Making a thin tip for a soldering iron with your own hands
Despite the fact that many people consider a household soldering iron to be an ordinary tool, it consists of several important parts, each of which performs a specific function. High-quality and coordinated work is simply impossible without the use of specialized soldering iron tips. These parts almost always have a removable shape, which greatly simplifies the work process. After all, from time to time there is a need to replace them.
Varieties of stings
All modern sets of tips for soldering irons differ significantly from each other, it all depends on the material, protective coating, shape and thickness. In addition, each replacement tool can dissipate different amounts of power, which is very important when choosing the most suitable product. Experts say that the most important thing to consider is what material the tip is made of and what shape it has.
As for the material, depending on the tasks, you can use tips with copper, ceramic, copper-steel, brass, chrome or nickel coating.
The shape of the product can also differ significantly: curved, pointed, cone-shaped and even with a cut. As practice shows, it is easiest to use a curved device to remove excess solder, as well as to dismantle parts from the board.
It is the material and shape of the tips that play an important role in the operation of the soldering iron, since the following characteristics depend on them:
- The resulting ability to inject energy at the soldering site. It is this characteristic that determines the possibility of high-quality and uniform heating of the working area.
- The level of thermal conductivity, which determines the final amount of heat supplied from the soldering tool to the working area.
- The degree of resistance of the tip used to oxidation.
A high-quality soldering iron with a replaceable tip must be equipped with a tip made of copper and special alloys. This criterion is due to the fact that the final thermal conductivity of the removable product will be significantly higher than that of steel parts.
But, despite all the advantages, even copper tips have their drawbacks. The main part of them is associated with the low level of wear resistance of the material and the fact that they are susceptible to the negative effects of corrosion. To eliminate these nuances, manufacturers apply a nickel or steel coating to the tip, and the thermal conductivity of the tip changes.
Due to the fact that gas soldering irons are widely in demand both in the private and industrial spheres, manufacturers produce a wide range of tips with different performance characteristics. Thanks to this, you can purchase the most suitable soldering iron rod at an affordable price.
Main advantages
Universal soldering iron tips are distinguished by their versatility and high quality, which is very important for repair work. The great demand for working tips is due to their many advantages:
- The ability to accumulate generated thermal energy. It is worth considering that this factor largely depends on the size of the part. Experts say that a soldering iron with a thin tip gives off all the heat at the first contact with the metal.
- High degree of thermal conductivity. This is one of the most important characteristics. This criterion determines how much heat from heating will be transferred to the main work area.
- Oxidation resistance. The presence of even the thinnest film of oxides several times reduces the ability of the tip to transfer heat to the soldering site.
- Good wear resistance. Of course, no one will use a soldering iron to perform tasks that are unusual for it, but over time, any tip wears out. This is mainly due to negative mechanical effects.
Due to numerous advantages, tips made of nickel alloys can be found in the collection of every master. This is due to the fact that such parts have a high level of strength and resist corrosion well. But the thermal conductivity in this case is at the lowest level.
Self-tinning of the tip
To carry out this procedure at home, you need to wipe the sting with a regular sponge, which should first be moistened in water. After this, the tip must be thoroughly heated and cleaned with sandpaper (in some cases a needle file can be used).
Source: https://pochini.guru/sovety-mastera/izgotovlenie-zhala-dlya-payalnika
Types of tips for soldering irons
In this article we will look at what types of soldering iron tips there are.
Types of tips for soldering irons
There are mainly two types of soldering iron tips: these are copper tips, which are still soldered by electronics veterans
and removable tips with nickel coating, which are soldered by young people and all those who understand the advantage of such tips
Nickel-plated tips require your own soldering iron, with temperature control and the ability to disassemble the soldering iron. Basically, such soldering irons are installed on a soldering station, for example, Lukey 702.
Types of nickel tips
I have the following nickel-plated tips in my kit:
- Sting-needle. Honestly, it's a complete mess. As soon as you touch the solder, the tip cools down sharply and then stops heating the solder. Therefore, such a tip is only suitable for very small jewelry work.
- Stinger-scapula . Used for desoldering and soldering large-sized radio elements. The physical meaning is that it quickly warms up the entire part without cooling down, because it has a large volume compared to other tips.
- Sting-drop. It is very convenient for transferring a drop of solder on its tip, which in turn improves the quality of soldering and sealed radio components.
- Curved tip. Very convenient for dismantling radio components paired with copper braiding to remove excess solder from the board. Convenient for soldering too.
- An ordinary sting. A very versatile tip.
It combines all the stings, therefore it is considered the most popular
How to change the tip?
The white stick sticking out of the soldering iron handle is the heating element. It is he who warms the soldering iron tip.
After disassembling the soldering iron, remove the tip and install another one. We assemble in reverse order.
How to set the soldering iron temperature correctly
In order to correctly set the temperature of the soldering iron, take the solder and touch it with the tip of the soldering iron. We increase the temperature at the soldering station and see when the solder starts to melt and sticks to the tip of the soldering iron. We seize this moment and stop increasing the temperature of the soldering station.
Don't confuse solder melting with solder softening. When the solder becomes like porridge, it means that the temperature of the soldering iron is still too low. We need to add a little more. The temperature indication is different on different soldering stations. For example, I set the temperature at my station to about 360-370 degrees.
Some electronics engineers set the temperature to 330-340, and some even 300. This suggests that the soldering iron temperature sensor is different for each soldering station. Most of all, cheap Chinese soldering stations, such as Lukey, lie about temperature.
But, moving a little away from the topic, I will say that these soldering stations have proven themselves very well, especially Lukey 702.
Conclusion
In conclusion, I will say a few more words about nickel-plated soldering iron tips. They, like all equipment, require maintenance. Under no circumstances should you clean such tips with sandpaper or a file! This will cause you to tear off the working layer, the tip will burn out and the solder will not stick to it.
I didn't know about this before and lost one of the stings . Do not allow the tip to overheat when soldering. Look at its color. The working area of the tip should shine with a tin-lead color. If you see a purple-blue color, lower the temperature on the soldering station.
It is advisable to leave a fat drop of solder on such a tip after soldering and then turn off the soldering iron.
Never bring a hot tip near the power cord, otherwise you may receive an electric shock. Make sure that the power cord is always in good condition and never leave a hot tool unattended lying on a table other than a stand. Solder wisely!
Where to buy a soldering iron tip
The cheapest place to buy these tips is on Aliexpress using this link:
And there are also copper ones. They are better from a soldering point of view, since the thermal conductivity of copper is very high. The only negative is that such stings burn and eventually lose their original shape.
You can look at the copper tips at this link.
This article describes very informatively about soldering iron tips.
Source: https://www.RusElectronic.com/zhalo-dlja-pajalnika/
The soldering iron tip is the most important component of a power tool.
Such a simple device as a soldering iron has its own design and component parts. The smallest in size, but not in importance, is the sting. The soldering iron’s ability to perform its tasks depends on its quality.
Working tip properties:
- Thermal conductivity. The most important characteristic. It is this that determines how much heat from the heater will be transferred to the work area;
- The ability to accumulate thermal energy. The characteristic is mainly related to the size of the sting. A tip that is too thin will instantly give off heat when it comes into contact with a massive part;
- Strength, or more precisely, wear resistance. No one is going to hammer nails with a soldering iron. However, over time, the tip wears out - under the influence of aggressive fluxes or mechanically;
- Protection from oxidation. Even the thinnest film of oxides sharply reduces the ability of the tip to transfer thermal energy to the soldering site.
The ideal material for the manufacture of a soldering tip (from the point of view of thermal conductivity) is copper or its alloys. The reverse side of the moon is extremely low wear resistance and susceptibility to corrosion.
The direct opposite is steel and nickel alloys. High strength, no corrosion - but disgusting thermal conductivity.
Therefore, manufacturers produce soldering iron tips from various materials, adapting to market demands. They also do not stop experimenting with composite materials, giving tools ever higher consumer properties.
Copper
You can make a good sting from a copper rod
The vast majority of soldering irons are equipped with just such tips. The copper tip is quite versatile and has outstanding thermal conductivity. And most importantly - excellent heat capacity.
This means that when working with massive copper contacts or soldering thick cables, the accumulated heat will not dissipate throughout the workpiece, sharply reducing the temperature. Therefore, for soldering volumetric parts, soldering irons with a copper tip, which weighs several hundred grams, are chosen.
It will take a lot of energy to heat it up, but the mass of the tip will ensure a stable temperature during operation.
There are more elegant copper tips. The classic version of a 40-60 W soldering iron, familiar to many.
With the help of such a tip, you can solder almost everything, with the exception of modern electronic components - planar microcircuits, SMD modules, etc. You can, of course, give a refined shape to the tip - but then the tip will wear out instantly.
The problem with copper is its softness and low heat resistance. At high temperatures the surface quickly oxidizes. Cleaning the tip in the traditional way does not lead to anything. You have to clean it mechanically, using a file or sandpaper. At the same time, the tip rapidly decreases in size.
To maintain the working condition of the surface, it is covered with a thin layer of solder.
How to properly tin a sting
It is necessary to wipe it with a damp sponge, heat it and clean it with sandpaper or a file. Then immerse it in a jar of rosin and place a piece of solder on top. The tin will spread on its own over the clean surface of the tip.
Another way is to rub the heated tip on wood that has flux and solder on it. It is better to choose a tree of coniferous species.
If this is not done, soldering becomes impossible regardless of the heating temperature.
The second serious problem is corrosion from aggressive fluxes at high temperatures. You should not think that acidic compounds are to blame. Rosin also has a detrimental effect on the surface of copper. Over time, cavities and grooves form on the surface, which must be sanded, again losing in size.
However, with proper care and regular replacement, the red metal tip shows very good qualities. Therefore, there is no question of removing it from production.
Fireproof
In fact, this is an ordinary copper tip, only with a coating. To protect against corrosion and burning, the surface is nickel-plated or silver-plated. The problem is that nickel has poor adhesion, so molten solder will not stick to it.
That is, the classic option - scooping up a drop of tin and applying it to the contact - does not work here. You can only warm up the soldering area. Solder supply from the side is required. In reality, this means that both hands will be busy. Soldering iron in one hand, tin wire in the other.
Silver-based coatings do not have such problems. It is perfectly wetted by solder and has good thermal conductivity. But the high cost does not allow mass production of such tips. In addition, silver quickly burns out from high temperatures.
Manufacturers offer a comprehensive solution to the problem. The tip is coated with nickel, except for the working tip. More expensive coatings are applied to it, with good adhesion. At the same time, the cost remains reasonable, and the properties of the tip are improved.
Whole sets of soldering iron tips are offered, with working tips of various shapes.
On the one hand, you have to buy a whole package, on the other, wear and tear occurs much less. Another option is a multilayer tip, which uses the properties of each material for its intended purpose.
This design is not cheap, but it lasts a long time and performs its task efficiently. There are no questions about how to tin the tip of a soldering iron; this process is carried out in a factory environment and does not need to be repeated.
You will learn how to tin a soldering iron by watching this video.
Ceramic
The body is made of durable ceramics, the tip can be metal. Ceramics have thermal conductivity and heat capacity not much worse than copper. At the same time, it is stronger and not subject to corrosion. By making composite tips, manufacturers combine the best qualities of various materials into one product.
Soldering irons with a ceramic tip are more convenient and allow you not to be distracted by regular cleaning. But representatives of the so-called “old school” prefer copper tips. Although, for working with modern radio components of the SMD form factor, copper fits like a bull in a china shop. But a soldering iron with a thin ceramic tip is just right.
Composite
You can use the properties of each material exactly where they appear most clearly. Composite tips combine two, three, or four materials. For example, steel is in the form of a core for strength. Copper - as a heat-conducting material from the heating element to the working tip. Nickel – anti-corrosion coating. The tip is made of silver alloy for better adhesion to solder.
Popular: How to solder without a soldering iron, or how to replace it
Given the constantly changing soldering conditions, it is wise to have a soldering iron with replaceable tips at home. The main thing is to select the diameter and depth of the tip into the heating element.
Temperature stabilizer
Of course, quality material alone is not enough. It is necessary that the optimum temperature is maintained at the tip of the sting. To do this, a sensor can be built into his body. This option is ideal for maintaining a constant temperature in the soldering area.
In fact, such a circuit is only needed when working with elements that are sensitive to overheating. Then the temperature on the tip is set not a few degrees higher than the melting point of the solder, and you can solder without fear of damaging the parts. Most designs use a simpler scheme - with pre-set temperature without objective control.
The tip temperature regulator can be built into the housing (if the soldering iron's power supply circuit is inductive), or placed in a separate unit. This does not affect the quality of work. Moreover, the vast majority of work is performed by selecting a soldering iron according to power, that is, “by eye.”
There is a category of radio amateurs who prefer to use tools of their own design, including a soldering iron tip. As a rule, after trying various options, from expensive Japanese or German ones, and your favorite domestic copper ones, to nickel-plated nails from the Middle Kingdom, you will come to the only suitable product. Or try making a sting with your own hands.
In this case, we suggest you look at the following material:
What to make a high-quality soldering iron tip from
For production you will need:
- Access to a lathe or a familiar lathe;
- Copper rod 6-8 mm in diameter;
- A few grams of silver.
Let's make the base. We form the copper rod into a holder for the tip.
At the end we drill a hole 10-15 mm deep for M4 threads. Accordingly, we cut the internal thread.
We order a silver rod with a diameter of 5 mm and a length of 10 cm from a jewelry workshop. This will not take much money, especially since the quality of the metal does not matter; you can take the cheapest silver, even technical silver from contacts. We cut a piece 2 cm long from it, cut an M4 thread, screw it into the base and give the tip the required shape.
After processing, we obtain an excellent composite (composite) tip. The copper supplies heat to the silver tip. Silver has excellent adhesion, so solder sticks to it like glue.
The only drawback is that silver burns out over time, or dissolves in the solder.
This does not happen so quickly, but with intensive work, the tip will have to be changed every six months. When cold it unscrews easily, and when hot it sits very tightly in the threaded connection.
Source: https://obinstrumente.ru/elektroinstrument/payalnik/zhalo-dlya-payalnika.html
Why a soldering iron does not solder well: how to tin a soldering iron and prepare it for work
Category: Soldering, Articles 10/15/2018 · : 0 · Reading time: 3 min · Views:
Why doesn't solder stick to the soldering iron?
The main and main reason for this problem is very strong carbon deposits on the soldering iron tip. The fact is that if there is no solder or flux residue on the soldering iron for a long time when it is turned on, then a dense layer of soot forms on the surface of the tip due to oxidation, which can no longer be cleaned off with a desoldering sponge. This is why solder rolls off the soldering iron tip.
Causes of soot
Some beginners or those who are used to working with copper tips make a fatal mistake. They clean the soldering iron tip with sandpaper, files or blades from a stationery knife. This is only true for uncoated copper tips.
This method is unacceptable in principle for “eternal” stings.
There is a high risk of damaging the outer layer of the tip (a thin metal alloy), which can lead to cracks and further destruction. In addition, despite its appearance, the soot layer itself does not exceed some microns.
So how to clean a soldering iron from such deposits? There are several ways.
Easy sponge cleaning
The easiest way is to clean the tip with a metal sponge. Small metal shavings clean the tip from carbon deposits without damaging the coating. Such sponges are sold in any smartphone spare parts store, as well as in radio stores and online stores (AliExpress, etc.). A kitchen one can also work, but you need something dense and softer. In addition, it will be worse to clean.
An even more affordable recovery option
By soldering you can remove a layer of carbon deposits. We make a small bath of solder. You will need a solder rod and flux. Preferably activated (for example, LTI - 120). You can even use regular alcohol rosin. This is in the case of “light” soot, of small size.
Now we divide the solder bar into small pieces and pour a little rosin or flux (even if you have solder containing rosin, this is not enough for this case).
And we begin to bathe the tip in solder. If the solder does not melt, then you need to increase the temperature.
We coat the tip in solder from side to side, without pulling it out, so that the tip is completely enveloped. In a couple of minutes, a small amount of carbon deposits will evaporate, and it will be possible to take a little more fresh solder onto the tip after “bathing”. We leave the soldering iron heated with a drop of water for 10 - 15 minutes.
When doing this work, thoroughly ventilate the room! If the carbon deposits are still difficult to clean off after several attempts, then now you need to use soldering acid. The procedure is the same.
Sting activator to help
Even if it didn’t work out with solder, there is still one more way - this is an activator for the tips. Like the metal sponge, it is available in radio stores and can also be purchased on AliExpress. The principle of operation is simple - dip the tip of a working soldering iron into the activator for a couple of seconds and clean it with a sponge after that.
After removing the carbon deposits, you need to apply solder to the tip as soon as possible. even in a few seconds it can burn (if, of course, your soldering iron temperature is over 340 ℃)
Tips for caring for your soldering iron
- Do not leave the soldering iron turned on for a long time without solder or flux on the tip;
- Clean the tip only with a desoldering sponge or a metal sponge, which also removes carbon deposits;
- Do not clean the sting with sandpaper , a knife, or a scalpel. There is a risk of damage to the coating;
- If you solder with acid , be sure to clean the soldering iron after soldering; do not leave it to cool with acid!
Useful videos on the topic
Source: https://tyt-sxemi.ru/payalnik-ploho-payaet/
Brass soldering iron tip - Metalworker's Guide
Such a simple device as a soldering iron has its own design and component parts. The smallest in size, but not in importance, is the sting. The soldering iron’s ability to perform its tasks depends on its quality.
Working tip properties:
- Thermal conductivity. The most important characteristic. It is this that determines how much heat from the heater will be transferred to the work area;
- The ability to accumulate thermal energy. The characteristic is mainly related to the size of the sting. A tip that is too thin will instantly give off heat when it comes into contact with a massive part;
- Strength, or more precisely, wear resistance. No one is going to hammer nails with a soldering iron. However, over time, the tip wears out - under the influence of aggressive fluxes or mechanically;
- Protection from oxidation. Even the thinnest film of oxides sharply reduces the ability of the tip to transfer thermal energy to the soldering site.
The ideal material for the manufacture of a soldering tip (from the point of view of thermal conductivity) is copper or its alloys. The reverse side of the moon is extremely low wear resistance and susceptibility to corrosion.
The direct opposite is steel and nickel alloys. High strength, no corrosion - but disgusting thermal conductivity.
Therefore, manufacturers produce soldering iron tips from various materials, adapting to market demands. They also do not stop experimenting with composite materials, giving tools ever higher consumer properties.
DIY soldering iron tip
You can make many elements in a soldering iron yourself or replace them with improvised materials, since the design of this tool is simple.
The need to create a soldering iron tip with your own hands can arise both when you create a tool yourself, or when replacing an old one.
The part is any metal that heats up well over the entire area, holds the temperature for a long time and melts at high temperature. For ease of operation, it will need to be sharpened in a special way, but this is not difficult.
Basic materials and tools for making a sting
Before you start working, it’s worth finding out what to make a soldering iron tip from. Such items include:
- copper tube with a diameter of up to 8 mm;
- copper wire or brass rod with a diameter of up to 4 mm.
For direct manufacturing you will need the following tools:
- ruler;
- bench vise;
- hammer;
- soldering iron;
- hacksaw for metal;
- taps and dies for thread cutting;
- file;
- knife sharpener;
- pliers.
What metal is best to make a soldering iron tip from?
It is preferable to make a homemade soldering iron tip from copper. Simple factory models are made from this metal, since it is a refractory variety and is excellent for this purpose of use.
More modern devices may have a ceramic tip; other types of material are also used. If you can’t find copper, you can make a soldering iron tip with your own hands from stainless steel or brass.
The steel rod will take longer to warm up, but will be quite suitable for work.
Preparing metal for the tip
Having figured out what a soldering iron tip can be made from, you can move on to preparing the metal. All areas on the casing tube are leveled - a hammer is useful for this. If the part turns out to be too long, it can always be cut into several parts.
Trimming material for a soldering iron tip
You can reduce the tip of a soldering iron that uses copper wire in the same way. It would also be a good idea to level it. After all elements are aligned, the metal is cleaned of contaminants.
Source: https://svarkaipayka.ru/oborudovanie/payalniki/zhalo-dlya-payalnika-svoimi-rukami.html
Soldering iron tip made of brass
I would like to share my experience in making stubble for a soldering iron. At work, I often have to solder and very quickly the soldering iron rod gets torn by scale, decreases in diameter, and the very tip of the soldering iron tip burns out, cavities appear on it, which ultimately forces you to constantly sharpen and tin it.
Everyone knows that the copper rod of a soldering iron requires periodic molding of the tip, since it “burns out” quite quickly - shells form on the tip due to the dissolution of copper in the solder.
Therefore, I decided to experiment a little in this matter and check how a brass soldering rod would work. It turned out that the tip of the brass rod is perfectly tinned and “holds” solder no worse than copper. At the same time, the rod is not covered with scale at all.
The resistance of the tip to the formation of shells with a brass rod is also much higher.
The experiment with bronze rods also yielded good results. Soldering iron rods made of brass and bronze are more convenient for making various nozzles of complex shapes for group soldering of microcircuit pins, for removing multi-pin components from the board, and others.
Attention: Just keep in mind that not all brands of bronze are tinned.
You can make many elements in a soldering iron yourself or replace them with improvised materials, since the design of this tool is simple.
The need to create a soldering iron tip with your own hands can arise both when you create a tool yourself, or when replacing an old one.
The part is any metal that heats up well over the entire area, holds the temperature for a long time and melts at high temperature. For ease of operation, it will need to be sharpened in a special way, but this is not difficult.
Making a soldering iron tip with your own hands
When creating a soldering iron tip with your own hands from copper and other materials, select the diameter so that it coincides with the inner Ø of the casing. Thus, to make a thin tip for a soldering iron with your own hands, it is correct to take thinner copper wires, but otherwise the process will be similar.
You need to choose the length of the tip with a small margin, since over time it will need to be ground down and will decrease in size. But the length should not exceed 3 cm, otherwise the tool will be inconvenient to work with. In addition, a tip that is too long will lead to losses in thermal efficiency.
To secure the tip, you will still need to create a casing. It is made from the same materials that can be used to make a soldering iron tip. It is advisable to select identical materials. For the casing, pipe scraps about 2.5 cm long are suitable.
The edges of the cut should not have burrs or other irregularities. After sawing, the workpiece is processed with a file so that the edges become smooth. The inside can be cleaned using a screwdriver by turning it in the tube.
After all preparations, it is recommended to check whether the dimensions of the casing match the tip itself.
The next step in the process called “How to make a thin soldering iron tip” is to grind the working area to give it the desired shape. Most often it is made in the form of a cone. At this time, you have to grind off a significant amount of material using a file. If it is possible to use a bench sharpener, this will significantly speed up the process, since copper is a difficult metal to work by hand, and turning with a file will take a lot of time.
Visually, the shape of the tip should be similar to a sharpened pencil. The first time it may turn out far from ideal.”
When we make a tip for a soldering iron, we need to devote enough attention to grinding so that the part turns out to be as similar as possible to the factory models. The convenience of further work depends on this. When cutting the back of the tip, you need to create as smooth an end as possible so that it can stand on the table surface without support. This is necessary for the maximum level of contact with the heating element.
When making a copper tip for a soldering iron with your own hands, you need to ensure its reliable connection to the casing. Using taps and dies, threads are cut on the surface of each part.
Despite the fact that homemade tools and parts rarely require such a serious approach, it is the thread that will help avoid problems with the tip falling out due to thermal expansion and contraction during operation. This is a reliable way to secure the sting.
In the future, when the part wears out, only the tip itself will have to be changed, as well as threads cut on it, because the casing will remain the same.
Read also: How to test an engine with a megohmmeter
There is no difference in where the cutting begins - the tip or the casing. The workpiece must be clamped in a vice and the surface must be worked to the desired length. The next step in the process “How to make a soldering iron tip with your own hands” is stripping and joining. The threads should be cleaned with steel wool.
If there are any rough corners, you can file them down. After cleaning all parts, the casing and tip must be connected to each other. If resistance is felt at first, there is nothing to worry about, since the new thread can behave this way, especially if it is poorly stripped. To improve the thread progress, you can screw the part in and out several times.
At the last stages, the tip is polished when it is already screwed into the casing. To extend its service life, it is necessary to additionally coat the surface with nickel.
This is not necessary, but without such a coating the sting will not last long. This is a simple, not particularly expensive and quick process. Nickel plating protects the instrument from rust and corrosion.
Conclusion
Not all craftsmen want to take a thorough approach to the production of stings on their own. Homemade tools and parts for them are often perceived as a spare and simple option for quick work.
In this case, precise sizing and threading will not be required. But when you want to make a high-quality and durable tip yourself, it is better to follow the above instructions.
Although, taking into account the current cost of stings, making a part with your own hands is not always economically justified.
soldering process with a homemade tip
I decided to share one more, God knows what kind of homemade product: a homemade tip to replace the factory soldering iron from Solomon.
I have long noticed that soldering irons, especially new designs from almost all companies, come with a working tip of a cone sharpening with a tip or a small platform at the end, the platform, as always, at a right angle to the longitudinal axis. This tool is not the most convenient for work. Tips of other forms of sharpening come separately and are prohibitively expensive.
Various multilayer composites from copper alloys, steel to ceramics are used as materials; such a tip cannot always be sharpened. Yes, and it’s problematic to tin him. I'm used to soldering with a copper tip. And you can always correct the shape and grind down the shell, and vice versa, make it for a microwave effect, and the material is not in short supply, at least for those who worked under the Soviet Union.
There can be many replaceable working rods; don’t start the soldering station to change one DIP chip, but change the tip to a specially made one for this purpose in about 30 seconds. Rods were made with a hole inside for desoldering various switches with pins with a diameter of more than 1 mm.
, knife-type for desoldering multi-pin parts, where the pins are in a row, whole dies for multi-pin microcircuits with round bases or shaped arrangement of legs, everyone has their own imagination, the material is usually the same - copper.
Copper is one of the best heat conductors, it is perfectly wetted by tin alloys, and is easy to process. After brief attempts to solder with a standard tip and two new soldering tips, the solution arose on its own: replacing it with copper ones. Where can I get a new copper tip? Nowadays pure materials are becoming scarce, but I have accumulated a large stockpile of old copper rods.
Previously, a soldering iron had at least one spare or several tips of different shapes, which were not always needed. There is still a copper rod with a diameter of 1 to 5 mm left from the former work with welding transformers, there is also brass.
But the problem was that a copper rod or ready-made tip to fit the size of the new soldering iron was never found, but the brass rod was just right.
Read also: Cutter for boring cylinders
Brass did not work for long, in a few hours the tip of the tip dissolved in the solder, perhaps other types of brass or bronze will work, I have not tested (some of these alloys do not transfer heat well, some are very loose in structure, some are not wetted by solder).
The advantage of brass and bronze is the absence of scale from prolonged heating, and there is no danger of the rod jamming in the soldering iron body. An idea came up: the body of the tip was made of brass, but the working tip itself was made of copper. A rod cut to size was drilled along the longitudinal axis to a depth of 1.5 cm.
, the drill was taken according to the size of the existing copper rod, which was driven into the hole with a hammer. The brass was previously heated to expand. The result was a very tight connection, very similar to an ordinary pencil, where instead of a lead there was a copper rod.
Sharpening was not difficult; everything was done on an emery wheel, followed by light sanding with fine sandpaper. I shaped the working tip into a platform at an angle of 45 degrees; in the future there will be other shapes.
To replace the bead holding the homemade tip in the fastening of the soldering iron body, I inserted a pin made from the shank of a broken drill in the right place, and using sandpaper adjusted the length to the size of the inner diameter of the fastening nut.
The photographs were taken after using the new tip for several months; the tip has already been corrected several times with a needle file. So far there have been no problems, no warping or loosening detected.
It is advisable to use electrical copper for the tip, not annealed, it is less ductile, and it is advisable to forge it, or at least form the working part with a hammer on an anvil, followed by finishing with a needle file. This treatment will give the sting durability. Instead of a brass rod, you can use a standard tip if it is not used.
Published by admin December 02, 2012 20:24:40 · 0 Comments · 8056 Reads ·Source: https://morflot.su/zhalo-pajalnika-iz-latuni/
DIY micro-soldering iron for 5 volts - Metals, equipment, instructions
A tool such as a soldering iron is indispensable for radio amateurs, but people who are far from electronic equipment and components do not consider it an essential item.
Sometimes situations happen that can only be corrected with the help of this tool, and if it is not there, then what to do? If the problem is one-time in nature, then there is no need to go to the nearest store and purchase an expensive product.
You can put in a little effort and use some simple components to assemble a homemade soldering iron. There are many options for assembling this device - let's look at some of them.
Resistor device
This is a very simple but extremely reliable device. At home it can be used in different ways. Depending on the design and power, they can solder microelectronics up to laptops. The large device even allows you to seal a tank or any other large product. Let's look at how to make a soldering iron with your own hands.
The circuit is interesting in that a resistor of suitable power is used as a heater. It can be PE or PEV. The heater is powered from the household network. These damping resistances make it possible to solve problems of various scales.
We carry out calculations
Before moving on to assembly, there are some calculations you should do. So, to make devices with heating elements from resistors, it is enough to remember Ohm’s law from a school physics course and the power formula.
For example, you have a suitable part of the PEVZO type with a nominal value of 100 Ohms. You are going to use it to create a tool for use in household electrical networks. Using the form you can easily calculate the parameters. So, at a current of 2.2 A, a homemade soldering iron will consume 484 W of power. That's a lot.
Therefore, with the help of resistance-damping elements, it is necessary to reduce the current by four times. After this, the indicator will decrease to 0.55 A. The voltage on our resistor will be within 55 V, and in the home network - 220 V. The damping resistance value should be 300 Ohms. A capacitor for voltages up to 300 V is suitable as this element.
Its capacitance should be 10 µF.
Any suitable sized red copper rod is recommended as a rod. It should fit into the resistor hole with the smallest possible gap. When assembling, fill it with silicate glue.
It is possible that the glue will slightly impair the heat transfer, but it will dampen the system of the rod and the heating coil. This will protect the ceramic base of the resistor from possible cracks.
Another layer of glue will protect against play in this important unit. The wire strands will be brought out through the hole in the rod tube. This diagram will help you understand how to make a soldering iron that is reliable, efficient, inexpensive, and safe.
To avoid troubles, it is better to strengthen the insulation where the conductors will be connected to the heater. An asbestos thread is suitable for this, as well as a ceramic sleeve on the body. Additionally, you can use elastic rubber in the place where the electrical cord enters the handle.
This is how easy it is to make a soldering iron with your own hands. Its power may vary. To do this, you simply need to replace the capacitor in the circuit.
Mini soldering iron
This is another simple diagram. This tool can be used to work with various miniature devices or parts. With it, you can easily dismantle and solder small radio components and microcontrollers. Every craftsman has the materials to create this product.
You will learn how to make a soldering iron, and then you can easily assemble it from scrap materials. Power will be provided from a household transformer - any frame scan from an old TV will do. A piece of 1.5 mm copper wire is used as a tip.
The 30 mm piece is simply inserted into the heating element.
Making a base tube
This will not be just a tube, but the base of the heating element. It can be rolled from copper foil. Then it is covered with a thin layer of a special electrical insulating composition. This composition is also very simple and easy to make. It is enough to mix talc and silicate glue, lubricate the tube and dry it over gas.
Making a heater
In order for our DIY soldering iron to adequately perform its functions, we need to wind a heater for it. We will do this from a piece of nichrome wire.
To solve the problem, take 350 mm of material with a thickness of 0.2 mm and wind it onto the prepared tube. When you wind the wire, lay the turns very tightly together. Don't forget to leave straight ends.
After winding, lubricate the spiral with a mixture of talcum powder and glue and let it dry until completely baked.
We are completing the project
The third stage involves additional insulation and installation of the heater in a tin casing.
This work must be done very carefully. The ends of the nichrome wire that come out of our heater should also be treated with insulating material. In addition, use the mixture to treat any cavities that may have arisen due to lack of care.
The manufacturing process of this tool involves protecting the heater leads with heat-resistant insulating material and pulling the cord through a hole in the soldering iron handle. Screw the ends of the power wire to the heater terminals, then carefully insulate everything.
All that remains is to pack the heating element into a tin casing, and then place it evenly in place.
Now you can use this product. If you did everything correctly, you will get an excellent soldering iron, assembled with your own hands. With its help you can solder many interesting circuits.
Miniature wire-wound resistor design
This tool is suitable for small work. It is very convenient to solder various microcircuits and SMD parts. The design of the product is simple; assembly will not be difficult.
We will need an MLT type resistor from 8 to 12 ohms. The dissipation power should be up to 0.75 W. Also select a suitable case from an automatic pen, a copper wire with a cross-section of 1 mm, a piece of steel wire 0.75 mm thick, a piece of PCB, a wire with heat-resistant insulation.
Before assembling this soldering iron with your own hands, remove the paint from the resistor body.
At the very beginning, the hole diameter can be 1 mm. After processing it with a countersink, the tip should not come into contact with the cup. It should be located in the resistor housing. Make a special groove on the outside of the cup. It will hold a current conductor, which will also hold the heater.
Now we make the board. It will consist of three small parts.
On the wide side, connect a steel current conductor to it; in the middle part, the housing from the handle will be fixed. The second remaining resistor terminal is installed on the narrow part.
Before using this tool, wrap the tip in a thin layer of insulating material. So simply and easily you got a low-power 40 W mini soldering iron.
Naturally, serious soldering stations and hot air guns are offered today for professionals, but these devices are very expensive and are available only to technicians from service centers for repairing computers, laptops and mobile devices. This equipment is not readily available to home craftsmen due to its cost. We hope this article will tell you how to make a soldering iron with your own hands quickly and easily.
Source: https://spb-metalloobrabotka.com/mikropayalnik-svoimi-rukami-na-5-volt/
Important characteristics of the soldering tip
Even such a simple device as a household soldering iron has component parts, each of which performs its own strictly defined function.
That is why, when studying the structure of this product, they talk about a set of soldering iron tips, which are almost always (except in rare cases) made removable.
The need to change the tip is caused not only by mechanical wear, but also by the need to select the thickness and shape of the tip that is suitable for specific operating conditions.
Types of stings
Replaceable soldering iron tips, differing in material, shape, coating and thickness, are capable of dissipating different amounts of power, which is very important when choosing a product suitable for the job. The material and shape of the tip are of particular importance.
According to the type of material used in manufacturing, all soldering iron tips are divided into copper and copper with steel, nickel or chrome coating.
According to the shape of the tip - pointed, curved, cone-shaped or with a cut. The curved tip is convenient for dismantling parts from the board and removing excess solder.
Important characteristics such as:
- thermal conductivity, which determines the amount of heat transferred by the soldering tip to the working area;
- the ability to accumulate energy in the soldering area, which determines the possibility of high-quality heating of the working area;
- wear resistance and resistance to oxidation of the tip used.
Even a relatively thin oxide film formed on the surface of a removable element significantly reduces its ability to effectively transfer heat energy to the soldering zone.
The most suitable material for a soldering iron tip is, of course, pure copper, as well as well-known alloys made on its basis. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, a copper removable tip is much preferable to a steel one.
However, it is not without certain disadvantages, manifested in the low wear resistance of the material and its susceptibility to corrosion. Therefore, a steel or nickel coating is applied to it, and the thermal conductivity of the product changes.
Adapting to the needs of the market, many manufacturers have mastered the production of a wide range of tips, so purchasing a suitable soldering iron rod is not difficult.
In addition to the technical characteristics and properties of soldering tips discussed above, great importance is also attached to such a parameter as their size.
Tip thickness
This parameter is decisive in cases where an electric soldering iron is used to work with massive products (with large amounts of thermal energy released into the soldering zone).
In contrast, soldering irons with thin tips and different tip shapes are typically used when working with small electronic parts and thin conductors. They are also in demand in the manufacture of jewelry, which involves filigree processing methods.
This parameter is universal and can apply to soldering iron tips made of any material. At the same time, its influence on thermal conductivity indicators for the specified design options is different.
In cases where a significant increase in thermal output is required, preference is usually given to tips made of pure copper.
Availability of protective coating
The main disadvantage of copper products (rapid destruction during the soldering process) can be leveled by applying a special protective coating to their surface. In this way, some hobbyists are trying to get a so-called “long-lasting tip” for a soldering iron.
One of the most effective methods of protection is the use of silver-based coatings, which provide excellent thermal conductivity.
Naturally, such tips also have a corresponding price, but they are very practical in use, since they are well “wetted” with solder. However, the high cost of coatings limits the possibilities of using such tips in everyday life; In addition, the silver coating fades quite quickly at elevated temperatures.
Manufacturers have developed a compromise option that allows you to combine all the best of the considered solutions in one product. They cover only the base of the soldering iron tip with a protective layer of nickel, without touching its working tip, which is protected by a more reliable and expensive material with good adhesion.
They are also made with soldering irons with a ceramic heater and a special non-burning tip, which requires special careful handling. In some cases, the coating may be multilayer, consisting of metal alloys.
Homemade tip for usb model
The choice of tip for working with a soldering iron powered from a USB connector is determined by the amount of power consumed from the source, which is limited by the applied voltage (no more than 5 Volts). In this case, you will need a very thin soldering iron tip, made by yourself at home.
If you have an old purchased product, you can use the spare tip included with the kit.
Almost any craftsman with a minimum of metalworking skills can make a tip for such a soldering iron on his own. To make it, you need to take a copper rod with a diameter of no more than 3 mm and cut a piece of the required length from it.
After this, you should sharpen one of its ends, which is called “to suit you”, that is, in such a way that it is convenient to solder the elements of the circuits with which you will work. The second end of the homemade tip is adjusted in thickness to fit the mounting hole in the soldering iron, or a thread of the appropriate size is made on it.
Protective treatment
The main disadvantage of soldering irons with a copper tip is the softness and low heat resistance of the starting material itself - copper.
At operating temperatures, the surface intensively oxidizes and begins to deteriorate layer by layer. Periodic cleaning of the tip using conventional methods (sandpaper or file) only delays the time of destruction and does not ensure the required safety of the material.
The only way to extend the service life of this part of the soldering iron is mechanical treatment of the surface, which consists of protective tinning (the term “tinning” means covering the surface with a thin layer of solder).
In order to properly tin the tip installed in the soldering iron, you must perform the following operations:
- First, it is wiped with a damp cloth or sponge, after which the soldering device is plugged in.
- After the tip has warmed up to operating temperature, the tip and most of the base should be cleaned with a small file.
- Then you will need to immerse the end of the tip in a jar of rosin and place a small piece of soft solder on top.
Upon completion of this operation, the tin will spread evenly over the working surface of the tip.
There is another method for tinning and cleaning the surface from carbon deposits, according to which a heated tip is rubbed with force several times over a wooden surface with flux and solder residues.
Without first tinning the newly purchased tip, it makes no sense to start soldering, since the solder simply will not “wet” its surface.
Another serious problem that often arises when working with a soldering iron and leads to destruction of the tip is surface corrosion due to the aggressive effects of fluxes.
Combined with high temperatures, this results in the formation of deep pits and grooves that will require additional sanding to remove. As a result of grinding, the working dimensions of the tip are noticeably reduced, so over time it has to be replaced with a new tip.
Despite all these difficulties, with proper handling of the soldering iron and timely care of its working part, you can ensure normal operating conditions for this device.
And having a whole set of additional tips on hand will greatly facilitate all soldering operations.
Source: https://svaring.com/soldering/instrumenty/zhalo-dlja-pajalnika
Types and features of choosing a soldering iron tip
Even such a simple tool as a soldering iron has design features that consist of individual elements. The sting has the smallest size. The performance of the device depends on the quality level of this part. If you are not interested in this, then you can simply buy a soldering kit, use the instructions and not think about which soldering iron tip is best. But if you are curious and think that you can figure this out on your own, then read on.
Tip properties
The working tip has the following properties:
- Thermal conductivity. A very important parameter that determines how much heat will be transferred to the work area from the heating element;
- Ability to accumulate heat. This characteristic depends on the size of the tip. A very thin tip, when in contact with a large element, can instantly release heat;
- Wear resistance. Of course, no one will hammer nails with a soldering iron, but over time the tip is subject to wear due to mechanical stress and the influence of aggressive fluxes;
- Protection against oxidative processes. Even a thin oxidizing film significantly reduces the quality of the tip.
From the point of view of heat conductivity, copper alloys are considered the most optimal metal for the tip. But copper is characterized by low resistance to corrosion and wear. Nickel or steel based alloys are the complete opposite. High level of strength, rust protection - but terrible thermal conductivity.
Therefore, modern manufacturers are trying to create tips from a variety of materials in order to adapt to market demands. They also constantly experiment with composite materials, increasing the performance properties of the tool.
Copper products
Most soldering irons are equipped with these tips. The copper product is very versatile and has excellent thermal conductivity. And most importantly - excellent heat capacity.
That is, when processing large parts or soldering thick wires, the collected thermal energy will not sharply change the temperature and dissipate. Therefore, when processing massive elements, specialists prefer to use soldering irons with a large copper alloy tip. To heat such a product, a large amount of energy is required, but its mass ensures stable temperature indicators during operation.
You can solder almost any part with this tip. The only exceptions here are planar microcircuits, SMD modules, etc. Of course, the tip can also be given a thinner shape, but in this case it will wear out quickly.
The main problem with copper alloys is their low level of heat resistance and excessive softness. Also, when exposed to high temperatures, a copper product begins to oxidize. Cleaning the tip using the classical method does not give a positive result. Craftsmen have to clean it using sandpaper or a file, after which the size of the tip is significantly reduced.
For the purpose of keeping the surface of the tip in good condition, it is coated with solder.
Tinning process
To begin with, the product needs to be wiped with a sponge soaked in water, slightly warmed and cleaned with a needle file (fine file) or emery abrasive. After this, you need to place it in rosin, and put a piece of solder on top. The tin alloy itself will begin to coat the surface of the tip.
Another option is to rub the hot tip against the surface of the wood that has solder or flux on it. It is better to choose coniferous wood.
Another problem with copper is its low resistance to corrosion at high temperatures and exposure to fluxes. There is no need to assume that acidic compounds are the cause of all problems. Rosin also has an unfavorable effect on copper. Over time, grooves and microscopic niches appear on the surface of the metal, which must be polished.
One way or another, with regular replacement and proper care, the copper tip is very convenient to use. That’s why soldering irons with such tips are still produced today.
Nickel and silver
In fact, this is the most ordinary copper tip, but with a special coating. To provide protection against burning and corrosion, the surface of the product is silvered or nickel-plated. The only problem is that a metal such as nickel is characterized by insufficient good adhesion, therefore solder melted to a liquid state does not stick to it.
You will only be able to heat the soldering area itself, rather than scooping up a small amount of tin with a soldering iron. In practice, you will have both hands busy - one holding the tool and the other holding the tin wire.
Silver plating does not have these types of problems. At the same time, the price of the device is within reasonable limits, and the quality of the tip improves.
Another solution is a multi-layer tip. In such products, the beneficial properties of materials are used separately. These designs are expensive, but they last a very long time and perform their assigned tasks extremely well.
It is also worth noting that tips with a protective coating must not be cleaned with abrasives, otherwise the protective layer will be damaged and the product itself will quickly break.
Ceramic coating
The body structure is made of strong ceramics, and the tip itself is made of a metal alloy. A material such as ceramics has good heat capacity and thermal conductivity. But it is much stronger than copper alloys and is not afraid of corrosion. By creating tips from composite materials, manufacturers try to combine all the best properties of different materials in one device.
Soldering irons equipped with a ceramic tip are very convenient. They do not need to be cleaned regularly. However, old-time craftsmen prefer copper products.
Compound varieties
This type of tip is composed of several materials at once. For example, the core is made of steel, the heat-conducting element is made of copper, and nickel, like a brass alloy, provides protection against corrosion.
Considering that working conditions can constantly change, for home use it is better to acquire a soldering iron with replaceable tips. The most important thing is to choose the planting depth and diameter.
Temperature stabilizer
Of course, good material alone is not enough for full-fledged work. It is also necessary that there is always a certain temperature at the end of the tip. It is for this purpose that many manufacturers build a special sensor into the body of the sting.
In fact, such temperature control is needed only for fine processing of parts that are very sensitive to strong heat. In this case, the required temperature is set on the tip, and work can be done without fear of damaging the parts. Most designs use the simplest scheme - setting values in advance without subsequent control.
The temperature regulator can be built into the product, or it can be a separate unit that receives data from the sensor. This does not have any impact on the quality of work performed.
Making a thin tip
Some radio amateurs and home craftsmen make their own soldering tools. This happens after they have tried a bunch of options - from expensive German and Japanese ones to nickel-plated pins with gas activators and microwaves from the Middle Kingdom.
To make a good tip, you will need:
- A familiar, experienced turner or access to a machine.
- A copper rod with a diameter of 6-8 millimeters.
- A small amount of silver.
Let's create the foundation. We give the copper rod a shape that matches the hole in the tip holder.
From the end part we make a hole with a depth of ten to fifteen millimeters for the “M4” thread. Then we order from a jewelry store or workshop a silver rod ten millimeters long and five millimeters in diameter. The quality of the precious metal is completely unimportant. We cut a two-centimeter piece from the silver rod, create an “M4” thread, screw it into the base and adjust the shape of the tip.
After processing is complete, you will have a high-quality soldering iron with a thin tip. The copper alloy will supply thermal energy to the silver tip, which has excellent adhesion, so solder will stick to the tip perfectly. For reliability, you can make two tips at once, which can be changed if necessary.
There is only one drawback - over time, silver will dissolve in lead or burn, but this is a long process.
Source: https://ObInstrumentah.info/raznovidnosti-i-osobennosti-vybora-zhala-dlya-payalnika/
