriptions with the smallest details and halftones. Requires expensive equipment, only available in the workshop
• electrochemical engraving . The method is relatively simple and fast. When working from a template, you don’t even need artistic skills

Electrochemical engraving – what will you need?

Metal etching at home. How to apply images to iron: step-by-step instructions

Metal etching at home. How to apply images to iron: step-by-step instructions

Metal etching at home. How to apply images to iron: step-by-step instructions

Metal etching sometimes replaces casting and engraving; it makes the whole process much simpler. You can get a design that is both concave - relief, and convex - bas-relief. Metal etching at home can be chemical or galvanic. The first option is more toxic when used at home, so for starters we will use the second, it is also called electrochemical.

Equipment

Metal etching

Metal etching

Metal etching

Pickling is the process of cleaning and processing a metal workpiece. Chemical, acidic, alkaline, electrochemical - there are many ways to perform this technological operation. Where is metal etching used, why is it used in industry, what are the processing methods using this technology, all these issues are discussed in detail in the article below.

What is etching

Do-it-yourself etching of a design on metal

Do-it-yourself etching of a design on metal

Do-it-yourself etching of a design on metal

Metal etching sometimes replaces casting and engraving; it makes the whole process much simpler. You can get a design that is both concave - relief, and convex - bas-relief. Metal etching at home can be chemical or galvanic. The first option is more toxic when used at home, so for starters we will use the second, it is also called electrochemical.

Equipment

Etching a design on a knife at home

Etching a design on a knife at home

Etching a design on a knife at home

The process of metal etching has been known to people since the 16th century. The most famous masters lived in Italy and Germany. Today, anyone in the world can do knife etching at home. The availability of reagents and many methods allows you to do this without special experience. But it’s definitely worth studying the topic of knife etching.

Etching a design on a knife at home.

The essence of the method

Artistic metal etching

• 1 Development and drawing
• 2 Metal etching

Agree, metal products (knives, blades, amulets) look much more beautiful if they are decorated with patterns and ornaments.

But how to apply a pattern to a metal surface? Engraving? This method is also possible, but there are several more. One of them is called artistic electrochemical etching of metal .
In this article you will learn how to decorate a knife blade.

Below is the entire process from drawing a sketch to the process of etching metal at home.

Development and drawing

Sketch

A subject drawing, a floral ornament, a logo or just a phrase - this is just a small list of design ideas that will be beautifully imprinted on the blade. Choose what pattern you want to see on the blade and start creating a sketch. You can draw it yourself or ask a professional.

Then you need to transfer the design to the blade. To do this, we place the blade in the scanner, transfer the image to the CorelDraw program, where we outline the contours of the blade. Next, apply a suitable ornament. The result should be duplicated in a mirror image and sent for printing.

Blade varnishing and pattern transfer

The blade must be varnished in advance. You can use matte varnish for plastic replica models. The varnish needs to be diluted with a nitro thinner to dry faster, and applied with an airbrush (you can also use a brush). The varnish is used because it retains its plasticity throughout the day and does not crumble under the scrubber.

We cut out the sketch to make it easier to fit to the blade, “black out” the reverse side with a pencil, and attach it to the blade with masking tape. Afterwards we draw the ornament with a thin pen. The result is a drawing on the varnish.

Scratching a drawing

We scratch the pattern on the surface of the varnish using scrubbers with different sharpenings. It is important that the metal of the scrubber is not harder than the metal of the blade, otherwise there will be scratches.

Features of the drawing

Interesting: Pendant “Salamander”

In our example, a “field” is etched (this is the most difficult option, since it is more difficult to scratch the design), although a more accessible option is also possible, when only the contours of the design are etched.

Metal etching

You can use a variable transformer, for example, from a toy railroad.
It will be an adapter for a mini-drill, which is indispensable for delicate work. The maximum voltage is 12V, which is more than enough. Heat shrink casing serves as insulation. Flannel: Copper/brass plate – approximately 100\7 mm.

We begin electrochemical etching of metal by placing the fabric on a plate and soaking it all in a saline solution (do not skimp on salt). Then we start etching - with quick touches, you shouldn’t hold it for long, because... the varnish may overheat.

Result

The described method of etching metal at home is good because it is easier to control the process, unlike etching in a “entire” vessel. You just need to go over the drawing several times (we recommend that you practice on rough blanks first so as not to spoil the blade). When the drawing is finished, turn off the unit and wipe the blade with solvent. Actually, this is the method of artistic metal etching.

Source: https://all-he.ru/publ/svoimi_rukami/nozhi/khudozhestvennoe_travlenie_metalla/38-1-0-290

Do-it-yourself metal engraving at home - instructions and video

It makes no sense to talk about applying inscriptions on metal using special paints or varnishes. By the way, this is also one of the methods of engraving on metals. But how long will such drawings, symbols, and icons last on the sample? They will be washed off quite quickly with any of the solvents, although due to banal abrasion their service life will be short. There are more efficient metal engraving technologies, which we will talk about.

But are they all suitable for independent performance, and even at home? When you just read about them, everything is clear and easy. But practical implementation is another matter.

Laser engraving

This method is considered the most effective, as it allows you to apply a pattern (drawing) of any complexity to metal, “writing” the finest lines and smallest icons on it. But taking into account the fact that engraving samples using this method will require expensive equipment, it is acceptable only for those who have decided to make this craft their business, that is, to put production on stream.

It is unlikely that anyone will want to shell out a tidy sum just to put memorable inscriptions on a couple of teaspoons or on the blade of a hunting knife. The services of professionals in any workshop will cost less.

Mechanical engraving

The accessories are much simpler here - you only have to purchase a set of required cutters and the engraver itself. A drill is often used for these purposes (anyone who has ever visited a dentist knows what this is). Another option is to apply images using incisors.

The quality of the inscriptions will be high, but only if you have not just knowledge in this area, but also extensive practical experience. This work requires a “sharp eye” and a steady hand.

How many of us can boast of our skills? It turns out that quite a lot of time will pass from what was conceived to actually executed, which is necessary to acquire skills.

Who is happy with this prospect? In addition, you also need to be able to sharpen cutters (stiches) correctly if the work is carried out with their help.

Let's consider the technique of electro/chemical etching for the purpose of applying inscriptions. It belongs to the simplest category, and anyone who has chromed metal parts at home will get the gist of it right away.

Engraving method 1

What you will need:

• Glass container (according to the size of the workpiece being processed). Naturally, not a bottle with a narrow neck, but a jar, glass or bath.

Source: https://ismith.ru/metalworking/gravirovka-na-metalle-v-domashnix-usloviyax/

Do-it-yourself etching of a design on metal - Metalist's Handbook

Etching is a method of reproducing designs, ornaments, inscriptions, etc. using chemical means. on the surface of metal objects.

Etching is done in two ways : you can cover all the lines and surfaces of the drawing with a substance that is affected by the mordant.

Or, on the contrary, you can protect all spaces from the action of acids, leaving the lines and surfaces of the drawing free.

If you then cover the entire surface with acid, then in the first case the pattern will turn out to be slightly embossed, in the second case the pattern will appear in-depth.

No matter how simple the etching operation may seem at first glance, beginners often fail, especially when etching thin and complex designs.

Surface cleaning

Before applying the protective coating, the surface to be treated should be thoroughly cleaned of any thin deposits of rust, grease and other dirt. Fat adhering to the surface can be removed by washing in alcohol or gasoline, calcining or, finally, boiling in a solution of soda or sodium hydroxide.

The object, cleaned of dirt and grease, is immersed in a 10% solution of sulfuric acid and left in it until the dark coating of rust disappears.

After this, the surface to be treated can be polished if the shape of the object allows and its purpose does not contradict this operation. But such pre-polishing is not necessary.

The cleaned surface should not be touched with bare fingers, as there is always a greater or lesser amount of fatty substance on them, and the mordant has no effect on fat.

When the surface to be etched has been cleaned enough to have a fresh metallic sheen, begin applying the protective coating.

Protective covering

A good coating can be prepared as follows: melt 1 part asphalt and 2 parts mastic, mix the mixture and add 2 parts white wax to it.

Once cooled, this composition is formed into balls and cones, which are first wrapped in a cloth made of thin dense linen, and on top in dry taffeta.

The composition is applied to the surface as follows: the object to be treated is heated and, gently pressing on the surface, the mass wrapped in taffeta is passed over it evenly; in this case, the composition melts and seeps through the rag, covering the rubbed surface with a thin layer.

When this coating has hardened, it is covered with a thin layer of white lead, finely ground and dissolved in a solution of gum arabic.

Transferring a drawing

Then, using blue paper, the required design or inscription is transferred to a white surface. All places that need to be etched are scraped to the surface of the metal. With a thin and sharp engraving needle you can reproduce even the finest shading of a design.

If you want to etch a simple figure or inscription, then the protective coating can be diluted with some liquid, for example turpentine, to the consistency of thick oil paint. Using this coating, you can reproduce the desired design by hand with a needle or even a steel pen.

When applying a protective coating, you must ensure that the metal surface is completely dry, otherwise the coating will not adhere well in some places, and the acid can then penetrate the metal and etch areas that should remain untouched.

Mordant recipe

as a mordant for copper, brass, bronze and silver items : 3 parts of a saturated aqueous solution of copper nitrate and 1 part of a saturated vinegar solution of ammonia.

For iron and steel, the following mixture is recommended: 400 parts of water, 2-3 drops of nitric acid, 15 parts of calome (mercury dichloride) and 1 part of tartaric acid.

Etching

The object to be etched is lowered into a glazed clay cuvette (bath), into which the appropriate solvent is poured.

If the surface to be treated is flat, then you can set it in a horizontal position, sculpt a finger-thick rim of wax around the edges, and pour the appropriate acid into the resulting flat cuvette.

When the etching is considered complete, the object is rinsed in clean water, and the protective coating is removed by heating or washed off with turpentine.

If a certain amount of etching remains in the recesses, then over time it will corrode the metal surface in places deeper than required. To avoid this, place the washed item in lime water for a few minutes, which neutralizes the remaining acid.

Source: https://ssk2121.com/travlenie-risunka-na-metalle-svoimi-rukami/

Etching a design on metal

It makes no sense to talk about applying inscriptions on metal using special paints or varnishes. By the way, this is also one of the methods of engraving on metals. But how long will such drawings, symbols, and icons last on the sample? They will be washed off quite quickly with any of the solvents, although due to banal abrasion their service life will be short. There are more efficient metal engraving technologies, which we will talk about.

But are they all suitable for independent performance, and even at home? When you just read about them, everything is clear and easy. But practical implementation is another matter.

The most popular methods of metal etching

To create an unusual pattern on a metal surface, you do not need to use high-tech equipment. Metal etching allows you to create any pattern on the surface being processed without serious effort or the purchase of expensive equipment.

The essence of the method

To make a design on metal, you must use a corrosive compound (mordant). In order not to damage areas of the surface on which there will be no decorative image, a special protective coating is applied to them.

After preparing the part, it is immersed in a container filled with electrolytic liquid. The metal workpiece is exposed to an aggressive environment. Gradually, the acid eats away at the metal. It is important to understand that the longer the workpiece is in the mordant, the greater the layer of metal it will etch. There are two etching techniques: galvanic and artistic. They can be used both at work and at home.

Galvanic metal etching

It is considered the safest method. The galvanic method of etching involves the use of electrolytic solutions based on copper, iron, zinc sulfate and ammonia. No caustic acids are used, which emit harmful fumes during etching.

To carry out galvanic treatment, it is necessary to prepare certain equipment:

1. Large capacity for immersing parts (bath).
2. 5 volt DC supply. It is most convenient to use a power supply for this.
3. Separate cathode. It must be made of the same metal as the workpiece.
4. Wire hangers.
5. Two rods on which will secure the workpiece with the cathode and supply voltage.

After current is applied, the metal begins to be transferred from the workpiece to the cathode.

Artistic metal etching

The artistic method of metal etching is used by various craftsmen who work with metal products. It is used to decorate hunting knives, various weapons, equipment parts and much more. In addition to using various chemical liquids, you can try using glossy paper, tape or varnish.

Metal etching methods

There are several basic methods of artistic processing of metals, which are used in production and at home.

Chemical

Chemical etching of metal products involves the use of various acids. To create a drawing, you do not need to buy expensive equipment or assemble complex structures. Sulfuric, hydrochloric-phosphoric or nitric acid are used. Various materials can be effectively etched in a sulfuric acid solution.

When using a chemical method for decorative processing of metal products, it is necessary to use safety glasses and a respirator. Acids emit caustic fumes that can harm the human body.

Electrochemical

In this method of metal processing, an electrolyte solution is used. During the etching process, current is passed through it. Thus, the work proceeds faster than with chemical processing, and no harmful fumes are released.

Ion plasma

This method does not use acids or other chemical compounds. The metal is processed using ionized plasma, which is supplied to it in separate beams.

Etching a metal product

Metal etching methods may vary depending on the material being processed. For example, non-ferrous metals or steel and iron are processed differently.

Pickling of non-ferrous metals

Mordants are selected depending on the type of metal, its physical and mechanical properties. For example, copper-based alloys and pure copper are most effectively treated with sulfuric, nitric, hydrochloric or phosphoric acids. Chromium-based compounds can be used as a catalyst to accelerate the reaction.

To etch aluminum, it is necessary to use alkaline solutions. The same goes for molybdenum.

Before etching non-ferrous metals, they need to be prepared. To do this, it is necessary to remove the oxide film from the surface of the material. You also need to remove scale.

Titanium is interesting in the processing process. Initially, it must be coated with an alkaline solution and only then acids must be used. The second should be powerful concentrates.

PCB etching

Circuit boards for electrical appliances are made of textolite. On one side of the board there is a layer of copper foil. You can etch the paths through which the current will pass using copper sulfate, nitric acid, ferric chloride, and dilute sulfuric acid.

Steel pickling

Often, scale or oxide film is removed from steel using etching methods. It is important to initially degrease the steel surface so that there are no oil smudges or grease stains left on it. They can ruin the appearance of the material after etching. Also, special attention should be paid to mordants.

Mordants used for steel

The most popular composition used by home craftsmen is nitric acid. It is often mixed with hydrochloric acid to achieve the best effect. This mixture is dangerous and must be handled with care. To work with hard steels, you need to use a mixture of acetic and nitric acid.

Etching process for other materials

Etching is often used to create designs on glass. For this purpose, the vapors released by hydrofluoric acid are used. At the same time, protect areas that do not need to be treated with wax or paraffin.

Carrying out work at home

Etching on metal at home is considered popular among do-it-yourselfers. You can create any design with your own hands and transfer it to a metal surface.

Metal surface preparation

The main surface treatment can begin only after preparing the workpiece:

1. Foreign inclusions, rust, scale, and dirt are removed from the metal surface.
2. The metal product is wiped with a rag and degreased with a solvent.

The last stage of processing is polishing. If you can’t bring the surface to a mirror state, you need to clean it with sandpaper in one direction.

Getting a color drawing

To apply a design to the surface of a product at home, you can use one of three proven methods.

Nail polish

It is difficult to draw small details with this cosmetic composition due to its thickness. Varnish painting skills are required as it is difficult to fix failed parts.

Primer or bitumen varnish

For this method, you can use primer compositions GF 021, XB 062. Bitumen varnish is also suitable. The entire product is coated with the selected composition. The contours of the image are transferred with a brush. Using a needle or awl, the places from which the metal layer needs to be removed are cleaned.

Glossy paper

Such paper can be purchased in the stationery department of stores. Additionally you need an iron and a printer:

1. First of all, the printer prints the image in full size.
2. The design is placed on a metal surface with the glossy side and drawn 3-5 times with a hot iron.

After heat treatment, the paper is washed off with water.

Pickling safety precautions

When carrying out metal etching at home, you must follow safety regulations. In this way you can protect your body from the possible negative effects of chemicals. Rules and recommendations:

1. Work should be carried out in a room with good ventilation.
2. You can't pour water into acid. You can pour acid into water.
3. If the galvanic method is used for etching, the processing equipment must be checked for breakage and uninsulated areas.
4. To avoid burns, you must use a respirator, protective gloves and goggles.
5. A fire extinguisher must be present in the workshop.

If acid gets on the skin, the affected area must be washed with a soda solution.
Alkalis are washed off with diluted vinegar. How to apply a design to a knife.
Metal etching at home. The simplest and cheapest method is Metal etching, which is used in production and at home. This process allows you to create a variety of designs on metal and glass surfaces. However, when working with acids and alkalis, special attention must be paid to the safety of the body.

Source: https://metalloy.ru/obrabotka/gravirovka/travlenie-metalla

Source: https://homius.ru/nanesenie-i-travlenie-uzora-na-stalnom-nozhe.html

How to make an inscription on metal with your own hands? Electrochemical engraving - Homo habilis. Magazine for skilled people

How to make an inscription on metal with your own hands? Electrochemical engraving - Homo habilis. Magazine for skilled people

:  5 / 5

Elvert Barnes, flickr.com CC BY

Lettering on metal is a great way to make a unique gift or mark a valuable item. There are not many ways to make a clear and indelible inscription or design. One of them is electrochemical engraving

There are several ways to apply inscriptions or drawings to metal:

• paint applied by hand or stencil . The easiest way available to everyone. The main disadvantage is that even after complete drying, the paint can be easily removed with a solvent or mechanically. Therefore, only a temporary inscription can be applied with paint.
• mechanical engraving . Engraving requires an engraver and a suitable cutter. The main disadvantage is that working as an engraver requires sufficient skill and a steady hand. It is difficult for a beginner to draw a clear, even line even according to the markings. You can take it to an engraver’s workshop, it’s not very expensive. But they are unlikely to bother with anything more complicated than standard inscriptions, and it’s much more pleasant to do it yourself
• laser engraving . Allows you to apply any drawings and inscriptions with the smallest details and halftones. Requires expensive equipment, only available in the workshop
• electrochemical engraving . The method is relatively simple and fast. When working from a template, you don’t even need artistic skills

Electrochemical engraving – what will you need?

Electrochemical engraving – what will you need?

Electrochemical engraving of metal using a stencil is done using laser-iron technology, which is well known to radio amateurs. You can also make a stencil by hand if your artistic skills allow it.

To engrave metal you will need simple and affordable materials and equipment:

• DC source 5-15 volts, capable of providing a current of at least 0.5 amperes (electronic power supply, cell phone charger, car battery or power tool)
• wires (it’s convenient if they come with clamps)
• iron
• packing or stationery tape
• thin glossy paper or backing from self-adhesive film
• plasticine of any color
• cotton pads or cotton gauze swabs
• saline solution (2 teaspoons of table salt per glass of water)
• clear nail polish

Electrochemical engraving - description of the process

Electrochemical engraving - description of the process

As an example, consider applying a personal mark to a knife blade. In principle, inscriptions and drawings can be applied to any more or less smooth, preferably polished, metal objects. It’s okay if the surface is slightly convex or concave. Objects with an embossed or otherwise textured surface are completely unsuitable for electrochemical stencil engraving.

The inscription or drawing that needs to be applied to the metal is prepared in any graphics or text editor that allows you to print the result. Please note that the final result needs to be mirrored in order to get the correct image later.

The image is printed on a laser printer. An inkjet printer is completely unsuitable for the laser-iron method.

Thin glossy paper (paper from various cosmetics catalogs works well) can simply be inserted into the printer; the typographic designs and text on the sheet do not matter. You can also immediately print on the glossy side of the backing from the self-adhesive film. In the printer settings, you need to cancel the toner saving mode (if it is enabled) and set the maximum brightness (“blackness”) of the image.

Unfortunately, I was only able to get a small piece of the film backing that the printer couldn't grab. Therefore, I had to attach this piece to a regular sheet of office paper with scraps of the same film.

My printer successfully chewed this sandwich and even printed everything successfully, but I don’t recommend repeating the experiment. It felt like a little more and the film would have melted and remained inside the printer.

After printing, the inscription is carefully cut out. In this case, under no circumstances should you touch the drawing with your fingers; it is better to wear cotton gloves.

The metal surface of the object (knife) is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and degreased with alcohol or acetone. After this, the work area should also not be touched with fingers .

The stencil is applied to the desired location. If there is any doubt that you can keep it from moving on a hot knife, prepare tweezers or something similar.

Now the stencil along with the knife is well heated with an iron. The temperature and heating time strongly depend on the properties of the specific toner and the object on which the inscription is applied, so you will have to select it experimentally. You can start with maximum temperature and 1-2 minutes.

If the surface is not completely flat, then after heating with an iron, you can walk with a cotton pad or a cotton-gauze swab, pressing the stencil onto the metal surface over the entire area. During the entire process, do not move the stencil along the knife!

After cooling, the paper can be removed. The backing from the self-adhesive film comes off without any problems, but you just need to soak the glossy paper for a few minutes in warm water.

Now you need to evaluate the quality of the resulting drawing. If some places did not transfer to metal, then the heating temperature or pressure was insufficient. Too high a temperature will cause the fine lines of the toner to blur and become less clear. In case of major defects, the pattern is washed off with acetone and the operation is repeated.

Small flaws can be corrected - the missing parts can be filled in with nail polish, and blurred lines can be corrected with a scalpel or razor. It is also advisable to cover large areas of the design covered with toner with nail polish - pores in the toner that are invisible to the eye can ruin the entire effect. There is no need to rush here; the finished engraving cannot be corrected.

If you have artistic abilities, you can do without toner altogether. To do this, the entire surface of the metal is coated with varnish and an inscription or design is applied, removing the varnish in the right places with a suitable tool.

If everything is in order, then you can start etching . To do this, you should arrange a small side of plasticine around the drawing. To be safe, I covered the adjacent areas of the knife blade with tape so as not to accidentally damage it.

A saline solution is poured into the resulting pool. The positive terminal of the current source is connected to the knife, and the negative terminal is simply lowered into the solution so as not to touch the surface of the knife.

Carefully! If the wire touches a metal surface, a short circuit will occur! If the current source is powerful (battery), strong sparking, splashing of the solution, heating and ignition of the wires are possible.

To prevent a short circuit, it is better to wrap the negative wire with cotton wool, thoroughly soaking it in a saline solution.

The engraving time depends on the power of the current source. If the solution turns black and foams, then everything is in order. After 20-30 seconds, you need to drain the solution and evaluate the result. If necessary, a fresh saline solution is poured into the bath and the process continues. Etching for too long will cause the drawing to lose clarity, and closely spaced lines may merge.

If the result is satisfactory, then the tape and plasticine are removed, and the toner is removed with acetone. The result of the work is visible in the photograph. It all took about an hour.

When applying the stencil, I cheated a little and did not varnish the design, for which I paid - in some places the solution penetrated under the toner and etched areas that should not have been etched.

We recommend reading

We recommend reading

Source: https://homo-habilis.ru/masterskaya/244-kak-sdelat-nadpis-na-metalle-svoimi-rukami-elektrokhimicheskaya-gravirovka

Metal etching at home. How to apply images to iron: step-by-step instructions

Metal etching at home. How to apply images to iron: step-by-step instructions

Metal etching sometimes replaces casting and engraving; it makes the whole process much simpler. You can get a design that is both concave - relief, and convex - bas-relief. Metal etching at home can be chemical or galvanic. The first option is more toxic when used at home, so for starters we will use the second, it is also called electrochemical.

Equipment

Equipment

You need to take a power supply or transformer that can output from 4 to 7 V. In addition, you will need a dielectric bath; it must contain the necessary part and a second metal object that is connected to the anode.

To etch a pattern on metal, it is necessary to use a solution of ferrous sulfate as an electrolyte. If the design is needed on a copper or brass surface, then use copper sulfate. You can also use ferric chloride. The main thing is that the water is distilled.

Preparing the part for etching

Preparing the part for etching

In order for the etching to be uniform and in the right places, the part must be cleaned of dirt and also degreased. For more convenient work, copper wire is soldered onto the part with tin; it will be convenient to hold the object by it.

To clean the surface, you need to dip the object to be converted into 10% sodium hydroxide, the temperature of which is 50°C, then into a 15% sulfuric acid solution and hold it there for two minutes, then rinse it in hot water.

When the procedure is completed, the surfaces of the object will be completely cleaned, and of course, you cannot touch them with your hands.

We need to protect areas that should not be etched. To do this, you need to apply a special mastic to these surface areas. It is made from three parts of wax and two parts of rosin, they are melted in a tin can, stirring.

After everything turns into a homogeneous mass, it is allowed to cool and divided into fragments. Each of them is placed in gauze so that later, when pressed, as much mastic as necessary can seep through it. After this, the workpiece that we will etch heats up.

Now we take the created mixture, which was placed in gauze, and rub the surface with an even layer.

After cooling, the mastic becomes hard. The top is coated with light water-soluble paint. This can be watercolor or gouache white. After which the coating should dry. Then you can apply the design; it will stick well to the paint. It can be depicted using a pencil or translated using carbon paper. Then this outline needs to be scratched with a needle all the way to the metal.

Now the etching of the metal by electrolysis begins, we connect one rod to the anode - plus, the other to the cathode - minus. We connect the part on which the image will be applied to the first, and any steel plate to the second. After this, the process of etching the metal begins where the image was scratched.

If you need to create a multi-level drawing, everything is done in the same way as described above. Only the contours are checked each time, and when the smallest of them have been etched to the required depth, the part is removed and painted over with heated mastic using a brush. When it hardens, everything is repeated again until the next level of the drawing. In this process, an image is gradually created.

In this way, metal is etched at home, after which the surface is washed with turpentine and then polished, giving the product a finished look.

Chemical etching

Chemical etching

Now let's look at how to create a pattern on a metal surface without the use of electrical devices. To do this, we need chemicals that are freely sold in hardware stores. So, let's begin. For etching we need:

• "White Spirit";
• paint that does not dissolve in White Spirit;
• acetone;
• resin, which is used to cover roofs;
• table salt;
• copper sulfate.

Cleaning the part

Cleaning the part

To begin with, the part where the image is planned is cleaned with fine sandpaper and degreased. When the surface is ready, you need to seal the place where the design will be applied with adhesive tape or something similar. After this, the entire remaining surface, where chemical etching should not affect the metal, is painted over. It can be of any color, as long as it is resistant to White Spirit.

Once the paint is dry, you can remove the adhesive tape. Beneath it is clean metal, ready to create a design on it. Now you need to apply an image onto this “mini-canvas”. It is made using resin, which is dissolved in White Spirit until it becomes liquid, like paint. Use it to paint the desired image using a brush.

What’s good about this kind of improvised paint is that if something doesn’t work out in the drawing, you can remove it by moistening a cloth or cotton swab in White Spirit. If there are very small details in the drawing that did not turn out well with a brush, they can be corrected with a needle, scraping off the excess after drying.

In this way, you can etch a knife, keys, in general, any metal object. Now that the drawing is completely ready, you can begin the etching itself.

Etching solution

Etching solution

We need a liter of water, in which we need to dissolve 100 g of copper sulfate, and then add salt. It needs to be sprinkled until it stops dissolving. The resulting mixture will have a blue color. However, after a metal object is immersed in it, the color will begin to change to green.

So, let's dive into the detail. The chemical process begins immediately. In all this production, no substances harmful to health are released, so this metal etching at home is safe.

Actions during a chemical reaction

Actions during a chemical reaction

During the reaction, a plaque forms, which will become more and more numerous. It slows down the whole process, so you need to periodically wash it off with water. You should not do this using various brushes, brushes and other tools, because you can damage the paint. But it seems to hold the entire design, and it would be a shame if, while etching a knife, for example, you inadvertently damage the design on it. This is a very delicate work that requires a steady hand and patience.

The depth of the pattern directly depends on the time during which the metal remains in the solution. There are no exact criteria, so each master must observe the progress of the chemical reaction himself. And only after doing this several times will it be possible to say with confidence how much time is needed to develop the desired pattern to the intended depth.

Advantages and disadvantages of electrochemical and chemical etching

Advantages and disadvantages of electrochemical and chemical etching

The advantages of electrochemical etching of metal at home include the fact that the created pattern is clearer, this is clearly visible if you look at it with magnification. However, the downside is that this method requires an electrical device, which not everyone may have.

The advantages of chemical etching include the fact that everything you need can be bought at a hardware store. These ingredients are cheap, and, most importantly, you don’t need to look anywhere for a power supply or other devices capable of delivering from 4 to 7 V. However, the disadvantage is the imperfect edges of the pattern.

Source: https://FB.ru/article/160621/travlenie-metalla-v-domashnih-usloviyah-kak-nanesti-izobrajeniya-na-jelezo-poshagovaya-instruktsiya

Metal etching

Metal etching

Pickling is the process of cleaning and processing a metal workpiece. Chemical, acidic, alkaline, electrochemical - there are many ways to perform this technological operation. Where is metal etching used, why is it used in industry, what are the processing methods using this technology, all these issues are discussed in detail in the article below.

What is etching

What is etching

This is a technology for removing the top layer from the surface of a metal part. The technology is used to clean workpieces from scale, rust, oxides and remove the top layer of metal. Using this method, the top layer is removed to search for internal defects and study the macrostructure of the material.

Using etching, they clean the part and increase surface adhesion. This is done for the subsequent connection of the metal surface with another workpiece, before applying paint, enamel, galvanic coating and other protective coatings.

The method allows you not only to quickly clean the part, but also to create the desired pattern on the metal surface. Using this method, the finest channels and complex images are cut out on a metal surface. You can clean large parts or rolled products. The processing depth is adjustable with an accuracy of several microns, which makes it possible to produce complex parts with small grooves and other complex elements.

Application of etching in industry

Application of etching in industry

1. For cleaning parts made of carbon, low-alloy and high-alloy steel, titanium and aluminum from oxide film.
2. To improve adhesion before applying galvanic and other types of protective coatings.
3. To prepare steel surfaces for hot-dip galvanizing.
4. To conduct macroanalysis to detect the formation of intergranular corrosion in stainless steels.
5. This technology is used to process small metal parts, such as watch gears.
6. Copper processing is used to make semiconductor chips and printed circuit boards in electronics.

   This method applies a conductive pattern to the microcircuit.

7. For quick cleaning of hot rolled metal products, heat-treated parts, from oxides.
8. In the aircraft industry, this technology is used to reduce the thickness of aluminum sheets to reduce the weight of the aircraft.
9. In the manufacture of metal inscriptions and drawings.

   Etching produces relief images drawn by removing a layer of metal according to a specific stencil.

Types of etching

Types of etching

The main types of metal processing used in industry:

• electrolytic - there are cathode and anodic;
• chemical;
• plasma.

Electrolytic etching

Electrolytic etching

Electrolytic or galvanic metal processing is used to quickly clean parts, apply engravings and produce grooves. Metal parts are immersed in an acid or salt electrolyte. The part becomes a cathode - a negative electrode or an anode - a positive electrode. Therefore, two types of electrolytic etching are classified - cathodic and anodic.

1. Cathodic etching. The method is used to remove scale from the surface of carbon steel products after hot rolling or oil quenching. In cathodic etching, the material for the anode is lead, and the electrolyte is a solution of hydrochloric, sulfuric acid or an alkali metal salt. During the electrolysis process, hydrogen gas is actively released at the cathode, which interacts with iron and removes scale. During the cathode method, the metal surface is actively saturated with hydrogen, which increases the fragility of the workpiece. Therefore, the cathode method is not used for thin-walled products.
2. Anodic electrochemical cleaning. This is the most common method in mechanical engineering. The process involves mechanically tearing off the oxide film on the anode with oxygen and mixing metal molecules with the electrolyte. An electrolyte is a solution of acids or salts of the metal being processed. Lead, copper and other metals are used as the cathode. During anodic treatment, the surface of the product becomes clean, with slight roughness, and the metal dissolves in the electrolyte. With this method, there is a risk of reducing the thickness of the workpiece and over-etching.

Chemical etching

Chemical etching

The chemical treatment method is used to clean the surface of a part from oxide film, scale and rust for workpieces made of the following materials:

• ferrous metals;
• stainless and heat-resistant steels;
• titanium and its alloys;
• aluminum

For etching, sulfuric, hydrochloric or nitric acid is used. The workpiece is immersed in an acid or alkaline solution, molten salt and kept for the required time interval. The required cleaning time can range from 1 to 120 minutes.

The cleaning process occurs due to the release of hydrogen when the acid interacts with the metal. Acid molecules penetrate through pores and cracks under the oxide film. There they interact with the metal surface and hydrogen is released. The released gas tears off the oxide film and cleans the part.

Simultaneously with the oxides, the metal being treated dissolves in the acid. To prevent this process, corrosion inhibitors are used.

Plasma etching

Plasma etching

With the ion-plasma method, cleaning and removal of the surface layer occurs by bombarding the part with ions of inert gases that do not react chemically with the molecules of the material being processed. Allows you to make high-precision notches and grooves with an accuracy of up to 10 nm. The technology is used in microelectronics.

The plasma-chemical method involves excitation of plasma in a chemically active medium, which causes the formation of ions and radicals. Active particles falling on a metal surface cause a chemical reaction. In this case, light compounds are formed, which are removed from the surrounding air by vacuum pumps.

The method is based on chemical reactions that occur when using reactive gases, such as oxygen, which are highly reactive. These gases actively interact in the gas discharge plasma. Unlike plasma treatment in inert gases, with this cleaning method, the active gas reacts only with certain molecules.

The disadvantage of this method is the lateral expansion of the grooves.

Etchants

Etchants

Pickling of carbon steels is carried out in an 8-20% solution of sulfuric or 10-20% hydrochloric acid. With the obligatory addition of corrosion inhibitors (KS, ChM, UNIKOL) to eliminate the fragility of the material and reduce the possibility of over-etching.

Products made of stainless or heat-resistant steel are processed using a solution consisting of: 12% hydrochloric, 12% sulfuric, 1% nitric acid. If required, processing is done in several stages. The first is that scale is loosened in 20% hydrochloric acid. The second stage is immersion in a 20-40% nitric acid solution to completely remove surface contaminants.

The thick layer of scale that forms on stainless steel is removed during its production by 75-85% molten caustic soda with 20-25% sodium nitrate. After which, complete removal of oxides is carried out in 15-20% nitric acid.

Processing of aluminum and alloys based on it involves removing the refractory oxide film from the surface of the workpiece. For this purpose, alkaline or acidic solutions are used. Usually 10-20% alkali is used, at a temperature of 50-80 ºС, the etching procedure takes less than 2 minutes. The addition of sodium chloride and sodium fluoride to the alkali makes this process more uniform.

The purification of titanium and its alloys, carried out after heat treatment, is carried out in several stages. At the first stage, scale is loosened in concentrated caustic soda. Then the scale is removed in a solution of sulfuric, nitric or hydrofluoric acid. To remove the remaining pickling sludge, use hydrochloric or nitric acid with the addition of a small amount of hydrofluoric acid.

When processing copper and its alloys, etchants from hydrogen peroxide, chromic acid and the following salts are used:

• copper chloride;
• ferric chloride;
• ammonium persulfate.

This information material describes in detail the pickling process used in metallurgical plants. The method allows you to quickly clean the metal surface from oxides, scale, rust and other contaminants. Thanks to etching, it is possible to apply various designs to metal, create complex microcircuits and make microscopic channels of the desired shape.

Source: https://prompriem.ru/stati/travlenie-metalla.html

Do-it-yourself etching of a design on metal

Do-it-yourself etching of a design on metal

Metal etching sometimes replaces casting and engraving; it makes the whole process much simpler. You can get a design that is both concave - relief, and convex - bas-relief. Metal etching at home can be chemical or galvanic. The first option is more toxic when used at home, so for starters we will use the second, it is also called electrochemical.

Equipment

Equipment

You need to take a power supply or transformer that can output from 4 to 7 V. In addition, you will need a dielectric bath; it must contain the necessary part and a second metal object that is connected to the anode.

To etch a pattern on metal, it is necessary to use a solution of ferrous sulfate as an electrolyte. If the design is needed on a copper or brass surface, then use copper sulfate. You can also use ferric chloride. The main thing is that the water is distilled.

In order for the etching to be uniform and in the right places, the part must be cleaned of dirt and also degreased. For more convenient work, copper wire is soldered onto the part with tin; it will be convenient to hold the object by it.

To clean the surface, you need to dip the object to be converted into 10% sodium hydroxide, the temperature of which is 50°C, then into a 15% sulfuric acid solution and hold it there for two minutes, then rinse it in hot water.

When the procedure is completed, the surfaces of the object will be completely cleaned, and of course, you cannot touch them with your hands.

Electrochemical etching of metal

Electrochemical etching of metal

We need to protect areas that should not be etched. To do this, you need to apply a special mastic to these surface areas. It is made from three parts of wax and two parts of rosin, they are melted in a tin can, stirring.

After everything turns into a homogeneous mass, it is allowed to cool and divided into fragments. Each of them is placed in gauze so that later, when pressed, as much mastic as necessary can seep through it. After this, the workpiece that we will etch heats up.

Now we take the created mixture, which was placed in gauze, and rub the surface with an even layer.

After cooling, the mastic becomes hard. The top is coated with light water-soluble paint. This can be watercolor or gouache white. After which the coating should dry. Then you can apply the design; it will stick well to the paint. It can be depicted using a pencil or translated using carbon paper. Then this outline needs to be scratched with a needle all the way to the metal.

Now the etching of the metal by electrolysis begins, we connect one rod to the anode - plus, the other to the cathode - minus. We connect the part on which the image will be applied to the first, and any steel plate to the second. After this, the process of etching the metal begins where the image was scratched.

If you need to create a multi-level drawing, everything is done in the same way as described above. Only the contours are checked each time, and when the smallest of them have been etched to the required depth, the part is removed and painted over with heated mastic using a brush. When it hardens, everything is repeated again until the next level of the drawing. In this process, an image is gradually created.

In this way, metal is etched at home, after which the surface is washed with turpentine and then polished, giving the product a finished look.

Chemical etching

Cleaning the part

To begin with, the part where the image is planned is cleaned with fine sandpaper and degreased. When the surface is ready, you need to seal the place where the design will be applied with adhesive tape or something similar. After this, the entire remaining surface, where chemical etching should not affect the metal, is painted over. It can be of any color, as long as it is resistant to White Spirit.

Once the paint is dry, you can remove the adhesive tape. Beneath it is clean metal, ready to create a design on it. Now you need to apply an image onto this “mini-canvas”. It is made using resin, which is dissolved in White Spirit until it becomes liquid, like paint. Use it to paint the desired image using a brush.

What’s good about this kind of improvised paint is that if something doesn’t work out in the drawing, you can remove it by moistening a cloth or cotton swab in White Spirit. If there are very small details in the drawing that did not turn out well with a brush, they can be corrected with a needle, scraping off the excess after drying.

In this way, you can etch a knife, keys, in general, any metal object. Now that the drawing is completely ready, you can begin the etching itself.

Etching solution

Actions during a chemical reaction

During the reaction, a plaque forms, which will become more and more numerous. It slows down the whole process, so you need to periodically wash it off with water.

You should not do this using various brushes, brushes and other tools, because you can damage the paint.

But it seems to hold the entire design, and it would be a shame if, while etching a knife, for example, you inadvertently damage the design on it. This is a very delicate work that requires a steady hand and patience.

The depth of the pattern directly depends on the time during which the metal remains in the solution. There are no exact criteria, so each master must observe the progress of the chemical reaction himself. And only after doing this several times will it be possible to say with confidence how much time is needed to develop the desired pattern to the intended depth.

Advantages and disadvantages of electrochemical and chemical etching

Advantages and disadvantages of electrochemical and chemical etching

The advantages of electrochemical etching of metal at home include the fact that the created pattern is clearer, this is clearly visible if you look at it with magnification. However, the downside is that this method requires an electrical device, which not everyone may have.

The advantages of chemical etching include the fact that everything you need can be bought at a hardware store. These ingredients are cheap, and, most importantly, you don’t need to look anywhere for a power supply or other devices capable of delivering from 4 to 7 V. However, the disadvantage is the imperfect edges of the pattern.

Source: https://steelfactoryrus.com/travlenie-risunka-na-metalle-svoimi-rukami/

Etching a design on a knife at home

Etching a design on a knife at home

The process of metal etching has been known to people since the 16th century. The most famous masters lived in Italy and Germany. Today, anyone in the world can do knife etching at home. The availability of reagents and many methods allows you to do this without special experience. But it’s definitely worth studying the topic of knife etching.

Etching a design on a knife at home.

The essence of the method

The essence of the method

The key factor is the effect of acidic environments on the metal. Due to the interaction of the aggressive environment and the product, a chemical process called etching occurs. To apply a pattern to the blade, areas of the surface not intended for etching are covered with a protective layer.

It must be resistant to the etching substance. The depth of metal dissolution depends on the time of exposure to it. Since the 16th century, several effective methods for etching knives have been identified. They will be discussed below.

Metal etching methods

Metal etching methods

Acids in the etching technique are used depending on the type of metal. A certain alloy requires its own aggressive substances. The speed and quality of the process depends on this. There are several ways:

• a process involving the use of an electrolyte with current passing through it. They call it electrochemical. Its features are: precise drawing, saving time and working fluid solution. No harmful fumes;
• a process that does not require complex equipment and is incredibly simple - chemical. But the use of liquid acidic solutions is characterized by emissions of fumes harmful to human health into the air;
• A production method that requires expensive equipment is the ion plasma method. Used in dry environments in the field of microelectronics.

The first two methods are widely used for etching knives at home. The components are commercially available and do not require complex manipulations.

Preparing metal for drawing

Preparing metal for drawing

It is necessary to prepare the blade for drawing and for the etching process itself. If the knife is collapsible, be sure to disassemble it. Freeing the blade will make it easier to work. In a one-piece product, the handle must be insulated.

It doesn’t matter what material it is made of, an acidic environment will harm anyone. Electrical tape as an insulator will work perfectly. The surface of the blade to be treated must be thoroughly wiped with acetone. The intended design will fit well on a degreased surface. We try not to touch the workpiece with our fingers.

Drawing methods

Drawing methods

A pattern made from various materials serves as a protective layer; the metal not covered with it will be etched. There is a similarity to a film negative when a photograph is developed. There are plenty of options for protection: electrical tape, stickers, nail polish, vinyl, metal marker and many other polymers.

Nail polish

Nail polish

A popular material among amateurs. But professionals don’t disdain them either. Good resistance to aggressive environments makes it a leader in use. After applying it to the product and letting it dry, it is possible to correct the design with sharp cutting objects. Achieving a clear pattern and smooth lines.

Primer or bitumen varnish

Primer or bitumen varnish

The product is completely covered, then the contours of the design are transferred over the layer with a marker or brush. Having sharpened a thin wire, you need to scratch the sketch down to the metal. The primer is used GF 021 or XB 062. When scratching a sketch, there is a risk of chipping off the dried primer or bitumen varnish. This is a disadvantage of this method.

Glossy paper

Glossy paper

It is a good method that is gaining momentum among masters and has many positive aspects. The required sketch is printed in real size on glossy paper using a laser printer. Applying the side with the pattern to the surface of the blade, you need to iron the paper.

After the product has cooled, it is placed in water. Having brought the paper to a soft state, it peels off, and the toner from the printer remains on the product. You just need to treat the surface around the design with nail polish. The method allows you to transfer the smallest details of the image.

The principle of etching using electrolysis

The principle of etching using electrolysis

For metal products, two methods are used: acid (liquid) and electrochemical. They are used to remove scale and oxide films. Compliance with the etching rules: holding time and solution concentration are the key to a successful process.

It is important to thoroughly degrease the part. A small greasy stain will render all the work of the master unusable. When working with varnishes, you must be careful; they are highly flammable. This also applies to the process itself. In any form, it is unsafe. It must be treated with caution and care.

Solutions used for pickling steel

Solutions used for pickling steel

The process for different alloys requires different etchants. Based on the atomic structure of the metal lattice, a specific solution is selected:

• alkaline solutions etch aluminum and its alloys well;
• nitric, sulfuric, hydrochloric and phosphoric acids are used in the etching of copper and its alloys. To increase the reaction rate, chromium and nitrogen are added;
• For durable titanium, a double etching method is used. Initially processed in alkaline solutions, then in high concentration acidic solutions;
• an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide and formic acid is ideal for nickel and tungsten;
• for other solid metal compounds, mixtures of nitric and acetic acids are used;
• A mild sulfuric acid solution works well on cast iron.

A favorite for etching a knife at home is nitric acid. Sometimes salt is added. They are highly active and must be handled with care.

Instructions for liquid etching of a knife

Instructions for liquid etching of a knife

The chemical method is simpler and does not require batteries. A strong aggressive environment is required. It has already been stated that the method is dangerous due to its gaseous emissions. Opening a window or getting a good hood is a must. Safety equipment:

• latex gloves;
• respirator;
• protective glasses;
• smock.

Avoid contact with mucous membranes of the body. Washing with water will not do. A chemical burn is a terrible thing. We've sorted out the equipment, now it's a matter of materials:

• insulating tape;
• nail polish, marker;
• grinding machine;
• distilled water in a container;
• Plastic container;
• solvent, acetone;
• ferric chloride supply;
• cotton swabs and disks, toothpick;
• sandpaper of various grains.

The knife must be prepared in advance. On a solid product, protect the handle with electrical tape; on a collapsible product, disassemble it and work with the blade separately.

Creating a protective layer

Creating a protective layer

The pattern that needs to be transferred to the product must be outlined with a protective layer. Considering that in the coated area, the reaction will not take place, and the metal will remain light. Initially, make a sketch with a marker and then cover it with nail polish. This is the best option. The varnish can then be adjusted to ensure evenness of the lines and the pattern itself.

Patterns for etching on a knife.

Don’t be shy about fantasizing; the uniqueness of the work performed also depends on the personal qualities of the master. Use varnishes of various shades; they are clearly visible on the surface of the product.

Preparation of the solution

Preparation of the solution

We make sure to use personal protective equipment. When working with acid, you need to have a solution of soda on hand; it will come in handy if an aggressive substance gets on your skin. The rule of all chemists is to pour acid into water, never in the reverse order:

1. The ratio of ferric chloride and water should be 50/50. This is the best option, but to speed up the reaction, other proportions can be used.
2. The plastic container should not be filled entirely; be careful when placing the product there. After pouring a little distilled water, pour in the same amount of ferric chloride.
3. Label the container with the words "Acid" and be careful with it. A metal container is not suitable; there is a possibility of it reacting with the solution.

Please note that the diluted liquid will serve more than once; you can actually process a dozen blades in it. Once dilution of the solution is complete, proceed to the next step.

Etching process