How to deal with corrosion

How to deal with corrosion and rust on a car body?

All car owners have encountered the problem of car body corrosion in one way or another. How to protect a car from rust, are there effective ways to combat the rust disease of car body panels.

Corrosion is a chemical reaction that is accompanied by the oxidation of metal and the destruction of iron. This oxidation occurs when the metal is exposed to oxygen and water.

Any, even microscopic, damage to the paintwork of car body panels leads to water and oxygen reaching the metal, which leads to corrosion. At first there will be small spots, small swellings, so-called corrosion bugs.

However, over time, rust will increasingly affect the metal, and through holes will appear. As a result, expensive body repairs will be required, which involves digesting the metal or replacing body panels damaged by rust.

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Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to protect against rust. Many automakers use aluminum parts for the manufacture of body panels, which are less susceptible to oxidation and perform high-quality galvanization.

However, even this does not help in the fight against metal corrosion.

Quite often, problems with rust appear in cars that have been involved in an accident and were subsequently restored poorly, which soon leads to the need to completely replace body parts.

The rate at which rust appears on a car will directly depend on the quality of the metal and the manufacturability of the production processes being carried out. For example, Japanese and German automakers use high-quality steel. When painting, several layers of protection are applied to the metal at once, which helps prevent the formation of corrosion on body elements.

But Chinese cars and products of the domestic automobile industry are especially susceptible to corrosion.

Therefore, you should not be surprised that literally a few years after purchasing a new car, the first bugs already appear, and by the five-six-year period of operation, rust problems reach their peak, and the car owner has to carry out expensive body repairs.

How to deal with corrosion?

There are two effective ways to combat rust - tread and barrier. Barrier protection usually means primer, paint, mastic and protective varnish.

The main protection of the metal from corrosion in this case is provided by the primer, which is applied to the body panels at the factory during the manufacture of the car. But in a service environment when performing body repairs, it is not possible to apply a high-quality primer.

Accordingly, repaired and replaced body panels will no longer provide high-quality protection, as would be the case with original elements that were installed at the factory.

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It is for this reason that when factory panels offer better corrosion resistance, most buyers look for used options that have never been in an accident. But a car that already had problems with the body is valued worse on the secondary market than non-damaged versions.

Protective protection against rust involves applying a protective layer of galvanization to metal body panels.

This technology was first developed by Audi, which began producing galvanized bodies on its popular Audi 80 and Audi 100 sedans back in the eighties of the last century.

Unfortunately, such tread protection leads to a significant increase in the cost of production of body elements, so today most automakers have abandoned full galvanization of the body.

Corrosion will not spare any modern car. Whether it is an inexpensive domestic car or a luxury Mercedes or BMW, they are all equally susceptible to the risk of corrosion. It is much easier to prevent rust from occurring than to deal with it in the future.

That is why it is necessary to operate the car extremely carefully, avoiding even the slightest damage to the body.

Remember that rust can appear even from a small chip that was formed from a small pebble, and the driver did not paint over the existing scratches in time, which leads to oxidation of the metal body panels.

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In order to protect the body from such minor damage and corrosion, many car owners use ceramic transparent film and so-called liquid glass, which is applied to the body panels, preventing the formation of rust and the appearance of various minor damage to the paint layer.

Such a protective film and applied liquid glass must be renewed every 2-3 years, which slightly leads to an increase in the total cost of owning a vehicle.

However, in this case, the car owner is spared the need for expensive body repairs, and in the future will be able to sell his car at a higher price.

If the car has already shown the first traces of rust, then you need to act as soon as possible. In specialized stores you can purchase a rust converter and anti-corrosion materials that are used to treat such damaged areas, which helps prevent the occurrence of metal oxidation processes. Using high-quality auto chemicals, you can not only stop existing traces of corrosion, but also prevent their development in the future.

The effectiveness of such treatment will largely depend on the degree of damage to the metal structure. If a small area of ​​rust has formed, it is quite possible to solve the problem even by independently treating the damaged areas with various anti-corrosion agents. However, if the metal is deeply damaged, then the use of anti-corrosion agents and even repainting the body will be impossible to solve the problem.

Many car owners mistakenly believe that they can deal with rust by completely repainting the car body. Indeed, by repainting the entire car, you can get rid of corrosion problems for several years.

However, under a layer of primer, paint and varnish, the metal will oxidize and small swellings, pockets of rust and other characteristic symptoms of corrosion will soon appear.

Therefore, if you are faced with the problem of rusting body panels and decide to fight body rot by repainting, then a few years after such restoration repairs are completed, you should think about selling the car. This will allow you to earn some good money and buy another car.

conclusions

There is no car owner who does not face the problem of car rust. Corrosion often occurs when body panels are damaged and repairs are performed poorly.

It is much easier to prevent the appearance of such a red disease by using a protective film or covering the car with liquid glass.

In some cases, treating the sills, fenders and underbody of the car with special anticorrosives and mastics helps fight rust, and any rust bugs that appear on the body are treated with special auto chemicals.

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Source: http://press.lv/post/kak-borotsya-s-korroziej-i-rzhavchinoj-na-kuzove-avtomobilya

How to remove rust from a car body

Stories about the “eternal body” of salespeople at a car dealership very often become a legend. After several years of operation, you can notice the first “bugs” and corrosion will cost only local repairs. However, if you miss even one scratch, rust will trigger an entire rescue operation to restore the integrity of the body.

Causes of rust on a car body

If we consider it from a scientific point of view, corrosion is the oxidation of metal layers under the influence of air and water. As a result of the reaction, compounds of hydrated iron oxide appear on the body - a loose red powder.

In general, the appearance of rust is influenced by :

1. Design factory solutions. Each body is made of thin sheets of metal and, due to its streamlined shape, requires a large number of joints and welding joints. The material chosen by the manufacturer must have minimal resistance to destructive oxidation processes and contain a proportional amount of alloying substances.
2. Exploitation . Even the strongest body will not withstand storage in damp conditions or outdoors, especially in winter. To extend the life of your car, it is better not to neglect timely technical inspection and careful driving style. Roads in Russia cannot boast of their quality. Gravel and salt scratch the paintwork and primer at high speed, causing moisture to fall directly onto the metal layer.

Scientists from Sweden have found that the following are at greater risk of corrosion: sills, pillars, spring bases, bottom, doors and side members.

1. Environmental factors . Residents of humid climates are out of luck here. High temperature differences contribute to the formation of condensation in the hidden cavities of the car. Ideally, it flows through the drainage holes in the sills and “pockets” of the wings. However, as practice shows, in 80% of cases, condensation remains in place due to leaves and other debris in the drainage gutters.

A thin layer of moisture is constantly present on the surface of the body. Depending on environmental factors, different concentrations of aggressive substances remain on the car as the water dries. As a result, corrosion develops according to the following pattern:

1. Rusting under the paintwork.
2. Peeling off paint on areas of rust.
3. Through holes in the body.
4. Damage to welding joints.
5. Destruction of power parts of the body.
6. Deformation of doorways, thresholds, pillars.
7. Loss of vehicle controllability as a result of loss of rigidity of power units.

Types of corrosion on the body and the most common locations

There are two types of metal corrosion :

• Chemical _ Corrosion centers arise due to contact of the metal surface with substances that are not electrolytes. For example: oxidation of metals due to excessive contact with exhaust gases, rust in the fuel system due to additives of hydrogen sulfide, elemental sulfur, mercaptans.
• Electrochemical corrosion. Some areas of the body have different electrical potential. The low value becomes the anode, and the high value becomes the cathode. Each pair forms a short-circuited galvanic cell. As a result, when exposed to electrolytes, only the anodic areas are destroyed, which leads to the formation of rust.

If you neglect corrosion protection during factory assembly or operation, then with 100% probability rust will “eat” the body. Motorists divide types of rust according to their location:

• Non-electrolytes damage the fuel and oil systems.
• Gas - exhaust system, muffler, chamfers of exhaust valve plates of combustion chambers.
• Electrolytes – corrosion due to stagnation of water.
• Contact – deformation in places where the body comes into contact with different electrical potentials.
• Atmospheric – corrosion due to environmental factors.
• Slotted - in narrow places, gaps.
• Structural - appears in places of heterogeneous metal composition.
• In conditions of friction – it affects constant friction units in a corrosive environment.
• Under tension – covers areas of constant voltage.
• Biocorrosion - as a result of the activity of microorganisms.

Washing and drying the car to combat minor corrosion

The first step in the fight against rust is washing. A clean car surface is the key to getting rid of corrosion, since even a small “bug” missed due to inattention can cause great inconvenience in the future.

You can clean the dirt and dust yourself or take the vehicle to a car wash using mechanized means. The engine compartment and luggage compartment must be cleaned for a detailed inspection of the interior surface of the car.

The automotive industry offers various shampoos that not only remove abrasive dust, but also traces of salt and chemical reagents. A pleasant side effect will be the protection of the paintwork. The main thing is that the detergent does not contain toxins, phenols or formaldehydes.

The car must be dried immediately after washing. You can get rid of water droplets using a fan heater or sponge. Natural drying in the sun can lead to staining.

It is also worth noting that you should not forget to clean the body after trips in rainy and slushy weather. This will protect microcracks from clogging. The water temperature during washing should match the air temperature. Sudden changes in temperature damage the metal and wear it out. Using even warm water during cold periods poses a danger to the vehicle.

Elimination of corrosion by electrochemical method

The active cathodic protection method is known as the electrochemical method. It is based on the same principle that provokes electrochemical corrosion. Cathodic protection is a method of restoring one metal and destroying another in the process of their mechanical interaction.

To do this, you will need an electrolyte, a direct current source, and metals with different electrochemical activity relative to iron. First you need to prepare the surface: remove the rust. The electrode is less active than metal and is connected to the charger or to the positive terminal of the battery. The electrode or workpiece must be treated with acid. When the electrode approaches the surface of the electrolyte, bubbling will begin due to the decomposition of ferum hydroxide.

To protect the repair site, you can apply a layer of more active metal to the part and also connect it to a continuous current source. When performing the same actions, galvanization is formed on the surface of the hydrolysis object.

After this, you can wash off the remaining electrolytes from the surface and begin priming and painting. However, if you don’t want to bother with improvised means, there is a ready-made set of materials on the shelves of car stores. It is enough for 1 m2 of body surface.

Mechanical method of removing rust

For mechanical cleaning it is customary to use abrasives. For example: using an iron brush you can remove rust on the surface of the body. Disadvantage: It takes a lot of time and effort to clean the entire car body by hand. To make your life easier, you can use a grinder. Using a sanding disc, you need to clean out the corrosion areas by 6–8 mm, and then clean them with fine-grained sandpaper until completely smooth.

To clean large metal objects, it is better to use sandblasters - a mixture of sand and water is supplied under pressure to the “contaminated” area, which effectively fights rust. When working, it is necessary to control the pressure with which the mixture acts on the metal, since if the pressure is too strong, the body can be deformed.

The thickness of the walls being processed must be at least 1 cm, otherwise it threatens the appearance of new holes.

You can get acquainted with the technology for removing rust from the surface of the body in the video:

Tools and materials for DIY rust control

Depending on the chosen rust control method, you will need a different arsenal of tools. However, you definitely need to stock up on patience, detergents and clean rags.

Those who do not want to get their hands dirty on grinding discs and understand the hydrolysis process can take advantage of innovative methods of combating corrosion. Recently, converting reagents have become particularly popular, they simply turn red dust into a gray substance that is easily washed off from the surface of the vehicle.

1. "Rust neutralizer BCH-1." Apply to the area of ​​rust and remove it with a rag after a while.
2. Orthophosphate acid.
3. Set of zinc sprays. Although it does not remove corrosion, it forms a film on its surface that prevents further destruction of the metal.

Working with the body after removing rust: preparation, priming, painting

Immediately after cleaning the corrosion areas, the surface must be thoroughly degreased and primed. However, if the factory primer remains on the metal, there is no need to apply a new one. Primer, first of all, ensures better application of paint and putty. There are several types: leveler, sealant and epoxy primer.

After complete drying, the body is puttied. It is possible to apply several layers of putty, but each of them must be cleaned until completely smooth. After that, another layer of primer is applied and the car is sent for painting.

Corrosion prevention and rust protection

It is necessary to begin to resolve this issue even when purchasing. It is worth remembering that different manufacturers use different types of metals to make structures. For example, BMW and Mersedes cars react more steadfastly to the influence of destructive factors, and Opel quickly rusts even in dry weather.

When buying budget cars, it is worth remembering that manufacturers often skimp on quality and use thin steel in production, which quickly becomes unusable. Therefore, when buying a car, you should focus not on the brand and make, but on the technical characteristics.

During operation of the vehicle, it is necessary to “look after” it, namely:

• keep in a dry and well-ventilated area;
• do not neglect car wash using shampoos;
• In case of painting, follow the technology. Corrosion does not form due to a thin layer of paint, but due to cracks and chips on it;
• Carry out regular vehicle inspections. Ideally, this is best done once every 1–2 years;
• use various anti-corrosion agents, wax.

The main enemy of a car is rust. Today there are many ways to combat rust. However, in order for the iron horse to serve faithfully for many years, it is better to prevent the occurrence of corrosion. Even the smallest “bug” can provoke major body work.

Source: https://pricurivatel.ru/kak-ubrat-rzhavchinu-s-kuzova-avtomobilya.html

How to remove rust from a car body with your own hands, with or without painting

Even when buying a new car from the showroom, the happy owner understands that only 5-6 years will pass and he will encounter the first signs of such a phenomenon as corrosion of the metal of the car body. In order to prevent this process from progressing, it is necessary to take timely measures to remove small “bugs” and operate the car carefully, especially in winter, when the metal is most susceptible to the influence of external factors.

If traces of corrosion are already noticeable on the body, you need to start taking action. There are many ways to remove rust from a car body, and you can do the work yourself, saving on service station services. The most popular are three methods: mechanical, chemical and hydrolysis, each has its own characteristics and disadvantages.

What is rust and why does it appear on the body?

Sooner or later, rust occurs regardless of the care conditions and age of the car. By its nature, this is the result of metal oxidation under the influence of external factors such as precipitation, sun, and chemicals used on roads. From a physics point of view, this is a natural process, but for car enthusiasts it can become a real headache.

There are several main reasons for the appearance of so-called “bugs” on the body:

• wear of the protective layers of solutions that are applied to the metal during production;
• the appearance of microcracks in the paint under the influence of weather conditions;
• participation of the car in an accident, in which in any case the integrity of the paint and varnish finish is compromised;
• lack of necessary ventilation during garage storage;
• the influence of salt, sand and other chemicals that get on the body while driving.

It should be noted that despite the fact that metal corrosion always appears gradually, in the absence of proper car care the process can occur quite rapidly.

It is best to deal with rust immediately after the first signs of metal destruction appear and not wait until it “spreads” to other areas.

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How to get rid of rust mechanically

This method of combating car metal corrosion can be used for self-repair; it involves cleaning the areas damaged by bugs and re-processing and painting them in order to prevent the further spread of red spots.

To work you will need:

• sandpaper or brush, the grain size depends on the degree of damage to the body;
• masking tape;
• special cosmetic enamel;
• rust remover;
• cloths for washing and cleaning.

Complete rust removal

The algorithm for removing rust is as follows:

1. Clean the surface of the car from dust and dirt at a car wash or yourself.
2. Sand the areas damaged by corrosion down to clean, undamaged metal using sandpaper, being careful not to touch any excess areas of paint that are not damaged by red spots.
3. Wipe the cleaned areas thoroughly and degrease them if necessary.
4. Using masking tape, cover the areas around the areas that will be painted.
5. Spray the solvent and wait for it to take effect.
6. Paint over the treated areas on the body after the converter has completely dried; you can apply a clear varnish on top.

Note! After the paint dries, the car will look much better, but painting with enamel is only suitable for small damage.

The advantages of this method of combating “bugs” include:

• cost-effectiveness, since the work can be completed without the involvement of a specialist;
• accessibility, because buying the necessary materials will not be difficult;
• efficiency, effectiveness of the method from the first time of treatment.

Among the disadvantages is the difficulty of carrying out work on large areas of corrosion damage and, accordingly, the labor intensity of such a process. When removing a large area of ​​paint, it can be difficult to choose a shade that does not stand out against the overall background of the body color.

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Chemical method for removing rust from a car body

The convenience and effectiveness of using various chemicals to combat rust on car metal is used by many car owners. The simplicity of this method makes it accessible to all beginners in the repair business, and the range of products allows you to choose a product that suits your wallet. The most popular chemical compositions for removing “bugs” are:

• Antirzhavin;
• Phosphamite;
• Ortamet;
• Neomid;
• Deoxyl.

Antirzhavin

The substances are sold in most car enthusiast stores.

The procedure for working with chemicals is simple:

1. Be sure to use protection for your hands and face.
2. Before applying the product to the area with rust, you should cover the areas of the body that are nearby with film, tape or other materials so that during work the chemicals do not dissolve the paint on the “healthy” area.
3. Treatment is carried out by spraying or applying liquid with a cloth until the rust stains completely disappear.
4. After the procedure is successfully completed, the treated areas should be cleaned with fine sandpaper.
5. Be sure to apply a couple of layers of primer to prevent future corrosion.
6. After complete drying, the body is painted.

The main advantages of this method of processing the body include the ease of work, minimal time expenditure and the absence of the need to purchase additional tools.

The disadvantages are the high probability of damaging the coating near the place of treatment with chemicals, as well as the dissolution of the protective layers of metal that were applied during the production process along with rust. It is also important to take into account that this method will not help with large areas affected by corrosion and you will have to additionally use mechanical cleaning.

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Electrochemical method

The galvanic method can be used in the presence of special chemicals and the possibility of exposure to electric current on the car body. Provided that the car has small pockets of red spots, you can independently use special kits sold in car stores. Getting rid of corrosion occurs according to the following algorithm:

1. Purchase and preparation of a special kit for electrochemical processing, it usually includes: a solution for removing rust, a solution for galvanizing, two special electrodes, a connecting wire and detailed instructions for use.
2. The wire is connected on one side to the car battery, and on the other to the electrode for preparing the surface.
3. A solution is applied to the electrode to remove corrosion.
4. The metal is cleaned using an electrode from “bugs” and dirt residues deep in the coating using smooth movements. At the end of the procedure, be sure to rinse everything with plenty of water.
5. The electrode and solution are replaced with those that remained intact in the kit.
6. Using an electrode, this solution is applied to the previously prepared surface until it becomes dull.

The undeniable advantages of hydrolysis include:

• deep and complete elimination of corrosion;
• the possibility of applying a new protective layer, which allows you to protect yourself from the reappearance of “bugs”;
• low time costs.

The disadvantages of this method include the high cost of the work kit and the fact that without additional tools it will not be possible to apply this method to large areas of damage.

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How to prevent rust from appearing on a car body

Of course, prevention is always better than cure, and this rule also applies to identifying and eliminating rust. To protect your car from corrosion, you must regularly perform the following actions:

1. Regular car washing in winter, when the roads are generously sprinkled with salt and chemicals, which have a bad effect on the condition of the paint and varnish coating. It is important to carry out the necessary washing with warm water and dry the car thoroughly so that moisture does not freeze in the microcracks of the paint and does not provoke their expansion, which will directly lead to the appearance of “saffron caps”.

   Car washing in winter

2. From time to time, you should carefully inspect the body for the presence of pockets of rust, since at the initial stage it is easier to deal with this problem.
3. Preparing the car for the winter period by applying a special anti-corrosion coating to areas that are most susceptible to oxidation, such as the bottom, arches, and sills.
4. Storing the car in a garage that has a ventilation system.
5. Wax your car on a regular basis. The product will fill microcracks and prevent their expansion.

   Car waxing

You should not neglect these rules in order to maintain the appearance of your car at the highest level and avoid staining of body parts due to rust. And if the “saffron milk caps” have become noticeable to the naked eye, you need to urgently take action.

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Common Questions

What is the best way to remove paint from metal?

The easiest way is to use special chemicals designed to remove paint; they can be either organic or alkaline based. When working with such chemicals, it is necessary to use a respirator, but they make the process of removing paint quick and easy.

Can putty be applied to bare metal without a primer?

No, first, when processing metal, a primer is used, which covers invisible cracks and imperfections in the metal surface, cementing its structure; after drying, putty should be applied to level the surface and achieve smoothness of the body, since its viscous structure does not make it possible to properly repair cracks and chips invisible to the eye on metal.

Why is it better to use a vinyl stripping wheel?

This device allows you to deeply clean a layer of paint in a short period of time, while you can adjust the hardness of such circles, because they have different degrees of it. A vinyl wheel is used on a grinding machine, which gives the advantage of speed of work and its mechanization, allowing you to save effort when restoring a car.

When the first signs of “bugs” appear on the body, you should immediately begin to fight them, because in the early stages corrosion develops slowly and does not cover large areas of metal. There are several options for dealing with this problem that do not require contacting specialists or visiting a service station, allowing you to significantly save money, but requiring time and certain skills.

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The most effective methods of combating body rust

Every car enthusiast has at least once encountered the problem of corrosion on the body of his favorite car. However, do not despair, since today there are a huge number of means and methods of combating this unpleasant phenomenon. In this material we would like to talk about the most effective and popular of them.

Short description

Several different methods help fight rust. Next we will talk in detail about each of them. It is worth noting that each of these methods has its pros and cons. In most cases, specialists and car enthusiasts use special chemicals.

If you want to prevent the appearance of corrosion, then for the purpose of prevention, the body needs to be treated with an anti-corrosive agent or at least a special film should be glued to hidden elements, the bottom, sills, etc., which will protect them from this unpleasant phenomenon.

First, let's figure out why a car starts to rust. First of all, I would like to clarify that there are 4 types of corrosion:

• chemical;
• electrochemical;
• oxygen;
• hydrogen

If we talk about cars, then only the first two options are relevant to them. Now let’s take a closer look at how to deal with it and what will help you in this difficult “war”.

How to deal with corrosion

First of all, every motorist must protect the car body as much as possible so that rust does not occur on it for as long as possible. The first protection option is barrier, the second is tread. In the first case, the surface of the body is treated with special compounds, in the second, its surface is galvanized.

However, what to do if the body has already begun to rust? As mentioned earlier, there are 3 options in total. Let's take a closer look at each of them:

• passive. This option involves careful use of body paint. That is, the motorist must protect the car from chips, cracks or scratches on the surface of the body. This includes constant washing, application of wax and other products;
• active. In this case, it is necessary to use special anti-corrosion agents, for example, mastics. They differ from each other in composition and areas to which they can be applied. For example, an anti-gravel coating is applied to the bottom of the car;
• electrochemical. This option involves installing a special electronic device. It is equipped with an electrode. It is he who takes the entire blow (in our case, corrosion) upon himself. That is, it is not the body that will become rusty, but the electrode. This method is distinguished by its effectiveness, but the disadvantage is its high price.

Methods for removing rust from a car body

Now let's look at methods that allow you to remove rust from a vehicle body. First of all, it can be removed from the surface of the body mechanically. To do this, take sandpaper, abrasive wheels, a grinder and sandblast. The last tool will allow you to get rid of rust with the greatest efficiency.

If you work with sandblasting, be sure to use personal protective equipment.

You can also use chemical compounds to remove rust. For example, a solution of hydrochloric acid. You need to make a weak solution, apply it and remove it a little later. Many specialists use converters and modifiers. They convert rust into a layer of phosphates.

To remove corrosion yourself, you must follow the following plan:

• degrease the surface;
• to remove rust, use a brush with metal bristles; sandpaper will also work;
• remove rust;
• Prime the cleaned surface well;
• paint.

Do not forget to check the condition of the welds while operating the machine. It is on them, as well as on the arches and bottom, that the deepest rust occurs, because of which the car will simply begin to rot very quickly.

Even the smallest brown spot can lead to a loss of strength and ductility of the metal. After which the destruction of the body will begin.

Moreover, this phenomenon often occurs not only on iron, but also on aluminum or on a body made of stainless steel.

Popular chemicals for rust control

Today, in specialized stores you can find dozens of different rust converters. However, it makes no sense to give recommendations for the purchase of a specific product, since one or the other option will not always be available in a particular region. But there are means that are very common and are very popular among car enthusiasts:

• "Tsinkar";
• "SF-1";
• Bitumast;
• Sonax;
• Runway.

It is important to note that any converter will be able to “overcome” rust no more than 0.1 centimeter thick. If corrosion could penetrate deeper into the car body, then the active components of the substance will not be able to remove the rust. In this case, it is better to remove it mechanically.

The best battle is the one that never happened. It is better to try in various ways to prevent the appearance of rust than to fight it later. One of the most effective options is galvanizing the body. However, this pleasure is not cheap, so not everyone can afford it. The body can also be treated with mastic, which will slow down the process of “aging” and rusting of the metal.

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Source: https://reedr.ru/auto/kak-borotsya-so-rzhavchinoj-kuzova-sposoby-proverennye-vremenem/

How to deal with car corrosion

Corrosion! Hearing this word, every motorist will probably shudder. After all, it is she who slowly but surely destroys the car body. And any driver knows that if there is no body, then there is no car.

What is corrosion from a scientific point of view? This is the destruction of metal as a result of an electrochemical reaction. Oxygen and water are required for its flow. If salts are present in the water, they accelerate the course of corrosion.

The water temperature also plays an important role: the lower it is, the more alkaline the water reaction becomes - corrosion occurs more actively. This is why cars rust much faster in the autumn and winter.

articles

• 1 Protection with barriers
• 2 Self-protection against corrosion

Protection with barriers

How do automakers protect their bodies? If the metal is protected from access to water and air, then a corrosion reaction will not occur. Modern protection should consist of five anti-corrosion layers. The first layer, or, as experts say, the barrier, is a zinc coating. Why zinc? Here again we need to go a little deeper into the science.

Any two metals, if dipped into an electrolyte, form a galvanic couple, or, to put it simply, a “battery”. But where the current will flow depends on their electrochemical potential. The metal with a higher potential will become the “plus” of the battery (anode), the metal with a lower potential will become the “minus” (cathode).

During the reaction, the anode, releasing ions, is destroyed, while the cathode, on the contrary, is restored at the expense of the anode.

The electrochemical potential of zinc is greater than that of iron. This means that when an electrochemical reaction occurs under the influence of water (which serves as an electrolyte), the anode will be a layer of zinc, and the cathode will be the car body.

Consequently, zinc is gradually destroyed, but iron remains unharmed for the time being. The thicker the zinc layer, the longer it will protect the iron from rust. There are other metals with a potential greater than that of iron, for example, chromium, magnesium, aluminum.

But zinc turned out to be the most acceptable option from a technological point of view.

The next layer is the primary primer. Its purpose is to “stick” well to the metal, creating the basis for subsequent layers. Inhibitors are also added to this layer - substances that slow down corrosion. But how can you ensure that the soil covers the entire surface of the body, even in hidden cavities? Previously, the finished body was simply dipped into baths of soil, but up to 20% of the surface remained unprimed.

Then another technology came to replace it - anodic priming or anaphoresis. “Plus” is applied to the body, “minus” is applied to the primer bath. As you know, opposite charges attract, so the primer is deposited on the body. The proportion of unpainted surfaces is reduced to 5%. This priming method is still used in most domestic factories. But the most modern technology is cathodic priming (cataphoresis).

The fundamental difference from anaphoresis is in polarity: “minus” is applied to the body, “plus” is applied to the primer.

Anaphoresis coating has good adhesion (“stick”), but poor corrosion resistance and low impact resistance. Cataphoretic primer has worse adhesion, but with a smaller coating thickness it provides two to three times greater resistance to corrosion.

The third barrier is primer-filler (filler). Its task is to fill all the pores through which moisture can penetrate and create an even, smooth surface for applying paint. The fourth and fifth layers are paint and varnish, which, in addition to protective, also perform an aesthetic function.

Impressive, isn't it? It seems that there is an insurmountable barrier to corrosion. However, there is one big “but”! Leading automakers use such perfect body protection only on expensive models.

If the car (or manufacturer) is ordinary, then to save money the thickness of any layer may be reduced, cheaper materials or application technologies may be used, or one of the barriers may be absent altogether.

You can probably count the car brands that offer a long-term warranty against perforation corrosion on the fingers of one hand! Therefore, even a new car needs additional anti-corrosion treatment.

Self-protection against corrosion

Four drugs are now mainly used in the anti-corrosion services market: Tektil, produced by the Dutch company Valvolin, the Swedish Mercasol and Dinitrol, and the Swiss Vaxoil.

All of them are approximately equal in terms of consumer qualities, only Vaxoil has a high price (Switzerland, in a word). Valvolin produces three types of anticorrosive: “Tektil”, “Tektil-bronze” and “Tektil-zinc”.

The first is the most ancient, the second is more recent, and the third is the most modern. Other companies also have in their arsenal products for every budget.

The Canadian drug “Rust-Stop” deserves a separate discussion. In composition, purpose, and properties, it is radically different from other anticorrosive agents. The drug does not prevent the appearance of corrosion, but destroys its existing foci, and therefore is not used for application to new cars.

“Rust-Stop” is made from vegetable oils and has a much thinner consistency than mastic preparations. Thanks to this, it easily penetrates into all seams, cracks, pores, hidden cavities, displacing moisture from there, and the inhibitors included in its composition destroy rust.

“Rust-Stop” does not harden, but remains in a semi-liquid state throughout its entire service life, covering surfaces and filling newly formed coating defects.

How to find a suitable workshop? The surest way is to visit the website of any of the manufacturers. There you will first of all learn that the drug “xxx” is unique, and, naturally, the best. But, in addition, you can find the addresses of dealership centers, official partners and service stations. Yes, by the way, you can still glean information about the shortcomings of competitors' products.

Body parts are subject to corrosion to varying degrees during operation. First of all, it occurs on its lower surfaces, which are damaged due to impacts from stones, sand, etc.

Next in the “risk group” are all kinds of hidden and poorly ventilated cavities in which moisture accumulates. The body quickly rusts in places where body repairs have taken place.

Well, most of all, rust loves the joints of body panels, folding, kinks, seams - in general, all kinds of surface connections.

The technology for applying anticorrosive coating is simple, and the car owner can easily control it in order to assess the conscientiousness and competence of the technician. The first stage is a thorough washing with water under pressure with preliminary dismantling of wheels, fender liners, all kinds of shields, etc. While the car is drying, the technician must carefully examine the underbody. The swollen old mastic must be removed and the rust must be cleaned.

The final, main stage is applying mastic. For the vast majority of models (including domestic ones), anticorrosion manufacturers have technological maps for applying the coating. In particular, they indicate the technological holes available on the car and the places where additional holes need to be drilled to process hidden cavities. After processing, they must be plugged with special plugs.

Therefore, the presence of such a card in the hands of a master indicates a serious approach to the matter.

When applying Rust-Stop, only the surfaces are washed; the old coating is not removed. To protect seams, joints and hidden cavities, the composition “Rust-Stop A” is used - a semi-liquid preparation of pink color. For application to the bottom, use a more viscous “Rust-Stop B” of yellow color.

The car is processed from top to bottom: glass installation locations, engine compartment and trunk, hidden cavities of doors, thresholds, and bottom. Anticorrosive coating is not applied to the paintwork! The exception is “Rust-Stop” for rust-affected areas. The paint will fall off over time, but the corrosion will stop.

If the treatment is done with a proprietary preparation, you can drive a car immediately after finishing the work (preferably in the first three to four hours, not on sand or rocks). The chemical smell should dissipate within an hour. If this is not the case, it is quite possible that your car was counterfeited. The above does not apply to “Rust-Stop”. Its components themselves are odorless; the manufacturer adds various pleasant aromas to the finished composition.

The service life of the mastic coating, depending on the quality, ranges from three to five years. If the anticorrosive has lost its elasticity or cracks have appeared, it’s time to refresh it. “Rust-stop” lasts about two years.

Source: https://avtonov.info/kak-borotsja-s-korroziej-avtomobilja/amp

Ways to combat corrosion

Ways to combat corrosion - advice from professionals

The process by which metals are destroyed by exposure to the external environment is called corrosion.

About ten percent of new steel fails each year due to corrosion.

Also for steel, this process is usually called “rusting”.
The main damage that corrosion causes is not the loss of the metal itself, but the very high value of the products that are destroyed. The main losses are determined not only by the cost of the structure and the cost of anti-corrosion protection, but also by equipment downtime while damaged parts are being replaced and the technological process is disrupted.

Corrosive effects bring huge losses, greatly undermining the budget of enterprises, so various methods of combating corrosion are widely used.

What are the types of corrosion?

There is a chemical and electrochemical corrosion process.
Chemical corrosion destroys metal as a result of its exposure to aggressive environments. For example, the process of iron oxidation.

Electrochemical corrosion destroys metals when they dissolve in a liquid medium - an electrolyte, and microgalvanic cells are formed on their surface.

Fight against corrosion processes

There are three main types of protection:

• Active protection
• Passive protection
• Structural protection

Active methods of combating corrosion work by changing the structure of the electric field. A constant electric field is imposed by a direct current source, as a result of which the electrode potential of the metal increases. Another way is to use a sacrificial anode, which breaks down and thereby protects the treated surface.

Passive control methods include the use of various paints and varnishes. Enamels and varnishes isolate metals from air, acids, water and the external environment in general. Galvanization not only insulates from the environment, even if the layer is damaged, but also does not allow corrosion to develop.

There are various ways to apply protective coatings to metals. For example, galvanizing can be carried out using thermal spraying, in a hot shop, or even in a cold shop. Painting with enamels and varnishes is carried out using a brush or roller, as well as spraying.

Do not forget that metal surfaces should be carefully prepared before applying protective coatings. The entire range of methods for protecting against corrosion damage depends on how the surface was cleaned before application.

Structural protection is determined by the use of rubber gaskets, various alloys, and so on.

The company Docker Chemical GmbH Rus offers a wide range of products to combat corrosion.

NITTRON - Neutral rust converter with enhanced inhibitors

Source: http://DockerSpb.ru/udalenie-rzhavchiny/sposoby-borby-s-korroziej

How to deal with car corrosion, yourself or turn to professionals?

Metal products are subject to corrosion, including cars. Rust formations cannot always be noticed in time. And often vehicle owners begin to take action when traces of rust become clearly visible.

When exposed to corrosion, metal quickly breaks down, turning into dust. This not only spoils the appearance of the car, but also significantly affects its performance properties.

In the future, it may be necessary to completely replace part of the body or a certain part of the vehicle.

To prevent such a situation, it is necessary to take timely measures. Remember that proper vehicle care will help you avoid significant financial costs. And the car will be in decent and serviceable condition.

Causes

The cause of corrosion is unfavorable operating conditions of the vehicle. Even modern anti-corrosion treatments are not able to eliminate this fact.

The climate in our country creates harsh conditions for a car:

seasonal precipitation in the form of rain and snow;

sudden changes in temperature;

increased air humidity;

chemical reagents used to combat ice on roads;

high concentration of salts and sulfur in the air of large cities.

Poor quality road surfaces lead to the formation of small chips, scratches and cracks on the metal body of the car. And these formations accelerate the process of corrosion development.

The appearance of rust is influenced by the storage and maintenance conditions of the vehicle. It is cars that remain idle for a long time that are most susceptible to corrosion. When moving, the body is exposed to oncoming air flows, thereby creating conditions that are least favorable for the formation of rust.

Methods of protection

Rust is a chemical process that requires water and oxygen. These elements are found everywhere in the environment. Therefore, it is impossible to completely eliminate the causes of the occurrence and spread of rust on the metal surface of the body. Special products that can prevent the formation of corrosion for a certain time.

Not all parts of a car are equally susceptible to corrosion. There are places that are more susceptible to the process. Rust appears more often in the following places:

• in the lower part of the body, located on the outside;
• on the inner surfaces of doors, thresholds, pillars, side members.
• on sharp edges of the body;
• in places of rolling and bends;
• on welds.

Protective methods for the car body:

• 1.anaphoresis (passive) - the surface is covered with a primer and then paint. Regularly check the integrity of the protective layer to ensure that there are no cracks or chips. It is also recommended to wash the car at least once a week and regularly wax the surface;
• 2. cataphoresis (active) - treatment with special protective agents (mastic, anti-corrosion materials, sealants) of the most susceptible to corrosion parts of the vehicle body (sills, arches, bottom). Apply exclusively to a clean and dry surface;
• 3.galvanization (electrochemical) - body parts are coated with a layer of galvanic zinc, which reacts chemically with the metal surface. The result is a reliable protective coating that is resistant to corrosion.

The types of protection differ in the priming method and complement each other. Reliable - galvanized, but also expensive.

Ways to combat corrosion

When rust appears on the car body, it is necessary to treat the damaged areas with a special product - a rust converter.

This forms a protective coating that prevents the further spread of corrosion and protects the surface from new influences.

Modern rust converters contain phosphoric acid, which can convert rust and clean the surface. Mastic or paint coating is applied to the treated surface.

Rust can also be removed using a weak alkaline acid solution. After treatment, the surface is treated with a metal brush or sandpaper. It is important to follow the instructions and precautions.

Follow preventive measures to help prevent corrosion. It is recommended to use only contactless washing in specialized services. Do not use sponges containing metal elements: they can scratch and damage the paintwork of the car. Treat the surface regularly with hot wax. This will help protect the car from dirt and water.

Body polishing is also necessary (once every three months). But polishing cannot prevent the appearance of small cracks and chips. They need to be processed immediately as they appear. For the procedure, a special tinting pencil is used.

To prevent the formation and spread of corrosion, it is recommended to regularly inspect the components of the gearbox and vehicle body.

Therefore, it is better to contact a specialized car service DDCAR, where technicians will be able to promptly identify traces of damage and prevent the appearance of rust by treating the area and applying a special anti-corrosion coating.

Preventive inspections are carried out during periods of unfavorable weather conditions (autumn, winter).

Source: https://ddcar.ru/blog/kuzovnoy-remont/kak-borotsya-s-korroziey-chitay

Effective methods of combating car body corrosion. how to remove corrosion with your own hands - AvtoSovet

To remove rust from a car body, it is not at all necessary to contact a company car service center. Many car enthusiasts can remove small stains of corrosion and chipped paint on the car body, doors or hood with their own hands. Removing rust from the body will extend the life of your car and improve its appearance.

Pockets of rust on the body can appear both from the “aging” of the car, and as a result of careless handling of it. For example, once you open the door carelessly, the chips are right there. It’s unclear what to do about this: repainting a door is expensive, and driving with them is fraught with consequences.

Also on our website you may be interested in the following articles:

And so, we propose to consider the main ways to independently remove rust from a car body.

How to remove rust from a car body with your own hands

There are several ways to get rid of rust on a car body, but in this material we will look at only the two simplest methods that almost every car enthusiast can handle with his own hands.

1. Removing rust mechanically;
2. Removing rust using an electrochemical method.

The first method is very cheap, but at the same time more labor-intensive, and the second is quite simple, but the cost of the materials used can sometimes be slightly higher than in the first case.

After removing the rust, it will be advisable to paint over the damaged area on the car body, regardless of which of the methods listed above you choose.

For these purposes, in many cases, cosmetic enamel in the form of a small bubble with a brush, reminiscent of nail polish, is excellent. You can select such enamel to match the color of the body using a fan catalog available in any car shop with a car paint department.

The procedure for removing rust by mechanical and electrochemical methods, as well as their advantages and disadvantages, we will consider below.

Removing rust from a car body mechanically

Removing rust mechanically involves cleaning areas susceptible to corrosion to bare metal using sandpaper or a wire brush.

After cleaning, such places need to be treated with a rust converter and painted over.

Advantages of mechanical rust removal:

1. The ability to remove large areas and complex areas with “swelling” of paint, active “raised” corrosion;
2. Everything you need to remove rust can be bought at any automotive or even hardware store;
3. Low cost of materials used.

The disadvantage of this method of dealing with rust is that it is quite labor intensive, as well as the duration of the process itself.

To remove rust mechanically we will need:

• any rust converter;
• masking tape;
• a little sandpaper;
• cosmetic enamel;
• rags for washing and cleaning.

If the damaged areas are severely corroded, then you need to use coarser sandpaper (grain size 120) or a wire brush. But in most cases, fine sandpaper with 400 or 600 grit will be enough to remove rust.

The operating procedure is as follows:

1. Before starting work, wash the car thoroughly so that all damaged areas are clearly visible - instructions on how to properly wash the car.
2. Using sandpaper or a brush, the rust must be cleaned down to bare metal. You should not get too carried away with this process, so as not to remove the paint near the damaged area.
3. The cleaned surface must be wiped and, if necessary, degreased (depending on the rust converter you use).
4. Cover with masking tape the parts of the body adjacent to the damaged area that will not be treated.
5. Treat the prepared area with a rust converter to protect the metal from the spread of corrosion in the future. Most of these preparations convert rust into primer, which improves paint adhesion.
6. After the rust converter has completely dried, tint the repair areas with cosmetic enamel.

The last sixth point refers to small-area damage. If large areas of the body elements were subject to rust (for example, sills or cavities under bumpers), then cosmetic enamel is not enough - these places will have to be puttied, primed and painted. For more information on how to do this, see our car painting instructions.

Removing rust from a car body using an electrochemical method

By electrochemical method of rust removal we mean carrying out redox reactions on damaged areas of the body in an electrolyte solution under the influence of electric current.

At first glance it seems that this is very difficult. But in fact, this process is the simplest and most reliable way to get rid of rust and protect the body from corrosion for many years.

Advantages of the electrochemical method:

1. Complete removal of rust from damaged areas of the body;
2. Application or restoration of a protective layer of zinc using the electrolytic method;
3. Safety for car paintwork, due to the absence of phosphoric acid in the solutions;
4. The result is achieved in a short period of time - no more than an hour for everything;
5. Easy to use.

Among the disadvantages, we can note that the technology of electrochemical metal cleaning does not allow one to cope with large areas of through corrosion without additional technical means (cold welding, soldering, etc.).

In auto stores, a Zinkor-Auto kit for local removal of rust and subsequent galvanizing of the body surface costs about 1,500-1,600 rubles, but in many online stores you can buy it cheaper.

The set includes:

• Solution No. 1 for degreasing and rust removal;
• Solution No. 2 for applying a protective zinc coating;
• Electrode No. 1 made of stainless steel for surface preparation;
• Electrode No. 2 with a zinc tip for applying a protective coating;
• Connecting wire;
• Instructions.

The kit is designed to process up to 1 square meter of surface.

The process of removing rust using an electrochemical method is simple (see video below):

1. We connect the connecting wire with an alligator clip to the car battery, and the other end to electrode No. 1 from the kit;
2. We wet the connected electrode No. 1 in solution No. 1 to degrease and remove rust;
3. Using smooth, uniform movements, we clean the metal surface from any remaining dirt and rust, after which we wash off the remaining solution with plenty of water;
4. We connect electrode No. 2 to the wire and wet the electrode swab in solution No. 2;
5. Using light, uniform movements of the electrode, apply solution No. 2 over the entire working surface until the surface of the stripped metal darkens and becomes more matte.

To apply a durable protective layer up to 15 microns thick, 2-3 minutes is enough. The whole process is clearly shown in the video below.

how to get rid of rust on a car body using the Zinkor-Auto kit

Source: https://razborkadonskoe.ru/obsluzhivanie/effektivnye-metody-borby-s-korroziej-kuzova-avto-kak-ubrat-korroziyu-svoimi-rukami.html

All about rust on the car body and methods of combating it

The operational capabilities of a vehicle depend on its performance. This indicator is associated with various conditions, one of which is the presence of rust. A rusty machine is not able to fully perform its functions and requires repair work. If rust is not removed in a timely manner, it will continue to grow until the car fails. Therefore, if corrosion is detected, it should be eliminated as quickly as possible.

Causes of rust

Many car owners know little about corrosion. Rust occurs due to an electrochemical reaction, as a result of which the bodywork gradually turns into iron oxide. Areas affected by the reaction become corroded. Participating in the reaction:

• anode - a metal component of the body;
• electrolyte – water with a slight salt content;
• cathode - a metal surface exposed to electrolytes.

Thus, if during use the vehicle periodically comes into contact with water, rust appears. In most cases, corrosion affects areas of joints and chips.

Rust occurs more often in winter. This is because chemical renegades used by utilities contain salts that act as an electrolyte.

Types of corrosion

Body corrosion is divided into two types:

1. Dry. This type of rust occurs when the vehicle is stored in a dry place. Dry corrosion is characterized by dulling of the surface on the car, but no visible source is detected. Dry rust can be overcome with the help of special substances.
2. Wet. It appears in the form of pronounced zones of surface damage. If rust is not removed in a timely manner, it will increase. The presence of through corrosion can lead to serious damage.

Depending on the type of rust, a method for removing it is selected.

Stages of emergence

Rust usually occurs after an accident. But under normal conditions it is a natural process characterized by three stages:

• at the first stage, car corrosion affects the joints of parts - it is eliminated with sandpaper or other improvised means;
• the second stage is known as “subfilm” - it is manifested by an emerging lesion surrounded by swollen paint;
• the third stage is characterized by damage to the metal body and the appearance of holes in it - such damage to the metal can be eliminated with the help of a full restoration of the body.

To prevent the first stage from flowing into subsequent ones, the car is periodically inspected for chips, impacts, and changes in paint color. If you notice early when rust damage begins, you can prevent serious problems.

Corrosion of painted surface

The paint coating performs the protective function of the car coating. The painted surface is protected from corrosion thanks to:

• water-repellent properties;
• low gas permeability;
• low vapor permeability.

With standard car use, the performance of the paintwork gradually decreases due to natural wear and tear. But sometimes car body corrosion occurs for other reasons:

• there were defects when applying the hardening paint;
• pores have appeared in the paintwork film;
• the paint is applied with a thin film (fenders and other car elements that have curves are more often susceptible to this problem).

Prolonged exposure to moisture on a vehicle's coating causes negative consequences - paint deterioration occurs. Many drivers do not know why, in some cases, it is better to store a car on the street than to hide it in a garage. If there is a high level of humidity in the car storage garage, it is recommended to place it outside . Ventilation will slow down the wear of the paintwork.

Sand-salt mixture on roads

Corrosion of a car during operation is accelerated due to exposure to the sand-salt mixture on the roads. In winter, utility services often use sand and salt poured onto the road to combat ice. As temperatures warm, ice and snow melt to form water. It interacts with sand and salt and forms a sand-salt mixture.

During operation, the mixture accumulates in damaged areas of the body, causing the destruction of the paintwork. The body surface remains unprotected and corrosion occurs. The more sand-salt mixture gets into damaged areas, the more rust spreads. Long-term exposure causes enormous damage to the car. To protect the car from corrosion on the body, special substances are used.

Types of corrosion control

You can remove rust on the coating with your own hands. This task is carried out using:

• a sandblasting machine or sanding machine (sandpaper is used as a budget analogue);
• paper;
• masking tape;
• rags;
• rust converter (a special product sold in auto parts stores);
• primers and fiberglass putty;
• rubber gloves;
• fiberglass set;
• paints and varnish.

The list of necessary devices varies depending on how badly the coating is affected by rust. It is recommended that tools and materials have a designation that allows them to be used for car processing. There are three types of corrosion control methods:

• passive - primer and painting are used;
• active - mastics, sealants, and anti-corrosion substances are used to combat rust;
• electrochemical - installation of an electronic device that transfers the appearance of rust from the surface of the body to the electrode (removing rust using an electrochemical method requires serious costs).

The most common method due to its low cost is the first method. Elimination of corrosion is carried out step by step:

• the car is cleaned of dust and dirt;
• rust is removed from damaged areas;
• the cleaned areas are treated with a rust converter (the action is performed with gloves);
• the area is treated with a primer;
• After the primer has hardened, paint and varnish are applied to the metal surface.

It is recommended to use several methods at once to better protect the coating from corrosion.

Body protection from manufacturers

To prevent rust from occurring on a car, modern vehicle manufacturers use their own protection. Before going on sale, the car undergoes anti-corrosion treatment. Body protection from German and Japanese manufacturers is of the highest quality.

Source: https://InfoKuzov.ru/uhod/rzhavchina-na-mashine

How to remove saffron milk caps and rust from a car body, removing bugs with your own hands with video

A red scourge called rust plagues many car enthusiasts. The less protected the car body is from corrosion at the factory (galvanization), the more often the owners will have to make efforts to eliminate red spots.

Moreover, it is undesirable to delay liquidation, since over time, damage to the metal only increases. As a result, in six months you will have to spend much more time and money than today.

So, what will you need to remove rust and saffron milk caps with your own hands and how to remove them without harming the body.

Rust is the oxidation of metal that occurs under the influence of air, water and static electricity. Therefore, the main reason for its occurrence is damage to the paintwork of the car body.

Microcracks and physical damage allow air and moisture to reach the iron. The speed of the destructive impact will depend on the degree of protection of the body itself and the aggressiveness of the environment.

This is especially true in winter, when many chemicals appear on our roads.

The above factors directly affect the shape, color and depth of corrosion. People call them differently: “saffron milk caps,” “bugs,” or simply “rusty spots,” but their essence is the same (only the degree of neglect varies). A single spot of rust is easier to deal with than many small red spots.

The latter usually indicates poor quality metal or unsuccessful body repairs. The total processing area will be larger. Moreover, these points often spread in depth rather than in breadth. Blistering of the paint also signals the need to remove corrosion that has begun to develop under the paintwork.

Places where bugs and rust stains are most often found

Thresholds Arches Wings at the arches
Trunk

Rust progresses well in places where there is increased exposure to foreign objects: sand, dirt, stones. The hood suffers from small stones from the tires of other cars, the wheel arches from their own “emissions” (by the way, wide non-standard tires or rims contribute to greater damage). The thresholds of the car are also one of the first to rot due to the close proximity to the “aggressive environment”, plus unsuccessful exits from curbs aggravate the situation.

We have become acquainted with the causes and places, let's move on to methods of correct elimination. There are two methods that differ in the way they remove rust:

1. Mechanical - cleaning, priming, puttying, painting.
2. Chemical - rust converters or kits for galvanizing metal.

You cannot do without the first method if the rust is strongly ingrained into the metal. Then it is necessary to completely eliminate traces of corrosion until pure iron (ideally shiny) remains. To do this, you may need additional tools and resources, which we will discuss below in step-by-step instructions. The second option is suitable for hard-to-reach places.

These could be curves on the bottom of the car or the inside of the arches, which are difficult to process using mechanical means. Depending on the product, rust after chemical treatment can turn into foam (you need to rinse with water and dry the surface) or harden and become covered with a protective layer suitable for painting. Be sure to read the instructions and recommendations for the use of chemicals before purchasing.

Before starting work, try to assess the extent of damage to the body and assess whether you can etch the damage with chemicals alone. For a positive result, it is necessary that “live” iron remains after the initial cleaning.

If there are through holes or the final thickness of the metal after processing is too small, then more serious body repairs will be needed, that is, initially all these areas will need to be repaired using welding or putty with fiberglass.

If you follow the instructions and take your time, you can forget about rust on your car for 1-2 years (at least in the treated areas). The work is carried out in stages:

1. preparing everything necessary;
2. initial cleaning of the damaged part of the body;
3. degreasing and priming;
4. painting and varnishing.

To work you will need:

• grinding tool and sandpaper,
• rust converter,
• solvent,
• anti-corrosion primer,
• paint to match the body color and clear varnish (in cans),
• if necessary, two-component automotive putty (with hardener).

1. You can fight rust using a sandblaster, an angle grinder with a grinding wheel, a drill with a special attachment, or the trivial, but always accessible, method - with your hands and sandpaper.

   The work can be done manually or using special machines

   The main thing is to work carefully and slowly. There should be no deep scratches or rough transitions. Try to get a polished surface with smooth gradients.

   A grinder is often included in a car enthusiast’s arsenal.

   The damaged paintwork is removed layer by layer and subsequent damaged areas are processed.

   The longevity of the result depends on the thoroughness of the work.

2. After cleaning, treat the surface with a rust converter. It is needed to remove small rust residues (sometimes invisible) that can become a source of further corrosion. Usually half an hour is enough for the converter to operate, after which you need to wipe off the remaining product and degrease the metal with a solvent.
3. Please note that after painting, the smallest scratches or depressions will be visible. Therefore, in most cases you will need putty.

   Universal types of putty, oddly enough, are not suitable for all types of car bodies

   It is applied in several layers and each one is sanded until smooth. Your goal is to fill all the depressions and achieve a perfectly smooth surface when the work is completed.

   To work, you will need several types of sandpaper.

4. So, we inevitably come to the most enjoyable part - beauty restoration. To avoid unnecessary painting of adjacent parts of the body, they should be covered within a meter radius from the painting site.

   Do not skimp on protective equipment, especially if you are doing the job for the first time.

   Film, newspapers and masking tape are perfect for this. If you work outside, be sure to consider the direction of the wind.

   Make sure that dust and other abrasive particles do not fall on the treated surface.

5. The first layer of anti-corrosion primer is applied. It comes in different colors; when choosing, consider the color of the paint (do not use black or gray primer for white paint). To ensure that there are no sagging and the primer is applied evenly, spray it from a distance of 20–30 cm with smooth movements in a horizontal plane. 2-3 layers are enough. Let each layer dry thoroughly (at least 15–20 minutes in warmer months).
6. Our next step is painting. The technology is the same - 2-3 layers, drying each one. Give the base paint more time to dry. For better protection and a beautiful look, apply clear varnish in the same way.

   Painting work requires minimal skills!

7. The final result should please the eye and fill you with pride for the work done. It largely depends on the successful selection of paint color, so pay special attention to this point at the initial stage. To eliminate the visible transition in the area of ​​​​painting, you can use a special car polish. It is applied using a chamois cloth or a very soft sanding pad.

The result is not always the same as in the photo; it is often necessary to modify and eliminate flaws

Do-it-yourself chemical way to get rid of corrosion

The chemical method differs only in the initial stage - cleaning the part from rust. According to reviews from manufacturers, these substances are able to eradicate rust, stop its further spread and do not damage the iron itself (unlike “sandpaper”).

Application is very simple - apply the product to the rusty surface for 30-40 minutes, then wipe with a cloth or rinse with water.

But to get a nice, smooth surface you will still have to clean, putty and polish (except for the initial stages of corrosion).

Some funds are available to motorists even with the most modest budget

There are kits on sale that allow you to independently apply a protective layer of zinc to the car body. The kit already contains a solution for removing rust and applying a protective layer, as well as an electrode with a zinc tip. This process is electrochemical, so a connection to a battery is required.

The kit includes liquids and all necessary working tools

How to remove “saffron milk caps” and “bugs”

Many people want to believe that if rust has just appeared and the lesions are small, then they can be eliminated with some miracle remedy. Unfortunately, this is impossible in principle. The rust that appears on the surface of the paintwork is like the tip of an iceberg; the main damage is deep inside.

There are products on sale that will help remove the red color from the body. For example, there is Anti-Rust paste - it removes red spots quite quickly and well. This is the same rust converter that we discussed above. It eliminates the visible signs, but not the source itself. Such manipulations usually last for 2–6 weeks (depending on weather conditions), and they are most often used immediately before selling the car.

Small “bugs” sometimes cause big problems for the car seller!

If you want to get rid of the problem in the long term, then you cannot do without physical intervention. It is necessary to stop the access of air and moisture directly to the metal. Theoretically, you can prolong the effect of the paste if, after treatment, you cover the damaged area of ​​the body with clear varnish. But it will work if the converter has managed to remove all the rust. In most cases, this does not happen, since the depth of penetration of the product is small.

Unfortunately, it will not be possible to hide damage for a long time only with the help of paste.

Vehicle prevention and protection

Tools available to every motorist, but which most of them ignore, will help you avoid the work done:

• regular car washing, even in winter (additional waxing increases protection against aggressive environments);
• regular inspection of a clean car (in the initial stages it is much easier to fix the problem);
• wheel arch liners and mudguards on all wheels (will keep the paintwork presentable for much longer);
• anti-gravel film on the hood and part of the roof above the windshield (an alternative is a “fly swatter”);
• anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom of the car.

The work of eliminating “bugs” and “saffron milk caps” is within the power of everyone. But for a good result it will take scrupulousness and time (especially the first time). Think about whether you are able to prevent such sources of trouble. Advanced corrosion leads to expensive body repairs without guarantees. Take care of your car, and it will reciprocate.

Source: https://carnovato.ru/operaciya-stop-rzhavchina-izbavlenie-kuzova-avto-ot-ryzhikov-i-sledov-rzhavchiny-svoimi-silami/